Xeodon Designxeodonrail.com/downloads/xeodon gas-mechanical...Water Return Manifold 1 1A Headlight...
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1 Xeodon Design 119 Willow Ave. #2 Garwood, NJ 07027 http://xeodonrail.com 25-TON GAS MECHANICAL LOCOMOTIVE The idea for a detailed gas-mechanical loco came from a chance purchase of a 1930 Milwaukee Locomotive Company catalog reprint. The catalog had pictures of the motor and running gear that begged to be modeled. The availability of a low profile On30 mechanism from the Bachmann On30 trolley made that level of internal detailing possible. The kit is a freelance combination of many of the features shown in the catalog. Though not an exact model we feel it is a plausible depiction of a 20 to 25 ton locomotive from that period. The kit requires a Bachmann On30 trolley donor mechanism for power and has been designed to allow a sound decoder to be hidden inside the motor and connect to a speaker installed behind the radiator screen. Maximum speaker diameter is .90 inches and the decoder dimensions should not exceed 1.220 x .610 x .260 inches. A Lok-Sound Micro was used for the design. The cast headlight is designed to use a small LED from Miniatronics. Draw castings are set up to use E-Z Mate or McHenry type couplers with molded-in springs. If you intend to install a DCC or sound decoder it is critical that you understand the wiring and operation of these components. Due to the variety of available components we can only offer suggestions. It is up to the modeler to assure that any electronics installation meets their requirements. Test the mechanism to assure it runs smoothly before using for DCC operation. BEFORE YOU BEGIN Please read all instructions and familiarize yourself with the parts and assembly steps before starting. A Bill of Material sorted by step is provided for your reference. Refer to the instructions at that step to see a picture of the part and how it is used. Before starting assembly decide how you want your locomotive to look. This will determine how best to assemble and finish the kit. This is a complex model that requires a plan for finishing and assembly. It is generally best to paint individual parts before assembly but in some cases painting sub-assemblies is a better option. The instructions illustrate one method of assembly. Your skill as a modeler and personal preferences will dictate when and if you should deviate from the method shown. If you have questions or comments please send an e-mail to and we will do our best to help you. TOOLS AND SUPPLIES [email protected] WORKING WITH CASTINGS Some castings in this kit are VERY delicate. Use care in handling them. Please dry fit all parts before starting finishing or assembly. A number of parts will require radii and corners be squared up to fit mating parts. A square needle file or X-Acto knife can be used. Every effort is made to produce resin castings that need minimal cleanup but some removal of gates and flash is always required. Flush cut pliers are recommended to clip gates as close to the part as possible. The remainder of the gate can be removed with the appropriate jewelers files or sandpaper. Any small imperfections or bubbles can be filled with body putty. (Squadron White or automotive types will work well) After putty dries thoroughly it can be filed and sanded smooth. The resin used for the castings is durable but cuts very easily with files and sandpaper. Be careful because it is easy to remove too much material. Any warped castings can be straightened by running under warm water until the softened, then placing on a flat surface until casting cools. Work slowly and carefully. DO NOT USE VERY HOT WATER! Castings need to be washed before painting to remove mold release that may affect adhesive and paints. You may also want to wash components again just before painting to remove any body oils from handling. Use warm water and a mildly abrasive cleanser to wash parts. The use of a gap-filling cyanoacrylate adhesive is recommended for assembly. CA adhesives will bond resin very quickly. It will also bond fingers and tools to the resin so use care during assembly. If desired 5-minute epoxy can be used to join parts. It is more forgiving but parts will need to be carefully positioned and clamped during the time it takes the epoxy to cure. Areas where epoxy may be more suitable are noted in the instructions. X-Acto type hobby knife and sharp blades Magnifier - Bench or Headband type Small flush cut pliers, Needle-nose pliers Scale with at least 1/64 divisions or vernier/dial calipers Scissors, Tweezers, Various small clamps Pin Vises and Drills - #50, #55, #61, #76, 3/32” Flat smooth working surface for gluing (glass etc.) Miniature Taps - 2-56 and 00-90 (available from Hobby Shops) Machinist’s square or other method of assuring squareness Jeweler’s files (fine cut, flat, round and square) Gap-filling Cyanoacrylate adhesive, 5-Minute Epoxy Sandpaper, wet-or-dry (320, 400, 600 grit) Removable Cement (Scotch Tacky Adhesive) Body Putty, Primer, Model Paints (brush and spray) Copyright 2009 Don Kralik, All rights reserved.
Transcript of Xeodon Designxeodonrail.com/downloads/xeodon gas-mechanical...Water Return Manifold 1 1A Headlight...
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Xeodon Design119 Willow Ave. #2Garwood, NJ 07027http://xeodonrail.com
25-TON GAS MECHANICAL LOCOMOTIVE
The idea for a detailed gas-mechanical loco came from a chance purchase of a 1930 Milwaukee Locomotive Company catalog reprint. The catalog had pictures of the motor and running gear that begged to be modeled. The availability of a low profile On30 mechanism from the Bachmann On30 trolley made that level of internal detailing possible. The kit is a freelance combination of many of the features shown in the catalog. Though not an exact model we feel it is a plausible depiction of a 20 to 25 ton locomotive from that period.
The kit requires a Bachmann On30 trolley donor mechanism for power and has been designed to allow a sound decoder to be hidden inside the motor and connect to a speaker installed behind the radiator screen. Maximum speaker diameter is .90 inches and the decoder dimensions should not exceed 1.220 x .610 x .260 inches. A Lok-Sound Micro was used for the design. The cast headlight is designed to use a small LED from Miniatronics. Draw castings are set up to use E-Z Mate or McHenry type couplers with molded-in springs.
If you intend to install a DCC or sound decoder it is critical that you understand the wiring and operation of these components. Due to the variety of available components we can only offer suggestions. It is up to the modeler to assure that any electronics installation meets their requirements. Test the mechanism to assure it runs smoothly before using for DCC operation.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Please read all instructions and familiarize yourself with the parts and assembly steps before starting. A Bill of Material sorted by step is provided for your reference. Refer to the instructions at that step to see a picture of the part and how it is used. Before starting assembly decide how you want your locomotive to look. This will determine how best to assemble and finish the kit. This is a complex model that requires a plan for finishing and assembly. It is generally best to paint individual parts before assembly but in some cases painting sub-assemblies is a better option. The instructions illustrate one method of assembly. Your skill as a modeler and personal preferences will dictate when and if you should deviate from the method shown. If you have questions or comments please send an e-mail to and we will do our best to help you.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
WORKING WITH CASTINGS
Some castings in this kit are VERY delicate. Use care in handling them. Please dry fit all parts before starting finishing or assembly. A number of parts will require radii and corners be squared up to fit mating parts. A square needle file or X-Acto knife can be used. Every effort is made to produce resin castings that need minimal cleanup but some removal of gates and flash is always required. Flush cut pliers are recommended to clip gates as close to the part as possible. The remainder of the gate can be removed with the appropriate jewelers files or sandpaper. Any small imperfections or bubbles can be filled with body putty. (Squadron White or automotive types will work well) After putty dries thoroughly it can be filed and sanded smooth.
The resin used for the castings is durable but cuts very easily with files and sandpaper. Be careful because it is easy to remove too much material. Any warped castings can be straightened by running under warm water until the softened, then placing on a flat surface until casting cools. Work slowly and carefully. DO NOT USE VERY HOT WATER!
Castings need to be washed before painting to remove mold release that may affect adhesive and paints. You may also want to wash components again just before painting to remove any body oils from handling. Use warm water and a mildly abrasive cleanser to wash parts. The use of a gap-filling cyanoacrylate adhesive is recommended for assembly. CA adhesives will bond resin very quickly. It will also bond fingers and tools to the resin so use care during assembly. If desired 5-minute epoxy can be used to join parts. It is more forgiving but parts will need to be carefully positioned and clamped during the time it takes the epoxy to cure. Areas where epoxy may be more suitable are noted in the instructions.
X-Acto type hobby knife and sharp blades Magnifier - Bench or Headband type
Small flush cut pliers, Needle-nose pliers Scale with at least 1/64 divisions or vernier/dial calipers
Scissors, Tweezers, Various small clamps Pin Vises and Drills - #50, #55, #61, #76, 3/32”
Flat smooth working surface for gluing (glass etc.) Miniature Taps - 2-56 and 00-90 (available from Hobby Shops)
Machinist’s square or other method of assuring squareness Jeweler’s files (fine cut, flat, round and square)
Gap-filling Cyanoacrylate adhesive, 5-Minute Epoxy Sandpaper, wet-or-dry (320, 400, 600 grit)
Removable Cement (Scotch Tacky Adhesive) Body Putty, Primer, Model Paints (brush and spray)
Copyright 2009 Don Kralik, All rights reserved.
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ENGINE ASSEMBLY
BASIC FRAME ASSEMBLY
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BASIC FRAME ASSEMBLY
FINAL FRAME ASSEMBLY
CONTINUED
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3 FINAL FRAME ASSEMBLY CONTINUED
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3 FINAL FRAME ASSEMBLY CONTINUED
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3 FINAL FRAME ASSEMBLY CONTINUED
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4 FINAL CAB ASSEMBLY
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5 HOOD ASSEMBLY
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6 FINAL ASSEMBLY
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6 FINAL ASSEMBLY CONTINUED
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STEP PART NAME QTY. BAG STEP PART NAME QTY. BAG
1A Engine Block, Exhaust Side 1 1 4A Side Window Frame 2 4A
Engine Block, Intake Side 1 1 Sliding Window Frame 2 4A
Cylinder Head 1 1 Front Window Frame 1 4A
Belt Cover 1 1 Instrument Panel 1 4
1B Oil Filler Pipe 1 1A 4B Cab Seat, Left 1 4
Magneto 1 1A Cab Seat, Right 1 4
Water Pump 1 1A Cab Seat Brace 2 4B
1C Exhaust Manifold 1 1A Seat Lever Cluster 1 4B
Exhaust Pipe 1 1A Clutch Pedal 1 4B
Pump Manifold 1 1A Cab Curtain Roll 1 4
1D Intake Manifold 1 1A
Carburetor-Air Filter 1 1A 5A Headlight Body 1 4B
Water Return Manifold 1 1A Headlight Cap 1 4B
Sand Box 1 4
2A Side Frame, Left 1 2 Sand Box Outlets 2 4C
Side Frame, Right 1 2 Sand Box Cap 1 4C
Journal and Spring 4 2A Gas Tank 1 4
Journal Plate 4 2A Gas Tank Cap 1 4C
2B End Beam 2 2 Exhaust Whistle 1 4C
2C End Beam Planks 2 2 Horn 1 4C
Draw Casting 2 2A Bell 1 4C
Bell Frame 1 4C
3A Cab Roof 1 2 Stack 1 4
Cab Front 1 2
Cab Side, Left 1 2 6A Hood Center Post 2 4C
Cab Side, Right 1 2 6D Hood Side Panel, Short 2 4
Cab Floor 1 2 Hood Side Panel, Long 2 4
3B Angle Skirt 1 3
Fan Shroud 1 3
Hood 1 3 Brass Rod, .020 x 4” L 4 2
3C Rear Cab Support 1 3 Brass Rod, .062 x 1-1/2”L 1 2B
3G Radiator 1 3 Styrene Tube, 1/8 x 1/16 x 1”L 1 2B
3I Transmission Body 1 3 Screw, 2-56 Hex Head 2 2B
Transmission Cover 1 3 Screw 00-90 Hex Head 4 2B
3K Shift Cluster Base 1 3A Screw, 00-90 Flat Head 1 2B
Shift Cluster Support 2 3A
Shift Levers 1 3A Window Glass - Acetate Sheet 1 Box
Shift Cluster Top 1 3A
Brake Lever 1 3A
Radiator Screen 1 3A
Radiator Cap 1 3A
BILL OF MATERIAL
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REFERENCE PHOTOS
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