Wordsworth, Christopher. 'Athens and Attica· Journal of a residence there'. J.Murray. 1837

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Wordsworth, Christopher. 'Athens and Attica· Journal of a residence there'. J.Murray. 1837

Transcript of Wordsworth, Christopher. 'Athens and Attica· Journal of a residence there'. J.Murray. 1837

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  • A T H E N S A N D A T T I C A :

    J O U R N A L

    O F

    A R E S I D E N C E T H E R E .

    B Y T H E

    REV. C H R I S T O P H E R W O R D S W O R T H , M . A .

    FELLOW OF T R I N I T Y COLLEGE, A N D L A T E P U B L I C ORATOR I N T H E

    UNIVERSITY OF C A M B R I D G E , CORRESPONDENT OF T H E

    ARCH/EOLOGICAL INSTITUTE A T R O M E , AND H E A D

    MASTER OF H A R R O W SCHOOL.

    S E C O N D E D I T I O N .

    J O H N M U R R A Y , A L B E M A R L E S T R E E T ,

    L O N D O N .

    M.DCCC.XXXVII,

  • C A M B R I D G E : PRINTED AT THE PITT PRESS.

    JOHN W. PARKER, UNIVERSITY PRINTER.

  • TO THE

    C H E V A L I E R C H A R L E S B U N S E N ,

    MINISTER OF

    HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF PRUSSIA

    WITH FEELINGS

    OF ADMIRATION AND GRATITUDE

    T H I S V O L U M E I S I N S C R I B E D .

  • A D V E R T I S E M E N T

    T O T H E S E C O N D E D I T I O N .

    SOME errors, existing in the former Edition, have

    been corrected in the present. Some additions have

    also been made; among these is a Second Letter

    from C . H. Bracebridge, Esq. which will be found

    in the Appendix. A full Table of Contents has also

    been prefixed to this edition.

    The present Volume has been carefully corrected,

    revised, and carried through the press by the Author's

    Brother, The Rev. John Wordsworth, Fellow of Trinity

    College, Cambridge.

    H A R R O W , July 5 , 1 8 3 7 .

  • P R E F A C E .

    THE following pages are part of a Journal of

    > a tour made by the Author, during the years 1 8 3 2

    and 1 8 3 3 , in several of the provinces of Greece.

    He has not thought fit to publish his entire

    narrative at once, for reasons which it is here un-

    necessary to state. He now publishes a part of it,

    relative to that particular district of Greece, which

    he supposes to be regarded generally with more inter-

    est than any other. The present volume commences

    a little before his entrance into ATTICA, and terminates

    soon after he has quitted it.

    A word of explanation is requisite here, why

    he has been induced to adopt the system of or-

    thography employed in this volume for representing

    modern Greek names of places, which are often

  • VI PREFACE.

    intimately connected with the ancient language; while

    a different method of representation has been sanc-

    tioned by the authority, and recommended by the

    practice, of the ablest among the living topographers

    of Greece. The following were the Author's reasons

    for so doing:

    He was addressing himself to the eyes of English

    readers, in some degree familiar with the ancient

    literature of Greece, and not to the ears either of

    modern Greeks themselves, or of those who are ac-

    quainted with their mode of pronunciation. He has

    therefore represented those words not according to the

    sound which they bear in the mouth of a modern Greek,

    but according to their strict grammatical orthography.

    The etymology of a Greek name may often present

    interesting materials for topographical speculation.

    The name itself may frequently suggest a train of

    agreeable recollections. But if it be disguised in

    writing, as it is in speaking, its genuine form will not

    be recognised by the generality of readers. All the

    previous associations with which, in their minds, it

    may be connected, and all the consequences which

    they might have derived from it, will thus, he fears,

    be utterly lost. In writing these words, therefore,

    he has endeavoured to suggest to the reader not

    their modern sound, but their ancient sense.

  • PREFACE. vii

    At the desire of the Publisher, he has annexed a

    translation to the classical quotations in the text.

    His best thanks are due to Col. Leake, Capt.

    Beaufort, R .N . Hydrographer to the Admiralty,

    W . R. Hamilton, Esq., C. R. Cockerell, Esq., R.A.,

    C. H. Bracebridge, Esq., for the assistance they have

    severally rendered toward the publication of this

    Work.

    HAHROW, May 1 4 , 1 8 3 6 .

  • D I R E C T I O N S F O R P L A C I N G T H E P L A T E S .

    A T H E N S from the A C A D E M Y , to face the Ti t l e .

    M a p of A T T I C A , to face p . I

    T h e P N Y X from the A R E O P A G U S 64

    M a p of A T H E N S , to face C H A P , VII 5 1

    T h e A C R O P O L I S from the P N Y X I l l

  • C O N T E N T S .

    C H A P . I .

    C H A L C I S T O O R O P O .

    FAGS

    H E S I O D and the E u r i p u s . . . . . . l B r i d g e over the E u r i p u s - - - - - 2 N e g r o p o n t , derivation of. Conjecture on Hieroc les - - 2 Objects and results of the br idge - - - - 3 A u l i s and V l i k . . . . . . . . 4 A n c i e n t c i ty d e s c r i b e d A u l i s ? . . . . . 5 D r a m i s , D e l i u m . B a t t l e o f . . . . . . 8 D e l i u m . Socrates. Conjecture on Plutarch - - - 11 Arr iva l at Oropd - - - - - - 1 1

    C H A P . I I .

    O K O P O T O T A N A G R A . Asopus. Sycamino.

    Tanagra , route to . . .name and si te of T a n a g r a ; r e m a i n s ; aspect 12 -16 Theatre . Corinna. Conjecture o n - - - - - 17 Observat ion of Pausan ias . T e m p l e s - - - - 18 M o u n t Cithaeron. Eur ip ides - - - - - 18 Inscription . - . . . . . 1 9

    C H A P . I I I .

    O R O P U S .

    Present state of this district - - - - 21 A n c i e n t site of Oropus , not at Oropd, but on (he Sea - - 24 Conjecture on Dicaearchus - - - - 2ft

  • X CONTENTS.

    C H A P . I V .

    A P H I D N A E .

    FAGK

    B a r t h e l e m y ' s V o y a g e h i s description of the route from A t h e n s to Oropus . - . . . - . - 2 6

    Conjecture on P h i l e m o n ' s L e x i c o n and on Dicaearchus. Aphidnae found' - - - - - - 27

    H e l e n . Tyrtasus. H a r m o d i u s and Ar i s toge i ton , Ca l l imachus - 29 M o u n t Parnes . V i e w . Present aspect - - - 30 A n c i e n t Mi l i tary T o w e r - - - - - - 31

    C H A P . V .

    (xltAMMATICd. R H A M N U S

    N i g h t in A l b a n i a n Cottage -R h a m n u s , s ite of T w o T e m p l e s . . . . T h e larger, dedicated to N e m e s i s Inscr ipt ion there -T h e smal ler , a l so dedicated to N e m e s i s Thrones there -Conjecture on the two T e m p l e s Scenery of R h a m n u s . . . A n t i p h o the R h a m n u s i a n -N a m e s , ancient and modern, of R h a m n u s

    C H A P . V I .

    M A R A T H O N .

    Descr ipt ion of P l a i n . M o u n d . M a r s h e s P ic ture of, in Poscile . . . Bat t l e of Marathon. T i m e of year, and of day Macaria . Heracle ida; . . . Marathonian Tetrapo l i s . . . Loca l arrangement of A t t i c D e m i Present state of this district

    C H A P . V I I .

    A T H E N S .

    Present state of A t h e n s -

    Comparison between that and the present state of R o m e Books on the topography of A t h e n s

    - 32 -5 - 35 - 35 - 36 - 37 - 39 - 39 - 40 -1 - 4 1 - 2 - 4 2 - 43

    - 44 - 46 - 46 - 47 - 48 - 49

    - 49 -50

    51 52 53

  • CONTENTS. XI

    C H A P . V I I I .

    A T H E N S . Mount Lyeabellus.

    M o u n t St George . V i e w of A t h e n s . Out l ine , and l imi t s of the City . . . . . . . . 5 5 - 6

    M o u n t S t George i s the ancient L y c a b e t t u s - - 5 7 Proofs from P l a t o , Ar is tophanes (conjecture on) M a r i n u s - 5 8 - 6 0 T h e A n c h e s m u s (of Pausanias ) an intermediate n a m e for the same

    h i l l - - - - - - 6 0 Socrates on the soil of L y c a b e t t u s . opoi - - 6 0

    C H A P . I X .

    A T H E N S .

    Climate and Soil o f A t h e n s - - - - - 6 2 Architectural results from, in private d w e l l i n g s , pavements , seats ,

    cisterns, &c. - - - - - - - 6 3 A n d in Public Edificesthe P n y x - - - - 6 4

    C H A P . X .

    A T H E N S . The Pnyx, or Parliament of Athens.

    Site , aspect, form, size and n a m e of T H E P N Y X - - 6 5 B e m a . . . . . . . . . 6 6 Inf luence exerted upon A t h e n i a n e loquence , by the loca l pecul iari t ies

    of the P n y x - - - - - - 6 6 Influence of i ts Natura l E l e m e n t s - - - - - 6 7 O f its v i s ib le objects , natural , historical , pol i t ical and artificial - 6 8 I l lustrat ions from D e m o s t h e n e s and i E s c h i n e s - - - 6 9 Considerations from the Size of the P n y x - - - 7 0 Il lustrat ions of Ar i s tophanes , from local i ty , &c. of the P n y x - 7 1 T w o B e m a s . Conjecture on - - - - - 7 2 - 4

    C H A P . X I .

    A T H E N S . The Areopagus.

    A r e o p a g u s , present view of - - - - - - 7 5 Steps , tr ibunal , &c . - - - - - - 7 0 St P a u l preaching here . - . - - . . 7 7 Loca l sugges t ions from objects around h im - - - 7 7 Congruity of h is sermon with the place where it was preached - 7 7

  • x i i CONTENTS. TACK

    Conjecture on Strabo - - - - - - - 7 6 Conjecture on Arrian . - - . - - . 7 8 A n a l o g y of A m a z o n s and Persians - - 78 B o t h encamped on the A r e o p a g u s - - - - - - 79 j E s c h y l u s - - - - - - - - 79 Consecration of the A r e o p a g u s by the T e m p l e of the E u m e n i d e s - 7 9 I t s s ite - - - - - - - - - 80 Descr ibed by / E s c h y l u s - - - - - - - 8 1 / E s c h y l u s defends the A r e o p a g u s by this identif ication of i t with

    the worship of the E u m e n i d e s . T h i s identif ication prescribed by the locality o f both - - - - - - 81

    C H A P . X I I .

    A T H E N S . Consecrated Grottoes.

    Grottoes in the rock of the Ac r opo l i s . Grotto of P a n - - 82 N e a r the Clepsydra. Conjecture on Schol ias t of Ar i s tophanes - 88 Present state of Clepsydra. W a l l e d in b y O d y s s e u s - - 84 Inscr ipt ion. D e a t h of Odysseus - - - - - - 86 Grotto o f A g l a u r o s . S i t e o f E u r i p i d e s ' I o n - - 8 7 Histor ica l inc idents connected w i th th is Grotto - - - 88 Subterranean ascent from i t into the E r e c t h e u m - - 89

    C H A P . X I I I .

    A T H E N S . Theatre.

    Site and present state of Theatre - - - - - 90 Grotto. M o n u m e n t of T h r a s y l l u s . Choragic C o l u m n s 91 Choragic Inscript ions - - - - - 9 2 Size of the Theatre - - - - - - - 9 3 P l a t o . Diceearchus - - - - - - 94 Conjecture on Dicrearchus - - - - - 95 P o s i t i o n of, and v i e w from, the T he a tr e - - - 95 Inf luence of these on the A t h e n i a n drama - - - - 95 O n ^Eschylus , Sophoc le s , Eur ip ides - - - - 96 O n Ar i s tophanes - - - - - - - 98 Pecul iar local advantages of A t h e n i a n dramatists - - 99 P la to on the local inf luence of A t h e n i a n p u b l i c b u i l d i n g s - 100

    C H A P . X I V .

    A T H E N S . Acropolis.

    Acropol i s . Its character 102 Conjecture on Dictcarchus . . . . - 102

  • CONTENTS. Xiii

    C H A P . X V .

    ATHENS. Acropolis. Propylma. Parthenon.

    Propyliea, procession through its central g a t e ; present state of - 112 Erect ion of Propylaea - - - - - - - 113 A n c i e n t admiration o f b y A t h e n i a n s and strangers - - 114 Supposed restoration and open ing of the Propylaaa - - 115 The Parthenon restored - - - - - - 1 1 6 Eastern and W e s t e r n ped iments . Subjects of Groups there - - 117 Impress ion o f ancient S h i e l d s suspended on Eastern f a c a d e : con-

    sequent i l lustration of Eur ip ides . Erectheus and the Bacchffi - 118 N a m e and d iv i s ions of the Parthenon - 120 A p p l i c a t i o n of a pas sage in Eur ip ides ' I o n - 122 Conjecture on Plutarch - - - - - 121 V i e w from the Parthenon - 122 Dicrearchus . . . . . . . . 123

    C H A P . X V I .

    A T H E N S . Acropolis.

    T h e three Minervas of the Acropo l i s -Statue of M i n e r v a P r o m a c h u s ; bronze and colossal Eur ip ides Here . Fur. A l a r i c - - - - - -Statue and T e m p l e of M i n e r v a Parthenos . Chryse lephant ine Statue and T e m p l e of Minerva P o l i a s ; i ts a n t i q u i t y ; dressed in

    the P e p l o s ; Ar i s tophanes . Orestes a suppl iant h e r e ; . /Eschylus ' E u m e n i d e s . . . . . .

    I l lustration of the three Minervas from Aris tophanes ' E q u i t e s Schol iast on Aris t ides - - - - - -

    124 125 125 126

    127 128 130

    Size of A c r o p o l i s ; p o s i t i o n ; f o r m ; descriptions of - - 103 A s c e n t from Theatre to A c r o p o l i s . . . . 104 T e m p l e of V e n u s and P e i t h o - - - - - 105 Loca l i l lustration of Eur ip ides ' H i p p o l y t u s . T h e s e u s . Phdra .

    H i p p o l y t u s - - - - - - 105 Conjecture on P l i n y - - - - - - 105 D e a t h of YEgeus. Accuracy of Catu l lus - - - 107 T e m p l e o f Wingless V i c t o r y . M e a n i n g o f ; s i te o f - - 108 Loca l i l lustration of Ar i s tophanes ; Lys i s trata . . . 109 Statues of H a r m o d i u s and Ar i s toge i ton . . . - 109 Pecu l iar except ion in favour o f 110 Recent discovery of the T e m p l e of Victory - - - 111

  • xiv CONTENTS.

    C H A P . X V I I .

    ATHENS. Acropolis. Erectheum.

    Erec theum, its two divis ions - - - - 132 T h e Eastern, the T e m p l e of Pol ias ; the W e s t e r n , that of Pandrosus.

    Cecropium in the Portico of Caryatides . . . 133 Archi tectural Inscription - - - - - 133 Present state - - - - - - - - 1 3 4 Four objects , (1 ) the " A n c i e n t S t a t u e " in the T e m p l e of P o l i a s .

    ( 2 ) T h e Sal t - spr ing . (3 ) T h e Tr ident . (4 ) T h e Sacred O l i v e , in that of Pandrosus - - - - - - 134

    I l lustrat ion o f Eur ip ides ' Erec theus - 135 Character, re l ig ious , moral and pol i t ica l of the E r e c t h e u m - 13G Uses, nat ional and poet ica l of the Sacred O l i v e contained there - 136 M o r i a n O l i v e s - - - - - - - - 137 Sophoc les ' ( E d i p u s at Colonus - - - - 138 Inscriptions in the Acropo l i s - 140

    1 . Poet i ca l honorary tribute - 140 2 . D i d a s c a l i e Inscr ipt ion of Ctes ippus , son of Chabrias ; conse-

    quent inference o n the result of D e m o s t h e n e s ' Oration against L e p t i n e s - - - - - - - 142

    3. Palimpsest Inscr ipt ion , for a Statue o f P r a x i t e l e s - - 142 Alienation o f honorary Statues at A t h e n s . Ins tances - 142

    4. Tr ibute to an A t h e n i a n Canephoros - - - 143 5. Consecration of a Chape l . Imprecat ions on its violators - 146

    C H A P . X V I I I .

    ATHENS. Temple of Theseus.

    T h e s e u m at A t h e n s compared wi th St M a r k ' s at Ven ice Hercu le s associated with T h e s e u s -T e m p l e o f T h e s e u s and Hercu le s F u r e n s Po l i t i ca l express ion of th is union Descr ipt ion of the T h e s e u m -

    - 147 - 148 - 149

    - 149

    - 150

    C H A P . X I X .

    ATHENS.

    Tower of the Winds. Choragic Monument of Lysicrales. Street of Tripods. Temple of Jupiter Olympics.

    Tower of Winds. Objec t , s i te , description of - - 151 Conjecture on Schol iast of Ar i s tophanes . . . 152 W a t e r c locks , &c. - - - - - - - 1 5 4

  • CONTENTS. XV

    Monument of Lysicrutes. Street of Tr ipods . . . 154 Objec t of Didascalia; . D i d a s c a l i e Inscript ions . . . 155 Tempie of Jupiter Olympim, when commenced and finished ; s ty le ;

    description of - - - - - 158

    C H A P . X X .

    A T H E N S . Stadium.

    Site of S tad ium ; form ; d imens ions of R a c e , description of -I l lustrat ion of P lato D a t e of S tad ium T h e S t a d i u m , the dramatic T i m e - p i e c e at A t h e n s ; w h y

    tions of Eur ip ides -A n c i e n t Inscription -

    C H A P . X X I .

    A T H E N S . Illissus. Callirrhoe. Cephisus.

    Callirrhoe and Cratinus - - - - - 101 S i te and appearance of Call irhoe - - - - - 102 I l i s sus u n s u n g by Athenian poets . W h y ? Cephisus w h y pre-

    ferred? - - - - - - 1 0 2 General remark on the topographical fast idiousness of A t t i c poets 102 J u s t i c e done to the I l i s sus by strangers. Socrates at the I l i s sus - lfi3 Fronto invites Marcus A u r e l i u s to this spot - 104 Conjecture on Fronto's letter - - - - - - 165

    C H A P . X X I I .

    A T H E N S . Plan of the City.

    General Sketch of A t h e n s - - - - - 107 Acropo l i s . A r e o p a g u s . P n y x . - - - - - 167 B u i l d i n g s po l i t i ca l ly and loca l ly connected wi th the P n y x - 167 A g o r a . Senate-house . Metro i im. T h o l u s . A l t a r of T w e l v e Gods .

    O b j e c t o f - - - - - - 169 T h e E p o n y m i . T e m p l e of Mars - - - - - 17 Statues of H a r m o d i u s and Ar i s toge i ton . . . 170 T w o paral le l StoaeBasi le ios and Eleuther ios . . . 170 I l lustrat ion of Ar i s tophanes - 170 P o m p e i u m . D i p y l u m near the P o m p e i u m - - - - 171 Pausan ias b e g i n s h i s description of A t h e n s from D i p y l u m - 171 A n c i e n t l y , one Cerameicus only . . . . 173

    - 157 - 158 - 158 - 159

    . I l lustra-

    - 160

    - 101

  • CONTENTS. PAUK

    Subsequent ly the o ld A g o r a m e r g e d in the new and inner Cera-m e i c u s 174

    L i m i t s o f o ld A g o r a - - - - - 175 D e m o s t h e n e s i l lustrated - - - - - - 177 Inner Colonus . M e l i t e . Ccele - - - - 177 Col ly tus . D i o m e i a - - - - - - - 178 L y c e u m . M i l t o n - - - - - - 179 Poscile in the O l d A g o r a - - - 179 D e m a d e s and p lan of At l i ens . . . - 181

    C H A P . X X I I I .

    R o u t e of Panathena ic procession traced P e p l o s ; s a i l : car -Stratt is , conjecture on Santa R o s a l i a and Minerva H i p p i a s and H i p p a r c h u s Course of procession -Eur ip ides i l lustrated E n d of procession ; car, pep los S i t e o f P y t h i u m

    C H A P . X X I V .

    The Long Walls of Athens.

    Three L o n g W a l l s ; at end of Pe loponnes ian W a r - - 190 T w o to Pe iraeus; one to P h a l e r u m - - - 191 T h e i r various n a m e s , and reasons for 191 Cratinus and Per ic les - - - - - 193 R o u t e a long the W a l l s - - - 194 Inscript ion concerning the m - - - - - 194

    C H A P . X X V .

    Grotto of the Nymphs at Mount Hymellus.

    t r r o t t o ; at Bar i - - - - -D e i t i e s , to w h o m dedicated -Inscript ions there i n the rock -L o n g u s , conjecture on L o c a l sugges t ions - - - - -Crinagoras L a n g u a g e of the Inscript ions -

    - 183 - 184 - 185 - 185 - 186 - 187 - 187

    - 188

    - 188

    - 195 - 195 - 195 - 196 - 196

    - 197

    - 198

  • C O N T E N T S . x v i i

    T h e Inscriptions are metrical . . . . - 199 Ersus 201 Inscript ion, conjecture o n * - - - - - - 202 P lato was once in this grotto - 204

    C H A P . X X V I .

    From Athens to Sunium.

    State of the country 206 Laure ium, road to 206 Sphett ian way ran in this direction . . . - 207 Proofs of this - - - - - - 207 Metdchi of Lgrona - - - . . . 208

    C H A P . X X V I I .

    Sunium, &c.

    T e m p l e at S u n i u m . . . . . 209 Minerva Prona 209 N e p t u n e at S u n i u m . . . . . 210 Importance of S u n i u m - - - - - - 211 D e c a y . Cicero - - - - - - 2 1 1 S u n i u m , A n a p h l y s t u s , Thor icus - - - - - 211 Ar i s to t l e , conjecture on - - - - - 211 Scoria. State of country - - . . . . 212 Thor icus , Theatre at - - - - - 212 J u v e n a l , V irg i l , Ar i s tophanes . . . . . 213 W a l l s , Gate and Harbour of Thor icus - - - 214 I s l e of H e l e n 214 Cephalus - - - - - - - 215 ' Thoric ian S t o n e ' in Sophocles - - - - - 215

    C H A P . X X V I I I .

    Thoricus, &c.

    S h a f t s ; expressions concerning - - - 217 Pancum. Kerati 218

    * I f the traces of the letters permitted, I should have preferred

    T A V T E P I O K V V E I i. e. TUVT' "Rptrov K\VL.

    b

  • x v i i i CONTENTS.

    A n c i e n t E p i t a p h s - - - - - - 219 Harbour o f Prasia; - - - - - - - 220 B r a u r o n ; I p h i g e n i a - 221 E v e n i n g in A l b a n i a n cottage - 223 A l b a n i a n Character - - - - - 2 2 3 Conjecture on Aris tot le - - - - - - 225 A n c i e n t Inscr ip t ion: ancient local and pol i t ical d iv is ions of A t t i c a 225

    C H A P . X X I X .

    Marcopoulo - - - - - - 228. Mesogasa - - - - - - - - 229 Steirian road - - - - - - 229 Stauro - - - - - - - - - 2 2 9 Return to A t h e n s - - - - - - 229

    C H A P . X X X .

    Cephiss ia . H e r o d e s A t t i c u s . Menander - 2 3 0 Cave of Fates - - - - - - 231 Garget tus - - - - - - - - 231 V i l l a s of Marous i . A m a r y s i a n D i a n a - - - 232 Ar i s tophanes i l lustrated - - - - - - 233 P la to ' s farm - - - - - - 234 Hercu le s ( H e r a k l e s ) and v i l l age of H a r a k l i - - - 234 Hephaestus and v i l l a g e of Chalcomatades - - - 234 P a l l e n e and v i l l age of P e l l i k o ( P e l l e n i k d ) - - - - 236 L o c a l reflections - - - - - - 238 Colonus and A c a d e m y - - - - - - - 239 A n c i e n t and modern resemblances - . - - - 239 W h e r e did ( E d i p u s d i e ? - - - - - - 2 4 0

    C H A P . X X X I .

    Cl imate of A t h e n s - - -Compared wi th that of Corinth A n d of B o t i a , &c . Present state of T h e b e s Kle f t s . . . . Present appearance of A t h e n s Cl imate and air of -Descr ipt ion b y a comic poet and Aris t ides Conjecture on

    - 2 4 3 - 243 - 244 - 245 - 245 - 246. - 247 - 2 4 7

    - 248.

  • CONTENTS. x i x

    C H A P . X X X I I . TAUK

    Bazar of A t h e n s - - - - - - - 249 Commodi t i e s and wants - - - - - 230 T u r k s s t i l l at Athens - - - - - - 250 C h a n g e s to e n s u e - - - - - - 251

    C H A P . X X X I I I .

    K i n g Otho ' s arrival 252 Consequences at A t h e n s - 253 Ceremonies of reconcil iat ion, ancient and modern - 253 Speech of B i s h o p of A t h e n s near the T e m p l e of T h e s e u s . Con-

    trasts 250

    C H A P . X X X I V .

    Present state of A t t i c a - 257 R o a d to P e i r a u s 258 Embarrassments aris ing from present state of the country - 259 M e n i d i whether Acharnae ? - - - - . 25,9 Th ier sch , E t a t A c t u e l de la Grece - 259

    C H A P . X X X V .

    Salamis.

    T o S a l a m i s 260 A l c i p h r o n , conjecture on - - . . _ 261 Menander ' s imaginary letter to Glycera - 261 " T h e S t r a i t s " - - - - . - 262 Psy t ta l e ia corrupted into L i p s o k o n t a l i ; m e a n i n g of these names - 263 X e r x e s on h i s s i lver-footed throne on M o u n t vEgaleos - . 2g3 Schol iast to A r i s t i d e s emended - - 263 Solitary state of the B a y of Sa lamis . . . . 264

    C H A P . X X X V I .

    Mgina.

    Form of / E g i n a 265 I t s three m o s t remarkable o b j e c t s ; Ci ty , T e m p l e , Oros - - 265 His tory of j E g i n a , aris ing from its posi t ion and soil - - 265

  • XX CONTKNTS.

    A n c i e n t Port - - 26fi T e m p l e near c i ty . . . . . - 267 D a t e of - - 267 Other T e m p l e at north-east of the is land - 268 Site , description . . . . - - 269 N o t the P a n h e l l e n i u m - - 269 B u t dedicated to Minerva - - - - - 270 T h e P a n h e l l e n i u m . . . . . . - 271 I t s s i te was on Oros , at southern ang l e of Aig'ma. - 271 Proofs of th is - - 272 T e m p l e s and Churches - - 273 .'Eacus and E l i a s . . . . . - 273 T e m p l e of Aphasa . . . . . . - 274 A n c i e n t Inscript ion there . . . - - 275 T e m p l e s of A p o l l o and N e p t u n e - - 276 Mi l i tary feud at TEgina . . . . - 277

    A P P E N D I X .

    Letter from M r Bracebr idge - - 279 Second letter - - 289

  • J.ft.C-WnJkci- Sculpt

    Published bu John \/ JUtemaHe Sinei JimeJQ.2S36.

  • C H A P T E R I.

    NE6R0PONT TO OROPO.

    A Chalcide A u l i d e m trajicit, inde O r o p u m A t t i c s ventura e s t ; u b i pro D e o vates antiquus c o l i t u r ; A t h e n a s inde p lenas quidem et ipsas vetustate famas, m u l t a tarnen visenda habentes , A r c e m , Por tus , M u r o s Peiraeeum urbi jungente s , naval ia magnorum Imperatorum, S imulacra D e o r u m h o m i n u m q u e .

    From Chalets he passes over to Aulis: thence to Oropus in Attica, where an ancient Seer (Amphiaraus) is adored as a God: thence to Athens, full of her old renown, yet having many objects deserving a visit, her Citadel, her Ports, and Walls which link the Peirceus to the City; Docks erected by great Commanders; the Statues of God and Men.

    HESIOD might have spared the only voyage which he informs 1 us he ever made, if this bridge which we cross this morning from Chalcis to the Boeotian shore had existed in his time. His love of glory over-came his antipathy to the sea, and tempted him across the Euripus. He returned from Chalcis to Ascra loaded with the poetic prize, which he dedi-

    T . L I V . X L V . 2 6 .

    O C T . 9 , 1 8 3 2 .

    1 W o r k s and D a y s , v. 649.

    A

  • 2 KUBiPUs. [CHAP. I.

    cated to the Muses of his native Helicon; and he afterwards wrote to his brother Perses of the dangers of the sea, which the Poet it seems knew too well ever to encounter.

    W e are now making on horseback the same passage which he made by water. The narrow bridge which we are crossing has influenced the fortunes, altered the 'name, and changed the character of Euboea. It was the policy of 2Boeotia, contrived with more than Boeotian shrewdness, to make "Eubeea an island to every one else but themselves." By its means the Boeotians blockaded against their southern enemies the

    1 Epnros i s i n the m o u t h o f a m o d e m Greek pronounced ' E v r i p o s ;

    from E v r i p o s comes ' E g r i p o s ; from E g r i p o s , ' N ' E g r i p o n , ( i n the a c c u s a -

    t i v e case, as from 'A/JHJIHI/OS c o m e s Navar ino , the O-T or eh TO b e i n g

    suppressed) , and from N e g r i p o n , b y a id of its br idge , w e arrive at the

    modern n a m e o f Euboea, Negro-ponte. T h i s prefix of the article wi th the

    prepos i t ion (i. e. s T O , & C . ) deserves not ice , as the cause of topographica l

    difficulties. I n the Greek S y n e c d e m u s of Hieroc le s ( p . 646) w e h a v e a l i s t

    of i E g e a n i s l a n d s . T h e r e the ment ion of Eubrca is soon fo l lowed b y that

    o f other i s l a n d s , AjJXos, S K T P 0 2 , T A A A M E N H . O n w h i c h W e s s e l i n g

    observes , "TaXafxmi e x SccAa/*Is i/ijo-os orta v i d e t u r . " S u c h is h i s c o n -

    jecture . B u t the corrupt word is probably n o t h i n g e lse than S T A

    A I M E N I , {i. e. -rd Xi/ueVta, The harbours), or Slalimni, w h i c h is the

    m o d e m n a m e of Lemnosi T h e n the combinat ion of the i s lands in H i e r o -

    c les b e c o m e s a very appropriate o n e : i t i s prec ise ly the s a m e , and in the

    s a m e order, as that in E u r i p i d e s ( T r o a d . 8 9 ) :

    AijAioi Te xoLpddts 2/c>ps T e AijfJLvv T e

    The Delian cliffs, Scyros and Lemnos.

    2 T h e br idge over the E u r i p u s was b u i l t b y the Boeotians B . C. 410. ( D i o d . S i c . x i n . 47 . ) I f P lu tarch b e r ight i n d o u b t i n g the g e n u i n e n e s s of the passage ascribed to H e s i o d a b o v e , that p a s s a g e is at least older than this date .

  • CHAP. I . ] AULIS. 3

    Athenians these ancient Dardanelles of Greece. They locked the door of Athenian commerce, and kept themselves the key. This was the channel, by which the gold of Thasos, the horses of Thessaly, the timber of Macedonia, the corn of Thrace were carried into the Peineus. Nor must we forget the vast importance of Eubcea itself, which from its position, and its produce, its quarries, its timber and its corn, was of inestimable value to Athens. Of the better part of this island her tenure was from that time precarious; and her com-munication with the northern markets was either de-pendent on the fear or amity of Boeotia, or it was exposed to the dangers of the open seathe perils of the treacherous Coela, and the "vengeful 3Caphareus," which on a former occasion had rendered such signal service to Athens by the havoc they had made in the invading armada of Persia.

    After passing the bridge of the Euripus we turn to the left. The road skirts the shore: the tracks of ancient wheels are visible in the rocky ledge which just rises above the sea. In a mile from the bridge we arrive at a flowing fountain. There are now some Greek peasants there, halting to give drink to their horses. They enquire of us, when the long-expected arrival of the new King of Greece will take place. They congratulate themselves on their recent liberation, on their being, as they style themselves, independent Hellenes, and no longer the slaves of Turkey.

    3 N o w corrupted to Cavo d'oro, ( the g o l d e n c a p e ) .

    A 2

  • 4 ANCIENT [CHAP. r.

    It was at a fountain near this spotperhaps at this source

    KaXrj1 VTTO irXaTavicrTcp o9ev peev ayXaov v^cop,

    Beneath the platane fair, whence gushed the shining stream.

    that Homer imagined a session of councillors and war-riors assembled round the King of Greece, who then found as much difficulty in leaving his dominions as his modern successor does now in entering them.

    W e enquire of these peasants the name of the site in which we are: it is called Vlike. This is pro-bably a modification of AvXacrj, which has the sound of Avlike to a modern Greek, and still preserves the recollection of the district of Aulis, when the name of Aulis itself has perished.

    W e ascend a high rugged hill which is on the right of our road, and on the western verge of a peninsula formed by two bays. A t its summit there is a ruined hellenic city, probably of the heroic age. Its huge polygonal walls remain in their complete circuit. The interior of the city is strewed with broken pottery, and overgrown with wild plants. It is in an ancient city like this, that the traveller feels, I might almost say, an emotion of gratitude that the physical structure and inorganic elements of this country are such as they happen to be. Nature did well in form-

    1 d V es kvKiSa vt}e9 'A\aLwv ijyepedowro, & c .

    I l i a d I I . 3 0 3 .

  • CHAP. I . ] CITY. 5

    ing Greece of hard imperishable limestone. For from this formation it results that the monuments here of the most remote times, constructed with the native stone, with all the severity of age combine the fresh-ness of recent structure; thus appearing to appro-priate the beholder to themselves, and not to be influenced by him. They exist not, it seems, in his age ; but he lives in theirs. Their share in to-day seems greater than his own.

    This is illustrated by the character of the place which we are now in. W e enter the gate of this ancient town. The towers which flanked the old gateway still stand, on your right and left. The groove of the gate, the socket which received its bar, seem to have been recently chiselled. Within the city at the N . W . a large square cistern is hewn in the living calcareous rock: its clean sharp sides seem to have been lately carved to receive a shower, which is expected soon to fall. You advance to the eastern wall: a flight of stone steps invites you to mount from the area of the city to a tower projecting from the wall, in order, you might almost fancy, that from its lofty eminence you might look down on the valley, the shore, and the Euripus now lying below you, and might thus assure yourself whether or no the Grecian fleet of Agamemnon was still lingering in the port of Aulis.

    To return from what might be, to what is. The hill on which wc stand is called MeyaXo Movvo

  • 6 AULIS. [CHAP. I.

  • CHAP. I . ] AULIS. 7

    smaller harbour, (

  • 8 DEAMISE. [CHAP. I.

    W e meet a shepherd of the country in our de-scent on the S.E. side of this mountain. H e informs us that there are ruins of hellenic cities on two neigh-bouring hills to the N . W . They are called by him Krv-n-a and Avrj(poprjTo (the steep). There is also an ancient citadel bordering on the sea, on a rocky pe-ninsula to the S .W. of our present position. One of our companions who explored it describes its construc-tion as very rude and strong 1 .

    Our road lies along the bare arable plain parallel to the sea, and bounded on the west by low hills. W e leave two hamlets, Psaloutha (^akovOa), and Gerile (TepiXtj) on our left: to our right, at about ten miles distance from 'Egripo is the village of Dra-mise (Apa/uto-ri). It lies in a large plain below a small insulated hill on which is a modern tower. There is a small church here dedicated to St George. If any vestiges of antiquity exist at all in a Greek village, some in the shape of decorated or inscribed marbles will generally be found in its church, for the construc-tion of which they have usually been employed. Thus the churches of Greek towns and hamlets have served the purpose of simple museums for the preservation of their local antiquities. At Dramise, neither in its church nor in any of its buildings, can I find any evidence that it occupies, as has been supposed, the site of an ancient city. It has been identified with Delium.

    1 Col . L e a k e ( T r a v e l s in Northern Greece , n - p . 264 ) s u p p o s e s th is

    p e n i n s u l a to be the s i te of A u l i s .

  • CHAP. I . ] DELIUM. 9

    There is indeed a tumulus on its shore, which might be considered an interesting relic of Delium 2, and of its field of battle; if there were better evidence than there is of its coincidence with that city. But to the site which Delium occupied another village has succeeded, similar to Delium in name. There can be no doubt that Atj\iat now covers the spot, which has been rendered famous by the intrepidity of Socrates, and the misfortunes of his country. Delisi is about seven miles from Oropd, the site of the ancient Oropus. It stands a little to the right of the road on a rising ground, which shelves down into the plain. The road soon divides into two branches; the path on the right hand, which we now pursue, leading over the shrubby hills to Oropus, that on the left skirting the sea-shore, and crossing the river Asopus at its entrance to the sea.

    The site of Delisi has many advantages. It stands on the southern verge of the flat strip of land which fringes the sea from the Euripus, and now converges to a narrow margin running on southward from Delisi along the shore. It therefore commanded this avenue from Attica unto Boeotia along the coast. This was

    2 D e l i u m cou ld not h a v e stood at Dramise": for D e l i u m was only

    five m i l e s from T a n a g r a ( L i v . x x x v . 5 1 ) , and ten stadia from D e l i u m

    p l a c e d the A t h e n i a n s just on the Oropian frontier, (p.d\i

  • 1 0 BATTLE OF [CHAP. I.

    probably the reason why it was' seized and fortified by the Athenians as a post from which they might sally against their northern neighbours, and protect themselves from their aggression. In this sense Delium was a Boeotian Deceleia.

    Its maritime position was also favourable. It is not close to the sea, but it no doubt possessed build-ings on the shore. The sea makes here a reach in a south-easterly direction, so that a bay exists in the curve thus formed. By the possession of this bay Delium was made the emporium of the important city of Tanagra, which was five miles in the interior. The village of Delisi is now in ruins.

    Our road bears to the right. W e begin to as-cend over wild and uncultivated hills, overgrown with low shrubs, and broken into deep furrows by the tor-rents which plough their way from the higher moun-tains on our right in their course into the sea. It was an evening in this season, at the beginning of winter, 2 when the battle of Delium was fought. It took place at 8about a mile to the south of the village from which it was named. One of these sloping hills 4 covered the Boeotian forces from the sight of their Athenian antagonists. These abrupt

    1 T h u c . I V . 92. Ttju HoitnTiav (ol Ad)]valot.) tfc T ^ S o/xopou \0ovTet, T e I x o s (cu A'jA-i'w) ei/oLKo6op.ij(7dfj.vott /xeWovtrt cpQetpeiv. The Athe-

    nians, having marched from the border-land, and erected for themselves

    a fortress at Delium, intend to ravage Soiolia. 2 B . C. 424. 8 SeKa oraiiovs. T h u c . i v . 90 . 4 Xo>os-. T h u c . I V . 96.

  • CHAP. I . ] DELIUM. 11

    'gullies channelled in the soil by the autumnal rain impeded the conflict of the two armies. They afforded less embarrassment to the manuvres of the lighter troops; it was to their superiority in this species of force that the Boeotians were mainly indebted for their victory. Their success was complete. The darkness of the night, and his own good genius, preserved the Athenian Philosopher. He seems to have escaped in the first instance by following the bed of one of these "deep ravines into which the soil has been ploughed by the mountain streams : He returned home together with 7 his pupil and his friend by a particular road, which his guardian spirit prompted him to take, and which in vain he recommended to his other comrades, whom the enemy convinced too late of their unhappy error.

    W e cross the deep bed of the river Asopus at the village of Sycamind, and then, in thirty minutes, arrive among the low cottages of Oropd.

    6 pa/ces. T h u c . i v . 96. 0 P l u t a r c h d e Socrat. Daemon. 581 . 32. Hvpi\d/i7n)^ b AvTitpoiwros

    aAos v T?T Siw]~6i Trepi Ai']\iov, as ijKoua-e T W V irl Tas c iroyas

    dftiKOfivmv AQi)vaiwv OTI SwKpaTfs [xen- AXxtfiidou Kai Adx'JTos TTI

    P H T I 2 T H 2 KCtTaps d7rov6ifoa"ri'}KOL) iro\\. [Jii/ TOTOV aVe/caXtraTu,

    7rcA\a S 6J3ij /J.6T' aro irapa TIJV Hdpvi}tia

    cpeiyovaiv anrodavelv. JMuller ( O r c h o m e n o s , p . 491 . ) for the corrupt

    words P H T I S T H S proposes P E I T O Y S (pei-rol are payfioi. H e s y c h .

    in v . , and ident ica l w i th the pa/tes descr ibed as e x i s t i n g here b y T h u c y -

    d i d e s ) . P lu tarch probably wrote P E I T O I S T I 2 I . T h e confusion arose

    from the modern pronunciat ion in w h i c h the sounds of pijTi'cn-ijs and

    peiTo Tts are ident ica l .

    7 A l c i b i a d e s and L a c h e s . P l a t . S y m p o s . 231 . A . and w i th X e n o p h o n .

    Strabo. 403. C.

  • C H A P T E R II.

    OEOPO TO IANAGEA.

    'llvTv6tt> (ef Qpunrov*) tls Tavdyptiv aTuhia p\'. O'SCK Si*

    e\ato

  • CHAP. II . ] SYC AMINO. 13

    are now not so common there as plane-trees and pines. But the latter part of his description could not be applied now. The route is by no means free at present from all apprehension of klefts: or, in the words of our Greek Guides, it is far from being a crTjOaTa TracTTpiKrj.

    It might have been this difference of circumstances which induced the ancient Topographer to loiter longer on the road under the shade of these pleasant trees by the side of the Asopus, and thus, from the length of time which elapsed, to infer that the distance was greater, than they, who now are not so fortunate, are willing to allow. By us the distance from Oropus to Tanagra would be estimated at ten miles.

    Of the trees which once overhung the river another record is probably preserved in the appellation of the little village which we traversed yesterday at dusk, and which we again pass this morning in our way to Tanagra. The mulberries (crvKafxivoi) which once grew there have perhaps lent their name as well as their shade to this hamlet of Sycamind. It is inhabited by Albanians. The women stand before their doors habited in a long white woollen coat, which was no doubt suggested by the exigencies of a colder climate than that in which they now live, and which there-fore indicates not obscurely the northern extraction

    s L i t e r a l l y ' a clean road, ' an express ion used as oSos Ka&apcvovaa

    in Dica iarchus .

  • 14 TANAGRA. [CHAP. II.

    of these Albanian families. The braided hair of these women falls over the back in two long streaming folds like that of the figures which are seen in the earliest sculptured representations of the Deities of Greece 1

    Candida d i v i d u a col ia t egente coma . O V I D .

    With parted hair veiling the snowy neck.

    A t Sycamino the road turns to the left, and as-cends the stream of the Asopus on its northern bank. The modern name of the Asopus here is Borien, of which appellation I cannot ascertain the meaning. It winds its way through low hills, in which it has made some romantic chasms. Beyond it on our left are the hills of Boiati, and ascending above them the loftier ridge of Mount Parnes, at the foot of which Bceotia began. The modern name of Boiati may be a record of this territorial starting-place.

    The only habitation visible on our right is the tower of Staniati and a small village of the same name.

    The site of Tanagra is now called Graimada (Tpai/naSa2). It is a large hill nearly circular in

    1 S e e an e x a m p l e in Z o e g a Bass i r i l i ev i . T . n . p . 2 3 9 . 2 Tpaifia in romaic is derived from ypaivu ( i . e. enpaivm) to moi s t en

    or ba the , and has thus a s imi lar s ignif icat ion to Tci/ayoi, a marsh, w i th w h i c h Tavdypa i s probably connected, b e i n g p l a c e d

    evda Tre&iov 'Aa-anrns poals apSa. j E s c h y l . Pers . 791 .

  • CHAP. II . ] TANAGRA. 15

    form, neither abrupt nor high. It rises from the north bank of the Asopus, and communicates by a bridge with the south side of the stream, where are also ancient remains. The proximity of the city to the Asopus supplies the reason why Tanagra was styled the daughter 3 of that river; and the ancient 4 name of the inhabitants themselves may perhaps have arisen from the requirements of that proximity, which are still provided for by the present bridge.

    On the east of the city, separated from it by a small stream, which runs into the Asopus, there is another hill. There are some female peasants engaged in washing linen there, whilst they stand with their feet in the running stream. They call the torrent Lari, the hill above it Kokali. 5 This eminence was consecrated to the minds of the ancient Tanagrseans by the local tradition, which made it the birth-place of Mercury. There is no other eminence near it to dispute its right, and its present name may possibly be corrupted from that which it then bore.

    The vestiges of Tanagra are not so considerable as the importance of the place had led us to expect. They are more remarkable for their extent than grandeur. There are some few remnants of polygonal masonry, and a gate of the city on the southern side of it, of which the lintel is more than six feet in

    3 P a u s a n . I I . 2 0 . 1 FetpvpaToi. 5 P a u s . I I . 20 . opo9 KtipvKiov evQa 'Eppijv T e x " ? " " ' \eyovtri.

  • 16 TANAGKA. [CHAP. II.

    length, and made of a single stone. The circuit of the walls can be traced, but there is little left of them but their foundations. The ground is thickly strewn with minute fragments of earthenware, which bespeak the existence here of a numerous population in former times, and remain an interesting relic of the domestic economy and social intercourse of private families and individuals, while the strong wall and towers of the citadel no longer survive to give any authentic evidence of the former power of the State.

    This is probably owing not to the early destruc-tion, but to the prolonged existence of Tanagra 1 . It survived most of its confederate cities. In the Au-gustan age, Thespise and Tanagra were the only Boeotian towns which were preserved. Tanagra lin-gered on for a long time under the Roman sway in Greece. Its extant coins are many of them imperial. But its walls were then no appropriate condition of its dependent existence. Their materials were there-fore destroyed, or converted to purposes of a more pacific character. Hence its vestiges are found to be what they are. In the degradation to which it was reduced under a Roman dynasty, the city of Tanagra might be said to exist rather in terra-cotta than in stone.

    A t the N . W . corner of the citadel, the outline is traceable of a semicircular building, probably a

    1 Strabo, 410. B . "Nvvl Qe

  • CHAP. II . ] TANAGRA. 17

    Theatre. It is scooped out in the slope on which the walls are built: it looks outwards on the plain below it. There is another site similar in shape to this, in the interior of the city, a little to the south of the present spot. In one of these two positions stood the Theatre at Tanagra, which Pausanias visited, and in which perhaps the minstrel of Tanagra, whose beauty 2, as he informs us, to judge by her statue, was equal to her poetical accomplishments, sung her strains which were so agreeable

    Tavaypi^eaai \VK07r7r\ois'

    fxeya & e/nrj yeyaOe 7ro\is XiyovpoKWTiXrjs evoTrrj's'

    To white-stol'd Tanagrsean maids; For deeply do they love the clear And plaintive roundelay to hear.

    CORINNA 3 (in Hephsestion. p. 106. Gaisf.)

    The former of these two localities commands an exten-sive view. Looking eastward, the plain of the Asopus stretches beneath us, from east to west. To the south of it is a range of mountains: of which Mount

    2 P a u s a n . i x . 2 2 . 3 . VLopivva yvvatKutv T O T E 6?; KCXXIO-TIJ TO

    eloos , et T t oi] etKovi SeT TeKp.aiptrdai ij fxovi) Stj ei' Tavdypa atr/xaTa

    3 W h e r e these three G l y c o n i c s are preceded b y a fourth,

    tcaXd yepota eitrofieva.

    W h i c h should perhaps b e written

    KaXd yap 0 I 8 ' det.GOp.eva

    ( i . e. / know that I shall sing pleasing strains.) T o whi te - s to l 'd , & c .

    TavayplSeccri KeuKO-ireTrXoLs.

  • 18 TANAGRA. [CHAP. II.

    1 Elate is the western, and Mount Nozia, the ancient Parnes, is the eastern extremity.

    A peasant here informs us that there are remains of an ancient city in the way from Tanagra to Thebes, to the N . W . of this spot, at an hour's distance from it, at a modern village called Bratchi. Which does this represent of the ancient members of the 2 Tana-grsean Tetrapolis?

    From the citadel of Tanagra we descend into the plain on the north, in the hope of finding some further vestiges of the ancient city. There are two churches in this plain, one to the west, the other to the east of the stream Lari: the one is dedicated to S. Nicolas, the other to S. George. They are at about a mile's distance from the city. From the blocks of hewn stone, and sculptured marble, inserted in their plaster-walls, and lying near them, they may be sup-posed to have succeeded to the site of old Temples of Tanagra. The long distance which we traverse in passing to these Temples from the city of Tanagra, might still suggest the same reflection which was made by the 3 Pagan traveller, of whose peculiar temper it

    1 'EXon-i is the present n a m e o f M o u n t Cithasron, der ived from the

    silver-firs ( eXai -a i ) w h i c h grow there. H e n c e E u r i p i d e s very properly

    p laces P e n t h e u s on an cXaVi/, whence h e observes the Bacchas on M o u n t

    Cithaaron. ( E u r . B a c c h . 7 5 0 . 1070. 1090. ) 2 Strabo. 405 , c. e c r . TT/9 TerpaKw/xias TTJS ircpl Tavdypav, EXeajvos,

    "ApuaTos, Mv/caX^fftrou, Qiipuiv. 3 P a u s a n . i x . 22 . 3 . Tavaypalot l/Ofxiaai ret 69 TOUS 0eoi9 juaXio-Ta

    ( q u . ftdXXto-Ta, i. e. tidWurTa ?) doKovtnv 'EXXijvwi'. xwpi* V^p al o'lKlttL

  • CHAP. II . ] PAUSANIAS. 19

    is very characteristic, that the idea which the inha-bitants of Tanagra entertained of the Deities whom they adored, was of a more respectful character than was usually to be found in the devotional feelings of Greek cities. This idea, he observed, was expressively evinced by the free areas and fair sites, unembarrassed by surrounding edifices, aud sequestered from the traffic of the city, which were by them selected for the abodes of their Deities. In these buildings there are no other remains than these fragments. Of in-scriptions we find here only a few broken syllables. But there is an inscription4 of some interest on a stone in the walls of another church. That church stands on the southern side of the Asopus, which we cross by the bridge above noticed. It is dedicated to St Theo-dore, and is built almost entirely of ancient massive blocks. The former part of this inscription records in elegiac verse the dedication of a statue by a victor in a gymnastic contest; the latter is a frag-ment of an honorary decree conferring the rights of citizenship on a native of Athens in consideration of the services which he had rendered to the state of Tanagra.

    o'tKiaL

  • 20 TANAGRA. [CHAP. II.

    The inscription, it may be remarked, is also of importance as supplying conclusive evidence, if evidence were wanting, that the site of Graimda is identical with that which was formerly occupied by Tanagra. W e return to Orop in the evening.

  • C H A P T E R H I .

    OROPUS.

    O U T O I 5' elo-\v

  • 22 OROPUS. [CHAP. III.

    cannot be persuaded to expose himself to the dangers of the road from Oropus to Acharnse, although the person who invites him is no other than the wife of the Greek military chief, Captain Vassos, whose sol-diers are now in uncontrolled possession of this whole province. The character of a bard is no longer suffi-ciently sacred, nor is the passport of their chief enough respected, to procure him protection from these bandits. Some of them are known to be at no great distance from this place. Last night a neighbouring sheep-fold suffered from their depredations. He therefore declines the invitation. He informs the wife of the Acharnian chief that she must find herself a minstrel nearer her own home.

    av\riTi $e of Svo Trot/neves, eh f-ev 'A-^apvevs'.

    To her of Pipers twain one shall Acharnee send.

    There are few remains of antiquity at Oropo. The modern cottages are built round a low hill. Some large blocks of hewn stone are all that remains of the fortifications of a town which was, on account of its site, so long the object of military contention to its two powerful neighbours. A few mutilated 2inscrip-

    1 T h e o c r i t . v n . 7-3 T h e y are pr inc ipal ly sepulchral .

    ( 0 (*) Z Q S I M H B O Y A A P X H ZQ:

    A N T I O X O Y A P I S T A P X O Y K A

    I n the church of S. G e o r g e on a m a r b l e s u n - d i a l is

    I A S Q N I A S O N O S

    A Z H N I E Y 2 A N E 0 H K E

    Z Q 2 I N I K 0 2 K A A O E E N O Y

  • CHAP. III.] DELPHINIUM. 23

    tions are all that survives of the literature of a city, which formerly occasioned by its 3 misfortunes the in-troduction of Greek philosophy into the schools and palaces of Rome.

    W e descend from Oropus to the sea. The road terminates after two miles at the small bay called Ai Apostolus (es TOVS aylovs 'ATTOO-TOXOVS, at the Holy Apostles), most probably the site of Delphi-nium, which was once the harbour of Oropus. Of this identity we have some evidence in the modem usage of the place for the same commercial purposes. Apostolus is now the wharf of Oropo ( cr / caXct TOV 'QpwTrov) : it is the port from which passengers em-bark for Euboea. This was the case with Delphinium. The name itself of Apostolus was, I conceive, chosen from reference to this its maritime character. The 4 vessels which left its harbour, the voyages which were here commenced, suggested, from the very terms in the language by which they were described, the pre-sent appropriate dedication of the place to the Holy Apostles; which the pious ingenuity, by which the Greek Church has always been distinguished, has not allowed to be suggested in vain.

    A t Apostolus there are few vejstiges: there is a tumulus with a sarcophagus near it, and an ancient well. On our right is a hill with a middle-age tower,

    3 A u l u s G e l l i u s , v n . 14. 4 'Airoo-ToXa irXola ( s ee P l a t o E p i s t . v n . ) T h e dirosTokoi were s u -

    per intended b y officers ca l led 'Airoo-T-oXels. Harpocrat . in v .

  • 24 EARLIER SITE [CHAP. I I I .

    probably erected to command the harbour. The con-venience of the place has induced Vassos the Greek Capitano mentioned above, to select it as the site of a large ill-shapen house, which he is now erecting on the spot.

    It seems to me highly probable that Oropus itself occupied in earlier times a site on the sea-shore 1. The founders of Greek cities very frequently chose a maritime situation; or if an inland one was selected, it had those recommendations of natural strength, which though affording less facility for acquiring wealth, sup-plied security for maintaining it. But the site of the modern Orop has neither the strength of an inland nor the opportunities of a maritime position. Y e t choice of both was offered at no great distance. That offer was not I think declined. Oropus I believe stood on the sea-shore at the time of the Peloponnesian war. 2 The historian of that war seems to refer to such a situation. :i There is distinct testimony of its removal from the coast to an inland position; that transfer was probably not permanent; for the inha-bitants of Oropus were renowned in later times for their grasping exactions levied on all imports into their

    1 H e n c e I w o u l d propose to reconci le the discrepancies in the e s t imate

    of the d i s tance from O r o p u s to T a n a g r a not iced a b o v e , p . 13, see b e l o w ,

    p. 25. 2 T h u c . i n . 9 1 . H e speaks of sailing to, and anchoring at, O r o p u s :

    /c x?)s MtjAou e 7 r \ e u c a u e t s 'Qpmirou T /S irpau yijs, eiiQils 8e

    o - ^ / T e s v i i i . 95. TOV 'Qpwjrou irryaye T a s i / a u s . P a u s a n i a s ,

    . 34 , p laces it on the coast . 3 B . (J . 402, by the Boeotians. D i o d o r . x i v . 17.

  • CHAP. I I I . ] OF OROPUS. 25

    country; a character which seems to imply that their city was a sea-port 4.

    4 Dicasarchus, p . 1 2 . if -TTOXIS 'Qpojiriaif O I K I A Qrjfiuiv earriv, fieTafio-

    epyaCLa^-.TeXoivova-t irdvTa Ta peWouTa irpos airToys eltrdyea-BaL'

    Tpaxfts ev T a i s o/uXiai9. O n compar ing th is character wi th the very similar one w h i c h Dicasarchus g i v e s to the T h e b a n s (p . 1 5 ) , w h o m the

    Oropians strove to imitate ( p . 1 2 ) , I suspect h e wrote, ins tead o f the u n -

    i n t e l l i g i b l e O I K I A , ; 7roXi9 T U V 'Qpuirrritaii C K I A Q^jiihv itrri, The

    city of Oropus is the facsimile of Thebes (crjcia 6 > | j 3 a w ) . T h i s e x p r e s -

    s ion is in the fanci ful spirit of that writer. O f the confusion b e t w e e n

    alxiit and j t i i j , in th is sense of < r / a a , see B e n t l e y Pha lar i s , p . 1 3 7 , on

    \oyos epyov aKid. I n A n d o c i d e s ( p . 1 1 2 . B e k k e r ) for viro T>]V a-Kidv,

    the best M S . has inrd TI]V OIKIUV.

  • C H A P T E R IV.

    A P H I D N A E .

    n not TO! AANAI. T H E O C . I I . 1.

    Wliere are my Bay-trees vanisKdf

    THE Abb Barthlmy, whose Voyage du Jeune Anacharsis 1 we find an agreeable companion in Attica, promises us on the road from Oropus to Athens, on a part of which we now are, some pleasant objects, which we cannot discover on the spot where they are said by him to exist. His party of travellers, in their journey from Athens to Oropus at the beginning of spring, found, as he tells us, the road sheltered by the green foliage of bay-tree groves. Before their arrival at Oropus they visit the temple of Amphia-raus, which was agreeably situated in the neighbour-hood of limpid streams.

    Now the promise of this scenery on the way-side rests solely on the supposed assurance of Aris-totle's scholar Dicsearchus, some leaves of whose

    1 m . p . 235 . C h a p , x x x i v . N o u s part mes d ' A t h n e s dans les

    premiers jours du m o i s M u n y c h i o n . N o u s arr ivmes l e soir m m e

    Orope , par u n c h e m i n assez rude , m a i s o m b r a g en q u e l q u e s endroits

    de bois de lauriers.

  • C H A P . I V . ] D I C j E A R C H U S A N D B A R T H E L E M Y . 2 7

    journal of his tour in Greece are still preserved to us. From Athens, says Dicsearchus, 2 els 'Qpwirov 8td A A O N 1 A Q N KCU TOV 'Aixcpiapaov Atos \epov 80s

    With

    respect to this Temple of Amphiaraus, its site has been fixed, by aid of inscriptions found on the spot, at about three miles from Apostolus, near a stream in a deep valley which we cross in our ascent to the modern village of 3Calamo. And first it may be re-marked, that this 4 Oracle of Amphiaraus would hardly have occurred in the road from Athens to Oropus, had Oropus been on the site of Oropo, and not, as has been above suggested, on the sea. The road would then have passed at some distance to the west of the Temple, and not, as it did, immediately by it.

    But however this may bewith respect to the other features of the routethe bay-tree groves can hardly plead as an excuse for their own absence, that Time, which has ruined the Temple, has also uprooted them. They in fact never really existed here. They

    3 Dicsearch. , p . 11 , thus rendered b y a l l the e d i t o r s : "From Athens

    to Oropus is an ascending road of about a day's journey to an expedi-

    tious pedestrian, which passes through BAY-TREE Groves, and the

    Temple of Zeus Amphiaraus."

    3 S e e Colone l L e a k e ' s very v a l u a b l e M e m o i r on the D e m i o f A t t i c a ,

    p . 201 , ( i n Transact ions of R o y a l Soc . of L i t . V o l . 1.) T h e inscr ip-

    t ions are now in the Br i t i sh M u s e u m , N o s . 368, 378.

    * W h e r e g a m e s were celebrated in h i s honour. I n P h i l e m o n L e x -

    icon T e c h n o l o g . p . 42 . ( e d . B u m e y . ) TTOWOI dyowrai. dywves" cv

    Aefiadeia Ta tca\ovp.eva 'EpojVeia, Bao"iA_ei, Kal Tpoiptoveia, eu tie

    'ilpwirm i -a Ap.

  • 28 SITE OF [CHAP. IV.

    have been planted in such abundance upon these hills by 'geographers, out of the fertile nursery-garden of a false print. The word ScKpvwv in the text of Dicsearchus is an error of his transcribers: it is not Greek. And besides, what topographer would have ever described a route of about thirty miles, which is the distance of Athens to Oropus, by telling his readers that it passed through "bay-toees and a temple?" To give his description any value some known place or town would have been specified in it. The passage is therefore corrupt. And how is this corruption to be removed? Simply by changing the unintelligible ex-pression A I A A A ^ N I A O N , by an easy transposition, into A l ' A $ I A N Q N . The Attic borough A P H I D N i E may be inferred from a passage in Herodotus 2 to have been near Deceleia. Now Deceleia was in the direct road from Athens to Oropus 3, that is, on the precise road which Dicsearchus is here describing. Again, the verbal confusion of A O I A N Q N with A A $ N I A Q N , which I here suspect to have occurred in the text of Dicsearchus, is both easy for transcribers to make, and was in fact frequently made 4 . The inference therefore before suggested by Herodotus becomes almost a cer-

    1 K r u s e also ( H e l l a s , n . p . 2 8 3 ) speaks of this country as b e i n g " e i n e r G e g e n d , w o der we i s se l e h m i c h t e B o d e n , d e n s chon Dicmarch. bemerkte , Lorbeerbume a u f der H o h e n ernhrte ."

    2 Herodot . IX. 73 . Xeyovari Tob? AeaeXeas KaTiiyijtrac&at 7rl Tau 'AiSvav, B e k k e r ' s M S S .

    S . Q . O .

  • CHAP. I V . ] APHIDN.E FOUND. 29

    tainty. Deceleia was 120 stadia from Athens 5 . Hence assuming,what from Herodotus compared with Di-csearchus we may now safely do,that Aphidnse was near to Deceleia, whose direction and distance from Athens are known, we are now enabled to assign the site of the important fortress Aphidnse; which was the asylum of Helen, the borough of the poet 6 Tyrtseus, and of the two illustrious friends, 7Harmodius and Aristogeiton. Other topographical consequences may be deduced from this result. The two Attic vil-lages of 8Perrhide and "Titacidse were connected by relationship and vicinity with the town of Aphidnse. The determination of their positions hangs as a corol-lary on that, which is now ascertained, of Aphidnse their more important and illustrious neighbour.

    W e do not now proceed further in the direct road to Athens, but wishing to take Rhamnus and Marathon in our way, we diverge from Kalamo in

    S . Q . O . u . have 'A(pv iSa , and F . Y . p. v . give"AtpviSa: aga in in P lutarch

    T h e s . c. 32. and in Harpocrat . V. QvpywviSat, ArpviSaXai was written

    for 'A

  • 30 MILITARY TOWER. [ C H A P . I V ,

    a south-easterly direction. The route lies over a mountain-tract broken into frequent ravines by the torrents which fall from the higher summits on our right. It ascends with more or less rapidity, till we arrive near a spot called Gliathi, on the broad tops of Mount Barnaba. Here is a magnificent view, which extends on the west over the highest ridge of Mount Parnes (Nozia), and catches a glimpse of the shining waters of the Saronic gulf. To the south of us at a small distance are the high peaks of Tirlos. They are probably those of the ancient Brilessus'. Beneath us on our left is the strait of the Eubcean sea.

    The surface of these hills is here and there clothed with low shrubs. But there are no timber-trees. W e must, I suppose, console ourselves for the dreary barrenness which is spread over this whole country, by adopting Plato's belief, that in better days it was shaded by stately trees which are now no more 2 .

    A t Gliathi, a little to the right of the road, are some well-preserved remains of an ancient 3 military tower. It is constructed with well-joined polygonal

    1 T h e r e m a y indeed b e s o m e verbal connex ion b e t w e e n M o u n t

    Barnaba and Parnes (Hdpmida accus . ) on the one h a n d , and T i r l o s or

    Tr i los and BpiXtjo-o-os on the other. 2 P l a t o . Critia. I I I . c. TTOXXJJ" &v TOLS opeaiv vXrjv e l ^ e f . 3 T h e d i m e n s i o n s a r e : T o w e r 24 ft. s q u a r e : greatest h e i g h t about

    30 ft. T h e width o f the door at bo t tom 5 ft. 3 . i n . : at top 4 ft. 2 in .

    W i n d o w s 2 ft. broad at t o p . T h e l in te l o f the door 8 ft. in l e n g t h .

  • CHAP. I V . ] GRAMMATICO. 31

    stones. It had one entrance looking to the west: this entrance was defended by two doors, one opening inwards, the other outwards. There are also two loop-holes in the walls.

    This building is an interesting illustration of the importance of the line of communication over these mountains to Athens, the value of which was best proved by its loss. A little to the west of the tower is a spring of water, with the remains of ancient sub-structions, and a bas-relief lying near it of very good execution, but too much mutilated to warrant a con-jecture on its subject.

    W e proceed for about three miles till we arrive at the verge of this broad mountain area. It begins now to descend towards a plain which communicates with the field of Marathon, and then terminates in the sea.

    After a descent of half an hour we arrive to pass the night in the Albanian village of Grammaticd.

  • C H A P T E R V.

    HHAMNUS.

    ? ? oIkuir t]

  • CHAP. V. ] ALBANIAN COTTAGE. S3

    strewed, which in the day-time serve for saddles, and for couches by night. The fire is employed in boiling-some rice for our repast. On the other side of it sit two Albanian women twirling their spindles, and occasionally uttering a few syllables, before they put between their teeth the flax which is to be wound on the spindle. Another is engaged in kneading some cakes which are inserted among the wood-ashes of the fire, and thus baked. The master of the house stands at the door, with his scarlet scull-cap on his head, a belt girding his white cotton tunic, over which he wears a shorter vest of woollen, thick woollen gaiters, and sandals consisting merely of a sole of untanned leather tied with leathern thongs over the instep. About him are some children, whose necks glitter with gilded coins strung into a necklace.

    On the wall of the cottage hangs a loom (ef>ya~ Xelov), which has probably not altered its form since the contest of Minerva with Arachne: near it are some bins filled with the acorns of the Balania oak, which will be exported for dyeing. There are also lying near them some silk-works (KOVKOUXIO), from which the silk (uera^i) is soon to be unwound, and some husks of the cotton-plant (bambaki) bursting with their snow-white contents.

    As the night comes on, these objects about lis are only dimly illumined by the light of our fire: no other light is provided. Ere long, all the children of the family are laid side by side on one mantle on the

    C

  • 34 K H A M N U S . [CHAP. V.

    floor, at the more distant end of the apartment. The master of the house terminates this domestic series, which consists of ten persons. Sleep soon comes and strings the whole family together like a row of beads in one common slumber. Further beyond them, and separated from the family by a low partition, is the place allotted to the irrational members of the house-hold. The fowls come there from the open air to roost on the transverse rafters of the roof: the ox stands there at his manger, and eats his evening meal: and the white faces of three asses belonging to the family are seen peering out of the darkness, and bending nearly over their sleeping master and his children.

    The time and place, the group and the glim-mering light, remind one of a more solemn sceneof a Christmas praesepe, such for instance as would have come from the vigorous and rustic pencil of Bassano.

    Our host conducts us the next morning from Grammatico to some ruins to the east of the village. They are the remains of the ancient Rhamnus. The path lies over some low hills sprinkled with groups of wild pear (aypia diriciia), heath (epe'inri), and arbutus {Kofxapia). In an hour and a half we arrive at the site of the ruins.

    Their position is remarkable. The ground is covered with dense clumps of lentisk (o-^olvo). There is no house visible. W e are standing on a long woody

  • CHAP. V . ] TWO TEMPLES. 35

    ridge which runs eastward to the sea; on each side of it is a ravine running parallel to it. On the eastern extremity of this ridge is a small rocky peninsula. This was the site of the town of Rhamnus. The ruins first mentioned are those of its two Temples. They stand at a few minutes'1 walk to the west of this j>eninsula on the higher ground, at which we first arrived.

    Among the lentisk-bushes which entangle the path there, you are suddenly surprised with the sight of a long wall of pure white marble, the blocks of which, though of irregular forms, are joined with the most exquisite symmetry. This wall runs eastward, and meets another of similar masonry abutting upon it at right angles. They form two sides of a platform. On this platform are heaps of scattered fragments of columns, mouldings, statues and reliefs, lying in wild confusion. The outlines of two edifices standing nearly from north to south are distinctly traceable, which are almost contiguous, and nearly though not quite parallel to each other. These two edifices were tem-ples ; this terrassed platform was their Tenevo? or sacred enclosure. The western of these temples, to judge from its diminutive size and ruder architecture, was of much earlier date than the other. It consisted of a simple cella, being constructed in antis: whereas the remains of its neighbour show that it possessed a double portico and a splendid peristyle. It had twelve columns on the flank, and six on each front.

    c 2

  • 36 TEMPLE OF NEMESIS. [CHAP. V.

    A s the modern towns of Italy have now their patron saint, so of old the villages of Attica had in most cases their tutelary deity. Hercules was the hero of Marathon: Amphiaraus was supreme at Oropus: Diana in the villages of Brauron, Athmonum, and Myr-rhinus: and Rhamnus gave a name as well as its homage to the goddess Nemesis. Which of these two temples which stand on this terrace, was consecrated to that deity?

    The Rhamnusian goddess, so Nemesis was called, seems to have a natural claim to the noblest edifice in her own city. The larger and more modern of these temples has therefore been assigned to her.

    This opinion seems reasonable. The following is an evidence of its truth. In rambling among the ruined blocks of building I happen to light upon a large slab lying on its face. On turning it over, I find it to be traced with an ancient inscription: a part is broken off, the rest is much corroded by the damp earth upon which it lay: it runs thus, with the conjectural 1 supplements which seem to me most pro-bable :

    1 The supplementary or conjectural portion in this and following inscriptions, is distinguished from the rest by red ink.

  • CHAP. V . ] LARGER TEMPLE OP NEMESIS. 3 7

    H

  • 38 LARGER TEMPLE OF NEMESIS. [CHAP. V.

    This inscription records the dedication by He-rodes Atticus, who had a villa in this neighbourhood, of a statue of one of his adopted children, Polydeu-cion, to the goddess Nemesis.

    From this inscription confirming the previous pre-sumption, it is clear that the larger of the two temples, in which the inscription now lies, was dedi-cated to NEMESIS. The question now arises, to whom was the smaller temple consecrated, which nearly touches the former.

    It has been inferred, from the discrepancy of age of these two buildings, together with their very un-symmetrical local combination, that they never existed as contemporaneous temples for worship, but that the smaller of the two was either destroyed or fell into decay, before the larger was erected.

    The 'Persians are known to have destroyed the Greek temples of which they acquired possession. When they landed at Marathon they probably em-ployed some of their large force in this work of demolition. The earlier temple at Rhamnus is sup-posed to have been one of their victims. After the battle a statue, we are told, was wrought from the 2 Parian marble which the Persians brought as material

    1 Cic . de L e g g . n . 10. M a g i s auctor ibus X e r x e s inflammasse templa

    (m.fxirpavai veios. j E s c h y l . P e r s . 815 . ) Graecorum dic i tur . 2 T h e s ingu lar story of the Par ian or ig in and Pers ian transport o f

    the marble block from which the statue of N e m e s i s was m a d e , rests on the

    s i n g l e

  • C H A P . V . ] S M A L L E R T E M P L E O F N E M E S I S . 39

    for a trophy of their anticipated victory, and dedicated to the Rhamnusian Nemesis. This statue was, perhaps, one of the ornaments of the second more magnificent temple, which the Athenians erected in honour of the goddess, who had exercised in their favour her func-tions of chastising the insolence of presumptuous men, who in this case outraged the sanctity of her worship.

    3 Such is the supposition by which the awkward collocation of these two temples has been explained. It seems to be partially true, but not in its full extent. The earlier temple was probably destroyed, but not at the time here assigned. This may be shown from the two interesting monuments which still stand in the vestibule of the earlier and smaller temple. They are two chairs (Qpovot) of white marble, one on each side of the entrance to it. Now, we see inscribed on the plinth of the chair which is on the 4right of the door of the temple,

    s i n g l e authority of Pausan ias ( i . 33 . 2 . ) I t h a s therefore b e e n suspec ted . D i d the error arise from the c ircumstance , that Paros was not the n a t i v e country indeed of the s tatue, b u t was so of the supposed sculptor , A g o r a -c r i t u s ? T z e t z . Ch i l . V I I . 9 3 0 . beidias

    dyaXfjLaTtocras KaXXitTTa

  • 40 T W O T E M P L E S OF N E M E S I S . [ C H A P . V .

    N E M E I E I I f l Z T P A T O I A N E 0 H K E N

    To Nemesis Sostratus dedicates this.

    But it surely will not be contended that these chairs were dedicated in this temple after its destruc-tion. And what example can be found of a Greek inscription written in such characters as these, and belonging to an era antecedent to the battle of Mara-thon \ Its long vowels preclude that: this inscription is evidently later than even the ago of Pericles.

    The destruction therefore of the earlier temple could not have' taken place at the time supposed.

    Both these temples were dedicated to Nemesis. This is proved by the two inscriptions above cited. It must, I think, be granted that the former temple was in ruins before the latter was erected, on the grounds before stated. An Athenian temple would not have been demolished by Athenians. At what period, then, did foreigners possess the inclination and the power to destroy a temple in Attica? The range of time in which this period is to be sought is defined by two limits. The earlier limit is furnished by the probable date of the inscription on these chairs: the later by that to which, from its style, the second temple may be assigned. In looking between these two limits for an occasion in which such an event as the destruc-tion of the earlier temple might have taken place,

  • C H A P . V . ] S C E N E R Y O F R H A . U N U S . 41

    we are naturally attracted to the close of the Pelo-ponnesian war.

    It seems not improbable that the victorious anta-gonists of Athens wreaked their vengeance at that time on the public buildings of their vanquished rival. The long walls of Athens were not the sole sufferers. But the sacred buildings, it may be objected, would have been protected from their outrages by the respect for national religion which a Greek victor would feel. This is admitted. But a Greek victor was then leagued with a Persian ally 1. The Temple of Nemesis at Rhamnus was a signal monument of Persian igno-miny. It was a memorial of Athenian glory won from Persia on the field of Marathon. It would be re-garded by the Persian with the same exasperation with which a French soldier would behold the Belgian Lion on the field of Waterloo. The feeling of indig-nation would not be idle, when an occasion was given, such as we have supposed, for its exercise. Nemesis, I am inclined to think, suffered then from the exer-cise, in the hands of others, of her own functions. Such is our conjecture.

    W e leave the temples, and walk eastward down a narrow glen to the rocky peninsula on which trie town of Rhamnus stood. Its remains are consider-able. W e enter the western gate, flanked by towers, and follow the line of the southern wall toward the

    1 D e m o s t h c n . 197. 2 1 , eppijcrexe TOI> /3a

  • 42 SCENERY OF BHAMNUS. [CHAP. V.

    sea. This wall is well preserved; it is about twenty feet in height: the part of the town which borders on the sea is rendered very strong by its position on the edge of high perpendicular rocks. Though not large, it was thus well adapted to answer the purposes for which it was used, as one of the main maritime keys of Attica.

    The beauty of its site and natural features, en-hanced as it is by the interest attached to the spot, is the most striking characteristic of Rhamnus. Standing on this peninsular knoll, the site of the ancient city, among walls and towers grey with age, with the sea behind you, and Attica before, you look up a woody glen towards its termination in an elevated platform, where, as on a natural base-ment, the Temples stood, of which even the ruined walls, of white shining marble, now show so fairly to the eye through the veil of green shade that screens them.

    If Nicolas Poussin had ever left Italy to travel in Greece, and given himself to the delineation of Greek landscape, he would have chosen Rhamnus as one of the first scenes to exercise his pencil. He would then perhaps have introduced into this his landscape a person who was connected with this place, who derived his name from it, and was alike remarkable for his genius, his actions, and his misfortunes. Antipho the Rhamnusian would have been in his place here. And if the painter might have been allowed

  • CHAP. V . ] NAME OP KHAMNUS. 43

    further licence, he would perhaps have imagined as appearing at the verge of this glen and descending from it, the scholar of Antipho, the historian of the Peloponnesian war. But he must have left it to the spectators of his landscape, to imagine that Thucydides was then arriving from Athens, having crossed, as he would have done, the field of Marathon, to come and listen here, in such a scene as this, to the words of such a master.

    W e return toward the temple by the ridge above mentioned; it was fortified by walls parallel to itself both on the north and south. Their bearings it is not easy to explor, the whole surface being overgrown with a very thick prickly shrub, which prevents our progress. It at the same time suggests the reason for the ancient name by which the city was called. On this hill the propriety of the name of Paui>ovs is felt 1

    kv yap opet pafxvol re Kai dcnrakctOoi KO/JLOWVTI.

    For the sharp rhamnus mantles o'er the hills. 1 F r o m panvcis,ous. Compare the remark o f S c h o l . A r i s t o p h .

    P l u t . 680. on the s imi lar botanica l n a m e s of the A t t i c D e m i Mvppivovs,

    'Ayvovs, & c . to w h i c h m a y b e added "Joyous, 'Axpados, 'Ai/ayupous,

    and 'EXaioDs. T h e m o d e m n a m e of R h a m n u s is ' O / / u - K a o -Too , for 'E3puTo-K.crTpo, J e w s - C a s t l e . ( S e e K o r a y . A t a k t a , I. p . 55. Xyovv

    ' 0 / 3 / ? o s a'iT TOV 'EjSoaios, as x&pos, for xdps, c for C%O). T h e

    term 'Hpplo s eems to b e app l i ed to persons or th ings in a wander ing or

    desolate state. '0/3/3o vTjai is a desert i s land east o f Corinth : so oflpto iroT/xi. I n the same way the term r

  • C H A P T E R VI .

    M A R A T H O N .

    \IIIVTG

  • CHAP. VI.] MARSHES. 45

    In this level solitary place the eye is naturally arrested by one object, which raises itself above the surface of the plain more conspicuously than any thing else. That object is the Tumulus which covers the ashes of those Athenians who fell in the battle of Marathon. It produces a sensation of awe to find oneself alone with such an object as this. It was a wise design which buried these Athenians together under such a tomb in the place on which they fell.

    The plain is hemmed in near the sea by a marsh 1

    on each side. It was fortunate for Athens that the battle was not fought in the summer, but in the autumn; particularly if that autumn was a rainy one. Pressed in on both sides by these morasses, which then would have been inundated, the Per-sian force had not free scope to bring its vast numbers to bear. Here they were embarrassed by their own power: hence it was, that at these morasses the greatest slaughter of the Persians took place 2. Hence too these marshes themselves were honoured

    1 C a l l i m a c h . ap . S u i d . v . MapaOwv. C a l l i m a c h u s ca l led i t ivvoTiov

    Mapadufa . . . TovTeuri divypovK . . Scho l . P la t . p . 140. MapaQuv . .

    Tpaxvs dva-i'n-'iraa-TOS, 6ywv ev eavTw irr}\oi)st Tevdyi], \ipvai. ( S o m e

    o f these scho l ia ev ince a personal acquaintance w i th A t t i c t o p o g r a p h y :

    see p . 105. on Sid pea-ov TeTxs.) Herod , v i . 102 . s e e m s to speak in

    rather too unqual i f ied terms, w h e n h e ca l l s Marathon eTrmiSeuTaTov

    Xieplov ATTI/O7S evmireuarai. I t is s ingular that h e does not m e n -

    t ion the marshes o f M a r a t h o n . 2 P a u s a n . I . 32 . 7. \ip"'l e\

  • 46 BATTLE OF MARATHON. [CHAP. VI.

    with a place in the Athenian pictures of the battle of Marathon: while the figures of Minerva and Hercules were exhibited in the frescoes on the walls of the Pcecile at Athens in the front of the fight1, the water of these marshes was seen gleaming in the back-ground of the picture.

    The time of the day, as well as of the year in which the battle was fought, deserves notice. It is mentioned incidentallyand the expression seems to be one of traditional gratitude, that the crisis of the victory was in the evening,

    a \ \ ofxuis a

  • CHAP. VI.] MARATHONIAN TETRAPOLIS. 47

    The ancient topography of the plain has been very clearly illustrated. The northern marsh 3 (Apa-Kovepa) is fed mainly by a source anciently called Macaria, from the daughter of 4 Hercules, who devoted herself to death in behalf of the Heracleidse, before the victory which they gained over the Argive Eury-stheus on this plain. Near this fountain was the :' marshy village of Tricorythus, one of the members of the Marathonian tetrapolis. It seems to have stood on the forked hills above the hamlet of Kato-Suli. It was probably so called from the triple peak 0 on which its citadel was built.

    Skirting westward the inland margin of the plain from its N . W . angle, under the mountain of Stauro-koraki, we come to a stream which flows from a valley on our right: on its right bank are two Albanian villages; on its left, rather higher up, is the modern hamlet of Marathdna. This is probably the site of the ancient village of Marathon. The coincidence of the name is a strong argument. There is also a hill

    3 F r o m its s ize and cop iousness considered as a prodigy b y the

    n e i g h b o u r i n g inhabi tants , and therefore ca l led ApaKovepd. Apdxo is in

    R o m a i c a c o m m o n express ion for any m a r v e l l o u s object . 4 Strabo v n i . p . 377. H e r c u l e s was the hero of Marathon . T h e

    fountain was t h u s the daughter of the p l a i n : and the m y t h o l o g i c a l

    story o f M a c a r i a probably m e a n s n o t h i n g more than that th is flowing

    stream rendered a s imi lar service in ba t t l e to the Heracleidas, w h i c h t h e

    marshes d id subsequent ly to the A t h e n i a n s in the e n g a g e m e n t w i th the

    Pers ians . 5 H e n c e Ar i s toph . L y s . 1032. ep.wis tpiKopvo-ia. 6 T h e term Kopvdos ( from Kopvs a crest) is preserved in the L a t i n

    Corythus , ( the o ld n a m e of C o r t o n a ) : i t i s mere ly another form of Kopw-

    flos, w h i c h c i ty Cortona resembles in its lof ty p e a k e d acropol is .

  • 48 MARATHON I AN TETRAPOLIS. [CHAP. VI.

    above it, part of Staurokoriiki, which on the spot I hear called At'jXi; and which suggests a question whether it does not preserve a record of the 'Temple at Marathon, called AqXiov, at which sacrifices were offered, before sacred processions embarked for the island of Delos. Further up the same valley is CEnoe, still known by its ancient name.

    Returning down the valley, and following the roots of the hills, Kotrdni and 2ArgaKki, the former of which is the southern boundary of the valley of Ma-rathdna, the latter of the plain of Marathon, we end our circuit at the south-east angle of the plain.

    This marsh is now called fiaATos* and ftpefytri', terms both indicative of the humidity of the soil. A herdsman here informs us, that the water of the marsh is salt at its eastern extremity, and that salt-water fish come up the stream there in the winter: the upper bank of it affords pasturage for his own cattle, ^ausanias heard nearly the same account of it when he was here.

    Probalinthus, the fourth village of the Maratho-nian tetrapolis, was in this immediate neighbourhood.

    1 Schol . Soph . ( E d . Col. 1047. E l m s l . 2 W h i c h is the mounta in of HapaiXeuts: opos ev Mapatiuwi ?

    ( H e s y c h . ) 3 From aXs, as /3

  • CHAP. VI.] M A R ATHONIA X TETR A PO LIS. 49

    It is the first of the four mentioned by Strabo in his voyage northward. It is also in a different tribe from the other three; and that tribe seems to have originally comprised a district to the south of Marathon. Much stress cannot indeed be laid on this circumstance ; but perhaps more topographical 5 inferences might be drawn from the arrangement of the Demi in their respective tribes than have yet been attempted.

    OCT. 13. The husband of our Albanian hostess at Zephiri,

    where we pass the night, was carried off a few nights ago by the klefts into the mountains, and they now demand for his ransom a thousand Turkish piastres, which are to be paid within a stated number of days. Such is now the state to which the inhabitants of the Marathonian plain are reduced. It is impossible, without incurring great risk, to pass over Mount Pen

    6 P r o b a l i n t h u s i s a Sijuos of the P a n d i o n i s \ > | : in w h i c h were M y r r h i n u s , Prasiee, Steiria, al l l oca l ly near to , and south of P r o b a l i n t h u s : M a r a t h o n , t E n o e and Tricorythus are al l in the tribe j E a n t i s , w h i c h conta ined also R h a m n u s , A p h i d n s e , Perrhidae, Titae idse , and Psaphidae, a l l in the s a m e and more northern district . O n the orig inal classif ication o f the d e m i , from local considerat ions , see the Disser ta t ion in V o l . r. p . 652, of D r A r n o l d ' s T h u c y d i d e s . V a l c k . H e r o d , n r . 53 . Siebe l . P a u s . I. l , 3 . M r T h i r l w a l l ' s Greece , n . p p . 74 , 392 . D e m i were s u b s e q u e n t l y removed from one tribe into another. Harpocrat . v. evpymvlSai. N i e b u h r , R . H . I . p . 407. Mii l l er ( A r t . A t t i k a in E r s c h . and Gruber E n c y c l . p . 2 2 7 ) , observes , " D a n u n die K l e i s t h e n i s c h e n P h y l e n chorographisch waren, w i e in Griechen land eben auch die E l e i s c h e n ( P a u s a n . 5, 9.) die E p h e s i s c h e n ( S t e p h . pivva) die der L a c o n i schen Per ioken , ( O r c h o m e n o s p . 314) so m u s s e n die D e m e n einer P h y l e wie Ortschaften eines Kreises z u s a m m e n g e l e g e n h a b e n . "

    D

  • 50 ARRIVAL AT ATHENS. [CHAP. vr.

    telicns by the usual road from Marathon, to Athens. On this account, after visiting the plain a second time this morning, we proceed along the lower grounds, near the sea. This is said to be the 'safer road.

    Our way lies along a plain covered with arbutus, pines, and lentisk. W e pass a stream, and arrive at the village- of Epikerata, in about an hour, from Marathon. Further on is the village of Kpafiara, where, in the church of the Madonna (Jlavayla), are some sepulchral inscriptions:

    N I K f l N T E H N O I T A P r H T T I O Z

    Nicon the Son of Teon, of Gargettus.

    T E I 2 N N I K f t N O Z r A P T H T T I O Z

    A N O I T P A T O I

    These are the only villages on the road. After a ride of eight hours and a half, we arrive in the dark at the eastern gate of Athens.

    1 A Greek w h o left Marathon the s a m e m o r n i n g as w e d i d , but

    crossed M o u n t P e n t e l i c u s , was s topped b y the klefts and p lundered , as

    he informed u s h i m s e l f the morn ing after our arrival at A t h e n s .

  • Jr.i . Waiter 7/ John /n/f/ *Jiht4Htar Sinti .Time l'i. JA'Ui.

  • C H A P T E R VII . ATHENS,

    '1' FJT AGIINAI 0 2 2 41 nPIN 012. I N S C R I P T I O N O N H A D R I A N ' S G A T E A T A T H E N S .

    This ATHENS is the antique town of Theseus.

    T H E town of Athens is now lying in ruins. The streets are almost deserted: nearly all the houses are without roofs. The churches are reduced to bare walls and heaps of stones and mort