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FINISHING OF GARMENTS
- Durable press finish
- Wash-n-wear finish
Presented by:
Avinash Mishra
Saurabh Suman
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Cellulose fibres and especiallycotton are still important fibres
dueto various advantages. However, oneoftheir main
disadvantages is wrinkling afterwashing which can be
overcome by a very special kind of finish. These arecalled as
Drip-dry, Wash & Wear, Easycare, Easyto iron, no-iron,
crease resistant, durable press, permanent press, shrink
proof, wrinkle free finishes
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WASH & WEAR FINISHES:
These are also referred to as drip-dry finishes.
They areofthe sametype as wrinkle resistant finishes.
Garments madeof fabrics with wash and wear finishes will
dry smooth and need littleor no ironing afterwashing.
The fabrics have a good soft hand and a neat appearance.
Wash and wear finishes have been primarily used on broad
cloth and oxford shirting and applied toothercotton fabrics.
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Each company has its own trade mark for its drip-dry finish.
Garments madeof fabrics treated with this finish may be
Commerciallylaundered.
The primary advantage is that such garments laundereasily at home
and need no ironing. This tends to increasetheirwear since home
laundering is less harsh as a mild soap is used.
In somecases, wash and wear finishes causeyellowing when a
chlorine bleach is used, labels should therefore be read carefully.
Do notwring the garments or spin drythem in washing machineor in
a dryer.
Rinsethem well, hang them on wooden or plastic hangers, buttoned
and straightened out and allowthem to drip dry.
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Durableor Permanent press finishes:
The developmentof permanent press, also referred to as PP &
durable press finishing techniques is s great achievement for
manufacturers toovercome difficulties in making wrinkle resistant
goods in to garments.
This finish gavethe fabrics a built- in memorywhich interfered
with shaping garments toconform to bodycontours, pressing
creases intotrousers and putting pleats in skirts.
Wash and wear finishes described earlier is a precured process,
i.e., beforethe goods arecut and sewn into garments.
The permanent press finishes are postcured.
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I. Fabric Resin Cross linkingDry at
open
width
Cure atopen width
Cut, sew
and pressPrecured
Ex: Shirting, Draparies etc. which requireC/P blends
not set in creases.
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II. Postcured or permanent press:
Fabric Resin cross linking Dry at
open
width
Cut, sew and pressCure products
at 300-400o F
Post
cured
Ex: Used for skirts, slacks and other products.
Common with cotton and polyester blends.
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Methods of application on garments:
1. Immersion process:
Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion
look
Immersethe garmentor product in the finishing
agent and extractexcess finish and drythe
product.
Hand and performance are modified with fabric
softeners and othercompounds sothatthe
finished productwill appealtoconsumers.
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Press desired features-likecreases, pleats etc.
in to garmentwith special press
Cure product in curing oven at 300o F for 5-15 min
Used for fashion apparelof 100% cotton
Also known as the garmentor product dip process
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2. Metered-Addition process:
Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion
look
Spraythe garments or productwith finishing agent
in a rotating chamber. Tumbletill uniformly
processed
Hand and performancecan be adjusted with fabricsofteners and othercompounds
Press desired features
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Cure at 300o F for 5-15 min.
Used for fashion apparel and furnishings, bed
linens and towels of 100% cotton
3. Vapour phase process:
Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion
look
Press desired features into garmentwith a hot
press
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Hand and performancecan be adjusted withsofteners and othercompounds
Apply finish in a vapour form tothe product in
a closed chamber and curewhile in chamber
Used forcotton and other natural fibres
Uses less finishing chemicals sotheeffecton
hand, abrasion resistance and staining is less
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Keraton, Supercrease, Dan-press, Cone press,
Sharp shape, Kara set, Never-press, Ameri-set
are someofthetrade names for permanent
press or durable press finish fabrics.
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DURABLE PRESS WOOL:
It is achieved by a combination of resin treatmentWhich controls wools excessive shrinkage.
Si-Ro-Set is a trade name.
1. Flat fabric is treated with 1-2% of durable pressresin and steamed for 3-5 minutes
2. Item is made up, sprayed with more durable
press resin and pressed
Shrink resistance resin is mixed with a drycleaning
solvent and item is drycleaned
The resin is cured 3-7 days beforelaundering
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Durable-press Silk:
Since silk wrinkles easilywhen wet, poly
carboxylic acid is used to produce durable
press orwrinkle resistant silk.
This finish is durabletolaunderings butlooses
20 % loss of strength, increase in stiffness and
decrease in whiteness.
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Requirements:
1. No iron oreasyto iron
2. Durable press performance
3. Dimensional stability
4. Soft and pleasant handle
5. High abrasion stability
6. Tear strength
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Chemicals used:
Urea Formaldehyde
DMU-Dimethylol urea
Melamine formaldehyde
TMM Tri to hexamethylol melamine
DHEU Di hydroxyethylene urea
DMDHEU- Di methylolethylene urea
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Mechanisms ofeasy-care and durable press finishing:
The primarycauseofthe shrinkageofcellulosic fibres is thefactthatthese fibres can readily absorb moisture. This
absorbed moisture facilitates internal polymerchain
movements in the amorphous fibre areas bylubrication.
This disrupts the internal hydrogen bonding between thesepolymerchains. When a moistureladen cellulosic fibre is
stressed, the internal polymerchains ofthe amorphous areas
are freeto moveto relievethat stress.
Hydrogen bonds can reform between the polymerchains intheir shifted positions, in effectlocking in the new
configuration. With no restoring forces available, a newly
formed wrinkleorcreasewill remain until additional
processes (ironing forexample) apply adequate moisture and
mechanical forces toovercomethe internal forces.
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The new arrangementofthecellulose molecules in the
swollen form ofthe fibre is fixed by newly formed hydrogen
bonds between adjacentcellulose molecules, mostly in the
amorphous fibre area. Thereforethe uneven and wrinkledappearanceofthecellulose fabric remains after drying, in
contrastto fabrics madeof non swelling synthetic fibres.
Two differentchemical approaches have been used
commerciallyto produce non-swelling or durable presscellulose fabrics.
Theoriginal approach is the incorporation of a polymerised
finish in the pores ofthe fibres, sothatwater molecules
cannoteasily penetratethe fibre.
The newer approach is the reaction of multifunctional
crosslinking agents with the hydroxyl groups of adjacent
cellulose molecules that hinderthe swelling ofthecellulose
fibre.
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Mechanism ofcreating Durable Press
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Care:
Wash items frequently because resins have a strongAffinity foroil and grease
Pretreat stains, collars and cuffs.
Use spot removal agenton grease spots
Keep wash loads smallto minimizewrinkling
Avoid setting in wrinkles with heat
Keep washing temperaturecool
Remove items promptlywhen dry
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THANK YOU
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