Motifs on

Tamilnadu Sarees

MANGO

If the maanga –malai (mango necklace) is a treasured piece of

jewellry among Tamilian women ,the mango motif is a favorite of

the weavers.

Kalasam

Complete with mango leaves and coconut, the kalasam is central to many a Tamil religious ritual. Replicated in different metals,

adorning puja shelves and showcases, the kalasam finds a place in a silk saree too.

Temple

The most celebrated motif of them all. Immersed as he in the city of

thousand temples, the kancheepuram weaver can‟t help but flaunt

his heritage-the temple gopuram or gateway.

Rudraksham

Beads of the Indian rosary, used to keep the count of the „japam‟ or

continuous chanting of God‟s name. In the weaver‟s hands, beads

of gold.

Diamond

The diamond motif is inspired from the diamond earrings of the

Tamilian bride. The weaver weaves the diamond motif every now

and then.

Neli

The neli motif is inspired from the neli or toe ring that is slipped in by

the husband of the bride when he places her feet on the grinding

stone during the wedding.

Kodi visiri

A creeper, a grapevine…yet another of nature‟s patterns that the

weaver draws from.

Parrot

Not only is kili pachchai (parrot green),a recurring color Tamil Nadu

sarees, it is a recurring motif too.

Chalangai

The dancer‟s most priced piece of jewellery, the chalangai (heavy

anklet) and its sound is inspiration for many a story and song.

Represented by the weaver with three bells.

Peacock

In Tamil Nadu ,the peacock is given pride of place in a temple

courtyard. And endlessly reproduced in hand woven sarees.

Silk sarees of

tamilnadu

Kancheepuram- the

silk capital

Mango fruit(paisley),

Rudraksha(Indian Rosary), Swan,

Peacock, Temple tower,

Peacock's eye.

Motifs

Kalasam Kodi visiri

Rudraksham Neli

The endless brightness of parrot green,

shimmer of golden yellow, depths of

coffee brown, red-orange of a lion,

blue green mayilkazbuthu(peacock‟s

neck), violet-green of a new born

mango leaf.

Colours

Elaborated end pieces

woven separately and

then woven skilfully with

the main body without

any signs of joints… the

wonder of „pitni work‟.

Pallus

Borders

„Korvai‟ meaning solid or contrast borders.

With a series of delicately woven motifs in

zari. The three bells denoting the chalangai

or anklet could well be followed by the

chequered pattern of the peacock‟s eye, the arm jewelvanki, bunches of grapes,

creepers and mangoes…all in one saree.

Also the „meena work‟ or colored thread

between the zari.

thirubhuvanam

This hand woven saree

from Thirubhuvanam is

called‟ Vanasingaram‟

or forest beauty-for it has

a whole range of wild

animals with gold- gilted

silver zari, in a two- way

jacquard weave.

Arni

Lightweight, geometrical

motifs in the border,

simple pallus…and the

shimmer of gold here and

there. Arni sarees are for

those women, those

occasions, when silk must

be mellow,

subdued…soothing.

Salem

Double side

„korvai‟-with or

without zari; one

side border sarees

with zari: plains,

stripes and checks

in the body without

zari…Salem silks are

the lighter ,simpler,

softer side of

Tamilnadu silk

sarees.

Kornad sarees

The Konrad sarees are also known as the temple sarees

and are the famous sarees of

Tamil Nadu, having the

distinctive temple motifs at the

border. They are simple yet

gives a very classy and ethnic

look that go well with any

occasion. The common form of

the end-piece of kornad saree

is found in a wide band which is

usually of zari with weft-wise

triangular points woven in the interlocked -weft technique.

Cotton sarees of

tamilnadu

coimbatore

In textile count and

texture, superfine

softness defines a

Coimbatore saree.

Distinctiveness

comes from the art-

silk decorated

figures-

animals,leaves,fruits

or plain geometry.

negamam

Medium and fine count yarn with occasional art silk or twisted

cotton for extra design touches. A Negamam saree can be

identified by mangoes, flowers, diamonds ;while the collection

embraces plains, stripes and checks.

madurai

Madurai sarees is a type of a cotton saree

which is known to have an impressive

lightweight fabric. This type of sari is best used

during summer seasons because it is made

from an airy type of fabric. One of the most

popular Madurai sarees is the so called

“Sungari”. It is an elegant sari with black

colored prints, stripes, checks, floral motifs and

usually it is being printed in cotton fabrics. It

features a single colour or a combination of

two colours to emphasize the beauty Sungari

Madurai sarees.

bibliography

• SIX YARDS, Hand woven Sarees from Tamilnadu