Saturday night menu for 4 you can 100% make ahead
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AUGUST 2014 O 3SEPTEMBER 2014 O 3
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What was the most adventurous dish your parents made when you were growing up? Chicken in pineapple and beef in Guinness were my Mum’s go-to recipes when we had people over. She didn’t need
much in the way of tools other than a knife to joint the chicken and a big casserole to cook them in (OK, and a tin opener for the pineapples – it was the seventies). The dishes I like making for friends don’t call for tons of kitchen kit either, but I have come to rely on a mandoline to make potatoes dauphinoise (always a crowd-pleaser) and digital scales for weighing out baking ingredients – neither of which featured in Mum’s kitchen. Before buying both I tapped deputy editor Lulu Grimes, our gadget guru, for her favourite brands. Find out about the kit you really need to make everything from curry pastes to paella in her definitive guide on page 23.
Christine Hayes, Editor
This month in the olive test kitchen…New favourite ingredientBeetroot and goat’s cheese is a standard combination these days, but adding smoked anchovies makes this a really sublime starter – an idea we picked
up from new restaurant Villiers (page 57). We can't get enough of Nardin Smoked Anchovies, £6.75 from brindisa.com
Fish finger wars We put four brands through their paces when making the doorstep sandwich on page 83. We found Waitrose Breaded Cod Fingers had the flakiest texture, crunchiest coating and didn’t go soggy.
(£2.89/400g)
Welcome
GET IN [email protected] @Omagazine
O magazine Omagazine pinterest.com/Omag
Salad styling tipWith the sweetcorn season in full swing, cookery writer Anna suggests how to make the roasted corn salad on p91 look as good as it tastes: ‘Carefully slice the kernels off roasted corn cobs so that some sections remain intact amongst the single kernels. It makes
the salad more visually appealing and gives a variety of texture.’ For a video demo, get the app (see page 67).
7 O JULY 2014
THE EDIT
14 TRENDS & RECIPES Boozy milkshake,
posh cheese on toast, kataifi pastry and
the new fizzy pop
16 PEOPLE & PLACES This month’s hottest
restaurants, the must-order dish at Hix
Oyster and Fish House and how to make
the best steak tartare
18 SHOPPING Italian food-buys from Edinburgh’s Valvona & Crolla
20 DRINKS The UK’s best beer gardens
and a bargain £3.89 red
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 7
NEED TO KNOW
11 RECIPE INDEX
23 LULU’S KITCHEN KIT
Essential tools to knock out everything
from a Thai curry to a red velvet cake
55 SUBSCRIBE TO O Five issues for £5
81 NEXT MONTH’S O
110 READER OFFERS Great deals on
European breaks
118 SMALL PRINT
SEPTEMBER 2014
ContentsCOOK weekend30 WHAT’S IN SEASON Marrow,
sweetcorn, tomatoes, leeks, butternut
squash and damsons
39 ONE CLASSIC RECIPE, TWO GREAT
TWISTS Make the best-ever herb-roast
chicken, butternut risotto and smoky chilli,
then get creative with the leftovers
48 RICK STEIN’S FISH Six exclusive recipes
including swordfish passanda, grilled miso
salmon and clams with XO sauce
57 MENU OF THE MONTH Make-ahead
menu for four from restaurant Villiers
62 GOURMET CHILLI HOT DOG
64 RIO DE JANEIRO Cook like a local
with recipes including roasted leg of
lamb with mint chimichurri and molten
brigadeiro cake
69 THE PALOMAR’S SHAKSHUKIT Make
this deconstructed kebab
70 PRALINE ICE CREAM Step-by-step
COOK everyday74 JANINE'S CHEAP EATS Green
goddess salad and pasta Norma
83 QUICK FIXES Five fast, after-work ideas
including mac ‘n’ cheese
87 SLIMMER DINNERS Healthy meals
including prawn and avocado summer rolls
89 PORK CHOPS Victoria’s wine match
91 3 WAYS WITH SWEETCORN
Coconut and lime roast chicken with coriander chutney1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
chicken 1, jointed into 8 on-the-bone pieces
coconut milk 200ml (freeze the rest for later)
garlic 3 cloves, bashed
lemongrass 2 stalks, bashed
lime leaves 4
CORIANDER CHUTNEY
shallot 1, finely diced
red chillies 2 small, sliced into rounds
coriander a handful of leaves, finely chopped
limes 2, juiced
groundnut oil 2 tbsp
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas
4. Arrange the chicken in a shallow roasting
tray in a single layer, preferably with space
in between. Pour over the coconut milk and
scatter over the aromatics. Season, cover
with foil and roast for 30 minutes.
• Turn the oven up to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6,
uncover the chicken, baste with the juices and
cook for another 15-20 minutes until golden.
• Mix the chutney ingredients and serve with
the chicken and some steamed rice.
PER SERVING 529 KCAL | PROTEIN 47.1G | CARBS 2.9G
FAT 36.5G | SAT FAT 14.8G | FIBRE 0.5G | SALT 0.4G
MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE
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8 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Eat EXPLORE enjoy96 PRO VS PUNTER Tom Parker-Bowles
and Catherine Wallen review Rivea
98 DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME We ask
10 of the UK’s finest chefs to explain
their signature dishes
104 BITESIZE BREAKS New food hot spots
in London, Paris, New York, Copenhagen
& San Sebastián
107 WEEKENDER: BATH West Country
ciders, tangy cheeses and smoked eel are
just a few of the treats this spa town offers
108 POSTCARD: DUBLIN Marina O’Loughlin
discovers cool cafés, hip food stores and
sophisticated restaurants
If you have an iPhone or iPad, you'll
love our new interactive app with
extra recipes, videos and photo
galleries, plus shopping lists and
bookmarks. Turn to p67 to find out
more and download at the Apple
App Store now for just £2.99.
Lulu’s notes112 Which tea you should buy and what
phosphates do for cocktails
113 Meat-free entertaining and essential
tips for making pastry cases
114 A chenin blanc to look out for and why
you should buy a jar spatula
115 How to cheat at cold brew coffee,
and making gelato
116 LEFTOVERS Imaginative ways
to use up ingredients from this
month's recipes
122 BANANA LOAF WITH PASSION
FRUIT FROSTING Find the recipe for
our bake of the month on page 114
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EDITORIALEDITOR Christine Hayes DEPUTY EDITOR Lulu Grimes FOOD EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe COOKERY WRITER Anna Glover ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill DESIGNER Mike Cutting PICTURE EDITOR Gabby Harrington TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon BattenCHIEF SUB/PRODUCTION EDITOR Gregor ShepherdSUB EDITOR Sarah Kingsbury EDITORIAL INTERNS Alexandra Groom, Lucy RoxburghWINE RECOMMENDATIONS Christine AustinCOMMISSIONING EDITOR Sophie DeningTo email us, please use [email protected]
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Contents
104114
SEPTEMBER 2014
O 85
cook everyday slimmer dinners
Low-calorie,low-fat and 5:2 diet-friendly mealsRecipes ANNA GLOVER Photographs ANT DUNCAN
Peanut tofu stir-fry
Prawn and avocado Vietnamese summer rolls
Halloumi, tomato and aubergine skewers
Grilled polenta with tomato and olive salad
SlimmerDINNERS
Make the most of marrow, sweetcorn, tomatoes, leeks, butternut squash and damsons while you can
Recipes LULU GRIMES Photographs PHILIP WEBB
In season
£2.99JUST
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 11
Starters, snacks and lunchboxes116 Buttered spring onions with prawns
116 Halloumi & mint pesto pittas
116 Mexican pinto bean dip
15 Posh cheese on toast
116 Quesadillas with pickled jalapenos
58 Salt-baked beetroot salad with goat’s
curd & smoked anchovy
36 Spiced squash soup
92 Thai corn cakes with pickled cucumber
Drinks20 Skipper
14 The Dalmation
Sides and sauces36 Chilli corn salsa
36 Corn cobs with chipotle butter
116 Cornichon & spring onion
potato salad
93 Creamed corn with chilli & paprika
36 Fresh tomato and peach salsa
60 Hispi cabbage & pumpkin gratin
116 Red cabbage with apple and brown
mustard seeds
36 Slow-roasted tomatoes
116 Soft polenta with parmesan & hazelnuts
36 Squash and spring onion mash
Breakfast and sweet things114 Banana loaf with passion fruit frosting
60 Blackberry cheesecake with
poached blackberries
36 Damson breakfast compote
36 Damson chutney
37 Damson slice
116 Grilled plums with vanilla mascarpone
116 Ground almond crumble
116 Marzipan, chocolate & desiccated
coconut truffles
66 Molten brigadeiro cake
70 Pecan praline ice cream
VEGETARIAN FREEZABLE
RICK STEIN'S FISH 48 HEALTHY IDEAS 87 MENU OF THE MONTH 57 CHEAP EATS 74 WHAT'S IN SEASON 30 COVER RECIPE
SEASONAL RECIPES82
116 Ground almond crumbed chicken
7 Lime and coconut roast chicken with
coriander chutney
14 Mediterranean chicken rigatoni
40 Simple roast chicken
40 Tagliatelle with lemon roast chicken
Vegetables
76 Broccoli salad with peppers, pine nuts
& sultanas
42 Butternut & sage risotto
32 Butternut squash & black bean
soup with tortilla
35 Coriander & spiced marrow curry
85 Courgette & chive pasta
78 Double-cheese & mushroom calzones
36 Garlic & lemon marrow
75 Green goddess salad
36 Grilled leeks with Parmesan crumbs
88 Grilled polenta with tomato &
olive salad
88 Halloumi, tomato & aubergine skewers
84 Late summer salad
36 Lemon-dressed roasted leeks
76 Pasta Norma
88 Peanut tofu stir fry
113 Peppers with mozzarella, chilli
and pine nuts
90 Roasted corn, black bean &
feta salad
75 Sourdough with spinach, egg
& mustard
43 Spinach & risotto stuffed tomatoes
45 Suppli al telefono
34 Tomato & cheese pie
36 Tomato & olive stuffed marrow
MainsMeat
62 Chilli dog
85 Crisp topped macaroni cheese
44 Hot & smoky beef chilli
46 Huevos rancheros
78 Louisiana red beans and rice
80 Pork and sage meatballs
84 Pork chops with apple chilli salsa
89 Pork chops with pommes boulangere
66 Roasted leg of lamb with mint chimichurri
46 Tamale pie
69 The Palomar’s shakshukit
Fish & seafood
52 Clams with XO sauce, spring
onions & coriander
85 Fish finger doorstep sandwich
52 Grey mullet soup with harissa, spring
onions & pink fir apple potatoes
54 Grilled miso salmon with rice noodles,
spring onions & beansprouts
49 Hot pollack slices in a wrap with bok
choi, beansprouts, garlic & ginger
54 Pan fried mackerel fillets, hot pickled
slaw & fried capers
88 Prawn & avocado Vietnamese
summer rolls
65 Roasted garlic-ginger prawns with
coconut & fresh herb crumbs
116 Salmon with chipotles in abodo glaze
31 Scallops with charred leeks & basil oil
52 Swordfish passanda
Birds
40 Asian chicken salad
33 Chicken & sweetcorn dumpling soup
58 Confit duck
FOR INTERACTIVE RECIPE CARDS GET THE APP page 67
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the editThis month: fizzy pop,
the perfect steak tartare and
the very best pub gardens
Compiled by SOPHIE DENING
Photographs STUART OVENDEN
Star recipeThe Dalmation
If you only make one recipe this month try this boozy milkshake from Soho diner, Stax staxdiner.com
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 13
14 O SEPTEMBER 2014
STAR RECIPE
The Dalmation5 MINUTES | MAKES 1 | EASY
Stax offers a US Deep South take on diner
food. As well as staples, such as the 28-day-
aged beef Stax burger and fries, there are
more unusual dishes on offer like buttermilk
fried chicken with waffles, shrimp po’ boy and
a menu of hard shakes, spiked with various
spirits and liqueurs. This super-thick shake
can easily double up as a pud, so provide
a spoon as well!
whole milk 50ml
good vanilla ice cream 3 scoops
Baileys 35ml
Oreo biscuits 4, plus one to decorate
squirty cream to finish
glacé cherry to decorate
• Pour the milk into a blender, add the ice
cream and Baileys, then crumble the biscuits
in, put the lid on and blend. You should be
left with a thick speckled shake. Pour into
a ready-chilled glass, then finish with squirty
cream, a glacé cherry and, if you like,
another biscuit.
PER SERVING 691 KCAL | PROTEIN 10.7G | CARBS 73.4G
FAT 35.3G | SAT FAT 21G | FIBRE 2.2G | SALT 1G
SUPERMARKET SWEEP Head to Tesco to cook this satisfying pasta dish
Mediterranean chicken rigatoni50 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Cook a Mediterranean chicken tray bake (£5/850g) following
packet instructions. When cooked, remove the chicken thighs and
slice. Cook 300g rigatoni (95p/500g) and drain. Toss the chicken
together with the rigatoni and sauce and roasted veg from the pack.
Season, divide between plates and scatter with a handful of chopped
basil (80p/31g).
+
£2.09PER PERSON
+ =
Trend-spotting: The new popBurger Monday Championship at Climpson’s
Arch in Hackney, during which I was handed
a bottle of its ginger beer. Fiery and
refreshing, it blew me away, and I went on
to drink many more.
Dalston Cola started life at a music venue/
community centre in East London called
Passing Clouds, when the owners asked
Duncan O’Brian to find them a more ethically-
produced cola. The chef at the time, Steve
Wilson, created a cola syrup using cola nuts
that he found at nearby Ridley Road Market.
Duncan had been working in the sustainable
food industry for a while and, together, they
went on, with advice from the Kernel brewery,
to develop the drink into a proper business.
Today they produce Dalston Cola, Raw
Fiyah ginger beer and Real
Lemonade using 100% natural
ingredients, and all by hand. This
is evident as soon as you taste
these awesome drinks. With
many of the cooler joints in East
London and further afield now
stocking their products, I can
see a bright future for them.
@ccDISCOBISTRO
dalstoncola.co.uk
He calls himself an
‘ad hoc addict’, and is
the brains behind pop-
ups like Rock Lobsta
and Disco Bistro. Each
month, chef and DJ Carl
Clarke scours the food
world to bring you the
best new trends.
E very Friday, when I was a kid, the
pop man used to do his rounds
on a milk float. He would deliver
big glass bottles of cream soda,
cherryade and cola. Not only did you drink
the pop, but you got 10p back on the empty
bottles, too, which worked out well when you’d
relieved your neighbours of their empties.
There’s been quite a lot in the media lately
about how much sugar is in your average high
street brand of fizzy drink. Six spoons to be
exact, and god knows what else is in there.
So I guess it was only a matter of time before
some young guns created a more natural,
equally refreshing, awesome fizzy drink.
I first came across Dalston Cola when I
competed in – and won – the Young & Foodish
FOR MORE FROM CARL
lulusnotes .com
15 O JULY 2014
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SEPTEMBER 2014 O 15
the edittrends & recipes
Food editor’s best buyJanine Ratcliffe’s favourite clever products
Quick bitesAs tried in the O test kitchen this month
Inside this gorgeous box, Prestat’s Black Forest Gateau Truffles are
supremely delicious milk chocolate
spheres piped full of silky cherry and
kirsch ganache, then rolled in creamy
white chocolate. £11.50, John Lewis
Brewed only with English blossoms – no
ready-made syrup here – Fentimans Wild English Elderflower is a new,
strictly seasonal addition to its range
of botanically brewed drinks, only on
sale while the season lasts. £1.50,
widely available
We’re impressed with these authentic and deeply
flavoured Miso Tasty soups.
Of the two flavours – classic
shiro and spicy aka – the latter,
a red miso laced with shichimi
mix is our favourite.
£7.70/£7.90 for eight
packets, misotasty.com
To celebrate 200 years as a classic English brand, Colman’s has
released three limited edition jars featuring archive slogans and
imagery – utilitarian but collectible. 99p/100g, widely available.
Posh cheese on toastThis new cheese spread from M&S is basically ready-made rarebit mix in a tub. Keep it simple, grilled on toast, or spread over skinless smoked haddock
fillets then bake in a hot oven until golden and bubbling. Serve with buttered spinach and grilled tomatoes. (£2.79/145g tub)
INGREDIENT WATCH
Kataifi pastry This threadlike dough, in fact shredded filo,
plays a traditional role in Greek and Levantine
confectionery and treats, and makes a good
nest for dessert ingredients. We’re seeing it
among new Middle Eastern restaurants, such
as Palomar (thepalomar.co.uk) in Soho, where
a rose and milk pudding comes with little
coconut meringues and delicate strands of
pastry. At Honey & Co (honeyandco.co.uk)
in Fitzrovia, the cream cheese and kataifi
dessert with honey and pistachio might be the
missing link between baklava and cheesecake.
The chefs at Ametsa (comohotels.com/
thehalkin) in Belgravia deploy it to wrap
a lollipop of scorpion fish. And at Masa
(masajapaneserestaurant.com) in Bristol, you
can eat Japanese-style kataifi-clad prawns.
MENU MUST-ORDER:
Hix Fix Jelly ShotWhen it’s hot, or after a heavy meal, we
love the trend for just a spoonful or two
or something sweet rather than a full-blown
pudding. At Hix Oyster and Fish House
in Lyme Regis, the Hix Fix jelly shot (£3.50)
is made with cider brandy producer Julian
Temperley’s morello cherries in Somerset
apple eau de vie, English fizz Nyetimber and
finished with cream and a morello cherry on
top. If you want to make something similar at
home, you can buy the cherries (£6/10cl) at
ciderbrandy.co.uk.
hixoysterandfishhouse.co.uk
16 O SEPTEMBER 2014
TABLE HOPPINGTOTO’S A glamorous bar with a knack for negronis,
waiting staff as attentive as they are beautiful,
and a secret courtyard make grown-up Italian
Toto’s worth a visit to Made in Chelsea territory.
The classic menu makes the most of top quality
ingredients, simply cooked with skill and
contemporary presentation, such as vitello
tonnato, £12, tagliatelle, summer truffle and
wild forest mushrooms, £15, and tiramisu, £6.
The mainly Italian wine list features a good
selection of wines by the glass, from £7,
including a fantastic still franciacorta.
MUST ORDER: Fritto misto with tartare sauce,
£24, basil panna cotta, £8.
totosrestaurant.com
HUTONG AT THE SHARDOther high-rise restaurants share the view
but lack the sex appeal of this moodily-lit
space. Kick off with a cocktail from a list
created to celebrate the restaurant’s first
anniversary, such as a Fujian Breeze (white
silver tip tea, Hendrick’s gin, Fernet Branca,
mint, cucumber); or a Red Snapper, a
gin-based bloody mary (see the recipe on
lulusnotes.com). Weekday lunch offers the
best deal: set lunch, £28 for five dim sum
dishes. Go at sunset, though, for the most
dramatic view.
MUST ORDER: Sichuan style double-cooked
Iberico pork loin with cabbage and bell
pepper, £26, crispy soft-shell crab with
Sichuan dried chilli, £29. hutong.co.uk
Follow Omagazine on Instagram for more
of the latest restaurant dishes, as well as test
kitchen and shoot snapshots.
ASK FOR JANICE This relaxed newbie near Smithfield Market is
big on gin, giving it its own dedicated menu:
have a Gin Mare with rosemary and orange
or a Martin Miller’s Westbourne, £9, with
strawberries and black pepper while snacking
on chicken crackling, £2.50, and seasonal
pickles, £3. Share a few small dishes like
black dahl, fried cauli and paneer, £6.50,
beef croquettes and mustards, £6.50, or go
large with a grilled comté, Bermondsey fryer
and raclette sandwich, £8. Vintage furniture
and modern artwork add to the chilled vibe.
MUST ORDER: Half a roast chicken with fries
and gravy, £13, little doughnuts with dunks,
£4. askforjanice.co.uk
Blogs we like Cate Bell, 19, from Brighton, is blogging at
cateinthekitchen.co.uk, fitting in cooking and
writing alongside her full-time job in tech.
Brought up on whole foods by her slightly
hippie parents, she set out to share her
rediscovery of healthy eating and nutritious
ingredients, and embarked on a six-week
vegan experiment, which has proved very
popular with her growing readership.
Posting recipes – vegan mango and coconut
loaf, burritos, budget stir-fry – with
appetising photos, as well as handy product
comparisons, Cate blogs in engaging style.
Rookie vegans and would-be healthy eaters
will find plenty to relate to.
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the editpeople & places
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 17
• There are many different stories regarding
the origin of steak tartare. A common one is
that the dish is linked to the Siberian Tartars
who travelled on horseback. They would
place some meat under the saddle, resulting
in a tender piece after a full day of riding.
• Using the highest quality of meat is
essential. We choose the flavoursome skirt cut
of 28-day-aged Aberdeen Angus beef, which
is hand-cut to order. Some restaurants prefer to
use fillet and mince the meat, but cutting it
finely by hand is the best way to keep all the
flavours and juices of the meat intact.
• We always ask guests how spicy they like it.
Cayenne supplies most of the spicy kick,
followed by piment d’Espelette and black
pepper, which are added to the mayonnaise.
The mayonnaise binds the flavours together. I
make it with organic egg yolk, Dijon mustard,
salt and pepper. Then I add anchovies, capers,
gherkins, shallots, and olive oil – finishing with
Worcestershire sauce and Remy Martin VSOP.
• I mix the steak tartare in front of the guest
and serve it from the Gueridon trolley. This
is the way it is served in France. For me,
steak tartare must always be accompanied
by french fries and a green salad.
THE WEST HOUSE, KENT‘Graham Garrett’s restaurant, The West House,
is set in a pretty corner of Kent, but his cooking
is daring and modern with great flavours.
‘He does a foie gras parfait with cured foie
gras, duck confit, pickled rhubarb and spiced
bread, and a fantastic, very classical dish of
grilled turbot and braised cuttlefish.
‘The West House is old world, with beams and
low ceilings, and family-run, with Graham’s
wife and son out front. It all makes for a
fantastic atmosphere’
thewesthouserestaurant.co.uk
Anywhere but LondonTOP TABLES OUTSIDE THE CAPITAL
In September I’ll mostly
be eating game. As the
season starts I’ll be
cooking some fantastic
grouse, pheasant and
venison. September is also
a great time for cobnuts.
I love Italian food
particularly nocellara
olives, lardo di colonnata,
Amalfi lemons. The bold
flavours and freshness
are everything I look for
in food.
If you gave me a tenner I‘d
spend it on Forum muscat
vinegar, a beautifully
elegant sweet vinegar that
gives a lovely edge to
dressings, soups,
vinaigrettes and sauces.
My favourite piece of
kitchen kit is the Smoking
Gun hand-held food
smoker. It’s really easy
to use and has lots of
different application
options, letting you smoke
everything from olive oil
to marshmallows.
Every kitchen needs a roll
of clingfilm. It may be
simple, but its importance
can’t be overstated.
I love eating at The
Sportsman in Seasalter,
Kent. The food is brilliant,
the staff are fantastic and
the location is enchanting.
Andrew McLeish, executive chef at Michelin-starred
Chapter One in Locksbottom (chapteronerestaurant.co.uk),
Orpington, tells us about a fine-dining favourite in Kent.
The hotel’s head chef has brought the menu of this formal but unstuffy family-owned institution up to date without sacrificing any of its British tradition. The menu features classics such as beef Wellington and its signature dish eggs drumkilbo, a seafood cocktail much-loved by the late Queen Mother – The Goring is the hotel nearest to Buckingham Place. thegoring.com
Richard Weiss, co-owner of new Brasserie
Gustave, explains how to serve the perfect
steak tartare. brasserie-gustave.com
PEOPLE WE LIKE
Shay Cooper, the Goring
Cheat sheetSteak tartare
Pecorino marzolino
rosso is a semi-
hard ewe’s milk
cheese from Italy,
rubbed with tomato
paste to achieve its
distinctive colour
and sweet flavour.
(£10.47/300g)
For a beautiful
selection of our
freshest Italian
produce, try our large
fresh vegetable and
fruit box. We import
two pallets direct from
the market in Milan
every week. (£25)
Campofilone chitarra
pasta is similar to
spaghetti but flat:
traditionally it is
created by pressing
pasta sheets through
wires strung like
a chitarra (guitar).
(£4.99/250g)
The Caffè
Bar coffee
was created
by Carlo
Contini,
Philip’s
father, and
is vacuum
packed
when
roasted and
ground to make
sure it stays fresh.
We love it so much
it’s used in our café
and restaurant.
(£4.99/250g)
The Fonteluna
sausage is made
for Valvona & Crolla
from our own
200-year-old family
recipe, and has
its own registered
trademark. (£6.99)
The Oxford Companion to Food, 3rd edition
IN OUR GOOD BOOKS
The wondrousness of this
reference book,
compiled by Alan
Davidson and updated
by his collaborator Tom
Jaine, cannot be
overstated. We defy you
not to get sidetracked as
you look up Pliny,
lichens, toast, sous vide
and Abernethy biscuits,
among more than
3,000 entries. (£40, OUP)
PH
OTO
GRA
PH
S: A
DRIA
N T
AYLO
R
18 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Object of desire Mary and Philip Contini, fourth-
generation owners of Edinburgh’s
Valvona & Crolla Italian
delicatessen highlight some
favourite products.
There’s a new one every month from Originàrio, which packs its wooden boxes with artisanal food and wine
products from small producers around Italy, plus tasting notes and recipes.
(About £150, originar.io)
BUYER’S GUIDE
Our classic
V&C prosecco
is a delicate
and elegant
fizz, with
aromas
of green
apple, pear
and melon.
It is light on
the palate,
with notes
of citrus
and stone fruits.
(£12.95/75cl)
Produced at the
Belmonte estate
on the Amalfi coast,
Punta Licosa
tarragon & garlic
infused olive oil
is incredibly versitile;
ideal for soups, or to
drizzle on roasted
veg, with salmon or
in a mayonnaise.
(£10.95/25cl)
Brindisi rosso is
packed with dark
forest fruits and
plum; full-
bodied, soft,
supple,
harmonious
and velvety.
A classic.
(£10.95/
75cl)
Italian tasting box
the editshopping
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The pretty design and subtle
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across a range of vintage
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and cookware.
Order now at:www.english-table.comFor your nearest stockist
please call:
01536 207710
20 O SEPTEMBER 2014
the editdrinks
BOOZE BUY ABELHA
ORGANIC CACHAÇA
OK, so England didn’t storm to victory
in the World Cup, but some good
did come out of their adventures
in Brazil, namely that they introduced
a lot of people to the caipirinha and
its key ingredient. Made from organic
sugar cane, and small-batch distilled
in copper pots, Abelha’s cachaça
is full-flavoured, with intense fruity
notes and a smooth finish, perfect for
making caipirinhas at home.
Find our recipe on lulusnotes.com.
(£22.25, thewhiskyexchange.com)
Speakeasy-style bars are all the rage and
the Discount Suit Company has got it spot
on. Once there, you’ll be greeted by low
beams, antique furniture, and some
outstanding cocktails. The team launch
their second venue, the Sun Tavern in
Bethnal Green later this month.
(discountsuit company.co.uk)
Skipper5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
Flor de Caña* 25ml
white port 20ml
Antica Formula 25ml
Angostura bitters a dash
Pour the ingredients into a tumbler and
stir with ice to dilute to taste. Zest with
orange and drop the peel into the glass.
*Flor de Caña is available from
thewhiskyexchange.com (£16/37.5cl)
Cocktail of the month
BAR HOPPINGIf you’re looking for the best pub gardens for
rest or play, try these recommendations
THE LORD CLIFDEN, BIRMINGHAMFollow the golden
goose outside and
you’ll find the ultimate
pub garden in which
your Sunday will
disappear. Retro
games, ping pong,
TVs showing sport,
killer roasts and an
outdoor bar. What’s
not to love?
(thelordclifden.com)
THE AVALON, LONDONThe Avalon’s back
garden (below) is
so much more than
a patio with benches.
Filled with flowers,
umbrellas, tables and
chairs, it’s perfect for
a sunny afternoon.
Tuck into its full menu
or grab a burger
from the BBQ. If it
gets cold, snuggle
up to a heater with
a blanket. (the
avalonondon.com)
DUKE’S 92, MANCHESTERLooking for an
outside drinking spot,
you can’t do much
better than this. These
guys have got size on
their side. It’s a
buzzy place, so bring
all your mates and
relax as the BBQ is
fired up. (dukes92.
com)
BARGAIN BOTTLEVineyards Côtes du
Rhône NV, France,
13% (£3.89, Tesco)
For mid-week
suppers, this is a
great-value, simple,
juicy Rhône wine
with raspberry fruit
and soft tannins.
Perfect with pizza.
CÔTES DU RHÔNEOur wine expert Christine Austin chooses
wines to suit your budget
WORTH THE EXTRAE. Guigal Côtes du
Rhône 2010, France,
14% (£11.75,
Majestic)
This Côtes du Rhône
is a big step up in
quality. It has a core
of robust, dark red
berry fruit, overlaid
with spice and white
pepper notes. It’s
great with a spiced
lamb tagine.
TWO PRICES
One wine
FOR MORE BAR TIPS,
GET THE APP!See page 67Ask the bartender
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BOURBON AND WHISKEY?Bourbon is a type of whiskey produced in
the US. The main difference between the
two is in the production process: bourbon
has to contain at least 51% of corn and
that gives it a sweeter taste than other
whiskeys. After distillation, the bourbon is
rested in charred new oak barrels with an
ABV of no more than 62.5%. Whiskey
that doesn’t meet these specific conditions
is not bourbon. For drinks like old
fashioned or Manhattan,
go for your favourite
bourbon, I like
Woodford Reserve
or Maker’s Mark.
Boris Chlebec works at
the Big Easy in Covent
Garden which stocks
over 40 bourbons
(bigeasy.co.uk)
YOUR EVERYD
AY INDULG
ENCE
From the iconic Classic Cafetière to espresso makers,
chocolatières, teapots, gift sets and accessories La Cafetière has the ideal
product for you to create that perfect ‘Cafè experience’ at home.
Call +44 (0)1536 207710 Order now at: [email protected] Visit us at: www.lacafetiere.com
La Madeleine Bonne Maman. A traditional French recipe with
fresh eggs and butter. Lovingly baked, individually wrapped.
Delicious to eat.
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 23
STYLIN
G: LU
IS P
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Lulu’s kitchen kit
I’ve chosen my favourite trusted brands
here. Of course you’ll also need a
chopping board, a wooden spoon or
three, and a couple of decent knives,
as well as a few cheaper items (see page 26)
but you don’t need to spend a fortune to start
with, just what you can afford. Look in
supermarkets and IKEA for saucepans,
chopping boards, colanders etc. You can
always upgrade when you have more cash.
Modern recipes demand a different set of tools to those your mother owned. Here are today’s must haves so you can knock out a Thai curry, red velvet cake and decent coffee with ease Words LULU GRIMES Photography MYLES NEW
BENRINER MANDOLINE
Why? To cut wafer-thin radish slices for
Japanese pickles, shave fennel for a salad and
make light work of a potato dauphinoise you
need a mandolin. This will also shred carrot
and celeriac into fine matchsticks and speed
up stir-fry chopping for a realistic 30-minute
meal. I like this Japanese mandoline because it
is compact and fits in my kitchen drawer, plus,
I can sharpen the blade in my knife sharpener.
Cost These cost around £20, but you may find
one marginally cheaper on ebay.co.uk.
MAGIMIX
MINI CHOPPER
Why? You can use it to chop garlic and
onions, or anything else for that matter. It will
purée chickpeas to make houmous, make
mayonnaise with the emulsifying blade, chop
nuts and whizz together a batch of pastry. The
blade is very efficient, so purées are smooth
and chopped items evenly sized and lump-free.
The bowl comes off so cleaning is simple and
it’s heavy enough to stay steady.
Cost About £49.95, and a worthwhile
investment. johnlewis.com
24 O SEPTEMBER 2014
DELONGHI SCULTURA ECZ351
COFFEE MACHINE
Why? If a coffee first thing in the morning
is essential to you, a decent coffee machine
will be paid for very quickly. The ECZ351 can
be used with ground coffee or ESE pods, has
a steam pipe for milk and a cup warmer on
top. It isn’t fully automatic, so you have to
control the strength of your coffee but it gives
a good crema.
Cost £199.95, which, versus cost of coffee
bought by the cup over a year, is very
reasonable. johnlewis.com
BODUM HAND MIXER
Why? A hand whisk is essential for baking.
You can use it for small amounts of batter
and a stand mixer won’t do justice to 1 egg
white, so unless you are planning on making
wedding cakes, a hand mixer may well be
enough for you. Plus you can use it for other
things; potatoes can be whisked to fluffy mash
still in the saucepan, or a zabaglione knocked
up in a bain marie. This Bodum mixer has a
good motor and is comfortable to hold.
Cost The best price I’ve found is Tesco direct’s
at £29.95. tesco.com/direct/
SALTER AIR SUPER SLIM
KITCHEN SCALES
Why? A lot of recipes rely on precise weights,
so if you want to get it right, you can’t function
without scales. These fit in a drawer and the
zero-weight mechanism means you can put
whatever you want on them – I weigh straight
into bowls, plastic boxes and saucepans or
straight onto the stainless steel top. They also
measure liquid in ml if you need them to.
Cost RRP £29.99 but often much cheaper
on amazon.co.uk.
OXO GOOD GRIPS ANGLED
MEASURING JUG
Why? Because bread-making, baking and
anything else with a precise liquid
measurement requires a jug rather than
guestimating with a wine glass. This is a jug
you can use looking down into, as well as
through the side, which makes it ideal and it
starts at 10ml which is great.
Cost A bargain at £6.99, lakeland.co.uk
whisk
WEIGH
measure
25 O JULY 2014SEPTEMBER 2014 O 25
need to know kitchen kit
SAINSBURY’S COOK’S COLLECTION TRI-PLY 24CM SAUTÉ PANWhy? A sauté pan with a lid has many uses.
I like copper, and I don’t mind cleaning it,
so this is my favourite at the moment. The
non-stick surface conducts and distributes heat
really well, it fries an egg and cooks bacon
without trouble. I use it to make stews, tagines
and curries and also paella, and because the
handle goes in the oven (it is oven safe to
180C) I can start a piece of meat in it and then
transfer it while making only
one pan dirty. Its only downfall is that it won’t
work on an induction hob.
Cost In the world of good quality pans this is
not expensive at £60, and occasionally they
come up in sales so keep your eyes peeled.
sainburys.co.uk
CUISINART SG20 ELECTRIC SPICE AND NUT GRINDERWhy? If you plan on making your own spice
blends (freshly ground garam masala beats the
pants off ready-bought) or curry pastes,
grinding nuts or flavouring sugars with herbs,
a decent grinder will save you lots of time. It
does the job of a pestle and mortar and is
more efficient than a mini chopper when you
want a fine grind. You won’t know how you
managed without it.
Cost £49.95 and worth every penny if Indian
food features regularly in your life.
johnlewis.com
MICROPLANE FINE GRATERWhy? This will zest a lemon, lime or orange
perfectly, turn garlic cloves and lumps of
ginger to pulp, convert parmesan to fine
shavings and grate nutmeg freshly. It is the
original kitchen helper and, with its super-
sharp etched blades, really does have the
edge on others. Buy a coarse one as well
and you’ll have cheese and chocolate grating
covered too.
Cost At £14.99, the Home Series is cheaper
than some of the other microplane series.
lakeland.co.uk.
SIZZLE
GRATE
26 O SEPTEMBER 2014
need to know kitchen kit
10 ESSENTIALS FOR
UNDER A TENNER
U-SHAPED POTATO PEELERLakeland has one at a bargain price that
is sharp and efficient and has a big U which
makes peeling easier. £2.29, lakeland.co.uk.
FISH SLICE/TURNERBuy a nylon one if you have non stick pans.
You can often buy a set and get a big spoon
and slotted spoon too.
SAUCE WHISKThese are cheap as chips and are great for
belting lumps out of sauce, whisking eggs
together and making dressing quickly.
MIXING BOWLSStacking bowls are easier to store. I like
stainless steel or polypropylene as they
are lighter than glass or ceramic.
TIN OPENERAlthough some tins have ring-pulls, plenty
don’t. Buy one that suits your grip and consider
electric if you find turning the key difficult.
KITCHEN SCISSORSSnip herbs, cut up pizza, joint chicken (buy
ones with a groove for cutting through bones).
A good pair of kitchen scissors can be used
instead of a knife on lots of occasions.
MEASURING SPOONS Essential for baking when guessing isn’t good
enough. Buy a set that ties together.
A COLANDERThe JosephJoseph square colander has a good
handle, knobbly feet on the base so you can
put it down, and a shape that helps disgorge
the contents easily. £9.50, johnlewis.com.
A RUBBER SPATULAI like spatulas with handles that won’t pull off
easily, otherwise the top gets stuck in the mix.
TONGSTongs are dead useful for turning things over,
lifting pasta out of pans and moving hot
ingredients around. If you have non-stick
pans buy ones with rubber edges.
KENWOOD STICK BLENDERWhy? This can do the job of a mini chopper
if you don’t own one, and if you’re a heavy
consumer of soups, you’ll find it a godsend.
Efficient at making smooth purées, it has three
blades instead of the usual two, a motor with
plenty of welly, and the purée attachment
means it’s not splashy (some brands are more
so than others). The basic model is cheaper,
but if you spend more you can have a whisk
attachment for whipping egg whites and cream
and a bowl for chopping nuts, garlic etc.
Cost The basic model is around £29.99 and
the one with attachments £59.99, currys.co.uk
STELTON AJ PEPPER MILLWhy? An efficient, well-made pepper grinder
will last you a lifetime. This has the added joy
of being very easy to refill: the rubber knob
pulls out of the top and the peppercorns pour
straight in. Mine is 10 years old and as good
as the day it was bought.
Cost £59.95. Ask for it as a present.
skandium.com
FOR MORE KITCHEN TIPS
lulusnotes .com
to the customer
This 50p coupon may be used as part payment towards your next purchase of any Mission Deli Wrap pack product. One coupon per person. Coupon must be presented at time of purchase , can only be used once and must be surrendered upon use. Not to be used in conjunction with any other of er, promotion, discount or other coupon. Only original and undamaged coupons accepted. Void if reproduced, altered or tampered with. Not for sale or auction. Not available online. valid until: 01/11/14
to the retaiLER
Mission Deli will redeem this coupon at the value of 50p provided it has been taken as part payment towards any Mission Deli Wrap pack product in accordance with the Customer terms. Mission Deli reserves the right to request proof of purchase or to refuse redemption of defaced or damaged coupons or those that have not been correctly redeemed as per instructions. Send coupons to Valassis, PO Box 6199,
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W I L K I N & S O N S L I M I T E D T I P T R E E C O L C H E S T E R E S S E X C O 5 0 R F W W W. T I P T R E E . C O M
T i p t r e e . T h e p r e s e r v e o f g o o d t a s t e .
“ I h a v e t h e s i m p l e s t t a s t e s ,
I a m a l w a y s s a t i s f i e d w i t h t h e b e s t . ”
Osca r Wi lde 1854 -1900
Tagliatelle with
lemon roast chicken
page 47
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 29
PH
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: PETER C
ASSID
Y
Melting onion,
pine nut and
curd cheese tart
page 51
Relaxed recipes for a spare afternoon in the kitchen, or cooking for friends
weekendCOOK
GRILLED MISO SALMON | BLACKBERRY CHEESECAKE | PRALINE ICE-CREAM | SMOKY BEEF CHILLI SUPPLÌ AL TELEFONO | TOMATO AND CHEDDAR PIE | SWORDFISH PASSANDA
30 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Scallops with
charred leeks
and basil oil
page 32
Make the most of marrow, sweetcorn, tomatoes, leeks, butternut squash and damsons while you can
Recipes LULU GRIMES Photographs PHILIP WEBB
In season
cook weekend in season
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 31
Buternut squash and black bean soup with tortillas page 32
Scallops with charred leeks and basil oil30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
baby leeks 6
olive oil 100ml
basil a bunch
scallops 10, cleaned and roes left on if you like them
cherry tomatoes 10, halved
• Rub the leeks with a little oil, then chargrill for 10 minutes until very
brown on the outside. Put them in a dish, cover them tightly with foil and
put a tea towel on top so they continue cooking in the residual heat.
• Whizz the basil leaves with enough oil to give a thick, dark dressing.
• Brush the scallops with oil and season them well. Heat a pan until
it is very hot, then fry the scallops on each side for a couple of minutes
until they are brown and crisp. Pull the outer layer of skin off each leek.
Divide them between 2 plates, add 5 scallops and 10 halves of cherry
tomatoes to each. Spoon over the basil oil dressing to serve.
PER SERVING 359 KCALS | PROTEIN 11.1G | CARBS 6.7G | FAT 31.1G | SAT FAT 4.5G | FIBRE 3.4G
SALT 0.8G
Buternut squash and black bean soup with tortillas40 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
onions 2, finely chopped
oil
garlic 4 cloves, finely sliced
ground coriander 1 tbsp
tinned cherry tomatoes 2 x 400g tins
chipotle chillies in adobo 3, chopped
butternut squash 1 small, peeled and cubed
chicken stock 1.5 litres
black beans 400g tin
tortillas 2
soured cream 6 tbsp
cheddar grated to make 6 tbsp
avocado, 1 cubed
pickled jalapeño chillies 4 rings, finely chopped
• Fry the onion in plenty of oil in a deep pan until it softens, then add
the garlic and coriander and fry for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes
and chillies and bring to a bubble, then season well and add the squash
and chicken stock. Simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the squash is
tender. Stir in the beans and heat through for a minute.
• Meanwhile, toast the tortillas in a dry frying pan until they are crisp,
then cut into slices. Serve the soup topped with the soured cream, cheese,
avocodo and jalapeños, with the tortilla slices on the side.
PER SERVING 382 KCALS | PROTEIN 20.3G | CARBS 32.4G | FAT 16.8G | SAT FAT 7.4G | FIBRE 9.9 G
SALT 1.2G
Wine match Simple red berry fruit and soft tannins in Zilzie Merlot 2012, South Australia, 14%
(£5, Asda) work well with this soup.
Wine match Perfect with shellfish, try the crisp, sea-breeze tang of Finest Picpoul de Pinet 2013,
Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 12.5% (£7.99, Tesco).
32 O SEPTEMBER 2014
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S. FO
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STY
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Chicken and sweetcorn dumpling soup 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
skinless chicken breast fillet 200g, finely chopped
spring onions 4 (2 finely chopped, 2 sliced)
ginger grated to make 2 tsp
sweetcorn 1 cob, kernels sliced off
soy sauce 3 tbsp
wonton wrappers 20
chicken stock 1 litre
egg noodles 2 nests, cooked
chilli oil to serve
• Mix the chicken with the chopped spring onion and 1 tsp
ginger. Cook 3 tbsp of the corn in simmering water for
2 minutes, drain and add to the chicken with 1 tbsp soy sauce.
Use this mix to fill the wonton wrappers, wetting the edges so
you can pinch them together into a triangle shape.
• Bring the chicken stock to a simmer and add the sliced spring
onions, remaining corn and ginger, and soy sauce. Add the
wontons and cook them for 5 minutes, until the chicken is cooked
through. Stir in the noodles to heat them through. Add a drop
of chilli oil to each bowl of soup to serve, if you like.
PER SERVING 355 KCALS | PROTEIN 29.1G | CARBS 51.9G | FAT 2.6G | SAT FAT 0.7G
FIBRE 3.5G | SALT 3.9G
Wine match Team this soup with the soft apricot flavours of Santa Rita 120 Viognier 2013,
Central Valley, Chile, 13.5% (£8.99, Majestic Wine).
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 33
cook weekend in season
Tomato and cheese pie1½ HOURS | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
shortcrust pastry 350g block
egg 1, beaten
butter
breadcrumbs 4 tbsp
thyme leaves picked to make 1 tbsp
onion 1, sliced
gruyère cheese 100g, grated
cheddar 75g, grated
tomatoes 6 large, sliced
• Cut off the pastry and roll out the remaining piece to line a 20cm
buttered pie dish. Chill for 15 minutes.
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Blind bake the pastry for
12 minutes, then remove the beans and paper and cook the pastry for
2 minutes longer, or until golden. Brush the base with egg and put it
back in the oven for 1 minute.
• Meanwhile, melt a large knob of butter in a frying pan and fry the
breadcrumbs until they are golden, then stir in the thyme. Sprinkle some
herby crumbs into the bottom of the pie. Mix the cheeses with the
remaining crumbs, season well then layer the tomato with onion and
cheese mixture into the pie. Roll out the rest of the pastry to make a lid,
brush the top with the rest of the egg and cut a steam hole in the top.
• Bake for 45-50 minutes until the pie is golden. Leave to sit for at least
15 minutes before serving or the centre will be too runny.
PER SERVING 726 KCALS | PROTEIN 22G | CARBS 59.7G | FAT 43G | SAT FAT 18.2G | FIBRE 6G
SALT 1.9G
Wine match Lively cherry fruit and a touch of spice in Jewel of Nasik Tempranillo Shiraz 2013,
India, 13% (£6.99, M&S) adds a layer of savoury flavours to this dish.
34 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Coriander and spiced marrow curry30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
onions 2, chopped
oil
cumin seeds 1 tsp
brown mustard seeds 1 tsp
cayenne pepper a pinch
turmeric ½ tsp
tomatoes 2, chopped
marrow 1 small, cubed
lemon 1, juiced
coriander a bunch, chopped
natural yoghurt to serve
steamed rice to serve
• Fry the onion in some oil until it softens – this will take about 5 minutes.
Add the spices and turn up the heat, stir and fry for a minute and then
add the tomatoes, stir and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the marrow and
a splash of water, then put a lid on the pan and cook for 5 minutes,
or until the marrow is tender but not mushy. Season with salt, pepper
and lemon juice, then stir in the coriander. Serve with some yoghurt
and steamed rice.
PER SERVING 100 KCALS | PROTEIN 3G | CARBS 11.4G | FAT 4G | SAT FAT 0.5G | FIBRE 3.4G
SALT 0.2G
Wine match Made to vegetarian standards, try the ripe pear and
citrus flavours of Wattle Flat Verdelho/
Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Langhorne Creek,
South Australia, 12% (£8.99,
Waitrose) with this veggie dish.
cook weekend in season
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 35
REC
IPES:
AN
NA
GLO
VER
36 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Want more ideas?
Also in seasonCELERIAC, OYSTERS, BEETROOT,
CHESTNUTS, PEARS
sweetcorn Corn cobs with chipotle buterSERVES 2
Mix 50g softened butter with 2 tsp chipotle
paste. Wrap in clingfilm, roll into a sausage
and chill. Rub corn cobs with olive oil.
Season and grill for 10-15 minutes, turning, until
tender. Top with slices of chipotle butter and
a squeeze of lime.
Chilli corn salsaSERVES 2 AS A SIDE
Slice the kernels off a corn cob, blanch in
boiling water for 3 minutes, then cool. Toss
with 1 seeded, finely diced red chilli, 1 diced
red pepper and 1 diced avocado. Toss with
juice of 1 lime, 1 tbsp oil and season well.
tomatoesSlow-roasted tomatoes SERVES 4
Halve 500g tomatoes and toss with 2 tbsp
olive oil and 1 tsp sugar. Season and
arrange, cut side up, on a lined baking tray.
Scatter with dried oregano and cook for
about 2 hours at 140C/fan 120C/gas 1 until no
longer juicy. Serve in salads or with white fish.
Fresh tomato and peach salsaSERVES 4
Toss 2 stoned, diced peaches with 6 seeded,
diced plum tomatoes. Add 1 diced
jalapeño, 1 finely diced red onion, juice of
1 lime and a handful chopped coriander.
Season and serve as a dip or with burgers.
leeksGrilled leeks with cheesy crumbsSERVES 4
Blanch 12 baby leeks in boiling salted water
for 3 minutes, then drain and cool. Put into an
ovenproof dish and brush with a little oil. Toss
50g grated parmesan or gruyère with 4 tbsp
breadcrumbs, season well and scatter over.
Grill for 5 minutes until golden and bubbling.
Lemon-dressed roasted leeks SERVES 2
Halve 4 small leeks, brush with oil and
season. Roast at 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for
15-20 minutes until softened and starting to char.
Whisk together 1 tbsp oil, juice of 1 lemon,
1 tsp Dijon mustard, 1 tbsp white wine
vinegar, a pinch sugar, and a handful
chopped parsley. Pour over the leeks to serve.
damsonsDamson breakfast compote SERVES 6
Simmer 12 halved, stoned damsons with
4 tbsp brown sugar, a handful blueberries
and a pinch cinnamon with a splash of water
for 10 minutes until the fruits start to break
down. Serve on top of natural yoghurt with
a little granola or toasted flaked almonds.
Damson chutney SERVES 6 WITH CHEESE
Halve, stone and quarter 8 damsons. Mix
with ½ diced onion, 1 cored, diced apple
and 1 tsp grated ginger. Simmer gently with
80ml cider vinegar and 20g sugar until the
fruits soften and the chutney thickens. Serve
with cheese.
buternut squashSpiced squash soupSERVES 4
Halve and seed 1 squash. Score and rub with
2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp garam masala and
seasoning. Roast at 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for
20 minutes until soft and golden. Fry 1 diced
onion, 1 seeded, diced green chilli and 2 tsp
grated ginger in 1 tbsp oil for 3 minutes.
Scoop the squash out of the skins and add to the
onion mix with 1 litre vegetable stock.
Simmer for 15 minutes, then blend. Serve with a
dollop of yoghurt and pinch of garam masala.
Squash and spring onion mash SERVES 2 AS A SIDE
Boil ½ peeled, cubed squash until tender, then
mash with 1 tbsp butter. Fry 1 diced spring
onion in butter until soft. Add a few sage
leaves at the end to crisp. Stir into the mash,
season and add a pinch smoked paprika.
marrowTomato and olive stuffed marrowSERVES 6
Cut 6 fat discs of marrow and scoop out most
of the middle. Drizzle with a little oil, season
and bake for 30 minutes at 180C/fan 160C/
gas 4. Fry 1 crushed garlic clove and 1
diced onion in a little oil to soften. Add 1 tin
chopped tomatoes and a handful sliced
black olives. Simmer for 10 minutes, then add
a handful chopped basil, season and spoon
into the marrow. Top with a slice of mozzarella
and bake for 10 minutes until tender and golden.
Garlic and lemon marrowSERVES 4 AS A SIDE
Toss ½ cubed marrow with a glug of olive
oil, 4 bashed garlic cloves, 1 chopped
rosemary sprig and zest of 1 lemon.
Season and roast at 200C/fan 180C/
gas 6 for 20-30 minutes until tender and golden.
Cool slightly, squeeze over ½ lemon and
a little more olive oil to serve.
cook weekend in season
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 37
Damson slice
1 HOUR + CHILLING | SERVES 6 | EASY
damsons 350g, halved and stoned
golden caster sugar 3 tbsp
puff pastry 400g
white marzipan 100g
ground almonds 3 tbsp
egg 1, beaten
• Put the damsons in a pan with the sugar and a splash of water and
simmer until the fruit breaks down a little, then cool.
• Halve the pastry, roll one piece out to approx 16 x 20cm and lift it
onto a baking sheet. Roll the marzipan out and lay it in the centre of the
pastry, leaving a gap around the edge. Spoon damsons on top and
sprinkle over the ground almonds. Brush around the edge of the pastry
with egg, then roll out the second piece of pastry and put on top. Seal
the edges, press them down, then trim the excess. Use a sharp knife to
slash the top of the pastry in 2 or 3 places. Brush the top with egg and
chill the slice for 20 minutes.
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Bake the slice for 30-40
minutes or until the pastry is risen and golden and the damsons begin to
bubble through the slashes. Cool a little before slicing. Serve with custard.
PER SERVING 442 KCALS | PROTEIN 8.3G | CARBS 50G | FAT 22.8G | SAT FAT 8.2G | FIBRE 1.4G
SALT 0.6G
Wine match
Chill a bottle of Kourtaki Mavrodaphne of Patras, Greece, 15% (£4.99, Tesco) and
pour a glass of this creamy, plummy sweet wine to accompany this damson slice. Alternatively, splash
a little on the slice before pouring the custard.
A weekend to savourJersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint. Michelin-starred places,
where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs
and trendy cafés serve crab sandwiches so full, you’ll need the miles of breathtaking beaches
to walk them of ! Country places deep in the island’s lush interior, where cosy inns serving
fresh-from-the-fi eld produce are tucked away. And stylish places where, af er a day
exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing spa treatment. Add a mild climate,
easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value of ers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.
jersey.com
*Return price per person, including taxes, with easyJet from Gatwick. Price correct at time of print.
Flights
£from
53rtn*
Crab claw gumbo with
fiery pepper rouille
page 48
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SEPTEMBER 2014 O 39
One classic recipe, two great twists
Cook the perfect roast chicken, butternut risotto and smoky beef chilli, then get creative with the leftovers
Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs PETER CASSIDY
Herb-roast chickenpage 40
40 O SEPTEMBER 2014
ANY LEFTOVERS? MAKE THESE . . .Tagliatelle with lemon roast chicken30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
tagliatelle or thin papardelle 150g
roast chicken 200g
fresh soft herbs such as tarragon, basil or parsley a small
handful of one or a mix, roughly chopped
• Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling, salted water, following the pack
instructions, then drain.
• Keep the juices from the chicken roasting tin, strain into a pan, then
strip the chicken from the carcass in generous, bite-sized pieces and
re-heat the juices. Put the drained tagliatelle into a big bowl and add
the chicken and some seasoning. Add the herbs, then toss with enough
roasting juices to coat the pasta and serve.
PER SERVING 386 KCALS | PROTEIN 35.6G | CARBS 39.8G | FAT 9.3G | SAT FAT 2.1G
FIBRE 0.2G | SALT 0.3G
MASTER A SIMPLE ROAST CHICKENHerb-roast chicken1 HOUR 45 MINUTES + OVERNIGHT SITTING | SERVES 4 | EASY
chicken 1, about 2kg, giblets removed
olive oil
lemon 2 quarters
thyme, rosemary or tarragon a handful, depending on preference
onion 1 large, cut into fat discs
• The day before you want to cook the chicken, take it out of any
wrapping, sit in a large ceramic dish (to catch any juices that drip out)
and leave it uncovered in the fridge on the lowest shelf.
• The next day, take the chicken out of the fridge and let it sit at room
temperature for 50 minutes before you start cooking. Heat the oven to
220C/fan 200C/gas 7.
• Brush the chicken with olive oil, season it with salt and pepper inside and
out, then put the lemon quarters and a few sprigs of herbs in the cavity.
• Put the chicken in a shallow roasting tin on top of the onion discs, add
a splash of water to the tin and roast for 20 minutes. Turn the oven down
to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4 and cook for another hour. Check to see if the
chicken is cooked by pushing a skewer into the thigh and checking that
the juices run out clear, not pink. Cook for a little longer if you need to,
then remove the bird from the oven and leave to rest for 15 minutes
before carving. This lets the juices re-absorb, giving juicy, succulent
meat that’s easier to carve.
PER SERVING 553 KCALS | PROTEIN 62.6G | CARBS 32.5G | FAT 16.8G | SAT FAT 4.2G
FIBRE 0.6G | SALT 0.3G
Asian chicken salad20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
cooked, shredded chicken 200g
shallot 1, finely sliced
cherry tomatoes 8, halved
mint a handful of leaves
Thai basil a handful of leaves
DRESSING
garlic 1 clove, crushed
bird’s-eye chillies 1-2, finely chopped
ginger a thumb sized piece, finely grated
limes 2, juiced
palm or soft brown sugar 2 tbsp
fish sauce 3 tbsp
• Put the chicken in a bowl with the shallot and cherry tomatoes. Mix
the dressing ingredients together and pour over the chicken. Add the
herbs and toss everything together to serve.
PER SERVING 296 KCALS | PROTEIN 31.4G | CARBS 24.4G | FAT 7.8G | SAT FAT 2.2G
FIBRE 1.2G | SALT 4.8G
Wine match A perfect roast chicken needs a wine that everyone will enjoy. Try the smooth-tasting,
dark cherry and raspberry fruit in Louis Jadot Beaujolais Lantignié 2012, France,
12.5% (£11.99 Majestic Wine), and even add a splash of wine to the gravy.
With crisp citrus notes and just a hint of herbs, Piersanti Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi,
2013, Italy, 12.5% (£8, Asda) is the ideal match with this dish and it can also cope with
the Asian chicken salad.
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 41
Asian
chicken salad
page 40
cook weekend one recipe, two twists
COOK THE PERFECT RISOTTO
Buternut and sage risoto30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
onion 1 small, chopped
olive oil
butternut squash or pumpkin 250g, peeled and diced
carnaroli or arborio (risotto) rice 200g
vegetable or chicken stock 800ml, hot
sage a few leaves, chopped
parmesan or Grana Padano grated to make 2 tbsp, to serve
• Fry the onion gently in 1 tbsp oil in a deep frying pan or sauté pan
until soft but not browned. Add the squash and rice and stir for a few
seconds to coat the grains with oil.
• Add a couple of ladles of stock and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring,
until almost all the stock is absorbed.
• Add the rest of the stock a little at a time, cooking until each addition
is absorbed before adding the next, until the squash is soft and the rice
is creamy but still al dente. Stir in the sage and season well. Divide the
risotto between bowls and sprinkle with cheese to serve.
PER SERVING 241 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.9G | CARBS 45.6G | FAT 3.7G | SAT FAT 0.4G
FIBRE 2.9G | SALT 0.5G
42 O SEPTEMBER 2014
ANY LEFTOVERS? MAKE THESE . . .Spinach and risoto-stuffed tomatoes45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT LUNCH | EASY | VEGETARIAN
spinach 200g, chopped
tomatoes 8, try to get different colours and sizes
cooked risotto 200g (see recipe left)
pine nuts 2 tbsp of toasted
parmesan or Grana Padano grated to finish
• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Put the spinach
in a colander and pour over a kettleful of water. Leave to cool,
then squeeze out any excess water. Season really well.
• Cut the tops off the tomatoes but keep them (you can leave the
stalks on, too, if you like).
• Scoop the seeds out of the tomatoes and discard them. Divide
the spinach between the tomato cavities.
• Mix the pine nuts into the risotto and spoon it into the tomatoes.
Top each one with some grated cheese, then sit the tops back on.
• Put the tomatoes in a baking tin or dish, drizzle with olive oil
and season. Bake for 20-25 minutes until the risotto is piping hot
and the tomatoes softened.
PER SERVING 144 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.3G | CARBS 11.8G | FAT 8G | SAT FAT 0.8G
FIBRE 3.8G | SALT 0.3G
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 43
cook weekend one recipe, two twists
Supplì al telefono30 MINUTES | MAKES 12 | EASYTraditionally, these are broken in two before eating, and the resulting
string of cheese stretching between the two halves is what gives them
the name, which literally means ‘telephone lines’
cooked risotto approx. 400g, chilled in the fridge until firmed up
mozzarella 1 ball, cut into small cubes
flour for dusting
eggs 2, beaten
dried breadcrumbs 100g
• Mash the squash pieces into the risotto using the back of a fork to make
a more even consistency. Using dampened hands, mould the risotto into
12 balls, pushing a piece of mozzarella into the middle of each as you
shape them. Put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs on separate plates. Roll
the balls first in the flour, then in the egg, then coat them with breadcrumbs
and chill for 20 minutes.
• Fill a deep pan no more than 1/3 full with oil and heat until the
temperature reaches 180C, or until a piece of bread dropped in the oil
turns golden in about 45 seconds. Cook the risotto balls a few at a time
for several minutes, turning them carefully, until golden and crisp. Drain
on kitchen paper and sprinkle with sea salt to serve.
PER SUPPLI 142 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.8G | CARBS 11.1G | FAT 8.6G | SAT FAT 2.6G
FIBRE 0.3G | SALT 0.3G
Wine match Perfect with creamy risotto dishes, Mestizo Viognier Marsanne 2013, Rapel Valley,
Chile, 13% (£9.99 Marks and Spencer) has apricot and spiced pear notes with a rounded,
food-friendly finish.
44 O SEPTEMBER 2014
MAKE THE BEST-EVER CHILLIHot and smoky beef chilli3½ HOURS + SOAKING TIME | SERVES 10 | EASY
dried pinto beans 250g, soaked overnight
olive oil
onions 2 large, peeled and chopped
garlic 3 cloves, crushed
green chillies 2, seeded and finely chopped
beef shin 1kg, trimmed and cubed
tomato purée 4 tbsp
chipotles in adobo sauce 4, or 3 tbsp chipotle paste
ground cumin 1 tsp
medium chilli powder 2 tsp
cinnamon stick 1
dried oregano ½ tsp
chicken stock 800ml
malt vinegar 2 tbsp
dark muscovado sugar 2 tbsp
TO SERVE
cooked rice
guacamole
grated cheddar
• Put the soaked beans in a pan with enough cold water to cover
them, bring to a boil and cook for 30 minutes, then drain and rinse.
• Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large, wide, flameproof casserole, then add the
onions and cook until golden and softened. Add the garlic and chilli
and cook for another minute. Scoop the mixture onto a plate.
• Heat another tbsp of oil in the pan and brown the beef in batches,
scooping out each batch as you go. Return the beef and the onion
mixture to the pan, then add the tomato purée, chipotle, spices and
dried oregano. Cook for 1 minute, then add the stock, vinegar, sugar
and beans.
• Heat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3. Season the chilli, stir it well
and bring to the boil. Cover with a tight-fitting lid (put a couple of sheets
of foil between the dish and the lid for a really tight seal if you like).
Transfer to the oven for 2½ -3 hours, or until the meat is really tender.
Serve bowls of chilli with rice, guacamole and grated cheddar.
PER SERVING 314 KCALS | PROTEIN 28.7G | CARBS 22.8G | FAT 11.7G | SAT FAT 3.8G
FIBRE 1.6G | SALT 0.5G
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 45
cook weekend one recipe, two twists
Hot and smoky
beef chilli
page 44
Huevos rancheros15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
small corn tortillas 4
oil
smoky beef chilli 250g, reheated
eggs 2, fried just before serving
SALSA
plum tomato 1, finely chopped
green chillies 2, finely chopped
coriander a handful of leaves, chopped
lime 1, juiced
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Brush the tortillas with
oil and cook in the oven until crisp and golden. Make the salsa by
combining all the ingredients in bowl. Layer the tortillas (2 for each
serving) with the hot chilli, then top with the fried eggs and spoon
over the salsa.
PER SERVING 447 KCALS | PROTEIN 33.1G | CARBS 20.8G | FAT 25.1G | SAT FAT 7.1G
FIBRE 2.6G | SALT 0.8G
Wine match Match the big flavours in these beef chilli dishes with the chunky, ripe damson and spice
flavours in P15 Malbec 2013, Patagonia, Argentina, 14% (£11.99, Majestic Wine).
46 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook weekend
one recipe, two twists
ANY LEFTOVERS? MAKE THESE . . .Tamale pie1 HOUR | SERVES 6 | EASY
smoky beef chilli 750g (see recipe page 44)
polenta 225g
plain flour 150g
caster sugar 1 tbsp
baking powder 1 tbsp
salt 1 tsp
eggs 2
whole milk 150ml
butter 70g, melted
pickled jalepeños 6 pieces, chopped
coriander ½ small bunch, chopped
cheddar 200g, grated
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160/gas 4. Put the beef chilli in the
bottom of a large ovenproof baking dish.
• Put the polenta, flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a bowl and
mix. Whisk the eggs, milk and butter together, then stir this into the dry
ingredients. Mix in most of the the jalepeños with the coriander and
¾ of the cheese.
• Spoon the polenta over the chilli, then scatter the top with the rest
of the cheese and jalepeños. Bake for 30-40 minutes until golden
and piping hot.
PER SERVING 669 KCALS | PROTEIN 31.9G | CARBS 63.9G | FAT 31.1G | SAT FAT 16.6G
FIBRE 2.6G | SALT 2.8G
RELISH THE ACTIONT e Ascot Festival ofFood and Wine Raceday
Saturday 6th September
Tickets from £20 per person
Fine Dining from £145 per person +VAT
Visit ascot.co.uk to book
Savour the fi nest fare from local farmers’ markets and
sample a selection of excellent wines from around the
world. Celebrity Chef James Martin will be giving a cooking
demonstration and designing an exclusive menu for our
new restaurant, On 5. And with seven exciting Flat races at
this historic racecourse it’s sure to be a memorable day out.
Crab claw gumbo with
fiery pepper rouille
page 48
Grey mullet soup with harissa
page 52
48 O SEPTEMBER 2014
PLENTY MORE FISHRick Stein uses old favourites and some more unusual fish to create six new exclusive recipes Recipes RICK STEIN Photographs JAMES MURPHY
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Hot pollack slices in a wrap with bok choi, beansprouts, garlic and ginger30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Alternatively, use any
cheap, sustainable fish,
such as coley, hake,
or whiting.
couscous 90g
pollack fillet 400g,
cut into 1cm slices
vegetable oil
garlic 3 cloves,
crushed
ginger 15g, grated
flour tortilla
wraps 4 x 20cm
diameter
bok choi or salad
cabbage 60g,
thinly sliced
beansprouts
60g, blanched
spring onions 8,
sliced diagonally
coriander a small
bunch, roughly
chopped
Tabasco sauce or
sriracha ½ tsp
soy sauce ½ tsp
• Put the couscous in a
shallow bowl. Season the fish
lightly with salt and turn over in
the couscous, then gently fry in
a shallow pan with 6 tbsp vegetable
oil for 3 minutes. Remove the fish to
a plate, add the garlic and ginger to
the pan and fry with the residual couscous
for 1-2 minutes.
• To warm the tortillas, put on a hot,
dry frying pan, or under a hot grill, for
approximately 6 seconds on each side. Put the
fish in the centre of each of the wraps. Sprinkle
with bok choi and beansprouts, then spoon
over the garlic, ginger, couscous and oil from
the pan. Cover with the spring onions and
coriander, then drizzle over the Tabasco and
soy sauce. Fold up the wraps and serve.
cook weekend
rick stein’s fsh
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 49
50 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Swordfish passanda with chilli, almonds, yoghurt
and cardamon page 52
Clams with XO sauce, spring onions and coriander page 52
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 51
cook weekend
rick stein’s fish
52 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Swordfish passanda with chilli, almonds, yoghurt and cardamom30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
This take on a mild north Indian dish has been
designed for serving at a drinks party, either
on cocktail sticks or on quarters of small
poppadoms puffed up in the microwave.
Swordfish works well because it is firm-
textured, but so does John Dory, leatherjacket,
monkfish, prawns, squid or triggerfish.
cinnamon stick 3cm
cardamom pods 2, seeds removed
and outer shell discarded
coriander seeds 1 tsp
vegetable oil 3 tbsp
onion 1 small, grated
garlic 3 cloves, grated
ginger 20g, grated
turmeric powder ½ tsp
chilli powder ½ tsp, such as kashmiri
yoghurt 20g
tomatoes 400g, chopped
ground almonds 2 tbsp
sugar ½ tsp
swordfish fillet 500g, cut into 2cm cubes
TO SERVE
coriander a handful, chopped
poppadoms (optional)
• Grind the cinnamon, cardamom and
coriander seeds in a spice grinder.
• Heat the oil, add the onion, garlic and
ginger, and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add
the freshly-ground spices, the turmeric and
chilli, stir for 30 seconds, then add the
yoghurt, tomatoes, almonds, 1 tsp salt, sugar
and 50ml water.
• Simmer until reduced by three-quarters, then
gently stir in the fish and cook for 3-4 minutes.
The sauce should be coating the fish well.
Sprinkle with coriander and serve with cocktail
sticks or on pieces of poppadom.
Grey mullet soup with harissa, spring onions and Pink Fir Apple potatoes50 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Although I’ve called this a soup, it’s more like
fish with lots of sauce. The soup can be made
with shop-bought harissa, but add saffron in
that case. You can use any medium-oily fish,
such as red mullet, sea bass or snapper.
whole grey mullet 1kg
olive oil 90ml
onion 1 medium, sliced
carrot 1, sliced
celery 1 stick, sliced
garlic ½ bulb, sliced but not peeled
harissa 1 tbsp
chopped tomatoes 400g, fresh or tinned
tomato purée 2 tbsp
saffron threads a pinch (if using
shop-bought harissa)
orange peel 1 strip
Pink Fir Apple potatoes 300g,
or other small waxy potatoes, peeled
and sliced lengthways
spring onions 10, sliced diagonally
parsley a small bunch, finely chopped
aïoli (garlic mayo) to serve
• Scale, gut and fillet the fish (or get your
fish monger to do it). Cut the fillets into
2cm-wide slices.
• Use the head and bones to make a stock:
heat half the olive oil in a pan. Add the onion,
carrot, celery and garlic and all the fish
trimmings. Fry for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the harissa, tomatoes, tomato purée,
saffron (if using), orange peel, 1.5 litres of
water and season.
• Bring to the boil and simmer for half an
hour. Pass through a fine strainer, pressing
through as much of the stock using the back of
a ladle as possible. Discard the solids. Return
the stock to the heat and reduce by half.
• Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender.
Heat a frying pan with the remaining oil and
cook the fillets skin-side down over a moderate
heat for 6-7 minutes.
• Put the mullet, potatoes and spring onions
into 4 warmed, wide soup bowls, sprinkle on
the parsley, pour the soup gently on top and
add a dollop of aïoli.
Clams with XO sauce, spring onions and coriander20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY
XO sauce is a spicy seafood sauce commonly
used in southern China, and becoming
increasingly available in the West. If the clams
are straight out of the water they will produce
a lot of liquid when they open. In this case,
scoop out the clams and reduce the liquid
by rapid boiling, then return the clams to the
reduced sauce. Buy XO sauce and fermented
black beans from Asian supermarkets or online
at souschef.co.uk.
oil
ginger 30g, grated
garlic 4 cloves, crushed
red chilli 1, thinly sliced (seeds removed
if you want less heat)
fermented black beans 1 tsp, chopped
sugar 1 tsp
XO sauce 2 tbsp
fresh clams 1.5kg, washed in cold water
Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry 2 tbsp
soy sauce 1 tbsp
cornflour 1 tbsp, slaked with a little water
spring onions 6, sliced
coriander a handful, roughly chopped
• Heat 3 tbsp of oil in a wok over a high heat.
Add the ginger, garlic, chilli, black beans,
sugar and XO sauce and cook for 1-2 minutes.
• Add the clams, Shaoxing wine and soy
sauce, cover with a lid and cook over a high
heat for 2 minutes, shaking the pan a couple
of times. Check to see the clams are opened,
then stir in enough of the cornflour to thicken
the sauce to coat the back of a spoon.
• Add the spring onions and coriander, toss
a few times and serve.
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cook weekend
rick stein’s fsh
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 53
Grilled miso salmon with rice noodles, spring onions and beansprouts page 54
54 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook weekend
rick stein’s fish
Pan-fried mackerel fillets, hot pickled slaw and fried capers30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | EASYThis is my son Jack’s recipe. It’s an Asian
version of escabeche, the way of cooking oily
fish with vinegar to preserve them and cut the
oily richness. Here the flavours of dashi and
star anise predominate. Use a non-stick pan
to fry the mackerel as the skin is thin. You can
also use herring, horse mackerel or sardines.
mackerel fillets 4
rice wine vinegar or white wine
vinegar 75ml
dashi granules or powder ½ tsp
(buy from souschef.co.uk)
oil
capers 1 tsp
chervil or parsley a few sprigs
butter 10g
SLAW
carrot 50g, finely sliced into rounds
shallot 25g, finely sliced into rounds
juniper berries 2
black peppercorns 2
star anise 1
thyme a sprig
chilli flakes a pinch
• Sprinkle the flesh side of the mackerel with
½ teaspoon of salt and leave for 5 minutes.
Combine the vinegar, 50ml water and dashi
granules in a bowl.
• Wash the salt off the mackerel and lay them
on a plate, skin-side up. Pour over the pickling
liquid so that it covers the flesh side but does
not completely submerge the fillets (discard the
rest). Leave to pickle for 10 minutes, then
remove and pat dry, reserving the liquid.
• Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan and fry the
capers until crispy.
• For the slaw, put the carrot and shallot in
a pan with the juniper berries, peppercorns,
star anise, thyme, chilli and a good pinch
of salt. Pour the reserved pickling liquid over
the slaw, bring to the boil, take off the heat
and leave to cool.
• Heat a frying pan and brush with a thin film
of oil. Fry the mackerel fillets skin-side down
over a moderate heat for 1½-2 minutes.
• Assemble the mackerel on a serving dish
with the warm pickled vegetables and all the
spices. Sprinkle with the capers and the chervil
or parsley. Deglaze the frying pan with the
pickling liquor left from the veg, add the butter,
reduce briefly, and spoon around the edge.
Grilled miso salmon with rice noodles, spring onions and beansprouts20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASYThis recipe works best with steaks of large oily
fish. The fish should be grilled medium rare:
to about 50C in the centre, measured using
a temperature probe is best. The recipe also
works well with kingfish or tuna.
salmon steaks 4 x 150g fillets
vegetable oil 50ml
garlic 3 cloves, crushed
ginger 20g, grated
spring onions 8, sliced
red chilli 1 medium, thinly sliced
rice noodles 200g, boiled for 3 minutes
and drained
beansprouts 100g, blanched
coriander a small bunch, chopped
fish sauce 1 tbsp
MISO GLAZE
red miso paste 10g
balsamic vinegar 2 tsp
soy sauce 2 tsp
hot smoked paprika 1 tsp
• Mix the ingredients for the miso glaze and
use to brush the fish steaks. Put the steaks on
an oiled grilling tray. Turn on the grill.
• Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the garlic,
ginger, spring onions and chilli for a couple
of minutes, then add the noodles, beansprouts
and coriander.
• Grill the fish steaks for about 5 minutes,
turning once. Stir the fish sauce into the
stir-fried vegetables, then arrange on plates
and top with the fish to serve.
Extracted from Rick Stein’s Fish &
Shellfish (£25, BBC Books). © Rick
Stein 2001, 2014. Photography ©
James Murphy, 2014.
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SEPTEMBER 2014 O 55
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For more information go to: visitguernsey.com/dining
Stay:Guernsey Self CateringT: +44 (0) 1481 237491 W: SELFCATERING.CO.GG
Self-Catering cottages and
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& shops. ‘The Warmest
of Welcomes Awaits You!’
HOTEL SELF-CATERINGAVAILABLE&
our specials are extra special.
Here on Guernsey,
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 57
All the hard work is done before your guests arrive with this entirely
make-ahead menu from new opening Villiers
Recipes SOPHIE GORDON Photographs MING TANG-EVANS
Salt-baked beetroot salad with goat’s curd and smoked
anchovy•
Confit duck
Hispi cabbage and pumpkin gratin
•Blackberry
cheesecake with poached blackberries
MENU
MENUof the month
Ludo,
Sophie
and Rose
Gordon
58 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Confit duck 3½ HOURS + OVERNIGHT CURING | SERVES 4 | EASY
duck legs 4
coarse sea salt 200g
rosemary 1 bunch
lemon 1, cut into wedges
garlic 1 bulb, cloves separated
duck fat (vegetable oil can be used instead)
SALSA
tomatoes 2 ripe, peeled, seeded and diced
red onion ¼, finely diced
parsley 1 bunch, chopped
olive oil 2 tbsp
lemon ½, juiced
• Clean the duck legs of any excess skin
or fat, then put into a container with the salt,
rosemary, lemon and garlic. Toss everything
together, then cover and leave in the fridge for
a minimum of 12 hours.
• Wash the cure off the legs and pat dry with
a clean tea towel.
• Heat the oven to 140C/fan 120C/gas 1.
Melt enough duck fat (or warm enough oil) to
cover the legs in an ovenproof pan big enough
to fit them (but small enough to fit in the oven).
Put the legs in, cover with greaseproof paper
and bake in the oven for 3 hours. Once
cooked, remove the legs from the fat and either
finish in the oven (see next step) or keep in the
fridge until needed. (Keep the leftover duck fat
for roasting potatoes).
• To finish the duck, heat the oven to 200C/
fan 180C/gas 6. Put the duck legs, skin side
up, on a baking tray and cook in the oven for
15-20 minutes until golden, crisp and
thoroughly heated through.
• Mix the salsa ingredients together. Serve the
duck with the hispi cabbage and pumpkin gratin
(see page 56), with some salsa spooned over.
PER SERVING 474 KCALS | PROTEIN 43.2G | CARBS 2.4G
FAT 32.1G | SAT FAT 8.3G | FIBRE 1.3G | SALT 2.5
2½ HOURS | SERVES 4 | EASY
coarse sea salt 200g
beetroot 2 large
golden beetroot 2 large
hazelnuts 50g
smoked anchovies 12 fillets
(or normal salted)
goat's curd 200g (or use regular curd
cheese or a fresh goat’s cheese)
flat-leaf parsley a few leaves
PICKLED SHALLOTS
sea salt 1½ tsp
castersugar 3 tbsp
red wine vinegar 70ml
shallot 1, finely sliced
MUSTARD DRESSING
Dijon mustard ¾ tbsp
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
rapeseed oil 50ml
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
Make a bed of the sea salt on a small baking
tray, lay the whole beetroot on top and cook
in the oven for 1hr 45 minutes, or until cooked
through. Once cooked, allow the beetroot to
cool to room temperature and then put the
whole tray in the fridge.
• Roast the hazelnuts on a baking tray in the
oven for about 10 minutes, or until they have
browned, then allow to cool a little before
roughly chopping.
• For the pickled shallots, bring 120ml water,
the salt and sugar to the boil, then remove from
the heat. Add the vinegar and the shallots. Allow
to cool, then leave in the fridge until needed.
• For the mustard dressing, whisk the mustard
and vinegar together, then slowly add the
rapeseed oil, whisking vigorously. Leave in the
fridge until needed.
• Peel away the beetroot skin using your
fingers rather than a knife, to keep the shape
smooth and round. Slice into 1-1½cm rounds.
Layer about 5 pieces of beetroot in a circle,
depending on size, alternating the golden and
red. Scatter some slices of shallot over. Curl
3 anchovies per plate and put on top of the
beetroot. Dollop spoonfuls of curd over the
plates, sprinkle with hazelnuts, drizzle with the
mustard dressing and scatter with a few
parsley leaves.
PER SERVING 497 KCALS | PROTEIN 19.6G | CARBS 19.9G
FAT 36.8G | SAT FAT 11.6G | FIBRE 3.7G | SALT 3.1
Salt-baked beetroot salad with goat’s curd and smoked anchovy
FOR A VIDEO RECIPE OF THIS DISH,
GET THE APPSee page 67
Opened by Sophie and Rose
Gordon, with their brother
Ludo working front-of-house,
Villiers is a new all-day dining
restaurant and coffee company on London’s
Embankment. Their family has been
running the legendary Gordon’s Wine Bar,
on the same street, for decades. The evening
menu offers dishes such as truffled baked
egg and soldiers, harissa-baked mackerel
and a classic rib-eye steak and chips.
villiersallday.co.uk
Confit duck with hispi cabbage
and pumpkin gratin
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 59
cook weekend food for friends
60 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook weekend food for friends
Wine matchesVilliers serves Domaine Félines Jourdan Picpoul de
Pinet 2012 with the salt-baked beetroot salad, Maison Roche
de Bellene Pinot Noir 2011, Burgundy or Chateau La
Croix Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, St Estephe Bordeaux
with the confit duck and hispi cabbage and Alpamanta Natal
Mabec 2010, Mendoza with the blackberry cheesecake.
Hispi cabbage and pumpkin gratin1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
hispi or pointed cabbage ½
leek 1
diced pancetta 150g
olive oil
white wine a splash
pumpkin or squash 500g, peeled, seeds
removed and cut into 1cm cubes
double cream 75ml
parmesan 40g
panko breadcrumbs 30g
pumpkin seeds 20g
• Heat the oven to 150C/fan 130C/gas 2.
Remove the outer leaves from the cabbage,
cut in half, cut out and discard the hard core,
then slice the cabbage as thinly as possible.
Using only the white of the leek, halve
lengthways and slice thinly.
• In a large, shallow frying pan, fry the
pancetta with a splash of oil on a medium/
high heat until golden brown. Add the leek
and cabbage and cook for a further 2 minutes,
stirring regularly.
• Add the white wine. Let the alcohol cook out
(about 2 minutes) before adding the pumpkin or
squash, double cream and parmesan. Continue
to cook, reducing the liquid by a third.
• Season and transfer to a baking tray and
bake for 30 minutes. Once cooked, allow to
cool, then cover and keep in the fridge until
needed. Before serving, sprinkle with
breadcrumbs and pumpkin seeds, drizzle with
olive oil and bake for 20 minutes, or until
golden brown, at 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
PER SERVING 410 KCALS | PROTEIN 16.5G | CARBS 20.1G
FAT 27.7G | SAT FAT 12.8G | FIBRE 6.5G | SALT 1.4
40 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 8-10 | EASY
Hobnobs 175g
butter 60g, softened
FILLING
double cream 450g
golden caster sugar 550g
lime 1, juiced
full-fat soft cheese 400g
blackberries 400g
• Heat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3.
Crumble the biscuits by hand and combine
with the soft butter. Press the biscuit mixture
down into a 20-22cm cake tin. Bake for
10 minutes, then allow to cool.
• Whip the double cream with 150g of caster
sugar and 5 drops of lime juice. In a separate
bowl, beat the cream cheese with a wooden
spoon until soft and creamy, then fold into the
whipped cream. Using your fingers, squish
about 8 or 9 blackberries into the mix and
fold everything together.
• Transfer the mixture onto the biscuit base.
Lightly bang the cake tin down onto the work
surface a few times – this will get rid of any
unwanted air bubbles. Press and smooth out
the top of the cake using cling film, then leave
to set in the fridge for at least an hour.
• Put the rest of the sugar and 200ml of
water in a pan and heat until dissolved, then
bring to the boil. Add the remainder of the
blackberries and bring back to the boil.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool to
room temperature.
• Remove the cheesecake from the fridge
and, remembering to remove the clingfilm,
evenly scatter the blackberries over the top,
then drizzle over about 4 tbsp of the cooking
syrup. (Serve the rest of the syrup with the
cheesecake if you like.) Chill overnight.
PER SERVING 562 KCALS | PROTEIN 5.3G | CARBS 31.5G
FAT 45.5G | SAT FAT 27.2G | FIBRE 2.6G | SALT 0.5
Blackberry cheesecake with poached blackberries
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62 O SEPTEMBER 2014
for the recipe so I used
the rest for ribs later
on in the week. The
chilli filling was
really simple to make
– my only criticism
is that there was no
chilli in the recipe
(easily corrected
with a hefy shake
of chilli sauce).
Was it worth the
extra effort?
A definite 'yes'.
Every month O scours new cookery books for exciting recipes to make when there’s plenty of time to shop and cook.
Are you feeling adventurous?Recipe STÉPHANE REYNAUD Photograph MARIE-PIERRE MOREL
Labour of love
Chilli1½ HOURS + RISING AND PROVING TIME | MAKES 4
A LITTLE EFFORT
smoked bacon 1 slice, finely chopped
tinned kidney beans 100g, rinsed
and drained
barbecue sauce 2 tbsp (see below)
tomato purée 1 tsp
veal sausages 4
piquillo peppers 5, cut into strips
cheddar 100g, finely diced
milk buns 4 (see below)
MILK BUNS
fast-action yeast 7g sachet
lukewarm milk 200-250ml
strong white flour 400g
caster sugar 1 tbsp
egg yolk 1, lightly beaten
BBQ SAUCE
onions 2, finely chopped
garlic 4 cloves, finely chopped
olive oil 2 tbsp
tomato purée 3 tbsp
tomato ketchup 3 tbsp
Remember when you could
only buy hot dogs in tins?
Things have improved a lot
since then and on trend
restaurants and street food vendors (like
Hawksmoor and Big Apple Hot Dogs)
have embraced the idea of a quality hot
dog. I love a tarted-up dog, and this book
has over 40 of them. You won't be making
sausages – it takes 12 different types (like
the morteau, Vienna and classic frank)
Other recipes to try
• Patate (merguez, potato,
pine nuts, curry sauce)
• Doubce (montbéliard, dry
cured ham, comte, shallots)
• Viva (cervelat, artichokes,
rocket, basil, mozzarella)
mild mustard 1 tbsp
Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp
wine vinegar 2 tbsp
white wine 100ml
vegetable stock 100ml
molasses 1 tbsp
• To make the buns, add the yeast to the
lukewarm milk. Combine the flour, 1 tsp salt,
sugar and the yeasty milk and knead until
smooth and elastic, then form into a compact
ball. Cover with a warm, damp cloth and let
the dough rise for 1 hour at room temperature.
• Punch the air out of the dough, divide into
6 rolls of equal size and put these on a baking
tray lined with baking paper. Cover with a
warm, damp cloth and let them rise again
at room temperature for 1 hour.
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/Gas 4.
Glaze the buns with egg yolk. To get the
points, cut along the length of the bun with
the tip of sharp scissors at intervals. Bake for
15 minutes, or until golden.
• To make the BBQ sauce, cook the onion
and garlic in the olive oil over a low heat until
TESTED BY Janine Ratcliffe
softened. Add the remaining ingredients and
cook for 45 minutes. Purée the mixture in
a blender or food processor and store in
the refrigerator.
• Fry the bacon for 2 minutes, then add the
kidney beans, 2 tbsp of the barbecue sauce
and the tomato purée and a splash of water
and cook the mixture for about 5 minutes.
• Re-warm the buns in a hot oven for 5
minutes. Cook the sausages following pack
instructions. Fill the buns with the kidney bean
mixture, sausages, piquillo peppers and
cheddar and serve.
as the base and gives recipes for the buns,
relishes, sauces and extras for a gourmet
twist. I went for the ‘chilli’.
I loved making the milk buns. I don’t
do much bread making, but these were
so simple and the milk gave the finished
buns a sof, chewy texture, which didn’t
disintegrate with the sauce (a major fault
of most bought buns). The recipe didn’t say
how to make the litle dinosaur ridges on
top, so I just snipped along the proven buns
with scissors. I couldn't find veal sausages,
so I used beef frankfurters instead. The
BBQ sauce was sharp, sweet and well
balanced – it makes more than you need
Gourmet hot dogs
Recipe adapted from Stéphane Reynaud’s Gourmet Hot Dogs
(£14.99, Murdoch Books)
JANINE'S VERSION
cook weekend
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 63
64 O SEPTEMBER 2014
RIO DE JANEIROCook like a local
From simple grilled fish to salt cod fritters and caipirinhas, Brazil’s Portuguese-influenced cooking is best sampled on the beach
Words and recipes LETICIA MOREINOS SCHWARTZ
Photographs KATE SEARS
K eep the beach as your point of reference and you’ll find it hard to get
disoriented in Rio – particularly when it comes to eating. Many of the
city’s most popular foods, especially petiscos (Brazilian tapas) are sold
alongside the sand. Veer away from the shore, however, and you’ll
discover that one of the great joys of visiting Brazil’s second-largest city is to wander
through its different neighbourhoods, losing yourself in their individual characters
and tasting your way around the recipes that originated there.
I grew up in the Zona Sul area of the city – home to Ipanema, Copacabana and Leblon
beaches. Eating here is casual, with typical food and drink, such as cod friters and
caipirinhas (the classic Brazilian cocktail), bearing testament to the waves of
immigrants who moved to Brazil from Portugal in the 18th and 19th centuries.
For an insight into Rio’s food heritage, it’s also worth browsing its many food markets.
The best of these include the fish market in Niterói (Rua Visconde do Rio Branco 55)
and city markets Feira de São Cristovão (feiradesaocristovao.org.br) and Cadeg (cadeg.
com.br) in Benfica. These are some of the most enlightening, energising and generous
places in the world. If you have time, take a trip to Búzios, a beach resort three hours’
drive from Rio. Tastes are more conservative here and there’s less foreign influence.
This is the place to go if you want to feast on simple grilled fish, salads and fresh juices.
65 O JULY 2014SEPTEMBER 2014 O 65
cook weekend cook like a local
MENU
DECODER
Know what to order whether
you’re in Rio or Reading
Risole de camarao com catupiry
A fried turnover filled with prawns
and Catupiry, a Brazilian brand of
cream cheese.
Brigadeiro
Apparently named after brigadier, Eduardo
Gomes, this is a classic Brazilian sweet,
a kind of chocolate truffle.
Bolinho de Feijoada The classic Feijoada black bean stew
reinvented as small fritters – the perfect
snack to serve with a caipirinha.
Pao de queijo Small cheese buns the size of golf balls –
these are best eaten warm, straight from
the oven.
Empadinha de queijo A baked cheese turnover. In Brazil
these are made with local minas cheese,
but drained cottage cheese is a
good substitute.
Bolinho de bacalhau Delicious morsels of shredded salt cod are
mixed with mashed potatoes then crumbed
and fried to form fritters. Eat them hot and
crisp with a beer on the side.
Roasted garlic-ginger prawns with coconut and fresh herb crumbs (camarão assado aos sabores do Brazil)30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
oil
garlic 4 cloves, very finely chopped
ginger grated to make 1 tbsp
spring onion 1, finely chopped
parsley chopped to make 1 tbsp
coriander chopped to make 1 tbsp
jalapeño pepper finely chopped
to make ½ tsp
raw large king prawns 500g, peeled
dry white wine 65ml
HERB CRUMB
oil
toasted manioc flour (farinha de mandioca
fina) or dried breadcrumbs 45g
desiccated coconut 15g
parsley chopped to make 1 tbsp
coriander chopped to make 1 tbsp
• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5.
Combine 2 tbsp oil with the garlic, ginger,
spring onion, parsley, coriander, jalapeño,
and season. Add the prawns and toss
everything together, then cover and chill
for 10 minutes.
• To make the herb crumb, combine 2 tbsp
oil with the manioc flour, coconut, parsley,
coriander and season.
• Lightly oil a baking dish. Lay each prawn
in the dish with the back-side flat like a book
and the tail end standing straight up. Pour
in the wine, then sprinkle the crumb mixture
loosely over the prawns. Roast for 12-15
minutes, or until the prawns turn pink and the
crumbs are golden. Serve immediately.
TRUST O Chef Leticia Moreinos
Schwartz (chefleticia.
com) was born in
Rio and studied at
The French Culinary
Institute in New York.
Now a food writer, her features have
appeared in The New York Times.
This is her second Brazilian cookbook.
66 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook weekend cook like a local
TO SEE LETICIA MAKE BRIGADEIRO CAKE, GET THE APP!
See page 67
Roasted leg of lamb with mint chimichurri4 HOURS 30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 6–8 | EASY
leg of lamb 1 bone-in, approx 2.25–2.75kg
garlic cloves 10, peeled
onion 4, quartered
bay leaves 6
white wine 250ml
olive oil
MINT CHIMICHURRI
garlic 1 clove, peeled
mint a bunch
white wine vinegar 60ml
olive oil
• Season the lamb generously with salt and
pepper, then tie with kitchen string at 2.5cm
intervals. Using a paring knife, make 10 deep
incisions in the meatiest parts of the lamb, bury
the garlic cloves in the incisions and pinch the
meat closed around each clove. Put in a large
zip-seal freezer bag with the onions, bay
leaves, wine and 250ml olive oil, seal the bag
and marinate for 24 hours in the fridge. Bring
the lamb to room temperature for 1 hour
before roasting.
• Heat the oven to 230C/fan 210C/gas 8.
Put the leg of lamb in a roasting tin and pour
the marinade on top; reserve the onion pieces
in a bowl. Roast for 30 minutes, then lower the
oven temperature to 150C/fan 130C/gas 2
and continue roasting, basting every hour, until
the meat is pulling away from the bone. After
the second hour, scatter the onions around the
meat and continue roasting. Check the meat
with a fork; it should easily pull after about 4
hours. If not, return the lamb to the oven and
continue to cook until it is.
• Remove the lamb from the oven and leave
to rest for 20 minutes on a carving board.
• To make the chimichurri, put the garlic, mint
and vinegar in a food processor. With the
machine running, slowly add 125ml olive oil
in a steady stream until well blended and
season. Pour the juices from the carving board
and roasting tin back over the lamb. Carve
the lamb from the bone and serve with the
chimichurri alongside.
Molten brigadeiro cake (bolinho quente de brigadeiro)30 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
unsalted butter 115g, plus extra
for the tins
plain flour 40g, sifted, plus extra
for the tins
condensed milk 400g tin
cocoa powder 1 tsp
(70%) dark chocolate 60g, chopped
eggs 2
egg yolks 2
salt 1/8 tsp
sugar 1 tbsp
vanilla extract 1 tsp
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas
4. Butter and flour 6 individual foil cups
or metal pudding basins.
• Combine the condensed milk, cocoa and
chocolate in a medium heavy saucepan and
bring to the boil over a medium heat, whisking
constantly. When the mixture begins to bubble
and the chocolate melts, reduce the heat to low
and continue whisking for a further 3-5 minutes
until the mixture has thickened like fudge. Put
the mixture into a large bowl without scraping
it, as you don’t want to incorporate any of the
thick residue that might have caught on the
base of the pan.
• Melt 115g of butter in a separate medium
saucepan over a low heat, then pour the butter
into the chocolate mixture and whisk vigorously
Recipes adapted from Rio De Janeiro The Cookbook,
by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz. (19.99, Kyle Books)
until smooth. At first it will
curdle and break, and you
will think this recipe cannot
possibly work; don’t despair, and keep
whisking constantly until the mixture comes
together again.
• Beat together the eggs, yolks, salt, sugar and
vanilla in a separate bowl and add it to the
chocolate mixture, whisking until incorporated.
• Add 40g of flour and mix it in with a rubber
spatula until just blended.
• Pour the cake mixture into the prepared foil
cups, filling them to about 6mm from the top.
You can prepare the recipe up to this point,
cover and chill for up to 5 days; bring to room
temperature before baking.
• Bake for 9-12 minutes, or until the edges are
firm but the center is still soft. Serve with ice
cream (pistachio, ginger, coconut and vanilla
are all work well with this dessert).
The Palomar
cook weekend
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 69
Just off Piccadilly Circus, with room
for 16 at a zinc counter and a few
tables in the back, the Palomar is
buzzy and fun, a collaboration
between chefs from Jerusalem’s Machneyuda
restaurant including Tomer Amedi (above), and
Zoe and Layo Paskin, siblings behind London
nightclub The End. No surprise then that the
music’s loud, and the staff are upbeat.
The Palomar’s menu is a mix of Jewish,
Arabic and Mediterranean influences. The ‘raw
bar’ offers kubenia – chopped beef fillet with
bulgar, tahini and pine nuts, £8.50, and
fatoush salad with labneh, £8. Mains of polenta
with asparagus and mushroom ragout, £9, and
onglet with latkes and a fried egg, £14, tear up
the rulebook to delicious effect. The shakshukit
takes apart the traditional kebab and lashes it
with chilli, lemon, tahini, garlic, tapenade,
pesto and amba. Cocktails include The Adonis
(manzanilla sherry, Carpano Antica Formula
and orange biters). thepalomar.co.uk
A deconstructed kebab full of punchy Mediterranean flavours
Words SOPHIE DENING Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
The Palomar’s shakshukit 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
onion 1, diced
pistachios 1 tbsp
pine nuts 1½ tsp
oil
ground cumin 1 tsp
paprika 1 tsp
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
minced beef 50g
minced lamb 250g
amba ½ tsp (israelifooddirect.com
or use a good-quality mango chutney)
turmeric ¼ tsp
DO TRY THIS AT HOME
cured lemon paste ½ tsp (or scoop
the pulp from preserved lemons and blend
to a paste)
rose harissa paste 1 tbsp
TAHINI YOGHURT
tahini 115ml
natural yoghurt 350ml
TO SERVE
rose harissa paste 1 tsp
cured lemon paste 2 tbsp (see above)
tapenade 2 tbsp
pesto 2 tbsp
tahini 2 tbsp
natural yoghurt 2 tbsp
pitta breads 4, toasted
• Fry the onion, pistachios and pine nuts in
a little oil for a few minutes until the onion
is golden. Stir in the cumin and paprika, then
season. Add the garlic and fry for two minutes,
then add the beef and lamb and fry for another
five minutes until browned. Add the amba,
turmeric, cured lemon paste and rose harissa,
and fry for two minutes.
• Mix the tahini and natural yoghurt and
season with salt. Spoon the tahini yoghurt into
four shallow bowls, divide the hot beef and
lamb mixture on top, and add a few of the
toppings, then serve with pitta breads.
PER SERVING 470 KCALS | PROTEIN 27.4G | CARBS 11.2G
FAT 34.1G | SAT FAT 9.2G | FIBRE 4.3G | SALT 0.4G
FOR A COCKTAIL VIDEO RECIPE AND MORE
PHOTOS, GET THE APP
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70 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Make ice cream from scratch with step-by-
step help from O’s test kitchen
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photographs ANT DUNCAN
Pecan praline ice cream40 MINUTES + CHURNING AND FREEZING | SERVES 6 | A LITTLE EFFORT
whole milk 200ml
caster sugar 150g
vanilla pod 1, split and seeds scraped out
double cream 600ml carton, well chilled
egg yolks 6 (freeze the whites for meringues)
PECAN PRALINE
caster sugar 200g
pecans 75g
1 To make the praline, put the sugar in
a frying pan (silver is best so you can see
the caramel colour change) and add 3 tbsp
water. Heat gently until the sugar dissolves
into a clear liquid.
2 Turn up the heat and boil until the mixture
becomes a golden caramel. The edges will
start to darken first and you’ll smell caramel.
3 Drop in the nuts and swirl around to coat.
4 Quickly pour onto a lightly oiled baking
sheet then leave to cool.
To make the ice cream, put the milk and vanilla
pod in a pan with a pinch of salt and heat until
just boiling. Take off the heat and leave to cool
so the vanilla infuses.
5, 6 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together
in a bowl until pale..Reheat the milk and slowly
whisk into the eggs, leaving the vanilla behind.
7 Pour back into a clean pan, put over a low
heat and stir until the custard is thick enough
to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Keep
stirring and don’t let it overheat or you’ll end
up with scrambled eggs. It should take around
8-10 minutes.
8 Pour the custard through a fine sieve into
the chilled cream and stir together. Pour into
an ice-cream maker and churn.
9 Break the praline into pieces then put in
a freezer bag and bash with a rolling pin. You
can go as fine or chunky as you like. Add to
the ice-cream when it’s softly churned. When
it’s fully churned spoon into a freezer proof
box and freeze until you need it.
PER SERVING 246KCAL | PROTEIN 1.8G | CARBS 16.9G
FAT 19G | SAT FAT 10G | FIBRE 0.3G | SALT 0G
Praline ice creamMake your own
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cook weekend the challenge
How did you get on? Share your photo on twitter, instagram or our
facebook page #Ochallenge – we’d love to see your results
@Omagazine O magazine Omagazine
Use a light coloured pan to make it easy to
see the caramel change colour
12 3
4
56
7
89
The benefi ts stack up!
Calories Fat
Sugars
Salt
Sat Fat
Visit www.rakusens.co.uk for stockists
✔ Low in fat, less than 2%
✔ Good source of fi bre
✔ Dairy free
✔ Lactose free
✔ Nut free
✔ Low in sugar
✔ Low in salt
Halloumi, tomato and
aubergine skewers
page 88
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 73
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Even when you're short of time, it’s possible to eat something fresh and imaginative midweek. Try one of our quick and easy suppers tonight
everydayCOOK
PORK CHOPS WITH APPLE SALSA | VIETNAMESE SUMMER ROLLS DOUBLE-CHEESE AND MUSHROOM CALZONES | GREEN GODDESS SALAD
74 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Cook seven satisfying meals for less than £35Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ADRIAN LAWRENCE
Janine’s cheap eats
Green goddess salad
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 75
butter
shallot 1 small, finely chopped
young spinach 200g, washed if needed
wholegrain mustard 2 tsp
sherry vinegar 1 tsp
sourdough 4 slices
eggs 2-4, fried
• Heat a pan with a knob of butter and add
the shallot. Cook until softened, then add the
TUESDAYSourdough with spinach, egg and mustard20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY.
cook everyday janine’s cheap eats
t’s good to have a couple of hearty
salads that you can rely on,
especially during the summer when
it’s too hot for elaborate cooking.
I’ve included two this month, both of which
will make a lighter afer-work meal but still
leave you feeling satisfied.
IMONDAYGreen goddess salad20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
This salad is named after the green herb
dressing. Very popular in the US during the 70s
– it’s now having a bit of a comeback.
quinoa 50g
peas 100g, blanched
lemon 2 tbsp juice
watercress 50g bag
avocado ½, sliced
smoked streaky bacon 4 slices,
grilled until crisp and golden
GREEN GODDESS DRESSING
spring onions 2, chopped including
the green bits
lemon ½, juiced
mayonnaise 2 tbsp
basil ¼ small bunch, chopped
chives ¼ small bunch, chopped
• Cook the quinoa following the pack
instructions, then rinse and drain really well.
Toss it with the peas, lemon and some seasoning.
• Whizz all the dressing ingredients to a
puree in a small food processor adding 2-3
tbsp water to loosen it (you want to be able
to drizzle it). Season.
• Arrange the quinoa, watercress and avocado
on plates. Drizzle over the dressing then crumble
over the bacon.
PER SERVING 483 KCALS | PROTEIN 18.3G | CARBS 20.1G
FAT 35.3G | SAT FAT 8.1G | FIBRE 6G | SALT 2GSTYLIN
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spinach with a tiny splash of water and heat
until just wilted. Stir in the mustard and sherry
vinegar and season.
• Toast the sourdough and spread with a little
more butter. Pile the spinach on top and finish
with the eggs.
PER SERVING 372 KCALS | PROTEIN 15.7G | CARBS 26.5G
FAT 21.7G | SAT FAT 9.7G | FIBRE 4.2G | SALT 1.7G
£3.55SERVES 2 FOR
£3.35SERVES 2 FOR
76 O SEPTEMBER 2014
golden sultanas 4 tbsp
olive oil 2 tbsp
sherry vinegar 1 tbsp
shallot 1 small, finely chopped
long stem broccoli 300g
halloumi ½ block, sliced
roasted red peppers 2 from
a jar, chopped
pine nuts 2 tbsp, toasted
WEDNESDAYBroccoli salad with peppers, pine nuts and halloumi30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
• Put the sultanas in a small bowl and pour over
enough boiling water from the kettle to cover
them. Leave for 10 minutes then drain well.
Whisk the oil and vinegar with some seasoning
and stir in the shallot and drained sultanas.
• Blanch the broccoli briefly in boiling water
then rinse in cold water and drain well.
• Dry-fry the halloumi on both sides until golden.
• Toss the broccoli, sultanas with the dressing
and pepper. Serve scattered with the pine nuts
and topped with halloumi.
PER SERVING 614 KCALS | PROTEIN 23.7G | CARBS 46G
FAT 35.7G | SAT FAT 12.6G | FIBRE 7.2G | SALT 2G
olive oil
aubergine 1 small, diced
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
chilli flakes a large pinch
chopped tomatoes 400g tin
rigatoni 200g
basil ½ a small bunch, shredded
pecorino grated to make 2 tbsp or a little
crumbled feta
• Heat 1-2 tbsp olive oil in a large non-stick
frying pan. Add the aubergine in batches
and fry on a fairly high heat until it softens
and turns golden (you want it very tender with
no hint of bounciness). Season and tip out onto
a plate.
• Wipe out the pan, then add another tbsp oil
and cook the garlic for a minute. Add the chilli
flakes and tomatoes and season, then simmer
for 10 minutes.
• Cook the pasta. Stir the basil and aubergine
into the sauce and simmer for 5 minutes. Toss
the sauce with the drained pasta and finish
with grated cheese and more basil if you like.
PER SERVING 531 KCALS | PROTEIN 19.9G | CARBS 64.8G
FAT 19.4G | SAT FAT 1.8G | FIBRE 8.8G | SALT 0.3G
THURSDAYPasta Norma 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
This Sicilian pasta is traditionally topped with
ricotta salata – it can be a bit tricky to find so
I use pecorino or feta to give a salty kick.
‘Make double of the broccoli salad – it keeps really well in the fridge’£6.08
SERVES 2 FOR
£2.85SERVES 2 FOR
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cook everyday great value mealscook everyday
janine’s cheap eats
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 77
Pasta Norma
78 O SEPTEMBER 2014
SATURDAYDouble-cheese and mushroom calzones45 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
ciabatta bread mix
or pizza base mix 250g
field mushrooms 3 large, sliced
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, crushed
mozzarella 1 ball, sliced
parmesan 2 tbsp of grated
rosemary a few needles, chopped
chilli flakes (optional)
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Make the dough following pack instructions.
Cook the mushrooms in a little olive oil until
tender then add the garlic, season and cook
for another 3 minutes, turning up the heat to
evaporate any water.
• Divide the dough in half and roll each piece
out into a rough circle, about 25cm across.
Divide the mushrooms and mozzarella
between them heaping the mixture onto one
half. Add the parmesan, rosemary and a pinch
of chilli flakes (if using) then fold over the other
half and crimp around the edges so they look
like 2 large pasties. Dust with flour then lift
onto a baking sheet. Cook for 15-20 minutes
until they’re crisp and golden.
PER SERVING 672 KCALS | PROTEIN 34.4G | CARBS 55.6G
FAT 33.8G | SAT FAT 15.8G | FIBRE 3.9G | SALT 2.7G
‘Use roasted veg instead of the mushrooms in these calzones, if you like’
oil
onion 1, diced
garlic 1 clove, crushed
green pepper 1, diced
celery 2 sticks, diced
cooked smoked sausage (Polish kabanos
work well) 200g, sliced into chunks
dried oregano ½ tsp
dried thyme ½ tsp
ground cumin 1 tsp
hot smoked paprika ½ tsp
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
plum tomatoes 2, chopped
tomato purée 1 tbsp
chicken stock 200ml
red kidney beans 400g tin
cooked basmati rice to serve
spring onions 2, chopped to serve
FRIDAYLouisiana red beans and rice 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
There a hundreds of different versions of this spicy southern dish – this is a very quick one.
• Heat a little oil in a pan and cook the onion
and garlic until it softens. Stir in the pepper and
celery and cook for 3-4 minutes, then add the
sausage and cook for a couple more minutes.
Add the dried herbs and spices and stir well then
tip in the red wine vinegar, tomatoes, puree and
stock. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the
drained and rinsed beans and cook for another
10-15 minutes. Serve with rice and sprinkle over
the chopped spring onions to finish.
PER SERVING 249 KCALS | PROTEIN 12.4G | CARBS 12.9G
FAT 15.1G | SAT FAT 4.9G | FIBRE 6.1G | SALT 1.7G
£6.45
SERVES 4 FOR
£3.30SERVES 2 FOR
Double-cheese and mushroom calzones
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 79
cook everyday janine’s cheap eats
80 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook everyday janine’s cheap eats
SUNDAYPork and sage meatballs40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
pork mince 500g
lemon 1, zested
onion 1 large, ½ grated, ½ finely sliced
breadcrumbs a handful
sage 10 leaves, finely chopped, plus
more to serve
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, sliced
white wine a glass
chicken stock 200ml
double cream 200ml
orzo cooked to serve
• Put the pork, lemon, grated onion, sage
and breadcrumbs in a bowl. Season, then mix
together and form into meatballs (about 30).
Shopping basket
onions 2 (1 medium, 1 large)
shallot 2 small
spring onions 1 bunch
celery 2 sticks
green pepper 1
aubergine 1 small
plum tomatoes 2
long stem broccoli 300g
field mushrooms 3 large
avocado ½
peas 100g
watercress 50g bag
young spinach 200g
lemons 2
basil a small bunch
chives ¼ small bunch
sage a small bunch
rosemary a few needles
pork mince 500g
smoked streaky bacon 4 slices
cooked smoked sausage
(Polish kabanos work well) 200g
mozzarella 1 ball
parmesan 2 tbsp
halloumi ½ block
pecorino or feta
double cream 200ml
eggs 2-4
chopped tomatoes 400g tin
roasted red peppers 4 from a jar
red kidney beans 400g tin
orzo
rigatoni 200g
quinoa 50g
basmati rice to serve
ciabatta bread mix
or pizza base mix 250g
breadcrumbs a handful
sourdough 4 slices
white wine a glass
Ingredients you’ll need
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olive oil
oil
butter
garlic
mayonnaise
wholegrain
mustard
sherry vinegar
red wine
vinegar
tomato puree
chicken stock
chilli flakes
dried oregano
dried thyme
ground cumin
hot smoked
paprika
golden sultanas
pine nuts
• Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan and cook the
meatballs until browned all over and cooked
through. Remove from the pan and add the
sliced onion. Cook until really soft and golden,
then add the garlic and cook for a minute or
two more. Add the wine and chicken stock and
reduce by half. Pour in the double cream and
simmer for a minute or two, then add back the
meatballs and simmer for another 5-7 minutes.
Don’t let the sauce reduce too much, you want
it the texture of single cream – add a splash of
stock or water if you need to. Serve with orzo
and sprinkled with some extra sage.
PER SERVING 544 KCALS | PROTEIN 27.5G | CARBS 8.5G
FAT 42G | SAT FAT 21.7G | FIBRE 1.4G | SALT 0.4G
£32.277 MEALS FOR
£6.69SERVES 4 FOR
AUGUST 2014 O 81
cook weekend
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81 O JULY 2014
YOUR AUTUMN COLLECTION• Sloe gin layer cake
• Best-ever pork vindaloo
• 3 ways with bangers
PLUS! Thai smoked trout salad | Weeknight 5:2 recipes | Squid taglierini | Pheasant ragu French onion tart | Fish tagine | Orange and honey cake | Pumpkin pie with maple cream
NEXT ISSUEON SALE 12 September
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and more – see page 67
80SEASONAL RECIPES
EXPLORE• O's 10 favourite Sunday lunch spots around the UK• Insider food guides to Puglia, Languedoc and Reykjavik
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 81
Segreti di famiglia
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Bellissimo!Using Galbani mozzarella can add a simple, authentic Italian flavour to your summer dishes
Galbani Mozzarella roasted pepper panzanella 25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
peppers 3, mixed colours
extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
red wine vinegar 2 tbsp
garlic 1 clove, crushed
red chilli 1, finely chopped
small tomatoes 300g
basil and oregano a small handful
ciabatta 200g (a few days old), in chunks
Galbani Mozzarella 125g ball, torn
black olives a small handful
• Rub peppers with a little oil and grill until skin
blackens. Put in a bowl, cover and cool.
• Once cool, peel off skins and pull out stalks
and seeds. Tear into strips and put back into the
bowl with juices. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar,
garlic, chilli and seasoning for dressing.
• Squash each tomato over the pepper bowl
to catch all the juices, then drop in. Add herbs,
ciabatta, mozzarella and olives and toss
everything together, then serve.
Renowned for its fresh, delicate
taste and versatility, it’s no
wonder that Italian families
turn to Galbani mozzarella
at dinnertime. In a simple salad or a more
extravagant dish, it’s the perfect ingredient
– and is delicious hot or cold.
Originating from Ballabio – a
small, lush Alpine village –
Galbani has been expertly
crafing cheese for over 130
years, making it a must-have
in any Italian kitchen. Try
this flavoursome dish for
yourself to see why it has
stood the test of time:
For more everyday recipes and Italian inspiration, visit galbani.co.uk
Galbani ambassador Joe and his
family boast an authentic Italian
heritage and haven’t lost sight
of their native traditions –
especially where cooking is
involved. They always use Galbani
cheese in their family recipes
due to its superior quality.
Joe says: “A torn Galbani mozzarella ball adds a rustic touch to this classic dish.”
Ga
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ark
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83 O JULY 2014
Fish finger doorstep sandwichpage 84
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 83
Let O rescue you from your recipe rut with five new midweek favouritesRecipes LULU GRIMES Photographs ANT DUNCANFIXES
Quick
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cook everydayquick �xes
84 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Fish finger doorstep sandwich15 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
fish fingers 3 or 4 chunky ones
capers 1 tsp
cornichons 2, finely chopped
mayonnaise 1½ tbsp
parsley chopped to make ½ tsp
lemon ½, zested and juiced
good bread 2 thick slices
butter
lettuce a few leaves
• Grill the fish fingers until they are cooked
through and crunchy, then leave to cool a little.
• Mix the capers and cornichons with the
mayo, stir in the parsley, lemon zest and a little
juice, then season. Spread the bread with
butter, lay the lettuce on top, add the flavoured
mayo and sandwich the fish fingers between
the slices. Halve to eat.
PER SERVING 580 KCALS | PROTEIN 17.1G | CARBS 36.4G
FAT 40.1G | SAT FAT 11.7G | FIBRE 2.4G | SALT 2.2G
Courgete and chive pasta20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
linguine 200g
courgettes 2, finely sliced
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, finely sliced
chives small bunch, chopped
lemon 1, zested and juiced
mascarpone 3 tbsp
• Cook the pasta, then
drain, keeping some of the
cooking water.
• Fry the courgette slices
in a little olive oil, turning
up the heat so they brown
around the edges. Add the
garlic and chives and cook
for a minute, then add the
lemon zest and juice and
season well. Stir this into the
linguine, then add the mascarpone
and a splash of pasta water and toss
everything together before serving.
PER SERVING 512 KCALS | PROTEIN 15.4G | CARBS 71.6G
FAT 17.1G | SAT FAT 10.4G | FIBRE 5.1G | SALT 0.1G
Crisp topped macaroni cheese30 MINUTES | SERVES 3 | EASY
macaroni 175g
butter 1½ tbsp
flour 1½ tbsp
milk 250ml
cheddar 100g, grated
parmesan 100g, grated
smoked ham (ready shredded) 1 x 90g pack
dried breadcrumbs 2-3 tbsp
smoked paprika
green salad or green veg to serve
• Cook the macaroni but leave it al dente,
then drain. Meanwhile, melt the butter and stir
in the flour, cook for 1 minute and then
gradually stir in the milk.
• Bubble the sauce, stirring it for a couple of
minutes to cook out the raw flavour of the flour.
Season well and stir in both the cheeses and
the ham. Add the macaroni and then tip the
lot into an ovenproof dish, sprinkle on the
breadcrumbs and dust with a good pinch
of paprika. Grill the top for about 2 minutes,
or until golden and crunchy.
• Serve with either a crisp green salad
or some lightly steamed green veg.
PER SERVING 953 KCALS | PROTEIN 54.9G | CARBS 75.3G
FAT 47.9G | SAT FAT 28.2G | FIBRE 0.6G | SALT 3.3G
85 O JULY 2014SEPTEMBER 2014 O 85
Pork chops with apple chilli salsa25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
pork chops 2, fat snipped
olive oil
apples 2 small, quartered
red chilli 1, finely diced
shallot 1, finely chopped
cider vinegar 2 tbsp
parsley chopped to make 1 tbsp
• Brush the pork with a little oil and
season well. Fry or grill the chops for
3-6 minutes on each side until they are
cooked through, then rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, finely slice the apples into
a bowl and add the chilli and shallot. Stir
in the vinegar, a splash of olive oil and
the parsley.
• Serve the chops with the salsa and some
potatoes if you like.
PER SERVING 306 KCALS | PROTEIN 41.6G | CARBS 8.1G
FAT 11.4G | SAT FAT 3.3G | FIBRE 1.9G | SALT 0.2G
Late summer salad20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
potatoes 2
courgette 1, sliced
red pepper 1, cut into pieces
olive oil
tomatoes 2, seeds scooped out and flesh
cut into segments
parsley a handful, chopped
basil a handful, chopped
smoky or red pepper houmous,
6 tbsp
pitta bread 2, toasted, to serve
• Peel and chop the potatoes, then
boil them for about 8 minutes, or until
tender. Drain well. Meanwhile, fry the
courgette and pepper in a little olive oil
until browned around the edges and
tender. Tip into a bowl, add the potatoes,
tomato, parsley and basil, toss together
and season well.
• Mix the houmous with a little oil and a splash
of water and spoon it in dollops over the salad.
Serve with the toasted pitta.
PER SERVING 559 KCALS | PROTEIN 18.8G | CARBS 78.7G
FAT 16.5G | SAT FAT 2.3G | FIBRE 10.2G | SALT 2.4G
cook everydayquick fixes
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A toast to traditionStep back in time with Europe’s finest wines and Port, perfected over the centuries
Go to discovertheorigin.co.uk to find out which food events Discover the Origin will be atending this season.
You can also follow @discoverorigin on Twiter and like Discover the Origin on Facebook
With traditional European
produce such as Bourgogne
and Douro Wines and Port,
it’s the regions they’re made
in and the history behind them that makes all
the difference in terms of taste. The Discover
the Origin campaign celebrates the incredible
heritage of these simple but quality products
– alongside Parma Ham and Parmigiano
Reggiano Cheese – for that reason.
Bourgogne Wines, Douro Wines and Port
have been awarded Protected Designation
of Origin status, which guarantees that they
have been made in a specific region using
age-old methods for consistent excellence.
This makes them affordable luxuries that
can be enjoyed at home, yet vividly conjure
the sun-drenched vineyards and steep-sided
terraced quintas they come from – sweeping
you away to places where traditions hold
strong and locals relax with a glass of wine
or Port in prety squares.
Portugal’s Douro Valley is a protected
UNESCO World Heritage site that’s home to
both its namesake wine and Port. To this day,
Douro Wines are only made with native grape
varieties, and some family-run quintas still
embrace the tradition of crushing grapes by
foot in large, square granite tanks called
lagars, when making Port. Bourgogne in
France, meanwhile, is one of the world’s most
famous wine regions with a history stretching
back 2,000 years. It has just 3,800 producers,
known for their intuitive but gentle cultural
practices, as they aim to give quality nutrients
back to the soil.
Take a sip of Europe’s authentic character
and history with a Bourgogne Wine paired
with this carpaccio recipe.
Discover the Origin has two hampers filled with tasty goodies to give away. To enter, email your name, phone number and the answer to ‘what country is Parma Ham made in?’ to [email protected]
Wine match A white or red Bourgogne Wine such as Rully 1er Cru
Term
s an
d co
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s: P
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: D
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. C
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mid
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to U
K re
side
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will b
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on
10 O
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014 a
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ed b
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Beef carpaccio with horseradish dressing15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
olive oil
beef fillet 250gsmall capers 15g, rinsedwild rocket a handful of leavesParmigiano Reggiano 30g, shavedHORSERADISH DRESSINGextra virgin olive oil
horseradish sauce 1 tbsplemon juice 2 tspmayonnaise 1 tbsp
• Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan and sear
the beef for about 4–5 minutes until browned
on all sides. Remove and leave to cool.
• Meanwhile, make the dressing by whisking
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil with the
horseradish, lemon juice and mayonnaise
in a bowl. Season generously.
• Finely slice the beef (to make it easier to
slice thinly, you can put it in the freezer for 30
minutes to firm up after searing) and arrange
on a plate so that it is slightly overlapping.
Season well, drizzle the dressing over the top,
then scatter over the capers, rocket leaves and
Parmigiano Reggiano. Serve immediately.
Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status is awarded to foods from specific geographic areas which adhere to rigorous standards. The PDO is an indication of quality and origin of traditional products created by the European Union to help consumers by informing them about the specific features of the products, and to protect their geographical appellations against imitations and usurpations.
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WINA LUXURY HAMPER!
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 87
cook everyday slimmer dinners
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Low-calorie, low-fat and 5:2
diet-friendly mealsRecipes ANNA GLOVER
Photographs ANT DUNCAN
Peanut tofu stir-fry
Prawn and avocado
Vietnamese summer rolls
Halloumi, tomato and
aubergine skewers
Grilled polenta with tomato
and olive salad
Slimmer
DINNERS
cook everyday slimmer dinners
Grilled polenta with tomato and olive salad40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
vegetable stock 250ml
instant polenta 100g
plum tomatoes 3, halved
olive oil
pitted black olives 25g
baby spinach a handful of leaves
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
• Bring the stock to a simmer and pour in the polenta. Stir continuously
until thick, then season well. Spread into a small shallow baking dish
and leave to cool in the fridge for about 20 minutes to set.
• Meanwhile, heat the grill to medium. Season the tomato halves,
put them on a baking tray and grill for 10 minutes until soft and
starting to collapse.
• Heat a chargrill to very hot. Cut the polenta into wedges and
brush with 1 tsp olive oil. Grill for 2 minutes on both sides until
golden and heated through. Toss the olives and spinach leaves with
1 tsp oil and the red wine vinegar, then season. Serve with the
polenta wedges and grilled tomatoes.
PER SERVING 165 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.1G | CARBS 18.3G
FAT 6.9G | SAT FAT 1G | FIBRE 6.2G | SALT 0.6G
88 O SEPTEMBER 2014
FOR MORE HEALTHY RECIPES
lulusnotes .com
Prawn and avocado Vietnamese summer rolls 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
ginger thumb-sized piece, peeled and finely chopped
red chilli 1, seeded and diced
fish sauce 1 tbsp
garlic 1 clove, crushed
limes 2, juiced
sesame oil 2 tsp
cooked and peeled king prawns 9, halved
rice paper wrappers 6, 22cm diameter
coriander a handful of leaves
avocado ½, finely sliced
carrot 1, peeled and shredded
rice noodle vermicelli 40g, soaked in boiling water
for 5 minutes, rinsed and drained
spring onions 2, shredded
• Mix the ginger, chilli, fish sauce, garlic, lime juice and sesame
oil. Pour 2 tbsp over the prawns and leave to marinate for at least
10 minutes. Dunk the rice paper wrappers in a bowl of warm water
one at a time, leaving each for a few seconds until no longer brittle.
Pile a few coriander leaves, a few prawns, avocado slices, carrot,
noodles and spring onion onto each wrapper. Fold in the sides and
roll up tightly. Serve with the rest of the chilli sauce.
PER SERVING 399 KCALS | PROTEIN 14G | CARBS 58G
FAT 11.2G | SAT FAT 2.1G | FIBRE 5.2G | SALT 3.5G
Halloumi, tomato and aubergine skewers 20 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
garlic 1 clove, crushed
parsley ½ bunch, chopped
capers 2 tbsp, rinsed and roughly chopped
lemon ½, juiced
olive oil
cherry tomatoes 6
low-fat halloumi 100g, cubed
aubergine 1 small, cut into 2cm cubes
crusty bread to serve
rocket a handful
• Whisk the garlic with the parsley, capers, lemon juice, 2 tbsp oil,
then season. Take out and reserve 2 tbsp, then toss the remaining
marinade with the tomatoes, aubergine, and halloumi. Season, then
leave for at least 20 minutes. Thread onto skewers. Heat a chargrill
to hot and sear the skewers for 2-3 minutes on each side, until the
tomatoes just start to burst and the halloumi is golden. Pile onto
crusty bread and serve with rocket leaves and the remaining
marinade poured over.
PER SERVING 276 KCALS | PROTEIN 15.1G | CARBS 6.5G
FAT 19.9G | SAT FAT 6.7G | FIBRE 5.1G | SALT 1.9
Peanut tofu stir-fry 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
soy sauce 3 tbsp
rice vinegar 3 tbsp
mirin 1 tbsp
ginger thumb-sized piece, peeled and grated
firm tofu 1 block, approx 350g, cut into thick strips
groundnut oil
red chilli 1, seeded and finely sliced
stir-fry vegetables 300g pack, with peppers and pak choi
egg noodles 2 nests, cooked
peanuts 2 tbsp, toasted and roughly chopped
• Mix 2 tbsp each soy sauce and rice vinegar, the mirin and half the
ginger. Wrap the tofu in a few sheets of kitchen paper and put a heavy
chopping board on top for 10 minutes to release some of the liquid.
• Heat a non-stick pan and dry-fry the tofu on both sides until golden.
Press down gently with a spatula as you fry to release more liquid.
After frying, transfer to a small pan with the soy mix and simmer for
10 minutes until the tofu is coated and the sauce has reduced.
• Heat 1 tbsp oil in a wok and fry the remaining ginger and the
chilli for 1 minute. Add the vegetables and stir-fry for 1 minute before
adding the noodles. Season with 1 tbsp soy sauce and 1 tbsp rice
vinegar and cook for another minute. Divide between bowls, add the
tofu and scatter with the chopped peanuts to serve.
PER SERVING 233 KCALS | PROTEIN 17.3G | CARBS 8.5G
FAT 13.5G | SAT FAT 2.6G | FIBRE 4G | SALT 1.4G
89 O JULY 2014SEPTEMBER 2014 O 89
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cook everyday
Extra Special
Marques del Norte
Rioja Reserva
2009, Spain, 14%
(£6, Asda). A mellow
blend of tempranillo,
garnacha and
graciano, aged in
both French and
American oak.
Finest Limoux
Chardonnay
2011, France, 13%
(£8.49, Tesco).
Utterly gorgeous
chardonnay from
another co-operative
with just a gentle
touch of oak giving a
more creamy texture.
Cave de St Vernay
Puy de Dôme Pinot
Noir 2011, France,
14% (£8.99, Majestic).
This lovely, light,
crunchy but fruity pinot
noir comes from a
co-operative in the
Auvergne. Drink it
very slightly chilled.
The Society’s
Chilean
Chardonnay 2013
Limari, Chile, 13.5%
(£6.95, The Wine
Society). An
immaculate, round,
bright chardonnay
from one of Chile’s
newer, cooler regions.
FOUR TO TRY WITH
PORK CHOPS
Pork chops with pommes boulangère2 HOURS | SERVES 4 | EASY
pork chops 4
butter 75g
olive oil
onions 2, peeled and sliced
Maris Piper potatoes 800g
lemon thyme a small handful, leaves
chopped (optional)
chicken stock up to 500ml
• Season the pork chops on both sides and put
them in the fridge. Heat the oven to 180C/fan
160C/gas 4. Melt 25g of the butter with
1 tbsp olive oil and gently fry the onions until
they’re soft and beginning to caramelise.
• While the onions are cooking, peel the
Our expert suggests new wines to drink with pork chopsWords and recipe VICTORIA MOORE
My parents recently went to
a supper club organised by
a former MasterChef
contestant. They were sent
the menu of slow-cooked pork belly in advance
in order that they might take their own wine.
Obviously they consulted me, and I sent a list
of red riojas.
The feedback came in: ‘We were siting
next to a sommelier. She’d taken a white.
She thinks only white wine goes with pork.’
Expertise questioned! A difficult parent
moment: Our daughter only knows about
wine and can’t even get that right. Oh dear.
Actually, I half agree. Chardonnay – white
burgundy in particular – suits the texture and
sometimes has woodruff notes that go well
with the herbs (thyme, fennel seeds) which are
ofen rubbed into the meat. The trick is to find
a white that has some body or texture.
But, offered the choice, people ofen go for
red. With this dish, the light, slightly vegetal
notes of a French pinot noir work well. The
sof curves of a red rioja are also particularly
BARGAIN BOTTLE
Victoria Moore
writes for The
Telegraph and is
the author of
How to Drink
(Granta, £12.99)
potatoes and slice finely (it’s much quicker
to use a mandolin if you have one). Now put
a messy couple of layers of potato slices in an
ovenproof dish, season, sprinkle over some
lemon thyme (if using) and caramelised onions.
Continue layering until all the ingredients are
used up. Pour the stock into the dish until it comes
about two thirds of the way up the potatoes. Dot
the top with the remaining butter and cook for
about 90 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft
in the middle and crisp and brown on top.
• Towards the end of the cooking time, griddle
the chops for 5 minutes on both sides, or until
cooked through. Serve with the potatoes.
PER SERVING 571 KCALS | PROTEIN 40.5G | CARBS 37.9G
FAT 27.4G | SAT FAT 13.4G | FIBRE 5.3G | SALT 0.8G
NEXT MONTH
ON SALE 12 SEPTEMBER
Potato curry
good with the caramelised onions. An oaked
white will pick up the sofness of the onions;
if you add lemon thyme then a vermentino
or verdicchio will accentuate the herbal lif.
Victoria’s
Spread calm.Soothes and protects skin with eczema.
Now available off the shelf.
diprobase.co.uk
Always read the label. Code: DERM-1119589-0000. Date of preparation: May 2014.
1
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 91
Chefs are great at making everyday ingredients special and have inspired us to create these easy, imaginative dishesRecipes & words SARAH COOK Photographs STUART OVENDEN
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Inspired by
PANGEA STREET This new street food stall in Brixton market offers a daily-changing menu of globally
inspired salads. While sweetcorn is at its peak, we’ll be going for the Peruvian – crisp corn kernels with black beans, red peppers, crumbled feta and plenty of fresh coriander. pangeastreet.co.uk
Roasted corn, black bean & feta salad30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
corn cobs 2 large, any husks removed
limes 2, zest of 1, juice of both
olive oil
red chilli 1, seeded and finely chopped
cumin seeds 1 tsp
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
coriander ½ a small bunch, stalks finely
chopped, leaves roughly
black beans 400g tin, rinsed and drained
whole roasted peppers 2 from a jar,
cut into large dice
spring onions 5, sliced
feta 125g, roughly crumbled
Little Gem lettuce 1, leaves separated
• Cook the sweetcorn cobs in boiling water
for 3 minutes, then drain well and pat dry
with kitchen paper.
• Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.
Mix the lime zest, 1 tbsp oil and ½ the chilli
and cumin with some seasoning. Drizzle over
the corn cobs in a small oven tray and roast
for 12-15 minutes, turning occasionally, until
starting to turn golden brown and char.
• Meanwhile, whisk the lime juice with1 tbsp oil,
the remaining chilli, vinegar and coriander stalks
in a salad bowl. Tip in the beans, peppers,
spring onions and feta and toss.
sweetcorn3ways with
• Lift the corn
from the oven
and cool for a
minute while you
divide the lettuce
between 4 plates. Stir
most of the coriander
leaves into the bean salad,
and divide this between the
leaves. Using a large knife, put
each cob on end and slice away
the kernels. Pile these on top of the
salads, scatter with reserved coriander
leaves and serve.
PER SERVING 303 KCALS | PROTEIN 14.3G | CARBS 25.8G
FAT 14.4G | SAT FAT 5.5G | FIBRE 6.7 G | SALT 1.2G
Thai corn cakes with pickled cucumbers30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY
92 O SEPTEMBER 2014
corn cobs 3 large, husks removed
and kernels cut from cobs
lemongrass 1 stalk, tough outer leaf
discarded and the rest roughly chopped
ginger grated to make 1 tbsp
green Thai curry paste 1-2 tbsp
egg 1
rice flour 200g
milk 3 tbsp
kaffir lime leaves 5, finely shredded
oil for frying
sweet chilli sauce to serve
PICKLED CUCUMBER
cucumber 1/3
red onion ½, diced
rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp
caster sugar 2 tsp
• Tip half of the corn into a food processor
with the lemongrass, ginger, curry paste,
egg, rice flour and milk. Pulse to a paste, then
scrape into a bowl and stir in the remaining
corn and lime leaves and season.
• For the pickled cucumbers, halve the
cucumber lengthways and scrape out the
seeds using a teaspoon. Slice into half moons
and mix with the onion, vinegar and sugar.
Set aside for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally,
before serving.
• To fry the fritters, heat 2cm oil in a big wok
or deep frying pan. Spoon in tbsps of fritter
batter and sizzle for about 2 minutes on each
side until golden, crisp and cooked through.
Pile onto paper-towel lined trays and keep
warm in a low oven while you fry the rest.
Serve hot with bowls of sweet chilli sauce
and the pickled cucumber.
PER SERVING 415 KCALS | PROTEIN 8.8G | CARBS
58.5G | FAT 15.4G | SAT FAT 1.9G | FIBRE 3.9G
SALT 0.3G
2Inspired by
TIIEN THAI Spicy corn cakes are a Thai restaurant staple, but the Tord man khao phod at this Bournemouth favourite are
particularly good. Packed with fresh corn kernels, they come with a pile of ajard – a fresh pickled cucumber salsa. tiienthairestaurant.co.uk
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 93
3cook everyday
3 waysInspired by
Q GRILL While the sun’s still shining, Selfridges London rooftop has been transformed with a pop-up restaurant from the
Q grill. The spiced creamed corn side dish is cooked with fresh red chilli to cut through the richness, great with barbecued ribs and chicken. q-grill.co.uk/on-the-roof-with-q
Creamed corn with chilli and smoky paprika40 MINUTES | SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE | EASY
corn cobs 4 large, husks removed
and kernels cut from cobs
onions 2, finely chopped
garlic 1 clove, crushed
red chilli 1, seeded and finely chopped
butter 25g
rapeseed oil
smoked paprika ½ tsp
double cream 250ml
coriander to serve
• Put the corn kernels, onions, garlic
and chilli in a pan (with a lid), with
the butter and 1 tbspoil and cook over
a very low heat for about 10 minutes,
or until the onion is translucent and
the corn is soft, but not browning. Stir
in the paprika for a minute to toast.
• Add in the cream with 200ml water,
then bring to a gentle simmer before
covering and cooking for 10 minutes.
Lift off the lid and, using a stick blender,
blitz roughly half of the corn in the pan.
Bubble gently without the lid for roughly
another 10 minutes, or until the corn is
thick and creamy. Season well, particularly
with salt and scatter with coriander to serve.
PER SERVING 356 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.2G | CARBS 17.9G
FAT 29.2G | SAT FAT 16.4G | FIBRE 2.6G | SALT 0.5G
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Great Scot! Let Campbells deliver Scotland’s finest fresh quality meat, fish and deli goods to your door
Nick Nairn’s perfect steak 15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
rib eye or sirloin steaks 2 x 225gsunflower oil 2 tbspunsalted butter 25gthyme a spriggarlic 1 clove, crushedwatercress a handful, to servechips to serve
• Season the steaks well. Put a large, heavy
frying pan on a high heat. When hot, add the
sunflower oil to the pan – when it starts to
smoke add the steaks, resisting the temptation
to move them around.
• After 2-3 minutes of cooking, turn them
over and cook on the other side for another
2-3 minutes. Add the butter, thyme and garlic
and allow the butter to foam. If there are fatty
edges, use tongs to hold each steak on its
side and press the fatty edge into the pan
to colour.
• Once cooked, remove the steaks from
the pan and put on a metal tray in a warm
place to rest for 4-5 minutes. Serve on
warm plates with chips and watercress.
A good butcher that offers only the
best produce, along with years
of experience and knowledge,
can be hard to find. That’s the
beauty of Scotish family-run butchers,
Campbells. You get all that with the added
convenience of having your goods delivered.
Over the last 100 years, Campbells has
earned a reputation for supplying the freshest
meat, fish and delicatessen goods to Scotland’s
Michelin-star hotels and restaurants. Top chef
Nick Nairn says Campbells beef is some of ‘the
best’ he’s ever had due to its ‘excellent quality,
delicious taste and superb consistency’. That’s
no surprise, as it’s dry-aged for at least 21 days
for the most tender, prime-quality meat possible.
Campbells offers the same high quality to its
household buyers via campbellsmeat.com. It
guarantees its produce is 100% fresh – never
frozen and, proud of its Scotish heritage, it
offers Scotch Lamb and specially-selected
pork, plus its own beef brand Campbells Gold,
which uses Quality Meat Scotland certified
Scotch Beef. From farm to fork, every product
For more information and to order, visit campbellsmeat.com or call 0844 573 8456
can be traced and each order is butchered
individually in the traditional way to ensure
quality and taste consistency each time.
What’s more, Campbells is the exclusive
Scotish stockist of Mey Selections Beef and
Lamb (established in 2005 by Prince Charles
to foster closer connections between farmers,
fine food producers and consumers in the
Highlands), which was served at William and
Kate’s wedding reception.
So visit campbellsmeat.com now. Orders
placed before noon enjoy next-day delivery
(deliveries are open Tue-Sat), and it’s free for
those over £50 (excluding Saturdays).
O readers can enjoy 10% off their first order, plus two free 6oz Scotch beef sirloin steaks when they spend over £30. Simply use the code OLIVE10 at checkout.
FREEREADER OFFER!
POSTCARD FROM DUBLIN | SAN SEBASTIÁN WITH A MASTERCHEFPRO VS PUNTER AT RIVEA LONDON | WHERE TO EAT OUT IN BATH
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 95
Rome's new-found appetite for street food, on the trail of salt cod fritters in Rio, and why bacon and eggs are taking Paris by storm, Plus, 10 of the most original dishes on Britain’s menus
ENJOY
exploreEAT
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TRAVELL
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Does an average diner reach the same
conclusions about restaurants as a food
pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?*
Tom Parker-Bowles and O reader Catherine Wallen
review Rivea
The placeA newcomer to Alain Ducasse’s stellar portfolio,
occupying the basement of the Bulgari Hotel in
Knightsbridge, Rivea offers a luxurious London
take on Provençal cuisine, as devised by chef
Damien Leroux, who has been working for
Ducasse for 10 years in the south of France. His
menu showcases seasonal vegetables, served
with seafood and pasta dishes. The interior was
designed by Italians Antonio Citterio and Patricia
Viel. Bulgari Hotel, 171 Knightsbridge, London
SW7, rivealondon.com
PRO
PUNTER
versus
SRA RATING 5/10 thesra.orgRivea’s menu features a good deal of
British produce, including much of the
seafood and all of the lamb and beef.
There’s a strong emphasis on healthy eating, with
many vegetarian dishes. Much of the imported
produce is air freighted – something Rivea should
look to review, likewise the coffee, tea and sugar,
none of which is fairly traded.
The punterCatherine Wallen is a
Londoner who eats out
at least once a week.
She is keen on Asian
food, and rates the set
lunch at Le Gavroche as
her best ever dining
out experience.
96 O SEPTEMBER 2014
The proTom Parker-Bowles is a TV
presenter and food writer.
He is a judge on ITV1’s Food
Glorious Food, and his
cookbook, Let’s Eat:
Recipes from my
Kitchen Notebook
(Pavilion, £25), is
on sale now.
FOOD 9/10ATMOSPHERE 8/10
SERVICE 10/10 CATHERINE’S TOTAL: 27/30
WANT TO REVIEW A RESTAURANT?
For a chance to be O’s next punter, join our reader panel at magazineinsiders.com
Total score
52/60
FOR MORE
PHOTOS
GET THE APP!
See page 67
FOOD 9/10ATMOSPHERE 7/10SERVICE 9/10TOM’S TOTAL: 25/30
The punter says...
On arriving we were given an explanation
of the small-plates concept, and advised that
dishes would arrive when ready. There was no
problem ordering tap water, though it was not
initially offered. The sommelier offered good
advice on wines by the glass to accompany
the meal, and service throughout was superb
– polished but relaxed – and all our questions
were handled with ease and enthusiasm.
The seasonal menu has a great variety of
dishes, and plenty to keep vegetarians happy.
We started with a warm octopus and potato
salad, £8, with slender discs of melt-in-the-
mouth octopus, and tender tentacles. Stuffed
tomatoes, £8, were bursting with rich, almost
meaty, flavour, while crisp-skinned red mullet
came with confit tomatoes and black olives,
£9. Lobster gelée with prawns, £11, was
sweet, light and fresh.
As good as the starters were, the pastas were
the stars of the show. Artichoke and borage
ravioli, £9, was delicate, and sage and
parmesan gnocchi, £9, was among the best
I’ve had, subtly flavoured and cloud-like.
Roast duck, £14, came with tender turnips
and beetroots, and rib and saddle of lamb, £17,
with new potatoes and broad beans. The duck,
although cooked perfectly, was a litle chewy.
The lamb was delicious, but the broad beans
were a tad underdone. For dessert we shared
the braised rhubarb and strawberry with
almond ice cream, £6, which came with some
lovely palmier biscuits.
The seting is super-swish, with exemplary
staff that make this a first-class dining
experience. Rivea is bit too expensive for
frequent visits – I’d go for special occasions. I’m
tempted by the set lunch deal (£35 for two
starters, a main, a dessert, plus water and
coffee), which seems terrific value.
Bill was £162 for two, including service
The pro says...
As you’d expect from anywhere bearing
Ducasse’s name, service is slick, without
being smug. Waiters know their way around
the menu and seem to have actually tried
each and every dish. No irritating upselling
here, just well-drilled confidence. When they
smile, which is frequently, you actually believe
they’re enjoying their job. *I was recognised.
Rivea promises the sun-soaked flavours of the
French Riviera, and prety much delivers
them. There’s nothing fussy about the menu,
just absolute belief in the quality of its
ingredients. Sea bass carpaccio, £11,
shimmers with freshness, as does the bream,
£8. Beautifully cooked prawns come in a
delicate, golden lobster jelly, £11. Raw baby
carrots, endive and tomato, £8, seem to have
skipped straight out of a Provençal market,
while rib and saddle of lamb, £17, is just old
enough to know a thing or two about flavour.
These dishes would please even the pickiest
of Provençal (and northwestern Italian)
palates. A magnificent plate of charcuterie,
£18, comes draped with tissue-paper-thin
slices of culatello that seduces the tastebuds,
and even bresaola and San Daniele ham, ofen
so dull, impress. Ducasse spent weeks in the
kitchen ensuring everything was just-so before
leaving it in the hands of chef Damien Leroux.
Rivea is proof of a simple philosophy: find the
best seasonal ingredients and do as litle as
possible to them. Amen to that.
It’s prety hard to fault the food. The only slight
downside is the room. It makes the best of
a basement space in the Bulgari Hotel, but
I found myself craving some natural light to
flood onto my well-fed face. I did miss a view,
and the room could do with a litle more buzz.
Still, I’ll be back. Stunning ingredients,
beautifully cooked. Rivea rocks.
Bill was £155 for two, including service
THE SERVICE THE SERVICE
THE FOOD
THE FOOD
THE BOTTOM LINE
THE BOTTOM LINE
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 97
explorepro vs punter
98 O SEPTEMBER 2014
The ideas and effort behind these show-stopping dishes make it worth spending your hard-earned cash in
a restaurant: here are 10 to add to your hit list Words ROSIE BIRKETT
98 O SEPTEMBER 2014
DON’Ttry this at home
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 99
ExploreXXXXXXXXXX
2Coconut & mango soufflé with Malibu
Paul Blackman, Le Talbooth, Colchester
‘We sell soufflés like they’re going out of
fashion,’ says Paul Blackman, Le Talbooth’s
pastry chef for the past seven years. His
French-Caribbean dessert of Malibu-spiked
coconut soufflé with fresh mango and mango
jelly is a bestseller at the restaurant. ‘The
flavours really harmonise,’ he says. ‘The
soufflé is made with coconut milk and a
splash of Malibu, and there is some desiccated
coconut at the botom for a bit of crunch. The
mango jelly is made with agar agar, a seaweed
gelling agent that retains its structure even
when heated, so it doesn’t just melt.’
Blackman was inspired by the flavours
of his Barbadian roots. ‘I was the first of
my siblings to be born in the UK, and when
I was growing up you couldn’t get mangoes
and coconuts in this country. When my
family and friends went home they’d bring
these fruits back and we’d fight over them
because they were a real delicacy, so now
I like to use them at work as much as I can.’
Although many of us may dismiss Malibu
as a sickly reminder of our student days,
Blackman taps into the coconut liqueur’s
sweetness for his dish. ‘My desserts are not
too heavy on sugar, so I just use a splash,
and the whole rum-liqueur thing works
with those Caribbean notes.’
milsomhotels.com/letalbooth
An iconic dish I wish
I’d come up with
‘Gary Rhodes’ Jaffa cake pudding,
made with Seville oranges.’
1Omakase sashimi
Yasuhiro Mineno, Yashin, Ocean House
Yashin Ocean House
in London’s South
Kensington takes
an adventurous
approach to Japanese seafood. Its entirely
fish and seafood-based menu explores a
‘head to tail’ ethos, utilising every aspect
of the fish, from the roe, to the flesh and
skin. At the restaurant, classic Japanese
flavours and techniques are given a modern,
European interpretation by ex-Nobu chef
Yasuhiro Mineno and sous Daniele Codini,
formerly of the Fat Duck.
As such, Mineno’s signature dish of
omakase sashimi comes readily and
intricately seasoned by him, breaking
from the Japanese ritual whereby diners
dip fish in soy sauce themselves. ‘Our
sashimi is based on the concept “without
soy sauce”,’ he explains. ‘We apply just
the right amount of a particular pre-
seasoning to the fish, using the citrus
fruit yuzu, yuzugosho (a citrus pepper),
a Japanese yuzu chilli, the Japanese plum
ume, and sansho Japanese green pepper.
“Omakase” means “chef’s daily choice”,
which allows us to use wild produce such
as seabass and mackerel from Cornwall,
and red sea bream and red snapper from
France, making our sashimi really special.’
Every fish in the sashimi selection is
served with a different modern topping
that complements and amplifies its natural
flavour, so you might find a truffle and
ponzu jelly, a tosazu (bonito-flavoured rice
vinegar dressing) gel, and more. The dish
is served spectacularly, with dry ice placed
at the botom of the glass plate, and then
a yuzu-flavoured water poured over to release
a cloud of the wonderfully aromatic Japanese
citrus while you enjoy your sashimi.
yashinocean.com
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Mark Hix’s Swainson House Farm roast
chicken at Tramshed. It is a very simple
dish, but it’s not as easy as it looks.’
explore
100 O SEPTEMBER 2014
3Black
olive
and banana
praline ice
cream with
pistachio
cake
Steve Drake, Drake’s, Ripley
An excitingly modern approach and
innovative flavour combinations underpin
Steve Drake’s Michelin-starred cooking
at Drake’s in the small village of Ripley,
Surrey. The chef has worked with the
avant-garde French chef Marc Veyrat, and
takes much of his inspiration when devising
dishes from reading widely around cooking.
‘I tend to read an awful lot,’ he says, ‘And
I noticed that a lot of chefs were trying a
parsley and banana combination so, in my
mind, it was natural to match banana with
another, different, earthy flavour.
‘The original idea stemmed from when
I was experimenting with pralines and
I tried a number of different nut and sugar
combinations, adding salt to taste. Then it
struck me that an olive praline might work…
wow! This was a really good base idea, but
I had to find a way of incorporating it into
a recipe.’
Combining the olive praline with banana
and working it into an ice cream was Steve’s
solution. ‘Afer considerable experimentation
over a few months, the result was a banana
and black olive ice cream, which we now
serve with a pistachio cake. I think this is
a completely original idea, and it’s one I’m
particularly proud of because, while it might
seem like a strange pairing, the flavours
really work together.’
drakesrestaurant.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Lobster with white port and ginger, created
by Michel Roux. What a dish! It has
incredible flavours and is truly inspirational.’
4Sole
VŽronique
André Garret, at Cliveden, Berkshire
‘There’s continual invention in cheffing, but
sometimes it’s nice to bring back forgoten
things and reinvent them,’ says Garrat,
whose signature dish of sole Véronique is
a modern update of a classic dish by the
legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier.
‘It’s one of those dishes that is truly iconic.
It’s lovely to hark back to what really works,
to something fundamental. You’ve still got
the flavours of the original dish – those
combinations and textures are timeless and
always there – but I’ve reinvented them in
a way that’s not so heavy or old-fashioned.’
The textbook version is a whole Dover sole
poached in a white wine bouillon that is then
used to make a very rich beurre blanc, served
over the fish with peeled grapes. In Garret’s
version, the fish is taken off the bone and rolled
into a boudin, poached in a waterbath and
served with a beurre blanc made with verjus.
‘I use verjus rather than wine, because it’s
more acidic, but it still gives that essence of the
original sauce. Rather than just peeling our
‘While it might seem like a strange pairing, the flavours really work together’
grapes, we bring them halfway to
raisins, intensifying their flavour.
Then I add some pine nuts that
have been cooked in a stock syrup
and deep fried for a nice crunch’.
clivedenhouse.co.uk/restaurant/andre-garret
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Guy Savoy’s artichoke and black truffle soup
– it’s unbelievable.’
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GET THE APP!See page 67
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 101
exploresignature dishes
5Baked skyr
with skyr ice cream and seasonal fruit
Agnar Sverrisson, Texture, London W1
‘I remember my mum making me skyr
(similar to strained yoghurt) for breakfast,
stirred with sugar and served with lots of
blueberries,’ says Agnar Sverrisson. ‘It’s been
a part of Icelandic food culture for thousands
of years, made by cooking skimmed milk for
about two days at a very low temperature so it
turns into a thick paste. It’s got very litle fat in
it, but you wouldn’t know because it’s so thick.’
At Texture, Sverrisson mixes skyr with
sugar, lemon juice and milk, and bakes it
sofly for about an hour to create a warm, set-
custard-style dessert. He serves it with
a sharp ice cream also made of skyr and,
depending on season, strawberries,
raspberries or blueberries. ‘Skyr is
traditionally a breakfast dish – a cross
between sof cheese and yoghurt, and you
have to mix it with sugar, otherwise it can
be biter. We’ve taken it to another level in
this dessert; you’d never usually find it in
an ice cream.’ texture-restaurant.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘I wish I could have invented gravadlax.
Otherwise it would be Raymond Blanc’s
confit salmon cooked in olive oil with lemon.’
6Rabbit, marmalade, carrots & soil
Tom van Zeller, Van Zeller, Harrogate
‘I’ll admit, it’s a bit of a play on the whole
Bugs Bunny thing,’ says Tom Van Zeller
of his mischievously named signature dish.
Though carrot may seem a rather prosaic
ingredient, in Van Zeller’s hands, it’s
anything but. ‘Carrot is a great
accompaniment and wonderfully vibrant,
especially if more than one variety is used.
We use a heritage mix, giving a good array
of colours, shapes and sizes: some we cook,
some we pickle and some we shave and
serve raw.’
To link the two ingredients together, Van
Zeller makes a ‘soil’ by blending a biscuit
base with mushroom powder. ‘The soil
connects the carrots to the rabbit,’ he says.
‘It’s like a litle veg garden growing from
a plate: carrots, rabbits and soil, it all works
together nicely. We use the rabbit loin, and
also make a litle parfait from the liver and
a consommé from the legs, which we turn
into a jelly for the parfait. We very gently
poach the loin in a marinade with star anise,
pepper and carrot oil, which we make by
cooking carrots slowly in oil.’ The chef also
uses baby carrots and nasturtiums from his
own allotment to garnish the dish. ‘It’s a
fabulous, local, homegrown, organic,
free-range dish.’ vanzellerrestaurants.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Pierre Koffmann’s hare à la royale.
I love game.’
‘It’s been on the menu for three years and it’s our biggest-selling dish by far’
‘I’m interested in the anthropology of cooking
– taking the best bits from different food
cultures,’ says Kenneth Culhane, The
Dysart’s head chef. Culhane won the Roux
Scholarship in 2010, which has led to
extensive travel opportunities. ‘Every two
years the Roux Scholars meet up and make
a trip to visit two- and three-Michelin-starred
restaurants for inspiration,’ he explains.
‘We went to Japan last year, and the food blew
me away. I wanted to create a simple dish
drawing on ideas from Japan’s kaiseki
cooking, which represents a moment or
season, through a multi-course tasting menu.’
Culhane’s charred mackerel with kombu-
braised daikon, ginger and champagne taps
into this sense of transience. The charring
of the mackerel nods to the use of charcoal
grills in a lot of Japanese cooking, while
daikon is also a staple. ‘We cook it with
kombu (edible kelp) and bonito (a mackerel-
like fish) in a base stock, dashi, which gives
a nice freshness. It has an acidity and
balance that really gets you going, so it’s
a great starter.’ thedysartpetersham.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘I worked for the Japanese chef Tetsuya
Wakuda in Sydney, and his Tasmanian ocean
trout confit with trout eggs, kombu and fennel
is one of the best dishes I’ve eaten.’
8Charred mackerel, kombu braised
daikon, ginger and champagne
Kenneth Culhane, The Dysart, Petersham
7Crab
cannelloni Mark Greenaway, Restaurant Mark Greenaway, Edinburgh
Scotish chef Mark Greenaway’s signature
dish was waiting for him in a cupboard. ‘The
original idea came from the glass it’s served
in,’ he says. ‘I found these very unusual,
two-part glasses siting in a cupboard at the
restaurant. They are martini chillers - you
put ice in the botom and your martini in
the top, and it keeps the martini cold.
‘At the same time, I got the brief through
from Great British Menu, which was all about
being innovative and pushing boundaries, so
when I found the glasses I thought it would
be cool to fill it with a two-part dish. Then my
fishmonger came in with some really great
crab, so I tried to develop a dish along those
lines. It’s been on the menu for three years
and it’s our biggest-selling dish by far.’
The crab cannelloni comes in two layers.
On the botom is a smoked cauliflower
custard topped with freshly picked crabmeat
with home-made lemon caviar. Greenaway
fills the botom glass with an applewood
smoke, encasing it with the top glass, which
holds baby gem letuce and the crab
cannelloni: a crab mayonnaise coated in a herb
buter – there’s actually no pasta involved.
‘I was trying to do a very upmarket version
of a crab salad. Crab goes well with
cauliflower because cauliflower itself
is quite sweet, and the lemon cuts through
the fatiness of the cauliflower custard and
the richness of the crab, so it all works in
harmony together.’ markgreenaway.com
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Bret Graham’s brown sugar tart with stem
ginger ice cream at the Ledbury. The
balance of the whole dish is outstanding.’
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10Roasted venison with heritage carrots and beetroot
Mat Worswick, Warehouse Restaurant, Southport
‘There’s a lot of snobbery in food, and I don’t
think it’s warranted,’ says Mat Worswick,
the 26-year-old chef at Warehouse Restaurant
in Southport. ‘I’d rather go to a brasserie and
have a great meal than eat a mediocre one
in a fine dining restaurant.’ He describes the
offering at Warehouse as ‘ambitious food at
brasserie prices. We do really bold food, quite
simple dishes centred on local British flavours
9Beef fillet
(ashed)
Adam Handling, Caxton Grill, London SW1
Still just 25 years old, Adam Handling has
spent years tinkering with a recipe he had
for beef cooked in ash, but it wasn’t until
he visited Massimo Botura’s Osteria
Francescana in Modena, Italy, that the
pieces really fell into place. ‘I was there
filming for MasterChef, and I asked [Botura]
about it. I had been making the ash with
leeks and onions, but I was finding it grainy.
He said, “Start using sof herbs – they’re
mostly water, so they’ll make for a much
smoother ash”.’
‘It’s much more time-consuming and costs
a lot more, but I now use mint, parsley and
tarragon to make the ash, and the flavour is
just phenomenal. We make the ash, powder
it, put it through a tea strainer, then take
a 45-day-aged beef fillet, dust it in the ash
and cook it sous vide.’
Because of the seasonally driven nature
of his cooking, while the key part of the dish
– the beef cooked in ash – remains the same,
the garnish changes over time. ‘In winter it’s
served with foie gras and truffles with olive
oil purée, and in spring it’s wild garlic,
barley, pickled micro girolles and red
watercress.’ caxtongrill.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Beef Wellington – it’s so simple, so classical.
I’d happily eat it every day.’
– stuff people can really appreciate and relate
to. We’re a neighbourhood restaurant, and
people like a proper northern portion here.’
That doesn’t stop Worswick’s food being
stylish, on-trend and highly technical, though,
as demonstrated by his signature dish –
heritage carrots with venison. ‘We use heritage
purple, orange and white carrots, baked in a
salt dough with cumin seeds so that they retain
all their flavour, and we also make a carrot
purée with roasted cumin seeds.’
Once baked, the carrots are pan-roasted
with buter, garlic and thyme before being
served with the pan-roasted venison loin and
a faggot of minced venison and pork fat that’s
been wrapped in crépinete (pork caul) and
fried. Beetroot purée and a crunchy, aromatic
juniper berry garnish the dish, along with
bright green carrot tops. ‘It’s an autumnal
dish, and it’s been on the menu for a year
and a half. The customers love it.’
warehouserestaurant.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘I worked with David Everit-Mathias at
Le Champignon Sauvage, and his bergamot
orange parfait with liquorice cream is perfect.’
exploresignature dishes
104 O SEPTEMBER 2014
BRUNCH IN
MANHATTAN
While it’s ofen overlooked in favour of Manhatan’s trendier districts
(Lower Eastside and Meatpacking), Midtown is one of the best places
in the Big Apple to track down that definitive NYC meal – brunch.
The Peacock at the William Hotel (thepeacocknyc.com) is one
of the hotest spots for brunch this year. Much of the hype is down
to its House Blend burger ($20). A paty made up of New York strip
steak combined with skirt, short rib and chuck beef, this meaty
monster is topped with smoked bacon, Brooklyn brine pickles,
cheddar, red onion, letuce and burger sauce, and served with
triple-cooked chips. Also on the brunch menu is eggs Benedict with
crumpet, bacon, spinach and hollandaise ($15) and scotch pancakes
with caramel maple apples and cinnamon cream ($14), right.
For many New Yorkers, nothing beats a Mexican breakfast, and
British expat chef April Bloomfield's Salvation Taco (salvationtaco.
com), far right, just down the road in Murray Hill, serves a fine
selection of Mexican-inspired brunch dishes. These include
a house-smoked tasso (Louisiana ham) and egg burrito ($10) and
fried fish tacos with Mayan mayo and pickled red onions ($17).
You can always count on America/Korean chef David Chang to
come up with something different, and at his Midtown Momofuku
restaurant Ma Peche (momofuku.com/new-york/ma-peche), an
exciting new brunch menu is based around dim sum. Its rotating
selection of plates includes the likes of cod friters ($8) and chicken
and waffles ($18).
But for the classic midtown Manhatan brunch experience, hold
out until October, when Midtown’s glamorous Rainbow Room
(rainbowroom. com) reopens in the Rockefeller Center. The main
atraction will be a weekly Sunday brunch. Menu items are yet to
be confirmed, but expect elegant, modern interpretations of classic
American dishes.
HOW TO DO IT Return flights
from Gatwick to JFK start from
around £450 (norwegian.com).
Double rooms at Pod 39 cost from
$225 (thepodhotel.com).
CLASSIC CITIES NEW WAYSFrom street food in Rome to craft beer in Copenhagen, discover new ways to enjoy some of the world's foodie cities
Bitesize breaks
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 105
explore rediscovered classics
If you've been inspired by MasterChef winner Ash
Mair's (inset lef) menus at the new London outpost
of Bilbao Berria (bilbaoberria.co.uk) – you can now
explore the region with him, first-hand, on a new
MasterChef Travel tour, taking place next month.
Ash's Basque-cuisine-led menu won the 2011
competition, and on this six-day group tour,
including two days accompanied by him in culinary capital, San
Sebastián, he will reveal his favourite ingredients, food markets,
hidden restaurants and tapas bars. The rest of the trip leads you on
San Sebastián is famous
for pintxos, right
SAN SEBASTIÁN WITH A MASTERCHEFa trail of discovery through the Basque countryside and kitchens
with expert local guides. Sign up and you can delve into its cider
cellars, enjoy pintxos tastings and follow a cooking demo with
lunch at a San Sebastián gastronomic society.
HOW TO DO IT From £1,895 per person, all-inclusive
(masterchefravel.co.uk).
Demand for more affordable dining options has brought delicious
changes to the city’s food scene, not least a growing number of venues
providing high-quality street food. At Trapizzino (trapizzino.it), which
opened in Testaccio in May, thick and spongy pizza corners are
toasted, sliced open and filled with spoonfuls of hearty Roman dishes
like oxtail stew, braised beef, aubergine parmigiana and meatballs
(from €3.50). In April, beloved local chef Arcangelo Dandini launched
Supplizio (supplizio.net) in the Centro Storico. Here, in a space that
resembles a Renaissance lounge, he serves supplì (fried rice balls),
crochete (potato croquetes) and crema frita (fried pastry cream) from
around €3 – a fraction of their cost at his restaurant, L’Arcangelo.
A short stroll away, Forno Campo de’ Fiori (fornocampodefiori.com)
makes a supremely seasonal sandwich, available only from August to
early October, called pizza con prosciuto e fichi – flatbread filled with
ripe figs and sliced prosciuto, or head to historic bakery Antico Forno
Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34), where pizza con la mortazza
(mortadella-filled flatbread) is an inexpensive sandwich served
year-round.
Across the river in Prati, porcheta (deboned roast pork) sandwiches,
are the specialty at Birra e Porcheta (Via Ciro Menoti 32) and the
pizza con la porcheta (roast pork filled flatbread) from Panificio Bonci
(Via Trionfale 36) has to be the city’s most satisfying street-food bite.
HOW TO DO IT Return flights to Rome Ciampino from a range of UK
airports start from around £45 (Ryanair.com). Double rooms
at B&B Cristiana cost from €80 (bbcristiana.com).
STREET FOOD IN ROME
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CRAFT BEER IN
COPENHAGEN
Ten years ago, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø was a Danish schoolteacher and
home brewer. Today, he runs, arguably, the world’s most creative
small brewery, Mikkeller, and exports to 40 countries. Whether
it’s barrel-aging beers, adding exotic fruits to them or brewing for
high-end restaurants like Noma, the world’s beer connoisseurs follow
where Mikkel leads.
To try them out, head to one of his influential Copenhagen bars.
Opened in 2010, the original Mikkeller Bar (Viktoriagade 8BC,
mikkeller.dk) is crisp and quirky in its design, in a city where pubs
have traditionally been dingy, macho spaces. ‘Hardly any customers
come to get drunk,’ says Mikkel. ‘It’s about trying something new
and talking about beer.’ Naturally, Mikkeller has become a pilgrimage
for fanatics keen to try its five, super-fresh house beers or legendary
brews such as the Beer Geek Breakfast, made with ground coffee.
A newer cocktail bar Mikropolis (Vendersgade 22) and Mikkeller
& Friends (Stefansgade 35), which has an impressive 40 beers on
tap, are less touristy. Mikkel also has a restaurant called Øl & Brød
(ologbrod.dk), which majors on beer-paired open-faced smørrebrød
sandwiches, made on thick rye bread – and he’s set to launch a brew
pub, Warpigs later this year (Flæsketorvet 25-37).
Meanwhile, despite not owning a brewery (his recipes are executed
by third-parties, mainly de Proef Brouwerij in Belgium), Mikkel
continues to produce amazing beers at a bewildering rate. As well
as spontaneously fermented beers, he is very excited about the
low- and no-alcohol beers he is working on: ‘Beer you could drink
for breakfast and when you go running? That would be perfect.’
HOW TO DO IT Return flights
from a range of UK airports to
Copenhagen cost from £51
(easyJet.com). Double rooms
at Copenhagen Marriot cost
from £117 (marriot.co.uk).
Le Bal Café
British food, so long disdained, is big news in Paris’s coolest quarters.
Some venues were launched by Brits, like the pioneering Rose
Bakery, an organic café in the 9th arrondissement celebrated for its
carrot cake, €5.50 (46 Rue des Martyrs). Others are French-owned,
such as Beef Club in the 2nd (eccbeefclub.com), where there’s a
Bordeaux-heavy wine list to do justice to a burger with red Leicester
and ogleshield (€23), or entrecôte (€36) raised in Yorkshire by Tim
Wilson from Yorkshire's Ginger Pig.
Frenchie To Go (frenchietogo.com) is a humble takeaway opposite
the high-end neo-bistro Frenchie. It atracts a largely Parisian
clientèle who visit for the scones (served with kumquat jam, €6).
The Sunken Chip (thesunkenchip.com), appropriately located at 39
Rue des Vinaigriers, is clad in white tiles and formica and is
uncannily faithful to the classic fish-and-chip shop, right down to
Sarson’s vinegar, mushy peas and Kate-and-Wills mugs for your
English breakfast tea (fish and chips, €14).
At Le Bal Café (le-bal.fr), a fashionable spot near the Place de Clichy,
are Anna Tratles (formerly at London’s St John restaurant), and
half-English Alice Quillet, who share a love of pies, offal and pickled
walnuts. ‘We wanted to bring something new to Paris,’ says Anna,
who puts on occasional weekend pop-ups with visiting English chefs,
including Lee Tiernan, formally of St John Bread and Wine, and Pit
Cue's Tommy Adams. You’ll find excellent kedgeree (€13), and
bacon and eggs (€12), alongside Luscombe Farm ginger beer, and
proper tea from a Brown Bety teapot. Crucially, though, all the
produce is French (that would be a sacrilege too far), and the
sourdough bread is from Poujauran, one of the most revered
bakeries in Paris.
HOW TO DO IT Return London-Paris fares on Eurostar from £69
(Eurostar.com). Double rooms at chic guesthouse Eliel cost from
€170, B&B (eliel.fr).
ANGLO DINING
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PHOTOGRAPHS, GET THE APP!
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1 Best for coffee Head to Colonna &
Small’s for a serious espresso. The
brews, all double shots (£2.40), change
weekly, there are tasting notes for each one
and the in-house baristas are all experts.
(6 Chapel Row, colonnaandsmalls.co.uk)
2Top-notch produce Visit Bath
Farmers’ Market – the first
of its kind in the UK. On Saturdays
(9am-1.30pm) you can pick up a wedge of
Westcombe Dairy’s tangy Somerset Cheddar
(£15/1kg) or try a pint of Dick Willows’
proper West Country cider (£3). (Green
Park Station, bathfarmersmarket.co.uk)
3Best-value lunch Go to Allium
Brasserie in the Abbey Hotel to enjoy
chef Chris Staines’ elegant cooking
at bargain prices. Two courses – the likes of
salt-baked beetroot salad with goat’s cheese,
hazelnut dressing and grilled gem, and soy
braised pig cheek with carrot and ginger
quinoa and nam jim salad – are just £17.50.
(North Parade, alliumbrasserie. co.uk)
4The afernoon tea Bath buns are up for
grabs at lots of posh hotels in the city.
Bathonians, though, head to Sam’s
Kitchen in the city’s artisan quarter for tea,
cake and fabulous people watching. Try the
white choc chip brownie (£2.70). (61 Walcot
Street, samskitchendeli.co.uk)
5Meat-lover’s treat The place to satisfy
carnivorous cravings is The Chequers.
Owned by the team behind two other
well-regarded Bath pubs, the Marlborough
Tavern and the Hare & Hounds, this double
AA-roseete-winning gastropub offers
popular Sunday roasts (from £13.50), 35-day
dry-aged rib-eye steaks (£22.95) and superb
burgers (£10.95). It’s also a convivial place to
Weekender
BATHWest Country ciders, tangy
cheeses, smoked eel and rhubarb vanilla martinis
are a few of the treats this spa town offers
Words LAURA ROWE
8The gin thing Don’t miss the Canary
Gin Bar, which offers up to 200 gins
to choose from. Try the new Bath
Gin (£7) – it’s flavoured with 10 botanicals
including burnt orange peel and cardamom,
and Thornbury’s 6 O’Clock (£5), mixers
included. (2/3 Queen Street,
thebathgincompany.co.uk)
TRUST O Laura Rowe has lived
and worked in Bath for a decade and is
the editor of local food magazine Crumbs.
HOW TO DO ITOne-bed Halcyon Apartments (thehalcyon.
com), next door to sister restaurant and
cocktail bar, The Porter (theporter.co.uk),
start from £150 per night, b&b. For more,
see visitbath.co.uk. This year’s Great Bath
Feast (greatbathfeast.co.uk), a month-long
food festival, runs from 1 to 31 October.
explore
city break
FOR A FOOD MAP OF BATH
AND MORE TRAVEL TIPS, GET THE APP!
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Allium’s
pan-fried cod
Acorn’s steamed beetroot
Red mullet at The
Chequers
sit and enjoy a pint of Bath Gem ale (£3.90).
(50 Rivers Street, thechequersbath.com)
6The £50 tasting menu Try Menu
Gordon Jones – at this intimate
dining room the dishes are
imaginative and expertly cooked, with
offerings such as Severn & Wye smoked eel
with salted purple potatoes, maple syrup,
cucumber and radish. The waiting list can
be three months long, so you’ll need to book
ahead. All wines are organic and biodynamic.
(2 Wellsway, menugordonjones.co.uk)
7Best for veggies Typical dishes at
Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen include
smoked field mushroom glazed in
a rich mushroom demi-glace with baby
baked potatoes in a mustard and chervil
sauce, salt-baked celeriac purée and market
greens (£15.95). The house cocktails are
always imaginative, too. Rhubarb vanilla
martini (£7.50), anyone? (2 North Parade
Passage, acornvegetariankitchen. co.uk)
The Irish capital isn’t just the place for a pint of the black stuff – these days you can feast on pulled pork sandwiches, tapas and buckets of mussels
in cool cafés, hip food stores and glamorous restaurantsWords MARINA O’LOUGHLIN
DublinPostcard
from
I can’t lie: it’s many years since I’ve
been to Dublin. So long, in fact, that
I was last there with my parents,
staying in a b&b in Rathmines,
where the tight-fisted landlady only toasted
the bread on one side. Back then, Bewley’s,
crooking its dowager-like pinkie on Grafon
Street, was the very height of sophistication.
Things have changed. A lot.
Everywhere we turn there’s a new café,
food store or restaurant. The VAT on food
is low in Ireland, and canny operators are
taking full advantage. You’re almost afraid to
turn your back unless a gourmet burger joint
springs up behind you. My favourite is Bunsen
Burgers in foodie Wexford Street; the thick
paties in pillowy buns are genuinely some of
the finest I’ve had, rosy juices from the Black
Aberdeen chopped steak dribbling down my
chin. (facebook.com/bunsenburger)
Here, as elsewhere, fine dining is making
way for something less starchy. There’s
more trend checklist ticking
of the Nordic kind at
Forest Avenue: chefs John and Sandy Wyer
are the most thrilling thing to hit Ballsbridge
since, well, forever – it’s almost impossible
to get a table. The seasonal menus deliver
food as pleasing to the eye as to the palate:
charred leeks with truffle and scallop; beef
tartare with freshly-grated horseradish.
(forestavenuerestaurant.ie)
There’s also been a flurry of activity from
Ireland’s celebrity chefs: the bullish Oliver
Dunne’s Cleaver East and Fade Street
Social from Dylan McGrath. The later is a
sprawling gastropolis of cocktail bar, tapas
joint, roof terrace and restaurant proper. I
like the buzzy downstairs best, where young
Irish chefs play at being Japanese itamae,
and small plates come thick and fast: riffs
on luxury ingredients married
with comfort food (think lobster hot dogs,
charred venison sausages or weeny fried
crab sandwiches). This is where Dubliners
come to show off. (cleavereast.ie;
fadestreetsocial.com)
I really like Super Miss Sue, from the same
stable as Dillinger’s and The Butcher Grill:
one half old-school ‘chipper’ where the
stonking ‘Cervi’ chips – afer Giuseppe
Cervi, the Italian godfather of Dublin fryers
– are golden and crisp; the other half swish,
Campari-botle-lined seafood restaurant:
heaving shellfish platers, crisp litle crab
croquetes, or a whole, smoky mackerel
served with sea herbs. (supermisssue.com)
You don’t need me to tell you there are pubs
in Dublin. Wonderful pubs – and this from
108 O SEPTEMBER 2014
explore dublin
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 109
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‘The oozing beauty of a washed-rind ardrahan is still haunting me’
Above, lef to right: Fine dining at
The Greenhouse; taking orders
at Crackbird; Sheridan’s cheeses
FOR A RECIPE FOR GUINNESS RAREBIT, GET
THE APP!See page 67
someone who can normally live without
them. Untouched by time, harbouring the
ghosts of writers and a million cigaretes,
they’re living history. We drink Guinness
and Murphy’s in nicotine-stained rooms,
marvelling at the etched glass, wood
panelling – and even, in the case of The
Swan, the ancient mahogany cash desk
behind the bar. Our favourites? The original
Mulligan’s, Kehoe’s, Grogan’s, Neary’s; and
shabby litle Fallon’s (with reputedly the
capital’s best Guinness) in the antiques district
round Francis Street. I’m delighted they still
regard the toastie as a culinary specialty.
For a brand new slant on the historic booze
haunt, the Peruke & Periwig behind St
Stephen’s Green is a fabulously atmospheric
recreation of a Georgian drinking den, with a
menu that’s defiantly 21st century: shoestring
fries and sticky pork ribs. These totems to a
drink-soaked literary past feed my loathing
of the tacky likes of O’Neill’s. (peruke.ie)
Ireland hasn’t yet fully embraced
the gastropub movement. The closest
approximation is in the magnificently-
named northern suburb of Stoneybater,
where L Mulligan, Grocer serves up heaving
platefuls of proper Irish grub to tables of
boisterous fans: seafood from Howth, the
notorious ‘porketarian’ board laden with
apple and pork rilletes, black pudding
croquetes, bacon jam and piccalilli. There
are huge buckets of mussels and even
a chicken Kiev: chichi it most certainly isn’t,
but it’s a blast. (lmulligangrocer.com)
For modernity, we look to café society:
Brother Hubbard, with its award-winning
pulled pork sandwiches the size of small
babies. Or my favourite, The Fumbally,
unpromisingly located in an ugly block of flats
away from the centre of town. Inside, it’s like
a sprawling mash-up of souk, farmers’ market
and street-food festival, the city’s cool youth
beavering away behind the open kitchen to
dish out Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-
spiced delights. Damn fine coffee, too.
(brotherhubbard.ie; thefumbally.ie)
But the new Dublin wave doesn’t exclude
seekers of something a bit upmarket: if you
hanker for posh, head immediately for The
Greenhouse. I'm not usually a fan of haute
cuisine, but this is a warm, glamorous
restaurant, ably served by Finnish chef
Mickael Viljanen. I would happily go back
for his creative amuse-bouches and petit
fours alone, but that would do a disservice to
the skill that goes into his dishes: almost
caramelised, pearly turbot served with the
greenest greens; luxury exuding from a fat,
pink langoustine, Iberico ham and a faint,
sexy hint of coconut; scallop, truffle, confit
egg yolk and beurre Nantais (above, lef).
Irish produce with Finnish sensibilities? To
coin a Dublin superlative: ‘Savage!’
(thegreenhouserestaurant.ie)
By way of exercise (ahem), we take a foodie
tour – the kind of thing that brings me out in
hives. But headed up by knowledgeable
Eveleen Coyle, it’s a great way to find goodies
that simply wouldn’t have occurred to me –
like slurping oysters at the litle food market
at Temple Bar. I was swerving this area, its
pub-lined streets now the preserve of stag
nights and backpackers all searching for the
bloody craic, but this is a small treasure. Then
Eveleen takes us to Sheridan’s – a blissfully
reeking store and temple for turophiles; the
oozing beauty of a washed-rind ardrahan
is still haunting me. (fabfoodtrails.ie;
sheridanscheesemongers. com)
Beneath the new Litle Museum of Dublin,
there’s Hatch & Sons, a ‘traditional Irish
kitchen’ where you can have beef-and-
Guinness stew, smoked salmon from The
Burren, or any number of gorgeous cakes
and scones, brownies and crumbles. Not
forgeting the traditional Wexford blaa –
a fluffy white roll stuffed with Irish cheese
or spiced beef. This is a beautiful space for
celebrating Irish produce a classic Dublin
Georgian house. (hatchandsons.co)
Sure, Bewley’s still there – all fur coat,
no knickers – but just behind it, the streets
now throb with foodie excitement: glorious
food stores such as Fallon & Byrne with
its cool upstairs brasserie; funky chicken
joints like Crackbird. The culinary scene is
unrecognisable – and a gazillion times
beter. Dublin, I’m sorry it’s been so long.
(fallonandbyrne.com; joburger.ie/crackbird)
MARINA O’LOUGHLIN is The Guardian Weekend’s incognito
restaurant critic. She stayed at Number 31: double rooms from
190, b&b (number31.ie). Flights to Dublin from various UK
airports start from around £50 return (ryanair.com). More
information: visitdublin.com
110 O SEPTEMBER 2014
FULLY ESCORTED
PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights from London Gatwick, London Heathrow, Manchester, Newcastle, Stansted, Birmingham or Edinburgh• Four nights in a four-star
hotel with breakfast• Sightseeing tour of historic Bologna• See Ravenna’s 6th century Byzantine mosaics• Guided tour of Parma• Discover how parma ham and balsamic vinegar are made
FULLY ESCORTED PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights to Naples from London Gatwick, London Stansted, LondonLuton, Bristol, Birmingham, East Midlands, Glasgow, Manchester,Newcastle or Dublin
• Seven nights in a choice of three and four-star hotels in Sorrento withbreakfast and dinner
• Walking tour of Sorrento, one of Italy’s most beautiful coastal towns• Cruise to the stunning island of Capri• Visit to the magnificent volcano, Vesuvius• Visit to Naples with its Archaeological Museum• Guided tour of Pompeii, a city frozen in time• Tour of the Amalfi coast – one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world• Visit to Ravello – setting for Wagner’s opera ParsifalVisit the oliriviera.co.uk to see the video
Pompeii, Capri and the Bay of Naples
Selected departures up to October 2014 & April – October 2015
Bologna, Parma & RavennaSelected departures up to October 2014 & April – October 2015
To request a brochure, call 01283 742355
Or to book, visit oliriviera.co.uk
8 daysHALF-BOARD FROM
ONLY £759pp
5 daysFROM ONLY £659pp
There are so many treasures and new experiences waiting for you on a Riviera Travel, Escorted tour. So when you come on a trip with us we’ll make sure you see not just the famous sights and unmissable places, but some of the unexpected and undiscovered corners that far fewer people know about. Whether you’re looking for cultural gems, breathtaking landscapes, bustling cities or some rural tranquillity, you can find it all in Europe. There are tours from a short three day break to a full two week holiday.
READER OFFERS
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 111
Andalucía is one of the most beautiful corners of Europe,
where the excesses of modern life haven’t taken root and
travellers are welcomed as honoured guests. Immortalised
by the writings of Ernest Hemingway and beloved by Orson Welles,
it is the Spain of Carmen, Figaro and Flamenco. Rich with the
legacies of the Moors and Romans, its charm and serenity will
captivate you.
FULLY ESCORTED PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights to Malaga from London Gatwick, Bristol, East Midlands,Glasgow, Edinburgh, Belfast International, Dublin, Leeds/Bradford,Birmingham, Luton, Manchester, Newcastle, Exeter or Southampton
• Six nights bed and breakfast at excellent three and four-star hotels,staying in Seville, Granada and Mijas
• Experience unspoiled Andalucía• Guided tour of Seville – city of the Conquistadors• Guided tour of the stunning Alhambra in Granada• Visit to Cordoba – one of the most dramatic cities in Spain• Visit to Ronda - one of the most spectacularly situated cities in SpainVisit the oliriviera.co.uk to see the video
Classical Spain - Seville, Cordoba & Granada Selected departures up to November 2014 & March – November 2015
Terms and Conditions: Holidays organised by and booking conditions with Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance available at a supplement. Data Protection: Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of O would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these.
SicilySelected departures up to October 2014 & April – October 2015
Sicily, the beautiful island off the southernmost tip of Italy
is breathtaking with uninhabited countryside, a spectacular
coastline and the snow-capped Mount Etna. The Carthaginians,
Romans, Normans, Spanish, French and Italians have all conquered it,
and their relics include temples, amphitheatres, villas and old towns.
FULLY ESCORTED PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights to Catania from London Gatwick, Manchester or Dublin• Seven nights in four-star hotels with breakfast and dinner • Guided tour of Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples• Visit to Palermo, Sicily’s capital with its medieval and baroque centre• Visit Taormina - one of Italy’s most beautiful and stylish hilltop villages • Visit to Mount Etna – Europe’s largest active volcano• Guided tour of Monreale’s medieval cathedral and cloisters• Guided tour of Siracusa – city of ArchimedesSee the website to view our video
8 daysHALF-BOARD FROM
ONLY £829pp
7 daysFROM ONLY £539pp
Modern menu speak
A ‘phosphate’ is a cocktail ingredient making a comeback. Originally a soda fountain speciality, it adds acidity and a savoury edge to drinks. Find cucumber phosphate in a Riot Cup Number One at
the Peg and Patriot. £9, pegandpatriot.com
Smart cooks... taste food before they
serve it. Taste everything (not every spud you cooked, obvs), even
dressed salad
Kitchen tipLEAK-PROOF FOIL PARCELSThe boffins at Bacofoil tried out some different
parcel styles for me: this is what they think is
foolproof. Put your food on a sheet of foil and
fold the bottom edge up to meet the top one so
that the food is inside. Next fold the two
bottom corners over into diagonals. Then fold
in the sides twice, and finally fold down the
top edge. To serve, open the top edge gently
and then fold down the top layer.
112 O SEPTEMBER 2014
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O’s deputy editor shares essential kitchen skills, new teas to try, how to cheat at cold brewing coffee and why you need a jar spatula
BREW TEA CO. Whole rolled leaf tea
from India and Sri
Lanka, this has a
great colour and
nice bright flavour.
It tastes how tea
should. £4.49
for 15 bags,
brewteacompany.
co.uk
RARE TEA CO.Royal Air Force tea
from the Makaibari
estate in Darjeeling,
India and Satemwa
estate in Malawi.
Fruity with an edge
of sweetness, and
good with or without
milk. £5/50g,
rareteacompany.com
TEA PALACEAssam superior,
whole leaf black tea
with a malty edge,
this makes a very
posh cup of builders.
£4.75 for a
sample caddy,
teapalace.co.uk
WE ARE TEAEnglish breakfast is
a blend of Assam
and Darjeeling
giving the malty
flavour of the former
pepped up with the
floral notes of the
latter. £3.39/15
bags, wearetea.com
Which tea should I use?Not all teas are created equal, these 4 great brews are made with care from
whole leaf tea, and are worth the extra few pence per cup
Lulu’s notes
lulusnotes.com @lulugrimes
log on tolulusnotes.com
If you haven’t yet visited O’s blog, lulusnotes.
com, please do. It’s where we put news about ingredients and products that have missed our print
deadlines, cocktails we think are worth drinking, snippets of info we’ve picked up about emerging
trends and, most importantly, some of our best-ever recipes like chorizo toad in the hole
and cinnamon doughnuts. Please email [email protected] if you
have any recipe requests.
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 113
lulu’s notes
tips & techniques
1. Roll your pastry out
by pressing down on
it with even pressure
rather than stretching
it to fit the tin, then
rest it to allow the
gluten to relax.
2. Line the pastry
with baking paper
and enough dried
beans or rice to keep
the base from puffing
up as it cooks. You
can prick the base but
make sure you don’t
prick through the
pastry.
3. If you are adding
a liquid filling, for
example a lemon tart,
then brush the cooked
case with a lightly
beaten egg white and
set it in the oven for a
minute. This will make
it waterproof.
ESSENTIAL TIPS FOR MAKING A PASTRY
CASE
MEAT-FREE MONDAY
red peppers 2, halved
yellow pepper 1, halved
oil 1 tbsp
mozzarella 2 x 150g balls, each ball
sliced into 3
DRESSING
lemon 1,juiced
garlic 1 clove, crushed
red chilli 1, finely chopped
pine nuts 2 tbsp, toasted
parsley a small bunch, chopped
olive oil
• Whisk all the dressing ingredients with
3 tbsp olive oil and season. Scrape the
seeds out of each pepper half then rub the
halves with a little oil. Barbecue, griddle or
grill, cut side down, for 5 minutes until the
edges are charred and starting to soften.
Turn the peppers over, and sit a slice of
mozzarella in each half. Cook for another
5-10 minutes until the cheese has melted
and the bases of the peppers have softened.
If you like your mozzarella crisp, then
flash the peppers briefly under the grill.
Arrange the peppers on a platter and
drizzle with the dressing.
PER SERVING 471 KCALS | PROTEIN 21.1G | CARBS 9.2G | FAT
39.1G | SAT FAT 15.1G | FIBRE 2.5G | SALT 1.02G.
Peppers with mozzarella, chilli and pine nuts 30 MINUTES | SERVES 3 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
114 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Banana loaf with passion fruit frostingTAKES 1 1/2 HOURS | SERVES 10 | EASY
butter 75g, softened
soft brown sugar 110g
plain flour 125g
wholemeal flour 75g
baking powder 2 tsp
eggs 2
very ripe bananas 4, mashed
pecans 75g, each snapped in half
FROSTING
butter 75g
cream cheese 75g
icing sugar 150g
passion fruit 3, halved and seeds and
pulp scooped out
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan160C/gas 4.
Beat the butter, sugar, flours, baking powder,
eggs and banana together.
• Stir in the nuts and spoon into a lined and
buttered 450g loaf tin. Bake for 1¼ - 1½
hours or until a skewer comes out clean.
Cool for 10 minutes in the tin then lift out
and cool on a rack.
• To make the frosting beat the butter until
soft, beat in the cream cheese and then the
sugar and 2 tbsp passion fruit juice. Frost the
loaf and drizzle over the remaining juice,
leave seeds in if you like or sieve them out.
PER SERVING 428 KCAL | PROTEIN 5.2G | CARBS 49.4G
FAT 22.7G | SAT FAT 10.9G | FIBRE 2.5G | SALT 0.6G
SEE PAGE 122
LAST BITE
WHY BUY
A JAR SPATULABecause nothing is as satisfying as being able
to scrape the last of the mayo out of the jar.
A spoon or knife doesn’t do the job nearly as
well. I like the all-in-one-piece spatulas in the
‘I can cook’ range at lakeland.co.uk, they’re
meant for kids but work perfectly. £2.99
Wine list starThe FMC Chenin Blanc 2012, Stellenbosch,
South Africa 14.5%
Chenin blanc was once the workhorse grape variety of South Africa.
Grown for simple white wines and for distillation, its real character
was lost in dilute, over-cropped grapes. But winemaker Ken Forrester
sought out old vines where the yields are low and concentration is
high. With his winemaker friend, Michael Meinert (FMC = Forrester
Meinert Chenin), he has created a top-quality chenin blanc, packed
with lemon, apricot and honeysuckle flavours. It has been aged in oak,
which has added complexity without intruding on the fruit. This wine
goes wonderfully with creamy fish pie, onion tart and roast pork belly.
Find The FMC on the list at High Timber in London and at The Bath
Priory, or buy it to drink at home from Great Western Wine Co, Bath,
or from Field and Fawcett, York at around £24.50.
Christine Austin
How to cheat atCOLD BREW COFFEECold brew may well be one of the new wave
items on offer at your local temple to coffee.
Unless you are a complete coffee nut, you
probably haven’t had the time, inclination, or
money to build your own cold-brew system,
so a pre-made bottle could be the answer.
We’ve tasted a few, and we like Sandow’s,
available from sandowslondon.co.uk
or at Selfridges until 1 Sep. £3.95
lulu’s notes
tips & techniques
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 115
WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUT GELATO O’s resident food adventurer, Gregor Shepherd,
guides you through techniques that may seem daunting but
which, in fact, are worth spending time over
There are, no doubt, several people who don’t like ice cream, but I can’t
fathom their objections. Ice cream has to be a astoundingly nasty not to
be enjoyable, and such aberrations are now scarce. It wasn’t always
like this – even though I’ve always loved ice cream, however low-rent,
my first trip to Italy saw me averaging two cones a day, astonished in
and grateful for my discovery of gelato.
All ice cream is called ‘gelato’ in Italy, but the difference between the
two as they are usually known in the UK is that gelato, in general, uses
less fat (more milk as opposed to cream, and fewer, if any, eggs) is
churned less, so it has less air in it, and is served less cold than what is
usual for ‘ice cream’, all of which often gives a fuller flavour.
Snowflake Luxury Gelato in Soho makes its own in-store from organic
Jersey milk and quality seasonal ingredients, as well as a wide range of
sorbettos, and has started offering courses in gelato and sorbetto
making. Head chef and ‘gelataio’ Paolo Riviecchio takes groups of six
through making gelato and sorbetto, followed by tasting in the shop
above, plus the sorbetto and gelato they’ve made to take home. When I
took the course, the group I was in was joking about eating both tubs on
the way home, but I take such matters seriously.
snowflakegelato.co.uk, £50 per person.
Find O’s recipe for gelato on lulusnotes.com from 15 August.
LOBSTER/CRAB CRACKERSAfter spending an hour or so trying to dismantle a crab using a
rolling pin and chopstick I decided it was time to invest in some
proper seafood gadgets. The rolling pin method works perfectly
well, but you do tend to spray your fellow diners with shell; these
crackers are friendlier. Once you’ve broken through the shell, a
pick with a forked end and a scoop will help you access all the
nooks and crannies. Crackers £4, picks £4.50, souschef.co.uk.
GADGET GURU
TO SEE THESE IN ACTION
GET THE APP!See page 67
116 O SEPTEMBER 2014
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USE IT UPBrilliant ideas for ingredients
left over from this month’s recipes
READY IN 20 MINUTESGround almond crumbed chickenSERVES 2
Mix 50g ground almonds with ½ tsp
cayenne pepper and ½ tsp paprika and
season well. Slice 2 chicken breasts into
strips, dip into seasoned flour, then into
a beaten egg, then coat in the almond mix.
Fry in a little oil for 2 minutes each side until
cooked through and golden. Serve with
a squeeze of lemon.
LUNCH FOR ONEQuesadillas with pickled jalapeñosSERVES 1
Mix ½ diced red onion, 1 diced tomato,
3 chopped pickled jalapeño rings and
4 tbsp cheddar. Sandwich between 2
tortillas and dry fry for 3 minutes each side
until toasted and the cheese has melted.
SIMPLE STARTERButered spring onions with prawnsSERVES 4
Melt about 50g butter in a large frying pan
with a bay leaf and 1 whole garlic clove.
Blanch 12 trimmed spring onions in boiling
salted water for 5 minutes and drain. Remove
the garlic, swirl the spring onions in the butter,
and fry for 5 minutes until softened. Add a pack
of cooked and peeled prawns to warm
though for 2 minutes. Scatter with a handful of
parsley, season and serve with crusty bread.
POTATO SALAD WITH A TWISTCornichon and spring onion potato saladSERVES 2
Mix 5 tbsp mayonnaise, 2 tbsp soured
cream, 3 sliced cornichons, a handful
chopped dill, 2 sliced spring onions and
a squeeze of lemon. Toss though 400g cooked
new potatoes and season. Serve with fish.
SUMMER BERRY PUDGround almond crumblesSERVES 6
Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
Rub 150g plain flour with 150g butter to
make breadcrumbs, then stir in 50g porridge
oats, 50g ground almonds and 100g
demerara sugar. Toss together a mix of
seasonal berries and pile into 6 ovenproof
dishes. Top with the crumble mix and bake for
20-25 minutes until the berries are soft and the
top is lightly golden.
A COMFORTING SIDESof polenta with parmesan and hazelnutsSERVES 2
Pour enough hot vegetable stock over 100g
instant polenta to a smooth, spoonable mix.
Stirring continually over a low heat, add 50g
grated parmesan and a dash olive oil.
Season. Top with a handful chopped toasted
hazelnuts, a few rocket leaves and more
parmesan. Serve with stews or ragoûts.
QUICK VEGGIE LUNCHHalloumi and mint pesto pitasSERVES 2
Whizz together a large handful each mint
and basil leaves, 30g pine nuts, 3 tbsp
grated parmesan, 1 garlic clove and enough
olive oil to make the pesto. Season well. Thickly
slice 150g halloumi and fry for 2 minutes
each side until charred. Pile into toasted pitta
breads with slices of roasted red pepper,
tomato and a handful of rocket leaves. Add
a drizzle of the pesto and serve warm.
SWEET TREATMarzipan, chocolate and desiccated coconut trufflesSERVES 8
Roll tbsp-sized pieces of white marzipan
into balls and dip into melted dark chocolate.
Put on a sheet of baking paper, sprinkle with
desiccated coconut and allow to dry.
A NEW WAY WITH SALMONSalmon with chipotles in abodo glazeSERVES 2
Blend 2 chipotles in abodo with 2 tbsp
honey and the juice of 1 lime to a smooth
paste. Season and rub over 2 salmon
fillets. Grill for 5 minutes or until cooked
through. Serve with lime wedges and a few
coriander leaves.
PERFECT WITH BURGERSRed cabbage with apple andbrown mustard seedsSERVES 2
Finely shred ¼ red cabbage and mix with
1 cored and shredded apple. Toss with 1 tsp
brown mustard seeds, 1 tbsp cider
vinegar and a pinch of sugar, then season.
Pile onto burgers or hotdogs.
NIBBLE FOR DRINKSMexican pinto bean dip SERVES 6
Soak 100g pinto beans overnight in water.
Drain, rinse and boil for 50 minutes until soft.
Dice 2 tomatoes, 1 avocado, ½ red
onion, and mix with a bunch chopped
coriander and the juice of 1 lime. Mash the
beans with a fork, add a glug of olive oil.
And the tomato mix, season and add another
squeeze of lime if you like. Serve with tortilla
chips, breadsticks or crisps.
IMPROMPTU DESSERTGrilled plums with vanilla mascarpone SERVES 4
Mix 200g mascarpone, 1 tsp vanilla
extract and 1 tbsp amaretto (or other
liqueur). Stone and halve 8 plums, sprinkle
the flesh with a pinch brown sugar and grill
for 5 minutes until softened and starting to
caramelise. Add a spoonful of the mascarpone
mix into the centre of each hot plum and serve
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118 O SEPTEMBER 2014
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Our promise to youTriple-tested recipes We test our recipes
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The odd challenge Weekends are for
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Good value Janine’s Cheap Eats shows you
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Healthy eating 80% healthy, 20%
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International savvy British is good, but
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A new twist on
a classic bake
Recipe on page 114
Banana loaf with passion fruitfrosting
122 O SEPTEMBER 2014
last bite
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