What’s Eating my Flowers? · marigolds and garden chrysanthemums or wait until October to plant...

8
Upcoming September/October Classes September & October Canning Classes: Pre-registration and pre-payment is required for all classes. Cost is $20 per person unless otherwise noted. Call Jeannie (904) 255-7450 to register. Saturday, Sept. 15, Chocolate Raspberry Ice Cream Topping, 9 am—Noon Monday, Sept. 17, Vegetable Soup & Bread, 9 am—1 pm * Saturday, October 13, Apple Wedges in Cinnamon Red Hot Syrup, 9 am—Noon Saturday, October 27, Chicken in a Can-Homemade Noodles, 9 am—1 pm* *Product prepared using glass jars or metal cans. Saturday, September 8, 10 am - 12:30 pm, “Make Your Landscape more Florida-Friendly,” Duval County Ex- tension Office. Learn the 9 principles of Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ and request a visit to your Duval yard by the Yard Advisor Team. Cost is $10. Call Sarah 255-7450 to pre-pay and pre-register. Wednesday, September 19, 6 - 8 pm, “Falling into Winter,” Pablo Creek Library, 13295 Beach Boulevard. Learn about fall lawn/landscaping chores, what to plant, and more, before winter sets in. Free program, but pre- registration is requested. Call Sarah 255-7450. Wednesday, September 26, 10 am - 1 pm, “MandarinMatchmaker.com,” Mandarin Gar- den Club, 2892 Loretto Rd. Topics include “Match the Tool with the Job,” “Which Plants Make Good Companions,” and “Correct Garden Mistakes.” Cost is $10. Call Sarah to pre-register. Wednesday, October 10, 10 am - noon, “Microgreens and Wildflowers,” Duval County Extension Office. Hands-on planting of microgreens to take home. Learn how and when to plant wildflowers. Cost is $10. Call Sarah to pre-pay and pre-register. Things to do in September/October Page 2 What to plant in September/October Page 3 Save $ on Irrigation Page 3 Lawn Caterpillars Are Active Page 4 A Successful Garden Takes Planning Page 5 Signs of a Hazardous Tree Page 7 Mealy Bugs Page 8 Garden Planning cont. Page 6 What’s Eating my Flowers? If you have a bottlebrush plant and you have flowers lying on the ground beneath the tree, you might wonder what happened. Wonder no more...the squirrel in the picture was caught red- handed. This eastern gray squirrel is enjoying a bit of nectar from the flowers. The squirrel makes a clean cut, then the sits in the crotch of one of the branches and feeds on the nectar. When finished, he/she drops it to the ground to decay. From a homeowner standpoint, it seems such a waste. Their diet consists of nuts, fruits, berries, insects and bird eggs. They also chew wood to clean, sharpen, and maintain their teeth, and sometimes they use it for food and moisture. Volume 19, Issue 5 September/October 2018 In this Issue If you receive the newsletter, expect a Qualtrics survey within the next week. The information gathered helps us to improve our newsletter and helps with future funding. Please respond promptly so we can determine if this newsletter was helpful.

Transcript of What’s Eating my Flowers? · marigolds and garden chrysanthemums or wait until October to plant...

Upcoming September/October Classes September & October Canning Classes: Pre-registration and pre-payment is required for all classes. Cost is $20 per person unless otherwise noted. Call Jeannie (904) 255-7450 to register. Saturday, Sept. 15, Chocolate Raspberry Ice Cream Topping, 9 am—Noon Monday, Sept. 17, Vegetable Soup & Bread, 9 am—1 pm * Saturday, October 13, Apple Wedges in Cinnamon Red Hot Syrup, 9 am—Noon Saturday, October 27, Chicken in a Can-Homemade Noodles, 9 am—1 pm*

*Product prepared using glass jars or metal cans. Saturday, September 8, 10 am - 12:30 pm, “Make Your Landscape more Florida-Friendly,” Duval County Ex-tension Office. Learn the 9 principles of Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ and request a visit to your Duval yard by the Yard Advisor Team. Cost is $10. Call Sarah 255-7450 to pre-pay and pre-register. Wednesday, September 19, 6 - 8 pm, “Falling into Winter,” Pablo Creek Library, 13295 Beach Boulevard. Learn about fall lawn/landscaping chores, what to plant, and more, before winter sets in. Free program, but pre-registration is requested. Call Sarah 255-7450. Wednesday, September 26, 10 am - 1 pm, “MandarinMatchmaker.com,” Mandarin Gar-den Club, 2892 Loretto Rd. Topics include “Match the Tool with the Job,” “Which Plants Make Good Companions,” and “Correct Garden Mistakes.” Cost is $10. Call Sarah to pre-register. Wednesday, October 10, 10 am - noon, “Microgreens and Wildflowers,” Duval County Extension Office. Hands-on planting of microgreens to take home. Learn how and when to plant wildflowers. Cost is $10. Call Sarah to pre-pay and pre-register.

Things to do in September/October

Page 2

What to plant in September/October

Page 3

Save $ on Irrigation Page 3

Lawn Caterpillars Are Active

Page 4

A Successful Garden Takes Planning

Page 5

Signs of a Hazardous Tree

Page 7

Mealy Bugs Page 8

Garden Planning cont. Page 6

What’s Eating my Flowers? If you have a bottlebrush plant and you have flowers lying on the ground beneath the tree, you might wonder what happened. Wonder no more...the squirrel in the picture was caught red-handed. This eastern gray squirrel is enjoying a bit of nectar from the flowers. The squirrel makes a clean cut, then the sits in the crotch of one of the branches and feeds on the nectar. When finished, he/she drops it to the ground to decay. From a homeowner standpoint, it seems such a waste. Their diet consists of nuts, fruits, berries, insects and bird eggs. They also chew wood to clean, sharpen, and maintain their teeth, and sometimes they use it for food and moisture.

Volume 19, Issue 5 September/October 2018

In this Issue

If you receive the newsletter, expect a Qualtrics survey within the next week. The

information gathered helps us to improve our newsletter

and helps with future funding. Please respond

promptly so we can determine if this newsletter

was helpful.

Things to do in September/October by Terry DelValle PAGE 2

Flowers Divide overcrowded perennial plants like

amaryllis to improve flowering and plant quality. Start ten weeks of short-day treatment for Christ-

mas cactus in mid-October to enjoy blooms at Christmas.

Apply last fertilization to poinsettias in late September and shelter from light exposure at night. Last pinch to shoot tips can be made the 1st week in September.

Scout for insect and disease problems. Aphids, mealy bugs, whiteflies and other insect populations can build up quickly.

Fruits and Nuts Harvest season for grapes comes to a close as

other fruits like Persimmons and Pecans begin their season. Satsumas ripen around late October, especially if we start getting cooler weather.

Fertilize fruit trees/shrubs in September as a final application. Wait to fertilize Persimmons because they may drop fruit if fertilized now.

Check grafted plants to make sure no growth develops below the graft union. Graft unions are usually 6” above the soil level and a swollen area is usually noticeable.

Lawns Keep up with lawn mowing - Sharpen those

mower blades and remove no more than 1/3 the height at each mowing. Leave the clippings on the grass unless you are bagging to collect weed seed heads or the lawn has disease problems. Keep grass clippings out of drainage ditches, off hard surfaces, and out of water bodies.

Fertilize lawns going into the winter using a product with equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium and no more than 2% phos-phorous (15-0-15 or 18-2-18). Check the label to determine the appropriate amount to

apply or go to http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep236. Apply 1/4” water following application. Do not apply fertilizer prior to a heavy rainfall or potential storm.

Got weeds? Now’s the time to spot treat for perennial weeds. Hand-pulling is still the best option if a weed is setting seed like chamberbitter. If cool season weeds were a problem last year, treat area with a pre-emergence herbicide when

air temperatures reach 65 to 70ºF for 4 to 5

consecutive days (early October). Check out http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP141 for more weed control info.

Scout lawns for pest problems - Chinch bugs and lawn caterpillars are still active. See http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in383 (for chinch bugs), and http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_lawn_armyworms.

Trees & Shrubs Do not prune spring blooming shrubs or trees

now or there will be no flowers next spring. Scout ornamental plants for scale, grasshop-

pers, caterpillars, whiteflies, and leaf beetles. If treatment is needed, treat only the affected area and use a Florida-Friendly insecticide (soaps, oils, neem, BT) to protect beneficial insects. Grass-hoppers are laying eggs so to avoid higher num-bers next year, kill them manually because insect-icides are not effective.

Fertilize trees and shrubs, if needed, in September. If trees have been in the landscape for over three years and are surrounded by lawn and/or shrub beds, no additional fertilizer is needed if those areas are fertilized. If plants look healthy and growth is adequate, skip this application.

Avoid overpruning palm trees - Repeated overpruning of palms will lead to a smaller trunk diameter. See other negative ef-fects from over-pruning in this publication: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep443.

Put new plants in landscape now. Cooler weather will make it easier to get roots estab-lished. Make sure to call 811 BEFORE you DIG and don’t plant too deep!

Vegetable Garden Start cool season transplants for fall gardens.

This is one of the best times to garden in north Florida. If you don’t have a traditional garden, consider planting a few edibles in landscape beds or try growing in a container.

Clean out fading plants ASAP! Don’t leave old vegetable plants in the garden as they will lead to future problems for the next crop (especially nem-atodes and diseases). Get them out of there and add organic matter to the soil so it’s ready for the fall garden.

Apply magnesium sulfate to plants like this crape myrtle that is displaying 

classic magnesium deficiency. Also check soil 

pH. 

What to Plant in September/October by Terry DelValle

PAGE 3

For instant color now, plant coleus, marigolds and garden chrysanthemums or wait until October to plant cool season flowers like dianthus, lobelia, pansy, petunia, phlox, shasta

daisy, snapdragon, viola, statice, flowering kale, and cabbage. Marigolds are an inexpensive alternative to chrysanthemums, and will frequently provide fall color for a longer period. Wait until the heat subsides in late October to plant pansies and violas.

Several perennials will begin their flowering process as the days get shorter. Mexican sage and ‘Compton’s Pride’ are two of the saliva types that flower in

response to short days. Note the fuzzy purple flowers with the dark purple-black calyces. Another plant to watch for is the Philippine violet, Baleria cristata,

which is a mass of blue or white flowers. Bulbs or bulb-types to plant include amaryllis, Aztec lily, calla, grape hyacinth, iris, lachenalia (leopard lily), narcissus, snowflake, watsonia, and zephyr lily (rain lily). In October add to the list African lily(Agapanthus), daffodil, gladiolus, kaffir lily, lily, marica (walking iris), moraea, society garlic, spider lily, anemone, hyacinth, pineapple lily, and Star-of-Bethlehem. If wet soil becomes the norm this fall, pull up caladium tubers to prevent the tubers from rotting, and store in a cool dry area until early spring. For northern-type bulbs (tulips and hyacinths), buy in October and store in the refrigerator for about 60 days. Plant bulbs immediately upon removal. Keep them away from ripening fruit during storage. Many are available pre-chilled, but be sure to check before purchasing. In September, plant bush beans, pole beans, cucumbers, summer squash, tomatoes, beets,* broccoli,* Brussels sprouts,* cabbage,* carrots,* cauliflower,* collards,* endive, kale,* kohlrabi,* leek,* lettuce,* mustard,* onions,* parsley,* radish,* and turnips.* Add to the list for October those with an asterisk listed above, plus Chinese cabbage and spinach. For more information on vegetables, go to http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vh021.

Now is a good time to save money on water bills. September and October are often very wet months and plants frequently get too much water. If

rains continue, turn the system off. Irrigation systems with a rain sensor device will run the next day even if soils are saturated. Unless the irrigation system is connected to a soil moisture sensor, it will continue to run even if the rain sensor device has dried out. Plants are frequently damaged by too much water. Oxygen is required around the root zone for plants to uptake water and nutrients, plus roots are susceptible

to diseases. Once the root system is damaged, the plants wilt because they are unable to take up water. Symptoms often do not show up for months and sometimes not until next summer when hot/dry weather returns. Rain barrels or cisterns can be used to take advantage of rainfall. Rain water is much better for plants because it lacks chemical additives. Many plants are sensitive to fluorides and other chemicals added by water providers and water softeners.

Save Money on Irrigation by Terry DelValle If soils are

saturated, this rain sensor device will

not prevent the irrigation system

from running; turn the system off

Coleus ‘Lemon Twist’

Cauliflower Cheddar

Salvia mexicana ‘Compton’s Pride’

Gray leaf spot is a common leaf spot disease on St.Augustinegrass in wet summer months Photo: Phil Harmon UF/IFAS

The Brandywine tomato plant is an heirloom, with potato-leaved foliage and bears large beefsteak-shaped fruit.

Lawn Caterpillars are Active by Terry DelValle

PAGE 4

This is the time of year that lawn caterpillars are active. Anyone that has walked across their lawn lately has witnessed a multitude of dingy-colored moths flying about. The most common Florida lawn caterpillars are tropical sod webworm, fall armyworm, striped looper, and fiery skipper. If you suspect caterpillars, look at the grass blades to see if there are notches chewed along the sides. Tropical sod webworm caterpillars cut off grass blades just above the thatch line, pull blades into their

tunnels, and eat them. Grass blades may be completely stripped in patches, and areas will turn yellow to brown. Most of these caterpillars feed at night and rest in a curled or C-position on or near

the soil surface during the day. Look at the soil/thatch area for the caterpillars and silken webs, or for small green or brown pellets of excrement (frass). Adults are small tan to gray moths that rest in shrubs during the day. Still can’t find them? Try check-

ing your lawn at night with a flashlight when they are actively feeding. Another way to inspect for insects is to flush the affected area with soapy water. Mix two Tbsp. of liquid dishwashing soap in a two gallon sprinkling can full of water and drench a two square foot area. If caterpillars, chinch bugs or mole crickets are present, they will come to the surface in two to three minutes. Fall armyworm larvae can be green or brown and measure 1 1/2” long. They develop light stripes that follow the length of their body, and dark spots as they mature. They can also be identified by the inverted “Y” at the top of their head. Their favorite food is grass, but they also feed on a host of agronomic and vege-table crops like corn, peanuts, sugarcane, wheat, and more. Adult moths are larger than sod web-worms, with a wingspan of 1 1/2”. They are gray to brown in color.

Control of Caterpillars Avoid using water soluble, quick-release nitrogen fertilizers to make the lawn less succulent. Good maintenance practices, like mowing at the proper height, will help the lawn bounce back from caterpillar damage. There are lots of beneficial insects that feed on caterpillars like ants, ground beetles, rove beetles, spiders and parasitic wasps. Any pesticide control methods should target the small caterpillar stage, not the large caterpillars or the moths. Treatments are most effective if applied at dusk or early evening when the caterpillars are just beginning to feed. Do not irrigate after application because these insects are surface feeders. Do not cut grass for one to three days after application of the product. Examples of pesticides that are effective on turf caterpillars include those with the following active ingredients: Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), bifenthrin, carbaryl, lambda-cyhalothrin, and Spinosad (Conserve). Bt should be applied as a liquid, and is only toxic to caterpillars, so it will not have negative effects on beneficial insects. However, it is only effective on early instar caterpillars (small). Carbaryl is extremely toxic to bees, so if used, make sure to spray at dusk when bees are not active, and only use liquid formulations.

For more info on tropical sod webworms: http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/ORN/TURF/

Tropical_sod_webworm.htm

For more info on fall armyworms: http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/field/

fall_armyworm.htm

Tropical sod webworm larvae (top) adult (bottom)

Fall armyworm larvae (top) adult (bottom)

PAGE 5

It takes planning to have a successful garden and now is the time to evaluate your site. Location: Full sun, ideally 6-8 hours of sun Consider your water source Avoid tree roots Do you plan on growing in the ground, in raised

beds and/or in containers? Test soil pH: When growing in the ground, it is a necessity to

know what your pH is. Vegetables grow best in a slightly acidic soil in a

range from 5.8 to 6.2. The Duval County Extension Office will test your

soil pH for free. Go to:http://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/duval/ and search for “Soil pH Testing Form.”

Amend Soil: Work the top 10”-12” of the soil at least three

weeks before planting. Spread a minimum of 3”-4” of organic matter,

composted animal manure or compost, and work it into the top 6”-12”.

Raised Bed: Good for dealing with poor soil or drainage For details, go to this publication “Gardening in

Raised Beds,” which can be found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep472 Container Culture: Use a soilless mix labeled for containers or make

your own. To grow a healthy root system, use a good potting

soil that has a “nice and fluffy” texture. It also should hold water as needed but drain completely through.

Potting Mixes for Certified Organic Production: https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/viewhtml.php?id=47 For more information, go to http://

gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/growing-vegetables-in-containers.html

Select the Vegetables: Now is the time to get started. Choose disease-resistant varieties recommended

for our area. Start your own transplants from seed.

Choose transplants if you don’t have time to start plants from seed.

Refer to “Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide,” Table 1, for crops that transplant easily or should be direct-seeded: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vh021. Cool-season vegetables prefer daytime temperatures between 60°F and 80°F, and lose quality in hot weather. Many favorites that grow best in our cool weather are referred to as cole crops. Cole crops are in the Brassicaceae (Cruciferae) family and include broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard greens, and turnips. It is believed that all of the cole crops within B. oleracea evolved from a wild cabbage-like plant that was native to the British Isles and to the Mediterranean area of Europe. All cabbage varieties are round with layers of tightly held leaves against a short, thick stem. These leaves form a head, some smooth or curled. Cabbages are separated into three general categories:

1) Green, with smooth leaves 2) Red, with purplish leaves 3) Savoy, with crinkly green leaves Related varieties of cabbage are inflorescent (flowering) cabbage and stem cabbage:

Inflorescent: - Broccoli - Cauliflower Stem: - Kohlrabi - Collards - Kale - Chinese cabbage

A Successful Garden Takes Planning by Mary Puckett

Kale, Red Russian 

Cabbage, Kalibos European Variety 

 

PAGE 6

The Invaders Among Us By Larry Figart

Chinese Tallow 

Coral Ardisia  Photo by Chris Evans, Bugwood.org  

PAGE 6

PAGE 6

Planning a Successful garden continued... by Mary Puckett

They prefer soils with a pH of 6-6.5; yield will be reduced if the soil pH is below 6. Refer to the “Florida Vegetable Guide,” Table 1, for recommended spacing. For example, if broccoli is spaced too closely, it will have small heads and fewer side sprouts. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage can be grown in both spring and fall, but fall planting is more successful because very early spring planting is often delayed by wet or cold weather. If spring planting is delayed, the plants are at risk of being exposed to weather that is too hot before they mature. Broccoli: Needs rich soil, even moisture, and cool weather. Cultivation should be shallow. Green buds develop first in one large central head.

Harvest head before flowers open. Cut central head with 5”-6” of stem, which will stimulate side shoots for later pickings.

Cabbage: Requires ample moisture and fertilizer. Fertilize at

planting. It will benefit from regular applications, especially just before the head starts to form.

May be the least finicky of the cool-season crops. Roots develop near surface of soil and run almost

horizontally across the rows. Be mindful when cultivating.

Use a collar to protect tender seedlings from worms.

Cauliflower: Requires even moisture. Uneven moisture leads

to smaller heads and less flavor. Plants are cold hardy, heads are not. Heads are sensitive to freeze and extreme heat. Unless self-blanching varieties are planted,

blanching is required to protect the curd (head). To blanch, tie the outside leaves together over the head when 2”-3” in diameter.

Resources: University of Florida Texas A&M http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu Saddleback College of Horticulture http://www.saddleback.edu/atas/Horticulture/ * - DTH refers to Days to Harvest; F1 is a hybrid

Protect tender transplants in the garden the first weeks with a

protective barrier. Could be a Styrofoam cup,

cardboard collar made out of toilet paper or paper towel tubes

cut to size.

Broccoli, Lieutenant F1 DTH: 55-65 * Produces a 6-8” head on a 24” tall plant with few side shoots. Well adapted to warm weather.

Cabbage, Caraflex F1 DTH: 68 * Mini cone-shape and pointed 1 to 1-1/2 lb. heads. Good wrapper leaves for insect and sun protection.

Cauliflower, Graffiti F1 DTH: 80 * Large flashy purple heads. Highly resistant to downy mildew. Handles rainy and humid climates and keeps its color even after cooking (reaching a shade of mauve).

PAGE 7

As the peak of hurricane season is upon us, it is a good idea to consider our landscape trees when it comes to storm readiness. It is easy to overlook our trees because the changes in the canopy are not things we notice right off the bat. It is important to have an ISA Certified Arborist inspect our landscape trees regularly. Before we get to the defects in trees let’s get through some definitions. A target is people or property that could be affected if a tree failure occurs. Risk, on the other hand, is the combination of the likelihood of a tree-failure event and the severity of the possible damage to the target. All trees pose some level of risk to nearby people, structures, and utilities. Typically, this risk is minimal and is far outweighed by the environmental, social, and economic benefits offered by the tree in question. If you notice any of the following defects, it should prompt an urgent call to an arborist to have your tree professionally evaluated.

Soil heaving on one side of the tree with a

depression on the other side This is a sign that the tree is loosing its grip on the soil. This could be from wind, waterlogged soil, improper planting, or root disease.

Dead or hanging Branches Most trees have a

few small dead branches in the canopy. However, large dead branches have the ability to cause significant damage should they fail. Branches that have already broken and are simply hanging in the tree are an accident waiting to happen.

Mushrooms growing from a root, or the base of the tree Mushrooms are found any time organic matter is decaying. Some are the fruiting bodies of serious root diseases. Any time you have a mushroom growing out of the root flare or a root, it should be inspected to see if it is a root decay fungi.

Dead Branches at

the Tips of the Canopy This is one of the most common signs of tree decline. The tree no longer has the ability to get water and nutrients to the top

of the crown so the tree dies from the top down. This can get significantly worse over time. Cracks in the trunk Horizontal cracks are signs of imminent failure and should be taken very seriously. Cracks along branch attachments may indicate included bark and branch failure. Deep vertical cracks in the trunk may be connected to hollows in the trunk, and are signs that the wood may be loosing strength.

To find an ISA Certified Arborist in your area, go to www.treesaregood.org and click on the link that says “Find an Arborist”.

Signs of a Hazardous Tree by Larry Figart , Urban Forestry Extension Agent

Crack Resulting from Included Bark.   

Photo by L. Figart 

Armillaria Root Disease Mushrooms in Tree. 

Photo by L. Figart 

Soil heaving  on one side and a           depression on the 

other side. Photo credit: Peter Bedker,  Bogwood.org 

Once you have read this newsletter, turn “A New Leaf” and pass this information on to a friend.

Terry B. DelValle Extension Agent-Environmental Horticulture

For individuals requiring special accommodations, please contact our office (904) 255-7450 within a minimum of 5 work-

ing days of the program. For persons with hearing or speech impairments, when contacting our office please use the Florida Relay Service at 1-800-955-8771 (TDD).

Extension programs are open to all, regardless of race, creed, color, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, age, disabil-

ity, religion, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no endorsement by the Extension Office is implied.

Mealy Bugs by Becky Wern, Master Gardener

UF/IFAS Duval County Extension 1010 N. McDuff Avenue Jacksonville, FL 32254

(904) 255-7450 Fax: (904) 387-8902

Website: http://duval.ifas.ufl.edu

Mealy bugs show up on salvia and other plants at this time every year. The small white specks are members of the scale family. These family members have no armor although they often have a waxy sub-stance to protect them. On some plants they

work with ants, which offer them protection in exchange for the sugary sweet substance they extrude. Nature is all about networking!

These pests are sucking out plant sap from your salvias, making them pale and weak. They also are potentially working as disease vectors, transferring diseases when they insert their mouthpieces into your plants. It’s important to remove them. If your salvia is a bit leggy, it’s a good strategy to cut it back at this time of the year. Cutting the pests out removes them

and their eggs. The plants will grow back through September, and be full of blooms in October and November. Cutting them back a bit will also allow for better air movement in these humid days, and this will help provide less positive conditions for any surviving mealybugs.

Chemically, you can treat the areas affected with a horticultural soap spray. Be careful about the temper-atures, as spraying when temperatures are over 90 degrees will result in burning the plant.

Mealy bugs are soft insects, and can also be killed by wiping them with rubbing alcohol. This is usually reserved for treating house plants, but if you have just a few bugs, it may also work outdoors.

Ladybugs are your best allies outdoors, with both adults and larvae consuming lots of mealybugs. Orthene, insecticidal soaps and insecticidal oils are possible tools but, again, note the sensitivity to high temperatures. Read the labels carefully. For more in-formation, check here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg005.

Let us help you with your landscape and gardening questions!

Call our Master Gardener Hotline at (904) 255-7450 Monday - Friday

9am - 12pm & 12:30pm - 3:30pm

Services include... Soil pH testing for Duval County residents

UF/IFAS publications on a variety of gardening topics Troubleshooting insect and disease problems

Plant/weed identification

Links for more information… http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/

Follow us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/

DuvalCountyAgriculture