WelcometoCleveland:MuseumsandSightsWorthSeeing

ByMollyW.BergerandVirginiaP.Dawson

InearlyNovember2011,theSocietyfortheHistoryofTechnology,theHistoryof

ScienceSociety,andtheSocietyfortheSocialStudiesofSciencewillco‐locatetheir

annualmeetingsinCleveland,Ohio.Theprogramswillofferanoverwhelming

intellectualfeast,butCleveland’smanyprominentmuseumswillprovideyet

anothersetoftemptingattractions.Themeetingswillbelocateddowntownwhere

theRockandRollHallofFameandMuseum,theGreatLakesScienceCenter,and

manyarchitecturalgemsarejustashortwalkaway.UniversityCircle,whereyour

hostinstitutionCaseWesternReserveUniversityresides,isfourmilesandabouta

twenty‐five‐minutebusridefromdowntownandisoneofthegreatest

concentrationsofculturalinstitutionsinthenation.Thereyouwillfindtheworld‐

renownedClevelandMuseumofArt,theClevelandMuseumofNaturalHistory,the

ClevelandBotanicalGarden,theWesternReserveHistoricalSociety,andtheDittrick

MedicalHistoryCenter.Wehopetheseshortdescriptionswillenticeyoutoexplore

someofCleveland’smanyculturaltreasures.

DowntownCleveland

AtourofClevelandmightstartatthebottomofE.9thStreetonthelakefront,where

the1925618‐footsteam‐poweredoreboat,theWilliamG.Mather,ismoored.Built

2

atatimewhenfourClevelandironcompanieshadGreatLakesfleets,itisamongthe

lastvestigesofanerawhenClevelandwasaprosperousironandsteeltown.The

MatherwastheflagshipfortheCleveland‐CliffsIronCompanyandwasnamedfor

itsthenpresident.TheMatherpliedtheGreatLakesuntil1980.Althoughearly

Novembermaybetoolateintheseasontobetoured,theMatherispartoftheGreat

LakesScienceCenter,alsolocatedonthelakefront.TheScienceCenterisan

interactivelearningcenterwithhundredsofhands‐onexhibits.Inaddition,the

ScienceCenterfeaturesanOmnimaxTheaterandhousestheNASA‐GlennVisitors

Centerthatfeaturesthe1973Skylab3CommandModulethatcarriedthree

astronautstotheSkylabSpaceStation.TheGreatLakesScienceCenterwillbeopen

initsentiretytoSHOTmembersattendingourjointopeningreceptionthere,

ThursdayeveningNovember3,2011.Formoreinformation,visit

www.greatscience.com.

NexttotheScienceCenteryouwillfindtheRockandRollHallofFameandMuseum,

designedbyI.M.Pei.Itisorganizedaroundartifacts,suchascostumes,cars,

guitars,andrecordlabels,ofvariousrockstarsandbands.Featuredexhibits

includeMetallica,theBeatles,ElvisPresley,RollingStones,FatsDomino,Jimi

HendrixandTheWho.Permanentexhibitstracethehistoryofrockandrolland

studythepromoters,theperformers,themusic,andthetechnology.“Listentothe

Music;TheEvolutionofAudioTechnology”examinestechnologicaldevelopments

andtheirimpactontheevolutionofrockandrollandontheexperienceoflistening

torockmusic.Thisstate‐of‐the‐artmuseumisinteractive.Visitorscanselectthe

3

songsoffavoriteartistsandlistentothemusingtheheadphonesprovided.The

museumfeaturessevenfloorsofexhibitsincludingfivetheatersforviewingfilms.

Thetourculminatesonthetopfloorswithcommemorationsoftheinducteestothe

HallofFame.TheRockHallisopeneverydayfrom10:00a.m.to5:30p.m.andon

Wednesdaysuntil9:00p.m.ThereisagiftshopwhereCDsandothermemorabilia

canbepurchased.Admissionis$22withdiscountsforseniors,children,and

Clevelandresidents.Formoreinformation,visitrockhall.com.

Cleveland’shistoryisreflectedinsomeofitsdowntownbuildings.TheSoldiersand

SailorsMonument,locatedonthesoutheastquadrantofPublicSquare,honorsthose

whoservedintheCivilWar.ItwasdesignedbyLeviT.Scofieldanddedicatedin

1894.Thebaseofthemonumenthasfourbronzesculpturesdepictingfourbattles

foughtbytheNavy,Artillery,Infantry,andCalvary.Atitscenter,a125‐footcolumn

ofQuincystoneiscappedbya15‐footGoddessofFreedomholdingaShieldof

Liberty.Thestrikinginterior“MemorialRoom”withitsstainedglasswindowsand

bronzereliefslistsresidentsofCuyahogaCountywhoservedinthirtybattlesofthe

war.IthasrecentlybeenrestoredandcanbevisitedMondaythroughSaturday

from9:00a.m.to4:00p.m.Admissionisfree.

NottobemissedistheArcade,aninternationallyrenownedstructurelocated

betweenEuclidandSuperioravenuesnearPublicSquareatEast4thStreet.Itwas

builtin1890byagroupofwealthyprivateinvestorswhoincludedCharlesBrush,

JohnD.Rockefeller,andJohnSeverance,andwasoneofthefirstindoorshopping

4

centersinthecountry.Itsgleaminginteriorhasfivelevelsofbalconiesthat

surroundalight‐filledatrium.KnownasCleveland’sCrystalPalace,in1975itwas

thefirstClevelandbuildingtobeplacedontheNationalRegisterofHistoricPlaces.

Atthetimeitwasbuilt,itsarchitecturewasconsideredextremelyinnovative.The

Arcade’sinteriorcommercialandofficespaceiscoveredbyaglassroofwithroof

trusses,hingedatthebaseandapex.Thestructureissupportedbyaskeletonof

ironcolumnsandoak,wroughtiron,andsteelbeams.TheArcadehasbeenrestored

andhousesaHyatt‐RegencyHotel,shops,andfoodcourt.TheArcade’sEuclid

AvenueentranceisacrossfromEast4thStreet,apedestrianblockthatfeatures

manypopularrestaurants.

Attheturnofthetwentiethcentury,TomJohnson,Cleveland’sprogressivemayor,

wasdeterminedtomakeClevelandanexampleoftheCityBeautifulMovement.He

establishedacommissionheadedbythewell‐knownChicagoarchitect,Daniel

Burnham.TheGroupPlanof1903featuredaseriesofmonumentalpublicbuildings

arrangedaroundamall.TheCuyahogaCountyCourthouse(1911),theCleveland

CityHall(1916),PublicAuditorium(1922),onLakesideAvenueandthemainPublic

Library(1925)onSuperiorAvenuewerebuiltaccordingtotheplan.Althoughnot

partoftheoriginalplan,FederalReserveBankofCleveland,completedin1923,is

builtinthesameBeaux‐artsclassicalstyle.Ithasanimpressiveatriumwithamural

thatshowsthemakingofopenhearthsteel.Thebankhasa“LearningCenterand

MoneyMuseum”gearedtoschoolchildren.ItisopenMondaythroughThursday,

10:00a.m.to2:00p.m.Admissionisfree.

5

Twoeccentricrealestateandrailroadpromoters,theVanSweringenbrothers,built

theTerminalComplexonPublicSquare.Thecomplex,designedbyChicago

architectsGraham,Anderson,Probst&White,anticipatedfeaturesofRockefeller

Center.The708‐foottower,completedin1927,wasthetalleststructureinthe

MidwestbeforetheSearsTowerinChicagoearnedthatdistinction.Ifyouarrive

fromtheairportviarapidtransit,youwilldisembarkatTerminalTower.Besureto

noticetheArtDecoatrium.ThedefunctClevelandUnionTerminalrailwaystation

overwhichtheofficetowersat,underwentredevelopmentinthelate1980s,and

nowhostsretailshops,aneleven‐screencinema,andfoodcourtandlinksby

walkwaytoQuickenLoansArena,homeoftheClevelandCavaliers,andProgressive

Field,theClevelandIndians’ballpark.

TheTerminalComplexhoversovertheCuyahogaRiver,orCrookedRiver,namedby

theErietribe.Beforethemid‐nineteenthcentury,thecity’swealthcamefromits

favoredpositionattheterminusoftheOhioCanal—atimewhentheflatsalongthe

riverteemedwithcommercialactivity.IfyouwalkwestalongSuperiorAvenue,you

willdescendasteephillintotheFlatswithitsextraordinaryvarietyofnineteenth‐

centurybridges.FurthereastnearthepresentProgressiveField,theHope

MemorialBridge(1932)spanstheCuyahoga.OriginallynamedtheLorain‐Carnegie

Bridge,itwasdesignedbyWilburJ.Watson&Associatesandhasfourmajorpylons

withquasi‐ArtDecocarvings,the“GuardiansofTraffic,”thatcelebratethecity’s

industrialandtransportationhistory.OntheNationalRegisterofHistoricPlaces

6

since1976,thebridgewasrenamedtohonorWilliamHenryHope,entertainerBob

Hope’sfather,astonemasonwhoworkedonthebridge’sstatues.Thebridgeleads

directlytotheWestSideMarket,apubliclyownedmarketstartedin1840.The

presentmarkethouse,designedbytheClevelandfirmofHubbellandBeneswho

alsodesignedtheClevelandMuseumofArt,wasdedicatedin1912.Theneo‐

classicalByzantinebuildingisaClevelandlandmarkwithits137‐footclocktower.

Aboutonehundredstallsintheinteriorandeighty‐fiveintheadjoiningcourtyard

featureanastoundingvarietyfoodreflectingthecity’srichethnicheritage.The

marketisopenMondayandWednesdays,from7:00a.m.to4:00p.m.andFridays

andSaturdaysfrom7:00a.m.to6:00p.m.

Finally,thePlayhouseSquaredistrict,locatedaroundEuclidAvenueandEast14th

Streetfeaturesfivetheatersandmoviehouses,allbuiltinanineteen‐monthperiod

during1921‐1922,thathavebeenrestoredtotheirformerbreathtakinggrandeur.

PlayhouseSquareistheworld’slargesttheaterrestorationprojectandthelargest

performingartscenteroutsideofNewYorkCityfeaturingnineperformingvenues.

OnNovember5,2011,PlayhouseSquarewilloffertoursofthelobbies,theatre

auditoriumsandbackstageareas.ToursdeparteveryfifteenminutesfromtheState

TheatreLobbyfrom10:00a.m.to11:30a.m.andlastapproximately1‐1/2hours

includinga12‐minutevideopresentationbeforethetour.Formoreinformation

abouteventsandtours,visitwww.playhousesquare.org.

UniversityCircle

7

YoucantaketheHealthline(seewww.rtahealthline.com)toUniversityCircle.The

HealthlineisarecentlyredesignedbusroutethatrunsdownCleveland’shistoric

EuclidAvenuefromPublicSquaretoEastClevelandandpassesthroughthe

downtown,thetheaterdistrict,commercialareas,andthevastClevelandClinicarea.

Asthebuscrosses107thStreetandenterstheCaseWesternReserveUniversity

campus,disembarkatthecornerofAdelbertRoadandEuclidAvenue.Youwillfind

yourselfdirectlyacrossthestreetfromSeveranceHall,the1931Walker&Weeks

designedhomeoftheClevelandOrchestraandinfrontoftheneo‐classicalAllen

MemorialLibrary,anotherWalker&Weeksdesign,whichhousestheDittrick

MedicalHistoryCenter.SeveranceHall,namedafteritsbenefactorJohnLong

Severance,anindustrialistwhosefatherservedastreasurerofJohnD.Rockefeller’s

StandardOilCompany,boastsoneofthenation’sgreatestArtDecointeriors.

SeveranceHallunderwentaprize‐winningtwo‐yearrestorationandexpansionand

reopenedtoanappreciativecityinJanuary2000.Whiletheconcerthallitselfis

generallyclosedduringtheday,visitorscanenterthroughthemaindoorsandtake

amomenttodrinkinthespectacularEgyptianRevivalGrandFoyer.Pre‐restoration,

SeveranceHallstoodinasthepresidentialpalaceofKazakhstanduringthetwo‐

minuteopeningsceneof1997’sAirForceOne,starringHarrisonFord.Duringthe

filming,CWRUstudentsfoundthemselveslockedinthenext‐doorlibrarywhilea

veritablewarcompletewithparatroopers,helicopters,andmachinegunsraged

overhead.

8

ThisistheheartofCleveland’sUniversityCircle,a488‐acrecomplexthatincludes

manyofCleveland'smajorcultural,educational,religious,andsocial‐service

institutionsinapark‐likesetting.Itistheonlyclusterofitskindintheworld.The

areagetsitsnamefromastreetcarstoponalinethatextendedalongEuclidAvenue

toaturnaroundat107thStreetandEuclid,knowninitiallyasDoan’sCorners,butby

theendofthenineteenthcentury,asUniversityCircle.Inthe1880s,theareabegan

toattractthecity’seducationalandculturalinstitutions.WesternReserve

UniversitymoveditscampusfromHudson,Ohio,toEuclidAvenuein1883.Case

SchoolofAppliedSciencemovedfromdowntownClevelandtoasitenextto

WesternReserveUniversityin1885.Thesetwoinstitutions–archrivalswhose

footballgamesagainsteachotherconsistentlyfilledtheformerdowntown78,189‐

seatClevelandMunicipalStadium–federatedin1967toformCaseWestern

ReserveUniversity.OtherimportanteducationalinstitutionsincludetheCleveland

InstituteofMusicandtheClevelandInstituteofArt.JepthaWade,oneofthe

foundersoftheWesternUnionTelegraphCompany,donatedoverseventy‐fiveacres

oflandfromhisestatetothecityofClevelandtoformWadePark,landthatforms

thecoreofUniversityCircle.Between1900and1918theWadefamilydeveloped

theirremaininglandintoaresidentialarea.Manyofthepeoplewhomovedtothe

areaweretrusteesofUniversityCircleinstitutionsandgenerousbenefactors.They

ledamoveeastwardbycitynotableswhohadformerlylivedinmansionsalong

EuclidAvenue,knownthenasMillionaire’sRow.Anumberofthemansionsbuiltin

theWadeallotmentstillstand,mostservingashomestoUniversityCircle

9

associationsorascampusbuildings,coffeeshops,andrestaurants.Wewillseetwo

ofthemwhenwevisittheWesternReserveHistoricalSociety.

Meanwhile,wehaveleftyoustandingatthecornerofEuclidAvenueandAdelbert

Road,soitistimetoentertheAllenMemorialLibrarybuildingtovisittheDittrick

MedicalHistoryCenterandMuseum.TheDittricktracesitsoriginsto1898,when

theClevelandMedicalLibraryAssociation(est.1894)createda“historical

committee”headedbyDr.DudleyPeterAllen,anationallyprominentsurgeon.Allen

wasmarriedtoElisabethSeveranceAllen,who,afterherhusband’suntimelydeath,

donatedfundstobuildtheAllenMemorialMedicalLibrarybuilding.Locatedonthe

thirdfloor,theDittrickmuseumfeaturesacomprehensivecollectionofdiagnostic,

therapeutic,andsurgicalinstruments,representingvirtuallyeverymedical

specialty.Forexample,themuseumhasover250microscopesrangingfromthe

1700stoa1960selectronmicroscope,andcollectionsofearlysurgicalinstruments

andendoscopes.Inaddition,themuseum’sholdingsincludeararebookcollection

withstrengthsinanatomy,scienceandtechnology,surgery,andherbals.Of

particularinterestistheDarwinianacollectionandatreasuretroveofrarescience

booksdatingtothesixteenthcenturyaswellasincunabula.Currently,theDittrick

featuresthepermanentexhibit,“Virtue,Vice,andContraband,AHistoryOf

ContraceptioninAmerica,”thatexplorestheages‐oldhistoryofcontraceptionand

thecontroversiesthatshapeit.Theexhibitincludesastaggeringdisplayofartifacts

suchascervicalcaps,pessaries,condomsofvaryingmaterials,sponges,diaphragms,

IUDs,douches,spermicides,powders,jellies,fittingimplements,aswellas

10

sterilizationdevices.Historiansoftechnologywillbeinterestedaswelltosee

artifactsthathighlighttheengineering,manufacturing,materials,packaging,and

patentsforcontraceptivedevices.Themuseumisfreeandopentothepublic

MondaythroughFridayfrom9:00a.m.to4:30p.m.ItisclosedSaturdayandSunday.

MoreinformationabouttheDittrickMedicalHistoryCentercanbefoundat

www.cwru.edu/artsci/dittrick/museum.

TheotherUniversityCirclemuseumsarearrangedaroundWadeOval,alargegrassy

tractinthecenterofthemuseumdistrict.FromSeveranceHall,crossEast

Boulevard,whereyoucandescendintothebeautifulFineArtsGarden,designedby

FrederickLawOlmstead,thatisthesumptuouslylandscaped“frontyard”ofthe

ClevelandMuseumofArt.IfaNovemberchillcausesyoutoquickenyourpace,walk

insteadnorthonEastBoulevardtothecornerofWadeOvalandEastBoulevard.You

willseethedramaticglasshousesoftheBotanicalGardendirectlyinfrontofyou.

TheClevelandBotanicalGarden’scurrentbuildingopenedinJuly2003andfeatures

twomagnificentglasshousesthatreplicatetheenvironmentalconditionsofthehot

anddryspinydesertofMadagascarandthecoolandwetcloudforestofCostaRica.

Cleveland’sBotanicalGardenisthenation’soldesturbanbotanicalgardenandsits

onaten‐acretractinWadeOvalthatincludesnearlyeightacresofoutdoorgardens,

whichinearlyNovembershouldstillshowcasethecolorsofCleveland’sspectacular

Fallfoliage.Foundedin1930astheGardenCenterofGreaterCleveland,the

garden’scurrentlocationisthatofthefirstClevelandZooandremnantsofthebear

11

pitremainintheWoodlandGarden,oneofthirteencollectiongardensthatinclude

herbs,topiaries,lilyponds,roses,waterfalls,andmultisensoryspacesthatrestore

thespiritandofferplacesforcontemplativeretreat.Thesoaringglasshouseswere

builtwith738,123poundsofstructuralsteelthatframe4,300piecesofglassand

comprisetheonlycrystallineconservatoryofitskind.TheMadagascarbiome

housesoveronehundredspeciesofplants,whiletheCostaRicanbiomehasover

threehundredspecies,including20speciesofbutterflies.

Mostoftheplantsforboththeglasshouseswereshippedcompletelyfreeofsoiland

insectsandremainedinquarantinefortwoyears,duringwhichtimetheygrew

exponentially.Otherplantswererescuedfromsitesthatwerescheduledfor

destruction.Inadditiontotheplants,bothglasshousesarehomestoanimalsand

insects,includinglizardsandfrogsthatconsumeoverthreehundredcricketsper

week.Nativebirdsabound.Theworld’slargestchameleon,nearlythreefeetlong

fromthetipofitstailtothetipofitsnose,livesintheMadagascarbiome,butjust

tryfindingit.Leaf‐cutterantsarethestarsoftheCostaRicanbiomeastheymarch

acrossavinetoanislandwheretheirdinnerwaits.Thesefussyoneswillnoteatthe

sameleavestwodaysinarow.Visitorscanwatchthemtraversetheircontrolled

passageastheycarrytheirdinnertothelogtheycallhome.Visitorswillfindmany

treasuresinthegardens,includingmanyvarietiesoforchids,oneofwhichreally

doessmelllikechocolate,andthebeautifulandbountifulbutterflieswillcertainlybe

onethemostrewardingsights,especiallyinNovember.

12

TheGarden’sEleanorSquireLibraryisoneofthelargestlendinghorticultural

librarieswithover18,000volumesandisopentothepublic.Specialarrangements

canbemadetovisittheRareBookRoomwithmaterialsdatingto1491.The

BotanicalGardenalsomaintainssixoff‐sitesummerfoodgardensthatareworked

byasmanyasninetystudentinterns.Thesestudentsreceivetraininginplant

science,horticulture,andentrepreneurshipandselltheirverytastysalsaatthelocal

farmer’smarkets.Formoreinformation,visitwww.cbgarden.org.TheCleveland

BotanicalGardenisopenTuesdaythroughSaturday,10:00a.m.to5:00p.m.,Sunday

12:00‐5:00p.m.Admissionis$8.50foradults,$3forchildrenages3‐12.

ThenextstopistheClevelandMuseumofArt,whosemainentranceonWadeOvalis

acrossthestreetandafewstepsfromtheBotanicalGarden.TheClevelandMuseum

ofArtisoneoftheworld’smostdistinguishedcomprehensiveartmuseumsandone

ofnortheasternOhio’sprincipalcivicandculturalinstitutions.Theoriginal1916

neoclassicalbuildingofwhiteGeorgianmarblewasdesignedbytheCleveland

architecturalfirmHubbell&Benes.Reopenedin2008afterbeingclosedforthree

yearsforthefirstphaseofthemuseum’scurrentrenovationandexpansion,the

1916buildingremainsthecenterpieceofarchitectRafaelViñoly’smasterplanthat

includesthedemolitionoftwointermediateadditions,renovationoftheBrutalist

MarcelBreuer’s1971addition,andtheadditionofflankingeastandwestwings.

Theneweastwing’sopeninginJune2010markedthehalf‐waypointthroughthe

eight‐year,$350millionprojectthatisexpectedtobefinishedin2013.One

highlightoftheeastwing’sarchitectureincludesajewel‐box‐likeglassAuguste

13

Rodincornergallerythataffordsviewsofthesurroundingcampusandthefull

rangeoftwentieth‐centuryarchitecturefromthe1916façadetothemodernist

ClevelandInstituteofArttoFrankGehry’sWeatherheadSchoolofManagement

building.Anotherhighlightisthelongnorth‐southaxisthatallowsavisitortothe

modernartcollectiontostandnearaRodinsculptureandgazethroughbothtime

andspacetowardsthesplashofLeeKrasner’s1960“Celebration”atthefarend,

hundredsoffeetaway.Asoaringatrium,duetobecompletedin2012,willtiethe

buildingstogetherandcreateagrandnineteenth‐centuryarcade‐likesocialspace.

Visitorscanstudyascalemodelofthebuildingprojectonthelowerlevel.

Inadditiontoenjoyingtherenownedcollectionmoregenerally,anumberof

artifactsandpaintingswillbeofspecialinteresttohistoriansoftechnology.The

ArmsandArmorCourt,offthecentralrotundaofthe1916building,hasalways

beenafavoritedestinationforCleveland’sschoolchildrenandcontinuesto

fascinatevisitors.DuringCleveland’sheydayasanindustrialmanufacturingcenter

forautomobilesandairplanes,JohnL.SeveranceandFredericAllenWhiting,the

museum’sfirstdirector,assembledacollectionofmedievalarmsandarmorto

inspirethecity’ssteelandautomobileworkerswithbeautifullycraftedsuitsofmail

andweaponry.Forexample,thec.1553‐1572CranequinwithArmsofElector

AugustusIofSaxonyisanelaboratelyetchedandgildedcrossbowwithawinder

(cranequin)whosecrankinghandleisalsominutelydecorated.Muchoftheoriginal

armorcollectionwaslaterculledbecausepieceswerefoundtobereproductions,

buttheartifactsondisplayareextraordinaryexamplesofmedievaldecorativeart

14

andmetalcrafting.Amorecontemporaryexampleofmetalworkingisthe

extraordinarywroughtiron,brass,silver,andgoldArtDecofirescreen,“Musewith

Violin,”producedbyCleveland’sRoseIronWorks(Gallery227).Foundedin1904by

HungarianémigréMartinRose,theRoseIronWorkscontinuestobeoneofthe

nation’sleadingdesignersandcreatorsofornamentalandfunctionalworksin

metalsandglass.

Severalpaintingsexhibitthemesexploredbyhistoriansoftechnology.The

museum’sconsiderabledepthinHudsonRiverSchoolpaintings(Gallery206)

includesSanfordR.Gifford’s1866painting,“AHomeintheWilderness.”Namesake

toGiffordPinchot,GifforddepictsalogcabinamidarecentlyclearedpatchofNew

Hampshirewildernessstilldottedwithtreestumps.Figuresinthecabin’sdoorway

greetamanwhohasarrivedwithacanoeofsupplies.HenriMatisse’s1917“The

Windshield,OntheRoadtoVillacoubly”(Gallery223),paintedfrominsidethecar

whilehissonchauffeuredhimontheoutskirtsofParis,createsamodernviewoflife

intheautomobileage.CharlesSheeler’s1930painting,“ChurchStreetEl”(Gallery

227),providesabird’seyeviewofManhattan’sBroadwayandWallstreets,based

onanimagefromthe1920avant‐gardefilm,Manhatta,whichSheelerproduced

withphotographerPaulStrand.The“El”isbarelydiscernableamidstthestrong

linearrepresentationsoftheNewYorkbuildings.AnselmKiefer’sarresting1989

“Lot’sWife”(Gallery225d)contemplateshumantragedythroughhisdepictionofan

abandonedindustriallandscapebasedonKiefer’sphotosoftraintracksinFrancein

theaftermathofWorldWarII.Throughhisuseofmaterials,includingsaltappliedto

15

thetophalfofthewall‐sizedpainting,KieferconnectstheHolocausttothebiblical

narrativeofLot’sescapefromSodomandGomorrah.

Theseare,ofcourse,onlyaveryfewhighlightsfromthemuseum’sbroadcollection

ofmasterpieces.InNovember2011,themuseumwillbefeaturingaspecialexhibit,

“TheArtofDailyLife:PortableObjectsfromSoutheastAfrica,”intheEastWing

DesignGallery,aselectionofaboutseventy‐fivepersonalandhouseholdobjects

fromSoutheastAfrica.TheArtofDailyLifeisthefirstloanexhibitiondedicatedto

theartofSoutheastAfricatobepresentedatamajorartmuseumintheUnited

States.Inconcertwithitsfoundingmission,admissiontotheClevelandMuseumof

Artisalwaysfree,althoughmajorspecialexhibitsmostusuallycommandan

entrancefee.ThemuseumisopenTuesdaythroughSundayfrom10:00a.m.to5:00

p.m.,withextendedhoursto9:00p.m.onWednesdayevenings.TheIngallsLibrary

oftheClevelandMuseumofArtisopentoresearchersduringmuseumhours.More

informationcanbefoundatwww.clevelandart.org.

FromtheentranceoftheClevelandMuseumofArt,visitorscanfindtheirwaytothe

ClevelandMuseumofNaturalHistorybylookingacrosstheovaltolocate"Steggie,"

thelife‐sizesculptureofaStegosaurusthatsitsoutsidethemuseum’smainentrance.

Steggiewelcomesvisitorstothemuseum,whichisoneofthefinestnaturalhistory

museumsinNorthAmericawithanemphasisonscientificresearch,conservation

andeducation.ThemuseumisalsohometotheNathanandFannyeShafran

PlanetariumwhosechamferedroofcanbeusedtolocatePolaris,theNorthStar,as

16

itstitanium‐coatedoutershellsparklesinthenightskyfromembeddedfiberoptic

lighting.Visitorsofallageswillfindplentyofinterestinthepermanentexhibitsthat

explorethenaturalworldfromthebeginningoftimetothepresent.Theseinclude

theearthandplanetarysciences,thegemandmineralcollection,thefull

evolutionarysequencestartingfromthePaleozoicera,humanevolution,Ohio’spre‐

history,andtheoutdoorwildlifecenterandgarden.

NovisittotheMuseumofNaturalHistoryiscompletewithoutavisittothedinosaur

hall.Themuseumishometoseveralimportantpre‐historicdiscoveries.“Happy,”

theseventy‐two‐footlong,fourteen‐foottallHaplocanthosaurusdelfsi,animmense

sauropodfromtheJurassicperiod,istheonlyadultdinosaurofitskindeverfound

andwasestablishedasanewspeciesin1988,thirty‐fouryearsafteritsdiscoveryby

museumresearchersin1954.HappyreignsovertheKirtlandHallofPrehistoric

Life,sharinghonorswiththemuseum’sworld‐classcollectionofDevonianAgefossil

fishthatincludestheDunkleosteusterrilli,anarmoredfishoftheOhioshale,an

immenseDevonianseathatstretchedacrossOhio.Anothersignificantfossilisthe

skullofNanotyrannuslancensis,asmalltyrannosaurusrex‐likecreaturethatisthe

subjectofintensedebateamongresearchersastowhethertheskullisthatofa

juvenileT.rexoragenusofitsown,thenanotyrannus.Otherfossilsondisplay

includetheJohnstownMastodon,commoninOhioattheendoftheiceage,the

Triceratopshorridusfacedoffagainstitsmortalenemy,theTyrannosaurusrex,and

theskeletonofthefearsomesaber‐toothedcat,Smilodonfatalis.KirtlandHallisalso

hometo“Lucy,”Australopithicusafarensis,acastofthepartialskeletonofa3.2

17

million‐year‐oldhominiddiscoveredin1974inEthiopiabyDonaldJohanson,then

oftheClevelandMuseumofNaturalHistory.Lucy,namedaftertheBeatles’ssong,

“LucyintheSkywithDiamonds,”provedtobeakeylinkinevolutionarystudies,

showingthatthesehominidshadwalkederect.

ThemuseumisalsohometoBalto,thefamoussleddogwhobroughtalife‐saving

shipmentofanti‐diphtheriaserumintoNome,Alaska,onthelastlegofa674‐mile

relaythroughblindingsnow,50‐belowtemperatures,andhurricane‐forcewinds,

naturalelementsthatdefeatedalloftheadvancedtransportationsystemsofthe

time.The“GreatRaceofMercy”tosavethesickchildrenofNomecapturedthe

attentionoftheentireUnitedStates.Despitetheirheroism,thedogseventuallyfell

preytopromotersandbecamevaudevillesideshowacts.AClevelandbusinessman,

GeorgeKimble,discoveredBaltoandsixothersofthefamousdogsilland

mistreatedina“dime”museuminLosAngeles.Heorganizedanationwidecampaign

toraisemoneytosavethedogs.ManyClevelandersstillrememberdonating

penniesaschildrentotheBaltoFund.BaltoandhisfriendsreturnedtoClevelandto

aheroes’paradethroughthePublicSquareandlivedouttheremainderoftheir

livesattheClevelandZoo.Baltodiedin1933andismountedandondisplayatthe

museum.

Inconjunctionwithanewexhibit,“ClimateChange,”visitorsinNovember2011will

beabletotourSmartHomeCleveland,duetobeconstructedonthemuseum

groundsandondisplaythroughDecember31,2011.Designedusing“passive

18

house”methodology,thehousewillbe90percentmoreenergyefficientthana

traditionalhouseandwillnothaveafurnace,whichisalittlescaryconsideringthe

typicalClevelandwinter."Passivehouse"structureshavehighlevelsofinsulation,

withwallsupto18inchesthick,asealedskinthatcombinesminimalairleakage

withefficientheat‐recoveryventilation,andultrahigh‐performancetriple‐paned

windows.The2,500squarefoothousewillhavethreebedroomsandtwoandahalf

bathsandwilleventuallybemovedtoanadjacentneighborhoodandsold.The

“ClimateChange”exhibitistouringinternationallyandisorganizedbytheAmerican

MuseumofNaturalHistory,theClevelandMuseumofNaturalHistory,andanumber

ofotherdomesticandinternationalmuseums.TheClevelandMuseumofNatural

HistoryisopenMondaythroughSaturdayfrom10:00a.m.to5:00p.m.,Wednesday

from10:00a.m.to10:00p.m.,andSundayfromnoonto5:00p.m.Admissionis$10

foradults.ThePlanetariumshowscost$4inadditiontothemuseumentrancefee.

Formoreinformation,visitwww.cmnh.org.

LeavingSteggie,Happy,andBaltobehind,followaroundthecircleashortdistance

northuntilyoureachtheWesternReserveHistoricalSociety,theinstitution’s

UniversityCirclecomplexthatincludestheBingham‐HannaandHay‐McKinney

mansions,theCrawfordAutoAviationMuseum,andtheLibrary/Archivesand

GeneologyCenter.Foundedin1867,theWRHSistheoldestculturalinstitutionin

NortheastOhiowhosemissionisto“preserveandpresentthehistoryofallpeople”

oftheWesternReserve.In1786,thestateofConnecticutrelinquisheditsclaimsto

itswesternlandsoftheUnitedStatesexceptforaportionofnortheasternOhio,

19

roughlythesizeofConnecticutknownastheConnecticutWesternReserve.This

areawaseventuallysurveyedandsettledbytheConnecticutLandCompanyandhas

sincebeenknownastheWesternReserve.

SteppingintotheentrancelobbyoftheWesternReserveHistoricalSociety,avisitor

isimmediatelysurroundedbyevidenceofCleveland’sindustrialpast.ChiefWahoo,

theClevelandIndians’mascot,shinesfromonewallasitusedtofromaboveGateD

attheoldMunicipalStadium,aproductoftheBrilliantSignCompany.Fillingthe

walloppositetheentranceisamuralproducedbytheFerroEnamelCompanythat

madeenamelcoveringsforrefrigerators.Withitsdynamocenterstage,themural

wasdisplayedintheHomeFurnishingsBuildingofthe1939World’sFairandisthe

world’slargestporcelainenamelmural.Inthewindow,a1932Peerlesscar,thelast

onecompletelybuiltinClevelandbythePeerlessCarCompany,remindsvisitors

thatClevelandwasonceahubofautomobilemanufacturing.Anda1929orangeand

creamcoloredGreatLakesSportsTrainerbi‐plane,builtinClevelandbytheGreat

LakesAircraftCorporation,notonlyrecallsthecity’shistoryinaircraft

manufacturingbutalsoservesasinspirationforthescalewoodandpapermodel

builtfromacommercialkitproducedbytheClevelandModelCompanydisplayedin

thetrainer’sshadow.

Thehistorymuseummakesuseoftwoadjoiningthree‐storyItalianRenaissance

mansionsbuiltintheearlytwentiethcenturyofmasonryconstructionand

connectedbyacentraladdition.TheHay‐McKinneyMansionwasbuiltbyMrs.John

20

Hay,thewidowofJohnHay,oneofPresidentLincoln’sprivatesecretaries,andlater

SecretaryofState.Mrs.Hay,adaughterofrailroadmagnateAmasaStone,never

livedinthehouseanditwassoldafterherdeathtoPriceMcKinney,whosesteel

companywaslaterabsorbedintoRepublicSteel.TheBingham‐Hannamansionwas

originallybuiltbyHarryBinghamandhiswife,Harriette,butthey,too,neverlived

inthehouse.InsteaditwassoldtothewidowofLeonardC.Hanna,whosefamily

foundedtheM.A.HannaandCompany,oneofCleveland’smajoriron‐ore

companies.ThehousesfeatureperiodroomsfilledwiththeSociety’sextraordinary

collectionofdecorativeartsaswellasrotatingexhibitsthatdrawonthedeep

collectionsofthesociety.

HistoriansoftechnologywillofcoursebedrawntotheCrawfordAutoAviation

Museum,afabulouscollectionthatincludesthefullrangeofmachinesthathave

propelledpeopleandthingsincludingbicycles,automobiles,motorcycles,and

aircraft.Thecollectionstretchesfromthe1895PanhardLevassor,theoldest

enclosedcarintheworld,toDexter,CWRU’sroboticvehiclethatreachedthe

semifinalsofDARPA’s2007UrbanChallenge.Inbetween,youwillfindexamplesof

carsproducedfromClevelandfirms,suchasJordan,Winton,Peerless,Stearns,

Hoffman,andChandler,thefirstDeloreanofftheproductionline,amagnificent

1929Minervawitha180‐inchwheelbase,andastainlesssteel‐clad1959

Thunderbird.Thecollectionalsoincludesadozenairplanes,andfeaturessomethat

flewintheClevelandNationalAirRacesheldbetween1929and1949.Therearetoo

manyvehicles—over150—todescribeadequately(althoughmyfavoritesinclude

21

1938HayesTravelTrailerandthe1920White‐builtDan‐DeePotatoChipdelivery

truck),butrestassuredthatavisitherewillbewell‐rewarded.

TheSociety’sLibraryandArchives/GenealogyCenteristheprincipalrepositoryfor

histories,records,andpapersrelatingtothegrowthanddevelopmentofCleveland

andNortheasternOhio.Researcherscanconsulttheonlinecatalogtosearchfor

relevantcollections.Themuseumisopen10:00a.m.to5:00p.m.Tuesdaythrough

Saturday.ThelibraryisopenthesamehoursThursdaythroughSaturday.

Admissiontothehistoryandautomuseumis$8.50foradults.Formore

informationvisitwww.wrhs.org.

Asyoucanseefromthisdescription,ForbesMagazinehasitallwrong.Clevelandisa

greatplacetoliveandvisit.However,afteralongdayseeingthesights,youwill

needtogetbackonthebus.YoucanfindthestopinfrontoftheCWRUThwing

StudentCenter,justeastofSeveranceHallonEuclidAvenue.Cleveland’sindustrial

andculturalheritagemakesourcityagreatplaceforaSHOTmeetingandwehope

youwilltakesometimetodiscoverthisforyourself.TheDepartmentofHistoryat

CaseWesternReserveUniversitylooksforwardtowelcomingallofyouto

Cleveland.

22

MollyW.BergerisAssociateDeanoftheCollegeofArtsandSciencesandInstructor

ofHistoryatCaseWesternReserveUniversity.VirginiaP.Dawsonisthefounderof

HistoryEnterprises,Inc.

TheauthorswouldliketothankRenataBrown,JimEdmonson,CarolineGoeser,

JohnGrabowski,DaleHilton,andBrianRedmondfortheirenthusiasmand

generosityinshowcasingtheirmuseumsduringthepreparationofthisessay.