Wine Regions multi2, Wine & Jazz, Vint. 2 Trk 4, Melissa Chavez

n Napa Valley, winery and tasting room structural designs vary tremendously, from sleekly blueprinted lines of glass and metal … to rustic 13th century-era

fortresses. Here, we o� er a selection of winery structures and tasting rooms to investigate, from historically rustic to sophisticated versions of a grownup’s erector set. Fun is the goal and we provide several recommendations from which to choose. Whether visiting one or all, we promise your experience will be unforgettable.

The estate at Artesa Vineyards & Winery in Napa Valley is nothing short of visionary. Inside its winemaking facility, vintner Mark Beringer operates in a space that honors the grape as much as his visitors. The winery structure itself is a clever depiction of simplicity. Cleanly integrated into a hillside, it is a seamless blend of glass, metal, wood and water. In addition, Artesa’s resident artist Gordon Huether has designed a staircase bordered by waterfalls, spectacular contemporary sculptures, a fountain and serene re� ecting pool. Rather than detract, the application of these cleanly designed elements underscores the landscape’s natural beauty.

Artesa harvests its fruit from three distinct microclimates. In Carneros, delicate pinot and chardonnay grapes � ourish under the in� uence of San Pablo Bay, while Bordeaux varietals cultivate well throughout more temperate conditions in Alexander Valley. Fifteen hundred feet above the fog, however, cabernet sauvignon develops a survivalist’s character in Napa’s volcanic soils of the Atlas Peak sub-region. The stunning wines combined with Artesa’s ingenious environs make for an exceptional tasting experience.

Dominus Estate, owned by Christian Moueix, sources its Bordeaux grape varietals from 108-acres of gravelly volcanic, clay and loam soil in the historical Napanook Vineyard. The winery operation and o� ces are contained in a high, linear gabion structure, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning

I

Artesa Vineyard & Winery in NapaPHOTO: Jim Gateley

Napa Valley

Castello di Amorosa, Calistoga PHOTO: Jim Gateley

EXPLORING WINE COUNTRY

beyond the wine: Winery Architecture

and Unique Tasting Room Experiences

Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, that virtually melts into the scenery. At a distance, the walls appear to be made of stone-embedded concrete but, in reality, a network of thick wire mesh safely corrals a massive collection of basalt rocks. Not only do Dominus grapes grow in this medium, it houses their wines, too. More than an unlikely conversation piece, the imaginatively con� gured winemaking facility o� ers excellent aeration and climate control, keeping diurnal temperature swings at bay.

Near Calistoga, Sterling Vineyards has a look all its own. Completed in 1972, the outlines of this white structure remain clean and modern, yet resonant of ancient in� uences from Grecian Mykonos Island. On each quarter hour, bells that once graced the centuries-old Church of St. Dunstans-in-the East in London chime from its massive hillside perch overlookng the landscape. A short but scenic tram ride from the valley � oor transports visitors to a unique self-guided wine tour experience.

Inside, there are galleries for perusing, overlooks for viewing the entire winemaking process at one’s own preferred pace, and motion-sensory � at-screen televisions to provide information on command. For those wishing to linger, a massive � eldstone � replace in the tasting room is perfect for cozying up and enjoying any of Sterling’s family of wines. The Sterling View Terrace faces southward, providing vineyard views as far as the town of Yountville, beyond. Even more breathtaking are the sights from the winery’s aerial trams, revealing dramatic panoramas of the surrounding Mayacamas and Vaca mountains.

On the medieval end of the architectural spectrum in Calistoga is Castello di Amorosa. This authentically designed 13th-century Tuscan structure, built by Darryl Sattui, is sited on three hillside acres and boasts 107 uniquely conceived rooms to visit. Not only are there towers, a grand barrel boom and numerous wine cellars to house their vintages, intrepid visitors may discover impromptu adventures in the lower digs, where Castello di Amorosa’s dungeon and in-house

torture chamber await potentially extended stays. The ninety-minute guided tours of the castle are popular so reservations are highly encouraged. Barrel tastes are available along with current releases of their Italian-style wines. Belgian chocolate wine pairings are a favorite. There’s even a horse-drawn vineyard tour available. Alternatively, visitors can choose to repent for any excessive vinous indulgences at an authentic Latin Mass, held every Sunday morning in the Saint Catherine of Siena Chapel.

In Rutherford, Rubicon Estate is entrenched in pioneer winemaking history. Established in 1880, Finland-born Gustave Niebaum heavily invested his Alaskan fur trade earnings in Napa Valley. He founded his successful Inglenook winery before bestowing the estate to his grandnephew during Prohibition.

In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola’s search for a summer home and basement winery became a commitment to ful� ll Niebaum’s legacy when he purchased Inglenook’s 78-acre vineyard, along with 124-acres of farmland. Sharing similarities in immigrant history, the � lm director-turned-vintner bought the rest of the former estate twenty years later. In traditional Italian fashion, he renamed it Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon Estate Winery.

The massive, vine-covered domain features stone-embedded walls, fanned plaster ceilings, a grand staircase leading to an intricately stained glass window, and outdoor fountain and pools. Along with the purchase of the Inglenook chateau were the surrounding vineyards, including Martha’s Vineyard (Heitz Wine Cellars) and Beaulieu Vineyard (Georges de Latour). Now reuni� ed, the property is known more simply as Rubicon Estate.

Large casks at Rubicon Estate in Rutherford

PHOTO: Helder Rubeiro

IN A REGION WITH A PENCHANT FOR THE IMAGINATIVE,

THE NAPA VALLEY HAS BECOME THE LOCALE FOR TRANSFORMING WINE

TASTING INTO AN ALL-ENCOMPASSING EXPERIENCE.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 50

Sterling Vineyards in CalistogaPHOTO © Nick Elias

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Celebrating Wine and Jazz

Calistoga innOpen mic, jazz on the patio,

dancing in the pub.

Calistoga: 707.942.4101

CalistogaInn.com

Mustard, Mud & Music 2011

Live jazz by cool cats and crazy combos

in venues throughout Calistoga.

March 5-6, 2011 from 12-5 pm

Calistoga: 707.942.6333

CalistogaVisitors.com

Oxbow Public MarketScrumptious riverfront dining, take-out

picnic provisions, plus live music by

top-name artists (Fridays) and local

favorites (Tuesdays).

Napa: 707.226.6529

OxbowMarket.com

Silo’s Jazz ClubNapa’s favorite spot for jazz. Dinner and

live music weekly, Thurs - Sat evenings.

Napa: 707.251.5833

SilosJazzClub.com

WinerieS WOrtH eXPlOring

Chateau MontelenaCastle-like winery with lake, bridge and

pagoda. Immortalized in 1976 when

its chardonnay surpassed the French

at the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting,

dramatized in the film“Bottle Shock.”

Calistoga: 707.942.5105

Montelena.com

Hall WineryFirst LEED Gold-certified California winery

to utilize sustainable farming practices.

St. Helena: 707.967.2626

HallWines.com

Swanson VineyardsWhimsically decorated Rococo-

meets-Crayola salon offers three

seated tastings daily.

Oakville: 707.754.4018

SwansonVineyards.com

V. Sattui WineryFounded in 1885 by Vittorio Sattui.

Two-story, stone winery on a 230-acre

estate. Marketplace offers Italian pastas,

paninis, desserts, international cheeses.

St. Helena: 707.963.7774

VSattui.com

lOCal Jazz MUSiCianS

dena deroseEffortless, smooth-as-butter jazz vocals

with ShirleyHorn stylings.

DenaDeRose.com

Swing 7Classic swing of ’30s and ’40s, Latin, R&B,

light jazz, Dixieland.

Calistoga: 707.963.2069

Swing7.com

twice as good bluesFather and son duo performs

high-energy blues, soul, rock.

TwiceAsGood.org

aCtiVitieS and eVentS

artisan Wine toursEnjoy customized luxury tours

throughout Napa Valley.

Sonoma: 877.414.2021

ArtisanWineTours.com

“Santa train” by napa Valley Wine train

Kid-friendly, ninety-minute, antique

train ride, Napa to Yountville,

round-trip. Reserve early.

December 13-24, 2010 at 9 am

Napa: 800.427.4124

WineTrain.com

taste of beringer tourHour-long tours, year-round, with

demonstration vineyard, Old Stone Winery,

wine-aging tunnels, and wine tasting.

St. Helena: 707.963.8989, ext. 2222

(reservations)Beringer.com

lOdging

the inn on FirstSan Francisco-style B&B, Cordon Bleu-

trained chef, dog-friendly accommodations.

Napa: 866.253.1331

TheInnOnFirst.com

la belle epoqueQueen Anne Victorian inn. Stained

glass accents, shaded garden and patio.

Signature breakfasts. Wine cellar

evening gatherings.

Napa: 707.257.2161 / 800.238.8070

LaBelleEpoque.com

Old World inn bed & breakfastFamily-style inn with featherbeds,

fireplaces, and gourmet breakfasts.

Walk to wineries, restaurants, shopping,

Napa Wine Train.

Napa: 707.0112OldWorldInn.com

reStaUrantS

buster’s Southern bbQ & bakery

Warning: Vegetarians may fall off the

wagon here! Roadside pit-fired eatery

features Southern barbecue and sweet

potato pie.

Calistoga: 707.942.5605

BustersSouthernBBQ.com

Morimoto napaMorimoto’s sizzling waygu beef

carpaccio, spicy tuna maki, and chirashi

sushi win raves at this upscale restaurant.

Napa: 707.252.1600

MorimotoNapa.com

Pearl restaurantLocal favorites include raw oysters on the

half-shell and fish tacos.

Napa: 707.2224.9161

TheRestaurantPearl.com

inFOrMatiOn

the napa Valley destination Council

Vacation package offers activities,

lodging, restaurant, and events

information.

Napa: 707.226.5813

LegendaryNapaValley.com

napa Valley Vintners association

Not-for-profit trade association

St. Helena: 707.963.3388

NapaVintners.com

Our Napa Valley Picks

Beringer Vineyards’

historic carved casks

PHOTO: Jim Gateley

La Belle Epoque, a boutique inn

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Buster’s Southern BBQ & Bakery in calistoga

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rasping “a sense of place” from the contents of a wine bottle is great for practiced palates, but even wine neophytes can say, with con� dence, that the environment in which the wine is tasted has plenty of in� uence, too. Next time you visit Sonoma County, why

not test-drive this theory at a full spectrum of remarkable wine tasting venues?From huge wine caves that host lavish dinners, to medieval-inspired

stone fortresses, diverse winery architecture runs the gamut in Sonoma County. Among them, popular Buena Vista Winery is California’s oldest winery, a far cry from the little-known Quivira Vineyards where green technology is embraced nearly 300 solar panels strong. Other operations with past-lives include Hop Kiln Winery, which stashed harvests of hops for beer-making before defecting to wine. Here, we take focus on several Sonoma County wineries with interesting architecture and tasting rooms worthy of your consideration.

Founded in 1904, Kunde Estate Winery o� ers a complete wine tasting experience on their vast, four-generation property in the Valley of the Moon. At 17,000-square-feet, the two-story winery is a loyal replica of the original Kinneybrook Ranch cattle barn. Everyone enjoys sipping wine near the fountains and re� ecting pool, but for those who desire a more private and “upscale” educational wine experience, that too may be arranged on the comfort of leather sofas. For those who really need to get away from it all, there’s even a VIP room located a whopping 175-feet beneath their syrah vineyards. Other options include pond-side picnicking and guided wine cave tours. Private parties may arrange for mountain top tastings with gorgeous views of Sonoma Valley and the San Francisco Bay, beyond.

Ledson Winery & Vineyards in KenwoodPHOTO: Jon Parisi

Stylist fountain at Ferrari-Carano

Sonoma County

G

Winery Architecture and Unique Tasting Room

Experiences

BY MELISSA CHAVEZ




At Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, you’ll find design elements borrowed from medieval European monasteries and the Jacuzzi family’s former Italian home, the perfect backdrop for their Italian varietal wines. Here, the high stone-in-stucco walls incorporate arches over expansive windows and doorways. Mission-style corridors, wood-plank shutters with wrought iron hardware, wood beam ceilings, marble sculptures, stained glass, and Venetian-style glass chandeliers grace the interior. The entire structure surrounds an oblong, stone-paved courtyard where a gnarled tree and St. Francis sculpture stand solitary in the center. A huge barrel room serves as a grand gathering place for special celebrations, while a three-story tower keeps watch of San Pablo Bay and vistas beyond.

At some winery locations, the emphasis is on the land as much the tasting room. This is the case at Benziger Family Winery, where trees shade the grounds and picnic areas and visitors can take a tram tour of the property.

Proprietor Mike Benziger is big on “holistic farming” that achieves quality harvests using sustainable, organic, or biodynamic methods. On the 85-acre family ranch, they cultivate 29 different vineyard blocks. Over one-third of the parcel is devoted to wetlands with water recycling ponds, woodlands, gardens and three wildlife sanctuaries (“insectories”) cultivated with fifty types of plant species to attract birds and beneficial insects. Among the fifty growers from whom they source fruit, there is

an onus to cultivate their vines to not only draw the most distinctive flavors from the grape, but to be good stewards of the land, as well.

A cattle rancher at age nine with nearly 60-head of cattle, Sonoma Valley-born entrepreneur Steve Ledson was a partner in a construction business by the time he was 21-years-old. By midlife, he turned his attention to a personal project near Kenwood when construction began on the grounds of his 17-acre vineyard, the current site of Ledson

Winery & Vineyards. Initially begun as the family home, it’s fair to say that calling this large, neo-Gothic castle with turrets standing four stories tall “imposing” is a considerable understatement. But love it or hate it, it’s not just a showplace. Ledson firmly believes that ninety percent of wine quality is derived from the vineyard, so the winery itself should take a back seat.

Now the tasting room pendulum takes a wide swing to one of the newest wine visitor experiences: the minimalist Williams-Selyem in Healdsburg. Designed by Italian architect Alessandro Belli, the organic design elements include a “green roof ” of native grasses, the repurposing of old redwood fermentation tanks, and solar panels on the roofs—everything in keeping with the winery’s sustainable philosophy. The front exterior of the building is an arching barrel wall with large windows that provide dramatic views of the Russian River Valley. Visitors find themselves inside a glass and metal atrium area that looks up into the barrel vault, one of many elements of the design meant to represent the vernacular of wine. William-Selyem’s philosophy of purchasing only the very best grapes from a variety of sources, and later adding fruit from their estate vineyards, has served them well over the years. Recently, Wine Enthusiast magazine rated 17 of the winery’s 2007 wines at 90 points or higher, with the pinot noir from Litton Estate garnering the ultimate 100 point score. Perfection in both wine and architecture … not bad for a brand started by a couple of friends inside a garage.

We hope you enjoy discovering these unusual locations the next time you come to spectacular Sonoma County wine country, along with a few remarkable “finds” of your own.

Williams Selyem in Healdsburg

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

in Sonoma

From Huge Wine caVeS tHat HoSt laViSH dinnerS to medieVal-inSpired Stone

FortreSSeS, diVerSe Winery arcHitecture runS tHe gamut in Sonoma county.

continued on page 54

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21st annual Savor Sonoma Valley

Over 20 wineries offer barrel tastes, food

pairings, art, and live music.

March 19-20, 11 am - 4 pm

Glen Ellen: 866.794.9463

HeartOfSonomaValley.com

affrontiJazz, vocal and acoustic music on

Thursday nights; Sunday jazz brunch;

first Wednesday winemaker dinners.

Healdsburg: 707.431.1113

AffrontiHealdsburg.com

Wells Fargo Center for the arts

December concerts: Natalie Cole, Dave

Koz & Friends, Bela Fleck & the Flectones.

Santa Rosa: 707.546.3600

WellsFargoCenterArts.org

WinerieS WOrtH eXPlOring

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards

and WineryGrand Mediterranean-style villa with

gorgeous gardens and views.


Ferrari-Carano.com

imagery WineryWine meets art. Taste the wines and

admire the retrospective display of years

of commissioned wine label art in an

unstuffy tasting room gallery.

Glen Ellen: 707.935.4515, 877.550.4278

ImageryWinery.com

Matanzas Creek WineryFine wines and lush lavender gardens.

Santa Rosa: 800.590.6464, 707.528.6464

MatanzasCreek.com


Mike greensillJazz pianist.

MikeGreensill.com

greg HesterSolo jazz piano and jazz combo gigs.

GregHesterJazz.com


Holiday in CarnerosEnjoy special offerings at an array

of Carneros wineries.

November 20-21 10 am - 4 pm

Tickets: 800.366.2806

CarnerosWineries.org

Four nights of Festive Fun

Quirky Cotati celebrates with tree

lighting, holiday cheer in the pubs,

candlelight concert.

December 1-3Cotati.org

19th annual Winter Wineland

Visit 120 wineries in northern Sonoma

County’s Alexander, Russian River,

and Dry Creek Valleys.

January 15-16 10 am - 4 pm


33rd annual barrel tasting

Open house event takes you to more

than 100 wineries in Dry Creek Valley,

Alexander Valley, and Russian River Valley.

March 4-6 & March 11-13, 11 am - 4 pm

WineRoad.com

Playpus toursPrivate or join-in day-long wine

country tours.

Napa/Sonoma: 707.253.2723

PlaypusTours.com

lOdging

the Fairmont Sonoma Mission inn & SpaHistoric four-star resort with

luxurious spa services.

Boyes Hot Springs: 800.551.2409

Fairmont.com/Sonoma

glenelly inn & Cottages

Cozy fireplace cottages;

family-friendly suites available.

Glen Ellen: 707.996.6720

GlenElly.com

Old Crocker innQuiet country B&B retreat, well off the

beaten track.

Cloverdale: 707.894.4000

OldCrockerInn.com

reStaUrantS

Café laHayeThis intimate spot proves that big things

do come in small packages.

Sonoma: 707. 935.5994

CafeLaHaye.com

the girl and the FigCozy lounge and bar meet country food

with a French passion. A locals’ favorite.

Sonoma: 707.938.3634

TheGirlAndTheFig.com

Omelette expressGreat breakfast spot in fun and historic

Railroad Square.

Santa Rosa: 707.525.1690

Starlight Wine bar restaurant

Authentic train car dining offers comfort

food with a nod to the homespun Big Easy.

Sebastopol: 707.823.1943

StarlightWineBar.com

Sunflower CafféBreakfast served all day at this small café

with a pretty outdoor patio.

Sonoma: 707.996.6645

Syrah bistroSerious foodie territory, courtesy of

chef Josh Silvers’ improv flair.

Santa Rosa: 707.568.4002

SyrahBistro.com

inFOrMatiOn

Healdsburg Visitors bureau


Healdsburg.com

Sonoma Valley Visitor’s bureau

Sonoma: 866.996.1090

SonomaValley.com

Our Sonoma County Picks

The Fairmont Sonoma Mission

Inn & Spa Golf CourseAnnual Savor Sonoma Valley Barrel Tasting

ConTInued FroM pAGe 53

Matanzas Creek Winery

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Rustic wine trail signage© Peter Tellone - Photographer

BACKGROUND PHOTO: “Fire on the Mountain” Sunset over Danza del Sol Winery. © Peter Tellone - Photographer

nlike the more elaborate wineries located on Temecula’s Rancho California Road—where some even o� er lodging, restaurants, and event grounds—the De Portola

Wine Trail features more boutique-scale wineries sharing common denominators of attention-getting wines, microclimatic in� uences of the distinctive Rainbow Gap, and breathtaking surrounds in which to sample some of Temecula’s � nest vinous o� erings.

Set your GPS for Cougar Vineyard & Winery to enjoy hand-crafted Italian varietals. Aglianico, vermentino, sagrantino, and montepulciano (just to name a few “O” wines!) will quickly put your phonetic skills to the test. Sound high falutin’? It’s not. Visitors seem to enjoy Cougar’s sta� as much as their wines. To help ensure quality, a sobering motto o� ers consequential motivation: “You can’t make good wine from bad grapes, but you can make bad wine from good grapes.” Cougar is also the kind of place where blankets are welcome under shady olive trees, deli supplies are available for purchase, and there’s even weekend music to make complete those impromptu wine tasting dates.

The new kid on the trail is Danza del Sol Winery, a 35-acre estate winery that opened its doors just last February. Behind its fresh-scrubbed exterior is Dr. William Filsinger’s 30-year winemaking investment in the winery coupled with owner Robert Olsen’s love for wine and winemaker/manager Mike Tingley, who likewise brings three decades of Temecula Valley wine experience. Along with red and white wines, they o� er champagne in the work-intensive style of méthode champenoise. The freshly remodeled Danza del Sol tasting room provides a large patio with Temecula Valley vistas for sipping and relaxing, and it’s dog and equestrian-friendly, too.

U

THE DE PORTOLA WINE TRAIL

Temecula ValleyBY MELISSA CHAVEZ

Frangipani Estate Winery produces about 4,000 cases of wine annually from their Temecula Valley location. The Spanish Villa-style homestead is within view of the estate’s olive trees, foothills, neighborhood equestrian farms, and vineyards. Don Frangipani wears two hats as owner and winemaker. When possible, he frees himself from the vineyard long enough to pour estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, petite syrah, cabernet franc, and late harvest zinfandel from 30-year-old vines. With a phone call, country barbecues and equestrian events are welcome at their place.

Gershon Bachus is a by-appointment-only, two-story hillside villa offering limited edition white and red wines on some Saturdays and Sundays. Mike Tingley, who developed several Tuscan-themed vintages, has been part of the team since their first planting. Joe Vizcaino serves as tasting room director and apprentice winemaker, while Cordon Bleu-trained chef Adrian Halmagean prepares meals onsite for the estate’s weddings and large corporate group events

in its 3,500-square-foot reception room. There’s even a guess-the-varietals and percentages contest through January 3 that yields the victor a case of wine to benefit the American Cancer Society, Gershon Bachus’s favorite charity.

Founded in 1989 by Carl Key, Keyways Vineyard & Winery is one of Temecula’s first wineries. Subsequent acquisition by Teri Pebley Delhamer also makes Keyways the only woman-owned winery in Southern California. Along with red and white wines, winemaker David Raffaele creates dessert and specialty wines, like Krystal ice wine. A favorite scenic wedding spot, the remodeled estate features a rustic, country lodge-inspired tasting room with wood-beamed ceilings, plaster walls, and a communal fireplace. Pizza dinners and Keyways wines are popular on weekends, but the tasting room piano comes alive with weekly live entertainment.

Leonesse Cellars, established by vintners Mike Rennie and Gary Winde, sits on twenty acres. Joel Reese, Hosting and Tour Director, provides visitors guided tastings, wine tours and wine and artisan cheese pairings. Refreshing pinot grigio is fermented in stainless steel tanks and chardonnay is aged in 100% French oak. Other wines include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cinsaut port, dry muscat canelli, roussanne, syrah and a white merlot. They also feature a 2006 Meritage, two white Rhône blends, plus two dessert wines—cinsaut and late harvest muscat canelli.

Among Temecula’s newest wineries, Masia de Yabar Winery (“manor house”) offers a surprisingly broad spectrum of wines —from Bordeaux and Rhône varietals to muscat canelli and zinfandel. The Peruvian-Spanish ancestry of the winery inspired this large estate’s expansive courtyard dotted with palms and equestrian-

themed fountain. On weekend afternoons, Latin music by Diego Mondragon pairs sweetly with Masia de Yabar’s food-friendly tempranillo and the winery’s inspiring vistas.

While cooking instruction videos can be viewed for free on their winery website, there’s a lot going on at Stephen and Valerie Andrews’ Oak Mountain Winery, a five-year-old, ten-acre estate. Their Rhône varietals grow at an altitude of 2,800 feet, but once vented they are aged in a cellar cave below ground. There’s a new tasting room in the works, but already their large pavilion, gazebo, and catering services make the location ideal for weddings and special events.

The spirit of Fano, Italy came to Temecula when Federico Renzoni immigrated here in 1912. Today, great-great grandson Robert Renzoni keeps that spirit alive in the wines of Robert Renzoni Vineyards. Robert Renzoni began winemaking in 2004, when the family purchased their hilly, 12-acre Temecula vineyard property to fulfill his vision of making award-winning Italian varietal wines. Soon, a large stone villa will provide a luxurious backdrop for Robert Renzoni’s wines … and maybe even a few stories told by the proprietor himself.

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Just over an hour southeast of Los angeLes is temecuLa, where more than 30 wineries operate in a region covering

approximateLy 35,000 acres hosting vineyards, hiLLs and horses. the quaLity of the wines of temecuLa is proof

positive that their irrigated vines thrive in the granite-rich soiLs of this unique ava.

moonrise over the vineyard at Leonesse cellars © Peter Tellone - Photographer

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Cougar Vineyard & Winery

Italian varietal wines. Tuscan-style tasting

room and deli. Live music from 2-5 on

weekends.

Temecula: 951.491.0825

CougarVineyards.com

Jazz at the MercEnjoy live jazz and optimal acoustics on

Thursday nights in the beautifully restored

Mercantile building. Shows start at 7:30 pm.

Temecula: 866.653.8696

TemeculaTheater.org

Keyways Vineyard & Winery

Wine Down Fridays, MoKeyto Saturdays,

and Sangria Serenade Sundays.

Temecula: 877.keyways

KeywaysWine.com

Masia de Yabar WineryTasting Room offers live music with

Diego Mondragon on weekends.

Temecula: 951.303.3860

MasiaDeYabarWinery.com

Oak Mountain WineryTasting room, Bordeaux varietal wines,

live music on weekends from 1-5 pm.

Temecula: 951.699.9102

OakMountainWinery.com

WinerieS

danza del Sol WineryExpansive patio with beautiful views;

dog and equestrian-friendly.

Temecula: 951.302.6363

DanzadelSolWinery.com

Frangipani estate Winery

Specializing in red wines. Patio overlooks

30-year-old zinfandel vines; bocce lawn

and picnic area.

Temecula: 951.699.8845

FrangipaniWinery.com

gershon bachus Vintners

Wine tasting by appointment.

Limited production wines, spectacular

360-degree views.

Temecula: 877.458.8428

GershonBachus.com

leonesse CellarsHosted tastings and tours explore

the winemaking process.

Temecula: 951.302.7601

LeonesseCellars.com

robert renzoni Vineyards

Tasting room pours Bordeaux and

Italian varietal wines; picnic grounds

amid sweeping family vineyards.

Temecula: 951.302.8466

RobertRenzoniVineyards.com


Michael PauloContemporary jazz saxophonist.

MichaelPaulo.net

Jason WeberSmooth jazz saxophonist.

JasonWeber.net

darryl WilliamsBassist, songwriter, and producer.

DarrylWilliamsMusic.com


California dreamin’ balloon

and bi-Plane adventures

Float over Temecula’s wine country at

sunrise or sunset while sipping champagne.

Temecula: 800.373.3359

CaliforniaDreamin.com

the grapeline Wine Country Shuttle

A fleet of deluxe shuttles with friendly

hosts and thoughtfully arranged itineraries.

Temecula: 888.894.6379

GoGrape.com

Harvest Celebration barrel

tasting WeekendSelf-guided tour of 30 Temecula Valley

wineries, with food and wine samplings

at each location. Hosted by Temecula

Valley Winegrowers Association.

November 6-7, 2010 and March 5-6, 2011

Temecula: 800.801.9463.

TemeculaWines.org

Spring rod runAnnual event offers classic cars, Friday

Night Cruise, Saturday Show & Shine,

food, music, and vendors.

March 11-12, 2011

RodRunTemecula.com

lOdging

loma Vista bed & breakfast

Wine-themed guest rooms, secluded

hot tub, hearty breakfast.

Temecula: 877.676.7047

LomaVistaBB.com

temecula Creek innSpacious guest rooms, 27-hole

championship golf course, extensive

conference facilities.

Temecula: 877.517.1823

TemeculaCreekInn.com

reStaUrantS

Francesca’s italian Kitchen

Authentic Italian favorites.

Temecula: 951.303.3300

FrancescasItalianKitchen.com

gourmet italiaItalian cuisine, vast wine list, live

music Friday-Sunday.

Temecula: 951.676.9194

GourmetItaliaRestaurants.com

Vail ranch Steak HousePrime steaks, fresh seafood and chops.

Temecula: 951.694.1475

VailRanchSteakHouse.com

inFOrMatiOn

City of temeculaTemecula: 951.694.6444 or 800.Temecula

CityOfTemecula.org

temecula Valley Winegrowers association

Temecula: 800.801.9463

TemeculaWines.org

Our Temecula Valley Picks

Robert Renzoni Vineyards features an Italian-style wine portfolio.PHOTO: RK Green Studios

Cougar Winery wood cat

PHOTO: Miheco

Loma Vista

Bed and Breakfast

COnTInued fROM PaGe 59w

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BACKGROUND PHOTO: Bethel Heights Vineyards by Frank Barnett Photography

O ver thousands of years, repeated � ooding enabled the area now known as Oregon’s Willamette Valley to become agriculturally loaded with silty, volcanic-based loam that drenched and settled

throughout the area over time. Today, its landscape is a veritable collage of fruit orchards, crops, meadowlands, Christmas tree farms, and nursery stock.

The largest and oldest wine appellation in the state is Willamette Valley, stretching some 150 miles long and running 20 to 60 miles wide between the Coast Range to the west and the more formidable Cascade Range to the east. These features help permit the valley to experience a mild and rainy climate from fall through spring, while warming gently to become arid by summer. For pinot noir grapes, this creates harvest opportunities of exceptional quality.

Overall, more than 250 wineries are based in the Willamette Valley, the majority densely concentrated in the northern half, within shouting distance of Portland. Their vineyards are planted mainly with pinot noir vines, followed by pinot gris, chardonnay, merlot, and riesling. Each of the Valley’s six sub-appellations, Chehalem Mountains, Yamhill-Carlton District, Ribbon Ridge, Dundee Hills, McMinnville and the Eola-Amity Hills District, earned an AVA designation for its unique terroir while an East Willamette Valley region, though not an o� cial AVA, o� ers 16 more wineries across a less-traveled and more rustic landscape.

The Chehalem Mountains AVA, and sister sub-region, Ribbon Ridge, stretch over three counties. Tectonic uplifting characterizing their soils. Cool grape varietals, namely pinot noir and riesling, thrive in this diverse topography. Notable locations within the region are Parrett Mountain and, the highest point, Bald Peak.

North of McMinnville, the Yamhill-Carlton AVA resembles an inverted horseshoe. Over 1,200 acres of vineyards dot the two towns, where the North Yamhill River feeds orchards and vegetation. Protected by the Coast Range, Chehalem Mountains and Dundee Hills, well-draining sediment enhances an environment for total ripening and well-developed � avors. Dundee Hills is the most vine-concentrated sub-region of all, with approximately 1,700 acres of vineyards.

Situated in the Coast Range Foothills, the McMinnville AVA is best known for its south and east-facing slopes, where a mixture of soils and stone contribute to fully � avored pinot noirs. Nearer to the Willamette River is Eola Amity Hills. Varying degrees of ancient lava, marine rock and alluvial deposits plus dependable ocean breezes make for especially distinctive wine grapes here.

NOT UNLIKE LEWIS AND CLARK, WINEMAKERS HAVE DISCOVERED AND

CONQUERED THE OREGON WILDERNESS TO MASTER GRAPE GROWING IN A REGION

WHERE RAIN IS OFTEN MORE PROLIFIC THAN SUNSHINE.

BY MELISSA CHAVEZ

WINE REGION

Willame� e Valley

62

Willame� e ValleyBY MELISSA CHAVEZ

Willame� e ValleyBY MELISSA CHAVEZ

Willame� e Valley

Those seeking a peaceful oasis in the city will appreciate an afternoon in Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland’s Old Town/Chinatown. This $12.8 million wonder features plants indigenous to China. Reasonably priced, the not-for-pro t gardens feature tours, exhibits, special events, and traditional Chinese music in the Teahouse most afternoons.

Five minutes from downtown Portland in Washington Park, the World Forestry Center o� ers family-friendly tours of permanent and revolving exhibits from $5 to $8. The 20,000-square-foot, two-story space focuses on the history, culture, and ecology of Northwestern forests that include hands-on demonstrations.

For storybook fans and the young-at-heart, an Enchanted Forest theme park in Turner, near Salem, serves up a 40-foot Big Timber Log Ride, English and Western villages, and walk-throughs of Humpty Dumpty, a Crooked House, and the Old Lady’s Shoe. If getting enough antioxidants in your diet is of critical concern, make a beeline for dark chocolate at the annual ChocolateFest in the Oregon Convention Center (Jan. 21-23). This palatable playground brings music, demonstrations, and feasts of chocolate and wine pairings, conveniently under one roof. (See “Events” at WorldForestry.org.)

Multnomah FallsPHOTO: Wolennium

CONTINUED ON PAGE 64

Of all of these sub-regions, just some of the communities that deserve closer inspection for wine tasting are Newberg, McMinnville (“Mac”), Woodburn, Amity, Silverton, Salem, Albany, Corvallis, Eugene, and Cottage Grove—all accessible by Interstate 5. Note to Californians: When in Oregon, slow down to a relative mosey of 55 MPH to avoid unscheduled chitchats with state troopers. Taking a leisurely pace also a� ords a look at some of Oregon’s collection of covered bridges, among America’s largest. (See Oregon.com/covered_bridges.)

Whichever wineries you visit, the trip will be an unforgettable one. Should any of your wine tour experiences happen to slip your mind, a glass of Willamette Valley pinot noir can be the perfect remedy toward helping them all return.

Portland area escapesA visit to Willamette Valley’s wine country

wouldn’t be complete without a side track here and there. For sophisticates and nature lover alike, there are many reasonably priced activities to do, with many in downtown

Portland. For art a cionados, Portland Center for the Performing Arts is easy to get to in the downtown at SW Broadway and Main Street. Afterward, check out South Park Seafood Grill & Wine Bar on Salmon Street. (Catch the massive brass-colored sh plowing through the corner restaurant’s brick façade, a can’t miss.). Getting around the city is easy, courtesy of three options of public transportation. Bicyclists can also learn all about Metro Portland’s bike culture and related events by visiting BikePortland.org.

Maples and pines at Portland’s

Japanese Garden PHOTO: Paul Schultz

PHOTO: Jen K.

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Jimmy Mak’s“One of the world’s top 100 places

to hear jazz!”

Portland: 503.295.6542

JimmyMaks.com

“notes from the Underground”

at Mission theaterFree series explores the Portland jazz

scene with improv music sets and breaks

for classic jazz films on the big screen.

Monthly, first Tuesdays, at 8:30 pm.

Portland: 503.223.4527

McMenamins.com

Produce row CaféFreshly renovated jam location

of jazz greats.

Portland: 503.232.8355

ProduceRowCafe.com

tony Starlight’s Supper Club

Tuesday-Sunday live entertainment,

from Prohibition-era hot jazz,

Big Band swing, to Vegas swank.

Portland: 503.517.8584

TonyStarlight.com

WinerieS

amity VineyardsPrestigious pinot noir producer

near McMinnville.

Amity/Eola Hills: 888.264.8966

AmityVineyards.com

Chehalem WinesSustainably-conscious estate specializes

in pinot noir and chardonnay.

Newberg: 503.537.5553

ChehalemWines.com

Cristom VineyardsEola Hills 65-acre estate crafts

Old World-style wines with grapes

from six distinct vineyards.

Salem: 503.375.3068

CristomWines.com

Ponzi VineyardsSustainable, four-level, gravity-flow

facility; historic cellar, customized tours.

Beaverton: 503.628.1227

PonziWines.com


black Swan Classic Jazz band

Dixieland, early jazz, ragtime, old-time gospel.

Bscjb.com

the bureau of Standards big band

Portland-based 19-piece ensemble. Big

band-era songs of the ’30s to ’50s.

BureauOfStandardsBigBand.com

Shoehorn (Michael Conley)

Tap-dancing saxophonist, I’ll tell you what!

ShoehornMusic.com

david Jacobs StrainRoots, Delta blues.

DavidJacobs-Strain.com

Mitzi zilkaJazz singer, songwriter and founder of

Portland Jazz Singers Foundation. From

jazz standards to Bossa Nova.

MitziZilka.com


Multnomah FallsA 620-foot cascading waterfall 30-minutes

from Portland. Five-minute walk from I-84.

SpectacularOregon.com

the Oregon gardenOver 20 specialty gardens, waterfalls,

reflection ponds, fountains, conifer

display, 400-year-old oak, Quilt Show:

January 28-29.

Silverton: 503.874.8100

OregonGarden.org

Portland art MuseumCollections, film displays, and themed

exhibits, from the Old West to

interactive tattoos.

Southwest Portland: 503.226.2811

PortlandArtMuseum.org

lOdging

black Walnut inn & Vineyard

Sumptuous nuevo-Tuscan suites in

Yamhill Valley, plus gourmet breakfasts.

Dundee: 866.429.4114

BlackWalnut-Inn.com

Wine Country FarmMcMinnville area hillside farm estate

overlooking Willamette Valley. Views,

gardens, horse trails.

Dayton: 800.261.3446

WineCountryFarm.com

Youngberg Hill Vineyards & inn

Highly-rated vineyard inn with

gorgeous valley views.

McMinnville: 888.657.8668

YoungbergHill.com

reStaUrantS

McMenamins roof top bar

Splendid rooftop views outside, glass

ceiling inside. Pub serves lunch and dinner.

McMinnville: 503.472.8427

McMenamins.com

Park KitchenPearl District’s former Zagat’s winner.

Portland: 503.223.7275

ParkKitchen.com

toro bravoFlavorful, award-winning Spanish-in-

spired tapas, wines. What is hip? This is.

Portland: 503.281.4464

ToroBravoPdx.com

Wilf’s restaurantLunch, dinner, and jazz.

Portland: 503.223.0070

WilfsRestaurant.com

inFOrMatiOn

travel OregonOne-stop shop for exploring Oregon State.

TravelOregon.com

Willamette Valley Visitors

associationInteractive trip planner; links to

winegrowers associations.

Albany: 866.548.5018

continued from page 63

Our Willamette Valley Picks

Jimmy mak’sportland skyline at duskpHoto: patrick campbell

the Bureau of Standards

Big Band

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Wine Regions multi2, Wine & Jazz, Vint. 2 Trk 4, Melissa Chavez

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