The Thirties and wwiiFashion from the Stock Market Crash to World War II
1929: The Stock
Market Crash
20s: Era of Prosperity
1929: The Great Depression
Early 30s
Longer skirts
Defined, natural waist
Obvious curves
Early 30s
Undergarments
Defined curves
Madeleine Vionnet
Female Clothing Designer
Madeleine vionnetThe Bias Cut Dress
madeleine vionnetThe Bias Cut Dress
elsa schiaparelliSurrealist Motifs
elsa schiaparelliSurrealist Motifs
SportswearFor Women
Hats and HairstylesVaried throughout the decade
Styles of Footwear
Typical accessories
Sunglasses
HandbagsJewelry
Scarves
Movie StarsBecome an Influence in Fashion
Later 1930sFrom Longer, Bias Cut to Shorter, Fuller Skirt and Square Shoulders
English Drape SuitLate 1930s
The Zoot SuitAdopted By Lower Income and Ethnic Groups
New: Jockey shortsMens’ Undies
Prince of WalesHeavy Influence on Mens’ Fashion
From casual to formal
sportswearFor Men
coatsPolo Coats and Trench Coats
Hats and hair
typical footwearFor the Boys!
accessories
Bow Ties
Cuff LinksWrist Watches
Tie Clips
HandkerchiefsNeck Ties
ChildrenUsually dressed like little adults
Boys and Young MenBoys: Knickers Young Men: Full Pants
World War IIHas a Significant Impact on Fashion
Fabric is rationed
StyleAnd The Rise of The American Designer
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing
Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection
which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/1930-1946/1930-1946.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
Fashion Designershttp://womenshistory.about.com/library/bio/blbio_chanel_coco.htm http://www.coololdstuff.com/coco.html http://www.exclusive-life.de/eng/Articles/Craft/fabrics_leather/Madeleine-Vionnet/Vionnet_eng.htm http://www.schiaparelli.com/ http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/schiaparelli.html http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html (Look up designers such as Adrian,
Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli.)
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
For Further Study
Wartime Restrictionshttp://home.cfl.rr.com/featherweight/board.htm http://www.fabrics.net/joan702.asp http://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/life_08.html
Zoot Suitshttp://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Image Credits
Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy www.rumbugger.co.uk
Photo of Flapper, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/crowdweb/pages/flapper.htm
Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughters 1928, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/film/index.html
Man seated at piano, surrounded by group of glamorous girls, Washington, D.C., October 1923, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-42063
Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, plate 16
Woman in undergarments, ca. 1921, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection
Photo of c. Winter 1926/27 Numbered Jeanne Lanvin, Paris, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
Photo of Gabrielle Chanel, Courtesy www.museudelperfum.com
L'Art da la Mode, 1927
Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 7
Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 11
Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981
Colorful lounging pajamas c. 1929, Courtesy, Blending Hemingway Company
Woman in Cloche Hat, Courtesy www.southernprints.co.uk
Beige Leather Pumps, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Aqua Marbled Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Vintage Patterned Stockings Item# FD-2319, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
Flapper Stockings Item# FD-4401, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
c. 1920 Stockings Item# FD-3540, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
Deco Diamond Platinum Watch Item# FD-940, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
Art Deco Necklace, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com
Antique 1920's Marcasite Earrings, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Image Credits
Velvet and Steel Beaded Handbag, circa 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com
Art Deco Steel Beaded Handbag, France, 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com
Wall Street 1929, Courtesy, Bilan du Siècle - C'est arrivé en ce jour
High necks before and after dinner, Vogue, October 1, 1933, pg 51
The triumph of the eggshell in winter woolens, Vogue, August 1, 1931
Merry Widow Revival, Vogue, June 1, 1937
Illustrations of Sportswear, Vogue, November 15, 1937 pg 37
Doris Blumenfeld, c. early 1930s, Courtesy demode.tweedlebop.com
1940's Hairstyle, Courtesy www.hairrific.com
1930's Movie Star Dark Navy Felt Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
c. 1930's New York Creation Black Felt Cutwork Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
c. late 1930's/early 1940's Gray Felt Doll Top Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
c. 1930's Peck & Peck Wool Checked Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
Brown Satin Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Brown Suede And Leather Oxfords, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Brown Alligator Platforms, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Schiaparelli Festoon Necklace and Pendant Earrings, Courtesy, www.doylenewyork.com
1930's blue w/silver glitter plastic, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
1930's translucent amber/tort plastic frame, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
1940'S Brown Alligator Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Silk Scarf w/ Art Deco/Geometric Pattern, Courtesy, www.easystreetantiques.com
Betty Davis Film Poster, The Girl From 10th Avenue (1935), Courtesy, www.reelclassics.com
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Image Credits The Basics of Dark Dress, Vogue, May 1, 1939 pg 103
Man in Grey Suit, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
MAN IN ZOOT-SUIT a. 1943, Courtesy, www.museum.state.il.us
Vee Line Shirts and Shorts Advertisement 1938, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 111, Dover 1986
Edward, Prince of Wales, standing with a man wearing a uniform, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0784/n078441.jpg
The Prince of Wales visits TR's grave / [International Film Service Co.], Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recording Sound Division, at Library of Congress Motion Pictures
Sportcoat Advertisement 1931, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 35, Dover 1986
Man in Tuxedo, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
Man in Polo Overcoats, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
Man in Trench coat, "Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
Vintage Ties, Courtesy www.ballyhoovintage.com
Adjustable Rust & Tan Bow Tie, Courtesy, www.vintagevoola.com
1930's Period Wristwatch, Used by permission through , www.boomertime.com
1930's Vintage Cufflinks, Courtesy, www.isadoras.com
Men's Monogrammed Cotton Handkerchiefs, Courtesy, www.jr-designs.com
1930's Sedan Tie Clip, Courtesy, www.arteauto.com
Children attend Houdini expose of fraudulent mediums, 1925, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-112425 DLC
Photo of Young Men, from the Authors collection.
"Chippers." Women war workers of Marinship Corp., 1942. 86-WWT-85-16, National Archives and Records Administration
Diagram of New L-85 Order Clarifies the Fundamental Changes, Women's Wear Daily, Monday, June 7, 1942
c. 1940's ADRIAN Perfect Gray Flannel Suit, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
New Tweeds, Vogue, December 1942, page 66.
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