a guide to developing a water-wise landscape

Cooperative ExtensionThe University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction........................................................................................................................................1

Step 1: Planning and Design ...........................................................................................................2Begin With a Base Map .........................................................................................................2Catalog Site Characteristics...................................................................................................2Incorporate Shade Into the Design ........................................................................................3Plan for Different Use Areas ..................................................................................................3Establish Water-use Zones ....................................................................................................4Develop a Master Plan...........................................................................................................5Fit Plants to the Design..........................................................................................................6Renovation of an Existing Landscape for Improved Water Conservation .............................6

Step 2: Soil Analysis .........................................................................................................................8Inspect Your Soil ....................................................................................................................8Soil Analysis Saves Guesswork.............................................................................................8Don’t Add Organic Matter to the Planting Hole for Trees and Shrubs...................................8Improve the Structure of Poor Soils .......................................................................................8

Step 3: Appropriate Plant Selection ................................................................................................9

Step 4: Practical Turf Areas ...........................................................................................................10

Step 5: Efficient Irrigation...............................................................................................................11Sprinkler Irrigation ................................................................................................................11Drip Irrigation........................................................................................................................12Guidelines for Irrigating the Landscape ...............................................................................13

Step 6: Use of Mulches...................................................................................................................14

Step 7: Appropriate Maintenance ..................................................................................................16Fertilize Less and Use Slow-release Fertilizers...................................................................16Soil Testing Saves Guesswork.............................................................................................16Avoid Shearing Plants..........................................................................................................16Proper Mowing Saves Water ...............................................................................................16Aerating Turfgrass Improves Water Movement ...................................................................16Other Water-saving Maintenance Practices ........................................................................17

Summary ..........................................................................................................................................17

Georgia Hardiness Zones ...............................................................................................................18

Durable Plants for Xeriscape-type Landscapes ...........................................................................19

Commercially Designed Xeriscape-type Landscapes: Before and After Renovation ..............32

References .......................................................................................................................................40

INTRODUCTIONToday Georgia is facing a serious water supply

problem in several urban areas as population growthplaces an ever-increasing strain on available watersupplies.

From 1995 to 2005, Georgia’s population grew bymore than 1 million, and it is projected to increaseanother 2 million by 2015. In 2007, more than two-thirds of our state’s population lived in just 26 of 159counties. These counties are all in and around urbanareas. As urban areas grow, so does the competitionand demand for water resources.

Increasing demand for water results in periodicwater shortages and restrictions on outdoor water use.Periods of limited rainfall or drought make the problemworse. Recently, in some highly populated areas, watersupply problems and restrictions on outdoor water usehave occurred even during times of normal rainfall.

Figure 1 compares water use and populationgrowth in Georgia from 1950 to 2000. While demandfor ground water has increased slightly, demand forsurface water has increased 10-fold. About 75 percentof Georgia’s water supply comes from surface water,while only 25 percent comes from ground water.

Figure 1. Water use and population growth.

Household water use increases dramatically duringthe summer months when irrigation water is applied tothe lawn, garden and landscape. In some households,water use may be as much as 100 percent higher insummer than in winter.

Tremendous amounts of water may be used out-doors. A typical portable lawn sprinkler, for instance,applies about 300 gallons of water per hour of opera-tion. Some residential landscapes receive severaltimes this amount of water two to three times a week

during the summer. As a result, much water is lost toevaporation or run-off, or it is simply wasted whenplants are given more water than they need.

In this publication, you will be introduced to Xeri-scape™, quality landscaping that conserves water andprotects the environment.

The term Xeriscape (pronounced zera-scape) wascoined in Colorado in 1981 in response to a prolongeddrought. It derives from merging the Greek word“Xeros,” meaning “dry,” with the word “landscape.”

Today, Xeriscape programs exist in more than 40states throughout the United States. The National Xeri-scape Council’s headquarters is in Atlanta, Ga.

Xeriscape-type landscaping is a package of sevencommon-sense steps for making a landscape morewater-efficient:

1. Planning and Design2. Soil Analysis3. Appropriate Plant Selection4. Practical Turf Areas5. Efficient Irrigation6. Use of Mulches7. Appropriate MaintenanceEach of these steps is a good gardening practice.

However, the more of them you implement, the morewater efficient your landscape becomes.

A Xeriscape-type landscape can reduce outdoorwater consumption by as much as 50 percent withoutsacrificing the quality and beauty of your home envi-ronment. It is also an environmentally sound landscape,requiring less fertilizer and fewer chemicals. And aXeriscape-type landscape is low maintenance — savingyou time, effort and money. Any landscape, whethernewly installed or well established, can be made morewater efficient by implementing one or more of theseven steps. You do not have to totally redesign yourlandscape to save water. Significant water savings canbe realized simply by modifying your watering schedule,learning how and when to water, using the most effi-cient watering methods and learning about the differentwater needs of plants in your landscape.

Let’s look at each of the Xeriscape steps in moredetail.

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Prepared by Gary L. Wade and James T. Midcap, Extension Horticulturists; Kim D. Coder, Extension Forester; Gil Landry, ExtensionAgronomist; Anthony W. Tyson, Extension Agricultural Engineer: and Neal Weatherly, Jr., University of Georgia EnvironmentalLandscape Design Department

a guide to developing a water-wise landscape

STEP 1: PLANNING AND DESIGNWhether you are developing a new landscape or

renovating an existing landscape, proper planning anddesign are important. You may wish to start thinkingimmediately about what plants to use, but first youmust solve any environmental and physical problems inan attractive and practical manner. Think about the var-ious areas of your landscape in terms of how theyshould be developed for different uses and how muchspace you should allot to each area.

As you plan each area, consider several differentarrangements. For example, is a fence, wall or hedgemore appropriate for screening and/or security? Howmuch space is needed for active recreation, a vegeta-ble garden or for patio entertaining? Only after thesedecisions are made should you begin thinking aboutwhat plants to use.

Begin With a Base MapA base map is a plan of the property drawn to

scale on graph paper showing the location of thehouse, its orientation to the sun, other structures on the

site, unusual features such as stone outcroppings andexisting vegetation. See figure 2.

Accuracy in the base map will help you determineif your site will accommodate all of your plans. Later itwill help to determine the quantity of any constructionmaterials and plants needed. For additional informationon preparing a base map, refer to Extension Leaflet124, Developing a Site Plan, or talk with your countyExtension agent.

Catalog Site CharacteristicsNext, lay a sheet of tracing paper over the base

map and label it “Site Analysis.” See figure 3. Usearrows to indicate the direction of desirable views youwant to emphasize and undesirable views you want toscreen. Use arrows to indicate the drainage patterns ofthe property, including any low spots or eroded areas.Make plans to correct potential drainage problemsbefore planting. This may require regrading, bringing inadditional soil, building retaining walls or shaping ter-races. Any changes in the existing landscape shouldbe subtle so that the natural character of the landscapeis retained.

Incorporate as many of the natural elements of thesite into the design as possible, such as existing trees

2Figure 2. Base map of property Figure 3. Site analysis of property

and shrubs. Undisturbed native plants will not requirewater for re-establishment and may be more water effi-cient than new plantings.

Note the orientation of the home (i.e., north, south,east, west). This will help determine where to putplants best suited for sun or shade. Areas exposed todirect afternoon sun are likely to dry out more rapidlythan those in the shade. In these locations, your planshould include drought-tolerant plants, some method ofproviding supplemental water or cultural practices thatwill help conserve moisture.

Incorporate Shade Into the DesignShade from trees or structures in the landscape

keeps the landscape cooler and reduces water losswhile creating a comfortable living environment. Referto figure 4. A shaded landscape can be as much as20°F cooler than one in the full sun.

Figure 4. A shaded landscape may be 20°F coolerthan a landscape in full sun.

Figure 5 compares the heat exchange in an un-shaded parking lot where the soil surface is covered bypavement with a tree in dry soil and a tree in moist soil.

Figure 5. Effects of shade on water loss

A person standing in an open parking lot is bom-barded with 1,000 heat units from the sun and another1,000 heat units reflected from the paved surface.Walking beneath a shade tree provides immediaterelief from the sun because the tree acts like anumbrella, blocking light and heat (passive shade). If thetree is growing in moist soil, it will not only block heatbut will also dissipate heat by evaporative loss from theleaves (active shade). A moist soil surface also evapo-rates heat and reduces heat load further. Therefore, amoist landscape with trees can contain one-fourth asmuch heat as a parking lot in full sun and one-half asmuch heat as a bone-dry landscape.

In addition to paved areas, shade prevents heatbuild-up from other hardscape surfaces, such as brickor stucco walls and gravel walks. Whenever possible,try to shade these surfaces.

Just as we perspire and lose moisture through ourpores, plants transpire and lose moisture through theirleaves. A mature oak tree, for example, can dissipateas much heat as four home central air conditionersrunning 24 hours per day. This evaporative water lossfrom leaves has a cooling effect on the environmentand reduces water loss. Therefore, effective shadingmakes the landscape more water-efficient, the mainobjective of Xeriscape planning.

Effective shade management in a Xeriscape-typelandscape involves using shade to block sunlight fromstriking the soil surface, to intercept, scatter and reflectradiant energy to protect paved surfaces or masonrystructures from direct sunlight. Effective shade man-agement also involves managing wind currents thatinfluence heat flow in the landscape. In addition totrees, structures like trellises, arbors, walls or fencescan provide shade. A vine or espalier on these struc-tures improves their shading and cooling effect. Seepage 19 for a suggested list of vines.

Plan for Different Use AreasTo begin your plan, overlay the base map and site

analysis sheet with another piece of tracing paper. Onthis sheet indicate the public, private and service areasof your landscape. See figure 6. Consider how theseareas will be developed based on space requirementsfor each activity.

The public area is the highly visible area that mostvisitors see, such as the entry to the home. In a tradi-tional landscape, this area typically receives the mostcare, including the most water. Therefore, the carefuldesign of this area is important for water conservation.This area can be designed to require minimal water andmaintenance without sacrificing quality or appearance.

The private area of the landscape, usually thebackyard, is where most outdoor activity occurs. It isgenerally the family gathering area. It may also includea vegetable garden or fruit orchard. The landscape inthis area needs to be functional, attractive and durable,but it also should be designed to require less waterthan the public area of the landscape.

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The service area is the working or utility area ofthe landscape, an area usually screened from viewand containing such items as garbage cans, outdoorequipment, air-conditioning units or a doghouse. Interms of routine maintenance, this area would bedesigned to require the least care and water of thethree areas.

Establish Water-use ZonesIn addition to dividing the landscape into use

areas, a Xeriscape plan further divides the landscapeinto three water-use zones: high (regular watering),moderate (occasional watering) and low (natural rain-fall). See figure 7. An individual landscape may includeseveral of these zones. High water-use zones aresmall, highly visible areas and highly maintained areasof the landscape, such as the public area and the areaaround the patio where plants are watered regularly inthe absence of rainfall. In the moderate water-usezones, established plants are watered only when theyturn a gray-green color, wilt or show other symptoms of

moisture stress. Possible plants for this zone includeazalea, dogwood, redbud, Japanese maple and manyherbaceous perennials.

In the low water-use zones, plants are watered bynatural rainfall and would not be irrigated. For greatestwater conservation, design as much of your landscapeas possible into low water-use zones. Most people aresurprised to learn that the majority of our woody orna-mental trees and shrubs, turfgrasses, some herbaceousperennials and even some annuals, like vinca and ver-bena, grow well in low water-use zones where they arenot irrigated once they are established. See tables atthe end of this publication for additional selections.

Expect a slight loss of quality during extended dryperiods, but don’t be alarmed. Some plants will literallyshut down during drought and cease growing.Bermuda grass will go dormant and turn brown duringdrought, then bounce back with the first rains. Learningto accept this “less than perfect” appearance during dryperiods is one of the most difficult obstacles to over-come in a water-conserving landscape.

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Figure 6. The basic use area of a typical residential lot Figure 7. Diagram of water-use zones of property

One exception to the water zone rule is newlyplanted ornamental plants and turfgrasses. Theseplants require regular irrigation during the establish-ment period (8 to 10 weeks after planting), regardlessof their intended water-use zone.

To maximize water savings, concentrate seasonalcolor beds in areas of the landscape where they canbe watered and maintained. Avoid scattering a numberof small color beds throughout the landscape.

Now, add a new overlay of tracing paper to thebase map and sketch your desired water-use zones.The landscape is beginning to take shape and you canvisualize the form of the various beds, but constructionmaterials and plants have not yet been identified.

Develop a Master PlanOnce you have settled on a design scheme and a

water management arrangement, give form and defini-tion to the various spaces in your plan. With the identi-fication of planting spaces as well as edging materials,groundcovers and paving, the master plan begins totake form. This is a plan showing the final product ofyour efforts. Straight lines or smooth flowing curves arebest — tight curves or unnecessary bends can bemaintenance problems. Use right angles and avoidacute angles that are difficult to maintain and irrigate.Remember that simplicity in the design will ensureeasy maintenance and water-use efficiency. A proto-type master plan is shown in figure 8.

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Figure 8. Master plan for incorporating Xeriscape principles. Note how the character of this landscape is very similar tothat of a traditional landscape.

Fit Plants to the DesignOnce you achieve the style and overall effect you

desire, select plants to fill the assigned spaces. Selectplants that complement and accent the good featuresof the architecture and construction materials ratherthan overpower them.

Group plantings to conform to the shape of plantbeds. Avoid rigid formal, geometric plantings as much aspossible. A good approach for most residences is to placethe larger plants at the corners with some height at theentrance and low plantings in between. Such arrange-ments focus attention on the entrance. For a pleasingvisual effect, use odd number groupings (1, 3, 5) whenpossible. Use bands of low-growing plants or ground cov-ers to tie together and unify groups of taller shrubs.

Place plants at the proper spacing in the landscapeto ensure easy maintenance and more efficient use ofwater. See the tables on pages 19 to 31 for informationon mature height and spread of commonly used plantsor ask your nurseryman or Extension agent about theplant. Spacing plants far enough apart is extremelyimportant so that they can achieve their mature sizewithout being crowded. Over-planting by placing plantstoo close together not only increases your costs butalso results in long-term maintenance problems andincreases the potential for water stress. For additionalinformation, refer to Georgia Extension Service Leaflet135, Spacing Plant Materials: Ground Covers; Leaflet134, Spacing Plant Material: Shrubs; and Leaflet 127,Spacing Plant Material: Trees.

Select plants that have a size and form that con-form to their location without having to be sheared orfrequently pruned to keep them in bounds. Plants, likepeople, grow in all shapes and sizes. If left unpruned,some plants will be tall and thin; others will stay shortand spreading. Some will be irregular with openbranching; others will be compact with dense foliage.

Choose plants with the same shape and ultimatesize as the space you want to fill. For example, to plantan area in front of low windows, 2 feet above the ground,select spreading low-growing shrubs with an anticipatedheight of not more than 2 feet. Refer to pages 21 to 22for a suggested plant list. Avoid using too many kinds ofplants, because the landscape will look like an arboretumand will lack unity. For the typical home, three to five dif-ferent shrubs, in addition to ground covers and trees, arerecommended for the basic plantings around the house.For more information on selecting plants for Xeriscape-type landscape, as well as a suggested plant list, see“Appropriate Plant Selection” on page 9 and “DurablePlants for Xeriscape-type Landscapes,” pages 19 to 31.

Renovation of an Existing Landscape for Improved Water Conservation

Figure 9 depicts before and after views of a typicalresidence renovated for water conservation.

The before view illustrates a rather dull landscape withfoundation shrubs ringing the house, a hedge along threesides and some native trees along the rear of the property.

The redesign of the residence shows expansion ofthe shrub beds in the public and private areas of thelandscape to provide seasonal interest, variety andreduced maintenance. Shade-tolerant ground coversare used under the existing trees on the left side of thefront and right rear of the property. A large area in theleft rear of the property was made a natural mulch playarea for children. Note how the water-use zoneschanged during the redesign of the property.

Tables 1 and 2 show an economic comparison ofthe landscape shown in figure 9 before and afterrenovation. Changes in water use zones were project-ed to save more than 29,000 gallons of water a year.This equated to annual savings of $66.12 on water,$46.40 on sewage and $237.00 on landscape mainte-nance. Although the landscape renovation cost $1,245in plants and supplies, the annual savings brought atotal return on investment within three years. Therefore,a water-wise landscape saves not only water but alsomoney!

Table 1. Surface area by water-use zone before andafter renovation

Square FeetZone* Before AfterLow 0 3,403Moderate 5,788 3,538High 3,662 2,509Total Irrigated Area 9,450 6,047* Low = not irrigated; moderate = irrigated occasionally;

high = irrigated regularly

Table 2. Estimated annual water use and annual costof water, sewage and landscape maintenance beforeand after renovation

Before After SavingsWater use (gallons) 81,437 51,723 29,714Est. annual water cost $199.68 $133.56 $66.12Est. annual sewage cost $140.94 $94.54 $46.40Est. annual maintenance $660.00 $423.00 $237.00

costsOverall cost $1,000.62 $651.10 $349.52

Additional examples of Xeriscape-type renovationsare shown on pages 32 to 39.

The alteration of an existing landscape to conservewater does not have to be as elaborate as that shown.In many instances, it may be as simple as relocating afew shrubs or flowering trees to more environmentallysuitable locations on the property or improving theshape of plant beds to simplify irrigation. Considerablesavings can result by converting irrigated areas toground covers or natural mulch areas. Simply changingmanagement practices and watering habits withoutmaking any physical changes in the landscape oftencan save large amounts of water. For each 1,000square feet of landscaped area converted from an irri-gated to a nonirrigated area, you can save an estimatedminimum of $60 per year on water and sewage costs.

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Figure 9. Before and after Xeriscape retrofit showing changes in water-use zones and view of backyard

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BEFORE

AFTER

STEP 2: SOIL ANALYSISInspect Your Soil

A thorough analysis of both the physical andchemical characteristics of the soil is important whendeveloping a water-wise landscape. Georgia has awide variety of soil types, ranging from well-drainedcoastal sands to poorly drained clays. Each soil has itsown unique structure and texture, drainage pattern, pH,nutrient content and need for amendments and fertiliz-er. To complicate matters, an individual landscape mayhave several different soil types, or the soil may consistof fill dirt brought onto the site. Soils are seldom per-fect; most of them can be improved in some way toensure best plant growth.

Soil Analysis Saves GuessworkBefore landscaping, take a sample of your soil to

your local county Extension office for testing. Yourcounty Extension agent will provide you with a recom-mendation for lime and fertilizer based on the analysis.

Do Not Add Organic Matter to the PlantingHole for Trees and Shrubs

For years we have added organic matter such aspeat moss, animal manure or compost to the plantinghole to enrich the soil, to conserve moisture and toimprove plant growth. But recent research shows nobenefit from amending the planting hole. In fact, organ-ic matter added to individual planting holes in clay soilsacts like a sponge in a bathtub, holding excess mois-ture around plant roots after irrigation or rainfall. Wet,waterlogged soils that suffocate plant roots are a lead-ing cause of plant death in Georgia. Even in well-drained soils, organic matter encourages the roots ofplants to stay within the hole instead of growing out toexplore the native soil.

When planting individual trees and shrubs, dig alarge planting hole, at least two times wider than theroot ball of the plant. See figure 10.

Figure 10. Diagram of a properly planted shrub. Properplanting is the key to healthy root growth and droughttolerance of trees and shrubs.

Research at the University of Georgia shows thatplants transplanted into a large planting hole establishthemselves more quickly and develop a significantlylarger root system than those in a small hole no largerthan the root ball. A large, extensive root massimproves the plant’s ability to absorb moisture from thesoil and helps the plant survive drought.

Next, make certain the top of the root ball is levelwith the soil surface, then backfill with the same soilremoved from the hole. Do not add amendments to thehole. Simply backfill with the native soil after removingstones, sticks and other debris. Tamp the soil lightly toeliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly and then addorganic mulch, such as pine straw or bark ships, to thesoil surface to conserve moisture.

When planting a group of shrubs, cultivate the soilthroughout the area as deeply as possible. Cultivationchanges the structure of the native soil and provides agood environment for root growth.

Improve the Structure of Poor SoilsCertain native soils, like dense, poorly drained

clays, have such poor structure that plant growth suf-fers unless they are improved. Poorly drained soils canbe improved in several ways. Sometimes deep cultiva-tion will break apart a hard layer of soil (hardpan) sev-eral inches below the soil surface and improvedrainage. Another option is to bring in additional soil toraise the planting area 12 to 15 inches above the exist-ing grade. Some professional landscapers also incor-porate 3 to 6 inches of a coarse aggregate, such asgranite sand, into poorly drained soils. A final option isto install subsurface drainage pipe to carry excesswater off the site after rain.

On the other hand, soils that tend to dry out rapidlyand hold little moisture will benefit from organic mattersuch as aged animal manure or compost, incorporateduniformly throughout the planting bed. This is partic-ularly helpful when water-requiring plants, like annuals,are to be grown. However, instead of adding the organ-ic matter to the planting hole, apply 3 to 6 inches onthe soil surface and incorporate it into the soil.

Your goal in soil analysis is to create an ideal soilenvironment for the expanding root system. An ideal soilhas good aeration and drainage, yet holds adequatemoisture and nutrients for optimum root growth.Research at the University of Florida shows that the rootsof trees and shrubs grow outward approximately seventimes the diameter of the root ball during the first growingseason when provided with a good soil environment.

Unfortunately, no cookbook recipe exists for soilimprovement. How you treat the soil depends on thecharacteristics of the native soil, the type of plants tobe grown and the time of year when planting.

Before planting, check the structure and texture ofthe native soil by digging a hole 12 to 15 inches deepand examining the soil horizon. Is it loose and granularor hard and compact? Fill the hole with water andwatch how fast it drains. If water remains in the holeafter 12 hours, the soil is poorly drained.

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Plants prone to drought stress, like azalea, dogwood,annuals and herbaceous perennials, prefer a moist, well-drained soil; plants known to be drought tolerant, such ascrape myrtle and juniper, will grow well on very dry sitesonce established. Likewise, soil prepared for summertransplanting when dry periods are likely to occur shouldhave a greater water-holding capacity than soil preparedfor fall transplanting when rainfall is generally more regu-lar and irrigation demand is low.

Water-absorbing polymers, commonly calledhydrogels, are popular new products. Refer to figure 11.These man-made crystals, sold under various tradenames, absorb several hundred times their weight inwater and gradually release it to plant roots. One poundof crystals applied to 100 square feet of bed area willabsorb 20 to 25 gallons of water, or about 50 times asmuch moisture as peat moss. They last from six monthsto several years in the soil, depending on product.

Figure 11. Hydrogels, synthetic polymers that absorbhundreds of times their weight in water and graduallyrelease it to the plants, are among the popular newproducts on the market for water conservation. Oneteaspoon absorbs a quart of water.

Research to date with hydrogels is limited and hasprovided conflicting results. However, preliminary stud-ies with hydrogels at the University of Georgia showsthem to enhance the growth of summer annuals innonirrigated soils. Another potential use for hydrogelsreported by professional landscapers is in containerplants to extend the time between waterings.

STEP 3: APPROPRIATEPLANT SELECTION

Appropriate plant selection means selecting plantsthat not only are compatible with the design but alsoare well suited to the planting site and local environ-ment. It involves selecting plants according to the soiltype and light level of the site. Ideally, the plants youselect should be adaptable to local fluctuations in tem-perature and soil moisture. See figure 12.

Drought tolerance is important in a Xeriscape-typelandscape. However, it should not be the only criteriaused to select plants. Junipers, for instance, areextremely drought tolerant, but they cannot tolerate wetsoils or heavy shade.

Figure 12. Beds of drought-tolerant ground coverssuch as junipers are an excellent way of reducing thewater requirement of the landscape.

Native plants are not necessarily the most droughttolerant. Even though a plant may be native to the area, itmay not adapt to an adverse new environment (microcli-mate). When forced to grow in a harsh new environment,native plants can become a high-maintenance nightmare.

In addition to the adaptability of a plant to the site,other important criteria to consider include:

1. Mature size and form. Will the plant remain inscale with the rest of the landscape as it matures,or will it likely overgrow the site and compete withother plants for space, nutrients and water?

2. Growth rate. Slow-growing dwarf shrubs andground covers used around the base of thehome require little routine pruning.

3. Texture. Is the leaf texture fine, medium orcoarse, and does it combine well with theadjacent plants?

4. Color. Is the flower or foliage color compatiblewith other plants or the background color ofthe building?

5. Functional use. Is the plant suitable for thelocation and intended purpose; i.e. under lowwindows, along the perimeter of the propertyas screening hedge, or as a ground cover?

Select healthy, vigorous plants. Examine the rootsystem for well-developed roots throughout the rootball and an abundance of small white roots (absorptiveroots) along the exterior of the root ball. Examine theleaves and stems for insects or diseases and avoidplants that are weak or appear unhealthy.

Pages 19 to 31 contain descriptive listings ofdurable ornamental plants and turfgrasses for Georgialandscapes. Please note that it is not an all-inclusivelist. Listing all the ornamental plants grown and sold inGeorgia would be impossible. The suggested water-use zones for each plant are based on observation,experience and best judgement of the authors and arecertainly open for additions as research provides fur-ther data. Although many plants can grow in any of thethree water-use zones, for greatest water conservation,use them in zones that require the least amount ofwater whenever possible.

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To best use the tables, first go to the section listingthe type of plant you desire, i.e. ground cover, vine,ornamental grass, small shrub, medium shrub, largeshrub, small tree, large tree, annual or perennial flow-ers or turfgrass. Then select the plants having yourdesired merits within each category, and group theminto the appropriate water-use zone.

When selecting plants for a Xeriscape-type land-scape, keep in mind this important fact: PLANTSDON’T SAVE WATER, PEOPLE DO! The plants weselect do not save water; our ability to locate them inthe landscape appropriately and to manage them prop-erly determines their water needs.

Match the water-use zones with the condition of theplanting site. For instance, place high-water-requiringplants in areas of the landscape that stay moist and low-water-requiring plants in areas that stay drier naturally.

Any ornamental plant or turfgrass presently on themarket can be used in a Xeriscape-type landscape. Infact, you may be surprised to learn just how many plantscan thrive without any supplemental water once they areestablished. The key is to identify the water needs of theplant you select, and then group it in the landscape withother plants having a similar need for water. By doingthis, supplemental irrigation can be applied most effi-ciently and only to those plants that require it. The resultis maximum water conservation in the landscape.

STEP 4: PRACTICAL TURF AREAS

Turfgrass is one of the most versatile and function-al plants in the landscape. It provides one of the bestrecreational surfaces for outdoor activities. From awater management standpoint, turf is recognized asone of the most effective plant covers to reduce runoffand erosion while recharging the ground water, whichresults in more efficient use of rainfall.

Turf has a tremendous mitigating effect on theenvironment. For example, research documents that aturf area can be as much as 30°F cooler than a con-crete or asphalt surface and 10°F to 14°F cooler thanbare soil. This cooling effect from the average lawn isequal to more than eight tons of air conditioning; theaverage home central-air unit produces three to fourtons. Turf also absorbs dust and other air pollutantsand produces oxygen.

However, in the typical landscape, turfgrass occu-pies the largest area and, when managed incorrectly,receives the largest amount of irrigation. You can real-ize considerable water savings by irrigating only the turfin high impact, highly visible areas of the landscape.

All turfgrasses recommended for Georgia can beused in any water-use zone and can survive mostdroughts without supplemental irrigation once they areestablished. During drought periods, a healthy turfgrasswill wilt and turn brown, then regain its normal colorand growth when it receives adequate water. You mustbe willing to accept a loss of quality and appearance

during periods of limited rainfall when growing turf innonirrigated areas of the landscape.

Maximum water conservation with turf is obtainedthrough proper selection, establishment and mainte-nance. In addition to differing in appearance, turfgrass-es differ in their tolerance to environmental factorssuch as shade, temperature, soil fertility, water use anddrought resistance. Table 3 shows water use anddrought resistance of some turfgrass species and vari-eties tested in Georgia. The water use is based on theuser’s adhering to recommended irrigation practices.Drought resistance is important when growing turfgrassin nonirrigated areas. The turfgrasses listed would sur-vive most droughts in Georgia.

Table 3. Average water use and drought resistance ofselected turfgrasses in Georgia.

Drought Common Name Water Use ResistanceTifway Bermuda Very Low Very HighCommon Bermuda Very Low HighRaleigh St. Augustine Very Low Very HighRebel 11 tall fescue Very Low MediumCentipedegrass Low Medium-highMeyer Zoysia Low LowK 31 tall fescue Low Low-medium

Practical turf areas mean using turfgrass for a specificfunction in the landscape. A small “oasis” of turf near theentrance to the home, a playing surface of durable turf inrecreational areas or a blanket of turf on a highly erodibleslope are all examples of “practical” turf areas. See figure13. Also, design turf in practical shapes that can be effi-ciently irrigated and maintained. Avoid sharp angles andlong narrow strips that are difficult to mow and water.

Remember, the goal in developing a water-wiselandscape is to reduce the need for supplemental irri-gation, regardless of whether in turf or in ornamentalareas of the landscape. As irrigated space decreases,water savings increase.

For additional information on turfgrass selection andmaintenance, see “Appropriate Maintenance” on page 16,“Turfgrasses” on page 31 and Cooperative ExtensionService Bulletin 733, Lawns in Georgia.

Figure 13. An area of well-maintained turfgrass is likea welcome mat at this home.

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STEP 5: EFFICIENT IRRIGATION

A water-wise landscape requires a minimal amountof supplemental water from irrigation. When irrigation isused, water is applied efficiently and effectively tomake every drop count.

Just as we zone plants in the landscape accordingto their different water needs, zone the irrigation sys-tem so that plants with different water needs are irrigat-ed separately. Water turfgrass, for instance, separatelyfrom shrubs and flowers.

Using irrigation water efficiently also requires us toselect the appropriate type of irrigation for the plantsand for each area of the landscape. Trees and shrubsin the low water-use zone would need supplementalwater only during establishment (first 8 to 10 weeksafter transplanting); plants in moderate water-usezones require water only during periods of limited rain-fall when they show signs of stress. For these plants, atemporary system such as a soaker hose or handwatering may be all that is required. On the other hand,high water-use zones require frequent watering andmay warrant a permanent system with automatic con-trols. Whenever possible, use highly efficient wateringtechniques, such as drip irrigation.

Sprinkler IrrigationSprinkler irrigation may be as simple as a single

sprinkler attached to a garden hose, or it may be acomplex system of underground pipes and pop-upspray heads with automatic controls. A Xeriscape-typelandscape uses sprinkler irrigation for watering turfwhere water must be applied uniformly over the entirearea. For most other applications in the landscape dripirrigation is a better choice.

Many types of sprinklers are available for use inthe landscape. Permanent systems with pop-up typespray heads are most common. They are installedunderground and rise above the ground surface tooperate. Some are designed for use in turf (2 to 3 inchpop-up height); others are designed for use in beds oftaller plants (6 to 12 inch pop-up height). Some sprin-kler heads are designed for watering small irregularlyshaped areas. These typically have a radius of 15 feetor less. Others, like rotary sprinkler heads, wet a radiusof 20 to 50 feet and are used to irrigate large areas.Most sprinklers are available in either full-circle or part-circle models and most have an adjustable radius forwatering irregular areas.Proper Design Is Important

The installation of an efficient sprinkler systembegins with good design. The system must be capableof applying water uniformly over the desired area withminimal overspray into adjacent areas.

Choosing the appropriate sprinkler for a given areais important, but equally important is the location andspacing of sprinklers. It is usually desirable to placepart-circle sprinklers along the boundaries of the irrigat-

ed area. This allows uniform watering along the edgeswhile avoiding wasteful overspray onto buildings,paved areas and other adjacent areas.

Proper spacing of sprinklers is crucial in achievinguniform water application. Sprinklers that do not overlapadequately will waste water by applying too much water insome areas and not enough water in others. On the otherhand, spacing sprinklers closer than required increasesthe cost of the system and wastes water. In general, spac-ing between sprinklers should be about 50 percent of thewetted diameter. For example, sprinklers with a wetteddiameter of 80 feet should be spaced 40 feet apart.

Where part-circle sprinklers are used on the samezone with full-circle sprinklers, the sprinklers should becarefully selected to achieve a “matched precipitationrate.” A half circle sprinkler will only water half as mucharea as a full circle sprinkler; therefore, it should onlydischarge half as much water. If a full-circle sprinklerdischarges six gallons per minute, then a half-circlesprinkler should deliver three gallons per minute and aquarter-circle sprinkler one and one-half gallons perminute. Most manufactures offer sprinklers withmatched precipitation rate (MPR) nozzles.

One other important aspect of proper design is pipesizing. Selection of pipe sizes should be based on theflow rate through the pipe. If pipes are too small, exces-sive pressure losses occur. This causes some sprinklersto apply more water than others and results in nonuniformapplication and waste of water. Additional information onpipe sizing and irrigation system design is available inGeorgia Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin B 894,Lawn and Garden Irrigation Design, as well as designmanuals available from the sprinkler manufacturers.

Check the Application Rate of Your Sprinkler SystemsApplication rate is the rate at which a sprinkler sys-

tem applies water to the soil surface, measured in inch-es per hour (in./hr.). If application rates exceed theintake capacity of the soil, then runoff occurs. Problemswith runoff are more likely to occur in clay soils, whichhave a low intake capacity.

Rotary sprinklers usually have application rates of0.25 to 0.50 inches per hour and rarely cause runoff.

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Figure 14. Use rain gauges to monitor the output ofyour sprinkler system.

Spray heads, on the other hand, typically have applica-tion rates between 1 and 2 inches per hour and maycause run-off on heavy soils, especially where slopesare greater than 10 percent. If run-off occurs, turn thesystem off for an hour or two to let the water soak in,and then apply the remainder of the water.

Determine application rate of a sprinkler system byplacing three or four rain gauges at random on an irrigat-ed area for a predetermined length of time (usually onehour). See figure 14. By knowing the application rates ofyour sprinkler system, you will know how long to operatethe system to apply a given amount of water and willavoid wasting water. Average water level within thegauges is a measure of the output of the system (inchesper hour). Repeat this procedure in each sprinkler zone,particularly if different types of sprinklers are used on dif-ferent zones. For additional information on determiningsprinkler application rate see Georgia Extension ServiceBulletin 894, Irrigation for Lawns and Gardens.

Adjust Sprinkler Heads as NeededImproper adjustment of sprinkler heads not only

wastes water but also may damage buildings or causeaccidents if the water is allowed to spray onto build-ings, public streets or sidewalks. Carefully adjust theradius and arcs of part-circle sprinklers to preventundesirable overspray. Check the system several timesduring the year to ensure proper adjustment.

Drip IrrigationDrip irrigation, also called trickle or micro-irrigation,

applies water slowly and directly to the roots of plantsthrough small flexible pipes and flow control devicescalled emitters. Drip irrigation uses 30 to 50 percentless water than sprinkler irrigation and usually costsless to install. Apply water directly to the root zone tominimize evaporative water loss and run-off.

For maximum water-use efficiency, use drip irriga-tion on trees, shrubs and flowers in the high and mod-erate water-use zones of the landscape. Several typesof drip irrigation systems can be adapted to suit a vari-ety of applications, from watering individual trees andshrubs to beds of annuals, herbaceous perennials orground covers.Components of a Drip System

In a drip system, water is distributed to the plantsthrough small, flexible plastic pipes (3/8 to 3/4 inch in diam-eter) and emitters or through perforated or porous pipe.

Emitters may be purchased separately from thetubing and placed in the line wherever watering isdesired. Another option is to purchase drip tubing withemitters already installed at the factory, usually spaced12 to 24 inches apart. Most emitters will dischargewater at a rate of 2, 1 or 2 gallons per hour at a pres-sure of about 20 pounds per square inch.

Perforated or porous pipe discharges water along itsentire length to wet a continuous strip. By spacing thepipe 12 to 18 inches apart, wetting a solid area is possi-ble. It is a good system for closely spaced plantings ofannuals, herbaceous perennials or groundcovers.

Most drip systems will use PVC pipe for main linesand polyethylene tubing for distribution lines. Poly-ethylene tubing is flexible, easy to cut, and can be con-nected without glue or clamps. Install emitters bypunching a hole in the polyethylene tubing and snap-ping the emitters into place.

The drip system must have a main valve to turn iton and off. It may be an automatic electric valve con-nected to a controller or a manual gate valve. You canalso connect the drip lines directly to an outside faucet.However, when connecting the system directly to thefaucet, use an automated timer to turn the system offafter a preset time. Otherwise, you may forget andleave the system on for several days.

Two other necessary components for a drip systemare a filter and a pressure regulator. A drip system usessmall passageways to control the rate of water applica-tion, so even tiny particles suspended in the water couldcause clogging problems. To prevent clogging, use ascreen filter with a 150 to 200 mesh screen.

Figure 15 is a diagram of a typical component of adrip irrigation system.

Figure 15. Typical controls required for drip irrigation.These components are usually installed below groundin a valve box.

Most drip systems are designed to operate at apressure of about 20 psi, (pounds per square inch).Household water pressure typically ranges from 40 to100 psi. A pressure regulator installed immediately afterthe filter in the main line will reduce the pressure in theline and ensure efficient operation of the system.Which Drip System Is Best?

Because so many different types of drip irrigationcomponents exist, trying to choose the best system fora particular application is often confusing. The bestadvice is to keep it as simple as possible and try to wetonly those areas where the water can be taken up bythe roots of the desired plants.

For trees and shrubs, using a system in which youcan insert emitters wherever water is needed is gener-ally best. The number of emitters per plant and flowrate (gallons per hour) per emitter depend on the sizeand type of plant. Generally, the larger the plant, themore water it requires. The following is an example ofhow emitters might be installed based on plant size:

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Plant Height (ft.) Emitters per Plant<2 one, ½ gallon per hour

2-4 one, 1 gallon per hour4-6 two, 1 gallon per hour6-7 three, 1 gallon per hour7-8 four, 1 gallon per hour

two, 2 gallons per hour

During very dry weather, this system would need torun about three times per week for four hours to supplythe optimum water needs of the plants. Keep in mindthat some species require more water than others.Consider this when installing emitters.

For watering annuals, perennials and ground cov-ers, it is usually necessary to irrigate a solid area. Thiscan be done using emitter lines with emitters spacedevery 12 to 18 inches. By placing emitter lines 12 to 18inches apart, a uniform wetting pattern can beachieved. Perforated or porous pipe spaced every 12to 18 inches apart can also be used. In sandy soils, thelines will need to be closer together than in tightersoils. In annual flowerbeds, the drip lines can be laidaside during bed preparation and replaced afterwards.

A similar method of watering uses small sprinklerheads called microsprinklers, instead of emitters. Allother components are identical to drip irrigation, includ-ing the polyethylene distribution lines. Microsprinklersspray an area 3 to 12 feet wide and are used for treesand shrubs or beds requiring complete coverage.Microsprinklers may be prone to vandalism and are notquite as efficient as emitters, but they do provide aneconomical method of achieving uniform watering.

In landscape applications, drip irrigation tubing isusually installed on top of the ground and concealedbeneath mulch. This makes the system easy to installand service. However, if vandalism is likely, the tubingcan also be installed 4 to 6 inches beneath the soil sur-face with small microtubing (1/8 to 1/4 inch) protruding tothe surface. Running the microtubes above ground willallow for easy inspection and will prevent dirt fromsiphoning back into the emitters and clogging the system.

Guidelines for Irrigating the LandscapeEstablish Irrigation Objectives

In a Xeriscape-type landscape, your goal is to mini-mize the amount of supplemental water applied to thelandscape. Therefore, routine irrigation is necessaryonly in the high water-use zones of the landscape.Occasional hand watering or a portable irrigation sys-tem, such as porous pipe, would be used as needed inthe moderate water-use zones, while establishedplants in low water-use zones would receive only natur-al rainfall and no supplemental irrigation water.Operate Sprinklers Between 9 p.m. and 9 a.m.

Time of application affects water-use efficiency.The best time to irrigate with sprinklers is between 9p.m. and 9 a.m. During this time, less wind and lowertemperatures generally occur; therefore, less water islost to evaporation. Irrigating during the evening after

dew develops (9 p.m.) and before it dries in the morn-ing (9 a.m.) does not increase disease problems.

Drip irrigation systems can be operated any time ofday because evaporative water loss is not a problem,and the foliage stays dry.An Automatic Controller Helps Save Water

An automatic controller attached to the irrigationsystem turns the system on and off and controls thewater flow through the various zones according to apreset time clock. See figure 16. It allows you to setthe length of time each zone operates as well as thedays of the week and time of day the system operates.

Figure 16. Using an automatic controller can savewater and labor.

However, an automatic controller does not relieveyou of the need to closely monitor its operation. Con-trollers should be reprogrammed frequently during thegrowing season because water needs change fromweek to week.

A rainfall sensor attached to the controller detectsrainfall and prevents the irrigation system from operat-ing if significant rainfall has occurred. Another type ofsensor measures soil moisture and overrides the sys-tem when soil moisture is adequate. Sensors are espe-cially useful if the system cannot be monitored andadjusted regularly.

Many different types of controllers are on the mar-ket. Make sure you get one with the features you need.When managed properly, an automatic controller canpay for itself in reduced water usage, cost and labor.Hand Watering

Hand watering is not just for newly planted orna-mental plants. It is also an effective and efficient way ofapplying water to selected plants that show signs ofstress during dry periods. The direct application ofwater to the base of the plant, provided it is appliedslowly enough to be absorbed by the soil, uses lesswater and is more efficient than sprinkler irrigation.

To avoid runoff when using the hand-held hose, usea nozzle that divides the spray into rain-size droplets.Some nozzles have built-in spray pattern adjustments.

When watering by hand, apply about 5 gallons ofwater per 10 square feet, which is approximately the

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amount of water delivered by a 5/8 inch garden hoseoperating one minute at medium pressure. Watering smallshrubs (less than 4 feet in height) for one minute with thehand-held hose should suffice. Larger shrubs (4 feet andup) will require slightly more water. Increase the wateringtime by 15 seconds for each foot of height exceeding fourfeet. For large trees, apply about 6 or 7 gallons for each10 square feet of canopy area. For best results, check theoutput of your faucet by determining the number of sec-onds to fill a one-gallon jug and then estimating output per60 seconds. If runoff occurs before you have applied thecorrect amount of water, move on to another spot andcome back after the water has soaked in.Irrigating Turfgrass

Turfgrasses used in Georgia can survive seasonaldry periods without irrigation and therefore can be usedin any water-use zone. In moderate water-use zones, aturfgrass would be irrigated only when it shows signs ofmoisture stress. Turf under water stress will appear adull bluish green color, the leaf blades will roll inward,and footprints will remain on the grass after walkingover an area. Irrigating turf in the moderate water-usezones with a portable lawn sprinkler within 24 to 48hours of these signs will generally prevent serious lossof turf vigor while maximizing water-use efficiency.

Under optimum growing conditions (high water-usezone), turfgrasses use 1 to 12 inches of water perweek during hot dry weather. Dividing this amount intotwo applications per week, applying 2 to 3/4 inch eachtime, usually works best. Never apply more than oneinch at a time because this will likely result in runoff ordeep percolation below the root zone. Early or late inthe season when temperatures are cooler, irrigatingonly once per week is usually adequate.

Never water grass daily except during establish-ment. Daily irrigation with small amounts encourages ashallow root system and reduced drought tolerance, asshown in figure 17. Because roots generally grow wherethe soil is moist, a shallow root system also preventsefficient uptake of plant nutrients. Shallow, frequent irri-gation increases evaporative water loss from the soil.

Figure 17. The healthy, deep-rooted grass on the leftresults from proper irrigation. The weak, shallow-rootedgrass on the right results from light frequent irrigation.

Irrigating Trees and ShrubsWoody ornamental trees and shrubs have a deeper,

more extensive root systems than turfgrasses or herba-ceous ornamental plants. The root system of a maturetree, for instance, extends two to three times the canopyspread and may go down several feet into the soil. Woodyplants, therefore, can extract moisture from the soil evenwhen the soil surface appears bone dry and can survivelong dry periods without supplemental irrigation.

Use drip irrigation on trees and shrubs in the highwater-use zones of the landscape. Locate the emittersnear the drip line of plants where the concentration ofabsorbing roots is the highest. During extended dryperiods, operate the system two to three times perweek. Run the system long enough to thoroughly wetthe soil 18 to 24 inches deep.

Regular and thorough watering of newly plantedtrees and shrubs will encourage good root establishmentand greater drought resistance. See page 17 for sugges-tions on survival watering during drought or restrictions.Irrigating Herbaceous Ornamentals (Annuals and Perennials)

Herbaceous ornamentals vary widely in their toleranceto drought. Some will perform adequately with a minimumof supplemental water while others require close attentionto soil moisture. Irrigation can be provided most efficiently ifthe plants within a bed have similar water needs.Herbaceous ornamentals generally have a shallower rootsystem than woody ornamentals and are among the firstplants in the landscape to show water stress during dryperiods. Water these plants once or twice a week and usedrip irrigation whenever possible. If you can not waterbecause of restrictions, remember that these plants areless costly to replace than trees and shrubs.

STEP 6: USE OF MULCHESMulching is one of the most beneficial landscape

practices. Mulches conserve moisture by preventingevaporative water loss from the soil surface and reduc-ing the need for supplemental irrigation during periodsof limited rainfall. By maintaining an even moisture sup-ply in the soil, mulches prevent fluctuations in soilmoisture that can damage roots. See figure 18.

Figure 18. Moisture level of mulched vs. bare soil

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Mulches also prevent crusting of the soil surfaceand allow water to penetrate readily to plant roots.They insulate the roots of plants from summer heat andwinter cold and help control weeds that compete withplants for moisture. By serving as a barrier between theplant and soil, mulches help discourage soilborne dis-eases that stress plants and cause them to have ahigher demand for water.

Islands of unplanted organic mulch designed toblend with the landscape are an economical way to retro-fit an existing landscape to make it more water efficientwhile reducing maintenance requirements. See figure 19.

Figure 19. Islands of natural organic mulch that blendwith the landscape are an economical way of con-serving water while reducing maintenance.

Aside from occasional weed control and topdress-ing with additional mulch, unplanted mulched areasrequire no water and little routine maintenance.

Pine straw, pine-bark, mini-nuggets and shreddedhardwood mulch or chips are some of the best mulchesfor a water-wise landscape. These fine-texturedmulches hold moisture in the soil better than coarse-textured mulches like large-nugget pine bark. They alsoare nonmatting and allow water, nutrients and oxygento freely penetrate to plant roots.

Inorganic mulches, on the other hand, such as rock,gravel and marble, absorb and reradiate heat from the sunand increase water loss from plants and soil. Table 4 com-pares several commonly used mulches on the market.

Apply approximately 3 inches of mulch under orna-mental plants in the landscape. Avoid applying too muchmulch because it encourages shallow roots, which areeasily damaged by excessive cold, heat or drought.

Where possible, extend the mulched area two tothree times the canopy spread of ornamental trees andshrubs. Research shows that the roots of ornamentalplants grow far beyond the canopy spread, so mulchingas large an area as practical is important.

Once mulch is in place, use your hand to pull itback 2 to 3 inches away from the trunk of trees andshrubs. Keeping mulch away from the trunk will helpprevent wood rotting diseases.

During periods of limited rainfall, make certain suffi-cient mulch is maintained beneath plants. If wateringrestrictions prevent you from irrigating, mulches will

help conserve the moisture remaining in the soil.Placing newspapers under organic mulches not

only improves water conservation in the soil but also isan excellent way to recycle. Place them on the soil sur-face under organic mulch at planting time. They mayalso be used on established ornamentals by carefullyremoving the organic mulch from around the plants,placing the newspapers two sheets thick on the soilsurface and reapplying the mulch. Be sure to wet thenewspapers thoroughly immediately after application;otherwise, they may pull moisture from the soil.

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Table 4. Advantages and disadvantages of commonlyused mulches

MulchPine Straw

Pine Bark

Shredded/ChippedHardwood Bark

Fall Leaves

Grass Clippings

Pecan Hulls

Gravel, MarbleChips, VolcanicRock

Newspaper

Landscape Fabric

Plastic Film

Advantages

An excellent mulch forwater conservation

Mini-nuggets conservemoisture better thanlarge nuggets. Theyalso stay seated betteron the landscape thanlarge nuggets.

Provides a durable,long-lasting mulch

An overlooked andreadily availablemulch. Shreddedleaves stay seatedbetter on the land-scape and conservemoisture better thanunshredded leaves.

None

An acceptable andeconomical mulchwhere available

Long lasting

Placed two sheetsthick under organicmulch, newspaperhelps conserve mois-ture while allowingwater and nutrients topenetrate.

Allows nutrients andwater to penetrate toplant roots. Preventsmost weeds.

None

Disadvantages

Flammable whenextremely dry. Fades toa dul gray-brown colorwith age. Decomposesrather quickly andrequires annual top-dressing with additionalpine straw.

None

None

Not as neat or uni-form in appearanceas pine straw andpine bark

Decompose quickly,mat down and mold.Not recommended.Compost them instead.

Rough looking. Moldwith age. Attractwildlife when fresh.

Absorb and reradiateheat. Unnatural inappearance. Not rec-ommended.

When placed toothick (more than twolayers), it can serveas a barrier to waterand nutrients.

Aggravating to install.Does not preventnutsedge and otherpersistent weeds.Must be covered byan organic mulch.

Prevents oxygen, nutri-ents and water fromreaching plant roots.Not recommended.

STEP 7: APPROPRIATEMAINTENANCE

By following the six previous steps toward waterconservation in the landscape, you will have a beautifullandscape that not only saves water and money butalso requires minimal maintenance.

The objective of Xeriscape maintenance is todiscourage water-demanding new growth on plants. Inother words, keep plants healthy, but do not encouragegrowth at all times. Depending on your current level ofmaintenance, this may require you to fertilize less oftenwith less fertilizer, to prune only when necessary andlightly when essential and, of course, to irrigate less.Remember, a Xeriscape-type landscape is a low-main-tenance landscape. By working smarter, not harder, inthe landscape, you’ll save time, energy and water with-out sacrificing the beauty of the environment.

Fertilize Less and Use Slow-release FertilizersWhen purchasing a fertilizer, look closely at its con-

tents. Nitrogen, the first number in the analysis, is theelement that promotes new growth. Purchase a fertiliz-er having nitrogen in a slow-release form, such assulfur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde, IBDU (isobuty-lene-diurea), or methylene urea. Some new productson the market feed plants for an entire growing seasonwith one application. Slow-release type fertilizers gen-erally cost more than soluble all-purpose garden fertil-izers, such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10, but they last longerby releasing nutrients gradually. Also, they do not leachfrom the soil or wash away in run-off as readily as all-purpose fertilizers.

Always check the application rate on the label. Thelabel usually suggests an application rate for optimumgrowth. This application rate is ideal for newly plantedornamental plants and turfgrasses to encourage healthynew growth and plant establishment. However, onceplants are established, the recommended applicationrate of fertilizer can be reduced without sacrificing quali-ty or appearance. This reduction in application rate isparticularly important before or during dry periods.

Leaving grass clippings on turfgrass at each mow-ing, a process called grasscycling, supplies the grasswith recycled nutrients and reduces the need for supple-mental fertilizer. Grasscycling does not promote thatch, aspongy condition of the turf. Thatch results from a build-up of grass stems, shoots and roots, not clippings. Asmuch as one-third of the nutrients applied to your lawncan be recycled back to the grass through grasscycling.

Soil Testing Saves GuessworkSoil pH, a measure of a soil’s acidity or alkalinity,

affects nutrient availability and uptake. Take a separatesoil sample from your turf and ornamental areas everytwo to three years to monitor pH and nutrient levels todetermine if you need to add lime or otherwise adjustthe chemical balance of the soil. Soil testing is availablethrough you local Cooperative Extension Service office.

Avoid Shearing PlantsJust like nitrogen fertilizer, shearing promotes

water-demanding new growth on plants. When pruningis required, use hand shears or loppers to thin branch-es and twigs to a side branch or bud. Thinning resultsin a more open, natural canopy and is less stressful tothe plant than shearing. See figure 20.

Figure 20. Thinning (right) is better than shearing (left).

Proper Mowing Saves WaterProper mowing practices are of particular impor-

tance in Xeriscape-type landscapes. Mow at the rec-ommended height (Table 5), and mow often enough sothat no more than one-third of the leaf tissue isremoved at each mowing. For example, if tall fescue isto be maintained at a height of 2 inches, then it wouldbe cut when it reaches 3 inches. Research shows thatraising the mower blade during dry weather and cuttingthe grass higher encourages deeper rooting, increasesturf survival during drought and reduces water demand.

Mow turf in shaded areas higher than turf in fullsun. Avoid scalping and stressing the grass and makecertain the mower blade is sharp at all time.

Table 5. Mowing heights for turfgrasses in Georgia

Turfgrass Mowing Height (Inches)Centipede 1 to 1.5Common Bermuda 1 to 2Hybrid Bermuda 0.5 to 1.5Tall fescue 2 to 3St. Augustine 2 to 3Zoysia 0.5 to 1.5

Aerating Turfgrass Improves Water MovementAeration or coring of turf areas is sometimes

required to relieve soil compaction and to increase airand water movement into the soil. It is particularly helpfulon slopes where water run-off is possible and in areas ofheavy foot traffic where compaction has occurred. Aera-tion is best accomplished with a power aerator that hashollow tines to remove small cores of soil. Many rentalstores have this type of equipment available. Aeration isbest during periods of active plant growth and when the

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soil is moist enough to allow deep penetration of thetines. Generally, aeration is used to correct soil problemsand is not done on a routine basis.

For additional information on turfgrass mainte-nance, see Georgia Extension Service Bulletin 733,Lawns in Georgia.

Other Water-saving Maintenance PracticesDon’t Let Weeds Compete With Plants for Water

Scout the landscape regularly and don’t let weedstake over. Hand weeding, chemical herbicides andmulches will help keep weeds in check.Scout for Pests Before You Spray

As you scout for weeds, also scout for insect anddisease pests. Control pests when they begin affectingthe appearance and overall health of a plant. Targetyour control measures to the affected plants and avoidspraying the entire landscape if the pest problem isconfined only to a small area.Make Every Drop Count

Where irrigation systems are used, check nozzlesand emitters regularly to see if they are operating effi-ciently and are delivering the right amount of water andin the right locations.Let Your Plants Tell You When They Need Water

Learn to identify the symptoms shown by plantsunder water stress. Shrubs under moisture stress willturn a gray-green color and wilt. Trees will show prema-ture fall color and shed leaves. Turfgrass will turn a dullgray-green color, and the blades will wilt and roll inward.Survival Watering During Drought or WateringRestrictions

During drought or watering restrictions, consider thereplacement cost of the plants in the landscape and dowhat you can to save the most valuable plants. Annualflowers can be replaced more readily than trees andshrubs. If you can not water, cut back annual flowers andmulch them heavily to help them survive a drought.Turfgrass and herbaceous perennials will go into a dor-mant state when under moisture stress. During wateringrestrictions, selectively hand water shrubs and treesshowing drought stress. Although trees have an exten-sive “bank account” of roots to absorb water during dryperiods, prolonged drought can severely stress and dam-age a large portion of their surface roots. A thoroughwatering of three small areas (60 gallons/100 square feetnear the drip-line) each two weeks in clay soils and oncea week in sandy soils using the hand-held hose will mini-mize tree damage during an extended dry period.

If restrictions do not allow you to water outdoorsat all, prune back trees and shrubs by one-third to one-half when they become severely wilted and begin shed-ding leaves. This will reduce water demand on the rootsand increase their chances of survival during drought.

In some Georgia counties, the use of graywater (i.e., bath water or dish water) is permissible out-doors. Check with your local health department regard-ing the legality of using gray water outdoors.

SUMMARYIn the future we are not going to have as much

water for landscape use as we had in the past. Asurban areas continue to grow and develop, water short-ages are likely to be a recurring problem because ofpopulation pressure on available water supply.

By implementing the Xeriscape fundamentalsdescribed in this publication, you can reduce your out-door water use by as much as 50 percent without sac-rificing the quality or beauty of the home environment.Let’s review each of the fundamentals once more:

1. Planning and Design: Start with an accurateplan of the site, identify site problems andpotentials, and develop a list of needs andwants to be incorporated in the new plan. Asyour plan begins to take form, divide the land-scape into water-use zones. Incorporate shadewhere possible, and develop your plan usingappropriate plants.

2. Soil Analysis: Evaluate the planting soil,including its structure, texture, water-holdingcapacity and drainage. Let the physical andchemical characteristics of the existing soil beyour guide in determining the type of soilimprovement needed.

3. Appropriate Plant Selection: Select plantsappropriate to the site and the imposed stress-es of the environment. Any of our Southernornamental plants presently on the market aregood candidates for a water-wise landscape aslong as they are adapted to the site and zonedin the landscape according to their water need.

4. Practical Turf Areas: Use turf for a function oraesthetic benefit, such as in a recreationalarea, an erodible slope or a welcome mat tothe home. Select a turfgrass that is adapted tothe site and has good drought resistance.

5. Efficient Irrigation: When irrigation isrequired, make every drop count by wateringefficiently to prevent run-off or evaporative loss.Let your plants tell you when they need water,and avoid watering according to a set scheduleor habit. Hand watering individual plants anddrip irrigation on ornamentals requires 30 per-cent to 50 percent less water than sprinkler irri-gation. Water between 9 p.m. and 9 a.m. toavoid evaporative loss of water.

6. Use of Mulches: Use fine-textured organic,nonmatting mulches when possible. Fallleaves, pine straw, pine bark, mini-nuggets andshredded hardwood bark are excellent choices.Mulch as large an area as possible under treeshrubs. Islands of unplanted mulch require nowater and little routine maintenance.

7. Appropriate Maintenance: Keep plants healthy,but do not encourage water-demanding newgrowth. Once plants are established, reduce theamount of nitrogen applied as well as the appli-

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cation rate and frequency of application. Avoidplant stress by mowing properly, by thinningshrubs instead of shearing, and by controllingweeds and pests before they affect plant health.

Remember, the landscape alone does not savewater; it is up to us to save water. Considerable watersavings can be realized simply by breaking bad water-

ing habits and learning how to water, when to water,the most efficient ways to water and the water needs ofour Southern ornamental plants.

By putting the Xeriscape fundamentals into practice inyour landscape, you will become a good steward of theenvironment and you will be doing your part to ensureyour family and future generations, the same quality of lifewe all have grown to enjoy and appreciate in Georgia.

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GEORGIA HARDINESS ZONES

Range of average annual minimum temperatures for each zone.

Zone Range in degrees 6b -5 to 07a 0 to 57b 5 to 108a 10 to 158b 15 to 20

Botanical Name and Common Name

Antigonon leptopusCoral Vine

Campsis radicansTrumpet Vine

Clematis hybrids Flowered Clematis

Fatshedera lizeiFatshedera

Ficus pumila Climbing Fig

Gelsemium sempervirens*Carolina Jessamine

Lonicera x heckrottiiGoldflame Honeysuckle

Lonicera sempervirens*Trumpet Honeysuckle

Parthenocissus quinquefoliaVirginia Creeper

Parthenocissus tricuspidataJapanese Creeper

Rosa banksiaeBanks Rose

Rosa speciesClimbing Roses

Trachelospermum jasminoidesStar or Confederate Jasmine

19

DURABLE PLANTS FOR XERISCAPE-TYPE LANDSCAPESSee pages 9 and 10 for information on how to use these tables.

VinesWater'UseZone

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone

8

6b to 8

6b to 8

7 to 8

7b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

7b to 8

6b to 8

7b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

7 to 8

Flower Color/Time of Bloom

Reddish Pink/Summer

Orange/Summer

Purple, Pink,White/Spring

Not Showy

Not Showy

Yellow/Spring

Pink/Spring

Orange-Red-Yellow/Spring

Greenish White/Summer Not Showy

Not Showy

White/Spring

Many Colors/Spring

White/Summer

GrowthRate

Fast

Fast

Medium

Medium

Slow

Medium

Fast

Fast

Fast

Fast

Fast

Fast

Medium

Group

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Semi-evergreen

Deciduous

Evergreen

Exposure

Sun

Sun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shade

Shade/Semi-shade

Sun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun to Shade

Sun/Shade

Sun

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun

* Denotes native Georgia plant' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

20

Botanical Name and Common NameAjuga reptansCarpet BugleHedera canariensisAlgerian IvyHemerocallis spp.DaylilyHypericum calycinumAaronsbeard St. Johns WortJuniperus conferta'Blue Pacific'Shore JuniperJuniperus horizontalisCreeping JuniperOphiopogon japonicus Dwarf Lilyturf or MondoPhlox subulata Moss Phlox or ThriftTrachelospermum asiaticumAsiatic Jasmine

Ground CoversWater'UseZone1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

2,3

2,3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone7a to 8

8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

7b to 8

Flower Color/Time of BloomPurple/Spring

None

Many colors/SummerYellow/Spring

None

None

Not Showy

Pink, White,Purple/Spring Fine

GrowthRateMediumto fastMedium

Fast

Mediumto fast

Fast

Moderate

Medium

Medium

Medium

GroupEvergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Semi-evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

ExposureShade/Semi-shadeShade/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shade

Sun

Sun

Shade

Sun

Sun/Semi-shade

' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

NormalHeight2-4 in.

6-8 in.

12 in.

8-12 in.

12-18 in.

12-24 in.

5-6 in.

3-4 in.

4-6 in.

Botanical Name and Common NameCalamagrostis x acutiflora'Stricta' Feather Reed GrassCarex morrowii Japanese Sedge GrassChasmanthum latifolium*Upland Sea OatsCortaderia sellonanaPampas GrassCortaderia sellonana ‘Pumila’Dwarf Pampas GrassElymus glaucusBlue Wild RyeErianthus ravennaeRavenna Grass

Ornamental GrassesWater' UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

7b to 8

6b to 7a

6b to 8

6b to 8

TextureFine

Fine

Fine

Fine toMediumMedium

Medium

Medium toCoarse

Height and Spread5 ft./3 ft.

1 ft./1 ft.

3 ft./2 ft.

8 ft./6 ft.

3 ft./4 ft.

5 ft./4 ft.

9 ft./4 ft.

PanicleLength12 in.

3 in.

8 in.

20 in.

2 ft.

10 in.

20 in.

ExposureSun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Continued on next page

21

Botanical Name and Common NameMiscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’Porcupine GrassMiscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’Variegated EqualiaPennisetum alopecuroides Australian Fountain GrassPennisetum setaceum Fountain GrassPennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’Crimson Fountain GrassPennisetum villosum Feathertop GrassPhalaris arundinacea ‘Picta’Ribbon Grass/Gardeners-Garters

Ornamental Grasses (continued)

Water'UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

Use Like anAnnualUse Like anAnnual6b to 8

6b to 8

TextureMedium

Fine

Fine

Fine

Fine

Fine

Fine

Height and Spread7 ft./4 ft.

6 ft./3 ft.

3 ft./2 ft.

4 ft./4 ft.

4 ft./4 ft.

3 ft./2 ft.

2 ft./3 ft.

PanicleLength12 in.

11 in.

3 in.

12 in.

12 in.

3 in.

6 in.

ExposureSun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Light Shade

' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

Botanical Name and Common NameAbelia x grandiflora AbeliaAucuba japonica 'Nana'Dwarf AucubaBerberis thunbugi Japanese BarberryBuxus microphylla var. japonica Semi-Japanese BoxwoodDeutzia gracilis Slender DeytziaGardenia radicans Creeping GardeniaAzaleas HybridsHydrangea arborescens‘Anabelle’Smooth HydrangeaIlex cornuta ‘Carissa’Carissa HollyIlex cornuta ‘Rotunda’Dwarf Chinese HollyIlex crenata ‘Compacta’Compacta Holly

Small Shrubs (2 ft.-5 ft.)Water'UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

7a to 8

6b to 8a

7a to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 7

TextureFine

Coarse

Medium

Fine

Fine

Fine

Fine

Coarse

Medium

Coarse

Fine toMedium

GrowthRateSlow

Slow

Medium

Slow

Medium

Slow

Slow toMediumFast

Slow

Slow

Medium

GroupEvergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Semi-evergreenEvergreen

Evergreen

Semi-evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

ExposureSun/Semi-shadeShade/ Semi-shadeSun/ Semi-shadeSun/Shade

Sun/ Semi-shadeSemi-shade

Semi-shade

Sun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shade

NormalHeight3-4 ft.

3-4 ft.

3-5 ft.

3-4 ft.

2-4 ft.

2-4 ft.

3-5 ft.

3-5 ft.

3-4 ft.

3-4 ft.

3-4 ft.

FormIrregularto OvalOval

Oval

Rounded

Mounded

Spreading

UprightSpreadingRounded

Rounded

Rounded

Rounded

Continued on next page

22

Botanical Name and Common NameIlex crenata 'Green Lustre'Ilex crenata 'Helleri'(Heller) Japanese HollyIlex crenata 'Hetzi'Hetz HollyIlex vomitoria* 'Nana' Dwarf Yaupon HollyItea virginica*Virginia SweetspireJasminum floridum Showy JasmineJasminum nudiflorum Winter JasmineJuniperus davurica 'Expansa'Parsons JuniperJuniperus horizontalis 'Plumosa' Andorra JuniperKerria japonica Japanese KerriaLonicera pileata Privet HoneysucklePittosporum tobira 'Nana'Dwarf PittosporumPyracantha koidzumii 'Santa Cruz'Raphiolepis indica Indian HawthorneSantolina chamaecyparissusLavender cottonSpirea x bumalda Bumald SpireaSpirea nipponica'Snowmound'Spirea thunbergii Thunberg Spirea

Small Shrubs (2 ft.-5 ft.) (continued)

Water'UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8a

6b to 7

6b to 7

6b to 8

6b to 8b

8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

7b to 8

7b to 8

7 to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

6b to 8a

6b to 8

TextureFine toMediumFine

Fine toMediumFine

Medium

Medium

Fine

Fine

Fine

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Fine

Fine

Fine

Fine

GrowthRateMedium

Slow

Medium

Slow

Medium

Medium

Fast

Mediumto FastSlow

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Slow

Slow toMediumFast

Fast

Medium

GroupEvergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Conifer

Conifer

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

ExposureSun/ Semi-shadeSemi-shade

Sun/ Semi-shadeSun/ Semi-shadeSun/Shade

Sun/ Semi-shadeSun/Shade

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun

NormalHeight3-5 ft.

2-3 ft.

4-5 ft.

3-4 ft.

3-5 ft.

3-5 ft.

3-4 ft.

2 ft.

2 ft.

3-5 ft.

2-3 ft.

3-4 ft.

2-3 ft.

2-4 ft.

2-4 ft.

2-3 ft.

3-5 ft.

3-4 ft.

FormRounded

Spreading

Rounded

Rounded

UprightBranchingUpright

MoundedSpreadingSpreading

Spreading

UprightArchingOval

Spreading

ProstrateSpreadingSpreading

Irregular

Mounded

Mounded

Irregular

* Denotes native Georgia plant' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

23

Botanical Name and Common NameAucuba japonicaJapanese AucubaBerberis julianae Wintergreen BarberryBuxus sempervirens Common BoxwoodForsythia intermedia hybrids Border ForsythiaHydrangea macrophylla Bigleaf HydrangeaHydrangea quercifolia Oakleaf HydrangeaIlex comuta'Burfordii Nana' Dwarf Burford HollyIlex glabraJasminum mesnyi Primrose JasmineKalmia latifolia*Mountain LaurelSouthern Indian Azalea

Spiraea prunifolia'Plena' Bridalwreath SpireaSpiraea vanhouttei Vanhoutte SpireaYucca filamentosa Adam's Needle Yucca

Medium Shrubs (5 ft.-8 ft.)Water'UseZone1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 31, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 7a

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 88

6b to 7

7a to 8

6b to 8

6b to 7b

6b to 8

TextureCoarse

Medium

Fine toMediumMedium

Coarse

Coarse

MediumtoCoarseMediumMedium

Medium

Medium

Fine toMedium

Medium

Coarse

GrowthRateMedium

Slow toMediumSlow toMediumFast

Fast

Medium

Slow

MediumMedium

Slow toMediumMediumto FastMediumto Fast

Mediumto FastMedium

GroupEvergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Semi-evergreenDeciduous

Evergreen

EvergreenEvergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

ExposureSemi-shade/shadeSun

Semi-shade

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun/ShadeSun/Semi-shadeSemi-shade

Semi-shade

Sun

Sun

Sun

NormalHeight6-8 ft.

5-6 ft.

5-8 ft.

5-7 ft.

5-8 ft.

6-8 ft.

5-6 ft.

6-8 ft.5-6 ft.

5-8 ft.

5-8 ft.

5-7 ft.

5-7 ft.

5-6 ft.

FormUpright

Oval

Rounded

Irregular

Rounded

UprightIrregularRounded

RoundedMoundedTrailingUpright

RoundedIrregularRounded

Rounded

Upright

* Denotes native Georgia plant' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

Botanical Name and Common NameBuddleia davidii Butterfly BushCalycanthus floridus*SweetshrubCamellia japonicaCamellia

Large Shrubs (8 ft. and up)Water'UseZone1, 2,3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

TextureMedium

Medium

MediumtoCoarse

GrowthRateFast

Medium

Slow toMedium

GroupDeciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

ExposureSun

Sun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shade

NormalHeight10-15 ft.

8-12 ft.

8-10 ft.

FormUprightOvalBroadRoundedRoundedto Oval

Continued on next page

24

Botanical Name and Common NameCamellia sansanqua Sasanqua CamelliaChaenomeles speciosa Flowering QuinceCupressocyparis leylandii Leyland CypressHamamllis vemalis Vernal WitchhazelHibiscus syriacus Shrub Althea (Rose of Sharon)Ilex x attenuate 'Fosteri' Foster HollyIlex comuta 'Burfordii' Burford HollyIlex vomitoria* Yaupon HollyJuniperus chinensis 'Hetzi'Hetz JuniperJuniperus chinensis 'Pftzeriana' Pfitzer JuniperLeucothoe populifolia*FetterbrushMagnolia stellata Star MagnoliaMyrica cerifera* Southern WaxmyrtleOsmanthus fortunei Fortunes OsmanthusPhiladelphis coronarius Semi-sweet MockorangePittosporum tobiraJapanese PittosporumPodocarpus macrophyllus var. maki Semi-Southern YewPyrancantha speciesFirethornRhododendron austrinum*Florida Azalea (Red Flower)Rhododendroncalendulaceum*Flame Azalea(Yellow-pink Flower)

Large Shrubs (8 ft. and up) (continued)

Water'UseZone1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

2, 3

2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

GeorgiaHardinessZone7 to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 7b

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

7a to 8

6b to 8a

7b to 8b

6b to 8

6b to 8a

7b to 8b

7a to 8b

6b to 8

6b to 7

6b to 7

TextureMedium

Medium

Fine

Medium

Medium

Medium

Coarse

Fine

Fine

Fine

Medium

Coarse

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

GrowthRateSlow toMediumMedium

Fast

Medium

Medium

Slow toMediumMediumto FastMediumto FastFast

Fast

Medium

Medium

Medium

Slow toMediumMedium

Fast

Medium

Fast

Medium

Medium

GroupEvergreen

Deciduous

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Conifer

Conifer

Evergreen

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

ExposureSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

Semi-shade/ShadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSemi-shade

Sun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Shade

Sun

Semi-shade/ShadeSemi-shade/Shade

NormalHeight8-10 ft.

8-10 ft.

60-70 ft.

8-12 ft.

8-12 ft.

8-10 ft.

8-12 ft.

8-12 ft.

15 ft.

8-10 ft.

8-12 ft.

10-15 ft.

8-10 ft.

8-10 ft.

10-12 ft.

8-10 ft.

8-12 ft.

10-12 ft.

8-12 ft.

10-15 ft.

FormIrregularto UprightRounded

Upright

DenseRoundedRounded

Upright

Oval toRoundedUpright

Upright

BroadUprightUprightArchingRounded

UprightRoundedRounded

Rounded

Rounded

Upright

Irregular

Rounded

Rounded

Continued on next page

25

Botanical Name and Common NameRhododendron canescens*Piedmont Azalea (Rosy Purple Flower)Rhus typhina Staghorn SumacTemstroemia gymnanthera CleyeraVibumum lantana Wayfaringtree ViburnumVibumum opulus European CranberrybushViburnumVibumum plicatum var. tomentosum Doublefile ViburnumVibumum x pragense Prague Viburnum

Large Shrubs (8 ft. and up) (continued)

Water'UseZone1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 7

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

6b to 8a

6b to 8a

6b to 8a

TextureMedium

Fine

Medium

Coarse

Coarse

Coarse

Medium

GrowthRateMedium

Fast

Slow toMediumMedium

Medium

Medium

Medium

GroupDeciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

ExposureSemi-shade/Shade

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shade

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun/Semi-shade

NormalHeight10-15 ft.

15-25 ft.

8-10 ft.

10-15 ft.

8-12 ft.

8-10 ft.

10- 12 ft.

FormRounded

OpenSpreadingUpright

RoundSpreadingUprightSpreading

RoundSpreading

Oval

* Denotes native Georgia plant' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

Botanical Name and Common NameAcerbuergeranun Trident MapleCarpinus caroliniana* American Hornbean(Ironwood)Cercis canadensis* Redbud or Judas TreeChionanthus virginicus * Fringe Tree or Grancy Gray-beardCotinus coggygriaCommon SmoketreeErlobotrya japonicaLoquatHalesia carolina* SilverbellIlex x attenuate ‘Savannah’Savannah HollyIlex deciduaPossumhaw

Small Trees (10 ft.-30 ft.)Water'UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone7bto8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

7b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

Texture Medium

Medium

Medium

Coarse

Medium

Coarse

Medium

Coarse

Medium

GrowthRateSlow

Slow

Medium

Slow toMedium

Medium

Mediumto FastMedium

Medium

Medium

GroupDeciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Deciduous

Evergreen

Deciduous

ExposureSun

Sun/Shade

Sun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shade

Sun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shade

HeightSpread20-25 ft.10-15 ft.20-30 ft.15-25 ft.

25-30 ft.20-28 ft.10-20 ft.15-20 ft.

10-15 ft.10-15 ft.10-20 ft.8-12 ft.

20-30 ft.15-20 ft.25-30 ft.10-15 ft.20-30 ft.15-20 ft.

FormOval

LooseRounded

Oval

Irregular

UprightSpreadingRounded

Spreading

Pyramidal

LooseRounded

Continued on next page

26

Botanical Name and Common NameIlex latifollaLusterleaf HollyIlex x 'Nellie R. Stevens' Nellie R. Stevens HollyIlex opaca* American HollyKoelreuteria paniculata GoldenraintreeLagerstroemia indica Crape MyrtleMaclura pomifera Osage-orangeMagnolia x soulangiana Saucer MagnoliaMalus species Flowering CrabPinus virginiana* Virginia PinePrunus caroliniana* Carolina Laurel CherryPrunus serrulata (many cultivars) Japanese Flowering CherryPrunus x yedoensis Yoshino CherryVitex agnus-castus Chastetree

Small Trees (10 ft.-30 ft.) (continued)

Water'UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

7 to 8

6b to 8a

6b to 8a

6b to 8

Texture Coarse

Coarse

Mediumto CoarseFine

Fine

Medium

Coarse

Medium

Fine

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

GrowthRateMedium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Fast

Fast

Medium

Medium

Slow

Fast

Medium

Medium

Medium

GroupEvergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

ExposureSun/Shade

Sun/Shade

Sun/Shade

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

Sun/Shade

Sun

Sun

Sun

HeightSpread20-25 ft.15-20 ft.15-25 ft.10-15 ft.20-30 ft.15-20 ft.20-30 ft.10-15 ft.20-30 ft.10-15 ft.20-30 ft.20-30 ft.20-30 ft.

15-30 ft.15-30 ft.15-30 ft.10-30 ft.20-30 ft.15-20 ft.20-30 ft.20-30 ft.

10-15 ft.20-25 ft.15-20 ft.10-15 ft.

FormPyramidal

Pyramidal

Pyramidal

Rounded

Upright

RoundedIrregularRounded

Roundedto UprightConical

Oval

OvalSpreadingWeepingOvalSpreadingOval

* Denotes native Georgia plant' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

Botanical Name and Common NameAcer floridanum* Florida Maple or Southern Sugar MapleAcer rubrum* Red MapleAcer saccharumSugar MapleBetula nigra* River BirchCarya illinoensisPecan

Large Trees (30 ft. and up)Water'UseZone1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

GeorgiaHardinessZone6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 7a

6b to 8

7a to 8

Texture Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

GrowthRateMediumto Fast

Medium

Mediumto FastFast

Medium

GroupDeciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

ExposureSun/Semi-shade

Sun/Semi-shadeSun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

HeightSpread40-50 ft. 20-25 ft.

40-50 ft. 25-35 ft.60-80 ft.25-40 ft.40-70 ft. 40-60 ft.50-60 ft.30-40 ft.

FormOval

Rounded

Oval

Oval

Rounded

Continued on next page

27

Botanical Name and Common NameCunninghamia lanceolata Semi-common ChinafirCypressocyparis leylandii Leyland CypressFraximus pennsylvanica* Green AshGinkgo biloba Ginkgo or Maiden TreeLiriodendron tulipifera Tuliptree (Yellow Poplar)Liquidambar styraciflua* American SweetgumMagnolia grandiflora* Southern MagnoliaMetasequoia glyptostroboides Dawn RedwoodOxydendrum arboreum*SourwoodPinus elliottii* Slash PinePinus strobus* White PinePinus taeda* Loblolly PineQuercus acutissima Sawtooth OakQuercus falcata* Southern Red OakQuercus nigra*Water OakQuercus palustrisPin OakQuercus phellos*Willow OakQuercus shumardii*Shumard OakQuercus virginiana*Live OakPyrus calleryana 'Bradford' Bradford PearSophora japonicaJapanese PagodatreeTaxodium distichumCommon BaldcypressUlmus parvifoliaTrue Chinese Elm (Lacebark Elm)Zelkova serrataJapanese Zelkova

Large Trees (30 ft. and up) (continued)

Water'UseZone1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

GeorgiaHardinessZone7b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b, 7a

7b to 8

6b to 7a

6b to 7

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

6b to 8

6b to 8

7b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 7

6b to 8

6b to 8

6b to 8a

Texture Fine

Fine

Medium

Medium

Coarse

Coarse

Coarse

Fine

Mediumto CoarseMedium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Coarse

Medium

Medium

Fine

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Fine

Medium

Medium

GrowthRateSlow

Fast

Medium

Very Slow

Fast

Fast

Slow toMediumFast

Medium

Fast

Medium

Fast

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Medium

Mediumto FastFast

Medium

Fast

Fast

GroupEvergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Evergreen

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Evergreen

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

Deciduous

ExposureSun/Shade

Sun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Semi-shadeSun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun

HeightSpread30-75 ft. 10-30 ft.60-70 ft.

50-60 ft. 20-30 ft.50-70 ft. 30-40 ft.70-90 ft.35-50 ft.60-75 ft.30-40 ft.60-80 ft.40-50 ft.40-50 ft.20-25 ft.30-40 ft.15-20 ft.

80-100 ft.15-20 ft.

80-100 ft.25-40 ft.

80-100 ft.20-30 ft.35-45 ft.35-45 ft.70-80 ft.30-40 ft.80-90 ft.40-50 ft.70-80 ft.40-50 ft.

80-100 ft.40-50 ft.40-60 ft.40-60 ft.60-80 ft.50-60 ft.35-40 ft.15-20 ft.50-75 ft.50-60 ft.50-70 ft.20-30 ft.40-50 ft.30-40 ft.50-80 ft.50-60 ft.

FormConical

Upright

UprightSpreadingIrregular

BroadRoundedBroadRoundedUprightPyramidalConical

Upright

HorizontalBranchingPyramidal

HorizontalBranchingBroadOvalRounded

Rounded

Pyramidal

Rounded

Pyramidal

Rounded

UprightRoundedUprightSpreadingConical

Rounded

BroadOval

* Denotes native Georgia plant' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

28

Botanical Name and Common NameAgeratum houstonianum AgeratumAnthirrhinum majusSnapdragonBegonia x semperflorensWax BegoniaBrassica oleraceaOrnamental KaleCalendula officinalisCalendulaCapsicum annuumOrnamental PepperCatharanthus roseusMadagascar PeriwinkleCelosia cristataCockscombCleome hassleranaSpider PlantColeus x hybridusColeusCosmos bipinnatus, C. x sulphureusCosmosDigitalis purpureaFoxgloveEschscholzia califomicaCalifornia PoppyGaillardia pulchellaBlanket FlowerGomphrena globosaGlobe AmaranthImpatiens walleranaImpatiensLimonium sinuatumStaticeLobularia maritimaSweet AlyssumMelampodium paludosumMelampodiumNicotiana alataFlowering TobaccoPelargonium x hortorumGeraniumPetunia x hybridaPetuniaPortulaca grandifloraRose Moss

AnnualsWater'Use Zone1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

Height (in.)24

6-36

6-12

6

12-24

6-12

6-18

6-30

36-60

12-36

12-48

12-60

12-24

12-30

8-24

6-36

12-24

4-8

24-36

12-36

12-24

6-12

1-3

Color*Foliage

All but B

WPR

Foliage

YGO

Fruit

WPL

All but B

WPL

Foliage

YGP

All but B

All

YGR

WPL

All but B

All but R

WPL

Y

All but B

All but BY

All

All but B

Suggested Planting TimeSpring/Summer

Spring/Fall

Spring/Summer

Early Fall/Late Winter

Early Fall/Late Winter

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Fall/Spring

Early Fall/Late Winter

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Early Fall/Late Winter

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

ExposurePartial Shade

Sun/Partial ShadePartial Shade/ShadeSun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun

Partial Shade/ShadeSun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun

Partial Shade/ShadeSun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun

Continued on next page

29

Botanical Name and Common NameSalvia splendens, S. farinaceaSalviaSenecio cinerariaDusty MillerTagetes erecta, T. patulaMarigoldVerbenaVerbenaViola x wittrockianaPansyZinnia elegansZinniaZinnia linearisCreeping Zinnia

Annuals (continued)

Water'Use Zone1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

Height (in.)10-30

6-12

6-36

6-12

6

6-36

8-10

Color*RWB

Foliage

YGRO

All

All

All but B

Y

Suggested Planting TimeSpring/Summer

Spring to Fall

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Fall/Winter

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

ExposureSun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun

* Colors: B = Blue; G = Gold; L = Lavender; P = Purple; R = Red; W = White; Y = Yellow; 0 = Orange' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

Botanical Name and Common NameAchillea millefoliumYarrowAquilegiaColumbineAjuga reptansCarpet BugleAster sp.AsterAsclepeas tuberosaButterfly WeedAstilbe japonicaAstilbeBaptisia australisBaptisiaChrysanthemum x morlfoliumGarden ChrysanthemumChrysanthemum x suberbumShasta DaisyCoreopsis grandiflora, C. lanceolata, C. verticillataCoreopsisEchinacea purpureaPurple ConeflowerGaillardia x grandifloraGaillardiaGerbera jamesoniiGerbera Daisy

Herbaceous PerennialsWater'Use Zone1, 2, 3

1, 2

1

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

Height2-4 ft.

2-3 ft.

2-3 in.

1-5 ft.

1-2 ft.

1-3 ft.

3 ft.

1-3 ft.

1-3 ft.

1-3 ft.

3-5 ft.

1-2½ ft.

1 ft.

Color*WPYG

WPBY

BWP

All

OY

WPR

B

B

W

YG

LP

YRO

B

Time of BloomSummer

Spring

Spring

Summer/Fall

Summer

Spring

Spring

Summer/Fall

Summer

Summer

Summer

Summer/Fall

Spring/Fall

ExposureSun

Partial Shade

Sun/Shade

Sun

Sun

Partial Shade/ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun/Partial Shade

Continued on next page

30

Botanical Name and Common NameGypsophila paniculataBabys breathHelleborus orientalisLenten RoseHemerocallisDaylilyHeuchera americansCoral BellsHostaHostalberis sempervirensEvergreen CandytuftIris hybrids, I. siberica, I. kaempferi, I. tectorum, I. danfordae, I. reticulate, I. crestata IrisKniphofia uvariaTritoma (Red Hot Poker)Liatris scariosaGayfeatherMonarda didymaBeebalmPaeonia lactifloraPeonyPhlox paniculata, P. subulata, P. divaricataPhloxRudbeckia hirta, R. hybridaRudbeckiaSalvia farinaceaBlue SalviaSedum spectabileSedumSolidago hybridsGoldenrodStokesia cyaneaStokes AsterVerbena canadensis, V. tenuisectaVerbenaVeronica spicataSpeedwell

Herbaceous Perennials (continued)

Water'Use Zone1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

Height2-4 ft.

12-15 in.

1-4 ft.

6-12 in.

1-3 ft.

12 in.

2-4 ft.

2-4 ft.

2-6 ft.

2-3 ft.

3-4 ft.

1-3 ft.

2-3 ft.

½-5 ft.

1-2 ft.

1-3 ft.

12-15 in.

6 in.

1-2ft.

Color*W

WPL

B

WPR

Foliage

W

All

ROY

LP

WRP

W,PR

All

YOG

WBRL

WPR

Y

B

WBL

BW

Time of BloomSummer/Fall

Winter/Spring

Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring/Summer

Spring

Spring/Summer

Summer

Summer/Fall

Spring/Summer

Spring

Spring/Summer

Summer/Fall

Summer/Fall

Spring/Fall

Summer/Fall

Summer

Spring/Fall

Summer

ExposureSun

Partial Shade/ShadeSun/Partial ShadeShade

Partial Shade/ShadeSun/Partial ShadeSun/Partial Shade

Sun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun/Shade

Sun

Sun/Partial ShadeSun

Sun

Sun

Sun

Sun/Partial Shade

* Colors: B = Blue; G = Gold; L = Lavender; P = Purple; R = Red; W = White; Y = Yellow; 0 = Orange' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

31

Botanical Name and Common Name

Axonopus affinisCarpet Grass

Cynodon dactylon hybrids'Tifway', 'Tifgreen', Bermuda

Eremochloa ophiuroidesCentipede

Festuca arundinaceaTall Fescue

Poa pratensis Kentucky Bluegrass

Stenotaphrum secundatumSt. Augustine

Zoysia hybrids'Emerald', 'Meyer', 'Matrella',Zoysia

TurfgrassesWater'UseZone

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2, 3

1, 2

1, 2, 3

1, 2

GeorgiaHardinessZone

7b to 8

6b to 8

7 to 8

6b, 7b

6b

8

6b to 8

ShadeTolerance

Fair

Poor

Fair

Good

Good to Fair

Excellent

Good

Propagation

Seed

Sprigs,Plugs, Sod

Sprigs,Seeds,Plugs, Sod

Seed, Sod

Seed, Sod

Sprigs,Plugs, Sod

Sprigs,Plugs, Sod

Green Foliage

Spring,Summer, Fall

Spring,Summer, Fall

Spring,Summer, Fall

Most of Year

Most of Year Ifin Shade

Spring,Summer, Fall

Spring,Summer, Fall

Plant

May-July

May-July

May-July

Sept-Oct

Sept-Oct

May-July

May-July

' Water Use Zones: 1 = regular irrigation; 2 = moderate, occasional irrigation; 3 = low, no irrigation (natural rainfall)

32

COMMERCIALLY DESIGNED XERISCAPE-TYPE LANDSCAPES:BEFORE AND AFTER RENOVATION

The landscape designs that follow show before and after plans of actual landscapes renovated for water conserva-tion. In some cases, the water-use zone changed even though the type of turfgrass was not changed. This is becausethe owner adjusted his water management practices.

Before

Plant List1. Burford Holly2. Dwarf Yaupon Holly3. Fescue Turf4. Foster Holly5. Leyland Cypress6. Fatsia 7. Trees (existing)

33

After

1. Azalea2. Carissa Holly3. Crape Myrtle4. Daylily5. Dogwood6. Dwarf Yaupon Holly7. Dwarf Yaupon Holly8. Forsythia9. Foster Holly

10. Hybrid Bermuda Turf11. Japanese Black Pine12. Juniper, Sargents

13. Juniper, Blue Pacific14. Leyland Cypress15. Liriope16. Dwarf Abelia17. Otto Luyken Laurel18. Perennials and Herbs19. Pin Oak20. Quinch21. River Birch22. Pink Loropetalum23. Trees (existing)

Plant List

Design courtesy of Allgood Outdoors Alpharetta, GAStrickland residenceJacob Zimmerman, designer

34

Before

1. Azalea2. Blue Pacific Juniper3. Willow Oak4. Chrysanthemums5. Compcata Holly6. Flowering Cherry7. Hosta8. Nellie R. Stevens Holly

9. Oaks10. Parsons Juniper11. Pines12. Poplar13. Rose Creek Abelia14. Waxleaf Ligustrum15. Turf (Fescue)

Plant List

35

After

1. Abelia, Sherwood2. Annuals3. Annuals4. Annuals5. Azalea, G.G. Gerbing6. Azalea, G. Tabor7. Bradford Pear8. Christmas Fern9. Cleyera

10. Daylily, Aztec Gold11. Dogwood12. Dwarf Yaupon Holly13. Pink Muhly Grass14. Flowering Ivy

15. Holly16. Hosta17. Juniper18. Juniper19. Liriope, Green20. Oak21. Poplar22. Burgundy Loropetalum23. Redbud24. Redbud25. Southern Shield Fern26. Wax Myrtle27. Yaupon Holly28. Turf (Fescue)

Plant List

Design courtesy of Bregenzer's, Inc.Alpharetta, GAPilkington residenceRandolph Beck, designer

36

Before

1. Fescue Turf2. Hemlock3. Perennials4. Rhododendron5. Shrubs (Assorted)6. Trees (Native)

Plant List

37

After

1. Anise2. Fescue Turf3. Hemlock4. Herb Garden5. Indica Azalea6. Leucothoe7. Mountain Laurel

8. Perennials9. Phlox

10. Rhododendron11. Satsuki Azalea12. Seasonal Color13. Pink Muhly Grass14. Trees (Native)

Plant List

Design courtesy of Lifescapes, Inc.Canton, GASewell Guest CabinPat Noe, designer

38

Before

1. Boxwood2. Dogwood3. Eleagnus4. Holly5. Nandina6. Pfitzer Juniper

Plant List

39

After

1. Azalea, George Tabor2. Azalea, Gumpo3. Boxwood, American4. Dogwood5. Dogwood, Existing6. Little Gen Magnolia7. Foster Holly

8. Holly, Existing9. Hydrangea, Bigleaf

10. Mondo Grass11. Otto Luyken Laurel12. Yaupon Holly

(Tree Form)13. Zoysia Turf

Plant List

Design courtesy of William T. Smith & AssociatesAtlanta, GARedd-Chezmar residenceWilliam T. Smith, designer

REFERENCESBOOKS

Armitage, Allan M. Herbaceous Perennial Plants: ATreatise on their Identification, Culture, and GardenAttributes. 1989. Varsity Press, Inc., P.O. Box 6301,Athens, GA 30604.

Carefree Landscapes. 1990. Storey Communications,Inc., Pownal, VT 05261.

Dirr, Michael A. Manual of Woody Landscape Plants:Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics,Culture, Propagation and Use. Stipes PublishingCompany, Champaign, IL 61802.

Duncan, Wilbur H. and Leonard E. Foote. Wildflowersof the Southeastern United States. 1975. TheUniversity of Georgia Press, Athens, GA 30602.

Ekstrom, Nicholas H. and Ruth Rogers Clausen.Perennials for American Gardens. 1989. RandomHouse, New York. ISBN 0-394-55704-9.

Foote, Leonard E. and Samuel B. Jones, Jr. NativeShrubs and Woody Vines of the Southeast:Landscaping Uses and Identification. 1989. TimberPress, 9999 SW Wilshire, Portland, OR 97225.

Halfacre, R. Gordon and Anne R. Shawcroft.Landscape Plants of the Southeast. 1979. SparksPress, P.O. Box 26747, Raleigh, NC 27611.

Heriteau , Jacqueline. National Arboretum Book ofOutstanding Garden Plants. 1990. Stonsong Press,Simon and Schuster, 1230 Avenue of theAmericas, New York, NY 10020.

Odenwald, Neal G. Plants for the South. Claitor’s Publish-ingCompany, P.O. Box 3333, Baton Rouge, LA 70821.

Rice, Graham. Plants for Problem Places. 1988. TimberPress, 9999 SW Wilshire, Portland, OR 97225.

Robinette, Gary O. Water Conservation in Landscape:Design and Management. 1984. Van Nostrand ReinholdCompany, 135 W. 50th St., New York, NY 10020.

Smith, Ken L. 40 Ways to Save Water. 1977.Environmental Design Consultants, 253 BeechRoad, Newbury Park, CA 91320.

Taylor’s Guide to Water-Saving Gardening. 1990.Houghton Mifflin, 2 Park St., Boston, MA 02108.

Welch, William C. Perennial Garden Color for Texasand the South. 1989. Taylor Publishing Company,1550 W. Mockingbird Lane, Dallas, TX 75235.

PUBLICATIONSCalifornia Department of Water Resources. Designing

a Public Information Program for WaterConservation. 1985. P.O. Box 942836,Sacramento, CA 94236.

Carrow, Robert N. Turfgrass Water Use, DroughtResistance and Rotting Patterns in the Southeast,Publication ERC 01-91.1991. Department ofAgronomy, College of Agricultural andEnvironmental Sciences, the University of Georgia,Griffin, GA 30220-1797.

City of Aurora. Landscaping for Water Conservation:Xeriscape! 1989. Aurora, CO 80040.

Extension Horticulture Department. Landscape WaterConservation ... Xeriscape, Texas CooperativeExtension Service Bulletin B-1584. Texas A&MUniversity, College Station, TX 77843.

Fort Worth Water Department. Xeriscape. P.O. Box870, Fort Worth, TX 76101.

Georgia Water Wise Council. Water Wise News. 1738County Farm Road, Suite 200, Marietta, GA30060-4012.

Knox, Gary W. Coping with Drought in the Landscape,Florida Horticulture Fact Sheet OH-70.Environmental Horticulture Department, Universityof Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611.

National Xeriscape Council, Inc. How to Xeriscape.1986. P.O. Box 76786, Roswell, GA 30060.

National Xeriscape Council, Inc. National XeriscapeNews. 940 E. 51st St., Austin, TX 78751-2241.

Southwest Florida Water Management District. Xeriscape:Water Conservation Through Creative Landscaping.2379 Broad St., Brooksville, FL 34609-6899.

ORGANIZATIONSGeorgia Water Wise Council, 1738 County Farm Road,Suite 200, Marietta, GA 30060-4012.National Xeriscape Council, Inc., PO Box 767836,Roswell, GA 30076-7936.

SLIDE SETS/VIDEO TAPESNational Xeriscape Council. Xeriscape: Landscaping

for Today and Tomorrow. 13 min. color VHS video.$15. P.O. Box 163172, Austin, TX 78716-3172.

South Florida Water Management District. Principles ofXeriscape Irrigation. Video. $20. P.0. Box 24680,West Palm Beach, FL 33416.

South Florida Water Management District. What isXeriscape? Video. $20. P.O. Box 24680, WestPalm Beach, FL 33416.

South Florida Water Management District. XeriscapeMaintenance. Video. $20. P.0. Box 24680, WestPalm Beach, FL 33416.

Xeriscaping: Water-Efficient Landscaping. Slide set#751. Overview of Xeriscape principles for presen-tations to garden clubs, civic clubs and others inter-ested in water conservation. Script included.Available through Georgia county Extension offices.

40

Civic/Professional OrganizationsAtlanta Chamber of CommerceGeorgia Irrigation Association (G.I.A.)Greater Atlanta Home Builders AssociationHome Builders Association of GeorgiaMembers of Atlanta Chapter - G.I.A.The Garden Club of Georgia, Inc.The Landscape Design Critics Council of Georgia

Consulting EngineersBrown and CaldwellCH2M HillJordan, Jones and Goulding, Inc.Welker and Associates, Inc.

EducationalAtlanta Botanical GardenGeorgia Institute of Technology FacilitiesUniversity of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service

Electrical UtilitiesGeorgia Power CompanyOglethorpe Power Corporation

Field and Container NurseriesBold Springs NurseryClassic Groundcovers, Inc.R.A. Dudley Nurseries, Inc.McCorkle NurseriesSelect Trees, Inc.Wight Nurseries, Inc.

Garden CentersFour Seasons Garden Center of Savannah

Governmental Bodies/AgenciesU.S. Environmental Protection AgencyGeorgia Environmental Protection DivisionAtlanta Regional CommissionAthens-Clarke County Public Utilities DepartmentCity of Atlanta, Department of Water and Pollution ControlCity of AustellCity of College ParkColumbus Water WorksCity of Gainesville, Public Utilities DepartmentMarietta Water SystemCity of Powder SpringsCity of RoswellCity of SmyrnaClayton County Water AuthorityCobb County-Marietta Water AuthorityCobb County Water SystemGwinnett County Public UtilitiesPaulding County Water SystemSpalding County Water Authority

Irrigation CompaniesAble Irrigation, Inc.Century Rain AidRain Bird Sales, Inc.Sprinkalawn Atlanta, Inc.

Landscape Companies Allgood Outdoors, Inc.Lifescapes, Inc.

Real Estate DevelopersAMLI Realty CompanyArvida CompanyPost Properties, Inc.

Plant and/or Material WholesalersArthur A. Jones and Association, Inc.Shemin Nurseries, Inc.

The following firms and organizations are sponsors of this publication:

Appreciation is expressed to the Cobb-MariettaWater Authority for initiating the production of this publi-cation and to the Georgia Water Wise Council for gener-ating statewide support and interest in making it avail-able. Acknowledgement is also made to the NationalXeriscape Council, Inc., for allowing the use of its trade-marked logo and name.

Acknowledgment also goes to Southern Living,Birmingham, Ala., for providing a number of photographs

including the cover photo; to Gregg A. Coyle, associateprofessor of landscape architecture for the sketches illus-trating the landscape plans in the “Planning and Design”section; to Ms. Margaret Bryant, graduate student in land-scape architecture; and to Thad Bell and Dean Economy,former interns in the Extension landscape architecturedepartment for preparing several of the illustrations as wellas the designs. Thanks to Carol A. Nimmons, Extensioneditor, for editing, layout and printing coordination.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the statecooperating. Cooperative Extension, the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences,offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age,sex or disability.

An Equal Opportunity Employer/Affirmative Action Organization Committed to a Diverse Work Force

Bulletin 1073 Revised May, 2007

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 18 and June 30, 1914, The University of GeorgiaCollege of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.

J. Scott Angle, Dean and Director