Your Technical Guide

Everything for the jewellery maker delivered next day

September 2014Technical guide

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FAQsCleaning and finishingStart solderingUnit conversion

Table of comparative weightsMetal gauge conversion chart

Ring sizingCooksongold Cheat SheetPLUS fantastic tips from our customers

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Your technicalguide

2472 Student Tech Guide 2014 A5_v4.indd 1 03/09/2014 18:39

ERE AT CookSongoLd, we don’t just provide you with everything for the jewellery maker (and, of course, the jewellery making student!) delivered next day.

Our years of experience in the industry also make us an invaluable source of hints, tips and useful advice whether you’re a student taking their first steps in jewellery making or coming to

the end of your course.

Either way, you’ll find this technical guide a constant and essential companion in helping you make sure you get things right both in your student days and beyond.

H

FAQs:Why do I have to use different tweezers when using pickle and soldering?If you use ferrous metal tweezers in picklethe copper oxides in the pickle will becomesuspended in the solution. This can cause yourpieces to be contaminated and the silver to beplated with copper.

To stop this from happening make sure youuse either brass or plastic tweezers to removeyour pieces from the pickle. The same reactionhappens if you leave the binding wire on, so becareful to remove it before pickling.

Why do you anneal? Annealing is done by heating the metal, making it soft so you can shape it further. You must anneal in between forming metal to make sure you don’t crack the metal as you work with it.

Should I be using a mask while I polish? Use a mask and protective goggles to protect your eyes.

What can I use to protect my fingers while polishing? Use finger tape, wrap it around your fingers firmly but make sure you’ve still got plenty of movement. This will protect your fingers but allow you to polish.

What does pickle do? It removes oxides and dirt from the surface of precious metal after soldering.

Why do you have to use different grades of emery paper? Different grades of emery paper remove scratches from the surface. You’ll need to work down through the grades from coarse to fine. Once you’ve reached the finest, the surface will be ready for polishing.

Why do you have to use different grades of files? What’s the difference?Cut 00 (very coarse), Cut 2 (medium) and Cut 4 (fine). Different shapes can be useful for different sections of files. Triangular files in section are useful when filing ‘tight’ corners/angles; sharp edges allow the file to fit into corners when filing. Half round files are used for filing curved surfaces and are especially useful for filing internal curves.

How can I prolong the life of my files? Make sure you file away from yourself. Using a backwards/forwards motion will blunt the file. Keep files clean using a file brush and store in a dry place.

What’s a vernier gauge?This is used to get a precise measurement of a thickness of metal. It can be used to get internal or external dimensions.

What are the benefits of the different solders?Hard solder is best for the majority of soldering as it has the closest colour match to silver. To do multiple joints you should go down through the grades from hard through medium to easy and extra easy as they have lower melting points as

you go down the grades. Also easy solder can be used for fine joins that need to keep heat to a minimum.

How do I change a saw blade? Make sure you put the saw blade in so that the teeth face downwards. Check the tension before sawing. If it’s too loose, the blade will snap and not saw smoothly.

How can I create a polished finish on a hard to reach area? Use a burnisher. We offer a range of sizes, curved or straight, to reach different parts of your piece.

What’s the difference between the rawhide mallet and a metal hammer?A rawhide mallet causes less damage to the work

piece and is less noisy. A metal hammer will move and stretch the metal further than a rawhide so use a metal hammer if you

want to flatten out the end of a wire.

I’m having trouble deciding how much silver sheet to buy for a bangle. How do I go about sizing?Standard bangles are generally 80mm indiameter so you would need to multiply thisby Pi (3.14) to get the circumference and thelength needed which in this case would beabout 250mm.

What can I use to hold my work in place while I solder? Third hands (999 AAA) are great for using the reverse action tweezers as you can hold the metal precisely in place but you won’t get burnt while you solder.

Third hand

Tweezers

or digital

Regular...

Pickling

Mauro C

ateb

a silver stripAnnealing

Mauro C

ateb

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03

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999 026

999 Cdk

2472 Student Tech Guide 2014 A5_v4.indd 2-3 03/09/2014 18:39

Cleaningand finishing

What if I can’t get into the area with Wet and dry? Use abrasive tape/crocus cord. This is like wet and dry string and can be used to thread into holes and other hard to reach areas such as settings. It’s currently only available in fine with different thicknesses - 2.38mm (998 168), 1.02mm (998 170) and 0.38mm (998 210).

Radial Abrasive discs. We sell a great value set (999 1967) containing 6 pieces of 3 grades or 2 of each grade when made up. These are great for cleaning details without being too harsh

with the bristles allowing the discs to get into the grooves and fine

details of a piece.

PolishingMops for aPendant Motor. Made of calico/cotton and felt, on cooksongold.com you’ll find the different shapes we have available. Always use a different mop for each compound. Start with a general compound (999 2093) small bar. This is good for most metals. Then rouge (998 189) small bar for final stage polishing.

Ultrasonic. This is to remove the polishing compound at each stage and at the end of polishing. Use an ultrasoniccleaner like 997 1306. This can be used with sea clean (999 AkJ1) for more effective cleaning.

How does an Ultrasonic work? This piece of equipment uses ultrasonic waves. The vibration generated creates tiny bubbles that lift the dirt gently away from the piece. This is useful for getting the polishing compound out of awkward areas. Do not put porous items in the tank.

What if I can’tget into a small area after polishing?We sell a product called polishing thread (999 CBA) which is like a string that can be used in a similar way to floss to get into holes and around settings.

Once all the scratches have been removed there are several options:

Polishing Pads (998 027B)

are used to remove

tarnish. Abrasive Pads

(975 125) can be used dry or with

water. These are flexible rubber pads used for sanding, pre bonded with aluminium oxide abrasives. Sanding Pads (999 SS01) are similar to Wet and Dry. If you rinse them after each use they should last much longer compared with Wet and Dry.

This is to ensure that all the scratches are removed or reduced at each grade. Have you tried the wet and dry sticks? (999 FAJ is ahalf round).

Thesesticks aregreat for moreprecise work and thehalf round is ideal for inside rings.

Pumice canbe used oncethe piece hasbeen rinsedafter being in the pickle (998 224). It is not really essential but is a good start to the cleaning and finishing process. It can be used with a nail brush to scrub the item quite vigorously (if the piece is not too delicate of course). A toothbrush can also be used to get into harder to reach areas. The green scouring pads used for dishes are great to use with pumice as they are really flexible.

Wet and dry. Good practice is to go through the grades from 240 (975 020),320 (975 030),400 (975 500),600 (975 060),800 (975 070),1000 (975 080)to 1200 (975 090).

Pendant Motor. An essential piece of kit! Use with various attachments for cleaning-up. From sander rolls and abrasive discs to polishing mops, this tool offers an even and efficient finish.

Rubber Burrs. These can be used alongside or instead of Wet and Dry. The different shapes available are: Blue (coarse) - hard yet flexible. Grey (medium) - suitable for trimming castings. Brown (fine) - creates a matt finish. Green (extra fine) - for high lustre polishing.

Selvyt PolishingCloth Set(999 096X) Silver cloth for removing tarnish. Rouge cloth for shining up gold. Soft cloth for gems and watch glass.

Again, good for mostmetals. Then blueDialux for finepolishing (998 217).Then grey Dialuxfor superfinefinishing (998 218).

Brass Brush. This is a quick and easy way to brighten up the metal. Use with a detergent such as a grease-removing washing up liquid. The brush must be used with soap especially on silver to help prevent the brass leaving yellow marks.

there are a couple of options for cleaning:

After soldering and pickling

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Borax dish (for mixing the borax). If you’re new to soldering, it will take a little while to get the consistency right. Just add a little water and grind the cone in the dish. It should achieve the consistency of single cream. Then apply the flux to the join and over a little of the surrounding area (999 AAI).

Flux Brush. This is not a special brush. This particular brush is just less likely to leave behind bristles which can contaminate the join as the flux is brushed on (bristles are bad because they can contaminate the join as they burn).

Torch. We would recommend a hand torch if youare soldering small items like jump rings. If youare working on larger items like bangles you willneed a larger torch, for example this Seivert (999 AkZ1). The Seivert allows you to adjust the flame to suit a variety of tasks.

“If you want to make the same size loop all the time I have used a permanent marker and marked on the round nose pliers where I want to make my loop and they come out the same size”.Karen Anthony Saxby

“keep a notebook at your workbench and write down everything from the size of wire/sheet you’re using to techniques used to make a certain project. When the project is finished, you can refer back to your notes and make any changes accordingly to the next one. This is invaluable if you’re self learning and also makes the pricing at the end so much easier”.Sian Willamson

“draw what you have in mind; write down what you need to create it”.Gabriella Feliciane

“When soldering a ring, loop or jump, always start by heating the area opposite the join first. As the metal heats up and expands it will push your join closer together. If you start by aiming the flame directly at the join it will open and move apart as the metal expands leading to a gap, a failed soldering attempt and a little bad language”.Charlotte Berry

“If you find you’ve made your bezel a little high, simply place a jump ring inside to fit the diameter, to raise the stone”.Jax Ostrowka

“When setting cabochons, I cover the stone in a bit of masking tape to avoid any scratches if you slip when pushing the bezel wire round the stone”.Rita Balfour

“Read all the tips from the lovely cooksongold.com users and use the forum. The advice these people freely give is priceless”.Kim Presky

Soldering Block. This is to solder on. Don’t use normal bricks as they will absorb the heat away from the piece preventing the piece to be soldered from getting hot enough.

Pickle. You’ll need this once the piece has been soldered: 1. Because the flux will have left sections of the piece covered in a glassy hard substance which would be difficult to get off otherwise and 2. Because the piece is likely to be ‘fire stained’. When you heat metal to a high enough temperature, thecopper in the metal will react with the oxygen in the air and oxidise.

Pickle Unit (999 AFd). A glass container can also be used in a warm water bath. The pickle should be used warm to speed up the process. When the item comes out of the pickle it will be white in appearance.It can then be rinsed and cleaned with Pumice (998 224) then Wet and Dry through the grades. Then it can be polished etc. It can also be finished with a brass brush (999 173) which will brighten up the metal after the wet and dry.

Startsoldering

What you will need:Solder. Whether you are solderingprecious or non precious metal werecommend working through thegrade from Hard down to Easy.

Borax. This is a natural mineral with the least toxic flux which absorbs oxygen to create a better environment for the solder to flow in. (998 098).

1: Preplacement (Pallions).Small pieces of solder are placed at the joint seam prior to heating. Heat is then applied until the solder flows into the joint.

2: Feeding. The fluxed joint is heated to temperature and the tip of the solder wire is fed into the joint and should melt on contact.

• Ensure your metal is clean and your join is completely flush

• Apply flux to the join

• Heat piece evenly. Remember the solder will flow to the hottest area

Higher temperatures may then be required to complete the joint. The time and temperature required to complete a joint must be kept to a minimum.

Usegogglesandgloves

Hints, tips & advicefrom our lovely customers

There are two general techniquesused to apply solid solder:


Table ofcomparative weights Unit conversion

Multiply the known unit by the figure to the right of the measurement you desire. For instance, how many grains are in 3 carats?The model of a man’s signet ring has been made

out of silver and weighs 7.9 grams. Looking at the table along the sterling silver horizontal line and then matching this with the intersection of the 18ct yellow gold HB gives the number 1.50.

Known x # from chart = Answer 3 x 3.0865 = 9.2595

7.90 grams x 1.50 =11.85 grams in yellow HB gold

Carats to grains x 3.0865 to grams x 0.2 to milligrams x 200

grains to carats x 0.324 to grams x 0.0648 to milligrams x 64.799 to oz, avoir x 0.002286 to oz, troy x 0.00208 to pennyweight x 0.04167

grams to carats x 5 to grains x 15.4324 to oz, avoir x 0.03527 to oz, troy x 0.03215 to pennyweight x 0.64301

kilograms to oz, avoir x 35.274 to oz, troy x 32.1507 to pennyweight x 643.015 to lb, avoir x 2.2046 to lb, troy x 2.6792

oz, to grains x 437.5Avoirdupois to grams x 28.3495 to oz, troy x 0.91146 to pennyweight x 18.2291 to lb, troy x 0.07595

oz, to grains x 480Troy to grams x 31.1035 to oz, avoir x 1.0971 to pennyweight x 20 to lb, avoir x 0.06857

Pennyweights to grains x 24 to grams x 1.5551 to oz, avoir x 0.05486

Lbs, to grains x 7000Avoirdupois to grams x 453.59 to kilograms x 0.4536 to oz, troy x 14.5833

Lbs, to grains x 480Troy to grams x 31.1035 to oz, avoir x 1.0971 to pennyweight x 20 to lb, avoir x 0.06857

Feet to centimetres x 30.48 to metres x 0.3048

Metres to feet x 3.2808 to inches x 29.37 to yards x 1.0936

Millimetres to feet x 0.00328 to inches x 0.03937 to centimetres x 2.54 to metres x 0.0254

Cubic cm to cubic inches x 0.061 to US fl. oz. x 0.0338

Cubic inches to cubic cm x 16.387 to litres x 0.01639 to US fl. oz. x 0.554

US gallons to litres x 3.785 to cubic inches x 231 to cubic feet x 0.1337

Litres to US gallons x 0.2642 to US quarts x 1.0567

Useful information for every year of your course:To use the table below, simply take the unit figure of the metal to which comparison is required and then follow the line to the right or left of this figure that is the relative weight unit for the chosen metal. Typically, a silver model may be made for subsequent casting using the cuttlefish method producing a casting in 18ct yellow gold HB.

For example...For example...

Pu

re

Pla

tin

um

Fin

e

gold

22

ct

dS

18

ct

MW

18

ct

HB

14ct

AY

gW

P

allad

ium

9ct

dF

Ste

rlin

g

Silve

r

Cop

per

Bra

ss

(90

/10

)

Wax

Pure 1.00 0.90 0.83 0.75 0.72 0.60 0.54 0.52 0.48 0.42 0.40 0.05PlatinumFine 1.11 1.00 0.92 0.84 0.80 0.67 0.60 0.58 0.53 0.47 0.45 0.05gold

22ct dS 1.21 1.08 1.00 0.91 0.87 0.73 0.66 0.63 0.58 0.51 0.49 0.06

18ct MW 1.33 1.19 1.10 1.00 0.96 0.80 0.72 0.69 0.64 0.56 0.54 0.06

18ct HB 1.39 1.25 1.15 1.05 1.00 0.84 0.75 0.72 0.66 0.58 0.56 0.06

14ct AY 1.65 1.48 1.37 1.25 1.19 1.00 0.90 0.86 0.79 0.69 0.67 0.08

gW 1.84 1.65 1.52 1.39 1.32 1.11 1.00 0.96 0.88 0.77 0.75 0.09Palladium

9ct dF 1.92 1.72 1.59 1.45 1.38 1.16 1.04 1.00 0.92 0.80 0.78 0.09

Sterling 2.09 1.87 1.73 1.57 1.50 1.26 1.14 1.09 1.00 0.87 0.84 0.10Silver

Copper 2.39 2.14 1.98 1.80 1.72 1.44 1.29 1.24 1.14 1.00 0.97 0.11

Brass 2.47 2.22 2.05 1.86 1.78 1.49 1.35 1.29 1.18 1.03 1.00 0.11(90/10)

Wax 21.30 19.30 17.80 16.20 15.50 13.00 11.70 11.20 10.30 9.00 8.70 1.00

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Metal gauge conversion chart

0.001 0.025 -0.0012 0.03 -0.0016 0.04 -0.002 0.05 -0.0024 0.06 -0.0028 0.07 -0.0032 0.08 -0.0036 0.09 -0.004 0.10 -0.0044 0.11 -0.0048 0.12 -0.005 0.12 -0.0052 0.13 -0.006 0.15 -0.0065 0.17 -0.0068 0.17 -0.007 0.18 -0.0076 0.19 -0.008 0.20 -0.0084 0.21 -0.0085 0.22 10.009 0.23 -0.0092 0.23 -0.0095 0.24 20.010 0.25 -0.0105 0.27 30.0108 0.27 -0.011 0.28 -0.0116 0.30 -0.012 0.31 40.0124 0.32 -0.013 0.33 -0.0136 0.35 -0.014 0.36 50.0148 0.38 -0.015 0.38 -0.016 0.41 60.0164 0.42 -0.017 0.43 -0.018 0.46 -0.0185 0.47 -0.019 0.48 70.020 0.51 -0.0215 0.55 80.022 0.56 -0.024 0.61 90.025 0.64 -

0.027 0.69 -0.028 0.71 100.030 0.76 -0.032 0.81 110.033 0.84 -0.035 0.89 120.036 0.91 -0.038 0.97 130.039 0.99 -0.040 1.02 -0.042 1.07 -0.043 1.09 140.046 1.17 -0.048 1.22 150.049 1.24 -0.051 1.30 160.055 1.40 170.056 1.42 -0.058 1.47 -0.059 1.50 180.060 1.52 -0.062 1.58 190.064 1.63 -0.065 1.65 200.067 1.70 -0.069 1.75 210.072 1.83 -0.073 1.85 220.074 1.88 -0.077 1.96 230.080 2.03 -0.082 2.08 240.083 2.11 -0.086 2.18 -0.090 2.29 250.091 2.31 -0.092 2.34 -0.095 2.41 -0.0966 2.44 -0.100 2.54 260.102 2.59 -0.104 2.64 -0.109 2.77 -0.110 2.79 -0.112 2.85 270.116 2.95 -0.120 3.05 -0.121 3.07 -0.124 3.15 280.128 3.25 -0.134 3.40 -

nearest metric BirminghamInch equivalent metal gauge

Ring sizing

A 12.1 0.48 37.5 38 12.1 0.48A½ 12.3 0.48 38.4 39 12.4 0.49B 12.5 0.49 39.0B½ 12.7 0.50 39.6 40 12.7 0.50C 12.9 0.51 40.2C½ 41 13.1 0.51 40.8D 13.2 0.52 41.4 42 13.4 0.53D½ 13.4 0.53 42.0E 13.6 0.54 42.6 43 13.7 0.54E½ 13.8 0.54 43.2 44 14.0 0.55F 14.0 0.55 43.8F½ 14.2 0.56 44.4 45 14.3 0.56G 14.4 0.57 45.0G½ 14.6 0.58 45.6 46 14.6 0.58H 14.8 0.58 46.2 47 15.0 0.59H½ 15.0 0.59 46.8I 15.2 0.60 47.4 48 15.3 0.60I½ 15.4 0.61 48.0 49 15.6 0.61J 15.6 0.61 48.6J½ 15.8 0.62 49.2 50 15.9 0.63K 16.0 0.63 49.8K½ 16.2 0.64 50.4 51 16.2 0.64L 16.4 0.65 51.0 52 16.6 0.65L½ 16.6 0.65 51.6M 16.8 0.66 52.2 53 16.9 0.66M½ 17.0 0.67 52.8N 17.2 0.68 53.5 54 17.2 0.68

N½ 17.4 0.68 54.1 55 17.5 0.69O 17.6 0.69 54.7O½ 17.8 0.70 55.4 56 17.8 0.70P 18.0 0.71 56.0 57 18.1 0.71P½ 18.2 0.72 56.7Q 18.4 0.72 57.3 58 18.5 0.73Q½ 18.6 0.73 57.9R 18.8 0.74 5 59 18.8 0.74R½ 19.0 0.75 59.2 60 19.1 0.75S 19.2 0.75 59.9S½ 19.4 0.76 60.5 61 19.4 0.76T 19.5 0.77 61.1 62 19.7 0.78T½ 19.7 0.78 61.8U 19.9 0.79 62.4 63 20.1 0.79U½ 20.1 0.79 63.0V 20.3 0.80 63.7 64 20.4 0.80V½ 20.5 0.81 64.3 65 20.7 0.81W 20.7 0.82 64.9W½ 20.9 0.82 65.5 66 21.0 0.83X 21.1 0.83 66.1X½ 21.3 0.84 66.7 67 21.3 0.84 66.7Y 21.5 0.85 67.3 68 21.6 0.85Y½ 21.7 0.85 67.9Z 21.9 0.86 68.5 69 22.0 0.86Z½ 22.1 0.87Z+1 22.3 0.88Z+2 22.7 0.89Z+3 23.1 0.91

Bri

tish

Eu

ro

mm

ins

mm

Bri

tish

Eu

ro

mm

ins

mm

Finger Internal Internal size dia. circum.

Finger Internal Internal size dia. circum.


Cooksongold Cheat Sheet

Saw Blades • Different grades for different metals of

varying thicknesses depending on the intricacy of the piercing.

• Starting out, use 2/0 or 3/0 blades. Remember: the higher the number, the finer the blade, with the finest suitable for delicate work or thin metal. Generally, three ‘teeth’ of the saw should be the same as the thickness of the material.

• For best results, use no tension or force and simply allow the blade to glide smoothly. Using a little beeswax can help.

• And don’t forget: practice makes perfect when it comes to not breaking saw blades every few minutes!

Files • Files come in various forms: standard (great

for general shaping and tidying), needle (small files for more detailed work and tidying up) and escapement (tiny files for delicate work, often used by horologists).

• The different sizes also come in varying grades, from 00 (coarse) to 4 (fine). Cut 2 is a great all-purpose starter file.

• Use the file with a wooden handle, in a smooth forward motion, then lift the file and repeat - pulling the file towards you can blunt the file.

• To keep the file clean and unclogged, use a file brush with water and washing up liquid.

Solder • Silver solder can be used on silver and

base metals, such as brass and copper; other precious metals, like gold and platinum, have their own solders.

• Most students start with strips of silver solder which also comes in wire and paste form.

• Strip and wire need to be used with a flux which allows the solder to flow, whereas paste comes prepared with flux and is ready to use.

• Silver solder comes in hard, medium, easy and extra easy. Hard solder is the thickest and has the highest melting point. By using this first you can then follow with medium and easy for further soldering, so the previous solder won’t melt.

Finishing • Emery paper: use dry.

• Wet & Dry paper.

Low number: Coarse. High number: Fine.

For best results, work through grade by grade, though you can skip one or two.

Can be used on wooden sticks, similar to using a file, or on a flat even surface.

After going through the grades, the metal is ready for final finish, e.g. polishing.

E knoW THAT starting out in jewellery making can be a steep learning curve, so here at

Cooksongold we’ve put together our own special cheat sheet with all the basic things that you (and we!) sometimes need a little help remembering, like which solder is which and what grade of file to use. And don’t forget, we’re always happy to help, so just pop in and ask!

W

00

0

1

2

3

4

Files

Grade 4

Grade 3

Grade 2

Grade 1

1/02/03/04/05/06/08/0

Saw Blades

240

320

400

600

800

1000

1200

Wet & dry

150

180

240

500

1200

2000

Emery

CoarseFine

01M

MC

M08

0209

1503

1016

0411

1705

1218

0714

2006

1319

0103

0507

0204

0608

16th

s10

ths

INC

HE

S

When you are finished with this magazine please pass it on to a friend or neighbour, or recycle it. Thanx ;-)

2472 Student Tech Guide 2014 A5_v4.indd 12 03/09/2014 18:39

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