INNOVATIONS IN JUNIORS

KEY TRENDS ACROSS ALL CATEGORIES

MEN’S ON THE MOVE Shows converge at Mandalay Bay

Straight off the farm, denim-on-denim,

slouchy layers and heavy-duty outerwear

work in the concrete jungle, too, for fall at

WWDMAGIC and MAGIC International.

WWDMAGICA SUPPLEMENT TO WWD

AGRARIAN SOCIETY

ON HER: Coat from Latte by Coffeeshop, Wow Couture’s sweater and Mine’s dress. Carolina Amato

scarf; ck socks; boots from Bed:Stü. ON HIM: Woolrich’s jacket, Dickies’ shirt,

Redsand’s T-shirt and Levi’s jeans. Trafalgar belt; boots from Red Wing Shoes.

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www.desigual.com

Las Vegas Convention Center

Booth 73708

www.desigual.com

Las Vegas Convention Center

Booth 73708

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MAGIC’s show family is spreading out around town. By Rachel Brown

shaking things up

LAS VEGAS TRADE SHOWS ARE ON the move.

This season, MAGIC is raising the curtain on its two-campus layout for the Feb. 16 to 18 program. The men’s wear venue, setting up shop in The Mandalay Bay Convention Center, comprises MAGIC Menswear, Project, Premium, Street and S.L.A.T.E., a venue dedicated to an edited mix of street, surf and skate brands. An expanded WWD MAGIC will constitute the women’s wear arena at the central hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center, which also will house the Pool Trade Show, Sourcing at MAGIC and the premiere of the footwear expo FN Platform.

“What people are going to see in February is the culmination of plans we have been working on for years,” said Chris DeMoulin, MAGIC International president and executive vice president of MAGIC owner Advanstar. “The buyers have been asking us to make the shows more convenient.…They are encouraged about bringing all the men’s shows next to Project. They can focus on spending their time with brands rather than in cab lines.”

The response to the changes has been positive so far, according to DeMoulin. In its survey research, he noted MAGIC has found that 90 percent of buyers intended to visit exhibitors at both The Mandalay Bay and LVCC. And MAGIC expects that buyer traffic will climb overall during the three-day series of shows. More than 2,000 brands have signed on, including Current Elliott, AG Adriano Goldschmied, Vince, Adrienne Vittadini, Stuart Weitzman, Nine West, DKNY, Trina Turk, Ella Moss, Stüssy, Obey, 10 Deep, Famous Stars & Straps and Perry Ellis.

“It is really giving all the buyers [access] to the fashions, the trends and brands across the entire fashion landscape,” said DeMoulin of the updated layout. “We are looking forward to what we believe will be one of the most successful shows we have ever had.”

MAGIC has paid attention to the look and feel of its men’s and women’s exhibitions. It hired architectural firm Cleanroom Inc. to help each men’s

wear show maintain its individual aesthetic identity. WWDMAGIC’s floor has been divided into three areas: Loft for youth-oriented brands such as Junk Food, Levi’s, Trinity and XOXO; Studio, with an eclectic mix of lines that includes Free People, Mac & Jac, Desigual and Hobo International, and Plaza, an open square to allow mingling with brands such as Karen Kane, 172 Grams, Fabrizio Gianni and Silk Culture.

“In the North Hall, there were booths in every single inch of space. We wanted to give a little bit more room to breathe,” said DeMoulin of the WWD MAGIC design improvements. “We will have more brands than we have ever had, but there is going to be a little more space and a little more focus on the fashion aspect of the industry in the space.”

The debut FN Platform, a joint venture between MAGIC and WWD sister publication Footwear News, will include more than 500 brands in women’s, men’s, kids’, athletic and comfort categories. (For more on FN Platform, see adjacent story.)

DeMoulin predicts FN Platform will spur a “huge increase” in footwear-only buyer registration. He added, however, that ready-to-wear buyers are also enthusiastic about attending FN Platform and, in market surveys conducted by MAGIC, about 70 percent of rtw buyers indicated they wanted to see an enlarged footwear presence at the shows. For buyers across the spectrum, DeMoulin said FN Platform would be a showcase “to really see the dynamics of what is going on in footwear in the context of

the ready-to-wear business.” Regardless of location or fashion category,

trade show participants and organizers embark to Las Vegas with confidence that retailers will be in a buying mood. “Everybody was looking at last year in terms of trying to find out what the new [consumption] level was,” observed DeMoulin. “The feedback that we hear from vendors and buyers is that they have found that footing a little bit, and everybody is coming into this show [positively], to see which brands, trends and partners they will choose to grow their business going forward.”

KICKING INTO HIGH GEARA NEW FOOTWEAR SHOW IS stepping out in Las Vegas this month.

FN Platform — a joint venture between MAGIC and Footwear News — will include more than 500 brands spanning roughly 60,000 square feet of exhibition space at the Las Vegas Convention Center.

The dedicated footwear show, running concurrently with the MAGIC marketplace Feb. 16 to 18, will be divided into five distinctly themed sections to service different categories of the shoe market.

“Each of the areas of the show has its own neighborhood and is anchored by its own lounge,” said MAGIC president Chris DeMoulin.

The Cosmo women’s section will include brands such as Aquatalia by Marvin K., Stuart Weitzman, Steve Madden and Ralph Lauren. Camp features fashion athletic and lifestyle merchandise like Sperry Top-Sider, Auri, Palladium and G.H. Bass & Co. Bond showcases men’s dress brands such as Donald J Pliner, Mezlan, Bacco Bucci and Cole Haan. Comfort brands in the Zen area will include Easy Spirit, Naturalizer and Aetrex. Finally, InPlay features juniors’ and kids’ labels like Stride Rite, Poetic License, Lelli Kelly and XOXO.

An additional 200 shoe brands will be exhibited elsewhere in the MAGIC family of shows, but DeMoulin said eventually they would likely move into FN Platform.

Several events also are scheduled during the show. On opening night, FN Platform will team with YP for 210, a networking group of young footwear professionals organized by the Two Ten Footwear Foundation, the industry’s main footwear charity, to host a fund-raiser bowling party at the Orleans Bowling Center at The Orleans hotel. FN Platform will also honor a number of brands celebrating milestone anniversaries, including Sperry Top-Sider’s 75th, and 20 years each for Steve Madden and Donald J Pliner.

— Wayne Niemi

Stuart Weitzman will show at FN Platform.

Magic’s two campuses are at the Mandalay Bay (top) and Las Vegas Convention Center (above).

For the show calendar, see WWD.com.

COVER PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO. MODELS: ELLIZABETH WHITE/NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT AND BOBBY/FORD; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR KATE RYAN INC. USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC;

FASHION ASSISTANT: BRITTANY ROBINSON; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS (WOMEN’S) AND LUIS CAMPUZANO (MEN’S)

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THE CONTEMPORARY SCENE, LONG A haven for cool T-shirts and jeans, is growing up.

Chalk it up to the seriousness of these sinister economic times, or just to the increasing sophistication of runway trends that trickle down to the category, but many makers of contemporary and young contemporary clothing are tipping their hat to the more polished girl — even if she isn’t completely ready to abandon her alter-ego rock chick quite yet.

Lilla P., New York, is best known for its Pima cotton tops with novelty details, but for this edition of WWDMAGIC, it is adding sophisticated draping, tucking and pleating in the fall designs.

“For me, the sophistication and the seriousness of the pleating and draping, really, are a result of people taking everything a little bit more seriously now and looking at things in the way customers are living and dressing,” said Pauline Nakios, owner and creative director at Lilla P.

Color, she added, will be key in underscoring the new mood. “Coming off a difficult economic period, people are willing to inject a little color into their wardrobe,” Nakios said. “This season, it’s a very modern color palette. It’s fall but, particularly in our category, there are a lot of sun colors, and a lot of fuchsias, teals and celadon.”

Heather Thomson, creator and founder of New York-based Yummie Tummie, said today’s customer wants “style, trend-right fashion, and quality,” but “she still wants it at a great price.”

At Yummie Tummie, key trend inspirations include Glam Rock with an undertone of Eighties and today’s pop culture — “Be it ‘Mad Men,’ Lady Gaga or ‘Avatar’-inspired,” Thomson said. “At Yummie Tummie, our focus is always on the architecture of the garment. The Eighties design inspiration resulted in a collection of soft, superstretch fabrics, refined detailing, strong shoulders, sophisticated construction and

asymmetric prospects for fall.”Thomson noted that runways

and subsequent cyclical fashions continue to dictate

trends at her label.“Our broad

appeal and broad demographic do not

allow us to focus on only one target, one defined customer,” she said. “As much as the Eighties inspiration is

clearly evident in our collection, we honor the history of the Eighties

but we refined the look with an elegant glamour and a more wearable approach.”

She said that in Yummie Tummie’s fall collection, “you will find softer interpretations of color, luxurious fabrics, cleaner finishing and refined detailing. More sophistication and less shock value.”

Jennifer Ashley, owner, founder, designer and creator of Hippie Ink by Jennifer Ashley, said graphics will play a key role for fall. She also finds much inspiration in the music scene, particularly in rock ’n’ roll, though she has also been incorporating more Asian influences.

“My shirts started off with peace signs and love [themes], and five years on, it’s still in that vein, but I do a lot of interesting graphics,” the Los Angeles-based designer said. “It’s all original artwork. It’s still faces, Asia-inspired designs, animal prints and Mod. Everyone is wearing big oversize shirts with leggings.”

For inspiration, she cited several impulses, but increasingly, Ashley said social awareness plays a key role for designers, and for their customers. This show, Ashley will offer a shirt printed with the phrase “Love Is the Answer.” A portion of sales is designated to Millennium Promise, a nonprofit organization that hopes to halve the extreme poverty in Africa by 2015, and worldwide poverty by 2025. It works with communities to implement programs in those regions, and builds Millennium Villages across sub-Saharan Africa.

“People are more conscious of helping one another,” Ashley said. “That’s the direction our country is going, and people in fashion have the ability to help, too.”

At Spanish label Desigual, “happy” is a key theme with a collection that draws from “well-being, color, joy and sincerity,” according to a company statement. Details will include handmade concepts, like denim patches. The looks are inspired by a search for well-being and positive energy — suitable at a time when customers are looking to spend more time with family and friends.

Charlotte Tarantola, founder and designer of the namesake line and the Laquette label, said she will continue to focus on novelty knitwear, with an emphasis on prints, embellishments and, for fall, horizontal stripes.“My print business is totally out of control,”

Los Angeles-based Tarantola said. “For fall, for example, I’ll still have print cardigans, and will be showing floral prints, some modern takes on animal prints, and a lot of looks accentuated with ruffles. For me, [customers] are looking for cheerful, surprising, out-of-the-ordinary product and things that are really signature,” she said.

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Sleek looks bolster the contemporary market. By Marc Karimzadeh

modern polish

Jack by BB Dakota’s polyester, viscose and elastane jacket; BCBGeneration’s polyester top, and Blue Tassel’s embroidered cotton skirt. Hunter boots.

CC Couture’s wool and elastane coat, Chaudry’s cotton top and David Kahn Jeanswear’s cotton and polyester denim jeans. Girlprops earrings.

Nic + Zoe’s cotton, silk and Modal sweater.

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WWDMAGIC 7

BRIGHT OUTLOOK FOR SWIMTHINGS ARE HOLDING STEADY ON THE SWIMWEAR FRONT FOR spring. Much like last season, swim vendors expect retailers’ eyes to be on color and cost for the coming market.

“Color is the first thing people look toward,” said David Burnett, vice president of merchandising for In Gear. “Fluorescents look right on. They look happy and there’s a lot of energy with them.” This is particularly true in the active swim category, which Burnett sees as a prime market for bright tones. “It’s a new approach to active, which we haven’t seen in a long time,” he said.

Within that vibrant spectrum, several firms cited tie-dye as a key look. “All of the tie-dye and the ombré prints that are really color driven still seem to be carrying the same weight,” said Natalie Wierzba, national sales manager and merchandiser at Beach Rays, a division of Southern California swimwear manufacturer J.Y. Rays. “Better specialty stores are looking for product that’s well merchandised, so they literally see visual that makes an impact.” That includes embellishments such as hardware, crystals and beading.

“Swimwear has become a fashion statement,” said Rosie Kendall, designer and an owner of

Las Vegas-based Unleashed Swimwear, which is launching at WWDMAGIC. “In Vegas, I see a lot of trends. It’s really important to look hot and sexy, and bring your personality out. Retailers want something that will draw attention to their customers.”

According to Burnett, such decorative effects “give a sense of perceived value,” or bang for the buck, which helps justify price. In Gear’s stable of labels retails from $10 for junior sets to $29.99, $49.99 and $79.99 tiers before hitting the highest mark, $122, for the Plunge line. “Everything is price-driven,” he added. “They’re value-oriented with embellishments and we’re seeing the payoff. People are buying for looks first, but at an enticing price.”

In terms of silhouette, while bikinis still reign supreme for most labels, monokinis and one-pieces are edging in. “One-pieces are incredibly important across [all of our lines],” said Wierzba.

Meanwhile, Kendall was sure to include a range of monokinis and cutout styles in her debut collection. “They’re sexy and really flirty,” she said.

As for the bikini market, Burnett said In Gear’s sales indicate Seventies-style bandeau “sun-worshipper” silhouettes will continue to be hot.

— Jessica Iredale

WHILE THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS been buzzing about value for the past few seasons, a new mantra is echoing across juniors companies exhibiting at WWDMAGIC: Innovation.

As businesses stabilize after trimming costs and managing inventory tightly in the direst fiscal crisis since the Great Depression, designers and manufacturers are strategizing how to entice fickle teenage girls to return to stores and shop. Some companies are playing it safe by tweaking past bestsellers, while others are forging ahead to push extreme styling as seen on the runways and streets of Europe and Asia.

“It’s not good to be as good,” said Deke Jamieson, executive vice president of marketing and licensing at Los Angeles-based YMI Jeanswear. “You need to come up with new products and concepts — anything that entices retailers to take a look at your brand.”

That means an expanded array of outerwear — triple the number of styles from last year — for YMI. Among the cover-ups are puffer jackets, lined hoodies, faux leather jackets and plaid wool coats, all retailing from $49 to $115. The company also plans to capitalize on the trend for denim leggings with a crinkled version at $38 retail. “We suggest to consumers that they tie it up and throw it in the washing machine and dry it that way,” Jamieson said. “When they put it on, it feels like second skin.”

Los Angeles’ Z Cavaricci is also promoting denim leggings made of blue and black 8.5-ounce denim with 40 percent stretch. Having taken a six-month hiatus from shipping, the brand is in the midst of a revamp with better-priced denim. Wholesale prices now run from $18 to $28, compared with its previous price range of $12 to $16. The styles veer

toward ultratrendy, such as motorcycle-style jeans and a skinny leg in an ombré wash that is drenched in a vibrant color before fading to white.

“The key to this whole thing is getting quality product at a low price,” said Martin Barrack, Z Cavaricci’s sales director. “The fabric, the denim, everything is equivalent to, say, a premium Guess item but the prices are half as much.”

At XOXO, the juniors brand owned by Kellwood, lightweight fabric that feels like nothing on the skin is key to the spring collection — for more immediate deliveries — it will present. Voile, gauze and the color white will emerge as key trends for the line, which wholesales from $17 to $27.Rompers and skirts will be the new silhouettes.

XOXO isn’t the only exhibitor highlighting spring and summer looks at the February trade show, which traditionally focuses on fall. Madison Brands Inc., New York, said since retailers are buying closer to the season, it’s showing pieces that will ship between March and June. It’s also bringing casual looks, like tunics to wear with leggings, chambray, ditsy prints and big floral patterns.

“In the past, we did button-down shirts that fit at the waist, that you can wear to work with black pants,” said Chasen Mintz, account executive at Madison Brands. “Seventy percent of the line will be casual. It’s what’s been retailing for us.”

New Breed Girl is also chasing the casual-loving teen with the launch of hoodies, ranging from heavy-duty basics to fashion fleece. It’s also introducing backpacks, totes, wallets and beanies. “We are continuing with street trends that influence our demographic,” said Patrick Wood,

vice president at the Los Angeles-based maker.In light of the still-weakened economy, Salt &

Pepper Clothing in Vernon, Calif., is continuing silhouettes that have done well in the past but sprucing them up with new fabrics and prints. For instance, it’s updating the kimono top with allover prints in an abstract floral or in solid colors accented with embroidery.

“We want to be safe but not too safe, because we don’t want our customers to think we’re boring,” said Warren Hong, sales representative at Salt & Pepper, where the average wholesale price is $15. “It’s a fine line we’re walking.”

See-through styles are also big for Wow Couture, a Los Angeles-based firm that counts Arden B., Forever 21 and Charlotte Russe among its retail accounts. Instead of lace, it’s knitting cardigans out of rayon. Black and white are the colors for its summer palette of items at $10 to $18 wholesale. Mike Guimm, general manager for Wow, said, “We’re adding variety with lightweight yarn so people can wear them all year.”

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Junior firms try creative tactics. By Khanh T.L. Tran

inventive ideas

Nylon and spandex bikini from Trina Turk at Apparel Ventures.

YMI’s polyester and cotton vest and cotton, polyester and spandex jeans with cotton T-shirt from Rockware at Freeze Clothing. AV Max sequin bracelet; Bed:Stü boots.

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ACCESSORIES DELIVERCOMING OFF A BETTER-THAN-EXPECTED holiday after a long period of bone-dry consumer spending, accessories vendors are upping their game with differentiated product and price, aiming to prod customers to open their wallets once again.

“The consumer is looking for more value and for more novelty, more artisanal detailing, more embroidery, beading. There’s no interest in classic. This trend started over a year ago,” said Carolina Amato, designer and president of Carolina Amato, a New York-based company specializing in cold weather accessories.

Amato is bringing summer and cold weather accessories to the show, including gloves, hats and scarves in polkadot and leopard intarsia patterns in gray, brown or

black with orange or turquoise contrasting patterns. The designer, whose accessories sell in boutiques and better department stores, is also bringing men’s and women’s leather gloves with detailing like buckles.

Business has been good for Amato, whose price points are in the better to upper-better range. “The volume of product that retailers were able to sell has dropped off, but the cold weather really helped a lot,” she said.

Alexia Crawford, president of her namesake firm and a 10-year veteran of WWDMAGIC, is focusing on hair accessories, scarves, handbags and jewelry, all retailing for between $3 and $38. “We’re more fashion-oriented, so our stuff seems to be bigger,” she said, noting her best performers are stretch cocktail rings with large glass stones, as well as long,

layered industrial chains and leather and suede bracelets. Her accessories are tied to jewelry in some way, and usually have some embellishments — even the scarves.

“Scarves are not as good as last year, so we have added more novelty-driven scarves,” with details like lace, she said.

Patti McKillop, chief executive officer of Potluck Paris, a Seattle-based company that imports jewelry from mostly French designers, also stressed the importance of unique product.

McKillop said she will bring new styles of bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings, all made of mixed metal with an “antique finish, yet a modern look.” They retail between $30 and $300.

“I think the biggest focus from this season is all the types of chains,” she said, adding

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WITH THE RECESSION STILL INHIBITING SOME SHOPPERS FROM spending, sportswear makers are trying to encourage them to loosen up their purse strings by offering a greater assortment of interchangeable items.

Today’s thrifty shoppers might be more inclined to buy something new that can update pieces they already own. Domestically made products are also offer-ing another reason to buy, as some consumers have become more conscientious about supporting local businesses.

Len Shemin, owner of Nomadic Traders, a Berkeley, Calif.-based company, said more stores are placing orders for the company’s domestically made NTCO sportswear label. Aside from meriting a Made in the USA label, the col-lection has allowed Shemin to develop more lasting relationships with factories in the Bay Area. “We feel particularly good about that, and it helps to be closer to the production source,” he said.

In addition to its Nomadic Traders label, which consists of sweaters and sportswear, the firm is branching out with Apropos, an updated sportswear line that will bow this fall. Sweaters, soft dressing, coats, jackets and multicolored wraps are part of the mix. Many of the firm’s 900 store accounts had requested another label to build on its success while introducing something new, he said. Apropos will wholesale from $22 for a top to $82 for a coat. It should account for 40 percent of the overall fall business and will be sold in about 350 stores, he added.

Neve Designs, a Boulder, Colo.-based company, is extending its ski sweater assortment with coordinated separates that will launch in the fall. Dresses, pants and tops will be among the offerings. The aim is to sell more head-to-toe outfits, said design director Carol Gantos.

There is also a Prima Belle group made of a silk, merino wool and Lycra spandex blend that should help boost fall sales, she added. Those crewneck and zip-front tops, leggings and other separates have ski-inspired graphics and coordinate with the brand’s ski sweaters.

Neve has made a concerted effort to improve fit for its athletically inclined customers. The company also just hired a European sales rep who will initially focus on opening accounts in Italy, Germany, France and the U.K. Another recent initiative was the overhaul of its catalogue to make the photography and marketing more sophisticated, Gantos said.

Lynn Girard, who owns a signature showroom in Los Angles, said she has seen retailers’ interest in Fabrizio Gianni sportswear accelerate in recent months. A five-pocket jean in cotton twill, which is available in 25 colors includ-ing neons and other bright hues, is particularly popular, she said. Matching tops and scarves are also in demand, especially in Dallas and Los Angeles. West

Coast stores “are starting to feel like business is coming around,” but the rebound is a little slower in the South, according to Girard. “Jeg-

gings” — jean-type leggings — should be “a huge trend for fall,” she said. Stores like the fact that Fabrizio Gianni has American factories, which al-

lows them to reorder in a timely fashion. “They know they can buy a little and get back into it easily,” Girard said. “We make everything in L.A. so we don’t have to deal with holidays in other countries or having things get held up in Customs.”

Girard started selling Puli, a Canadian label of blouses and jackets, in the U.S. about 18 months ago. She said it has also become more popular in recent months. Several better specialty stores have picked up the collection because the prices are appealing and the design looks more expensive. Blouses whole-sale from $35 to $55 and jackets are in the $45 to $75 range.

Sportswear houses are playing the versatility card. By Rosemary Feitelberg

mix and match

Clockwise from left: Old Gringo’s leather boots; Berek’s leather jacket, Silk Culture’s beaded silk tank top and Not Your Daughter’s Jeans’ cotton and spandex denim jeans; JSong’s wool and viscose coat, Barbara Lesser’s cotton T-shirt and Silk Culture’s silk skirt with a J. Jansen necklace.

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WWDMAGIC 9

that another big trend is rings with a metal elastic band.

In fact, her strongest seller is the elastic ring, most of which are adorned with rhinestones and Crystallized-Swarovski Elements crystals. The rings, which are available in a variety of shapes, such as a flower shape, retail from $65 to $100.

Differentiation is also a theme in handbags, according to Adrienne Vittadini Handbags design director Elena Humphreys.

While the styles in handbags are “all over the map,” Humphreys said the one trend that has emerged is “ladylike and embellished”

bags at attainable prices.“Adrienne Vittadini is doing a luxury

collection for an affordable price,” she said, explaining that the bags

feature jewelry-like hardware.Through “smarter design” and

“great sourcing,” the New York-based company is able to offer the bags in the $200-to-$400 price range, Humphreys said, adding that the bags look like they cost $700 but they will sell for $300.

“With the economy still soft, people are buying investment

pieces,” she observed. “I’m sure low-end apparel is doing better than low-end accessories. I think people would rather have 20 cheap sweaters than 20 cheap handbags.”

Designer Michelle Cravens, owner of Michelle Monroe Studios, a Yorba Linda, Calif.-based luxury handbag firm, concurred with Humphreys.

“If people are going to spend money, it’s going to be on jewelry or handbags versus apparel,” she said. The bags, which are higher-end, retailing from $300 to $670 and often “on the same shelves as Gucci and Prada,” have been featured in magazines for their unique look, mixing feathers, leather and detailing like studs and gold hardware.

Cravens will bring six to seven of her signature feather bags to the show. “I have seen a feather trend but not much on bags,” she said. “I did a few pieces last year and got a lot of encouraging feedback.”

— Alexandra Steigrad

VENDORS EXHIBITING IN WWDMAGIC’S premium segment, a recent addition to the show, are entering with the knowledge that they’ll need to attract retailers with a balance of proven sales winners and unique products.

While the worst of the recession might have passed, vendors realize that retailers are still waiting for their customers to return in force. As a result, it’s likely that those retailers will opt to chase business rather than burdening themselves with excess inventory. That said, the mood has greatly improved and retail buyers aren’t necessarily looking to play it safe when it comes to style.

Rick Guido, owner and designer of Noblita, launched his business four years ago with what he dubs “nondenim jeans.”

“It looks like denim, but it feels like french terry, which is a knit,” said Guido. The Los Angeles-based label sells to Fred Segal, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, among others, with price points ranging from $100 to $120. Noblita has also expanded into tops and motorcycle jackets to match its nondenim jeans looks.

Guido said he’s added a lot of extra detail work to the collection ahead of the show, including studs, patches and hand-painting work.

“We’re adding things like studding on the waistband, belt loops and pocket treatments,” said Guido. “We’re adding 200 to 300 studs around the waistband. We’re also adding patches — we believe patches are going to be very hot.”

Guido said he’s seen the business environment improve even from the beginning of the year. Retailers, he said, now have a clear picture of where their businesses stand and the direction in which they are going to head. They also want to bring in goods within four to six weeks.

“They’re looking [for] much closer [deliveries],” he said. “I think they’re looking for anything new and different. I think they have enough jeans lines.”

Jared Langleben, owner and designer of New York-based Jared Lang, which specializes in men’s and women’s woven shirts, said his collection will focus on prints. Like Guido,

Langleben has also added more details to the line, including double buttons and stitching on collars and cuffs.

“Detail work is strong and for next season, we believe prints is the up-and-coming trend,” said Langleben.

Langleben says retailers are still reluctant to buy new lines unless they have a unique perspective.

“They’ll only buy what sells — unless there’s something eye-catching,” he said. “The new guys are going to have to be really strong and powerful and have something unique in the industry.”

Marguerite Moye, designer for Erge Designs and new brand Eyelid, said retailers aren’t limiting themselves to one or two trends, so Erge is playing with several. Moye has seen a return of oversize Eighties looks combined with the return of leggings. “We’re trying to do a bit of both,” she said, adding that she’d even used small shoulder pads in a few items. The line will also incorporate tie-dye effects. Moye said she’s working with a lot of burnouts this season.

“We try and put a little bit of everything out there,” she said. “From us, people love color. They don’t want to see drab.”

Like Moye, Alex Vedder, brand manager for juniors label Closet Romantic, sees an opportunity for mixing trends.

“We’re seeing a lot of grunge coming through,” said Vedder. Closet Romantic launched in July and is one of the new

labels aiming to appeal to retailers with an edgy look at a good price.

“We’re focusing on bringing in that grunge trend but mixing with a little more girly,” she said. “Our line is feminine-meets-edgy.”

Vedder believes retailers will be looking for looks that are easy to wear and comfortable. “A lot of our burnout stuff has done great, as well as our looser styles,” she said.

She also feels the pressure from retailers to offer more for the money.

“Like they have been doing for the last year or so, retailers are looking for lines that stick out and are at a great price point,” said Vedder. “They want more value for the money they’re spending.”

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Makers hope unique details will entice retailers. By Ross Tucker

novel approach

Wool and rayon hat from Peter Grimm Headwear.

Knitmania UK’s Modal jersey dress. Stuart Weitzman shoe boots.

Knitmania UK’s Modal jersey dress. Stuart Weitzman shoe boots.

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A PARED-DOWN, LESS-EMBELLISHED DESIGN AESTHETIC and value pricing are the watchwords in the premium market for fall, as vendors strike a cautious stance in the face of an unpredictable retail climate.

“Consumers have gotten pickier, purchases are less frequent and fashion has become less disposable,” said Michael Silver, president of Winnipeg, Canada-based Silver Jeans.

Despite the down economy, Silver Jeans enjoyed a 20 percent increase in men’s sales last year on the strength of its value pricing. The brand’s jeans mostly retail for between $80 and $105 and sell best in the Midwest, at retailers such as The Buckle, Von Maur, Dillard’s and Nordstrom. “I think we found ourself at a very effective price point,” said Silver. “We’ve found a lot of new customers that were looking for a great value, and we have the right jean at the right price.”

In denim, slim legs and stretch fabrics continue to grow in popularity among men, even in the heartland, added Silver. The company will introduce its first collection of women’s tops at the show, with men’s tops to come next season.

Also sporting accessible price tags is new denim and sportswear brand Tokyo Five, which was launched last year by New York-based Brand Resource. The collection features a classic Americana workwear aesthetic mixed with Japanese-inspired graphics and type treatments. “We use a lot of thick, chunky zippers, heavy cast-iron buttons and hand-sewn bar tacks,” said Charles Jebara, president of Brand Resource. “It’s a masculine brand. We’re steering away from the overembellished look — the last thing we need is another guy in a thick-stitched jean.”

Tokyo Five jeans retail from $89 to $110, panel-printed jersey T-shirts from $40 to $60 and track jackets from $68 to $88. “We’ve seen tremendous downward pressure on prices and this brand is aspirational without being overpriced,” said Jebara.

Outerwear maker Triple Fat Goose is adding denim and wovens to its assortments this year in an effort to create a year-round business. “We’re going for a clean look with nice details,” said James Chung, an owner of New Jersey-based Turbo Holdings, which owns the Triple Fat Goose and First Down brands. Preppy-tinged patches and appliqués adorn the line’s polos, wovens and cardigans. Jeans retail from $60 to $80, and tops from $60 to $90.

Buyers may be in for a shock at Ed Hardy, as the brand long known for its aggressive, gaudy aesthetic is cleaning up its designs this year. The company is pushing a core basics line that features solid Ts with a simple chest embroidery

that retails for $40, hoodies from $70 to $80 and lounge bottoms from $50 to $60.“We want to cater to a larger demographic,” said Caleb Westbay, vice

president of sales at Ed Hardy. “This is a much cleaner commodity product, with lower prices than our fashion collection — but it still retains the excitement and personality of the brand. It’s everyday casualwear.”

Ed Hardy will also introduce a new line under the True Vintage sublabel, which is inspired by motorcycle culture. “It has a grungier-type feel, with slub cottons, mineral washes and stitching details,” said Westbay.

The centerpiece of the Ed Hardy installation at MAGIC — which including licensees covers about 100,000 square feet — will be a fully loaded Ed Hardy retail store, including windows and cash wraps. “We plan on expanding our retail network very aggressively in 2010 and we want to showcase our entire lifestyle story,” said Westbay. The company operates 23 full-price stores in the U.S., as well as a handful of outlets. Worldwide there are 73 Ed Hardy stores.

The Ed Hardy brand is owned 50/50 by Iconix Brand Group Inc. and Ed Hardy, the pioneering tattoo artist whose work is the basis for the brand. Culver City, Calif.-based Nervous Tattoo Inc., which is owned by Christian Audigier, is the master licensee for Ed Hardy and produces the sportswear and headwear lines, which are a $165 million business at wholesale. The company also sublicenses the brand in about 70 other categories, ranging from fragrance and candles to beverages and car floor mats. In total, the Ed Hardy brand rings up about $600 million at retail.

Another major footprint at MAGIC will be the Defiance USA booth, which will show its English Laundry, Fender, Da Vinci and John Lennon collections. The company will introduce new licensed product in shoes, eyewear, underwear and home categories.

Value pricing is a key component of all the company’s brands, and over the past 18 months those prices have decreased 33 percent. “We are trying to offer as competitive a price point as possible. Those reductions have all come out of our own margins, but we’ve made up for it with greater volume,” said Christopher Wicks, chief executive officer and creative director of Defiance USA, noting the company posted a 30 percent sales increase in 2009.

“I think people who survived this very chaotic financial arena are thinking more nimbly. It’s a stripped-down environment, and people aren’t paying ridiculous amounts of money for things anymore,” added Wicks. “This shakeout has left the players who know how to dance.”

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High-end and contemporary brands focus on cleaner designs and lower prices for fall. By David Lipke

spare parts

Triple Fat Goose. Right: Tokyo

Five.

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WWDMAGIC 11

MEN’S SPORTSWEAR WILL BE DECIDEDLY CONSERVATIVE IN tone for fall, as slimmer silhouettes in shades of gray, a brown color palette and subdued plaids permeate the market.

This return to basics is expected to connect with consumers who are embracing classics as the next big trend.

Tim Bess, men’s fashion-trend analyst at The Doneger Group, is predicting a “great season.”

“I’ve been walking the [men’s shows at market week] and the buzz has been about how they’ve all been good shows,” Bess said. “There’s a lot of optimism out there, with everyone very upbeat about the business.”

In terms of trends, “plaid is still big this season,” according to Bess. “While young men’s will see more of the explosive plaid designs, men’s will be more mid-scale. You’ll also see more colorblocking, such as a sweater with the upper body a solid gray and the rest of the body in blue.”

He expects a “season of gray — all shades of gray.” He noted gray denim bottoms did well last season, and that continues to be the color palette of choice. New neutrals being introduced include brown, featuring shades such as sienna and camel that are also worked into a variety of patterns, such as “brown plaid wool coats.” Shades of blue and red are also showing up as subdued accent colors in plaids.

Also big this year is the outdoor category, with patterns reminiscent of Western wear found in Woolrich and Pendleton, said Bess. He noted the ubiquitous denim jacket is being updated to offer a slimmer fit, and denim shirts will be available in a variety of shades ranging from dark indigo to a lighter bleached-out tone.

According to Stephen Hooper, vice president of design for DKNY Men’s sportswear, “We were inspired by the effortless mix of sport and active with updated men’s wear patterns — sporty nylon and waxed cotton in sleek urban silhouettes mixed with more traditional men’s wear patterns and prints. That dichotomy represents the classic DKNY DNA.”

Hooper said the color palette for fall starts with grays and blues, and moves toward rich burgundy, olive and brown shades as the season progresses.

He said DKNY Men’s has focused much attention on wear-now fabrics for fall, such as resin-coated cottons and nylons in outerwear; cotton and cotton-cashmere-blend sweaters; mercerized cotton, pima cottons and slub jerseys for the base fabrics in knits, and shirting patterns in checks, plaids and stripes in high-count cotton.

Another key feature in the offerings for fall centers on versatility, such as button-out or zip-out liners in hybrid blazers and outerwear. “These can be worn in early fall to holiday, making them great two-for-one pieces at a price point of under $200 retail,” Hooper said.

Nautica is also placing emphasis on wear-now pieces, according to Chris Cox, creative director. “For fall, we are focused on ‘buy now, wear now’ in both sportswear and jeanswear offerings. It is still critical and important now to have these types of items for our consumers. No one is buying and holding

anymore. The season starts with rich autumnal colors in tactile fabrics, and newness in all classifications. A breath of new plaids, and iconic graphic applications are important parts of the mix. Deeper into the season the palette evolves into saturated jewel tones based off of black and charcoal. The revival of the shirt jacket, slim-fit jeans and nautical military details are key elements of the season.”

At Christopher Lena Shirt Co., Leonard Kang, vice president for operations, said the “basic shirt is conservative, with a slimmer cut.” He said color is fairly basic, although “one can have a wild color and still be conservative depending on trimming and how it is worn.”

Following the conservatism in trends, “Fabrics tend to be more Brooks Brothers, but with toned-down trimming, [such as] slightly smaller

collars,” Kang said.He’s noticed people are less willing to take risks with fashion

given the economic backdrop, resulting in conservative trends, as consumers want the items they purchase to last several seasons.

Ron Rheingold, president of the men’s sportswear division at Weatherproof, said consumers are looking for value and will buy if they perceive value in the offerings.

In addition to the core classic Weatherproof brand, the firm also offers Vintage by Weatherproof, a more fashion-forward line. “You’ll see different patterns in the fabrications and more vintage looks

in sportswear.” He said a key item this fall will be the puffer vest featuring matted ciré on the outside. It’s

the American version of the European-style puffer jacket showcasing a shinier fabric.

He noted Vintage by Weatherproof also offers corded polar fleece as its fashion item, allowing the company to obtain a slightly higher price. “It has a corded texture and it costs a few dollars more, but the [fabric is] different from our competitors,” Rheingold said.

Lori Medici, vice president of marketing at Perry Ellis International, noted a variety of brands under the Perry Ellis umbrella will be

showcased at MAGIC.The namesake Perry Ellis line will showcase

“color statements, coat-front knits, peak lapels and double-breasted sport coats, microstripe wovens

and wrinkle-free shirts. We concentrate on expanding our ‘fits’ to cover both the city and classic looks combining mainstream and aspirational styles. Focus will be on crafting assortments down to the door level specified by region and climate,” she explained.

The company will also be launching Pierre Cardin sportswear with casual bottoms, denim, outerwear, leisure and warm-up suits, knits and sweaters. According to Medici, the line will feature Cardin’s iconoclastic “use of design and color such as geometric shapes and patterns” that fuses French savoir faire and metropolitan style to resonate with a cross-generational consumer.

Perry Ellis’ Hispanic brands — Cubavera, the Havanera Co. and Centro — continue to evolve as the landscape of America becomes more diverse, Medici said. An example of an essential timeless look is the “guayabera,” the four-pocket pleated tropical shirt within the Latin culture and which serves as the foundation and inspiration for the firm’s Hispanic lifestyle brands.

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Gray and plaid dominate the fashion trends for fall, with a hint of brown to come. By Vicki M. Young

conservative party

Christopher Lena shirts.

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Manufacturers turn their eyes to the past for inspiration. By Brenner Thomas

american heritage NuaNce aNd NostalgiaTailored cloThing vendors at Magic are hoping to jump-start suit sales by swapping basics for detail-rich sport coats and patterned suits with a distinctly old-school feel.

“This is about newness and innovation at a price,” said larry drew, vice president of sales for the Trybus group, which will be showing its cesarani and steve harvey lines at the show.

The Texas-based resource will highlight jackets with lots of talking points: leather under collars, hybrid sport coats with zip-out bibs, faux-suede buttonholes. “if you don’t make it visually stimulating, it won’t sell,” drew said, adding that vested suit separates and double-breasted models will lead the silhouettes in his suit presentation.

The other major current in tailored clothing are modern twists of traditional haberdashery classics such as tweed, flannel, Prince of Wales, subtle plaids and fancies cut in slimmer silhouettes for a younger guy who is discovering dressing up.

“everybody has their black suit by now. People want something new,” said ed gurdak, executive vice president of Marcraft apparel, which is showing the trend in both its Tommy Bahama and Jones new York licenses. “everything nostalgic is strong again. it’s a look that appears modern, but is not a loud fashion statement. it’s accessible.”

— B.T.

When MAGIC tAkes over MAndAlAy Bay Convention Center on Feb. 16, tandy Brands will unveil a booth designed around the company’s recently revamped logo and branding campaign.

But as far as the leather goods and belt markets go, that’s likely all that will be new at MAGIC. vendors this season are otherwise looking to the past, where vintage and heritage styles will dominate in the fall.

“two years ago, this market was much more driven by trend,” said laura drnek, vice president of merchandising at randa Accessories. “now it’s all about brand authenticity.”

For many, that means focusing on vintage-inspired product. levi’s, which randa produces under license, is showing belts in burnished leather with lots of highs and lows and smoked, antiqued hardware. “these belts look like your grandfather wore them 20 years ago,” drnek explained. “Black is still important but brown is really trending here.”

dickies is also looking to its roots, with a belt and wallet line that evokes the company’s workwear heritage. “It’s cleaner with polished finishes like antique nickel that reflects the literal nuts and bolts that a lot of dickies consumers use in their jobs,” said Wava Junior, senior merchandiser at randa Accessories, where she oversees the dickies license.

heritage is also a watchword at Wrangler, as well as dockers, which is showing a range of less dressy belts that feature milled and burnished leathers with unfinished edges and larger widths.

tandy is also relaunching one of its proprietary small leather goods brands, rolfs, which will revolve around a concept of heritage and craftsmanship.

“We upgraded the leather, linings and created new packaging for the line,” said hilda Mcduff, chief merchandising officer for tandy Brands.

these vintage designs shadow a growing trend in sportswear toward classic American looks, but also reflect retailer demand for styles that are tested and familiar. the exception appears to be the young men’s market, where belts and small leather goods continue to be driven by fashion. tandy Brand’s surplus line is showing innovative screen prints on its belts. Marc ecko Cut & sew, a randa license, is moving toward jean-friendly but playful styles with exaggerated hardware, like studding and mixed metals, used on worn leathers with raw edges.

the price-value equation, that buzz phrase of 2009, will continue to drive business in the fall

as well. “the value component has obviously never been more critical,”

said rick luft, president of swank Inc. his company is highlighting value by increasing descriptive language on packaging for the

company’s small leather goods and belts, which it makes under license

for the likes of kenneth Cole, tumi and Guess, among others. For instance, it’s promoting slim wallets with tags that call out the product’s comfort.

durability and comfort are also mandates at tandy, according to Mcduff. “you have to offer more for the price right now,” she said, adding that the company is also scouring its suppliers for better deals. “We’ve committed ourselves to leveraging our sourcing. the competitive landscape demands it.”

In such a market, it’s no surprise that reversible belts — always a hit in the men’s market — have been trending across the market.

A Marc Ecko belt.

0202MAGa012(13)a;11.indd 1 1/25/10 4:43:24 PM

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THE CHILDREN’S SECTOR HASN’T BEEN HIT AS HARD OVERALL AS HAS the rest of the apparel world, but trade-show business has suffered with foot traffic way down, as buyers continue to cut buying and travel budgets.

As such, with economic pressures high and inventories still tight, exhibitors of children’s apparel have tempered their sales expectations.

Sea & Sun LLC holds licenses for Marvel Comics, True Religion and Ed Hardy swim and beach apparel for kids and adults and is exploring fabrics that change color when exposed to UV light or temperature changes, UV-resistant garments for kids with sensitive skin and 3-D swim goggles to differentiate its lines.

“We used to project our sales and make a lot of everything. Now we do it the other way around, we see what the interest is first,” said Fawn Arthur, creative director for Sea & Sun. “People want more than just the clothing, they want more bang for their buck, so you have to be innovative. I think buyers are looking for things, especially in swim, that can be double-use and are street-ready.”

“The kids apparel sector is a little less subject to pullback because parents will cut out their kids last,” said Eric Beder, a retail analyst for Brean Murray, Carret & Co. “But, as is true across the entire apparel world, there is an overall reduction in volume, higher-priced lines are faring worse, and there’s a lot of flight to value.”

American Apparel Inc.’s new children’s line will be shown with the rest of the company’s wares. Founder Dov Charney said the youth line is a projected growth area for the company in 2010, despite the fact that American Apparel doesn’t sell to many outside retailers, relying on its own stores and private label accounts, like one with Levi’s, to sell clothing.

“We’ve had a lot of velocity in our adult styles so making those for kids wasn’t a hard decision,” Charney said. “If Daddy likes the shirt, then he’ll buy it for the little ones, because it’s cute in their size.”

The show is drawing some new children’s wear resources, like Bot Tots, a brightly colored organic cotton line of onesies, hoodies and T-shirts featuring printed drawings of robots. It’s geared primarily toward infants and toddlers, wholesaling from $5 to $12 with retail between $20 and $30.

“I definitely thought twice before going into WWDMAGIC because of the relatively higher cost, but for my first show I wanted to invest in something I knew was big and worthwhile,” said Erin Saelans, who launched Bot Tots in October. “As a new business, just getting leads and writing an order would be success enough for me. I think I’m in an appealing spot as far as pricing. And obviously, my bigger goal is to make enough money to cover the costs of going to the show.”

Jeph Hemmer, who co-founded Santa Cruz-based Avatar Imports in 1991 and has been exhibiting kids’ wear at WWDMAGIC for nearly 15 years, said buyers are pensive and waiting until later to write orders.

“It’s a smaller part of our business than it used to be,” Hemmer said. “The [sales] numbers outside are getting bigger and there are just far fewer people at the shows, which, combined with buyers being more conservative, drives that decrease in share of sales.”

Hemmer said Avatar actually saw better volume last show than the previous one, an increase he attributed to the company’s low- to midrange price points.

“People are trading down from higher price to mid- and lower price but still looking for quality, and that’s where we’ve picked up market share,” Hemmer said. “For us, the show is still a good return on our investment. Hopefully, the good times will come back. Those days were fun.”

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Innovations and value pace children’s wear. By Anne Riley-Katz

youth movement

Marvel swim trunks by Sea & Sun.

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FIVE YEARS AGO, AN ANONYMOUS THIEF MADE OFF WITH ELI Reich’s messenger bag. Instead of buying new, Reich crafted a new pack out of necessity and used bike tubes.

“I thought it would be funny and ironic to make a messenger bag out of inner tubes,” the owner of Seattle-based Alchemy Goods said of his company’s earliest days.

In the intervening years, Reich’s operations have grown to a staff of eight and dovetailed with a developing public interest in eco-friendly goods. Now in its third year, MAGIC’s Ecollection focuses on exhibitors crafting apparel and accessories out of such sustainable materials and with socially conscious philosophies. Alchemy, for example, will show for the second year. Taking Reich’s early ingenuity to a mass scale, the company harvests bike inner tubes for its bags from a nationwide network of bike shops and cyclists. Reused car seat belts also figure into Alchemy’s production. Its newest addition is a line of handbags and totes made of vinyl repurposed from old billboards.

“Just because it’s recycled doesn’t mean it has to look recycled,” Reich said.

Other Ecollection vendors echoed Reich’s sentiment. While it can be tough to spot trends in a category where sourcing materials range from organic cotton to the pull tabs from aluminum soda cans, Ecollection exhibitors almost all agreed vendors in the category are starting to put more emphasis on fashion. A few years ago, eco-apparel might have attracted an audience on novelty alone, but that consumer is now demanding more from such brands.

Arlene Nilsson, an owner of new exhibitor Hemptress, said eco lines have tended to lean more toward the misses’ end of the spectrum, but are starting to have more of a fashion edge. Based in Los Angeles, Nilsson crafts her handbags largely from hemp, which she calls “the strongest fiber on the planet.” She’s started using finished bonded leather, made from recycled scraps, for trim. The company uses a hemp/RPET lining for bags in its vegan collection. RPET, made from recycled plastic, is biodegradable.

“I just love it; it wears so much more like real leather,” she said of the recycled product, which she compared with other faux leather materials. “If you make a bag out of PVC, it’s still there in 10,000 years. That’s the kind of sustainability we don’t want.”

Nilsson uses recycled nylon zippers inside her bags. She said the closures don’t tend to break or get caught as easily as metal, which can add to a product’s sustainability in the long run.

“The eco movement probably doesn’t think fashion is a good thing, because they think it’s one season and it’s gone, but there is such a thing as

sustainable fashion,” Nilsson said.Elizabeth Searle, designer for Earth Co.

b. organic, said the basics maker launched several years ago in largely earth and neutral tones, but that demand has changed.

“Our customers were asking us, ‘What about some bright colors?,’” Searle said. “The customer is looking for fashion. Our colors for spring are really bright.”

She said the company is meeting demand by using low-impact dyes for colors such as cornflower blue, coral, sea blue and butter yellow. The company, which sources cotton for its goods from locally owned organic farms in Africa, also uses wooden beads and water-based screen prints for embellishments.

Dallas-based Walleska Ecochicc creates its lines out of materials like recycled aluminum and glass. Owner Walleska Tepping said she’s also been responding to customer demand for color and design.

“The product can be recycled and at the same time look fancy or chic,” Tepping said. “It doesn’t have to look rough.”

She used her bags and tops crafted from soda can pull tabs as an example.

“They’re show pieces,” she said. “You put [one] on and people are going to notice you.”

Tepping’s designs are realized through a fair trade arrangement with a community in her native Brazil. In fact, many Ecollection exhibitors said they adhere to fair trade practices.

Chicago-based Mata Traders Ltd.’s products are manufactured at co-ops in India using materials like recycled denim and saris. Co-owner Michelle King said the women who work in the co-ops are afforded paid sick and maternity leave and have a “huge” chance for upward mobility.

“We make sure that the people are being treated fairly,” King said, but added that the company’s fashions typically attract customers before its principles.

“It sells well on its own,” she said. “Our products are really well made. [They’re] not mass produced. It’s a different production model.”

Fashion finds eco-friendly lines. By Matthew Lynch

green scene

Earth Co. b.organic’s organic cotton pullover and organic cotton and spandex jersey pants at Z-Ply Corporation. Converse Jack Purcell sneakers.

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by Tricia Kesten

Reading glasses

& accessoRies

800.435.5747

www.icueyewear.com

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COVERYOURRACK

WITH SILVER JEANS TOPS THIS FALLINTRODUCING SILVER JEANS TOPSA new collection of knit and woven tops for women launching for Fall 2010

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Premium at Magic booth # PR 22353

USA CORPORATE SHOWROOM 212-354-1603

VP NATIONAL ACCOUNTS, USA 201-321-2259

NORTH EAST / MID ATLANTIC 212-354-1603

MID WEST 773-645-8980 / SOUTH WEST 214-634-9083

PACIFIC NORTH WEST 213-439-0900

CANADA 416-598-2545

AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND 61-3-9636320

GERMANY, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND, SCANDINAVIA +49 7763 7021

UK 440-207-428-5800 / JAPAN 81-35-774-2172