wine journalJanuary/February 2014

A B C F I N E W I N E & S P I R I T S W I N E M A G A Z I N E

w i t h s o m e t h i n g p l a y f u l

ToastVALENTINE'S DAYto

Italian YOU NEED TO TRY IN 2014

Wines

New Year!H A P P Y

and cheers to a

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The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2014 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Hannah Grantz Editor hannahg@abcfws.com

Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com

Lorena Streeter Contributing Editor lorenas@abcfws.com

OUR WINE EXPERTS:

Ken Amendola kena@abcfws.com @abcwinekena

Daniel Eddy dane@abcfws.com @abcwinedane

Jim Greeley jamesg@abcfws.com @abcwinejimg

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Bill Stobbs wstobbs@abcfws.com @abcwinebills

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FILL UP YOUR GLASS AND TAKE A SEAT

FORGET YOUR “USUAL”Shayne has a new New Year’s resolution for you

IMPRESS YOUR ONE AND ONLY WITH THE RIGHT BOTTLE

Daniel is your guide for wines to open this Valentine’s Day

TAKING IN NAPAKen tastes his way through Mondavi’s mecca

BRANDY, ANYONE?Atanas unveils his favorite moments from Gascony, France

AUSTRALIAN WINES MAY NOT BE WHAT YOU THINK

Bill plays mythbuster

VIVA L’ITALIA!Paul breaks down his picks for the top 5 Italian wines you must try

A ROSÉ COCKTAIL TO WARM UP THOSE CHILLY FLORIDA DAYS

Meghan delivers a recipe for sparkling martini!

NOT ALL WINE IS VEGETARIAN/VEGAN?

Hannah looks at wines that are good options for anyone avoiding animal products

IT’S NOT ALL RAIN IN OREGON

Jim tastes, picks and sorts in Willamette Valley

W2WWhat wine are you watching? Our eyes are on L’Orangerie de Carignan

3 105 126 137 148 16

You’ve got some reading to do…

ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ TOURFor the ninth year in a row, several winemakers from Italy will be traveling to Florida to meet all of you and introduce you to their delicious wines! The Italian Winemakers’ Tour will kick off in Tallahassee and end at the Museum of Science and Industry’s EINSTEIN ON FOOD & WINE event in Tampa.

Wednesday, Jan. 29th—Wine Tasting at ABC in Tallahassee (1930 Thomasville Rd.) from 6-8 p.m.

Thursday, Jan. 30th—Wine Tasting at ABC in Ponte Vedra (530 Sawgrass Village Dr.) from 6-8 p.m.

Friday, Jan. 31st—Wine Tasting at ABC in Oviedo (801 Oviedo Marketplace Blvd.) from 6-8 p.m.

Saturday, Feb. 1st—EINSTEIN ON FOOD & WINE at MOSI in Tampa (4801 E Fowler Ave.) from 7-10 p.m.

Wineries, the winemakers that will be on the tour and their wines:

Giorgi, Eleonora Giorgi: Costarosa Sangue di Guida, Moscarosa Pink Moscato, Nadia Malvasia, Pinonero Frizzante and Giorgi 1870

La Cappuccina, Sisto Tessari: Pinot Grigio, Soave, Fontego, Madego

La Calonica, Giovanni Cattani: Cortona, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, Girifalco Cortona, Capanne Vecchie Cabernet, Capanne Vecchie Merlot

Tenuta Pepe, Michele di Gregorio: Lila Falanghina, Nestor Greco di Tufo, Terra del Varo Aglianico, Opera Mia Taurasi

Racemi, Gregory Perrucci: Portile Primitivo, Pietraluna Negramaro, Giravolta Primitivo, Anarkos, Sum, Monili Montepulciano, Monili Rosso, Paint the Town Red

Nicolis, Massimo Nicolis: Valpolicella Classico, Seccal Valpolicella Cl. Superiore Ripasso, Amarone, Ambrosan Amarone

Collalto, Lara Pradal: Pinot Grigio, Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry, Prosecco Superiore Brut, Collalto Rose’, Torrai Cabernet Riserva

Santa Maria La Palma, Cristina Neri: Aragosta Vermentino di Sardegna, Bombarde Cannonau

La Gerla, Alberto Passeri: Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna gli Angeli, Birba

Giovanna Tantini, Giovanna Tantini: Chiaretto, Bardolino, Ettore Corvina

Rather than writing about any wine related New Year’s resolutions that I may make, I wanted to try to list

some thoughts/ideas for 2014, related to the wine side of our industry. I can’t predict trends any better than anyone else, so I won’t even try. What I will touch on are styles and regions that I hope more people will discover, or rediscover in the upcoming new year. And to those who have discovered some of these wines, dig deeper. Look more closely at the individuals, the small wineries and the better zones inside of the regions. Many times, you can trade up from a ‘brand’ or widely distributed label into something more artisanal and artistic, with a name and a face behind the product, for the same price, sometimes a little more… but sometimes less! You might say to have you drink better is my resolution for you.

Unoaked Chardonnay: 2013 was the year of the oak-free Chardonnay, and also the year when people were consistently asking for it. And it is about time! It is certainly nothing new; folks have been making white wines for thousands of years, long before the advent of the barrel, and they seemed to like it just fine. But in Chardonnay? Well, as more and more people refine their palates, they are opting for wines with more varietal character and less, well, seasoning. Chardonnay is maybe the only white grape that everyone assumes is always oaked. Not so! Many Burgundy producers opt for a cleaner, more vibrant Chardonnay by omitting the wood. Try them, and try some of the California examples, like Dalliance Unoaked Chardonnay, and rediscover what this lovely grape can offer!

Pinot Grigio: This past year proved as big as ever for this rather neutral white wine, and I expect 2014 will be the same. You know what bugs me? So many of these wines are produced by large cooperative wineries and they overshadow the wines made at actual wineries. Here is where you can benefit from asking one of our wine consultants which are which. The crazy thing: many times the estate-bottled version is actually LESS than the one you are already buying. “Will I like it better?” I can’t answer that, but I like them better, in part because I know there is a face or a family behind it. I recommend Zellina Pinot Grigio and Collalto Pinot Grigio.

Something besides Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio: Let me make this simple…if you are asking for oak-free Chardonnay, or Pinot Grigio, what I hear is that you are tired of Chardonnay. Right? So, once you have overcome your fear of wines without oak, the world is your oyster…and with that oyster what should you serve??? How about a few interesting whites, unoaked, that deliver.

Muscadet: If you want clean and crisp (and you do, please) then try the French Muscadet. From vineyards near the city of Nantes, these are very inexpensive, food friendly and delicious.

Riesling: Want to beat your neighbors to the best thing they’ve never had? Ferret out a few bottles of a nice dry Riesling (yep, dry… if you thought German Riesling was always sweet, shame on you!) from a good producer like Johannes Selbach, shuck them oysters, and live! Look for ‘trocken’ or

‘halbtrocken’ on the label and you have the real thing. Sommeliers and T.V. chefs can’t be wrong.

The others: Try something different. We have hundreds of wines besides THOSE wines, so don’t be hesitant. Try a Spanish Godello (which I love) or an Austrian Gruner Veltliner. Or how about an Oregon Pinot Gris? Wait, I know… Provence Rosé. Or maybe Aligote, or Vernaccia, or Torrontes, or Vermentino, or Soave…

Something besides white wines: Funny, but there are so many relatively undiscovered white wines, and yet everyone is pretty familiar with most reds. But still, when you remove the BIG 3 from the equation, there are plenty of notable red wines waiting in the shadows, hoping for the day when, like the unoaked story, elegant fruit-driven reds take their place next to Cabernet, Merlot and Pinot Noir.

In addition to all of the ‘new’ California red blends (many of which, by the way, you should try) there are literally hundreds of others which deserve your interest. These are not Cabernet, so the bigger-is-better philosophy is out the window. I would recommend:

From California: Playtime by Shannon Ridge, Cimmaron by Vigilance, The Messenger Red Wine #2 by Art+Farm Wines

From Italy: Giovanna Tantini Bardolino, La Calonica Sangiovese di Cortona, Tenuta Cavelier de Pepe Aglianico, Nicolas Valpolicella Ripasso, Pavia Barbera Moliss

From France: Xavier Cotes-du-Rhone, Pic & Chapoutier, Domaine Bila Haut, Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley.

As you can see, there is an entire world of wines here, waiting for you to discover. Why not make it your New Year’s resolution to put aside the same old same old and pick up something exciting and different!

The Best Has Yet to Come…

S H A Y N E H E B E R T, C E N T R A L F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

2014?

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REDSCABERNET SAUVIGNON• Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

2006 (pg 6)• Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon

(pg 6)

CHIANTI• Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico

(pg 11)

PINOT NOIR• Boedecker Cellars Pinot Noir Athena

(pg 15)• Boedecker Cellars Pinot Noir Stewart

(pg 15)• Boedecker Cellars Stoller Vineyard

Pinot Noir (pg 15)• Carlton Cellars Seven Devils (pg 15)• Carlton Cellars Cape Lookout (pg 15)• Carlton Cellars Road's End (pg 15)• Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir (pg 15)• Maysara Asha Pinot Noir (pg 15)• Mondavi Carneros, Napa Valley Reserve

Pinot Noir (pg 6)

RED BLEND• Château Montus Cuvée Préstige (pg 7)• Dalliance Red (pg 5)• d’Arenberg The Stump Jump (pg 13)• Giovanna Tantini Bardolino (pg 3)• Harmonie de Gascogne Rouge (pg 7)• La Calonica Sangiovese di Cortona

(pg 3)• La Calonica Vino Nobile di

Montepulciano San Venerio Riserva (pg 11)

• Messenger Red Wine #2 by Art+Farm Wines (pg 3)

• Nicolas Valpolicella Ripasso (pg 3)• Pavia Barbera Moliss (pg 3) • Shannon Ridge Playtime (pg 3)• Tenuta Cavelier de Pepe Aglianico (pg 3)• Vigilance Cimmaron (pg 3)

SHIR AZ• d’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (pg 13)• d’Arenberg Footbolt Shiraz (pg 13)

TANNAT• Château Bouscassé Vielles Vignes (pg 7)

WHITESCHARDONNAY• Dalliance Unoaked Chardonnay (pg 3)

FUME BLANC• Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve (pg 6)

PINOT BLANC• Pappas Pinot Blanc (pg 15)

PINOT GRIGIO• Zellina Pinot Grigio (pg 3)• Collalto Pinot Grigio (pg 3)

PINOT GRIS• Maysara Arsheen Pinot Gris (pg 15)• Pappas Pinot Gris (pg 3)

RIESLING• Moller Piesporter Michelsberg Kabinett

(pg 5)

SPARKLING• Bellavista Brut Cuvee (pg 11)• Block 026 (pg 12)• Collato Spumante Rosé (pg 5)• Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Saten

(pg 10)• Haton Brut Rosé Champagne (pg 5)• Moёt & Chandon (pg 13) • Veuve Ambal (pg 13)• Veuve Clicquot (pg 13)

WHITE BLEND• Harmonie de Gascogne White (pg 7)• Ottosoldi Gavi (pg 10)

ROSÉS • Block 026 (pg 12)• Collato Spumante Rosé (pg 5)• Giorgi Moscarosa (pg 5)• Harmonie de Gascogne Rosé (pg 7)• Haton Brut Rosé Champagne (pg 5)

BR ANDY• Château de Maniban, Bas Armagnac,

Napoléon (pg 7)• Château de Maniban, Bas Armagnac, VS

(pg 7)

Wine List

What is a Valentine wine? Are we just looking for hearts on the label? Perhaps something with a

scarlet hue and a romantic name? If that’s the only criteria you have, then I have the perfect option: Dalliance Lake County Red. With a name that means “playful affair” and a red label with two figures embraced, this wine fulfills all of the basic criteria. It does help that this is a ripe and juicy blend of Zinfandel, Barbera, Syrah, Tempranillo and Grenache that has soft tannins and a fruity finish, so it appeals to most everybody. It’s got a hint of spice to balance the blackberry flavors and therefore would be a wine I would love to pair with a box of fancy chocolates. If you want a simple solution to your Valentine wine dilemma, there you go. Since I was lucky enough to visit Shannon Ridge Winery in Lake County California, I hold a romantic feeling for the place where the wine was created, which adds to the overall romance of this wine. For me, truly romantic wines have a context attached, and if you have a loved one, then the most romantic wine you can choose is the one that your loved one loves most. When I think of the most romantic wines I’ve ever had, I can’t help but think of the situation, and recreating that context becomes a romantic endeavor, or a dalliance in the classic sense.

We are trained to think of Champagne or sparkling wine when we think of celebrations and romance, and that is another easy option. Rosé bruts, like the Haton Brut Rosé Champagne, can be a fun alternative because of their color, blushing like a young Valentine. We find riper, fruitier flavors in brut rosé Champagne than a typical brut, though there are many sweet pink options if you and your loved one tend to the sweet side, like Giorgi’s Moscarosa, which definitely has some residual sugar on the

palate. One of my favorites is the Collalto Spumante Rosé, and it’s romantic for me because it reminds me of an amazing trip to Italy I experienced last year. Drinking this sparkling wine with a vast array of appetizers at the famous Hotel Danieli, on the Canale di San Marco in Venice, stands out as a very romantic occasion, even though I was not with my loved one. Made of the local Manzoni Moscato grape, this lightly pink sparkler has a beautiful color and a soft floral nose that is reminiscent of heirloom roses—a very romantic flower indeed. The hint of sweet fruit makes it perfect to drink alone or to pair with chocolate, our other mandated Valentine consumable (though I tend to like chocolate better with deeper red wines or Portos). If you need another simple answer, like our literal choice above, then think pink and think bubbly. If you want to get a whiff of the romance of beautiful, and very romantic, Venice, then this is a perfect wine.

While in college I spent a summer abroad in London, and though I was unpartnered, the whole journey was very romantic for me. One experience became instrumental in my later career choices and that was visiting a wine and cheese bar. I can tell you the wine and the three cheeses we had on a cheeseboard that night, even now over twenty years later: Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett with three cheeses, Cotswold, Saga blue and aged gouda. These were not French cheeses, originating from England, Denmark and Holland, and they reawakened my love for good cheese. I had become jaded on Brie and Camembert, so to have a cheddar with chives (Cotswold), a blue brie-style cheese (Saga Blue), and a sharp gouda full of salty crystals (aged gouda) really excited my palate. The Mosel Riesling (and a current option would be our Moller Piesporter Michelsberg Kabinett) was the perfect Northern European wine to go with these Northern European cheeses. It had a sweet fruitiness, and since I was a neophyte wineaux I liked that “spoonful of sugar to help the medicine go down,” but it also had a bright minerality, which cut the fattiness of the cheese in a perfect way. The tastes of the cheeses changed when consumed with the wine, and each created a different experience. I am amazed we made it home on the Tube that night, as we had

more than one bottle, but the romance of new friendships and new adult experiences remains with me to this day.

When I found my loved one, years later, I recreated this experience with some really good artisanal cheeses and some really nice German wine. You have to find good, crusty bread, hopefully from a local bakery, and remember country-style loaves as well as baguettes. Don’t forget some fruit, like sliced Granny Smith apples or Bosch pears, which pair perfectly with this array of cheese. Get a selection of fine nuts, maybe some dried fruits like figs or dates and you have the perfect romantic meal that is easy to prepare. You can make it a simple picnic, remember that location, location, location also makes a circumstance romantic, even if that location is your own backyard. You can recreate this with a selection of cheese from another country, making it all French, all Italian, or all Spanish, and then include more savory options like cured olives or marinated artichoke hearts or cured meats—like a French saucisson, Italian prosciutto, Spanish serrano or German speck hams.

Here we have three avenues to a Valentine wine: literal like the Dalliance Red, celebratory like the Collalto Spumante Rosé and subjective history like the Moller Piesporter Michelsberg Kabinett. Or create your own romantic memories with a selection of your favorite cheeses paired with some of your favorite wines. You are only limited by your own creativity, and as with most gifts, it’s the thought that really counts. I hope you have a very romantic Valentine’s Day and don’t let the marketing pressure of Hallmark and Godiva force you into only one option—you have many. Cheers and Happy Valentine’s Day!

D A N I E L E D D Y, N O R T H W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

ABC's Daniel Eddy in Venice

My Valentine,BEWINE.

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It seems that whenever I talk to people about visiting or drinking wine from the California, they take for granted

that I am talking about the Napa Valley. To me it is no surprise people have this connection between fine California wine and Napa Valley. It was the wines from Napa Valley that first put American wines into the world’s wineglasses, due in part to the resounding defeat of the French at the wine tasting competition held in Paris in 1976. From that day on, wines from California were never looked at the same by wine drinkers, both American and European. For the people of this country who wanted to drink fine wine and thought the wines from

Europe were their only option, this was no longer the case.

I was very fortunate to take a trip through Napa Valley this past autumn with a group from ABC. We toured a number of interesting wineries, from one of the oldest in Napa Valley

(Beringer Vineyards), to one of the most beautiful (Antica), to one of the bubbliest (Mumm Napa), to the one winery I would like to tell you about: the Robert Mondavi Winery. Now there are wineries in Napa that are bigger or older, but I don’t know of any one name that is more synonymous with Napa Valley than the Robert Mondavi Family Winery. Though owned today by one of the largest corporate entities in the wine business, what Robert Mondavi achieved cannot be minimized by today’s state of ownership of the winery.

After the well-publicized infighting between Robert Mondavi (who died in 2008) and his brother Peter and mother Rosa in the early 1960s, Robert left the Mondavi family-owned Charles Krug Winery and opened his Robert Mondavi Winery in 1966. This iconic, Spanish-style winery, the first to be built in the Napa Valley since before Prohibition, quickly became the face of Napa Valley. Along with his sons Michael and Tim, Robert Mondavi set out to prove to the world what he and the handful of other serious winemakers in Napa Valley knew: this place would soon be producing some of the finest wines in the world.

Our tour of the vineyards, led by Senior Wine Educator Dana Douglas Andrus, started at the winery, where we all piled into the vineyard’s Suburban for a drive through the Mondavi vineyards in Oakville, including the famous Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard. After the tour we headed to the winery cellars where we saw 1,000 newly delivered, gleaming new French oak barrels that were all still in the shrink-wrap; there was nary a drop of grape juice on them…or in them.

We stood at the tasting bar in the cellar, staring at all the vintage bottles behind the wood and screened cabinets before us. There were dusty reserve bottles of Cabernet and Merlot that surely dated back to the 60s and 70s. I was fortunate enough to have had a bottle of the 1974 Mondavi Reserve of my own that we opened at dinner on my 50th birthday a few years ago. The wine showed incredibly well and was a testament to the vision and work the Mondavi family always puts into their Reserve line of wines.

We sat for a tasting of the 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and the current vintage of the Oakville Cabernet from Mondavi. The 2010 Oakville Cabernet was very good; it reminded me of the 2009 Oakville, The Messenger Cabernet. I think that it shows the true sense of terroir that Mr. Mondavi

was trying all along. As we were headed upstairs for dinner, Dana reached into one of the cabinets and chose a bottle for us to have with our dinner: a bottle of the 1979 Reserve Cabernet—what a treat!

The dining room was upstairs, enclosed by glass doors looking out into the vineyards and the winery’s organic garden—a beautiful sight with which to enjoy fabulous wines, a wonderful meal, lively conversation and a few of Alex’s memorable stories. We started with a salad of local peaches, Laura Chenel goat cheese and toasted pistachios; the wine to accompany was the 2011 Mondavi To Kalon Vineyard Fume Blanc Reserve. If ever there was a marketing error on the part of Robert Mondavi, it was not trademarking the name Fume Blanc when he came up with it back in the 1960s as a way to boost his, at the time, stagnant Sauvignon Blanc sales. This Reserve Fume Blanc, though still quite youthful, had great depth, aromas of fresh pineapple and flavors of lemon grass, peach and minerals. It was a terrific match with the salad, as the hint of oak on the finish went well with the goat cheese and pistachios.

Our next course was roast pork loin with a Chantrelle mushroom and mustard Pinot jus. With this we had a 2011 Mondavi Carneros, Napa Valley Reserve Pinot Noir and the 1979 Reserve Cabernet. Both of these wines showed very well; the Pinot Noir was spot on with the pork loin and the ’79 Cabernet brought to mind the great history of this amazing place.

This was a truly a highlight for me, especially knowing how much this winery has meant not just to Napa Valley, but to the entire wine industry in California. No amount of praise is too much in regard to what Robert Mondavi accomplished in his life and the winery will continue to far into the future.

K E N A M E N D O L A , N O R T H F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

The Napa EXPERIENCE

Our group on a tour of the Mondavi Winery in Oakville

Gascony is an area in the southwest of France less than a two hours’ drive south of Bordeaux; off the beaten

path, tourists are still rare around there, and that keeps it one of the most authentic and untouched provinces in France.

Our ABC wine team was able to visit Gascony briefly on two occasions in the past two years. Driving on small country roads through green meadows, old farms and fortified medieval villages (Yes! Some villages, locally called bastides, still have their fortification walls, unseen elsewhere!), it felt like stepping back in time.

The first visit was to the most important sub wine region of Gascony, the region of Madiran, which deserves an article on its own. Madiran is the home place for a grape called Tannat. Tannat is the base for all red and rosé wines of Madiran and Gascony. Two of my “top ten wines of the world” are Château Bouscassé Vielles Vignes and Château Montus Cuvée Préstige, both from the legendary winemaker Alain Brumont. These wines are available at select ABC stores and are a must-taste for any wine aficionado.

Gascony is also famed for its food; the region is the world’s largest producer of foie gras, duck and goose liver, which were part of every lunch and dinner we were invited to at the local wineries. Sometimes both were served at the same meal! For foie gras being almost pure cholesterol and consumed daily by the locals, it’s amazing that the area has one the best lifespans in the world. This was popularized as the “French Paradox” and is explained by the balancing effect of the Madiran’s red wine, proved to have the highest concentration of polyphenols and resveratrol in particular. In this case, the health benefits of drinking red Madiran wine are undoubted.

Gascony is also the land of d'Artagnan, who inspired Alexandre Dumas's lead character in The Three Musketeers. But more importantly, it is the land of my personal favorite digestive: the Armagnac brandy.

Armagnac is the oldest eau-de-vie (literally “water of life”) of France. Famous in the middle ages for its therapeutic virtues, it became a widely used spirit during the 15th century and reached its apogee in the 19th century.

The area of production is part of the vineyards of the Southwest, located south of the Bordeaux region, and comprises the departments of Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne. Besides Armagnac AOC, there are four other more specific AOCs of the area: Bas-Armagnac, Armagnac-Ténarèze (or Ténarèze), Haut-Armagnac and La Blanche-Armagnac (or White-Armagnac).

The use of 10 grape varieties (all white) is allowed by the appellation; the predominant four grapes are the Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and Baco Blanc.

The Bas-Armagnac is the largest of the three areas with 60% of all the plantings. Its quartz soil covered with fine sand and mixed with ferruginous elements is the reason for more delicate and fruity brandy vs. the chalk and clay soil of the Ténarèze which produces a more full-bodied brandy.

Armagnac is distilled only once and at a lower temperature (110ºC) than Cognac, which is double-distilled at a higher temperature; this and the sandy soil determine the more fragrant and grapey style of the Armagnac vs. the more neutral Cognac, especially at younger age.

Château de Maniban is considered one of the best producers of Armagnac in the area. The castle was built by the Marquis de Maniban around 1544. The cellars were built during the 18th century. Château de Maniban owns 20 hectares of vines in Bas-Armagnac; Bas-Armagnac is the most highly rated terroir of the Armagnac region and produces the best crus.

Currently at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits we offer two Armagnac brandies from Château de Maniban:

Château de Maniban, Bas Armagnac, VS ($33)

Château de Maniban, Bas Armagnac, Napoléon ($48)

Our second visit to Gascony was just this past June when our wine team made a day trip to visit the domain of Pellehaut in the days after VinExpo 2013 in Bordeaux.

Martin and Mathieu Béraut are the two brothers at the reins of this large 180 hectares, 300-year-old family wine estate, one of the oldest vineyards in the Gers department. The domain also produces a range of Armagnacs and has a cattle farm as well, all this in harmony with a rich surrounding biodiversity.

The following three wines from Domaine de Pellehaut are currently available at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits each for the incredible price of $10:

The 2012 Harmonie de Gascogne White is a blend of Sauvignon, Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng grown on clay and limestone soil. Only indigenous yeast (six equally dominant strains) is used for the fermentation. The wine delights the senses with its aromatic intensity; tropical fruit, ripe citrus and white flower notes are balanced by refreshing acidity. Enjoy as aperitif or with variety of seafood dishes and goat cheese.

The 2013 Harmonie de Gascogne Rosé, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Tannat and Syrah, exhibits raspberry pink color and aromas and flavors of strawberries, raspberries and lavender. Enjoy with grilled meats, grilled vegetables, fish and mixed salads.

The 2011 Harmonie de Gascogne Rouge, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Tannat, exhibits bright ruby color with purple hues; the palate is round, pleasant and supple with aromas of cherries, blackcurrant, wild strawberry and spice. This medium to light-bodied red is best served lightly chilled. Pair with grilled red meats, stews and aged cheeses.

G A S C O N YThe Land of the Water of Life

A T A N A S N E C H K O V, C E N T R A L F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

MYTHBUSTERS!

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One of our prime traits as human beings seems to be the need to compartmentalize various facts

and ideas and tie them up in neat little packages. We live in an age of bites—info bites, sound bites, video bites. Sometimes this pigeonholing is necessary—we’d have a difficult time surviving as a species without the ability to assimilate information and categorize it quickly. But at other times the facts and truths that we transform into info bites turn out to be half-truths and something less than facts.

I’ve done it before, I admit, and so have my colleagues—made statements about certain wine countries or regions based on a quick

assumption that was heard 10 years ago. I know that my statement doesn’t tell the full story, and I know that things in that country or region have changed drastically in ten years, and yet still I do it. Well, I think it’s time to change.

Australian wine is a perfect example of this casual compartmentalization into pseudo-facts and half-truths. Recently I was invited to attend Savour Australia 2013 in Adelaide, South Australia—the largest Australian wine forum ever held. It was a gathering of about 750 wine experts from around the world—Masters of Wine, sommeliers, the wine media, on and off-premise buyers—all invited in the hope that they will learn some truths

about Australian wines as they stand right now and spread that information to wine lovers all around the planet. It is an attempt to revitalize the Australian wine industry.

But first some myths about Australian wine had to be busted, and that is what I’d like to reveal to you here.

Myth #1: Australian wine is primarily about cheap entry-level stuff that usually has a critter label. The fact is, as my recent visit confirmed, there are hundreds and if not thousands of Australian wineries dedicated to making wines of true quality and distinction that can proudly stand with the greatest wines

Is What They’re Saying About Australian Wine True?

B I L L S T O B B S , W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

Jacob's Creek Steingarten Vineyard

Lunch at Ch TanundaOldest Shiraz Vines in the World - 160 Years

100 Year Old Cab Vines for Penfold's Block 42

in the world. The Aussies don’t put down their inexpensive wines—they are quick to note that when Australian wine first hit the international market in the 1990s, these entry-level wines were good value for money and in many cases better than what France or Italy was offering in the same price range at that time. But their emphasis now is (and rightly so) on wines of quality.

Myth #2: Australian wine is all about Shiraz and Chardonnay. The fact is that while they certainly can (and do) make something special with these varietals, Australia has much more to offer. Of course we know there is some terrific Cabernet coming out of Oz, but have you ever considered Australian Riesling? There is so much great quality dry Riesling in Australia—beautifully balanced with good acidity and certainly age-worthy—that it is a wonder the rest of the world hasn’t cottoned on to it yet. You will also find some very good Grenache—not huge and in your face as anticipated but elegant and seductive—as well as Tempranillo and Mourvedre. Pinot Noir—something that was never really associated with Oz in the past—is coming

along beautifully. Likewise, the Semillon and Semillon/Sauvignon blends are a treat. But the biggest surprise to me is the enthusiasm that many Australian winemakers now have for Italian varietals—Fiano, Vermentino, Primitivo, Sangiovese and yes, even Nebbiolo.

Myth #3: Australian wines are all big, over-extracted, in-your-face monsters. The fact is I found many wines there of an elegant nature, and even most of the rich and juicy Shiraz and Cabernet wines, while full-bodied, showed great finesse and balance.

Myth #4: Terroir doesn’t matter in Australia. The fact is, because Australia has the oldest soil on earth, terroir is naturally of great importance here, and regionality is key to understanding the wines. Barossa, Margaret River, Hunter Valley and Victoria are just as important to Aussie wine as Bordeaux and Burgundy are to France or Napa and Sonoma to the U.S.

Myth #5: Australia has only recently become a wine producing nation. The fact is that while Australians don’t have thousands of years of winemaking history,

they have been making wine for 200 years. It comes as a surprise to many people that some of the oldest still-existing grape vines in the world are in Australia. They were brought there before phylloxera destroyed vines throughout Europe in the late 19th century. The European vines had to be replanted on American rootstock. For that reason, during my visit to Australia I was able to stand in arguably the oldest Shiraz (160 years old), Grenache and Mourvedre vineyards in the world and taste the wines they still produce.

So let’s call these myths about Australian wine officially busted, and hope that we can all begin to enjoy the great quality and variety that Australia has to offer—without resorting to easy half-truths and pigeon-holing please!

Jacob's Creek Vineyard

Jacob's Creek Steingarten Vineyard Jacob's Creek Steingarten Vineyard

Planting My Own Shiraz Vine at St. Hugo Vineyard

wine journal | 10

2014? Where does the time go? It seems like just yesterday I met ABC’s fine wine buyer Brad Lewis while on a

trip to Germany. That was 1994 and soon after that chance encounter I began my career at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits.

Over the years I’ve seen our wine selection become increasingly more diverse and interesting. In today’s competitive market place, it is not an option to stand still. Savvy wine shoppers are always looking for something new and exciting to take home. As my job responsibilities have expanded, I find it both challenging and rewarding in assisting Brad with our Italian portfolio. We are always looking to give our guests one more reason to return.

The following are five newly discovered Italian wines that you must try in 2014:

Italian Wines2014FOR

N E W

1 Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Saten 2008

The small, hilly wine appellation on the shores of Lake Iseo is home to

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta. Contadi Castaldi Brut and Rose have been part of our Italian selections for almost two years now, and given the positive guest reaction to these wines we decided to offer the 2008 Saten.

Saten is the flagship style of Contadi Castaldi. By law it must be made primarily with Chardonnay and bottled with lower pressure in the bottle than traditional Champagne method wines. The resulting wine is a textural delight. The soft creamy mousse, toasty fresh-fruit nose and refreshing acidity on the palate are hard to resist.

P A U L Q U A G L I N I , S O U T H E A S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Saten 2008

Bellavista Winery, Franciacorta

Ottosoldi Gavi 2012 Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2010

La Calonica Vino Nobile di Montepulciano San Venerio Riserva

2008

Bellavista Brut Cuvee

2 Ottosoldi Gavi 2012

It seems like our guests never tire of the seemingly endless selection of Pinot Grigios

that fly off our shelves. Despite this continued popularity, Italy does offer a number of dry, crisp alternatives. The Piedmont region in northwest Italy is home to one of my favorite wines in this style, Gavi.

At VinItaly last spring we met with winemaker and owner Stefano Moccagatta. His Ottosoldi Gavi is bone dry, crisp and flinty with fresh acidity coming from the mineral rich soils of the area.

3 Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2010

A part of the ABC wine team had the opportunity to

visit Tuscany last year. Nicolas Carmamelli, winemaker at Fattoria La Ripa, gave us an unforgettable lesson in the vineyards of his Chianti Classico estate. The alberese and galestro soils and organic farming practices give him the perfect canvas to sculpt stunning wines. Voted a “Best Buy” from Wine Spectator, this wine is described as: “Bursting with black cherry and earth aromas and flavors this is an intense red with the fruit balanced by lively acidity and moderately firm tannins. Iron and spice notes linger.” 90pts Wine Spectator.

4 La Calonica Vino Nobile di Montepulciano San Venerio Riserva 2008

La Calonica consistently produces reliably outstanding

and fairly priced wines. The father and son team of Fernando and Giovanni Cattani have worked with us for more than ten years, providing our stores with their highly rated wines. The Vino Nobile Riserva, a complex aromatic wine with black current and plum flavors, is our newest addition from this fine Tuscan estate.

5Bellavista Brut Cuvee

Another wine from Franciacorta? Yes, I’ll admit it. After a visit to the region in

September of last year I’m infatuated with Franciacorta… and with good reason. The Franciacorta region has the strictest regulations for any sparkling wines in the world. Franciacorta has longer bottle aging on the lees and smaller yields in the vineyards. But regulations alone don’t make great wine.

Bellavista is the crown jewel of the Moretti Empire. Vittorio Moretti’s winemaker, Mattia Bezzola, crafts brilliantly pure, elegant Italian sparkling wine that is the reference point for the entire Franciacorta region. Don’t take my word for it; Robert Parker has called Bellavista “the finest dry Champagne-like sparkling wine I have ever tasted.”

Selecting new wines for our stores is far from a science. That being said, it’s not as though we are just blindly making selections in hopes that are guests will enjoy them. Our wine buying team travels the world searching for exceptional wines you won’t find anywhere else in Florida. Stop in and ask what’s new and exciting… you won’t be disappointed.

wine journal | 12

Though the twinkle of Christmas lights have dimmed and the whirlwind of New Year’s Eve is over, it doesn’t mean you can’t indulge yourself now and then. This delicate Champagne

cocktail is made with Grand Marnier and elderflower syrup for a floral palate and luscious aroma. Sip this fragrant drink as an aperitif or nightcap—that’s how native Atlantans enjoy the cocktail invented at local restaurant MidCity Cuisine.

LUSH—a Sparkling Cocktail M E G H A N G U A R I N O

LUSHIce

1 ounce vodka

½ ounce Grand Marnier

1 ½ teaspoons elderflower syrup

2 ounces chilled rose Champagne (or sparkling wine. We suggest Block 26)

1 small bunch of Champagne grapes, frozen

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add vodka, Grand Marnier and elderflower syrup. Shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass and top with Champagne. Garnish with grapes.

Recipe from foodandwine.com

Photo by Jaycee Mason

A vegan sets the dinner table with a bowl of tofu pad Thai, pours him/herself a glass of Riesling and sits down to enjoy

a lovely meal. What might be wrong with this picture? Believe it or not, it may be that glass of Riesling. For the first time recently I heard that some wineries make their wines using animal products, a surprising thought to those of us who have always thought of wine to simply include juice fermented into alcohol. Vegan or not, it’s interesting to think of how and where animal products could be added to wine, so I decided to get down to the details behind this and do a little more research.

First question, does all wine contain some animal product?No, not all. This is up to the winery and the winemaker.

How and why are these animal products part of the wine?It’s a part of the filtration process called “fining” where protein, the cloudiness of the wine and other natural particles are removed. The “fining agents” that are used to remove these natural parts of our wine are, in some cases, animal products.

And which animal products are we talking about?Anything from egg whites and fish oil to casein (milk protein) and gelatin can be used when filtering wine prior to bottling. So for those who are concerned about keeping their diet completely free of animal products, you may want to do a little research on your wine before enjoying it.

Are there options if I don’t want to drink wines containing these products?Yes—there are! Key words to look for here are “bottled unfined and unfiltered;” some wineries just opt for different methods of filtering than using animal products. Rather than going through our stores and reading every single wine label, I found this great website called Barnivore that lists vegan and vegetarian-friendly wines, beers and spirits.

Before you start to panic though, thinking you’re sitting down to dinner with a glass of egg whites or something, realize that the fining process attracts these proteins, yeast cells and other things to the fining agents, creating larger, more easily filtered particles. The particles really sink to the bottom as heavier sediment, along with stems, pieces of grape skins and other detritus, and the clear wine is removed to be recasked and bottled.

But for those who want to steer clear of any animal products in the winemaking process all together, here are just some of the many wine options that are vegan-friendly (thanks, barnivore.com!).

As far back as 2009, Kendall-Jackson reported that: "We do not use egg whites or isinglass to fine any of our white wine. We use egg whites on occasion (rarely) to filter red wine. Our winemaker says that when you filter, often you are filtering out flavor as well, and so he doesn't often use this process." So to be on the safe side, if you’re enjoying Kendall-Jackson, stick with their whites.

Lakeridge Winery & Vineyards in Clermont, Fla. said in 2011 that the supplier of one of their primary ingredients used animal bone char to remove some color, so their wines were not considered to be vegan-friendly then. However, in January 2012, the company stated that, "We get a fair number of customer questions regarding whether our wines are vegan. In 2010, our supplier, that was previously not vegan, was certified vegan. I feel comfortable stating that the cased good wines we have in stock and in distribution are now vegan."

Another brand you can trust to drink if you’re concerned about added ingredients is Layer Cake. This company announced last year that their entire line of wines was animal product-free, saying, "The only process used on Layer Cake wines is cross-flow filtration through a ceramic filter, so no animal ingredients!"

And here’s some good news for all of you Riesling lovers. Schmitt Sohne reports that "Schmitt Sohne rarely has to fine our wines… we normally let them settle by themselves and filter before bottling. On the few occasions, when the wine is not crystal clear, we will use bentonite as a fining agent. Bentonite is from volcanic ash and has a negative charge which attracts suspended particles in wine and causes them to settle to the bottom of the tank. We do not use any animal by-products and are completely in accordance with vegan guidelines."

There are more red wine options available from Australian winery, d’Arenberg, including Dead Arm Shiraz, Footbolt Shiraz and The Stump Jump. D’Arenberg says their “reds are vegan friendly, most whites are too. Occasionally with the whites we may fine with skimmed milk powder or isinglass.”

Fear not, Champagne drinkers. Both Moët & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot have confirmed that they don’t use animal products in the making of their Champagne. Veuve Ambal bubbly is also vegan-friendly, saying that their “Oenological product contains no milk casein, egg or fish.” The celebrations can go on after all!

Keep the theme going and pair your vegan Veuve Ambal with vegan chocolate cake! This cake is so delicious you won’t even miss the egg!

H A N N A H G R A N T Z

What's in My Wine?

DIRECTIONS For the cake:Preheat oven to 350°. In an 8x8 inch square pan, mix the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt with a fork. Add the water or coffee, vanilla extract, vegetable oil and vinegar. Mix the ingredients together. Bake for 30 minutes. Cool on a cooling rack.

For the glaze:In a small saucepan, bring the sugar, margarine, soy milk and cocoa powder to a boil, stirring frequently. Simmer for 2 minutes, remove from heat and stir an additional 5 minutes. Stir in the vanilla extract.

Pour the glaze onto cake and let it cool for one hour. This recipe makes 1, 8x8 inch square vegan chocolate cake.

(Recipe adapted from veganbaking.net)

INGREDIENTSCake: 1 ¼ cup flour 1 cup sugar ⅓ cup cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup warm water (you may substitute this for coffee) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ⅓ cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon white or apple cider vinegar

Glaze:½ cup sugar 4 tablespoons margarine or vegan butter substitute 2 tablespoons soy milk 2 tablespoons cocoa powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

V E G A N C H O C O L A T E C A K E

wine journal | 14

W I N E S S H I N E WILLAMETTE VALLEY TRADITION

J I M G R E E L E Y, S O U T H W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E RV I S O R

in

The sun may not always shine in Willamette Valley, but even without the benefit of consistently ideal weather, great wines often do.

During a fall visit to Oregon’s premier wine region, I was witness to the genius contained within. Yet for many wine drinkers, this sleepy AVA about an hour's drive south of Portland isn't on their radar. And that's a pity, because this dynamic area makes compelling, cool climate versions of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Along for the journey were my ABCFWS colleagues Arthur Maille and Glenn Sudnick; two very fine wine professionals indeed and assuredly good natured travelling companions as well. Heck, anyone who can put up with my erratic driving for several days without complaint should readily qualify for the extreme patience merit badge.

We trekked through the prime appellations of Dundee Hills, McMinnville, Yamhill-Carlton and Eola-Amity Hills, tasting wines, picking fruit and working a sorting table or two. Throughout our visit it dawned on me how Willamette Valley is more reminiscent of Burgundy, France, than neighboring California.

The style supports this assertion: elegant, complex wines, with fresh personalities, balanced acidity and pretty bouquets. Drinkers seeking high-alcohol fruit bombs need not apply here. Willamette's best wines are terroir driven, just like the Cote d’Or in Burgundy, with Willakenzie, Wellsdale and Jory soils featuring prominently, representative of their distinctive micro-climates.

Perhaps the biggest disparity with California is undoubtedly the weather; Willamette gets an average of 80 inches of rain a season. The small production, family-oriented wineries with outputs often less than 20,000 cases is another. And until recently, the wine giants that pervade the California wine industry

have been inconspicuous in this corner of the Pacific Northwest. That may soon change with the recent purchase of large vineyard tracts by Jackson Family Estates and Maison Louis Jadot.

It's a family affair at Maysara where Moe Momtazi, his wife Flora and his daughters Naseem, Tahmiene and Hanna handle virtually everything at their fully organic, certified biodynamic winery in McMinnville. Winemaker Tahmiene uses the pure fruit sourced from the highly regarded Momtazi vineyard to craft a deft, complex Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir ($27) and the deep, toothsome Maysara Asha Pinot Noir ($38). She also has a knack with whites, too, making a crisp and refined Maysara Arsheen Pinot Gris ($16).

Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker are the dynamic husband and wife team behind Boedecker Cellars on the outskirts of Portland. Not surprisingly, the wines that each one makes are a reflection of their personalities. Athena likes wines to be joyful and bold: her Boedecker Cellars Pinot Noir Athena ($32) displays the black fruits and rich textures that she enjoys. The cerebral Stewart utilizes his preference for Pommard clones in crafting the silky Boedecker Cellars Pinot Noir Stewart ($29) with layered red fruit and mineral nuances. Their Boedecker Cellars Stoller Vineyard Pinot Noir bottling ($44) is an exceptional offering from the Dundee Hills AVA.

They also make terrific whites under their Pappas Wine Company label, including a juicy Pappas Pinot Blanc ($16) and zesty Pappas Pinot Gris ($16).

Ex-Sperry Univac software guru Dave Grooters caught the winemaking bug back in the 90s and set up shop in the village of Carlton. He counts his friend and neighbor, Willamette icon Ken Wright, as a mentor and major influence. Dave's winery, Carlton Cellars, sources its fruit primarily from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Total production for the winery is less than 5,000 cases. Dave fashions three very pure and linear Pinot

Noir expressions: Carlton Cellars Seven Devils ($20), Cape Lookout ($30) and Road's End ($45). The latter is produced from just 12 barrels each year.

Pinot Noir fans have a recent string of successful Oregon vintages to choose from too.

For delicate, food centric wines with lovely perfumes, the fresh of vintages 2010 and 2011 will more than suffice. For wines with richer yet balanced profiles, 2008, 2009 and 2012 offer plenty of fruit without being heavy or overripe.

As a side note, no trip to Willamette Valley is complete without a pilgrimage to Nick’s Italian Cafe in McMinnville. Since 1977, Nick’s has been a nexus for many of the great winemaking names in the region, including legends like Dick Ponzi and David Lett who frequented founder Nick Peirano’s restaurant over the years.

Today, the restaurant is run by Nick’s daughter Carmen. It has one of the top wine lists in the valley and also makes delicious food including some of the best wood oven pizzas found anywhere. The pear and gorgonzola and sausage and cippolini versions are a must.

Maysara Winery Jim and Pinot Noir vines

8989 South Orange Ave.

Orlando, Florida 32824

W I N E T O W A T C H :

L’Orangerie de C A R I G N A NB L E N D :

60% MERLOT20% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% CABERNET FRANC

A R O M A :

Ripe red fruits black currant AND RED CURRANT

B O D Y :

SUPPLE AND

balanced

F I N I S H :

SOFT TANNINS

SMOOTH C O L O R :

DEEP PURPLE

B E S T T O D R I N K W I T H :

GRILLED MEATSPASTA, MIXED SALADS,

AGED CHEESESF L A V O R :

F R U I T Y BLUEBERRIES BLACK CHERRY