West Coast Australia

Charles Rawlings-Way, Fleur Bainger, Anna Kaminski, Tasmin Waby, Steve Waters

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Broome &the Kimberley

p209

Ningaloo Coast& the Pilbara

p187

Monkey Mia& the

Central Westp169

Perth Regionp100

Margaret River & theSouthwest p125

South Coast WAp151

Perth p54

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to West Coast Australia . . . . 4

West Coast Australia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

West Coast Australia’s Top 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16

First Time West Coast Australia . . . .18

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Accommodation . . . . . . . 22

Getting Around . . . . . . . . 24

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Month by Month . . . . . . . 29

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Discover Margaret River & the Southwest . . . . . . . 38

West Coast Australia Outdoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . 48

Regions at a Glance . . . . .51

PERTH . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 73Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 89Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 93Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

PERTH REGION . . . . 100Rottnest Island . . . . . . . 102Rockingham . . . . . . . . . . 106Peel Region . . . . . . . . . . 107Mandurah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Dwellingup . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Perth Hills . . . . . . . . . . . 110Hyden & Wave Rock . . . . 111Swan Valley . . . . . . . . . . .112Guildford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Swan Valley Wine Region . . . . . . . . . . . 113Avon Valley . . . . . . . . . . .115Northam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Toodyay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117New Norcia . . . . . . . . . . .118Wildflower Way . . . . . . . .118Moora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Wongan Hills . . . . . . . . . . . 119Sunset Coast . . . . . . . . . 120Guilderton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Lancelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Turquoise Coast . . . . . . .121Cervantes & Pinnacles Desert . . . . . . . 122Jurien Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Green Head & Leeman . . .124

MARGARET RIVER & THE SOUTHWEST . . . . . . 125Bunbury Geographe . . . 127Bunbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Busselton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Margaret River Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131Dunsborough . . . . . . . . . . 131

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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Contents

Cape Naturaliste . . . . . . . 134Yallingup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Margaret River . . . . . . . . . 137Caves Road . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Augusta & Around . . . . . . 144Southern Forests . . . . . 146Nannup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Bridgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Manjimup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Pemberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148

SOUTH COAST WA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Walpole & Nornalup . . . . . 153Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Mt Barker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Porongurup National Park . . . . . . . . . . 162Stirling Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 163Bremer Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Fitzgerald River National Park . . . . . . . . . . 165Hopetoun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Esperance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

MONKEY MIA & THE CENTRAL WEST . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Batavia Coast . . . . . . . . . 171Dongara-Port Denison . . . .171Geraldton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Kalbarri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Kalbarri National Park . . . 178Shark Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 179Shark Bay Road . . . . . . . . 179

Denham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Monkey Mia . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Gascoyne Coast . . . . . . 183Carnarvon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Quobba Coast . . . . . . . . . . 185

NINGALOO COAST & THE PILBARA . . . .187Ningaloo Coast . . . . . . . 190Coral Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Exmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Exmouth Region . . . . . . . . 195Ningaloo Marine Park . . . 197Cape Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 199The Pilbara . . . . . . . . . . 200Karratha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Dampier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203Port Hedland . . . . . . . . . . .203Karijini National Park . . .205

BROOME & THE KIMBERLEY . . . 209The Kimberley . . . . . . . . 212Broome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Dampier Peninsula . . . . . . 222Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Devonian Reef National Parks . . . . . . . . . 227Gibb River Road . . . . . . . . 228Great Northern Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230Kununurra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Purnululu National Park & Bungle Bungle Range . . . . . . . . . . 236Wyndham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

Local Produce, Wine & Craft Beer . . . . 248

Mining & the Environment . . . . . . . . . 253

Indigenous Art in Western Australia . . . . . 258

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 262

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 272

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 286

SPECIAL FEATURESOff the Beaten Track Map . . . . . . . . . . 36

Discover Margaret River & the Southwest . . . . . . . . . . 38

West Coast Australia Outdoors . . . 42

Local Produce & Wineries Map . . . . . . 250

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

Cape Leeuwin Augusta

RottnestIsland

Balingup

Perth

I N D I A NO C E A N

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Dunsborough

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A Southwest Short Circuit

Pressed for time? This itinerary offers a taste of the best of the state – city life, colonial history, beaches, wildlife, wine, forests and lonesome rural roads.

Base yourself in Perth, either in the city centre or Fremantle, and spend three days exploring: don’t miss Fremantle Prison, Cottesloe Beach and Kings Park. Is the New Museum for Western Australia open yet? Ferry out for a day on Rottnest Island, then hire a car and head south, stopping first at Bunbury for a visit to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Continue on to Bunbury Geographe, basing yourself in either Busselton or Dunsborough, and spend the rest of the day at the beach. Pick up a map of the Mar-garet River Wine Region and spend day six checking out the wineries, surf beaches and caves, all of which are close by. Sleep in the Margaret River township that night. The next morning, head to Augusta via Caves Rd and take the scenic detour through the karri forest along unsealed Boranup Drive. Visit Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and Southern Oceans collide, before heading back to Bunbury on a picturesque rural drive through Nannup and Balingup. From here it’s a two-hour drive back to Perth.

1 WEEK

32©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western Australia’s southwest is a magical corner of the continent. This itinerary checks off the main highlights over three weeks – give it a month to really relax into it.

Spend three days in Perth and Fremantle – the WA Shipwrecks Museum is a must – then beach yourself for a day on Rottnest Island or hit the wineries in the underrated Perth Hills. Truck south to Geographe Bay – stopping at Rockingham to wade out to Shoalwater Islands Marine Park – before overnighting in Busselton. After a morn-ing walk along the town’s epic jetty, continue for two nights in Margaret River town-ship, exploring the local breweries, wineries, surf beaches and caves.

The following morning head to Augusta via Caves Rd, detouring along scenic Bo-ranup Drive with its karri trees. At Cape Leeuwin, pinpoint the exact spot where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, then continue to sleepy Pemberton. Don’t miss the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, visit the extraordinary Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk near Walpole and overnight in hippie-meets-city Denmark. Assess the beaches, wineries, breweries and restaurants here, before two days in history-rich Albany.

Head north for more Great Southern wineries at Mt Barker before tracking east to Porongurup National Park. Spend the next day (or two) tackling the mountainous tracks either here or at Stirling Range National Park.

Continue to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun – it’s a three-hour drive from the Stirling Range (spend the afternoon at the beach). The fol-lowing day, head back to the South Coast Hwy and continue east around 2½ hours for two days in Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park.

Back on the South Coast Hwy, turn north just past Ravensthorpe for Hyden and the curvilicious granite of Wave Rock – around four hours.

The following day, head west to the Avon Valley and classically colonial York. On your final day back to Perth, stop at the Swan Valley for craft beer and wineries.

3 WEEKS

York

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Hyden &Wave Rock

Mt Barker

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Denmark

Esperance

Albany

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Cape Le GrandNational ParkStirling Range

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This is the biggest adventure in the west, leaving Broome during the dry season and traversing the rugged heart of Kimberley by 4WD.

From Broome, the first stop is the Dampier Peninsula, with its Aboriginal commu-nities, beautiful beaches and mud crabs. It’s also your last saltwater swim. Take the back road to Derby and its boabs, then roll onto the Gibb River Road. Lennard River is the first of many inviting gorges here. Explore wildlife and more gorges at Mt Hart and remote Mornington Wilderness Camp, and look for examples of Wandjina art at Gal-vans Gorge and Mt Elizabeth Station. Turn off onto the Kalumburu Road, check the road conditions at Drysdale River and drive on to the Mitchell Plateau, with its forests of livistona and astonishing waterfalls. Discover the area’s ancient rock art before hitting the northern coast for some top-flight fishing at Honeymoon Bay, just beyond the mission community of Kalumburu.

Retrace your route back to the Gibb, then turn left for wonderful Home Valley Sta-tion, where soft beds make a happy change from camping. Nearby El Questro has gorg-es aplenty, none more beautiful than Emma Gorge near the resort. Soon you’re back on asphalt, but not for long as you take in the amazing birdlife of Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve. Let Wyndham’s Five Rivers Lookout blow your mind, before heading for the civility of Kununurra, with its excellent eateries. Canoe down the mighty Ord River, or jump back behind the wheel for the wonders of Purnululu National Park and the orange-domed Bungle Bungle Range.

Darwin and the Northern Territory are beckoning, or you can follow the Great North-ern Hwy back to Broome, stopping in at beautiful Geikie Gorge for a relaxing boat cruise: any freshwater crocs? There are plenty at nearby Windjana Gorge, sunning themselves on the riverbanks. En route, grab your torch and wade through the icy waters of Tunnel Creek National Park, with its bats and rock art. From Windjana, plant the pedal back to Broome, where the price of beer probably won’t bother you as much as it did a month ago.

4 WEEKS

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You’ll camp most of the way on this miss-ing link between Ningaloo and Broome, with long empty beaches, shady pools and some surprisingly good food.

From Exmouth, take Burkett Rd back to the highway and head north, turning off at Nanutarra for the long, scenic haul up to Tom Price. After stocking up, spend the next few days camped in Karijini Na-tional Park, exploring sublime gorges and engaging in a spot of peak-bagging among the state’s highest mountains. Don’t miss a swim at Hamersley Gorge en route to the relaxing, shady pools in Millstream Chichester National Park. Check out the mesas and breakaways of the Chichester Range before dropping down to the coast, assessing the petroglyphs at Murujuga, then on to lovely Point Samson for snor-kelling. Take the North West Coastal Hwy directly to Port Hedland and indulge in some urban eats before camping at remote Eighty Mile Beach, where you might spot nesting turtles. Your last leg is a long stretch of nothingness (how amazing!) as you skirt the Great Sandy Desert to ar-rive in tropical Broome.

1 WEEK

Jewels of the Pilbara

Beautiful beaches, spectacular sunsets and diverse wildlife are your constant compan-ions on this coastal cruise.

Take Indian Ocean Dr north from Perth to Cervantes for a crayfish dinner and sunset over the otherwordly Pinna-cles Desert. Assess the native blooms at Lesueur National Park, take your 4WD to the Stockyard Gully Caves, then hit the cafes and museums of Geraldton. Try kitesurfing on for size, then move on to the wonderful Kalbarri coastline. Paddle a canoe in the gorges before the long drive to World Heritage–listed Shark Bay. Spy some dolphins and dugongs at Monkey Mia, and sign up for an Indigenous cul-tural tour. Check out the stromatolites of Hamelin Pool before hitting Carnarvon. Drop into Gnaraloo for world-class waves before arriving at tiny Coral Bay and Exmouth, where whale sharks, humpback whales, manta rays and turtles inhabit the exquisite Ningaloo Marine Park. Fly out of Exmouth, drive back to Perth, or push on to the gorgeous gorges of Karijini.

2 WEEKS

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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27 727 7

WRITER THANKSCharles Rawlings-WayBoundless thanks to Tasmin for the gig, to Fleur for the inside running on Perth culture, and to all the helpful souls I met on the road in and around Perth who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increasingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione, Remy, Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, washed, schooled, tucked in and read to.

Fleur BaingerThrilled and grateful to be on board, I’m eager to thank both Tasmin and Charles for their endless patience with helping me learn the guidebook-writing ropes. Western Australia’s epic scenery, passionate characters and inspiring produce also deserve gratitude; they constantly inspire me to share the word on this stunning, still relatively untouched part of the world.

Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Tasmin for entrusting me with a chunk of Western Australia, to fellow scribes Charles, Steve, Carolyn and Brett for the advice, and to every-one who’s helped me along the way. In particular: John and Debbie in Geraldton; Barbara in Esperance; Anna in Meekatharra; my adoptive Wongutha family (Linden, Trevor and Marcia), plus Monica, Billy and Becky in Kalgoorlie; ‘Capes’ in Denham; Amy in Port

Hedland; Maria, Kate and Michael in Denmark; Lyn in Norseman; and all the helpful visitor-centre staff and Aboriginal artists who’ve shared their work with me.

Tasmin WabyThanks to Jennifer Carey and the rest of the Australia writer crew for the encouragement to hit the road. Love to my beautiful daughters and their father for letting me take off in the middle of the British winter. Big clap to the excellent editors who knocked this sometimes scrappy work into shape. And Sir Ix, aka Nicholas Reed, for being there, as always.

Steve WatersBig thanks to John and Jan for fireside hospitality; Lauren, James, Jane, Trish, Anika and the rest of MC for (more) gorge love; Marie for vino frenzies; Leonie and Mera for tea and bikkies; Ted for unruliness; Kaz for listening; Roz and Megan for caretaking; Vicky and Pippa for letting me trash their car; and Jennifer from the RACV for getting me out of Marla on Grand Final Day.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Cape Leveque (Kooljaman), Liz Barker/Getty Images ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

278

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s West Coast Australia guidebook was researched and written by Charles Rawlings-Way, Fleur Bainger, Anna Kaminski, Tasmin Waby and Steve Waters. The previ-ous two editions were written by Steve, Brett Atkinson, Kate Armstrong and Carolyn Bain. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Tasmin WabySenior Product Editors Kate Chapman, Sandie Kestell, Anne MasonRegional Senior Cartographer Julie SheridanProduct Editor Kate MathewsBook Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Kellie Langdon, Lou McGregor, Anne

Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr, Fionnuala TwomeyAssisting Cartographer Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Brendan Dempsey-SpencerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Laura Crawford, David Hodges, Dario Lepori, Virginia Moreno, Claire Naylor, Vicky Smith, Anna Tyler, Daisy van Amerom, Diana von Holdt and Branislava Vladisavljevic

279

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAboriginal Australians 246

art & culture 10, 26, 225, 258-60, 10

history 240-1, 242-3, 244-5, 258-60

languages 17mining employment 255

Abrolhos, the 174accessible travel 262accommodation 18, 22-3,

263, see also individual locations

stations 195wilderness camps 223

AC/DC 78activities 42-7, see also

individual activitiesair travel 25, 272, 273airlines 272, 273airports 272Albany 157-61, 158Alexander Morrison National

Park 123America’s Cup 247amusement parks 49animals 14, 28, 267-8 see

also individual speciesaquariums

Denham 180Ningaloo Interpretation

Centre 192Perth 61

area codes 17art galleries, see museums

& galleriesATMs 266Augusta 144-5Avon Valley 115, 110

BB&Bs 22

Badgingarra National Park 123

Balingup 147bargaining 19Barnett River 229Batavia Coast 171-9bathrooms 270beaches 26

Basin, the 102Bathers Beach 66Big Lagoon 182Bill’s Bay 190Blue Haven 167Cable Beach 212, 216, 13Cape Leveque

(Kooljaman) 222Cattle Well 182City Beach 61Cottesloe Beach 61,

81, 8-9Floreat Beach 62Fourth Beach 167Gnaraloo Bay 185Granny’s Beach 171Hearson’s Cove 203James Price Point 222Le Grand Beach 166Leighton Beach 66Lucky Bay 166, 5Manari Road 220Mandalay Beach 153Mettams Pool 61Northshore Beach 171Ocean Beach 154Point Quobba 185Red Bluff Beach 175Reddell Beach 213Salmon Beach 167Samson Beach 201Scarborough Beach 61Seaspray Beach 171Shell Beach 179South Beach 171Swanbourne Beach 62-3Trigg Beach 63Turquoise Bay 198

Twilight Beach 167West Beach 167Wittecarra Beach 175

beer 26, 251-2, see also breweries

Bell Gorge 228, 12Bibbulmun Track 153,

159, 47bicycle travel see cycling,

mountain bikingbirdwatching

books 254Broome 213, 217Derby 224Parry Lagoons Nature

Reserve 238Penguin Island 106red-tailed tropicbirds 136

Blues at Bridgetown Festival 31

boat travel 273boat trips

Augusta 145Esperance 167Geikie Gorge 227Houtman Abrolhos

Islands 174Kununurra 234Lake Argyle 235Mandurah Cruises 107Monkey Mia 183Nornalup Inlet 153Perth 72Pemberton 149

Bond, Alan 247booking services 23books

architecture 255birdwatching 254diving 198ecology 254environmentalism 257roadmaps 266

box jellyfish 267Bradshaw paintings 240-1Bremer Bay 164-5

breweries 40-1, 251-2, see also beer, brewery tours

Beer Farm 143Bootleg Brewery 143Boston Brewery 156Brewhouse 140Caves Road Collective 143Cheeky Monkey 143Colonial Brewing Co 140Eagle Bay Brewing Co 134Feral Brewing Company

114Froth Craft Brewery 194Homestead Brewery 114Little Creatures 92Lucky Bay Brewery 168Margaret River 143Matso’s Broome Brewery

220Northbridge Brewing

Company 91Three Rivers Brewing

Company 108Whalebone Brewing

Company 194-5Wilson Brewing Company

160brewery tours 139Bridgetown 146-7Broome 12, 52, 212-21, 214,

216, 13accommodation 209,

218-19activities 215climate 209drinking 220entertainment 220-1events 217-18festivals 217-18food 209, 219-20for children 50highlights 210-11information 221nightlife 220shopping 221sights 212-15tours 215-17

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

280

IND

EX B- E

Broome continuedtravel seasons 209travel to/from 221travel within 221

budget 17Bunbury 127-9, 128Bunbury Geographe 127-31Bungle Bungle Range

236-8, 45bus travel 25, 272-3, 274bushfires 268bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 17, 266Busselton 130-1BYO 249

CCable Beach 212, 216, 13Cambridge Gulf 238camel tours

Broome 217Perth 73

camping 22, 223canoeing, see also

kayakingKalbarri 176Kununurra 234Pemberton 149

canyoning 176, see also gorges

Cape Arid National Park 166

Cape Le Grand National Park 166

Cape Leveque (Kooljaman) 222

Cape Naturaliste 134-5Cape Peron 182Cape Range National Park

199-200car rental 274-5car travel 24-5, 268, 273,

274-6, see also driving routes

caravan parks 22Carnarvon 183-5Cathedral Gorge 237caves 41

Crystal Cave 120Giants Cave 142Jewel Cave 145Jingemia Cave 119Lake Cave 141, 41Mammoth Cave 142Mimbi Caves 230

Mulka’s Cave 112Ngilgi Cave 134-5Stockyard Gully

Caves 124Caves Road 141-4cell phones 16, 269cemeteries

Broome 213Fremantle Cemetery 78Wadjemup Aboriginal

Burial Ground 102Cervantes 122-3Charles Knife Canyon 199Chichester Range 208children, travel with 48-50

accommodation 22-3cideries

Cheeky Monkey 143Core Cider 110Tangletoe Cidery 149Wine Tree Cidery 108-9

cinemasBroome 212, 221Perth 93Wyndham 238

climate 16, 29-31, see also individual regions

climbing 66clothing 18consulates 262-3cooking classes

Cape Lodge 142Gumbanan 223Wildwood Valley Cooking

School 135-6coral 198Coral Bay 190-1Cossack 201costs 17Cottesloe Beach 61,

81, 8-9courses

Aboriginal culture 66birdwatching 213bush skills 223cooking 135-6, 142, 223diving 72, 190, 193mountain biking 111surfing 48, 72, 135,

137, 172yoga 135

Cowaramup 141credit cards 266cricket 95crocodiles 267, 14cultural centres

Bilya Koort Boodja 115Walyalup Aboriginal

Cultural Centre 66

currency 16customs regulations

234, 262cycling 25, 44, 273, see

also bicycle travel, mountain biking

Broome 217Geraldton 172Kalbarri 175Perth 66

DDales Gorge 205Dampier 203Dampier Archipelago 203Dampier Peninsula 222-4dangers, see safetyDarling Range 110-11, 110dengue fever 264Denham 180-2Denmark 154-7Derby 224-7Devonian Reef National

Parks 227dinosaur footprints 212-13,

256Dirk Hartog Island National

Park 181disabilities, travellers

with 262distilleries

Great Southern Distillery 157-8

Illegal Tender Rum Co 171

Margaret River Distilling Company 137

Whipper Snapper Distillery 57

diving 28, 46Albany 159books 198Broome 215courses 72, 190, 193Dunsborough 133Esperance 167Exmouth 196-7Houtman Abrolhos

Islands 174Ningaloo Marine Park 198Ningaloo Reef 190, 193Perth 72

dolphin encounters Broome 217Bunbury 127-8Mandurah 107Monkey Mia 182-3

dolphins 11Dolphin Discovery

Centre 127

Dongara 171-2dot painting 259-60Dreaming, the 258drinks, see also breweries,

cideries, distilleries, wineries

beer 26, 251-2cider 21wine 9, 26, 248-51

driving, see car traveldriving routes

Boranup Drive 142Duncan Road 232Gibb River Road 12,

228-30Great Forest Trees

Drive 148Great Northern Highway

230-3Great Ocean Drive 167Karri Forest Explorer 150Knoll Drive 153Lesueur Scenic Drive 123Manari Road 220Mt Augustus National

Park 185Mt Shadforth Road 154Scotsdale Road 154Shark Bay Road World

Heritage Drive 179-80Shothole Canyon Road

200Valley of the Giants

Rd 153Warlu Way 200-1

Dryandra Woodland 113Drysdale River 229Duncan Road 232Dunsborough 131-4Durack River 230Dwellingup 108-9

EEchidna Chasm 237economy 255El Questro Gorge 230electricity 262Ellen Peak 163embassies 262-3emergencies 17Emmanuel Range 230environmental issues

253-7Esperance 166-8etiquette 19events 29-31exchange rates 17Exmouth 191-5, 192Exmouth region 195-7, 196

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

281IN

DEX F- L

Ffestivals 29-31FIFO 254films 130, 245fishing 46, 167Fitzgerald River National

Park 165-6, 47Fitzroy Crossing 231-2, 2flowers 118, 123, 176fly-in, fly-out 254food 19, 27-8, 49, 248, 263,

see also individual locations

festivals 139vegetarian 249

Forrest, Andrew ‘Twiggy’ 255

Francois Peron National Park 182, 19

Fremantle Doctor 77Fremantle Festival 30Frenchman Peak 166fuel 274

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGalvans Gorge 229Gascoyne Coast 183-6gay travellers 86, 265-6Geikie Gorge 227Geraldton 172-5, 173Gibb River Road 12, 228-30gorges

Amelia Gorge 230Bell Gorge 228, 12Cathedral Gorge 237Charles Knife Canyon

199Dales Gorge 205Deep Gorge 203Echidna Chasm 237El Questro Gorge 230Galvans Gorge 229Geikie Gorge 227Hamersley Gorge 206Hancock Gorge 205, 14Joffre Gorge 206Kalamina Gorge 207Knox Gorge 207Lennard River Gorge 228Mandu Mandu Gorge 199Piccaninny Gorge 237Sawpit Gorge 232Weano Gorge 206Windjana Gorge 227, 14Yardie Creek Gorge 199

Great Northern Highway 230-3

Great Southern Rail 273Great Southern wine region

249, 251Green Head 124Greenbushes 147Guilderton 120-1Guildford 112-13Gwion Gwion art 259

HHalls Creek 232-3Hamelin Pool 179Hamersley Gorge 206Hancock Gorge 205, 14health 263-5heat exhaustion 264heatstroke 264Hellfire Bay 166, 27hiking 13, 27, 13

Bibbulmun Track 153, 159, 47

Broome 215Cape Range National

Park 199Cape to Cape Track

139, 142Chichester Range 208Fremantle Trails 71Hopetoun 166Kalbarri National Park

178-9, 42Le Grand Coastal Trail

166Lurujarri Dreaming

Trail 215Melaleuca Cycle-Walk

Trail 175Millstream 208Mokare Heritage Trail

154Mt Augustus National

Park 185Munda Biddi Trail 108Nornalup Trail 154Piccaninny Gorge 237Porongurup National

Park 162, 162Punurrunha 207Stirling Range National

Park 163, 164-5Wilson Inlet Trail 154Yaburara Heritage

Trail 201history 240-7

Aboriginal Australians 240-1, 242-3, 244-5

convicts 243environmentalism 253European explorers

241-2

European settlement 242-3

exploration 243gold 243-4Great Depression, the

245modern WA 246-7public works 244stolen generations

244-5WWI 245WWII 245-6

hitching 273holidays 266Hopetoun 166horizontal waterfalls 226horse riding 234hostels 22hotels 22Houtman Abrolhos Islands

174Hyden 111-12hypothermia 264, 268-9

IIndigenous art 10, 26, 225,

258-60, 10Indigenous culture 26insects 267insurance 265

car 275health 263

internet access 265internet resources 17

accommodation 23car sharing 273children, travel with 50health 264travel advisories 269work 271

itineraries 32-7

JJarrahdale 109Joffre Gorge 206Johns, Joseph Bolitho 117Jurien Bay 123-4

KKalamina Gorge 207Kalbarri 175-8, 177Kalbarri National Park

178-9, 42Kalumburu 231Karijini National Park 14,

205-8, 206, 14Karratha 200-3

mining industry 254

kayaking, see also canoeing

Broome 216Denmark 154Dwellingup 109Exmouth 192-3Lake Argyle 235Ningaloo Reef 190, 198Perth 71Rottnest Island 103Shoalwater Islands

Marine Park 106Kimberley, the 52, 209-38,

210-11accommodation 209climate 209food 209for children 50highlights 210-11travel seasons 209

King Edward River 229King Leopold Ranges 228King Sound 224Kings Park Festival 31kitesurfing 45, see also

windsurfingExmouth 197Geraldton 172Margaret River 138

Knox Gorge 207Kununurra 233-6Kwongan heathlands 123

LLake Argyle 235lakes

Lake Argyle 235Lake Kununurra 234Lake Monger 60Miaree Pool 200Pink Lake 178

Lancelin 121languages 16, 17Leeman 124legal matters 265Lennard River 228Lennard River Gorge 228Lesueur National Park 123LGBT+ travellers 86, 265-6lighthouses

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse 145

Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse 135

Vlamingh Head Lighthouse 196

Wadjemup Lighthouse 102

Lucky Bay 166, 5

282

IND

EX M- N

MManari Road 220Mandalay Beach 153Mandu Mandu Gorge 199Mandurah 107-8mangos 218Manjimup 147-8maps 266Marble Bar 202Margaret River 137-41,

138, 15Margaret River Gourmet

Escape 31Margaret River Pro 139Margaret River region 38-

41, 51, 125-50, 126, 38accommodation 125climate 125food 125, 249for children 49highlights 126travel seasons 125

Margaret River wine region 9, 39, 131-45, 249, 132, 40

marine reserves, see also national parks, nature reserves

Hamelin Pool 179Monkey Mia Marine

Reserve 10, 182-3, 11Ningaloo Marine Park 11,

197-9, 11Rowley Shoals Marine

Park 218Shoalwater Islands

Marine Park 106markets

Bunbury Farmers Market 129

Fremantle 65Margaret River Farmers

Market 140Perth 86

measures 267medical services 264Miaree Pool 200Millstream Chichester

National Park 208Mimbi Caves 230mining industry 253-7Minyirr Park 212Mirima National Park 233Mitchell Falls 229Mitchell Plateau 229mobile phones 16, 269

money 16, 17, 266Monkey Mia Marine

Reserve 10, 182-3, 11for children 50

Moondyne Joe 117Moora 119motels 22motorcycle travel 273,

274-6mountain biking 44

Dwellingup 109Margaret River 137, 138Pemberton 148Perth Hills 111

Mt Augustus 185Mt Augustus National

Park 185Mt Barker 161-2Mt Lesueur 123Mt Welcome 201Murujuga National Park

203museums & galleries

225, 260Army Museum of WA 66Art Gallery of Western

Australia 60ArtGeo Cultural Complex

130Augusta Historical

Museum 145Bidyadanga Community

Art Centre 225Broome Museum 213Bunbury Museum &

Heritage Centre 127Bunbury Regional Art

Gallery 127Bungalow 213Carnarvon Space & Tech-

nology Museum 184Comet Gold Mine

Museum 202Courthouse Gallery

203-4East Pilbara Arts Centre

205Esperance Museum 167Fremantle Arts Centre 65Geraldton Regional Art

Gallery (GRAG) 172Kununurra Historical

Society Museum 234Laarri Gallery 225Mandurah Museum 107Mangkaja Arts 225, 232Marnin Studio 225Motor Museum of

Western Australia 114Mowanjum Art & Culture

Centre 225

Museum of the Great Southern 157

Nagula Jarndu Women’s Resource Centre 213, 225

National Anzac Centre 157

New Museum for Western Australia 20

New Norcia Museum & Art Gallery 118

Newcastle Gaol Museum 117

Ningaloo Interpretation Centre 192

Norval Gallery 224Nostalgia Box 60Old Convent Heritage

Centre 213Pearl Luggers 215Pemberton Fine

Woodcraft Gallery 148Perth Institute of

Contemporary Arts 60Petrichor Gallery 153Revolutions Transport

Museum 113-14Rottnest Museum 102Scitech 61Shark Bay World

Heritage Discovery Centre 180

Short Street Gallery 213Tractor Museum 114WA Shipwrecks

Museum 65Waringarri Aboriginal

Arts Centre 225, 233Warlayirti Artists

Centre 225Warmun Arts 225Western Australian

Museum – Geraldton 172

Western Australian Museum – Maritime 65

Western Australian Museum – Perth 60

Wharefinger Museum 224

Yarliyil Gallery 225Yinjaa-Barndi Gallery

201York Motor Museum

116

NNambung National Park

122Nannup 146National Anzac Centre 157

national parks 45, see also marine reserves, nature reserves

Alexander Morrison National Park 123

Badgingarra National Park 123

Beedelup National Park 150

Cape Arid National Park 166

Cape Le Grand National Park 166

Cape Range National Park 199-200

Devonian Reef National Parks 227

Dirk Hartog Island National Park 181

Esperance region 166Francois Peron National

Park 182, 19Geikie Gorge 227Kalbarri National Park

178-9, 42Karijini National Park 14,

205-8, 206, 14Leeuwin-Naturaliste

National Park 141Lesueur National Park

123Millstream Chichester

National Park 208Mirima National Park

233Mitchell River National

Park 229Mt Augustus National

Park 185Murujuga National Park

203Nambung National

Park 122Penguin Island 106Porongurup National

Park 162-3, 162Purnululu National Park

236-8, 237, 45Serpentine National

Park 109Shoalwater Islands

Marine Park 106Stirling Range National

Park 163-4, 164-5Stokes National Park

166Tathra National Park 123Torndirrup National

Park 159Tuart Forest National

Park 130Tunnel Creek 227

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

283IN

DEX N

- SWalpole-Nornalup

National Park 153Watheroo National

Park 119Waychinicup National

Park 159West Cape Howe

National Park 154William Bay National

Park 154Windjana Gorge 227, 14Yalgorup National Park

108Yanchep National Park

120nature reserves, see

also marine reserves, national parks

Broome Bird Observatory 213

Dampier Archipelago 203Forest Discovery Centre

109Lane Pool Reserve 109Ngamoowalem

Conservation Reserve 233-4

Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve 238

Valley of the Giants 153, 13

New Norcia 118newspapers 267Ningaloo coast 52, 190-

200, 188-9accommodation 187climate 187food 187for children 50highlights 188-9travel seasons 187

Ningaloo Marine Park 11, 197-9, 11

No 1 rabbit-proof fence 166No 2 rabbit-proof fence 165Nornalup 153-4North West Cape 195-7,

196Northam 115-16

Oobservatories 110opening hours 17, 266Optus Stadium 20, 95Ord River 230outback travel 269

Pparks & gardens

Hyde Park 60

Kings Park & Botanic Garden 60-1

Whiteman Park 113-14pearl farms 220Peel Region 107-9pelicans 176Pemberton 148-50Pender Bay 222penguins 106Pentecost Ranges 230Perth 9, 51, 54-99, 55,

58-9, 62-3, 67, 68-9, 70

accommodation 54, 75-80

activities 66-72climate 54drinking 89-93entertainment 93-5events 73-5festivals 73-5food 54, 80-9for children 49, 61highlights 55history 56information 96-7itineraries 57LGBT+ travellers 86nightlife 89-93shopping 95-6sights 56-66, 91tours 72-3travel seasons 54travel to/from 97-8travel within 98-9walking tour 74, 74

Perth Festival 29Perth Hills 110-11, 110

wineries 251Perth region 51, 100-24, 101

accommodation 100climate 100food 100for children 49highlights 101

petrol 274Piccaninny Gorge 237Pilbara, the 52, 200-8,

188-9accommodation 187climate 187food 187for children 50highlights 188-9travel seasons 187

pine trees 81Pink Lake 178Pinnacles Desert 15,

122-3, 15

planningaccommodation 22-3budgeting 17calendar of events 29-31children, travel with 48-50internet resources 17itineraries 32-7repeat visitors 20-1travel seasons 16West Coast Australia

basics 16-17West Coast Australia’s

regions 51-2Point Samson 201population 21Porongurup National Park

162-3, 162Port Denison 171-2Port Hedland 203-5post 266produce 248-52public holidays 266public transport 25, 276pubs 22Punurrunha 207Purnululu National Park

236-8, 237, 45

QQuobba Coast 185-6quokkas 103, 12

Rrabbit-proof fence 165, 166radio 267red-tailed tropicbirds 136road conditions 275-6road rules 276rock art 258-9, 10

Mitchell River National Park 229

Mt Augustus National Park 185

Mulka’s Cave 112Murujuga National Park

203Yaburara Heritage

Trail 201Rockingham 106-7Roebourne 201Rottnest Island 12, 102-6,

104, 44Rowley Shoals Marine

Park 218

Ssafety 267-9

driving 275-6hitching 273

swimming 269women travellers 271

sandalwood 161Sawpit Gorge 232scenic drives, see driving

routesScott, Ronald Belford

(Bon) 78seasonal work 271Serpentine National Park

109Shark Bay 10, 179-83Shark Bay Road 179-80sharks 267-8shipwrecks 46, 65

Batavia 65, 172, 241HMAS Perth 159Mandalay 153

Shoalwater Islands Marine Park 106

shopping 260, see also markets

silo art 115skating 69, 71skydiving

Perth 71Rottnest Island 103York 116

smoking 267snakes 268snorkelling 28, 46, see also

divingCoral Bay 190Exmouth 193Jurien Bay 123Kalbarri 175Ningaloo Marine Park

198Ningaloo Reef 190Purdy Point 190Rottnest Island 102

south coast Western Australia 52, 151-68, 152

accommodation 151climate 151food 151highlights 152travel seasons 151

Southern Forests 146-50southwest Western

Australia 38-41, 51, 125-50, 126

accommodation 125climate 125food 125for children 49highlights 126travel seasons 125

spiders 268

284

IND

EX S- Z

Staircase to the MoonBroome 219Port Hedland 203

stand-up paddleboardingAlbany 159Margaret River 137

Stirling Range National Park 163-4, 164-5

Stokes National Park 166stolen generations 244-5street art 91Sunset Coast 120-1surfing 15, 28, 39-40, 44-5,

48, 15classes 48, 72, 135,

137, 172competitions 139Denmark 154Geraldton 172Jakes Bay 175Margaret River 137Perth 72Quobba Coast 185-6Tombstones 186Yallingup 135

Swan River 56Swan Valley 112-15, 110Swan Valley wine region

113-15, 251swimming 48, see also

beachesPemberton 148, 149Perth 68-9Port Hedland 204safety 269Yallingup 135

TTathra National Park 123telephone services 16, 269television 267time zones 16, 269tipping 19, 266toilets 270Toodyay 117Torndirrup National Park

159tourist information 270train rides 103, 114, 130train travel 25, 273, 276tram rides 114, 149transport 24-5, 276

travel to/from West Coast Australia 272-3

travel within West Coast Australia 24-5, 273-6

trekking, see hikingtruffles 147Tuart Forest National

Park 130Tunnel Creek 227Turquoise Coast 121-4turtles 196, 215Two Peoples Bay 159

Vvacations 266Valley of the Giants 153, 13vegetarian travellers 249visas 16, 270volunteering 182-3, 215,

270-1

WWACA 95walking, see hikingWalpole 153-4Walpole-Nornalup National

Park 153Wandjina 259water parks 49Wave Rock 111-12, 2Waychinicup National

Park 159Weano Gorge 206weather 16, 29-31websites, see internet

resourcesweights 267West Cape Howe National

Park 154West Coast Australia basics

16-17Western Desert Mob 260Western Desert painting

259-60whale sharks 198whale watching 46, 49

Albany 158-9Augusta 145Bremer Bay 164Conspicuous Cliffs 153Dunsborough 133Fitzgerald River National

Park 165

wi-fi 265Wildflower Way 118-20wildflowers 118, 123, 176wildlife 14, 28wildlife reserves &

sanctuaries 48, see also zoos

Barna Mia Nocturnal Animal Sanctuary 113

Broome Bird Observatory 213

Eagles Heritage 142Malcolm Douglas

Wilderness Park 213Rainbow Jungle 175-6

William Bay National Park 154

Willie Creek 220Windjana Gorge 227, 14windsurfing 28, 44-5

Margaret River 138wine 9, 26, 248-51, see also

wine tours, winerieswine tours 251, see also

wine, wineriesDenmark 155Margaret River 139Swan Valley 114

wineries 21, see also wine, wine tours

Albany 160Ashbrook 142Blind Corner 131, 133Brookside Vineyard 110Cape Mentelle 137Capel Vale 130Castle Rock Estate 162Core Cider 110Cullen Wines 144, 9Denmark 156Duke’s Vineyard 162Geographe Bay 127Great Southern wine

region 249, 251Harewood Estate 156Houghton 113Ironwood Estate Wines

162-3Leeuwin Estate 144Margaret River Regional

Wine Centre 141Margaret River wine

region 9, 39, 131-45, 249, 132, 40

Montgomery’s Hill 160Moombaki Wines 156Mountford Wines 149Oranje Tractor 160Perth Hills 251Plantagenet Wines 161Plume Estate 251Poacher’s Ridge 161Rising Star 156Rockcliffe Winery 156Sandalford Wines 113Singlefile Wines 156Stella Bella 137Stormflower Vineyard

141Swan Valley wine region

113-15, 251Thompson Estate 142Vasse Felix 144Voyager Estate 141Watershed Premium

Wines 144West Cape Howe Wines

161Wignalls Wines 160Wine Tree Cidery 108-9Zarephath Wines 162

women travellers 271Wongalala Falls 231Wongan Hills 119-20work 271WWOOFing 271Wyndham 238

YYalgorup National Park 108Yallingup 135-7Yanchep National Park 120Yardie Creek Gorge 199yoga 135York 116

Zzoos 48, see also wildlife

reserves & sanctuariesBunbury Wildlife Park

127Caversham Wildlife

Park 113Perth 57

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

285N

OTES

286

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Tasmin WabyMargaret River & the Southwest A London-born writer with Kiwi whānau who grew up in Australia, Tasmin loves cartography, starry night skies, and getting off the beaten track. When not on the road for Lonely Planet she lives in a narrow-boat and is planning her next adventure with her two school-aged kids. Her love affair with Western Australia is off the charts.

Steve WatersBroome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life; he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide-books for over 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kamchatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, Northeast Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! Steve has contributed to Iran, Indonesia and the

past five editions of West Coast Australia, and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley.

Contributing WriterMichael Cathcart is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio National and has presented history programs on ABC TV. He has also taught Australian history and culture at Deakin University and the University of Melbourne. Michael wrote the History chapter.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – November 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 389 6© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in MalaysiaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSCharles Rawlings-WayPerth, Perth Region Charles is a veteran travel, food and music writer who has penned 40-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tonga, New Zealand, the South Pacific and every state in Aus-tralia, including his native terrain of Tasmania and current homeland of South Australia – plus too many articles to recall. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project management and busking for some years,

Charles hit the road for Lonely Planet in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. He’s also the author of a bestselling rock biography on Glasgow band Del Amitri, These Are Such Perfect Days. Follow Charles on the socials @crawlingsway and www.facebook.com/chasrwmusic. Charles also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Fleur BaingerPerth Having worn her first backpack to Europe when she was just 10 years old, Perth-based journalist Fleur Bainger gets a heck of a buzz from being a freelance travel and food writer. As Western Australia’s weekly food reviewer for the Sun-day Times Magazine, she’s constantly on the hunt for Perth’s best new eateries, while her weekly ‘what’s on’ slot on 6PR talkback radio means she’s always got

the lowdown on events and openings around town. She’s a Lonely Planet Local, a destination ex-pert for the Telegraph (UK) and a regular contributor to Australian Traveller, Escape, ABC radio and more.

Anna KaminskiSouth Coast WA, Monkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and literature of the Americas and the Carib-bean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to

settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.

OVERPAGE

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