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Zero-waste fashion

Zero-waste fashion refers to items of clothing that generate little or no textile waste intheir production.[1][2][3][4] It can be considered to be a part of the broaderSustainable

fashion movement. It can be divided into two general approaches. Pre-consumer zero-waste fashion eliminates waste during manufacture.Post-consumerzero-waste fashion

generates clothing from post-consumer garments such as second-hand clothing,eliminating waste at what would normally be the end of theproduct use life of a garment.

Zero-waste fashion is not a new concept [5] - early examples of zero-waste or near zero-

waste garments includeKimono, Sari,Chiton and many other traditional folk costumes.

Contents

Pre-consumer zero-waste designTwo general approaches fall under this category, both of which occur during a garment's

initial production. In zero-waste fashion design the designer creates a garment through

the pattern cutting process, working within the space of the fabric width. [6] This approachdirectly influences the design of the final garment as the pattern cutting process is a

primary design step. It is difficult to design a zero-waste garment solely through

sketching, although sketching can be a useful speculative tool. Zero-waste manufacture,of which zero-waste design is a component, is a holistic approach that can eliminate

textile waste without modifying the garment patterns.

Zero-waste pattern designers

Designers that have used this approach, or approaches to cutting that have an affinity

with zero-waste fashion design, include

Ernesto ThayahtShreya Upadhyaya

Bernard Rudofsky

Claire McCardellZandra Rhodes

Siddhartha Upadhyaya

Yeohlee TengJulian Roberts

Timo Rissanen

Holly McQuillan

Tara St JamesJennifer Whitty

Samuel Formo

Mark Liu

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-1%23cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-2%23cite_note-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-3%23cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-4%23cite_note-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post-consumer_wastehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post-consumer_wastehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Life-cycle_assessmenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-5%23cite_note-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimonohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimonohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiton_(costume)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Folk_costumehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-6%23cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thayahthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernard_Rudofskyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claire_McCardellhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zandra_Rhodeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Siddhartha_Upadhyaya&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Yeohlee_Teng&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julian_Robertshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Timo_Rissanen&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Holly_McQuillan&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tara_St_James&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jennifer_Whitty&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Samuel_Formo&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mark_Liu&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-1%23cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-2%23cite_note-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-3%23cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-4%23cite_note-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post-consumer_wastehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Life-cycle_assessmenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-5%23cite_note-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimonohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiton_(costume)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Folk_costumehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-6%23cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thayahthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernard_Rudofskyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claire_McCardellhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zandra_Rhodeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Siddhartha_Upadhyaya&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Yeohlee_Teng&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julian_Robertshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Timo_Rissanen&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Holly_McQuillan&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tara_St_James&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jennifer_Whitty&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Samuel_Formo&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mark_Liu&action=edit&redlink=1

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David Telfer

Julia Lumsden

MaterialByProductKatherine Soucie

Zero-waste manufacture

Approaches can include the use of technology such as whole garment knitting and the

relatively new DPOL a patent by designer Siddhartha Upadhyaya, but often waste is

eliminated by reusing the off-cuts in other products. Designers and companies that haveused these approaches include:

Alabama Chanin

August (DPOL) by Siddhartha Upadhyaya

Issey MiyakePretcastle by Shreya Upadhyaya & Siddhartha Upadhyaya

Sans SoucieWorn Again

Differences from standard fashion production

A standard garment production process may begin with a drawing of the desired garment,

a pattern is then generated to achieve this design, a marker is made to most efficiently usethe fabric (without modifying the pattern shapes), the pattern pieces are then cut from the

cloth, sewn, packed and distributed to retailers. Standard garment production generates

and average of 15% textile waste[7] due to the stratification or hierarchy of the garmentproduction process.

Post-consumer zero-waste

This design approach utilises the remnants of the fashion cycle to produce new garments

from second hand or surplus goods. Practitioners include:

Martin MargielaGoodone

Pretcastle

Nick CaveSans Soucie

Worn Again

Waste elimination hierarchy

The waste hierarchyconsists of the three 'R's' - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, in order ofimpact. Zero-waste fashion design eliminates pre-consumer textile waste, while not

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Telferhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Julia_Lumsden&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=MaterialByProduct&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katherine_Souciehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alabama_Chanin&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=DPOL&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Issey_Miyakehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pretcastle&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sans_Souciehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Worn_Again&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-7%23cite_note-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Margielahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Goodone&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nick_Cave_(performance_artist)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waste_hierarchyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waste_hierarchyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Telferhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Julia_Lumsden&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=MaterialByProduct&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katherine_Souciehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alabama_Chanin&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=DPOL&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Issey_Miyakehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pretcastle&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sans_Souciehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Worn_Again&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion#cite_note-7%23cite_note-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Margielahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Goodone&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nick_Cave_(performance_artist)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waste_hierarchy

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necessarily addressing waste created during the use life and disposal phase of the

garment's life cycle.

Notable contributions

Dorothy Burnham: Cut My Cotefrom 1973 was a seminal text that summariseddecades of Burnham's research into cuts of traditional dress.

Madeleine Vionnet's design approach aligns itself well to zero waste fashion

design and many of her garments had minimal waste.

Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen's bookShaping Sustainable Fashion includes a

number of references to zero waste fashion

http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dorothy_Burnham&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cut_My_Cote&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cut_My_Cote&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeleine_Vionnethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeleine_Vionnethttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alison_Gwilt&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Timo_Rissanen&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Shaping_Sustainable_Fashion&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dorothy_Burnham&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cut_My_Cote&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeleine_Vionnethttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alison_Gwilt&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Timo_Rissanen&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Shaping_Sustainable_Fashion&action=edit&redlink=1