Wildly indulgent safari aHOT DEALS€¦ · through the African bush - the wind in your hair, golden...

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12 KATHERINE TIMES, WEDNESDAY JANUARY 29, 2014 www.katherinetimes.com.au HOT DEALS BOURN ULTIMATUM Seabourn Sojourn's 2014 Signature Savings Event promotion features savings on an array of voyages throughout 2014 and 2015 - complementary verandah suite upgrades, discounts of up to 15 per cent when combining cruises and shipboard credit of $US1000 ($1135) a suite for penthouse and premium suites. For example, free upgrade to a verandah suite on Seabourn's 10-day cruise from Piraeus (Athens) to Monte Carlo on May 23, from $5599 a person twin share. www.seabourn.com GIVE IT A TWIRL Strictly Ballroom The Musical plays at the Sydney Lyric Theatre from March 25. Metro Apartments Darling Harbour is running a Strictly Ballroom Special - two nights for $219 a night Sunday to Thursday and $319 a night Friday and Saturday night - and a bottle of wine a room. Metro is near the theatre and has some water views, 32 recently renovated one- bedroom apartments, each with a queen- sized bed and sofa bed, full kitchen and laundry facilities. The offer is valid while the show is on and for two-night stays only. www.metrohotels.com.au EAST MEETS WEST Two April sailings of Uniworld's 16-day cruise from Istanbul to Vienna are on sale, offering savings of up to $4800 a person. Departures are April 7 and 16 and are now priced from $5629 per person, including all gratuities, meals and beverages airport transfers, shore excursions and Signature Lectures, internet and Wi-Fi and use of bicycles and Nordic sticks. www.uniworldcruises.com.au SNAP IT UP Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn and Gagudju Lodge Cooinda at Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory, is offering stays of three nights for the price of two. Two children under 12 can stay and eat (with at least one paying adult) for free in this 3 Pay 2 Package, which also includes a Price Yellow Waters Cruise for half price and 25 per cent off Gagudju Adventure tours. The Holiday Inn has been recently refurbished, while the Lodge Cooinda is a bush resort. The package costs $300 per room, for the three nights and is valid for stays until February 28. www.gagudju-dreaming.com Wildly indulgent safari a great holiday experience Holidaying safari style is out of this world, writes Louise Southerden. ‘U p rock, up rock,” says our ranger, Sean, into the two-way radio as he navigates the vehicle up a steep driveway to our lodge atop a rare hill in this north-eastern corner of South Africa. We could be at an exclusive private residence and, in a way, we are. Ulusaba - “place of little fear” in Shangaan - is Sir Richard Branson’s safari lodge and one of 21 private lodges and game reserves in the 65,000-hectare Sabi Sands Game Reserve, whose fenceless eastern boundary adjoins Kruger National Park. Our domain for the week is the 5000- hectare Ulusaba Private Game Reserve as well as several neighbouring private game reserves in western Sabi Sands. No sooner have we settled into our room with a view of the lowveld than we’re meeting our fellow guests over scones and iced tea, and climbing into the Land Rover again for our first game drive. “Down rock, down rock,” Sean says into the radio, which crackles to life with the voices of rangers from other lodges calling in animal sightings, though we also have our own tracker, James, in the jump seat on our vehicle’s front bumper. Few travel experiences can beat the simple joy of riding in an open-topped vehicle through the African bush - the wind in your hair, golden morning or late afternoon light gilding everything you see, your camera at the ready - particularly in a game reserve closed to day-trippers and self-drive safaris. This is one of the best places in Africa to safari and see leopards, the most elusive of the Big Five. It’s a thrill to see them almost every day: a lone male walking with silent grace through dry grass that crunches noisily when we drive off-road after it; a mother and cub feasting on a duiker (a small antelope); another male up a tree with a kill as three spotted hyenas patrol for leftovers below. We are a wildlife documentary in motion. As we look - at giraffes, cheetahs, elephants, zebra, Cape hunting dogs - we learn. When we find three white rhino, Sean tells us about Sabi Sands’ pioneering anti- poaching moves, such as injecting rhinos’ horns with dyes and toxins to make them worthless on the black market. A record 704 rhinos were killed in South Africa last year, up from 668 in 2012, and scientists fear that, if poaching continues, wild rhinos will be extinct within a decade. “It’s crazy, because the horns are just keratin, like our fingernails,” says Sean. “They have no medicinal value whatsoever.” Before we get used to the 5am wake-up calls, the hours between morning and evening game drives pass in a languid blur: breakfast, swim, lunch, nap. It’d be hard to imagine a more comfortable place to spend them than Ulusaba’s Rock Lodge, which has perfected the art of lived-in luxury. Curl up with a book on a comfy couch in the main lounge. Help yourself to drinks at the bar. It really does feel like someone’s home, albeit one where you are escorted back to your room after dark in case of leopards, and where you shut doors and windows to guard against raiding baboons. I join a morning tour of a village just outside Sabi Sands to see schools, community centres, water pumps and health centres built by Ulusaba’s Pride ’n’ Purpose charity. At one primary school, the children take turns introducing themselves: "My name is Neste! I am six years old! I am a girl! I am very special! Thank you!" Another day, we have afternoon tea at Ulusaba’s other lodge. It might not have the views and cool breezes of Rock Lodge, but Safari Lodge offers an intimate experience of the South African bush with its swing bridges, treehouse suites and verandahs beside a dam frequented by hippos and elephants. Whichever lodge you stay in (and guests often stay a few days in each), you’ll find luxury in details: a zebra-patterned rubber duck (a Branson trademark) on the rim of your bath, pre-stamped postcards (leave them at the bar for posting), chilled towels after each dusty game drive. Every night, we dine at a long communal table on the deck, the menu exceeded only by the safari setting: white linen tablecloths, kerosene lamps and fleece wraps on the backs of chairs. One morning, on a game drive, we leave the vehicle for an impromptu walk with Sean and his loaded rifle. Following him in silent single file, I am suddenly all ears, eyes and nerves. Being on foot in a place where you’ve recently seen large predators heightens the senses like nothing else. On our last evening drive, up a sandy riverbed, we come across a pride of lions - three males, three females and eight six- month-old cubs - devouring a buffalo they’d killed that afternoon. Sean cuts the engine. We are sitting in an open-sided vehicle with no roof next to 14 lions, including a male with paws the size of saucers sprawled on the grass close enough for us to touch his golden mane (not that we would). He yawns, looks right at us, flops back down. No one speaks; I hardly dare breathe. Cubs with bloodied faces clamber onto the side of the buffalo. A lioness growls at them when they get in her way. Beautiful as its lodges are, this is the real luxury of Ulusaba: the privilege of close-up encounters with wild animals where they have always been, where they belong. After what seems like hours, Sean gives us a nod, starts the engine and drives back to Rock Lodge as the first stars appear in a clear African sky. The writer was a guest of Virgin Limited Edition and South African Tourism. >> travel TYING THE KNOT? CELEBRATING A BIRTHDAY? Have your photos published in the Katherine Times - let us know on 8972 1111 so we can send one of our photographers or email your photos to [email protected] HAVING A BUSINESS FUNCTION? AW1240175

Transcript of Wildly indulgent safari aHOT DEALS€¦ · through the African bush - the wind in your hair, golden...

Page 1: Wildly indulgent safari aHOT DEALS€¦ · through the African bush - the wind in your hair, golden morning or late afternoon light gilding everything you see, your camera at the

12 KATHERINE TIMES, WEDNESDAY JANUARY 29, 2014 www.katherinetimes.com.au

HOT DEALSBOURN ULTIMATUMSeabourn Sojourn's 2014Signature Savings Eventpromotion features savings onan array of voyages throughout2014 and 2015 - complementaryverandah suite upgrades,discounts of up to 15 per centwhen combining cruises andshipboard credit of $US1000($1135) a suite for penthouseand premium suites. Forexample, free upgrade to averandah suite on Seabourn's10- day cruise from Piraeus(Athens) to Monte Carlo on May23, from $5599 a person twinshare.❑ www.seabourn.com

GIVE IT A TWIRLStrictly Ballroom The Musicalplays at the Sydney LyricTheatre from March 25. MetroApartments Darling Harbour isrunning a Strictly BallroomSpecial - two nights for $219 anight Sunday to Thursday and$319 a night Friday andSaturday night - and a bottle ofwine a room. Metro is near thetheatre and has some waterviews, 32 recently renovatedone- bedroom apartments, eachwith a queen- sized bed andsofa bed, full kitchen andlaundry facilities.The offer is valid while the showis on and for two- night staysonly.❑ www.metrohotels.com.au

EAST MEETS WESTTwo April sailings of Uniworld's16- day cruise from Istanbul toVienna are on sale, offeringsavings of up to $4800 aperson. Departures are April 7and 16 and are now priced from$5629 per person, including allgratuities, meals and beveragesairport transfers, shoreexcursions and SignatureLectures, internet and Wi- Fiand use of bicycles and Nordicsticks.❑ www.uniworldcruises.com.au

SNAP IT UPGagudju Crocodile Holiday Innand Gagudju Lodge Cooinda atKakadu National Park, NorthernTerritory, is offering stays ofthree nights for the price oftwo. Two children under 12 canstay and eat (with at least onepaying adult) for free in this 3Pay 2 Package, which alsoincludes a Price Yellow WatersCruise for half price and 25 percent off Gagudju Adventuretours. The Holiday Inn has beenrecently refurbished, while the Lodge Cooinda is a bushresort. The package costs $300per room, for the three nightsand is valid for stays untilFebruary 28.❑ www.gagudju- dreaming.com

Wildly indulgent safari agreat holiday experienceHolidaying safari style is out of thisworld, writes LLouise Southerden.

‘Up rock, up rock,” says our ranger,Sean, into the two-way radio as henavigates the vehicle up a

steep driveway to our lodge atop arare hill in this north-eastern cornerof South Africa.

We could be at an exclusiveprivate residence and, in a way, weare.

Ulusaba - “place of little fear” inShangaan - is Sir Richard Branson’ssafari lodge and one of 21 privatelodges and game reserves in the65,000-hectare Sabi Sands GameReserve, whose fenceless easternboundary adjoins Kruger NationalPark.

Our domain for the week is the 5000-hectare Ulusaba Private Game Reserve aswell as several neighbouring private gamereserves in western Sabi Sands.

No sooner have we settled into our roomwith a view of the lowveld than we’re meetingour fellow guests over scones and iced tea,and climbing into the Land Rover again forour first game drive.

“Down rock, down rock,” Sean says intothe radio, which crackles to life with thevoices of rangers from other lodges calling inanimal sightings, though we also have ourown tracker, James, in the jump seat on ourvehicle’s front bumper.

Few travel experiences can beat the simplejoy of riding in an open-topped vehiclethrough the African bush - the wind in yourhair, golden morning or late afternoon lightgilding everything you see, your camera atthe ready - particularly in a game reserveclosed to day-trippers and self-drive safaris.

This is one of the best places in Africa tosafari and see leopards, the most elusive ofthe Big Five.

It’s a thrill to see them almost every day: alone male walking with silent grace throughdry grass that crunches noisily when we driveoff-road after it; a mother and cub feastingon a duiker (a small antelope); another maleup a tree with a kill as three spotted hyenaspatrol for leftovers below.

We are a wildlife documentary in motion.As we look - at giraffes, cheetahs, elephants,zebra, Cape hunting dogs - we learn.

When we find three white rhino, Sean tellsus about Sabi Sands’ pioneering anti-poaching moves, such as injecting rhinos’horns with dyes and toxins to make themworthless on the black market.

A record 704 rhinos were killed in SouthAfrica last year, up from 668 in 2012, andscientists fear that, if poaching continues,wild rhinos will be extinct within a decade.

“It’s crazy, because the horns are justkeratin, like our fingernails,” says Sean. “Theyhave no medicinal value whatsoever.”

Before we get used to the 5am wake-upcalls, the hours between morning and

evening game drives pass in a languid blur:breakfast, swim, lunch, nap.

It’d be hard to imagine a morecomfortable place to spend them thanUlusaba’s Rock Lodge, which has perfectedthe art of lived-in luxury.

Curl up with a book on a comfy couch inthe main lounge. Help yourself to drinks atthe bar.

It really does feel like someone’s home,albeit one where you are escorted back toyour room after dark in case of leopards, andwhere you shut doors and windows to guardagainst raiding baboons.

I join a morning tour of a village justoutside Sabi Sands to see schools,community centres, water pumps and healthcentres built by Ulusaba’s Pride ’n’ Purposecharity. At one primary school, the childrentake turns introducing themselves: "Myname is Neste! I am six years old! I am a girl! Iam very special! Thank you!"

Another day, we have afternoon tea atUlusaba’s other lodge. It might not have theviews and cool breezes of Rock Lodge, butSafari Lodge offers an intimate experience ofthe South African bush with its swingbridges, treehouse suites and verandahsbeside a dam frequented by hippos andelephants.

Whichever lodge you stay in (and guestsoften stay a few days in each), you’ll findluxury in details: a zebra-patterned rubberduck (a Branson trademark) on the rim ofyour bath, pre-stamped postcards (leavethem at the bar for posting), chilled towelsafter each dusty game drive.

Every night, we dine at a long communal

table on the deck, the menu exceeded onlyby the safari setting: white linen tablecloths,kerosene lamps and fleece wraps on thebacks of chairs.

One morning, on a game drive, we leavethe vehicle for an impromptu walk with Seanand his loaded rifle.

Following him in silent single file, I amsuddenly all ears, eyes and nerves.

Being on foot in a place where you’verecently seen large predators heightens thesenses like nothing else.

On our last evening drive, up a sandyriverbed, we come across a pride of lions -three males, three females and eight six-month-old cubs - devouring a buffalo they’dkilled that afternoon. Sean cuts the engine.

We are sitting in an open-sided vehiclewith no roof next to 14 lions, including amale with paws the size of saucers sprawledon the grass close enough for us to touch hisgolden mane (not that we would).

He yawns, looks right at us, flops backdown. No one speaks; I hardly dare breathe.

Cubs with bloodied faces clamber ontothe side of the buffalo. A lioness growls atthem when they get in her way.

Beautiful as its lodges are, this is the realluxury of Ulusaba: the privilege of close-upencounters with wild animals where theyhave always been, where they belong.

After what seems like hours, Sean gives usa nod, starts the engine and drives back toRock Lodge as the first stars appear in a clearAfrican sky.

❑ The writer was a guest of Virgin LimitedEdition and South African Tourism.

>> travel

TYING THE KNOT?CELEBRATING A BIRTHDAY?

Have your photos published in the Katherine Times - let usknow on 8972 1111 so we can send one of our photographers or email your photos [email protected]

HAVINGA

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AW12

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