AN ADVENTURE STORYBy Clyde Talley Earnest, Sr.

Secretary-Treasurer of theAmerican Red Cross Medical Mission to Roumania

July 1917 to January 1918

“It never occurred to me that I would ever see the Black Sea.”

PrologueBy Clyde T Earnest, Jr.

“It never occurred to me that I would ever see the Black Sea, except upon a map, and here it is before my eyes in

reality.” [November 20th 1917]

Imagine that today is July 20th, 1917.

A little over three years ago, Archduke Ferdinand was assassinated in Sarajevo, Bosnia, starting World War I. Just four months ago, Tsar Nicholas II abdicated his rule over Russia and Alexander Kerensky formed the Provisional Government. Soon thereafter President Woodrow Wilson delivered his War Message to Congress, and the US declared war on April 6, 1917.

These world conditions prevailed when our father, then 29 years old, received a long distance phone call asking him to go to the war zone seven days hence, to be gone for at least six months. He was married (to Mary, his first wife) and had an eight-year-old daughter, Opal. And he was in business with his older brother Jim, selling building materials as Earnest Bros., Inc.

Now, Dad was born on a farm outside Richmond, Virginia, and was not “well-to-do”, even though his father even though his father had his Masters license and was first mate on the "Old Dominion" side-wheeler steamship plying from Richmond to New York. He retired in 1912. Dad went to public school in Richmond, then to business school while his mother operated a boarding house in Richmond to help support the family of three boys (Jim, Clyde, and Herbert) and 2 girls (Mollie and Etta); Thelma, eldest daughter, died young.

At some time after finishing school, he was employed by a railroad, the high tech outfit of the early years of the century, where he was the personal assistant (or secretary) to the President. We think it was the Baltimore & Ohio; Henry Anderson served as the lawyer for the railroad. The position required him to travel extensively (on this railroad system) with the president as he oversaw operations. To our knowledge, he had no other travel experience prior to the surprising phone call in 1917, although he had amassed a deep understanding of

railroads and how they worked -- which is apparent in his notes on the astounding trip he was about to undertake.

We now invite you to read about his grand adventure, as told by Dad in his own contemporaneous words and opinions.

Diary

The real start of my trip was the ringing of the telephone bell at my home [in Richmond] early in the morning, about July 20th 1917. I was asked by long distance telephone if I could arrange my affairs so I could take a trip abroad. It sounded well. The only information I could get was that I would not go to France. Not being able to secure the details by telephone, I left on the noon train for Baltimore, and a conference on the subject resulted the following day in my appointment as Assistant Secretary of the American Red Cross Mission to Roumania, with the rank of First Lieutenant. (Later I was made Assistant Secretary and Treasurer). I mention the above because everybody in the party had to decide on very short notice to make this long trip. I will admit that I had to look up Roumania on the map before I could get the exact location of this little country.

The function of this Mission, as we all understood it, was to go to Roumania, locate and establish a hospital, the personnel for which went with us, investigate conditions there, and return with a report to National Headquarters at Washington, recommending the amount of money which should be spent there and how it should be spent.

July 26 th , 1917 -- We mobilized at Chicago this morning (Saturday), leaving at 6:35 P.M. for Vancouver, B.C. We had an extremely busy day checking up [on] passports, luggage and shopping.

We found our party was to consist of seven commissioners (headed by Lieut. Colonel Henry W. Anderson, of Richmond, Va.), Secretarial force, twelve doctors (headed by Major W.D. Kirkpatrick), and eleven nurses (headed by Miss Florence Patterson) -- a total of thirty-seven.

The following morning work commenced in connection with getting all needed supplies to Vancouver, our port of embarkation.

Vermin suits, duffle bags, medicines, foodstuffs and many other things had to be looked after.

The doctors and nurses are to be envied, to some extent, on the trip across the States and, in fact, until we landed in Russia. It is for them one grand pleasure jaunt. It must be remembered, however, that these doctors and nurses have volunteered to go into epidemic territory where the dreaded Typhus is prevalent and to work among the people afflicted, until the termination of the war -- a much more dangerous task than the one in France. It was very strenuous work for the secretarial staff, as they had things innumerable to do.

During the trip to Vancouver via rail across the American as well as the wonderful Canadian Rockies, the thermometer ran as high as 100 [degrees].

Vaccinations for Typhoid were begun on the train. Some of us took the inoculation in the upper arm and others in the chest. The next inoculation will come when we are "at sea". Many of the boys feel queer to some extent after the first dose.

At 6:00 A.M., July 30th, we crossed the boundary line and we are now in Canada. Weather much better, air cooler and bracing. Quite an agreeable change. We arrived at Moose Jaw, Canada, at 11:15 A.M. We saw at the station a number of Canadian troops fresh from France, most of them having come out of the hospitals, which they praised very highly.

The members of the Scottish Troops, who are also here and most of whom are going to Victoria, B.C., are very picturesque in their kilts and "Little Bob" hats.

Our first touch of war was a sad one -- there were two or three soldiers on the train who are said to be demented, or at least partly so, as result of shell fire.

One of the soldiers told us that the food question among the French soldiers was pretty serious - that it was considered an unpardonable offense to waste anything, and, that after meals the scraps were gathered up, even to the extent of remnants of food on the plates which had been chewed, and they were all returned to the culinary department and later on were served in a different style to the same men.

We saw several members of the Royal Northwest Mounted Police, an organization somewhat similar to our Texas Rangers. They

were gaudily clad in flaming red coats and black military trousers. They are all picked men, splendidly built. We were informed that they would likely be sent abroad in a body or else a selected list therefrom would have to go.

Daylight found us this morning at Calgary and, very shortly thereafter, the labored puffing of the locomotive gave notice that we were ascending a heavy grade.

Naturally it is becoming cooler and anyone would know that steam was on from the pounding in the heater pipes.

We are now among the real Rockies, having left the dry and dusty prairies behind us and the change in the weather is most agreeable and exhilarating to us all.

The Canadian Pacific advertises "Fields" as one place that no one can afford not to visit, but we are making a bee-line to connect with our steamer. It is indeed too bad that we have to rush through this truly wonderful country. One could easily spend months among the mountain streams, paths, crags, etc., enjoying every minute of the time. Several members of our party have been fortunate enough to visit this particular territory before, one in particular having camped in the immediate vicinity of Fields with his family and has an intimate knowledge of the mountain trails and mountain streams. It was interesting to hear his story, after a short stop of the train. His previous trip had been prior to the war and he found upon inquiry that practically to a man all of the old guides had responded to the colors and many of them are back now -- badly wounded and some maimed for life. Already we are beginning to understand from actual experience that Canada is doing her "bit".

One of the most wonderful pieces of scenery I have ever seen was in the Canadian Rockies. We are pulling an extremely heavy grade and the Canadian Pacific has attached to the rear end of the train a small open car, with seats arranged as in an ordinary trolley car, with an aisle in the center. Needless to say, the seats were quickly filled. I have not the descriptive powers to do the country justice. The grade is very heavy and the surrounding country, for miles, is magnificent in its rugged mountainous beauty, with very picturesque silvery streams, running along down in the valley, which seems very distant indeed.

During the entire trip from Chicago to Vancouver the secretarial force has been kept very busy, both day and night, on details of every character in connection with the handling of the party, gathering of

supplies, etc. It is a life-size job to handle such a party.

Wednesday, 9:45 A.M., August 1 st -- We arrived at Vancouver. After traveling for six nights and five days, everyone seems jubilant over the prospect of a short stay in Vancouver, and the long ocean voyage. At least I am sure this is the case with the hard- pressed secretarial force.

After some little excitement and bustle at the station, we arrived at the Vancouver Hotel, bag and baggage, and registered. The hotel is a handsome one, both exterior and interior, and the service excellent.

Up to this time we have been traveling in citizen clothes. Orders have just come from the Colonel to cast off these clothes for the balance of the trip and appear in uniform for inspection at 11:00 A.M. in the Assembly Hall, which has been provided at the hotel for our use. So, suddenly, we are Red Cross Officers in full regalia.

Upon our arrival, we were advised that Wednesday was a half day holiday. It seems in Canada the question of whether a half day holiday should be had on Saturday or on Wednesday was put to a vote and the decision was Wednesday.

Our appearance in uniform on the streets of Vancouver attracted considerable attention, or rather, so it seemed to many of us. We felt very strange and uncomfortable in returning the salutes of the many wounded soldiers in the city, who had returned from the front. The feeling was not one of pride to us in being saluted, but rather one of shame in being so honored by these wonderful fighters.

In the shops, where all of us want to add to our supply of this or that, we were treated with every consideration and kindly feeling.

Knowing that we embark shortly for a somewhat dangerous trip with chances not more than even that we will return, most of us had a dozen or so good photographs taken, to be forwarded by the Photographer to the folks at home. Already we have gotten considerable information in reference to the dreaded disease of Typhus and we are destined to a country wherein it is very prevalent.

Thursday, August 2 nd -- We are scheduled to sail today at 11:00 A.M., on the Empress of Russia. We did not actually pull out, however, until after midnight.

A group picture was taken of the entire party on the roof of the

Vancouver Hotel, but it did not turn out very satisfactorily.

Everybody was aboard the Empress of Russia at 5:00 P.M. Due to the many miles between most of us and our families and friends, the usual "Farewell, wish you bon voyage" fruit baskets, etc., are missing. I was very happy to receive a telegram from J.G.E. [older brother] which I ran across on the dresser in my cabin as soon as I came in. It is strange what satisfaction and happiness one can get out of a few words scribbled or typewritten on a yellow sheet, just before sailing across the deep unknown.

Several of us left the ship and ate dinner in the city, but had to pay dearly for it later, as many supplies were received and all hands were kept very busy until after midnight. Many letters and reports had to be gotten off to Washington as no more mail could be sent off until our arrival at Yokohama (except the next morning at Victoria). The usual excitement of leaving for a trip across the pond was, however, missing, or toned down to a great extent, as we are already many miles from home and in a foreign country.

Friday, August 3 rd -- On Board Empress of Russia. We sailed out of Vancouver sometime after midnight. We anchored early this morning at Victoria, B.C., which is on Vancouver Island, miles at sea from Vancouver City. At breakfast (my first meal on the Empress of Russia) we are advised that the ship will sail at 4:00 P.M., so accordingly we are making arrangements to go ashore and see something of Victoria. Several of us hired an automobile to go sight seeing. We saw, among other things, abandoned training camps, entrenchments, bayonet practice dummies, which consisted of bales of straw swung from horizontal bars, etc. We drove through the park and took a number of pictures and finally landed at the Canadian Pacific Hotel. This is truly a great hotel for such a small town. It seems impossible that the Canadian Pacific Railway can make money on this investment.

We saw a number of youngsters in bathing although the water must have been pretty cold.

The population of Victoria is about sixty thousand, but this has been considerably depleted as this immediate vicinity has contributed fifteen thousand men to the front.

We saw a good many soldiers, but of course not nearly as many as we saw at Vancouver.

It is a feature of the Annual Reports of the Banks in Victoria to list the names of those of their staff who are at the front. Those killed

are shown on the Honor Roll.

We later returned to the ship. We were all impressed with the cleanliness of the city and the beautiful lawns and flowers, of which there are an abundance.

There are several ships in the harbor, some unloading and others loading. Among them there is a Japanese steamer, from which rice is being unloaded rapidly.

Promptly at 4:00 P.M. the Empress of Russia backed away from the pier and by night we are again out of sight of land and this time for many days.

I am in a very nice room with two others of our party about midships on B deck. The two assistant secretaries and myself room together. Our room contains two good bunks, or one bed and a bunk above, and a bed lounge. We drew lots and it is my luck to get the bed in the lower. We also have a wardrobe and a washstand, the top of the latter when lowered turning this piece of furniture into a very serviceable desk.

We have Chinese waiters, room boys, etc., in fact all Chinese help, and the rapidity with which your wants are taken care of is nothing short of remarkable. They understand only a few simple English words and these have to be spoken very slowly, but none of us have found it necessary yet to speak slowly in order to be sure the service is performed properly. The sign language is the universal language and already we are becoming adept at it. Our Room Boy's name is "Aha" and the Dining Table Boy "Ahoy" -- another's name is "Lum Ti".

We were assigned to the first sitting in the Dining Room. I am at a table with three others of our party, just to the left of the Captain's table.

The above is not set down in its proper place in this wonderful little dairy, but may prove interesting, so I jotted it down -- will write more later.

Saturday, August 4 th -- Ideal weather this morning with a nice breeze and the Empress of Russia is making good time and incidentally causing some uncomfortableness among our jovial party. It seems rather early in the game to record cases of mal de mer, but three of our nurses are already suffering to some extent from it.

At a meeting this morning at 10:00 A.M. in the Dining Room, Colonel Anderson stated that various members of the Unit, who were well informed along particular lines, would be requested to deliver short talks from time to time. To start the ball rolling, he invited Major Kirkpatrick to make a brief talk regarding the conditions which we are likely to encounter in Roumania.

Major Kirkpatrick is the Director of our Medical Unit and saw service in the Serbian campaign, at Belgrade, Serbia, for about four months, shortly after the World War started.

He said that the deadly disease of Typhus, which is so prevalent in Roumania, and with which our Unit will have to contend, is caused by the bite of a louse. Typhus enters the system through the bacilli in the blood and its immediate effect is to poison the heart and impair the nerve centers. He spoke of Dr. Anderson, and one or two of the nurses, who had unfortunately contracted this disease, and stated that its effects, in some instances, were to produce physical disability for life. He stated that at Belgrade Typhus assumed a violent form, because the people were ill-prepared to overcome it. He further stated that the average Serbian was just as clean as the average American laborer or workman, that they wore a piece of cloth over their clothing, and examinations showed that their undergarments were changed as often as conditions permitted, but owing to the cold weather and lack of proper food and clothing, incidental to the ravages of the War, these poor people had huddled together in bodily warmth to minimize their suffering, with the result that Typhus became widespread.

The treatment at the hospital at Belgrade was to strip the patients, shave them thoroughly, bathe and then anoint their bodies with naphthol. The patients are then taken onto the front porch, or receiving room, where many of them die but some respond to the treatment.

This kind of talk naturally had the effect of causing everyone among our party to think more of the serious side of our Mission and work up plans in advance as far as possible.

There were, however, many ludicrous remarks passed, but the questioners were after all looking for information. Many of us wanted to know what kind of looking insect it was and whether it crawled, jumped, hopped, or just how did it manage its locomotion. Another wanted to know how the vermin could be "baffled". It seems that this particular deadly species of the family moves by a slow crawl and can not hop or move rapidly, and the only way to baffle it is by the liberal

use of kerosene or naphthol to prevent it from using you as a habitation. He stated that in their hospital work, the physicians used an operating gown with a tight draw string around the neck band, wrists and feet and certain antidotes were sprinkled at these various points of entrance to discourage these apparently inquisitive visitors.

After listening to Major Kirkpatrick's talk, we began to realize what a great clean, healthy country we were leaving behind us. Such is life, we are never satisfied and can not be convinced without being shown, that we are already better off than the other fellow. That poor little country of Roumania must be in one awful fix.

About 11:00 A.M. today, two of us were on the top deck about midships talking rather generally on the subject of the submarine campaign. We were suddenly aroused to the fact that we were aboard a ship in the Pacific by several blasts of the whistle. We were naturally chocked full of excitement, thinking that a submarine was after us, and to bear out this belief, we saw coming from every doorway along the entire side of the ship, chinaman after chinaman, until the deck was half filled with the yellow men, and, in less time than it takes to tell, there they were lined up ready at the various life boats. The life boats (with the exception of one large one on each side of the ship on the deck) are all carried swung outward ready for an emergency. It developed, however, that this was not an emergency, but a life-boat drill, and we witnessed many others before reaching Yokohama.

Sunday, August 5 th -- Church services were held at 10:45 A.M. in the Dining Room, being conducted by Capt. Robinson, assisted by the Chief Officer. The Service was that of the Church of England (Episcopal), but very simple and really impressive to me. Even the rawest sinner, when at sea, must feel very meek during a Church Service. The Captain occupied the seat at the head of his table, over the end of which had been spread the British Flag; a candelabra with three candles burning was in front of him. The attendance was good. We felt somewhat out of place in praying for the good health of King George, but we are on a ship flying "His Majesty's" flag and being protected by men of that nationality.

Weather much more desirable today and, although it is foggy, it is pleasant on deck, but cool.

Today being Sunday the Chinese waiters discarded their picturesque white gowns, which resemble to some extent night gowns, and appeared in a similar costume of blue. The Head Steward wears white when the others wear blue, and visa versa.

Everyone comments upon the good food, but more particularly upon the remarkable efficient service.

We also had Church Service in the evening. We attended in a body. The Service was opened by Rev. J.H. Cashmore of the Church of England, followed by Bishop Burt of the Methodist Episcopal Church at Buffalo, N.Y. He was followed by the Rev. Moore Anderson of the English Presbyterian Church, who is a Cambridge man now located at Shanghai, engaged in missionary work. The music for the Service was rendered by Miss Torrence, one of our nurses.

Monday, August 6 th -- Smooth sea day. Everybody is happy.

We had our regular meeting at 10:30 A.M. in the Dining Room. One or two of the party suffering from mal de mer were not able to sit up and take notice. Major Peridna delivered an address upon the subject of sanitation, which was quite interesting. I am very busy today checking up accounting matters, as I have been given the job of Assistant Treasurer, in addition to Assistant Secretary.

Tuesday, August 7 th -- Sea continues smooth -- have been hoping to see real rough weather, but there seems to be no hope. One of my room-mates is with me in the hope that we will see the old ship pitch and toss. After traveling across the Pacific it seems foolish not to have known or experienced what is known as real rough sea. We may get our wish yet. The Empress of Russia is plowing along through the water rapidly, but the day’s run was not posted. Due to the war, the Captain has issued orders that the day's run be not posted.

At the meeting at 10:30 A.M. Major Peabody addressed us on the subject of personal sanitation. He laid stress upon the fact that the ways of the East are not the ways of the West. As indicating the viewpoint of the Japanese, he spoke of a monument erected by them in one of the hospital grounds to the rabbits, which had given their lives (or had them taken from them) in the cause of vivisection.

No wireless messages are allowed to be sent from the ship at all, but we do receive occasionally news items, which are posted and read by everyone with considerable interest, in order to keep up with the Russian situation.

Dancing going on every evening immediately after dinner just outside of the Dining Room. It is not necessary to be introduced -- after twenty-four hours on board ship, it is considered perfectly proper to speak to any one or to request a dance of any lady, although you may not have seen her before, even on board ship. We are

availing of this custom of the sea. We are unfortunate (and I suppose the nurses fortunate) that only one of our nurses has so far braved the dancing. This one young lady is kept extremely busy as long as she will stay in the Dancing Room, but we of course dance with the others also. There are Spain, Holland, England, France, America and other countries represented among the dancing ladies, of whom there are not more than twenty. There are never twenty couples dancing at one time. It is no easy job to dance either, at first, on a ship that is rolling one way and then another, but it is great sport and we enjoy this feature of the trip very much. It is very common to see all of the dancers suddenly start toward the same side of the ship and then miss a step or two before they catch their balance.

In addition to dancing we have several games which can be played on board ship, the most popular of which seems to be tennis. Instead of using rackets and balls, one uses his hand and a canvas ring, which has to be caught and returned, etc.

Wednesday, August 8 th -- Today is a lost one. Every day since leaving Vancouver, we have been kept rather busy changing our watches, until today is not known at all officially. We simply jump from Tuesday to Thursday. We will pick up this day coming back, should we return via the Pacific, or if going back the Atlantic we will gradually pick it up going across Russia, England and the Atlantic.

Thursday, August 9 th -- Foggy and cold this morning. Major Wells spoke at our morning meeting, upon the subject of the general effects of Typhus, etc. It was not a line of talk to make us enthuse over the country to which we are bound. He stated that a Typhus patient suffered immediate deterioration of the heart muscles. Also that it is very common for patients to commit suicide.

Sometimes it seems as though these gentlemen derive pleasure out of telling us these unpleasant truths, but it is done for the purpose of impressing upon us the importance of taking every known precaution as a preventive.

All heads were vaccinated this morning against Small Pox. I was a little late in going for mine and Major Peabody gave me a pretty stiff jab in the upper left arm for my lack of punctuality. As one having passed through the experience, I give you the "tip" to never delay a good doctor at meal time.

A number of whales have been sighted. In one or two cases the backs of the great monsters have been seen above the surface of the water -- sometimes they are spouting. Pretty sight.

Friday, August 10 th -- This good ship did some little rolling around last night, which continues this morning. The thick fog cleared away considerably about noon. At the 10:30 meeting Major Bryan gave an interesting talk on his experiences in hospital work on the Western Front.

After-dinner dancing in the Dining Saloon Entrance is becoming more and more popular. The music is all string music, rendered by Filipinos -- about eight or nine of them. They know several American tunes. Their favorites are "Robert E. Lee" and "Oh You Great Big Beautiful Doll". They are particularly strong on the last mentioned one and play it over and over again. They play entirely by ear. There are several exceptionally good dancers. I found a young Holland lady, of rather dark complexion, as a partner and she developed to be a natural born dancer.

Saturday, August 11 th -- It is warm and sun shiny this morning for the first time.

Last night, while the music and dancing was at its height in the Dining Room, Entrance, Prayer Services were being held in the Dining Room, immediately adjoining, by some of the Missionaries on board ship, led by Bishop Burt, of Buffalo, N.Y.

The wonderful Chinese service continues to be one of our main topics of conversation and the everlasting joy of the entire party.

Major Flexner talked to us today at the morning meeting and gave us some valuable information regarding Roumania, illustrating his lecture by a map of that Country.

It looks like we are going to have good weather tomorrow.

Sunday, August 12 th -- Church Service this morning was abandoned on account of heavy fog. All of the officers are required at their posts.

We visited the other decks, second and even steerage, but it is very hard to describe. The second class passengers are not allowed among the first class at all. They might just as well be on another ship so far as social intercourse is concerned. In the steerage we saw the chink passengers playing all kinds of gambling games, which by the way is strictly forbidden, but there seems to be no way to put a stop to it. It was interesting but not exciting.

We were later advised by Captain Robinson that the turbines of

the Mauritania revolved only about one half as fast as the turbine of this ship, which accounts for less vibration on the Empress of Russia.

I might remark right here that the water of the Pacific seems to be of a different shade than that of the Atlantic. It has a bluer cast- - not so green.

Every day we take long walks around the top deck, six times around is a mile, and in this way we have kept in pretty good physical condition. The writer is fortunate in having been blessed with excellent health -- not an ache or pain.

In the evening everyone went to the Dining Room entrance to listen to a rather long talk by a Mr. Frederic Coleman (who is an American who had been living in England for several years) on the subject of the French front. He was interesting, but for the writer’s taste, there was too much of it. Collections were taken up over the entire ship for the Red Cross, directed by American Minister, Mr. Vopicka, and $201.06 was collected.

Coming into warmer climate, the ship’s officers have changed their heavy uniforms and appeared today in white duck. They look bully. How I wish the Red Cross had such a uniform.

There was the usual inspection of the Chinks and they appeared in their Sunday best.

Monday, August 13th -- Continues warmer. About 9:30 this morning the ship gave a sudden unaccountable lurch. It threw some of us around pretty lively and we thought for a moment an accident had happened, but we learned that the ship had made a sudden turn to avoid striking a whale. Many porpoises were seen by us, but no whales this A.M.

Our last meeting on board ship was held today at 10:30.

The total number of souls on the Empress of Russia is one thousand, one hundred and eighty, divided as follows:

Saloon Passengers 287Russians 67Chinese 226Second Class 62Japanese 6

Total Passengers 649

Crew, Officers (all Europeans) 61

Chinese Servants 470Grand Total 1,180

A wonderful and most enjoyable wild dance of abandon was held on the top deck aft tonight (the last night), in which practically everyone joined. It did not start until about 11:30 or 12 o'clock and we all had a great time, knowing that most of us would never see each other again. After the dancing, many lingered and drank high balls and other good things until the "wee" hours of the morning, and there were many couples up late in order to be with each other as long as possible, never to meet again after the ship runs in in the morning.

Tuesday, August 14 th -- Today we awoke to find ourselves in the harbor of Yokohama and, lying at anchor in sight were two of Uncle Sam's Men of War -- The Brooklyn and the Cincinnati. Gosh! Old Glory did look good, and there to our left was a big hotel, at which we all expected to stop, but which we all visited later during our Japanese stay. We had changed our schedule and will go straight through to Tokyo and remain there until we depart for Russia. Our delay at Yokohama was not long. The Japanese officials are very courteous. The Japanese newspaper men are right on the job. Group pictures were taken on board ship (by the newspaper men) of our party and later appeared in their papers. We finally went ashore, without examination of baggage or any trouble at all with the customs -- they passed us en masse without examination at all, as a courtesy.

It is a grand, grand thing to be on terra firma again. We were struck particularly by the fact that there are hundreds of boats in the harbor, but they are all very small rickety looking fishing smacks, operated most of them with only one oar from the stern.

It is truly a great sight to see our party, men and women, for the first time riding in rikishas, and in such a large party. We were en route from the wharf to the street car station. One of our doctors of rather heavy stature caused his Jap rikisha man to lose his grip when he mounted and had a near-spill.

My first experience today with Japanese money. Their dollar is called yen and their cent is called sen. Ordinarily one yen is worth fifty cents in American money and a sen of course worth one-half cent. We were stung by the rikisha men, I found later. They charged us one yen to the station and it should have been about thirty or forty sen.

The street car fare (about forty-five minutes ride) from Yokohama to Tokyo, is fifty-one sen (25c). Here we all are, packed into a Japanese street car, side by side with our supposedly future

enemies, and we find them delightful and I can not possibly make you understand how very polite -- and dressed in such peculiar costumes. We actually know that we are not on our own dear soil, but really in a foreign land, where everything is strange and new to us -- with an impossible tongue heard on all sides. Fortunately there is a Jap on the car who understands English and he told the conductor where to put us off.

There is nothing particularly out of the ordinary about their streetcars, except that they have first, second and third class, but we had difficulty in telling the difference.

We finally arrived at Tokyo, a good-sized station, built somewhat along the lines of those in New York, and again took rikishas to the Imperial Hotel, where we stopped for about a week.

Instead of putting down happenings according to date, I will do my best to give my impressions of the visit and our experiences.

The food at the Imperial Hotel was not much, at least it did not particularly appeal to us and then again we missed our wonderful Chinese Waiters. We have been spoiled by our experiences on the Empress of Russia, I am afraid. Never again will I believe that a Japanese servant can compare at all with the Chinese. There isn't any comparison.

Our rooms are very roomy. There are many mosquitoes here and they provide netting for the beds and leave the windows wide open and furnish no screens. Some idea! We could never secure any satisfactory explanation of this. Evidently screens are unobtainable or very expensive in Japan.

The people, as a whole, are very economical and wonderful when it is taken into consideration that only a few decades back they were savages. Japan has come to the front very quickly. They developed rapidly along certain lines. In many ways, however, I think they are the most over-rated people in the world, but then you have to give them credit for having accomplished some remarkable things in the few years that they have been a really civilized people.

We found things cheap in the stores. For instance, belts for our uniforms which cost six dollars in Canada, we bought (or had made in a hurry) in Tokyo for Y7.00 ($3.50). Puttees cost us $8.50 in the States and we bought them in Tokyo for Y8.00, or $4.00.

You can get a rikisha boy to pull you around town for two or

three hours for Y1.50, or 75 cents. But, when you want to see the Geisha girls dance, you have to dig deep into your jeans.

Two of us took a rikisha and skedaddled down to one of these emporiums, took off our shoes and puttees at the entrance, and they escorted us into a small room, the four sides of which could be slid back upon occasion and we were invited to squat. Then about five of these little Japanese girls sat down and we carried on a wonderful conversation for a while. The girls were very delicate and charming, but not at all good looking, or beautiful. Finally we taught them to say several things in English and they were greatly pleased. We smoked and bought some Scotch and continued our chat. Then paper and pencil was produced and in some inconceivable way we learned their names and they wrote them in Japanese and we in turn wrote them in English and then the same with our names. Finally they brought forth a peculiar looking instrument, a cross between a banjo and a fiddle, and started to pick at it. It produced the most unmusical music I ever heard in all my life. One of them started to dance. It was a very serious business with them. In Japan, I understand, the Geisha girl is looked up to to a really remarkable extent, while the wife at home is good enough to do the housework and look after the Jap's comfort. She is a pretty good piece of furniture. To return to the dance -- finally all of them joined in and we encored. One of them wanted us to dance so we had a one-step and I found that they caught our steps very quickly, much to our surprise. Everything being over, our bill was presented. It amounted to about Y13.80 ($6.90). We went home immediately disgusted, feeling that we had not nearly gotten our money's worth, although we had taken up the time of four or five girls for about three quarters of an hour, or more.

We visited many of the shops in Tokyo and Yokohama, our uniforms attracting considerable attention, and were well received everywhere. The Japanese Red Cross Society is particularly attentive. They gave us a luncheon, presided over by one of their Barons. Our entire party was seated at a very long table, with Japanese men and women distributed here and there among us. The main decoration on the table was several large blocks of ice in the center of which were flowers. There were at least four or five of these on the table. The cakes of ice were about 18" x 12" x 10". There was a favor at each plate, all being fans of one description or another. The Baron made quite a long speech, at which we all listened very attentively, although we of course could not understand a word the gentleman was saying. After delivering the speech, he remained standing while the interpreter (Secretary of the Japanese Red Cross), who stood immediately behind him, translated the speech into English. The Baron then seated himself. Colonel Anderson arose, replied to the

speech in English, and the Japanese were just as attentive to what he said as we were to what the Baron had said. The Colonel followed out the same scheme as the Baron, remained standing while the translation was going on into Japanese.

The luncheon was excellent and we all had a most enjoyable time.

We also visited the Japanese hospitals. The doctors and nurses were naturally very much interested and made a very thorough inspection. The hospitals did not strike us as being nearly so complete and efficient as the hospitals in the States. Instead of everything being white, it looked just like any ordinary building, except that it was very large. The woodwork, however, was kept remarkably clean; one could see it had been really worn away with frequent scrubbings. They served tea for our entire party at the hospital.

Everybody is particularly polite in Japan and, naturally, we did not want to be outdone in the matter of politeness and we all acquired the habit of bowing and scraping, so much so that we could hardly refrain from continuing the performance when we were together at the hotel later. We had many pictures taken in front of the hospital, one official photograph and many newspaper snapshots. 1

On one of my shopping tours in Tokyo and Yokohama I bought kimonos, night gown, tablecloths, and other little souvenirs, most of which I am bringing back with me -- I did arrange to send one kimono home by an American friend whom I met in Yokohama and who is traveling for a subsidiary company of the Richmond Cedar Works.

Mills, McCarthy and myself had a wonderful dinner at the Hotel La France at Yokohama, with several American traveling men. We had been complaining about the poor food at the Imperial Hotel at Tokyo, and were truly hungry. Our appetites were certainly satisfied. We were served steak, chicken (whole chicken), asparagus, cauliflower, potatoes, chops, ice cream, cake and some other sweet dessert, coffee, champagne, wine and the Lord only knows what else. We thought the courses would never end, and it only cost us Y5.00 each, not including the wine and champagne, which was Y3.00 each additional. We then hired an automobile (by the way, Tokyo and Yokohama are very fond of Buicks) and went sight seeing.

We caught the streetcar about 11:00 P.M. and went back to

1 See photos on web site.

Tokyo. The many picturesque little huts we passed on the way in making this trip in daylight and other typical Japanese scenes, I can not properly describe. You will have to imagine them.

The Treasurer and I also visited Yokohama together on banking matters. Their banking methods are very interesting. They have a peculiar way of adding, for one thing. They do not use an adding machine, as all of our banks do, but have a small affair, resembling a child's toy -- wooden beads on wires and they slip these beads back and forth. Each clerk in the bank seems to have one of these small devices on his desk.

As an experiment, when we were on the train later between Tokyo and Tsuruga (on our way to Vladivostok, Russia), the boys got up a match between the Japs in the dining car and the writer, to see which was the faster -- their machine or the regular method of adding without a machine. To our great surprise and delight the Japs were very badly beaten. I could add up my figures three times while they were getting the result once. The fellow claimed to be good at it, but evidently he was a rank amateur.

While visiting a bank in Yokohama, I was introduced to a Japanese banker, named "Bryan". I thought the name very peculiar for a Japanese and was told later that this was not the man's real name, but that he had presented himself, a stranger, at the residence of a very prominent American by that name, years ago and announced that he was a great admirer, etc., of the gentleman and had come to pay him a visit. His visit, I am told, was for seven years, and since then he has assumed the name of "Bryan”.

There seems to be no architecture in Japan. The streets, with few exceptions, compare at least favorably with our alleys. The houses are all built very closely together and of very frail, inflammable material. One sees some brick buildings here and there, and some concrete and occasionally reinforced concrete in their larger buildings, several of which we saw under construction.

We visited the American Minister's office at Tokyo, to find that he was on his way from America to his post. Mr. Post Wheeler, the Charge d’Affaires, and his wife tendered us a very delightful informal tea at the Embassy -- an open air affair. It is not an imposing place, but the grounds, though small, are rather attractive. We are all disappointed in not seeing flowers growing profusely everywhere, but we are told that we are here at the wrong season. I am sorry because I think probably our entire perspective would be different if we had happened to be here at that particular season.

Alcoholic drinks can be obtained at the Hotel and other places in Tokyo and Yokohama. I mention this because in Russia no alcoholic drinks can be obtained. In Manchuria, of course, drinks of all kinds can be had.

We did not see many military officers, but nearly everybody wears a uniform of some character, and it was really impossible for us to differentiate between military officers and the people. As the Japanese people are extremely polite and look after that end of the game very religiously, we have all been cautioned to salute their officers. Not knowing the insignias, we are somewhat flustered as to how we are going to handle the matter. It was finally decided that each man had to use his own judgment and, if he thought the man was an officer, to salute him anyhow. If it developed he was not an officer, there was nothing lost. This naturally caused many laughable little incidents -- one of which I will relate. We are riding in rikishas through one of the very narrow streets and saw a short distance away a very elaborate uniform and we thought, by all means, that man is certainly a high military dignitary. Accordingly, in passing we all saluted him in great style, only to find out a few minutes later that he was a lackey. This did not deter us, however. We kept at it, determined to do the best we knew how.

Two of us went in a rikisha to hunt for a jeweler, to have a watch repaired. The streets are of plain earth with rows of shanties on either side -- that is, speaking of a typical street. Some have regular American shop windows, but most of them have an awning extended out to where the pavement should be -- but there was none -- and completely enclosed, with a flap in the front left open. Some have a few articles displayed upon a raised floor and the Japs remove their wooden soled slippers and squat on the floor to transact their business with the merchant. We caused quite a good deal of comment, none of which we could understand. Men and women, boys and girls of very small size, most of them wearing some kind of slippers, but none with socks or stockings, crowded around us, few of whom had anything to say. They simply watched us in open-mouthed wonder. I tried, in several of the shops to buy some tobacco, and found I amused them very much by my efforts to make them understand what I wanted.

The sewerage system, if they have one, is very poor. It is a smelly place. This may not be quite so pronounced or noticeable during the proper season, when there are plenty of flowers and foliage in general.

We quite frequently have tea served in our rooms, some of us having acquired the habit while aboard the Empress of Russia. I failed to mention that, while I had a very large, pretty room, there was no bath. Had to go out into the hall, where there were two bathrooms -- and this is the best hotel in the capital of the Island.

Several of us wanted to go out for a rikisha ride one night. Before going out, it had drizzled a little and then stopped. We found it very difficult to find a rikisha man, and when found, he thought it very funny. It not only amused him but many others, although it did not rain at all. He wanted to put the top up and the rain curtain in front and we had some trouble in persuading him it was not necessary to smother us.

It was very noticeable that the speed of the "For Hire" rikisha man is not nearly so great as that of the privately owned, nor quite so springy and strong looking. One can really be quite classy in a rikisha rig if he has a young fellow who holds himself well when running and has a good strong stride. These fellows all have enormous leg muscles. Most of them are very swarthy as to complexion.

We -- that is, two of us -- visited a curio shop. We were met at the door by a Japanese, who immediately called for someone else and a very charming young Japanese girl appeared and gave us a bow down to the ground and then motioned to us to come up stairs, where the curio shop was really located. For a wonder, we did not have to remove our shoes. The Jap, although the proprietor of the place, simply hung around to be of service, and the girl did all of the honors, until it came down to the matter of price. While we were wrangling with the proprietor, the little Japanese girl fetched in tea and crackers. I have never seen such polite people in all my life, but still they are clever when it comes down to trading. We bought a few souvenirs, after spending about a half hour in the place, and the young lady again bowed to the floor upon our departure.

I had lunch at the hotel at Yokohama one day with several of our party. We had a very good meal with wine. Afterwards we went to the various banks in the city working on the problem of purchasing sufficient Rubles (Russian money) to carry us through Russia. Later, I took a rikisha and alone made a very careful and thorough search for a good pair of leather leggins. I went into dozens of places and had many little experiences; tried on leggins at several shops, but had to finally give it up. Without exception, the Japs in the stores were very courteous and on the job. I finally found the leggins in Tokyo, but even then did not get exactly what I wanted.

We were given a very nice send-off when we left Tokyo. At the station there were many flowers on the platform, and the Baron, who presided at the luncheon given us by the Japanese Red Cross, presented Miss Patterson, our Chief Nurse, with a beautiful Red Cross Japanese pin, signifying fidelity to duty and love of her fellow-man in trouble. This is the first presentation of this particular pin to an American. Many speeches were made and we finally continued our long journey, going by rail to Tsuruga, our port of embarkation, for the trip across the Japan Sea, to Vladivostok. We slept in their funny little sleeping cars, very narrow, with beds arranged as they are in our Pullmans, but it really is not fair to compare them with our sleepers as they were in no way as good. They have both uppers and lowers, but in addition to the cars being narrow (due to a narrower gauge) the bunks were not long enough -- being used in Japan I suppose they were built to fit the Japanese stature. We had the diner on for dinner that night and breakfast the next morning. The meals were fair. Several pictures were taken by the boys en route on this piece, showing some of the real country life of Japan.

Upon arrival to Tsuruga the next morning, we saw the Penza, a fair sized, rotten looking and ill-smelling old ship, of the Russian Volunteer Fleet. We had to transfer the baggage and freight from the train to the hold of the vessel, or rather, had to see that it was done. My particular duty was to see that everything was paid for and watch my money bag, as I carry the funds of the Commission.

Having discovered that there were some ladies in swimming nearby and that it was customary for men and women to bathe together, I became rather fidgety to see this remarkable sight and immediately became very busy looking for someone to take care of my charges and finally succeeded. Three of us walked down to the river bank for about a quarter of a mile near some shaggy rocks for the swim. We were told before going that we would find women in bathing naked, but to pay no attention to them, but undress and go in the water; that they were accustomed to it and thought nothing of it. So, sure enough, upon our arrival, we saw at least six or eight of these Japanese mermaids and probably four or five men in bathing, all stripped. Some of the mermaids were walking towards the shore and before we reached them some of them were on land, quite nude. Following our cue, we ignored them, stripped and waded in, had our little swim and came ashore. The women did not seem at all to mind our appearance; in fact, they thought nothing about it. They were not in the slightest way vulgar. It is the custom in Japan.

Upon arriving in my smelly and impossible cabin, I found there were three berths, one lounge berth and one upper and lower. I took

the lounge. It was a pretty fair size room, but -- I had some work to do in connection with treasury matters and after getting straightened out, I went to it.

At the first meal all of our party were at the first sitting and the places were quickly filled. The food was something terrible. I can't imagine how a ship could be allowed to run and pass out such abominable food as we got upon this ship. It was a nightmare! Some of the commissioners simply would not eat it, and, in fact, did not eat anything except some fruit, which they had luckily brought on ship with them, during the entire trip of three days and nights. The crew is Russian and the cooking is Russian -- if this is what we will run into all through Siberia and Russia, I, for one, hope Russia will obligingly shrink considerably in size before we get there. No liquors of any kind are obtainable as Russia is dry, except a kind of near-beer, made from grain, which was no good. We are wondering if we will run into anything worse than this ship -- it seems the farther on we get the worse it becomes.

During the night the weather was rough, to such an extent that the boat, which is not large, began to rock very badly, and I was told the next morning that screams were heard during the night from the nurses, and, upon investigation, it developed that several of them were unceremoniously given a bath, the sea coming in the port holes. I did not get in on this party because I was on the other side of the ship. This gave us an opportunity to tease the nurses, but matters took such a serious turn we didn't have the heart.

There are no games of any description (except cards) to play on this ship. In fact, there is no room nor inclination on the part of our party. Most of them are already seasick. Out of our party of about forty, from thirty to thirty-five are under the weather and the farther we go the worse they get. They can not stay in their cabins, on account of the odors, so they are scattered all around the deck, lying on their blankets with pans at their heads for emergency use -- and the emergencies seem quite frequent. It is one sick crowd. Fortunately one nurse is not sick and she is one busy little mortal, looking after so many. Finally mattresses, blankets and other bed clothing, is being taken from the cabins by our party and placed on deck, where occasionally at least some respite is had from the odors of the ship by the breeze.

The dining room by this time is practically empty at meal time. There is no longer any question about first sitting and second sitting. Some will come in and sit down, but, before the meal is even brought to them, they will bolt for the door. Even the thought of that food evidently makes them sick all over again. I suppose I escaped

because I have kept busy in my cabin (with the port hole wide open, of course) working on some papers, and the roll of the ship does not bother me to any extent at all. I feel sorry for them, but there is nothing to do for a person when he is seasick except to let him sleep if he can. After finishing my work, I went up to the writing room and wrote a long letter to the folks at home, midst the terrible rocking of the ship. It seemed it reached the worst stage when I got in the writing room. The shutters to the windows, which were hinged, were continually banging, and it sounded as though the ship was going to pieces every minute. Rocking constantly, one minute I would be way up in the air and the next, seemingly on my way to the bottom of the sea. It was some ride, and I guess my letter will show in some way the stress of the moment. How the old ship remained afloat is a mystery.

Everybody was starved when we reached Vladivostok, which was the stopping place of the dear Penza, and we went ashore as quickly as possible. It was a weak looking crowd and nothing could be accomplished until food was had.

Here there was a big job of unloading our baggage and freight from the hold of the vessel, and, in two-wheel horse drawn carts, haul the baggage to our passenger train and the freight to our freight car. We had our men checking it as it came out of the hold, also as it was loaded on the freight car and weighed; and several of us were on the wharf to see that it was loaded by the coolies, and then one of us escorted each wagon to prevent theft.

Before this was done, however, we marched in a body to the railway restaurant for a meal and had a splendid one. We were all very hungry and fortunately for us, at this one place in Vladivostok, the cooking was good. We had two meals at this place and also rode through the town. Our vehicle was the Russian Drowsky, of which you see thousands throughout Russia. I will describe the Russian Drowsky later, after I have seen more of them, as there must be several types. The town is a large one. Some very large buildings, but we had no time to go for a real sight seeing tour, as it was late. We did go for a stroll after dinner and wound up at a public park. In the park was a small theatre. We went in to see the movies and afterwards sat on the veranda and had soft drinks. One goes out between acts, just as one does at home, at the "legitimate theatres". The show seemed pretty good, although, of course, we could not understand what was written on the slides thrown upon the screen. We met here a very young Russian officer, who spoke a little English, and one of our party spoke a little Russian, so we could make known to each other our thoughts. We found this particular young officer

very intelligent and particularly so on the subject of liberty. He realized that this is the real time for the Russian people to fight if they expect to retain the liberty which they now have. He really had the ideas of an American on the subject. This, however, is really rare in Russia. Liberty, with the masses, means, or meant, that they would have all the land they wanted and in fact anything else they wanted without working for it.

Hundreds of tents and warehouses could be seen near the wharves and we were told these contained munitions and supplies, which were being held up on account of lack of proper transportation facilities.

Back to the train, and our long journey from Vladivostok to Jassy starts. I am writing this part of my diary from Jassy from notes taken, but can not give the happenings strictly according to date.

Our first stop of any importance was at Harbin, Manchuria. Here the soldiers and others come from miles around, particularly on Saturday nights, so they can get plenty to drink. The place is packed with Russian soldiers, who, apparently, have nothing to do. We changed some of our cars here and placed a guard at night over the train. Our guard consisted of men from our Medical Corps. We have no privates with us so officers do privates' guard duty, and do it very willingly.

One cannot imagine seeing the hundreds of coolies at the station, lying around the long granolithic walkway on their rags, sprawled out with dirty packages, bundles, boxes, etc., around them, babies in arms, waiting for the trains. A regular bedlam! We saw a train arrive, and, instead of orderly unloading the passengers and then others getting aboard, they, amidst babbling noises of all kinds, made a rush for the train, piling in the windows and doors, for the world like so many cattle. One woman was seen to pitch her baby in the window and then climb up afterwards. Those who wanted to get out had to come out of the windows and doors on the opposite side of the train. It was truly a remarkable sight and one we cannot easily forget. The station and platform was always crowded with these dirty evil-looking coolies and many Russian soldiers.

We were at Harbin a few days. It is a rough place, with no particular sights to see, so far as we could find, except the cabarets. On account of the many shooting affairs and regular roughhouse fighting in town, we had great difficulty in getting permission to go into the town after dark, but finally several of us went to one of these cabaret shows. One enters a dingy looking frame building, check your

hat by hanging it on a hook, and then enter what seems to be an ordinary drinking place, with tables everywhere. However, there was a stage and regular theatre boxes all around the place -- the boxes, however, being larger than those at home. We arrived about 10 or 10:30 P.M., but the show did not commence until midnight. Life, they say, starts in this town at midnight. In the meantime, we sat down at one of the tables and had something to drink and eat. The place was filled with men in uniform and citizens clothes and ladies in their finery and paint. Everything is very expensive. Russian money is in Rubles (dollars) and Kopeks (cents). The decimal system is used everywhere except in Great Britain. Ordinarily a Ruble is work about fifty cents of our money. Today it is worth only twenty cents. All about us were people of every nation, but the great majority were Russians. One Englishman was sitting near us and we have talked to him for a short time. When the show began we were invited by an enthusiastic and not altogether sober Russian to join his party in a box, and he was so insistent we accepted. He ordered several bottles of champagne and was quite overcome with joy at our presence, continually drinking to the health of America. This finally became general over the entire place. There were several ladies in the box as well as gentlemen. Russians have the habit of talking very loudly. We stopped several times, thinking we were going to see a real fight and it developed the parties were not angry with each other at all, but simply discussing the topics of the day. After our friend had vociferously drunk our health many times, two of us went out and paid a visit to the actresses behind the stage. By this time it was generally understood that the Americans could do anything and go anywhere they wished. We took advantage of the occasion to see all there was to be seen. When we returned to the box we found something had happened out the ordinary. It seems that our enthusiastic friend had handed one of the ladies in the box five hundred rubles to hold for him and when he asked her for it about fifteen minutes later, it could not be located. The woman was arrested and searched in one of the rooms, but the money could not be found. Of course, the woman had passed it on to a confederate. She became hysterical and finally the whole affair quieted down and we could not even find out what happened to her.

We were finally joined by some Russian officers, who also drank of the champagne and expressed their love of America by kissing us! Quite an experience, but we went through it manfully. We dodged it as much as possible, but had to go through this one-sided performance several times. These officers also insisted that they go home with us and then stopped the whole party in another cabaret. We took a box there (these Russians would not pay for anything -- they simply took what they wanted and went on their way). We

discovered some National airs were to be played for our benefit, and as our allied friends continued their affectionate regard for us, we beat a hasty retreat to the train, getting there about 3 or 4 in the morning.

We met a Mr. Wilde, an American, who lives in Harbin, in charge of an American Commission house, and bought cigars, cigarettes and other supplies from him. He drove us around in his American-make automobile and we also had lunch with him and his family. His wife is an American, but has lived abroad, in China and other countries, for such a long time that she is really more familiar, as she says, with their ways than with ours. We had a most delightful time.

Finally our train, which is a special in charge of a Mr. W. Ertell, a high Government official from Petrograd, started again on its way. We had good service and the cars were handsomely finished inside; heavy brass fittings in our compartment with leather panel work and carved wood. The baskets to hold the baggage were of pure copper and very expensive. We were told by Mr. Ertell that the car in which Mills and I had a compartment had just taken the Czar (ex-Czar) into exile, and the reason we were held up at Harbin was to have the cars thoroughly renovated, as they had been on a run of some eighteen thousand miles without renovation. Their country is so very large, distance means nothing to these people.

We stopped at many stations and mixed with the crowds. They all seemed of the poorer classes, usually not well clad and some very scantily clad. The Russian pullman of ordinary type is like our freight car from exterior appearance, except that it has small windows and within are arranged lower and upper berths. These cars are very small and it is little wonder that there is considerable disease, as the occupants are most assuredly not clean and the linen is filthy. In fact, the sheets on our special train would not be changed unless we raised Merry Cain with our lazy porter. In this connection I might mention that the pullmans on our special were about the length of American pullmans and really quite as commodious, in fact more so, because the Russian gauge is wider than our American standard gauge. The compartments extended down one side of the train and the aisle on the other. All of the rooms had an adjoining wash-room, or rather, one between two rooms. The service is good except in two cars where we are unfortunate enough to have poor porters. Our train consists of four pullmans, one diner, one baggage car and one freight car.

The nurses have one pullman to themselves and the Commissioners one. The balance of our party is divided up, two to a

single compartment (upper and lower) and four to a double compartment.

Our first breakfast on a Russian train (in our own diner) was a distressing affair to good healthy Americans, who, all of their lives, have been accustomed to eating something for breakfast. We were served with a glass of hot tea, black bread and butter, which we consumed and waited for the next course. We were doomed to disappointment, as there was no second course, this being the regular Russian breakfast. Thereafter, arrangements were made to Americanize the morning meal.

We catch ball at most of the stations, having to have exercise of some kind, and in this play several members of the Commission have joined us. Nothing like advertising home products in a foreign country. The Russians are very much interested in the game, but if you throw one of the them the ball they grab for it just as a kid would who tries the game for the first time. It is quite wonderful to them that we catch the ball without difficulty.

I do not recall, at this writing, that anything of importance happened. We simply traveled day in and day out, stopping here and there, when we would all get out for a stretch or a game. All this time we had plenty of work to do.

This very long journey, probably the longest in the world which can be taken by rail, was naturally tiresome, but we had a good crowd and many pleasant parties in the various compartments after leaving Harbin, and there was much singing, card playing, cleaning belts, shoes, uniforms, etc. Any of us can easily qualify now as bootblacks. In all it was a very happy crowd under the circumstances. Before leaving America, I was warned that if one made such a trip with his best friend, upon your return if you saw your friend (?), you would cross the street to keep from speaking to him. I have not, however, found this to be the case. Probably because our party is so large. If one man gets on your nerves, you can keep away from him for a while.

For a wonder to us all we have ice cream very frequently for dinner. It is not the ice cream you get at home, but it is cold and really not so bad as long as we can get nothing better.

Most of this track is single track, but at two places en route the train was stopped (on single track too) especially to allow us to go in swimming. We all enjoyed this greatly. At the first place, the water was pretty cold and very swift; in fact, so swift that we could not swim against the current. We were like a bunch of school boys. At the

second place, we found the water not so cold and a good place from which we could dive and there was no current. We had our pictures taken here, without our knowledge, with one exception. Here I also left my watch in the sand and missed it after we were many miles away. We had a near accident also. Major Kirkpatrick was taken with cramps while swimming to the opposite shore and could hardly make it. It left him in such condition that instead of later swimming back, one of our men walked down to a bridge with him and came across the bridge to join the party.

At this same stop Colonel Anderson was presented with a wonderful jeweled dagger by the head of the dining car service, who is a man of some wealth; and, in return, the Colonel gave him a handsome wrist watch, worth about three hundred dollars.

Arrived at Moscow, Friday, September 7 th . Colonel Anderson, with four of our party, left for Petrograd about midnight, leaving the balance of the party at Moscow, still aboard the special train, in charge of Vice Chairman Glasgow. Some of the boys went out sight-seeing Friday afternoon and returned jubilant over the wonderful sights. One of our party also went up town and bought wash-boards, boilers, pans and other paraphernalia, for washing clothes - so far we have been unable to have our laundry done, since leaving Japan, and there is no telling whether we will ever get to Roumania or not, and we are preparing for the worst. We may yet come to washing our own clothes!

Saturday, September 8 th - Everybody seems to have a bad cold, not excluding the writer. At any rate, I went out in the city sight-seeing with Lieutenant Davidson, who speaks the Russian language, and who made everything very clear to me. We walked to the Kremlin, which is that portion of Moscow within the walls of the city. On the way we passed an Eye Hospital and saw many patients at the windows who were suffering from blindness and eye trouble caused by shell explosions and gas. Some of them had really horrible countenances. We also passed a magnificent stone residence with spacious grounds, and, upon inquiry, found that it had been the home of a German and in 1915 it had been visited by a Russian mob, due to the owner being a German sympathizer. The walls and some of the inner partitions were still intact. In fact, from a distance and at first glance, one would not think the building had been damaged; but upon closer examination it was seen that the interior was completely wrecked and fired -- in fact the building had been gutted.

We continued our way on toward the Kremlin, about an hour's walk from the Kursky Railway Station, where our train was located.

Moscow is full of wonderful buildings. The style of architecture is very ornate, too much so. We passed one merchant's residence, which was really as handsome as many of those located on the fashionable end of Fifth Avenue, New York, but, of course, we could not tell how the interior was decorated. This particular house contained certainly ten good-sized rooms to a floor, and the building was three stories above ground. There were iron gates, very tall, say ten to twelve feet, at the carriage entrance. There was no front porch, simply a massive entrance door farther down the street. The building was smooth stucco on brick. Most of the handsome buildings here, both residential and governmental, are either stone or smooth stucco on brick -- the majority in the latter.

We stopped at the Big Cannon, which stands in front of a very large building, now used as an Armory. This cannon is the largest in the world of its kind, weighing 39,000 kilos, but it has never been used. A kilo equals about 32 pounds. It is a very strange looking cannon. It does not taper at all and the diameter of the barrel is at least twenty-four inches. It is profusely decorated with portraits. It was cast in 1586.

Very near this Cannon we found the wonderful historic old Big Bell, cast in 1735, which stands at least twenty to twenty-five feet in height and about sixteen to eighteen feet in diameter at the bottom. This old bell was ordered made by Ivan, The Terrible, and weighs over twelve thousand poods, about four hundred and eighty thousand pounds, or about two hundred and forty tons. It evidently is made of many metals melted and cast. It appears to be brass and copper. After the bell was cast, the wooden construction around it caught fire and the metal became heated. To prevent its melting, water was thrown upon it, causing it to burst; and there lies the one broken piece, about six feet square (if it was square) and the thickness at this broken place (at the very base) is a good sixteen inches and possibly eighteen inches.

I bought a small collection of picture post cards from some one at the Bell for R1.75 and hope to be able to hold on to them until my return home, should we be lucky enough to ever get back.

Next we visited the monument of Alexander II, which was erected as late as 1898. The old gentleman stands there in all his glory, coronation robes and crown. Around the statue, in a kind of half circle, is a gallery -- really nothing more than a walkway -- in mosaic. The roof and side walls are lovely; inlaid in silver, gold and ivory, with the portraits in this beautiful and expensive kind of work of many noblemen, from Grand Duke Vladimir to Nicholas I. The statue

of Alexander II is in the center of this half circle. The outlook from here over the city of Moscow is splendid. It is really a city of golden domes and crosses. The Russians are particularly strong for gold leaf work and are very expert in this respect.

We saw no disorder during the entire day. There were many bread lines and also many lines here and there of well-to-do people waiting for the privilege of buying a small bit of meat or possibly some tobacco. We were told only one-half pound of bread per person is allowed daily, and sometimes they have to stand in line for hours to get even so little. We returned to the train, following the river, and saw many picturesque things, hard to express on paper.

Saturday evening I went to bed at about one o'clock (really in the morning). But I am getting ahead of my story. I had made up my mind, on account of a very severe cold, that I would retire at 8:30. About 8:00 P.M., I was assigned to the duty of paying off some of our trainmen, who had come with us from Harbin, Manchuria, and were leaving us to go to Petrograd. While I was trying to locate them, our special train was moved to another station and about seven of us waited until after twelve o'clock at the station before the train finally pulled in. While waiting we had a very interesting talk with a few English soldiers, belonging to the Royal Fliers Aeroplane Corps, who were here to teach the Russians how to fly. There were ten in the party and their conversation was splendid and sounded fine to us until the continual use of the word "bloody" got on one's nerves. There was no "doncherknow" business about these fellows, but lots of "bloody" this and "bloody" that. They say the Russians are a bunch of jelly fish with absolutely no backbone, but the Cossack is a wonderful fighter and they have great respect for him. They spoke of one case in particular where the English had supplied the Russians with field pieces. Later the Russians retreated and, when asked about the guns, said they left them -- making absolutely no effort either to retreat with them or destroy them, although they had ample time to do either. Later, these guns were captured by the British from the Germans on the Western Front. These aeroplane boys also told us of the Russians shooting themselves in the left hand or arm so they could be sent to the rear. They told of instances they actually saw -- where Cossacks would approach Russian soldiers, either in retreat or returning to the rear with wounds in the left hand, and, without ceremony, either shoot them down like dogs or neatly sever their heads with swords. They also told of a wagon load of wounded returning to the rear (they saw this themselves). The wagon overturned and one of the wounded soldiers had his arm run over above the elbow. It was noticed his hand was very carefully bandaged, and in order to bandage the badly lacerated upper arm, the bandage was removed from the hand and

the discovery made that no wound existed at all upon the hand; so the cowardly devil met his just dessert. All Russians, however, are not of this type. The intelligent class (which, unfortunately, is in the very great minority -- about ninety-five percent of Russians being illiterates) deplores the condition of their country, which they fully recognize but can do very little. If only some true patriotism could be put in to the breasts of the Russians! Education is lacking first. They have really a wonderfully fertile country. Our idea in America of Siberia is a cold, desolate, ice-bound waste, where starvation, privation, disease and death abound. To the contrary, that portion of Siberia traversed by our train is magnificent in the fertility of the land; black, rich, earth where seemingly anything can be grown, and many crops are growing and being harvested; great grazing lands with an abundance of cattle roving the fields. If only the people had good American brains and push they could make Russia (with proper railroad facilities) a truly great and powerful first class power. This will necessarily come in time if the country holds together instead of being divided up into a half dozen countries.

Sunday, September 9 th -- I remained in bed, feeling rotten with my cold. There is certainly an epidemic among us -- everybody seems to have a terrible cold.

Monday, September 10 th -- There is talk that there will be rioting in the city today and we are having a little trouble in getting permission to go into the city. It is finally decided we may go. With a guide, Major Kirkpatrick, Captain Rulison, Lieut. Kucera, Lieut. Davidson and I started out to see the Emperor's Palace. We walked very briskly until we reached the Kremlin and we were all pretty warm when we arrived within the walls.

There was absolutely no sign of disorder. Everything was just as quiet as it is on Broad or Main Streets in dear old Richmond. We passed the Red Square, which derives its name from the many bloody scenes enacted here. Also the St. Basil Church, with its many pear-shaped steeples or towers. We passed the Historical Museum many times during our visit, but I did not have the opportunity of going within, I did not take any notes at the time of our visit to the buildings within the Kremlin, but I did buy a book which goes into some detail regarding what we saw. I will only attempt to give my impressions in a general way.

We visited the Apartments of the Emperor and those of the Crown Prince. The paintings at the head of the stairway were remarkable; one in particular, showing Alexander III receiving different delegates, after his Coronation in 1881. The picture contains

certainly not less than twenty-five people and the expressions on the faces of the Czar, his Empress and the Princes, but more particularly the delegates, were truly wonderful, as was also the play of light upon the faces and figures. There were other wonderful paintings here, but sufficient light could not be obtained to show them up to us at their true value.

The floors throughout the Emperor's and Crown Prince's apartments consisted of hand-carved, inlaid wood. It was beautiful, although not so smooth at the joints as our own machine cut hardwood floors at home. The stairway in the Crown Prince's apartment was specially constructed, so the children could not easily fall down it -- the steps were broad and not high. It would be almost impossible to have a common case of falling down the steps. The walls are covered in beautiful tapestries, which are priceless and most carefully kept. The doors are very tall and thick and are covered with gold plate of the highest grade and most artistic pattern; and while very heavy, they are easily swung. No one but crowned heads has ever slept in these rooms. The Emperor's bed was of exquisitely carved mahogany, which was, at the time, covered only with a silk valance. The Guests' Rooms, which also only crowned heads have occupied, are equipped with wonderful beds. In the doors there were many large jewels, but they were certainly too large to be genuine. We passed on into the Throne Room of the Ex-Czar. It is a very long room, about two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet long and about sixty to seventy-five feet wide. There were three throne chairs, one each for the Czar, the Empress, and the Dowager Empress. Over the Throne is the Eye of Egypt, the highest order in the Masonic Lodge, I am told. We were told the wording under this was to the effect that "God is with us". The Eye of Egypt is supposed to be the eye of God. The pillars in this room were wonderful, in their gold gilt, which is the entire color scheme of the Throne Room. It was the most gorgeously decorated room I have ever seen, and the work in gold was indeed wonderful. The flooring was all hand cut, inlaid and highly polished. The only chairs in the room were those on the Throne. There were paintings around the top of the walls, that is, high up on the side walls. From here we passed into a room of blue color scheme, which, after so much gorgeousness, was very pleasing. I will try to tell something of one other room and then generalize. This is the very old Throne Room. It is really ancient and looks it. The pillars here are great, square ones and tapering very slightly. On the floor there is a wonderful carpet, which was woven especially for the coronation of Alexander III, the father of the present Ex-Czar, by three hundred girls in a monastery. It is in all of the various colors used by the Russians in their numerous uniforms and measures about one hundred feet by sixty feet. It was covered in order that it might be

carefully preserved. In this particular room, the throne is in the extreme corner. We were told that this room is used for one occasion only -- the Czar is served his first meal here after his coronation and receives at that time the various crowned heads and representatives of foreign countries. No ladies are allowed in this room during this ceremony, although they can witness it from a balcony, where they are also served eatables and drinkables.

Now to generalize -- There were many handsome black, silver and gold inlaid Egyptian tables, the handiwork of the Russians. They were remarkable pieces of work, exquisite in every little detail.

In one long corridor there are on the walls, with several fine paintings, three hundred and ninety-four plates, upon which was brought bread upon the occasion of the crowning of the Emperor in 1896. These plates were made of gold, silver, wood and some even of salt. Among these plates was one given by the City of Moscow, which, it is claimed, is worth two and a half million Rubles ($1,250,000.). It was regarded as so priceless by the authorities that it was recently removed from the Palace and placed in bank for safe keeping.

The Gate of Borovitz, where Napoleon came in, and where forty thousand soldiers were killed, could be seen from the Palace.

Throughout the entire Palace, there was a great deal of gold gilt work, at which the Russians are very expert. The chandeliers and fixtures were of remarkable beauty. The doors were all heavy, well-balanced and decorated gorgeously. In the room where the Dowager Empress received guests, they (the doors) were inlaid with stones resembling diamonds.

We were told that the last crowned head to occupy the Czar's Guest Room, already mentioned, was the Shah of Persia, with his twelve wives. This was nineteen years ago. There was only one very large bed in this room and it was a magnificent affair. There was a low-mirrored table, where, it is claimed, the Shah's wives dressed -- and undressed -- themselves.

We saw in one end of the Palace some old stone steps, made in Italy; looked like old Egyptian work. Also a wonderful case made of silver and gold gilt where all coronation papers from Alexander to the present Ex-Czar are kept. Also the bed where Napoleon slept for three nights when in Moscow. It gave evidence of decay; the bed clothing was actually rotting away. We went up the winding stairway to the top of the building and stood on the spot on which Napoleon stood when he watched the city burning -- and when, in reality, his Empire or World Kingdom began to decline.

Wednesday, September 12 th -- We left Moscow via our special train at 9:10 P.M. today. I stayed up rather late writing in this diary.

Thursday, September 13 th -- Up this morning at 8:00 o'clock. Breakfast in the diner, which is still with us. Food was very scarce in Moscow and even at such hotels as the National and the Metropole, we were unable to get as good meals as are being served by our diner. A decent meal in Moscow costs about ten to fifteen rubles, which is two or three dollars, and only one slice of bread, and sour bread at that -- although at the best hotels -- [there is] no butter, and sugar [is] passed around very gingerly -- two lumps to a cup and no more, and only one cup of coffee. Russians are great meat eaters. When vegetables are served, one vegetable is a whole course.

A General Order was issued by the Colonel today, advising all concerned that I would, in the absence of Captain Williams, take care of the duties of Secretary and Treasurer. Captain Williams left us the night of September 11th to go to Petrograd, where he would meet members of the Billings Commission and take care of the transportation of our supplies, which are due at Archangel, Russia, and to accompany them to Jassy, where he would meet us, should we be able to get through to that point. He is also entrusted with the duty of obtaining, through the American Embassy, the release of a member of our party, who is a Pole, and who is technically detained at Petrograd by the Russian authorities, who threaten to put a Russian uniform on him. It is thought no difficulty will be experienced in obtaining his release. I do not like to see Captain Williams make this trip alone and I really wanted badly to go with him, but had to stay with the party to take his place. It is not at all unlikely that he will have to ride freight trains to Jassy and lots of excitement is possible.

Mr. Ertell, the representative of the Russian Government, who is in charge of our train, advised that the train would stop about 3:00 P.M. today. This gentleman had been good enough not only to agree to stop the train at a place where we could have a real game of baseball, but he is arranging it at pretty near the right hour for the National Past-time.

We had a great game. The line up on our side was as follows -- the names of each team being Russianized --

Scrubskys (The Commission)Catcher Major PerkinsPitcher Lieut. EarnestS.S. Lieut. Millslst B. Major Bryan2nd B. Major Wells

3rd B. Sergt. DayR.F. Amer. Minister VopickaL.F. Major PeabodyC.F. no one

Bookskys (Medical Corps) -- Our opponents.

and they trimmed us in four innings to the tune of twenty-four to seventeen. It was one bat-fest. We had picked up at various stations along the route large pieces of wood, working very diligently in trimming and scraping them into bats, and these bats were certainly used very effectively, as the score indicates. The ground was pretty rough and the fielders could not show up to good advantage. One or two of the very prominent members of the party had bad falls, in running bases and catching flies, but nobody was really hurt. We also had a pretty fair sized crowd of rooters -- our nurses, some of our doctors as well as the train crew.

I am given credit for losing the game for our side. In the fourth inning a slow grounder was hit to me, and a runner on third started for home. I drew back to catch him at the home plate and back he started for third. I again drew back to catch him at third, but our man was not on the job -- he was waiting for the next ball to be batted out. It was then too late to catch the man on first, and around the players went. After that it seemed they went wild with a batting rally. I was yanked out of the box, Major Bryan and myself changing places. The Major covered himself with glory. No balls were pitched hard as we had no mitt or catcher's mask. Although our Colonel umpired the game, we had several disputes, but the Umpire was never in serious danger, as no pop was being served to the spectators. It was a great game and all of the party were particularly pleased at the opportunity afforded. Captain Hamilton was the Official Scorekeeper. The following is the official batting percentage above five hundred. You had to be a regular ball player to receive the notice of our Official Scorekeeper:

A.B. H. R. PercentageMajor Perkins 4 4 4 1000" Wells 4 4 4 1000Mr. Doyle 5 5 5 1000Lieut. Earnest 4 4 4 1000Major Kirkpatrick 5 4 4 800Mr. Mayer 5 4 4 800Capt. Massenberg 4 3 3 750Capt. Rulison 4 3 2 750Lieut. Kucara 4 3 2 750Major Peabody 3 2 2 667

My friend Mills is not very expert on making Sherry & Egg, but he produced the eggs without difficulty apparently, by sticking around in the dining car after everyone else had left. He can not be called an economist either, because in the process of shaking, he lost several of the eggs as well as glasses by breaking them, due to our makeshift method of shaking. But the final result brought forth much praise from our guests -- but what I am thinking about now is, we have eggs scattered around on the floor of the compartment in a general mix up with glass. The process was so disastrous, we will not try to make a second one. It is now midnight and we are still traveling along. We are due at Kiev tomorrow morning early, where we are to spend the day. I am scheduled to take a much-needed bath in the city somewhere and several of us will then see the sights.

We made some changes and I have a new compartment -- the Sherry and Egg, however, had nothing to do with it, as Mills and I are the greatest of friends, but we both have a good deal of work to do and in order to get rid of it, we are separating, so each can have more room to spread out his papers, etc. I just happened to examine the sheets and found them really filthy, and, late as it was, I looked up our much-abused Russian porter and made him give me two clean sheets and pillowcases. So I expect a very pleasant night.

Friday, September 14 th -- At Kiev this morning.

There have been many bloody scenes enacted here: massacres of Jews. This is also the town where the famous Beilis trial was held. Beilis was a wealthy manufacturer and his enemies paid the mother of a small Christian child -- about five years of age -- to murder her own child and put the blame upon Beilis, on the ground that Beilis, being a Jew, had sacrificed the Christian child at the Jewish altar. The Pope entered into it, to the extent that he endeavored to explain the fact that there is absolutely nothing in the Jewish religion requiring or countenancing the taking of blood of Christians. The President of the United States also wrote a note on the subject.

We are to be here until late in the afternoon and everyone is to go into the city sight-seeing and hope to buy some supplies.

Later -- We went sight-seeing and shopping. We stopped at a very good stationer and I bought for the Commission some scratch pads, pins, a punch, etc. A fountain pen for myself and a book of views of the City of Kiev.

Kiev is one of the oldest cities in the world. No one seems to know how old it really is. Certainly it was here during the life of our

Saviour. We were fortunate in meeting a young Russian (connected with the Russian Red Cross), who speaks French, Russian and a little English. He piloted us around and later ate lunch with us.

Kiev is quite different from Moscow. While there are very large, handsome and ornate buildings in Moscow, they seemed to me somewhat forbidding and dismal, and the people, as a whole, seemed really poorer in Moscow than here. This may be explained by the fact that Kiev is in the center of a very rich agricultural section, which seems to be worked to a greater extent than around Moscow -- taking population into consideration. While the stores and business houses in Moscow were much larger, they were not so clean as those we entered in Kiev.

There are very few frame buildings. Stucco (smooth) is still predominant, although there are quite a number of brick buildings and a very large number of very fine looking apartment houses. Kiev is quite hilly. The streets are broad. In some instances the pavement, which seems to be granolithic, is as much as twenty-five feet wide.

We missed the many golden domes of Moscow, though there are a few at Kiev. On the whole, I believe I am safe in saying that Kiev seemed more like a real commercial center. The present population is said to be about six hundred thousand.

We noticed that people desiring to board street cars had to stand in line, by files -- a sight we had never seen before. In the stores visited by us, it was very noticeable also that men removed their hats, including the soldiers.

While we did see on several occasions in Moscow, a company of soldiers marching though the streets with fixed bayonets, it seems worth mentioning that we saw one company here marching through the streets. There are, both here and in Moscow, thousands of soldiers on the streets, but it is really a rare sight to see them in formation.

We also saw a trolley car pulling a trailer with a Red Cross sign on the latter and wounded soldiers lying within.

Can you imagine in an American city as large as this city, such a sight as the one we saw today -- an old woman, leading on the main street of the city both a calf and a pig, without anyone particularly noticing her.

Tobacco is very scarce. I bought some cigarettes today and they

limited my purchase to a few packages. We are told that soap, flour, nails, hardware, cloth, and many other commodities, are really unobtainable in southwestern Russian and Roumania. We are buying more soap here for distribution among the Roumanians and have already obtained a goodly stock of the other articles mentioned. In fact, at every city at which we stop for any length of time we all start out buying and the Commission invariably adds something to our supplies. We have a freight car and baggage car attached to our train containing food and other supplies purchased by us, in addition to the supplies which we are to receive through Archangel and which were shipped to us from an Atlantic port in the United States.

We passed a very handsome monument of Alexander III, also monument of St. Olga, mother of Yaroslav, who built the first church in Kiev, and who was an Emperor of Russia. Also saw the monument to Bogodon Schmernicksy, who is famed for having united Little Russia with Russia -- if they don't watch their Ps and Qs, they will be looking for another Schmernicksy pretty soon.

We then visited the famous Monastery of Yaroslav. Yaroslav was Emperor of Russia during the tenth century, when Kiev was the capital. The body of this famous ruler is interred inside the Monastery in one of the dark, small rooms on the ground floor, in what seems to be a marble vault, except that it is not exactly a vault. It is in one corner of the room -- it has a ragged edge near the top, which seems to be cemented together. Measurements of this tomb, or whatever you choose to call it, are about seven feet long by three feet high by three feet deep, approximately. There is apparently no attempt at ornamentation -- a most ordinary little dark room, seemingly a very unfit place for one who had been so powerful and who had ruled over so many people -- but there is always a priest on guard.

Just outside of this room there is another Czar buried, by name, Vladimir, whose time was during the twelfth century. He was buried about 1125. Within ten feet of Vladimir's remains there is a coffin-like receptacle on a stand, with a candle burning at the head. We were told this contained the bones of noted priests for a thousand years back. We took the priest's word for it; as we could not see the bones, it really was not so gruesome.

On the inner side of the dome of this church there is a half size figure of the Redeemer worked in wonderful mosaic work, inlaid gold, etc. The Altar of the Church was very elaborate -- carved wood trimmed in gold and silver plate. This did not appeal to me, as it really looked very cheap. But the whole place and everything in it

was very very old. One feature which struck us all as peculiar was that no seats were provided for the congregation and we were told by the Priest that no one ever sat down there. The Monastery is, of course, lighted throughout by candles. The entire floor and stairway was of iron or metal of some description - the floor being heavy plates about two feet square.

Going up the winding stairway to the second floor, we saw quaint paintings upon the stairway's plastered walls of animals, hunting scenes, persons in armor and men blowing bugles. On the second floor there was some very old stone work, which was quite interesting and another altar, which was, of course, very ancient. At the last mentioned altar there was a Priest chanting, with two people kneeling before the altar.

The whole place had that peculiar ancient smell once experienced, never forgotten.

We then visited the Kupechiskych Garden, which overlooks the River Dnieper. Kiev is really noted for its beautiful gardens, but we were here only for a few hours and could visit only this one. It affords a beautiful view of the river and the surrounding country, and the figures worked out in various colors in the garden are lovely. We were told that it is never very cold here. Although Russia is at war, this garden, with its grounds, flowers, etc., are perfectly kept. We were rather hungry and located a small eating place at the Gardens and the party refreshed with coffee, bread and butter. We asked for more bread and felt very lucky and happy when we received five small cheese sandwiches (one for each of us). This was considered a very good lunch, for which we paid a total of R10.50 or $2.10 -- very reasonable.

We then found a bookstore where we were able to purchase some English books and magazines. The latest date obtainable was July 28th (today is September 14th). We later met several of our party on the streets, including three of the nurses, one of whom, Miss Torrance, had been in a hospital here as nurse sometime ago and who was, of course, more or less familiar with the city.

I overlooked mentioning an open air theatre we saw in the Garden. We could see it from the little eating house where we had lunch. The place is ordinarily crowded during a show.

We passed the Court House, where the trial of Beilis was held. A very large, handsome, stone building.

We then took a double horse Drowsky to the train. The Russian Drowsky is a very low setting affair of four wheels, the wheels being very close together -- with one seat for passengers and a higher seat for the driver in front, sometimes drawn by one horse and sometimes by two horses. They also have Drowsky sleighs. At first our driver wanted R10.00, but we finally got him down to R8.00. We have discovered that they always ask for very much more than they expect you to pay. We told our very good and obliging friend of the Russian Red Cross goodbye and returned to the train. Am sitting up rather late trying to catch up with this diary.

Saturday, September 15 th - Still en route. Only about twenty-four hours from Jassy, Romania, after seven weeks of traveling, about three of them on this train.

Got up about 8:00 A.M. Usual breakfast on the diner of coffee (always in glasses), egg omelette, bread and jam. Went to work on treasury matters so everything will be up to date upon our arrival at our destination.

It is raining this morning and is a little cool but not cold. No heat in the cars. At lunch we noticed we were passing through some wonderfully fertile country. Both oxen and horses are being used at the plows. The fields are largely under cultivation and although within about one hundred and fifty miles of the front, there are many cattle grazing and more men working in the fields than we have noticed in other sections. Advice is going around that we will arrive at Jassy tomorrow at about 10:00 A.M.

At dinner this evening Colonel Anderson presented to Mr. W. Ertell, representative of the Russian Government, who has had charge of our special [train] from Harbin, Manchuria, up to this time, a letter signed by every member of our party, extending our thanks and appreciation for the many courtesies extended to us, also a platinum and diamond set of cuff links, which cost the party R1,000 ($200.00). It was a very pleasing sight. Colonel Anderson made a short presentation speech in English and Major Perkins translated it in French for Mr. Ertell, and after Mr. Ertell's reply the entire party simultaneously burst into real American hand clapping.

We will have to pack up tonight, so as to be ready to leave the train in the morning and start in on our real work. Everyone is right on edge to do his duty and help this little country out in every way in his individual power. Packing up is no small job, as our equipment is varied and much of it.

Sunday, September 16 th -- We are all up a little earlier than usual this morning and everybody is in a good humor and happy at the prospect of soon being at Jassy. At this writing we are only half hour's ride away. We crossed into Roumania this morning about 9:45. The river Jiu serves as the boundary line between Russia and Roumania. For the first time we see soldiers working in the fields. We have, just this second, stopped at the first Roumanian station. It is a good-looking two-story, smooth stucco building. The country in the distance is mountainous, but from the train we can see beautiful green fields where cattle and horses are grazing.

Colonel Anderson issued instructions that we are to leave the train according to rank and seniority -- meaning the Commission first, then the Staff, following by the Medical Unit and the Nurses Unit. We were met by high Roumanian Military officials and the Colonel assigned me to the job of assigning lodging space to the party. The Roumanians have secured living quarters for us in at least twenty or twenty-five residences, throughout the city. I assigned the Commission to the best rooms, according to information furnished, then placed the balance of the party to the best advantage possible, putting the Staff as near the Colonel as possible. I have as a roommate Schribman, who is a Roumanian by birth and First Lieutenant in our Medical Unit -- a very agreeable and likable fellow of about twenty-eight years of age.

After making the assignments, an automobile was waiting for us and our Interpreter and I, with a Mr. Smith, an Englishman temporarily attached to the American Legation, but who represents the Standard Oil Company here, and the Romanian officer (Laptew), who was handling our party, went automobiling around the town -- part of the time in rain -- for about an hour. There are some beautiful buildings here but not many and stucco still predominates. I discovered that they use no cement at all in their stucco. It is mud with some kind of preparation simply plastered against the brick wall. It is always smooth finish and makes a very good-looking job.

Upon returning to the train we had lunch, inviting Mr. Smith and the Roumanian officer to join us, which they did. After lunch we had to begin the real work of having baggage and persons moved to their various assignments. Ten automobiles were furnished by the Roumanian authorities, some Pierce Arrows and the others were of very good make) for this purpose. There are a number of automobiles here because Jassy is headquarters for not only the Roumanian Army but also this part of the Russian Army. The automobiles are, however, in very bad shape, needing all kinds of replacements, tires, etc., which are very difficult to obtain, if not almost impossible. We finally got

everybody out with their baggage and then with Connes, as Interpreter, I paid out some R3,000. as tips to the waiters, cooks, porters and four soldiers who had accompanied us from Harbin, Manchuria. This done, we started off for our quarters. I might mention here that across all of Russia, we did not have to pay railroad fares, nor did we have to pay for the dining car service -- this was all a courtesy of the Russian Government.

I am writing from the room now. Any number of times, while we were en route, we were told we would never reach Roumania, but this Commission is composed of men, who, when they start out to do a thing, believe in sticking until that particular thing is accomplished -- and here we are (all that started) in Roumania on the job (with the one exception, of course, of our Secretary & Treasurer who was sent to Archangel). We had expected really to camp out and be eaten up with lice and many other dreadful and unmentionable things, but here I am in a really beautiful room with twin beds, an adjoining tub and shower, and all of the conveniences of home. The room is beautifully equipped and the people are very nice. It is really great to sit down on a real Davenport that sinks with the weight of your body and look around at lovely mahogany furniture, electric lights, a handsome wardrobe, dresser and mirrors everywhere. This is not half bad. If our luck holds out, we will not need our sleeping bags, rubber sheets, Jaeger caps, etc., any more than we would need them at home.

It is now seven o'clock in the evening and they are to send an automobile for us to take us to some place to dinner, where we will again meet the balance of our party.

Later -- About eight o'clock we were called for by automobile and after collecting others of our party from various sections of the city, we were ushered into the Staff Headquarters of the Roumanian Army. Here we had dinner with the high Army officials. A Roumanian Colonel was at the head of the table and a Russian General opposite him. I was to the General's left. On my left was a great broad shouldered Canadian, who is a Civil Engineer, but has been in Russia for his Government in charge of transport business of a strictly military character. We had a good dinner of bouillon, meat, potatoes, apples (served in an attractive and palatable manner with sauce) another dessert of some kind, wine and coffee. A great start for a country starving to death (we very quickly settled down to normal food allowances, however -- this was our reception meal).

We were surprised to find that many of these officers spoke English. The Russian General spoke English to some extent and, of course, the Canadian, and several others. These two were the only

ones with whom I could converse on account of location. In our party we have at least five who can speak French, one can speak Roumanian, and a few speak German, but no conversations are carried on in the last-mentioned tongue. We discovered that we had been expected to lunch the same day, but there was some hitch, as we knew nothing about it. We are to dine here regularly until further instructed. All of the officers were particularly nice to us and seemed really delighted at our presence. This meal-time business, we found, was quite a formality. Upon entering the mess hall, it is customary to bow to each gentleman (each officer, of course, as there were no civilians dining here), first of course to the Colonel, and everybody remains standing at or near his chair until the Colonel takes a seat, then we all may sit down. After once seated, things run along rather smoothly, until the demitasse -- everybody smokes, but no one is supposed to light up until the Colonel has performed. Then, no matter how great a hurry you may be in, it is necessary to sit there and wait until the Colonel arises. The Colonel, however, is the last one to leave the room, everyone leaving according to rank and bowing very low to the Colonel and the others before going out and frequently shaking hands with everybody as you pass by them, in addition to the bow. This is all right if you have to do it only once in a while, but to go through with this same procedure every day twice a day, is bound to cultivate in this bunch of Americans more politeness than they ever dreamed of having before. It is tiresome, but probably very good for us.

After dinner, I was told by our Roumanian officer guide that Colonel Anderson had instructed him to call for me in the morning and we would proceed to the Colonel's house, thence to the Prime Minister’s. I am to do a great many interesting things and likewise meet some very interesting people, due to the fact that I am acting as Secretary to the Commission.

We walked around for a while after dinner and went to a moving picture show. This, I understand, is the only thing to be done in Jassy (pronounced Yassy) at night. It is a town of about eighty to eighty-five thousand population in normal times, but is now crowded to over three hundred thousand -- some say five hundred thousand -- people. In an American city, it would be impossible to stretch the capacity of a city to this extent for any considerable length of time, but Jassy is built on a spread-eagle scale, and in war times, refugees have to be taken care of. It is remarkable that we have been taken care of so nicely, and none of us yet understand exactly how it was accomplished.

The streets, both sidewalks and the middle of the streets, are

usually paved in one way or another. There is a streetcar line, but the cars run only at certain hours of the day. They are operated by women of the peasant class. Cusa Voda is one of the most prominent streets and the King's Palace is located on this thoroughfare. The buildings are, practically without exception, two stories and lack architectural beauty -- apparently no attempt in this direction has been made, except of course in some instances. There are, of course, some handsome buildings, but they are rare. Most of the streets are narrow. The streets are filled at all hours of the day with men in uniform and we are kept busy returning salutes. It is a rare sight to see a man in citizen clothes and, even then, you find he is doing some sort of government work.

To bed about midnight. My bed has a wonderful quilt of yellow and white silk and it is as warm as a very heavy blanket.

Monday, September 17 th - Up this morning about eight o'clock. Breakfast served in our room. It consists of tea and bread -- no butter, as it is a scarce article, and the bread is black. To our surprise, a little sugar was furnished. I am now waiting for the automobile. Upon arrival at the Legation, I found that the American Minister, Mr. Vopicka, has provided a large room for the Secretarial Staff as an office and things are beginning to move along in some shape. Colonel Anderson has arranged to have us properly supplied with automobiles, interpreters, and, through the American Minister, is beginning to get in touch with the Roumanian authorities, with a view to getting real business started. It is finally definitely decided that we will make Jassy our headquarters. We have stored our carload of medical, surgical and food supplies in a warehouse, which the Roumanians term a magazine. This is probably large enough to take care of the additional supplies which will be escorted by our Secretary and Treasurer from Archangel, and which were, as before mentioned, shipped to us from the States.

We find by talking to the people here, many of whom speak French, Russian and German, but only a few English, that last Winter soldiers died by regiments from Typhus, and the hearses and vehicles of every character were busy night and day taking care of burials, and, finally, it was necessary to resort to the more primitive way of burying the dead, by digging long trenches and depositing the bodies, without coffins. It must have been appalling!

They are very bitter against the Russians. They claim, and it seems rightly [so], that the Russians would fight for a while and then simply stop, allowing the Germans to get so far east that they feared even for Jassy. This necessitated the transfer of Roumanian troops to

cover positions supposed to be taken care of by the Russians.

The Russian soldiers who are here now were supposed to bring their rations with them, and now they are here living off of the country, crippled as badly as it is. Only a very small portion of Roumania is in the hands of Roumania, and, most naturally, the part in the hands of the enemy is the desirable part -- where all of their oil wells are and where the wheat is grown and where they stored their supplies of all kinds.

Tuesday, September 18 th - Breakfast served in our room this morning by the stout and barefoot maid of all work, consisted of very good butter, war bread and hot tea.

The Roumanians -- while having some large and handsome buildings in Jassy, commercial as well as residential -- make apparently no effort in most cases for exterior beauty, but the interiors of the homes are very lovely. For instance, two of our men have a room together in a house very near me. The entrance is an alley, or drive-way, of rough stones, where there seems always to be water and mud, or both. This alley way is really an entrance to probably five or six houses scattered in the rear and to the right and left, and all built closely together. One naturally does not expect much of the interior. After climbing an enclosed and not prepossessing stairway, you find yourself on a kind of long veranda (this is of course all in the rear). You enter the rooms from this veranda and it is surprising to find them very handsomely appointed and well arranged. The front room, which is used as a bed room by our two men, is as large as an ordinary ball room, with pattern hardwood floor, tapestries on the walls, full length mirrors, twin beds, desk, etc. None of these houses have a front porch. Many have balconies at the second floor front.

At our home this evening one of the young ladies gave a card party to about twelve people, including Roumanian officers, all of whom were connected with the Red Cross. Two tables were kept going with poker, playing a minimum limit of one lei (a little less than ten cents). I did not play poker because I was really afraid the limit would be the sky, as these people are great gamblers. I played first a game of checkers with one of Mrs. Shouberg's daughters (Mrs. Shouberg is our hostess), but she did not know the game. In fact, it does not seem to be known in Roumania. Then we had one long game of Chess, in which I finally came out the victor, not due to my skill, but to the fact that I was not only assisted by my opponent, but also by her sister.

There were several Roumanian girls present, one in particular a beauty -- oval face, black hair, large brown eyes and wonderful play of expression. All of the girls here use rouge and some of the young officers also use it. I found, to my surprise, four of the party, two men and two of the ladies, understood a little English, but it was necessary to speak very slowly. This card party was held in the room assigned to us and the adjoining room, the doors being thrown open. I enjoyed it very much, but, of course, could not enter into it to any great extent. Most of us have become accustomed to hearing unknown languages spoken around us and know absolutely nothing about what the people are either saying or thinking. To hear English, spoken without [being] badly mixed up French or Roumanian, we have to seek out one of our comrades. We have become hardened to this and can now really enjoy ourselves in foreign company by watching and studying their faces and very peculiar motions and shrugs. This party, however, lasted a little too long for me. They left about three o’clock in the morning. Nothing had been served on account of the shortage of food supplies and there was nothing to drink.

My room is in the Bank of Muldavia -- The second floor of the bank building consists of two apartments, one on each side of the building. My room is in the front of the building, facing the street. Our hostess’ husband is an Austrian and the Roumanian authorities have him in a detention camp. The city is so overcrowded that every room not in actual and essential use is commandeered by the Government to take care of refugees, as well as military officers Roumanian, English, French, Russian, and American.

Clean laundry looked good this morning, as there had been no opportunity of getting any washing done while we were en route across Russia, and our supply was naturally completely exhausted. We also found it very difficult to have it done here. A permit has to be secured by the Government to purchase wood for a fire and soap is almost unobtainable. We were lucky in finding that the maid at our house had some wood and soap, but we are to replace it.

Money is no good here at all, as there is absolutely nothing in the stores. There are thousands in Roumania who have absolutely no underclothing, no socks, or shoes, and they can not be purchased here. Russia is the nearest place; so we expect some of us will be selected to go to Odessa, Kiev, Moscow or Petrograd to buy large supplies of one kind or another.

Wednesday, September 19 th -- Up this morning about eight o’clock. Had tea and bread, no butter. Nothing of special importance today. I was nearly starved at lunch, and the wine, which we have at every

meal instead of water, had some little effect on account of an empty stomach. Not that I felt uncomfortable, but I knew I had drunk wine. The lunch was very good, or rather seems so to me because of my hunger. We had cabbage (different in taste from our cabbage and not so white), a kind of Brunswick stew with meat and a few vegetables, a pastry and coffee. Much talk with the Generals and Colonels and back to the Legation.

I believe I overlooked saying that upon our arrival in Jassy, September 16th, and while we were out looking at the city, our freight car, with all of our medical, surgical and food supplies was detached from our train. Upon our return its loss was discovered and we were all greatly chagrined and worried, because we had brought these supplies fifteen thousand miles, only to lose them upon our arrival at our destination. Mr Ertell immediately got very busy and found that the Russians had taken it down the road, claiming it as their own, through error, and we finally got it back the same night. Everybody rested a whole lot easier, but that night -- and since -- we have had a guard placed over the supplies, which are now in the magazine.

Mr. Laptew, the Roumanian officer, who has been looking after us, visited my room tonight and talked very interestingly for an hour or so. Mr. Laptew speaks English fluently.

He advised me that the population of Roumania before the war was about eight million and the Army about six hundred thousand. The present Army is only about three hundred thousand under arms. He estimated deaths of Roumanians, both military and civil, during the war, at about three hundred thousand, or nearly four per cent. of the entire population. This is equivalent to a country having a population of one hundred millions losing four millions.

Only Roumanians can own real estate in Roumania. A stranger, or foreigner, may own a house or building, but not ground. Another interesting thing is that should a Roumanian lady marry a foreigner, she would have to sell her lands and her children would not be Roumanians; but, at the proper age, they could become naturalized. However, should a Roumanian gentleman marry a foreign lady, the children would be Roumanians and the land would, of course, continue along in the family. Mr. Laptew is by profession an Agricultural Engineer, and is familiar with American machines for agricultural work. He says they have not been in use in Roumania to any great extent because of cheap labor, but after the war America should be able to sell large quantities of this machinery because labor will be scarce. Roumania, prior to the war, was only about one half the size it has been. Russia has a good slice and Austria the balance;

and it was with the hope and probably the promise of the return of all or a large portion of this long lost territory, that she entered the war. At the present writing, instead of gaining territory, she has lost about three to four-fifths of what she had when she entered the war.

He also stated that a law has just been passed here giving the land to the peasants. No one person will be allowed to own more than one thousand acres, while there are now many who own many times that acreage. He says the peasants are not able to pay for it, and in his opinion are too lazy to work what they already have. He understands the financial scheme to be that the Government will issue bonds and pay for the land with these bonds -- bearing possibly three or three and a half per cent. and turn the land over to the peasants. It sounds more like Russia than Roumania.

There are a great many Jews in Roumania but they have absolutely no rights. This is the law, and after the war it is very likely that the Jew will be given some consideration in the readjustment of affairs.

This afternoon about six o’clock, several of us were invited to have tea with Minister Vopicka. We not only had tea and toast, but also jam, and it was really a treat as it seems we are always hungry now presumably because of the lack of a proper breakfast. I eat very little breakfast at home, but there is a great deal of difference between hot tea and black bread fort breakfast and hot coffee, eggs and bread and butter. If you don’t believe it, try it for a week. In answer to his inquiries we told the Minister what we had for breakfast and he told us to come to the Legation for breakfast, but of course we will not do this. It seems that we make a whole lot of fuss over this breakfast matter. It isn’t that we are starving, but the fact that it is so strange and that it breaks into a life-long habit, besides there is not a great deal of nourishment in what we are served at the Staff Headquarters. The Minister is best described as a jolly fellow well-met, a rough diamond, and a worker. He is doing wonders in the way of co-operating with the Commission in its work here and goes after things in a thoroughly American fashion and produces results.

After Mr. Laptew left me, about 10:30 P.M., Schribman came in and Mrs. Shouberg invited us into her room and we were favored with some cantaloupe. It is a very large cantaloupe, nearly as large as a watermelon and very good.

It is now 11:30 and I must retire.

Thursday, September 20 th -- Nothing of particular importance today. Two groups of our Commissioners will make trips this week to points near the front investigating matters regarding the location of a hospital. The Colonel is extremely busy with the various heads of the government, as well as the King and Queen. He and the Queen are very frequently seen, unaccompanied except by the Chauffeur automobiling to the various sections, personally investigating conditions.

We have been advised that our entire party will be granted an audience by the Queen tomorrow morning and several of the boys are very much excited over it.

A meeting will be held today in the Colonel’s rooms of the Commissioners, which I will have to attend. As it will be at 9:00 P.M., I will be tied up for the rest of the evening.

I bought some Roumanian money today, eleven lei for a dollar, or one lei about nine cents. Their money compares with ours as follows:

Bani -- CentsLei -- Dollars

Ordinarily a lei is worth twenty cents, the same as a Franc.

No one in our entire party has yet received any mail. The Minister, Mr. Vopicka, has received postal card advices from Petrograd of mail shipments and he is wiring Petrograd to send on the sacks by courier, and we hope to receive some news from home shortly. While we are seeing new and strange things and are kept pretty busy, as the days pass by without mail, we all are becoming a little unhappy.

A mass of information has been requested from the Government here in the form of a Questionnaire, to enable the Commission to carry on its work intelligently. It looks as though the Commission will return to the States within about six weeks or two months, arriving home possibly by Christmas, provided they go via the Atlantic through Norway and Sweden.

Friday, September 21 st -- We all met at the Legation today at 10:30 A.M., as this is the day of the presentation to the Queen. There was naturally an undercurrent of excitement. Everybody was as neat as they could be, with uniforms pressed, hair clipped, or trimmed, shoes and belts polished, etc., ready for the great event.

Eventually, off we went marching in a body to the Queen’s Palace -- which is a temporary palace, as the real palace is at Bucharest, which place is now in the hands of the enemy. The Minister and the Colonel lead, the Minister on the right and the Colonel on the left, then the Commissioners, Staff, Doctors and Nurses, all by twos. We passed on through the gates, being saluted at every turn. In this connection I might mention that the Roumanians are very serious in the matter of salutes, and Jassy, now being a military post for the Russians as well as the Roumanians, one is kept busy saluting whenever one is on the streets. The Russian soldiers, since their new state of freedom, salute no one, not even their own officers. This seems a very bad start indeed for liberty.

We were met at the entrance to the palace by an officer, who greeted us. We left our hats, gloves, and canes just within the entrance and still by twos ascended the stairs. Being a temporary palace, the capital having been at Bucharest, the place is not worth describing at any great length. While it is a very large and handsome building, it was not built for a palace. At the top of the stairs, on the second floor, we turned to the right, then at our left was a double door which proved to be the entrance to the room in which we were received. At this door, we were met by a lady in ordinary dress, who conducted us into the reception room, which we found to be a very large room, probably sixty feet by twenty-five feet. We arranged ourselves in a semi-circle and surveyed the room while waiting. It was very interesting, because of the uncommon articles to be seen therein. There were boxes against the walls and bundles of cloth; two sewing machines, and in truth it looked like the room might be topsy turvy any time with the Ladies of the Court sewing for the soldiers and the poor, or making bandages.

After a very few minutes the Queen’s Lady in Waiting came into the room from the Queen’s office and greeted the Minister and Colonel Anderson. Very shortly thereafter the Queen entered. She was dressed in the plain white regulation Red Cross Nurse uniform, is forty-three years of age, very well preserved and handsome -- not beautiful, but of splendid figure and regal looking. She is the grand daughter of Queen Victoria of England and, of course, spoke beautiful English. She greeted the Minister who kissed her hand. The Queen expressed to the Colonel her gratitude and pleasure in seeing so many Americans who had come such a great distance to help her people. She spoke highly of the Roumanian soldier, and, to our surprise, mentioned the Russian situation. It seems that while the Roumanians held their portion of the line, they had to continually transfer troops to positions which were supposed to be held by the Russians, who would weaken and retreat. To a very large extent, the people here seem to

feel that had Russia accomplished her share, Roumanian territory would not now be occupied by the enemy.

The Colonel then presented each of the Commissioners, then the Staff, the Medical Unit and the Nurses Unit. With each of us the Queen shook hands. After this Her Majesty spoke to the nurses for a minute or so and then to all of us. Lastly to the Colonel and the Minister, then bade us Goodbye and left us, after which we made our exit.

Her Majesty was very much interested in the object of our mission, of course, but particularly so on account of having, herself, been quite active in Red Cross work. She is truly beloved by her people and she loves and works for them incessantly. During the epidemic of Typhus, among her soldiers, the Queen was right among them, trying to cheer them, visiting all of the hospitals, and she insisted that those with Typhus and other dreadful diseases be allowed to kiss her hand, as it was their desire. She explained that she could not even think of refusing, that if they derived any pleasure or solace or comfort from doing so, that she was there for that purpose. Was she not their queen?

In the afternoon all of the men in our party (except Schribman, who is a Roumanian and cannot be presented to the King by the American Minister as an American) were presented to the King, who shook hands very cordially with us all, just as though he really meant it. The King spoke in English, with a German accent. As a matter of fact, he is a Hohenzollern. It seems that in the past Turkey had control of Roumania, and gave the crown to the highest bidders among the eligible princes; so Roumania might have a French, English or any other kind of Prince. This particular King is fighting against some of his own people, but he is now a Roumanian King, and that is the one thing to be first considered. He gave us a very cordial and informal talk, and, bidding us Goodbye, took the American Minister into his office with him.

The King’s palace is much handsomer than the Queen’s, as it was built as a palace for the ruling Prince. There is a real marble stairway. The room in which we were received is identically the same in arrangement as the Queen’s, except here everything was in good order and the fixtures and wall coverings and other articles seemed more expensive.

It is not midnight, September 26 th , and tomorrow I am to pay off everybody, which creates additional work.

I awoke one morning and saw many soldiers passing my home and later discovered that this was a lot of soldiers (Transylvanians) who had been fighting for Austria against the Allies, against their wills, and who had been captured by the Russians. They explained to the Russians that they wanted to fight under their own flag of Roumania, so they were equipped with new Roumanian uniforms, complete, and it was in these uniforms with blanket roll and everything except guns, that they marched by this house. The column was headed, as they always are in Roumania, with one line of three buglers, then another line of three buglers. When the first three have played a while the second three take up the tune without the lapse of a note, and continue in this way, so they have music without cessation.

Today the streets in the business section were roped off in an effort to enmesh spies and slackers in the net. It caused some excitement among some of our men, who could not understand why no one except officers were allowed to pass without examination. We were, of course, not molested. We are always treated with the greatest deference by all.

Many investigations have been made, and Majors Kirkpatrick, Bryan, Peabody, Wells, Perkins and Glasgow and Flexner have been out of town on trips for additional information.

We heard from our Secretary and Treasurer and expect him from Archangel now in about a week or two.

I am extremely lucky in getting tea and toast at the Legation about 6:00 P.M. every day. Today I took lunch there. Had egg omelette, Toast and Tea. I am becoming a regular boarder. I like the old Minister very much, as all of us do, as well as his Secretary, an Honest to God Irishman, who is quite agreeable and interesting.

This evening about six or eight of us were invited to present ourselves at the home of one of our members of the Medical Corps to help celebrate his thirty-fourth birthday, as well as the two months anniversary of his wedding. He was married just before we left America. We were all wondering what was going to happen when our host began unrolling his rather voluminous blanket roll. He had everything under the sun in that blanket roll. We had been calling him the walking store room heretofore -- if you wanted anything he was sure to have it. After leaving my watch at our last Russian watering hole I was able to get another from him. We don’t know yet whether to give him credit for all of this thoughtfulness or his two months’ bride. At any rate, he lived up to his reputation and produced candy,

cigars, cigarettes, and drinkables, and we had a very agreeable, quiet little gathering, talking over things at home, what we had seen and what would probably happen in this neck of the world.

To bed rather late.

The Colonel told me this afternoon he would probably stay here during the winter months and asked if I would stay. I told him I would if it was necessary, that I left the matter in his hands. The two assistant secretaries will also be asked to remain. The balance of the Commission, except for the doctors and nurses, will, more than likely, leave here for home within two or certainly three weeks.

September 27 th - Up this morning about eight o’clock. Schribman did not show up. He visited a camp of Roumanian soldiers in the vicinity of Jassy, and when he started for home he was not allowed to leave and had to spend the night. He showed up this morning about 11:00 A.M. at the Legation. Today is pay day and I was kept pretty busy up to noon. I have secured Tom Doyle’s room, at the Legation, for my own work, as the other room given us is too noisy and there are too many people coming in and going out throughout the day.

The Colonel will probably remain here during the entire winter, the balance of the Commission returning to America at an early date. He is staying in the hope that an arrangement can be made to feed the Roumanians by purchases from Russia, along the general scheme followed in the Belgium Relief work.

Had lunch today at Staff Headquarters -- more cabbage. Back to the Legation and entered upon the ledger and cash book the payments to the Staff and Nurses Unit. Our funds are all in Letters of Credit (English Pounds Sterling). We purchase with the Pounds money of the Country in which we are traveling or in which we are making purchases. The accounts are kept in dollars, so you can easily imagine the complications.

At about 5:30 Mills and I left the Legation and took a walk of about a mile to visit Captain Hamilton and Lieutenant Hird, and had a long chat with them also had candy -- a great treat. Captain Hamilton has brought a very large box from Moscow filled with good chocolates. This was my first afternoon off since arriving in Jassy and I enjoyed it immensely. We left Hird’s about 7:30 and walked to Staff Headquarters for dinner, after which I came home.

Mr. Laptew called this evening and we had a most interesting time. He described very completely the retreat from Bucharest.

Bucharest is about two hundred and forty to two hundred and sixty miles from Jassy, ordinarily by train about ten or twelve hours.

It seems that the Roumanians, in the archives of their War Department, had no scheme or plan worked out for a retreat and they were completely disorganized in their evacuation of Bucharest, from which point they came to Jassy. No arrangements in advance for travel or food. Some went by train, most by foot, some by horse, all with such baggage and bundles as they could carry with them. It was November and severely cold and the people suffered terribly, there being many deaths en route. Those who went by horse had to lead the poor, hard-pushed animals in numerous places through about eight or ten inches of mud, at the bottom of which there were large and ragged rocks. For eight days the saddles were not removed. Several thousand Boy Scouts were started on their way without any arrangement for food. Many of them died on the way. Women with small children could be seen along the road in terrible shape from cold, hunger and exposure. The number of dead horses along the route was fearful. The animals had been pushed until they simply dropped and died of exhaustion.

He spoke of one case on the train, where a woman with a baby, was in a compartment with others. The baby died as many others did. The poor woman kept the corpse and wept and moaned over it for days until finally the other occupants of the compartment had to ask her to throw the corpse out. She refused and later when she was asleep they threw the baby out of the train window. When she discovered her loss, she became quite insane.

Laptew said conditions were simply awful along the entire route and it took eight days to make this distance which ordinarily took ten to twelve hours. Think of the suffering and deaths in eight days among possibly two hundred thousand people or more.

Must go to bed. It is 12:40 and I am sleepy.

Friday, September 28 th -- As soundly as I usually sleep, I was awakened by the Russian soldiers who were raising merry Cain during the night. They had one grand carousal, singing and shouting at the top of their voices. It is very difficult for the Roumanian authorities to handle this kind of situation -- the Russians have more troops in Roumania than the Roumanians themselves, and the Russian soldier, nowadays, does pretty much to suit himself and the officers dare not cross them to any great extent.

For a change we went to Staff Headquarters for breakfast this

morning, where I had two cups of coffee with milk -- nothing else. For lunch today we had soft corn bread with cheese and milk, which was very good. This is the National dish of the Roumanian peasant -- called Marmalega. Instead of eating regular wheat bread, the peasants all eat this soft corn bread, but without the cheese and milk.

I am going to the aviation field tomorrow and may get an opportunity to fly. None of our party have been up yet, but I am going to do my best to turn the trick.

The member of our party, who was held in Petrograd, on account of being a Pole, showed up today. He is a Polish Count and, therefore, they claimed he was subject to Russian military service. After many days of conversation and delay he secured a permit of two weeks’ time to get to Roumania. To do the simplest thing in Russia it is always necessary to do a great deal of talking and then there is invariably a long delay. He stopped en route at Kiev and fortunately had been able to send word to his Father and Mother, who met him there and spent two days with him. He described conditions in Poland as frightful. He is very much of a pessimist as to the Russian situation. He feels that there Russians will refuse to fight this winter, that in fact, they have said when the winter season starts in they will take their guns and ammunition and return to their homes, and that there will then be murder everywhere and general chaos. He also told us that more than thirty Russian officers, some of whom were Generals, had been dragged through the roads near Petrograd and in this way put to death, and while this was generally known, no arrests had been made or any particular attention paid to it. He said his old home was a sorry sight, as described by his parents -- that everything in general was ruined, the land, the trees, the cattle driven off, etc.

If Russia should make a separate peace or lay down on the job, it will be good-bye Roumania, as well as American Red Cross in Roumania. There is nowhere to retreat, except Russia, and if she makes a separate peace we could not, of course, retreat in that direction and still be of service as a Red Cross Unit. It looks blue, very blue -- but I still believe there are some men of force left in Russia who will prevent this catastrophe, which, in time, would be Russia’s ruination.

None of our supplies have yet arrived at Archangel. They were supposed to have been shipped September 10th, then we received word that they left on the 29th, but even at that they should be at Archangel now, as that would give them a full month in which to cross the Atlantic and get into Archangel. If our supplies of food and medicines cannot be gotten to us there is very little good, if any, that

we can do for the Roumanians. The food supply is only sufficient to last to December 15th and then -- nothing. This is the information I secured today from prominent Roumanians -- that they can not see beyond December 15th on the food question. While we are getting sufficient food ourselves, such as it is, this is due to the fact that we are eating at Military Headquarters. In the private homes, there is already considerable suffering due to insufficient nourishment. In fact, starvation [is] in many homes.

There are also about thirty cases of Typhus here and the winter has not yet started. It is still warm, about September weather at home -- up to this time there seems no difference in the climate of Roumania and that of the United States around Washington, D.C. It is in the winter that the Typhus spreads as the people huddle together to keep warm.

Tomorrow night Miss Palmer, the Chief Clerk at the American Legation, has invited the nurses and the officers of our Commission, to her home for a dance and to meet some French officers as well as some ladies. We will take advantage of the opportunity, the first of its kind to be presented since leaving the Empress of Russia.

Majors Bryan, Peabody and Kirkpatrick are not back yet. Majors Wells and Perkins will probably not return from the front for four or five days. Majors Glasgow and Flexner, as well as Minister Vopicka, Major Yates and Tom Doyle go to the front tomorrow night.

It is now quite generally thought that Captain Williams will be here in about two weeks and then provably empty-handed. This is particularly thought of our Polish Count. He is a dyed-in-the-wool pessimist, but a splendid fellow and as neat as a pin all the time.

I am sitting in my room on a very comfortable Davenport and can hear the heavy boots of the passing Russian soldiers on the street.

Major Glasgow stated today that the Commissioners expected to return to America via Norway and the Atlantic about October 20th. Tom Doyle is trying to arrange the matter. He will also return with them. All of the Secretarial force are undecided about remaining. They are tired of the uninteresting, voluminous detail work they have been doing and want to stay provided that they are assigned to work of an interesting and helpful character, but if it is to be clerical work, they don’t want to stay. So we are, in a way, up against it, but it is a matter which will adjust itself.

Saturday, September 29 th -- Nothing of particular importance today.

I was supposed to be given the opportunity of flying, but when the time arrived we did not go to the aviation field because we were advised that they were not flying today.

Sunday, September 30 th - Stayed home with Hird, who came in about 9:30 and made me get out of bed. He helped me to check over the Cash Book. At lunch today, we had good steak and potatoes and surely did justice to them. I was introduced to the French Major in charge of aviation and he promised I should fly Monday (tomorrow) or Tuesday.

After dinner this evening Rulison gave a little birthday party. There were about eight of us, all members of our party. We had tea and Cognac and later Apple Jack, cake, candy and cigarettes. We broke up just before midnight and I am now in my room writing up the events of Saturday and Sunday.

One of the disagreeable sights in Jassy is the small half-circle urinals, located about the city in the middle of the streets. You can easily tell when they are occupied as the sides are open up to three feet above the ground. Of course, this is not only very unsanitary but the odor is anything but pleasant.

A letter was received today by Rulison from one of the ladies on board the Empress of Russia. She describes the Empress as a very dismal place since the khaki clad boys left at Yokohama. She says that the girls mope around the decks and look Tokyo-ward, thinking possibly by concentrated effort, mental telepathy might be invoked to get into communication with us again. The letter is postmarked P.I. It had continued on with the ship from Hong Kong to the P.I. (Manilla) and then followed us along on the back trail to Petrograd and from thence to Jassy by Government mail pouch.

We still continue to trot around Jassy, in its queer, twisted streets, meeting all kinds of people, and hearing all kinds of tongues spoken. We find the officers just as careful to salute us now as they were upon our arrival, in fact more so, if anything. Of course, this is also true of the private soldiers.

We were at Miss Palmer’s house last night. Had a little trouble locating it although we had directions to follow. Finally after passing the house two or three times, I asked a Russian soldier to locate it for us. Fortunately numbers are the same the world over. We finally made known our desire, although neither of us spoke a word of Russian or Roumanian and he had a soldier take us direct to the door. We entered an open gate in a large gateway, leading to a driveway

(cobble stones and earth) about twenty-five feet wide and back about sixty feet saw a front door. We entered and found her apartment on the second floor. There, in two rooms, we found about forty or fifty guests: French officers, our nurses and many of our own Red Cross officers. Tea, pastries, and small meat sandwiches (canned meat) were passed around. One of the nurses, Miss Torrance, played the piano and we all had several dances. The party was very informal and gay. I danced twice with one of the nurses and twice with Miss Palmer. I did not try any of the French ladies, but will next Saturday evening, if I am still in Jassy, as I was invited to drop in on Wednesday afternoons for cards, which I declined, and Saturday evenings for the informal parties. Miss Palmer is going today (Sunday) to the Russian border on a marketing expedition, as practically nothing can be purchased in Jassy. In fact, I have been unable to buy a thing here except some postal cards.

I ran across a copy of the issue of the Richmond Chamber of Commerce at the Legation. Upon the front page was a picture of V.M.I. cadets at the reception of Balfour at the Elba Station. I was at the station myself to see this distinguished English Son. It looked good to me.

Many of the fellows have received letters from home, but so far I am unlucky. However, all of the mail received so far came in ordinary mail -- none as yet through the Red Cross at Washington. My time will surely come this week, at any rate I hope so. I have written home once from the Steamship Penza, many postal cards from Japan and a letter after arrival here.

It is after one o’clock so I must go to bed at once. The lights might go out any minute. The water is turned off every day here at certain hours in the middle of the day until right late in the afternoon, and in most of the homes the lights go out at 11 and 12 o’clock, but here I am luckier (unlucky?).

Monday, October 1 st -- Today, the Secretary of the Legation called me into his office and said he was receiving many invitations to tea and knew that he was receiving them not for himself but in the hope that the ladies would meet some of us. He says we Americans are now quite the rage in Jassy among the society ladies, all of which is news to me. He says it is a very jolly crowd, and I was told to select one other of our party, so we will make our bow to Roumanian society Thursday afternoon for tea, about six o’clock.

It is rather chilly today and I am fearful that I will not get the opportunity to fly, but lunch will tell the tale. Later, it was arranged

that I should go up about five o’clock. Lieutenant Lascar (Roumanian) arranged it with the French Major in charge of Aviation by telephone. He then secured one of the Army autos and we drove about five miles to the camp. It was rather windy. I donned the fur lined aviator suit and cap. It buttons very closely about the wrists and ankles. The engine started its throbbing and we were off, bumping along the ground. This did not last long. I felt the machine rise slightly and as soon as we cleared the ground, the pilot suddenly pointed the plane to the sky. I felt myself suddenly -- very suddenly -- lifted skyward. I was sitting immediately in front of the pilot, facing the wind, strapped in and holding on to the circular frame work upon which the gun moves around. Strange to say, I did not feel the slightest dizziness, although I looked down at the passing fields and streams which grew rapidly smaller and smaller. I was probably too interested to feel any bad effects. We were clipping it off very rapidly and everything was running lovely. In the meantime I was drinking in the wonders of a real sky view of the surrounding country. It was quite remarkable and I was very busy trying to take it all in. Finally, we reached the city and flew, at a great height, over the entire city. I could only see that there were many buildings, seemingly all together. Only the widest streets could be seen at all and they were like drawn on a map. The river was just like a silver colored ribbon twisting here and there. The wind was blowing to beat the band. The real sensation came when the pilot banked the machine for our first turn. Up to this point my flight was thrilling to me, but not at all scary, but when this banking process started, instead of my feet pointing to terra firma my shoulders were pointing in that direction. It was unexpected and I had a most uncomfortable feeling that we were going to spill. We made about half a dozen of these turns, each seemingly a little deeper than the other and, after the first turn, I enjoyed the sensation of dipping around with my feet everywhere but where they should be, so far as direction was concerned. The machine was a Farman Biplane and the pilot seemed to have perfect control. After hovering over the city for a while and dipping around it, we made a bee line for the Aviation field. Again we were off at a good clip, the wind and motor together making a terrific noise. When we reached the vicinity of the field, we again started in long curves to descend and then made a slow, pretty dive for the field and landed in great shape.

Lieutenant Lascar had particularly cautioned me to be very careful and he was awaiting me and was apparently glad to see me safely back. I thanked them all through Lascar, who speaks English perfectly, doffed the Aviator outfit and Lascar and I motored back to town.

It is really a great thing and I am tremendously interested. So

much so, that I am very anxious to enter that branch of the service. At dinner this evening I had Lascar ask the Aviation French Major if it could be arranged that I take lessons in flying, but was told that the School for Flying had been moved to Odessa, so my hopes were blasted. Something may develop a little later, however. I hope so. At any rate, I know that I would like to be an Aviator. It seems to me a man has a better opportunity to serve his country in this branch of service than any other.

After dinner Mills took me down to see a lady friend of his. I found her to be a Bucharest refugee. She was with her mother, another old lady and a middle aged man. None could speak English but the girl. She was attractive and pretty. We did not get there until 9:30 and left at 10:45. They served us tea and home-made cookies, which were very good. The old lady smoked a cigarette with us. I find that most of the girls smoke cigarettes here. The young lady speaks English in a very attractive foreign manner and as long as you speak reasonably slow she can understand you, but if you speak rapidly she misses it entirely. This always gave us the opening, when we wanted to go home, to say very quickly to the other -- “Let’s beat it” or something of that character.

Roumanian young ladies do not go out walking or to the theatre or out doors anywhere, with a man other than a relative -- it seems the ladies the world over like to gossip, and this custom is to prevent it.

Am now in my room and think I had better turn in as it is 11:45 P.M.

Friday, October 5 th -- Have been unable to write up any diary matters for the past few days.

All of the Commissioners have been out of town. Major Kirkpatrick with Majors Bryan and Peabody were off visiting various possibilities for a hospital location and finally it has been decided to take over the Hospital at Roman, Roumania, which has been operated by the British Red Cross since July 1917, under an agreement with the Public Health Department of the Roumanian Government. We have entered into an agreement with the British Red Cross to the effect that the American Red Cross will take over (without cost) the entire hospital including equipment, material and supplies, also two automobiles and operate the hospital with our own Medical and Nurses Unit, it being understood that the British can call on us for their equipment and supplies in the event they establish a base hospital -- this is real co-operation between Allies, and will enable us to start our hospital much earlier than could ordinarily be expected,

as our own supplies have not arrived from Archangel and we don’t know when, if ever, they will arrive.

I have just returned from the station (10:15 P.M.) after seeing off the Doctors and Nurses, bound for Roman. They have two cars attached to the regular train. It is a ride by train of about three or four hours towards the front. The cars are funny little things, about the size of our smallest street cars, each car having only three compartments, but the seats have a soft covering to them, so they will not be uncomfortable. The Roumanian gauge is less than that of the Russian railroads. The balance of the train was simply crowded and crammed with people, the greatest percentage being Russian soldiers, who ride towards the front tonight, return tomorrow and the next day go through the same performance, never paying a fare. Even upon the tops of the cops there were crowded soldiers with luggage of one kind or another. It reminded me to some extent of Harbin, where the coolies dive through the windows to get aboard.

The Secretary of the Legation, Captain Hamilton and I took tea yesterday afternoon with two Roumanian ladies and a French lady today. It was at the home of Mr. Andrews and we had a pleasant afternoon. We had quite a charming time trying to make known our thoughts to each other. The French lady would try very hard to speak nothing but English, but she would wander every now and then to her mother tongue to express her thoughts more clearly, leaving us in mid-air. We were invited to the lady’s home Sunday. Hamilton has now gone to Roman, so I am calling everything off.

Wednesday evening Jim Mills and I called on one of the ladies he met here. She speaks English very well. Tea with Cognac (of which they had but very little) and cake was served. The cake was pretty good -- it was made of honey. As scarce as everything is the Roumanians invariably place good things before the Americans.

This morning we worked up sufficient courage to ask for eggs in our room for breakfast, and to our surprise the request was granted. While they were being cooked someone came in for Shribman, my roommate, and he had to report immediately to the magazine to act as interpreter. In about another minute Day came in to say that the Colonel wanted me right away, in fact was waiting for me, so we had to leave without getting our eggs after all. Such is life when the Colonel calls on you and the world seems to be against you in general when you have real eggs in sight for the morning meal.

We are still without reply from Washington as to whether we shall remain for the winter on relief work. It is possible the Red Cross

authorities at Washington will handle the matter through the Government, and if so, we may not have to remain. On this account, we are unable to plan ahead to any great extent.

Captain Williams has not started from Archangel yet with the supplies -- another thing about which we are getting worried.

Shribman having gone to Roman with the Doctors, Jim Mills is now my room mate. Today Jim had a private interview with the Queen, lasting about an hour. Her description of the terrible suffering of the people during the taking of Bucharest and the southern part of Roumania was very touching. Tears rolled down her cheeks before she had finished. She is English, and she has a sister who is a Russian Duchess, and said they were really undecided about which side to take in the war. Germany made many attractive propositions and the Allies were equally urgent that Roumania join them. The deciding factors of the entry upon the side of the Allies seem to have been the possibility of releasing from Russian control the several millions of Roumanians in Bessarabia, and the fact that the Queen is English. She said England and France had helped Roumania in her troubles to a very great extent, but England’s help had been a little vague. She was very happy when American entered the war and feels confident that it will be through America’s aid that the war will be won for the Allies. This is the general sentiment here -- that America will have sufficient trained troops, aeroplanes and munitions on the French front to make the Spring drive of 1918 the final drive of the world war, and assure the success of Allied arms.i

Her Majesty spoke of her palace at Bucharest. Among her guards were several of Bulgarian blood and the people were strongly of the opinion that the Queen’s guard should be full-blooded Roumanians. They shortly thereafter relieved the Bulgarians who, apparently, reported to the Germans the location of the Queen’s residence and seventy-two bombs were dropped at it as a target. She was not in at the time, but the children were there. Fortunately none were hurt.

One of her Majesty’s secretaries entered while Jim was there. She knelt, kissed the Queen’s hand, then her forehead and then embraced her. It sounds rather familiar and I think Jim is mistaken about the lady’s position, although she may be a relative and at the same time, secretary.

Her Majesty seemed very confident that the Roumanian troops

i

could hold their present line, provided the Russians held their end of it. I understand upon the Roumanian front there are about three hundred thousand Roumanians and about six hundred thousand Russians. Her Majesty expects an offensive on the part of the Germans this winter. She said she does not dislike the Germans. She went to school in Germany and speaks German as fluently as she does English.

I guess that is enough about Her Majesty, except to say that she is extremely democratic, likes America very much and is, of course, grateful to us for the help being given and promised. She also said she hoped America would be good to Roumania after the war.

Saturday, October 6 th -- Major Bryan, Major Peabody and Lieutenant Connes, left today for Odessa to buy cloth or clothing for the Roumanian orphan children, to keep them from freezing this winter. This, as is the case with nearly everything else is, unobtainable in Roumania.

So far, I can not say that I feel that I have done any effective work towards helping Roumania. Of course, I am here and doing all that I can and have been kept very busy on financial matters, etc. It is proposed that relief work be undertaken upon a large scale by us, but I do not feel that I am particularly adapted to this kind of work. I would much rather go home and enter the Aviation Service. I am a great admirer of our Colonel and the fact that he is undertaking this vast job of acting as an auxiliary agency in the feeding of all Roumania is proof conclusive that the authorities at National Headquarters in Washington made no mistake in the selection of the man to head this Commission.

We all have an opinion, however, on everything in which we are interested, if we have any individuality at all. It seems to me, instead of this Commission, or rather Colonel Anderson and the secretarial force (the Commissioners return home on the 18th of October) undertaking this vast job, it might be handled by the Red Cross at Washington with our Government, and through diplomatic sources an arrangement be worked out with Russia that she will sell Roumania (up to this time she has not done so to any material extent) such food and other supplies as may be needed to tide over the winter, and also arrange for the transportation of the same, and then the distribution of such supplies be made by the Roumanian Government or Roumanian Red Cross. They know the conditions and where help is most needed. Also they have the organization and we have not. Roumania is, however, honeycombed with graft. Of course, these supplies must be purchased in Russia, as Archangel port closes now in

a month and it is impossible to ship sufficient quantities of food and other supplies from America and get them here in time to feed and clothe the Roumanians before the winter sets in. In the meantime, this Commission could assist by purchasing direct supplies from various Russian cities, until the above arrangement had been effected.

I can not very well return home without accomplishing more than I have up to this time, so I am just now very much in the hope that I will be attached to the Medical Unit as Secretary and Treasurer of the Unit. Transportation is a serious problem and I could be of considerable assistance in getting out Hospital and other supplies to the Hospital, and, besides, it seems more of a man’s job than handing out food and clothes. To tell the honest-to-God’s truth, I am sorry I can not consistently go home with the Commissioners so that I might enter the Aviation branch of the service and really do my ‘bit’. This clerical business of accounting gets on one’s nerves, particularly when you know the boys at home are in training camps, and the whole world is watching to see what America will do this coming Spring on the French front. I am in a very unhappy situation, but if there is any way out of it, I shall most certainly avail [myself] of it.

Monday, October 8 th -- Nothing of special importance today. Lemons are being sold on the streets today for six or seven lei each. In ordinary times these lemons would be purchased for five bani each at the highest. I bought a few cakes of chocolate recently, very small, about three and a half inches by two inches and about a quarter of an inch thick, at eight lei each -- ordinarily this could be purchased for not more than fifty bani each.

We are trying to arrange a trip (Mills and I) to one of the Russian border towns, but automobiles are so scarce we may be unable to make it.

Tuesday, October 9 th -- I have definitely decided to return home with the Commissioners on October 18th. The Colonel has asked me to stay, and I at first told him I would, but learned later that there were about two hundred and fifty thousand American troops on English soil. This brought home to me the fact that Jim (brother) is probably in England, that he has made no arrangements about our business beyond December 15th, and in justice to him, my family, clients and myself, [I] should return home. It will not be difficult to get someone to do the accounting, and, I suppose, my duties, if I remained, would continue along that general line.

At dinner tonight I learned that the food requirements for Roumania are about three hundred carloads daily and they are actually receiving about thirty-five car loads per day. If a tailor,

dressmaker, or merchant does any work for you, or sells you anything, he generally asks (if you are an officer) that you pay him in food -- sugar, meat, or any other food.

The situation is really appalling but nothing can be done at this end. The problem is to get food here and this can not be done from Roumania. When it is gotten here the American Minister and the Roumanian Government can take care that proper distribution is made. It seems foolish, and a waste of time and energy, to be hanging around Roumania awaiting food supplies, etc., and depending upon cablegrams, some of which never reach their destination. Am beginning to clear up my work for the return home.

This morning, while walking from the house to the Legation, and within a half block of the Queen’s Palace, I saw a crowd. Upon investigation I found a Russian officer had been found dead there (his body was then lying on the ground) in an iron box, used for dirt. He had been strangled to death and his feet cut off, evidently to permit the body to be placed in the box. I tried to learn the details from my friend Laptew but he said every time he tried to find out anything about it, the facts changed -- one time it would be a very wealthy Russian Colonel, murdered for his money, another he was not an officer at all and another that he was an officer (Russian) and did something his men did not like.

Wednesday, October 10 th -- This morning Jim Mills and I, after having tea and bread for breakfast (the bread is perfectly black and sour and I have frequently eaten it when it had green mold spots through it) went by our magazine and opened up a jar of strawberry preserves and a box of Graham crackers and had a feast. When we arrived at the Legation the Colonel had not yet shown up. Upon his arrival he said he wanted to talk to me about going home. Immediately, I began to feel myself slipping, because it is very difficult to refuse the Colonel anything. He said that Major Perkins had agreed to stay over and leave December 1st, which would enable him to reach home about the middle of January. He said my services were badly needed and if it was at all possible he would appreciate my staying until December 1st. It would delay me only two or three weeks beyond my five months’ time limit, and it was simply impossible to refuse. So, I agreed and am to remain until December 1st. It is quite a disappointment to me as I had made all arrangements to leave next Tuesday, and had on my rain coat to go to the Allied authorities to have my passport visa fixed up for travel via Norway, Sweden and Halifax, Canada.

Captain Williams has not been heard from for sometime and we do not know whether he is at Archangel or en route to Jassy with the

supplies. In fact, we are not certain that the supplies have arrived at Archangel, because we have received one cablegram saying the ship had arrived and later received another to the effect that it was expected to arrive any day.

Colonel Anderson leaves in the early morning for Roman, where we have our Hospital, so we will have very little to do tomorrow except to clear up matters already on hand.

Thursday, October 11 th -- We did not get up this morning until nearly ten o’clock -- our first opportunity since leaving home to take it easy in the morning.

Lieutenant Lascar told me tonight that in some of the villages, the parents in from thirty to forty families died, and the first regiment of soldiers passing, or stopping, would have to take care of the children. When the regiment moved, they would take the children with them. Some of them were, of course, very young and many died from exposure and starvation. It was a pitiful sight he pictured of a regiment passing by them in wagons, etc., seeing hundreds of children, many of whom did not know their own names. When the regiment had to go to the front, the children would be left at the nearest village.

A trip to the front Monday is being arranged and I am scheduled to go, but something may develop to interfere.

Today we had meat for both lunch and dinner, which is rather remarkable and worthy of note.

The Minister, Mr. Vopicka, has made several trips to the Russian front in Roumania and delivered many speeches, calling upon soldiers to fight and not make a separate peace. In three days, he spoke to sixty thousand Russian soldiers. It does no harm, but probably little good, as he reaches such a small percentage and a few minutes talk, which has to be translated by a Russian, can hardly have a very lasting effect upon them, but the Minister is a worker and will keep at it, producing as much good as he possibly can.

Wednesday, October 17 th -- I did not go to the front after all. The Colonel asked me to delay it and suggested that Captain Williams and I would go together upon his arrival. We are quite busy and it would really interfere with the work should I go at this particular time.

Captain Williams has not arrived from Archangel and we have now received advices that the Partonia (the ship containing our

supplies) has not yet arrived in port. It has evidently been torpedoed -- Damn those Germans.

Minister Vopicka gave us a very fine luncheon a few days ago, the Cabinet officers of the Roumanian Government, members of our Commission, etc., being present. It was a very elegant affair under the circumstances. It is really remarkable where the food came from, as there is, even now, an appalling shortage, which is daily growing worse, and disease is already prevalent among the poor. We all guess the Minister brought it with him from the States.

Today the entire Commission, except Colonel Anderson and Major Perkins, return to America, and Major Bryan of Richmond has promised to deliver this portion of the diary to Mary.

A last squib before closing for the pouch. Roumania is in a starving condition. I do not mean that people are actually starving today in large numbers, but this is bound to happen very soon. Supplies can not be gotten into Roumania except through Russia. It is too late to really get supplies from America and then transport them through Russia. Food and clothing must be received for this winter, either from Russia, France or England, and in order for the last two named countries to render real help, it will have to be done immediately. Nothing can be bought here. Wood is very scarce, and the supply will be depleted before the winter is over. They do not use coal in Roumania. To give an example of the shortage of materials, one of our party was offered forty-five dollars for the pair of shoes which he was wearing. One can secure no clothing here at all and the people will crowd together to keep warm and another epidemic, such as they had last winter, is sure to break out. Hospital facilities are only fair. More doctors are needed but trained nurses can not be utilized to good advantage except under the direction of American or British doctors, as the Roumanian doctors do not know how to utilize the services of a trained nurse. There are no such things in this country. They have a sufficient force of young lady volunteers, who do the best they can, even to cleaning and cooking; and the Roumanian doctors know how to make use of their services. The Army is well taken care of in respect to hospitals, but the civilian population, in the event of an offensive, will be up against it. At this writing, there are many cases of Typhus already among the poor, but as there is no offensive now they can and are being taken care of in some fashion.

What is needed, and badly needed, at the present, is -- meat extracts (for the sick), sweets and condensed milk (also badly needed for the sick), bed clothes, soap, clothing for the orphans, drugs, surgical instruments, bandages and simple nourishing food of every

character. There is no coffee, butter, sugar or white flour obtainable here. There is plenty of tea apparently.

Cables have been sent to the Red Cross at Washington covering conditions and cables have also been sent to the Associated Press at New York in order to give wide publicity. This may help the Red Cross in any campaign they may decide upon to raise funds to carry on relief work in Roumania.

I will go to Roman tomorrow to visit our hospital there and inaugurate a system to take care of the accounts and the clerical force, and if necessary will be there two or three days, possibly longer. I have secured the services of a man named Marcuson to assist in the accounting work, which will naturally be very voluminous when the food and clothing relief work starts. We find we can secure quite a few things in Russia and we hope to be able to get them to Roumania for distribution. The transportation question in Russia is the one big question. If they only had railroad facilities the problem would be easier. We have heard that the whole question will be taken up by Congress with a view to relieving the situation here, through the Allied Powers bringing proper pressure to bear upon Russia. If they will only act immediately this may fix matters.

I am feeling fine and my weight is about normal, but am not getting enough exercise and open air to suit me. This will come later as the office work will soon be at an end and I will be busy outside.

Wednesday, October 24 th -- This is the beginning of the second part of the diary. I turned over the first part to Major Bryan, who will deliver it to Mary upon his arrival at Richmond. The first part covers the period from the time I left Chicago to departure of members of the Commission from Jassy a few days ago. The departure of this party did not lend any happiness to us at all. They planned to go via Russia and Japan, with the exception of two members of the party, who will try to get through Sweden and Norway.

Monday evening of this week Major Smith came in to Jassy from Roman for me. We left by automobile about 9:00 P.M. for Roman. In the party were Major Smith, Laptew, myself, and chauffeur. We were also loaded down with supplies for the Hospital. I took with me for the boys and nurses (all purchased at Odessa by Connes) Russian Cigarettes, Peters Chocolate, Russian Nut Chocolate, four suits of Underwear, four pairs of Socks, two boxes of Writing paper, and twenty-two bags of Tobacco.

The distance is about sixty to seventy miles. We had one blow-

out. It was extremely cold. I had a sweater and overcoat on and in addition we had a very heavy fur coat for a robe and still we were uncomfortable. I had some Russian cakes and a few cigars, and these helped us out considerably while waiting for the chauffeur to change the casing and tube. We had a French Fiat machine, but it had seen better days. We arrived at Roman about one thirty in the morning. On this ride, I noticed something I don’t remember having seen anywhere else -- we would very suddenly run into a heavy thick fog and the automobile lights could not pierce it at all, but in several minutes we would again be in good clear atmosphere. This happened several times on this trip to Roman. The country through which we passed is very fertile, but not intensively worked.

Upon arrival at Roman I found a tremendous building, with two wings, with a very impressive entrance to the yard -- the entrance being about fifty yards from the building, which is of brick and stucco. Old Glory, the Roumanian and the Red Cross flags were flying on a specially constructed flag staff in front of the hospital.

I slept in one of the wards, a room about twenty-five feet by fifty feet, in which there are many cots. This ward is set aside temporarily for the American doctors. There were about six of us there. Major Kirkpatrick, Major Smith, Captain McCarthy, Lieutenant Hird, Laptew, and me. The others have rooms in the town.

The cots are simply planks with straw mattresses, no springs, two sheets and two blankets. The first night, Monday, I can’t say I slept very well, but last night I slept like a top.

For breakfast Tuesday morning we had bread, butter, honey and coffee (and not war bread either) -- a very fine breakfast. A hospital is not such a bad place after all! Later, I went the rounds to see the soldiers. I believe they have here only three civilian cases, one a baby about two years old and two sisters in their teens. The latter have Typhoid Fever. There are now about two hundred and seventy patients, the capacity being seven hundred to eight hundred. After visiting all of the wards, including the infectious diseases, of which there are a few, I went into the Dressing Room. There I saw our American doctors and nurses at real work. I saw the poor soldiers laid out on stretchers and yelling pretty loud every time the doctors or nurses would touch a very sore spot. All of the cases show infection. At the present it is a question of dressing only: draining the pus from the wounds, keeping them clean and healthy, if possible. I saw many very horrible wounds, supposedly in the process of healing. Also arms cut off, legs off, and terrible wounds in every conceivable location. One case in particular was horrible. The nurse was dressing the

man’s leg and he looked like a corpse. She was gently pouring through a small rubber tube, some kind of fluid, over his lacerated limb. The skin and flesh were so rotten and full of pus that it would make a hole wherever the stream went, and later the fluid oozed out at the lower portion of what was supposed to be his leg. The nurse worked over this very smelly case some time and bathed the poor fellow’s back, which was literally covered with bed sores, to ease him -- in fact she did everything she could to ease the poor fellow through his last moments of life. They could not amputate the leg, because the man would die under the anesthesia. She told me that they had been expecting this man to die ever since they took over the hospital, and this morning (Wednesday) I found that this patient had died during the night. While talking to one of the orderlies, or sanitas as they call them here, he simply stopped talking and without a movement he was gone.

I also saw cases of simple fracture of the leg and one in particular where the American Doctors had saved the leg for the patient, making a good leg for the future use out of one which seemed ready for amputation a few weeks ago.

There were many other cases, of course, but I will not burden the diary with them.

Six fresh cases came in Tuesday. When a fresh case comes in, he is bathed and shaved all over and some kind of solution put upon him to kill lice. After the bath a temporary dressing is made for the wound and then he goes to the regular dressing room for examination and final dressing by the American doctors. Record is taken of he character of the case and the patient is then assigned to a cot in some specific ward, dependent upon the nature and seriousness of his wound or wounds.

At present we are getting no surgical cases because there is practically no fighting going on. If an offensive is started by either side, we will be overcrowded with cases and may possibly have to evacuate the hospital at Roman, which is not so distant from the front. An enemy aeroplane has been over the hospital since we took it over and was fired upon by anti-aircraft guns. Some of our doctors plainly saw the machines, as well as the bursting shell of the anti-aircraft gun.

Tuesday afternoon we called on the Archbishop of Roman, who is a man with many whiskers and possibly about sixty-five years of age. In the party were Major Kirkpatrick, Captain McCarthy, Lieutenant Hird, the Roumanian officer at the hospital, and me. The Archbishop spoke only French, German and Roumanian, and his talk

to Major Kirkpatrick had to be interpreted. The most interesting thing he said was that before the war the population of Roumania was about eight million, and that, in his opinion, the ravages of war and disease, would reduce this number to four million. He is one of the most brilliant men in Roumania, and this expression from him is, of course, very startling. The Archbishop has a very handsome home and grounds, comprising about eight acres. The church is also in the grounds. These grounds are enclosed by a fence upon which there is a shingled roof. We went into the church, which was built prior to the discovery of America. The Altar was of silver and there were many old paintings. It had that peculiar ancient odor. We also went up into the tower, within the same grounds, from the top of which we had a splendid panoramic view of Roman and surrounding country. In this old tower there were several very large bells. The timbers were all very heavy -- about fourteen inches by sixteen inches or possibly a little larger.

We returned to the hospital for supper and went to the theatre in the evening at nine o’clock. Everything was in Russian, singing and monologues. The audience was mot enthusiastic, in fact, rather vociferous in its applause. There were two parties of American officers, each party having a box, and after the singing was over (and the singing was splendid), we had hard work keeping awake. I have found that over here theatrical performances are more thoroughly appreciated than at home. It may be that they are more easily pleased or amused, for the people here ae, of course, much simpler in every respect than at home.

Today (Wednesday) up for breakfast about seven o’clock -- good bread, butter, honey and coffee.

Major Kirkpatrick wishes me to inaugurate an accounting system for the hospital, moneys, supplies, etc. It is some job, on account of complications with the Government, but I think I can install a system which will adequately take care of it. It will necessarily be simple as I am not an Accountant.

For lunch today at the hospital we had cabbage, soup, bread and rice pudding. This does not mean that the patients had this. We furnish our own food, but the Roumanian Government furnishes food for the patients and it is of such a caliber that it is practically impossible to build up a patient and get him out in good condition.

The regular routine of our American doctors and nurses at the hospital at Roman is about as follows --

One American nurse is on night duty, assisted by Russian nurses

(sisters as they are called here). There is always a dismal looking Roumanian priest prowling around the hospital at night. All hands are up and at breakfast by seven thirty. The dining room is about fifty feet by fifteen feet with one very long table seating approximately fifty people -- American doctors and nurses, usually one or two French doctors and several Russian nurses. After breakfast doctors and nurses go to the Dressing Rooms and patients are brought in by the Serbian and Roumanian sanitas. Dressings are taken off, wounds examined and whatever that may be necessary is done and fresh dressings put on. After the dressings are over the operating starts, if there is any to be done. By this time it is about noon and the doctors’ work for the day is about complete, with the exception of course of such cases of fever, etc., which have to be given attention from time to time. The only thing left for them to do the balance of the day is to take care of such fresh cases as may come in. The nurses are naturally on the job all day looking after things.

Should an offensive start, however, everybody would be pushed day and night taking care of the fresh cases and invaliding the improved cases farther to the rear.

Sufficient wood has to be accumulated to run the furnaces for the winter -- food to be purchased for the staff’s table as well as to augment the meager supply furnished for the patients. Trips are made into the surrounding country for miles, and pigs, calves, etc., are purchased and brought in and taken care of in the hospital grounds. The distribution of medicines, bandages, gauze, bed clothing, pajamas, slippers, bath robes, etc., etc., has to be taken care of also. We have among our American doctors an eye specialist, who is doing splendid work in his particular department.

I would like to tell about some of the operations in detail but am afraid they will not prove interesting. A patient is never operated upon at Roman by our doctors until his permission is obtained for the operation. If the doctor wants to operate and the patient is obdurate, the entire case is carefully explained to him and so far no refusals have stood this test. Our doctors are, however, extremely careful and no operation is performed until it is taken up with our medical Director, Major Kirkpatrick, and thoroughly discussed -- this policy may fall down in the event of an offensive, but now it is very easy to work it, without causing any delays.

Saturday, October 27 th -- I stayed in Roman until Friday, when Laptew, Major Yates and I came in by auto to Jassy, where I am now. Major Yates is the American Military Attache in Roumania. Nothing exciting happened on the way to Jassy except that we ran over a pig.

It should really be a crime to kill a pig in this country except for the purpose of eating him, but someone will pick it up and it will serve the purpose for which it was fattened.

Before leaving Roman I went thoroughly over the entire system of work and am now preparing a report for Major Kirkpatrick containing recommendations.

Before leaving I saw three operations and two x-rays taken.

While out with Hird I bought some locks for the hospital and later ten pieces of chocolate at ten lei each, or eighty cents each -- and the chocolate was no good.

We arrived at Jassy about 4:30 P.M. yesterday, and I found the boys had put up an American and Red Cross flag in our new office, which is in the Bank of Jassy building, next door to a very large building which we are thinking of opening up as a hospital. The Colonel was not at the office, but at his rooms with LaGrippe [now called the flu]. We had sent Miss Torrance from Roman a few days before to take care of him. Today (Saturday) he is improved but far from well.

Tomorrow (Sunday) Major Perkins, Mills, Topping, Laptew and I expect to auto about eight miles to a small town and then walk about five miles through the forests, build a fire and walk back to the town, then return to the automobile and make for Jassy.

Cablegrams have been received that the Archangel shipment has actually arrived there and Captain Williams left yesterday with the shipment en route to Jassy. It may take only ten days but may take several weeks.

Tonight for dinner we again realized that rations were very evidently low. We had a little soup with spaghetti -- very little spaghetti -- and a dish I will have to describe, as I do not know what it is called -- it contained potatoes, tomatoes, and onions, and was not particularly good. Also a pastry, coffee and a little very poor wine. They very frequently serve us peppers, but even they are missing. We could change to another place, but if we do, [we] leave Jack Day (our Sergeant) by himself, as the other place is private and there are two officers there, and Day is a non-commissioned officer. I am trying to get our fellows to stick so Day will not die of the blues. It is lonesome enough in this apparently God forsaken country without making any of us worse off than may be necessary. Day is now grieving his eyeballs out about the Colonel being sick. He will probably be in bed

for four or five days longer.

It is rather cold now and there is no heat in my room. At night I have to augment my bed covering with my overcoat and rain coat. I have two blankets in the magazine in my trunk and Sunday night I will have them on my bed.

Here I am, many miles from home, with serious doubt as to whether we can get back, even through Russia, and if we can it will be with great difficulty and hardship, as we will not go back in a private train with heated cars and it is some long trip across Russia.

There is absolutely nothing to do here at night in the way of amusement. If I was at home tonight I could think of many things I might do. One thing I have learned and learned well, is that we have a truly wonderful country. Really just as wonderful as you tell people it is, and then later think to yourself that you have exaggerated its advantages and richness. It is the one great, rich, free country on the globe; and one can not be too proud in saying that he is an American. This little country has practically no manufacturers. They are all farmers and storekeepers and naturally they are up against it now. If the same thing should happen to the United States as has happened to poor Roumania, we would be in an eminently better position to take care of ourselves because we grow sufficient food in any and every section (with the possible exception of the far South)ii to take care of the population in that particular territory, and then again our manufacturers are scattered throughout the States.

Thursday, November 1 st -- Meat is being given out once a week - one pound. Bread (so-called) daily. It is black, hard and frequently moldy. I went over to one of the poorer quarters of the town a few days ago to a pattern maker’s shop, or carpenter’s shop, to see a desk. The whole section was simply one hovel after another. I saw several bread lines waiting patiently.

I was told on Tuesday that I was to go to Kiev, Russia, accompanied by a Russian officer, with a view to buying for the Commission, several automobiles, which are badly needed. I know very little about the mechanism of an automobile, but at that know more than any of our party probably, and was selected for that reason. The plan, however, was abandoned because we discovered they were asking fabulous sums for second hand cars. Nothing can be secured under five thousand rubles ($1,000) and a really passable

ii

machine costs from twenty to forty thousand rubles ($4,000 to $8,000). A second hand Ford is about $1,000. We are now negotiating with two Russian Colonels, who have just arrived from Petrograd. We may be able to get twenty-five to forty automobiles from them. These are badly needed for relief work this winter, as we can not depend upon railroads to reach many places.

Major Perkins came to my room this evening to find out where we could sleep the two Russian Colonels. I suggested Day’s room, without linen, as Day is without this scarce article, so we installed them there and Day is sleeping in my room on Mills’ bed. Mills has gone to the front for news to send to America.

We have received advices from Washington that they will ship us practically everything we have cabled them to ship, and that means clothing, food, medicines, etc. There is no telling when we will get it, however. We have purchased large quantities of clothing at Odessa, and also a large portion of the cargo of a Norwegian ship at Archangel. In addition to this, our Archangel shipment has arrived and Captain Williams is on his way here with it. This last named contains largely medical and surgical supplies and equipment -- also various hospital equipment. Among the Norwegian cargo above referred to, we purchased over five thousand barrels of salt herrings of which the Roumanians are very fond. I have seen the Roumanian soldiers eat this raw fish with the greatest relish. I sent one in particular out for lunch (he had been acting as guard at the depot) and when he came back he had a fish in one hand (raw) and a hunk of war bread in the other. I don’t know where he secured the bread -- but this was considered by him a perfectly good meal.

If we can get all of the supplies above referred to before winter sets in, we will be able to help the Roumanians to some extent, but I am afraid we are not going to be able to do the job systematically, or, in fact, satisfactorily, unless we leave the entire distribution to the Government authorities, or possibly a Committee, appointed by the Government, and including all classes.

The Jewish question here is an acute one, and unless the Jews are represented in some way, they will receive very little help.

Colonel Anderson was at the office for a few minutes but is still very weak.

I have been very busy on accounts and will make up all statements tomorrow and hope to be able to go to Roman Saturday or Sunday.

To show how impossible it is to get the simplest articles here -- we were sending some cement to Roman and in moving the barrels at the station our Roumanian help broke several of them. We had Mr. Laptew try to get us barrels or cement bags, or anything to hold the cement. After a search he finally secured one small barrel, which we couldn’t use. We then went by our magazine and emptied two American Biscuit Company’s large boxes. These are of wood on the outside and there is a tin receptacle on the inside. With two of these and the use of a carpenter for about fifteen minutes to mend one of the barrels, we had things fixed up in some shape. But nothing could be found except in our own store more suitable for the purpose.

I have borrowed a small alcohol jet and now fix my own coffee in the mornings. We have the George Washington Brand Instantaneous Coffee and it makes a good cup of coffee and very quickly. This, with condensed milk, a few crackers, and some canned meat -- I am now living like a Prince for breakfast and know I will be able to accomplish more during the day. For several days our food has been almost inedible, but today it was pretty good. We had meat for lunch as well as dinner, but it must be remembered that I am eating at Staff Headquarters. If it is in Roumania, these people have the handling of it, and as long as there is anything at all to eat I guess we will have it at this Popote.

Sunday, November 18 th -- Since November 1st, things have been moving along rather roughly, food getting worse and worse. I made another trip to Roman about a week ago and installed an accounting system and other details, as recommended by me in a report made to Colonel Anderson and Major Kirkpatrick.

The Colonel has entered into an agreement with the two Russian Colonels, previously mentioned, on the automobile question. Under this agreement Colonel Kolpashnikoff is attached to the American Red Cross Mission to Roumania, with his entire staff and about forty automobiles, in charge of transportation. These automobiles, which, up to this time, have been in charge of Colonel K. (of the Russian Red Cross), were donated by Americans to the Siberian Regiment, but have not been used for some time. The plan now is for Colonel Kolpashnikoff to go to Petrograd, assemble the automobiles, necessary repair parts and replacements (which can not be obtained in Roumania) and chauffeurs, and bring them to Jassy as soon as possible, for the work of distributing food and clothing in our Relief Campaign. The American Red Cross is put to no expense in connection with the matter except the pay of the Chauffeurs, and can retain the automobiles as long as we are doing work in this section,

after which they are to be returned to the Russian Red Cross. A rather nifty arrangement and one which completely solves the transportation matter.

A typical home in the poorer section of Jassy, visited by some of us, should be of interest. You enter a dilapidated looking hut -- one story, thatched roof. The floor is mother earth and frequently there are pools of water, or else it is very muddy. In some you find cots, but in many straw or rags serve as beds. It is not uncommon to find from four to seven people, most of whom are ill, some from starvation and others Typhus, and eventually all with Typhus. In some cases the care of an entire family rests upon a child, who is not stricken. These sights are simply appalling and make one’s heart bleed.

Captain Williams actually arrived this morning with the Archangel shipment, only one car short -- a wonderful record. I have had only a very short talk with him, from which I gathered that he had many exciting experiences bringing this train to Jassy. Many times Russian soldiers pounded upon the doors trying to get in, and many times he was delayed at various stations because engines could not be obtained or because the trainmen didn’t care to work. At one point there was a strike of enginemen, but through his Russian interpreter he was finally able to secure a crew to go on with the train. In many places in Russia rioting is going on. At Moscow, there was quite a good deal of fighting in the Kremlin, also at Kiev and other places.

At 5:00 P.M. this afternoon I left Jassy for Odessa, accompanied by a Russian no-commissioned officer, to arrange business matters at Odessa with Jacobs, Owen & Co. and others, in connection with purchases for relief work. I am equipped with the proper authority from Colonel Anderson to Jacobs Owen & Co. and hope to be able to put over a good business deal for the Red Cross. I also have copy of a telegram being sent about me by the Russian Military Headquarters here to the authorities at Odessa.

We are traveling in reasonable comfort, have a drawing room or compartment. No diner attached. It takes thirty-six hours to make the trip -- in America it would take about eight hours. At Ungheni, the border, we were able to get soup, meat and potatoes. I brought along several boxes of American biscuits, jam, coffee, milk, salmon and a coffee pot. My Russian has tea and knows how to prepare it to perfection. We are now at Ungheni, where we have been for an hour. We have no lights, but I brought along my candle lamp and two candles. There are no sheets, but I have a blanket.

I have Mary’s revolver with extra cartridges with me. I always

carry it on my trips, but have used it only once so far, then only for target practice, while the chauffeur was mending the puncture on a trip from Piatra to Roman. I find I failed to mention this trip in the diary. After having worked pretty hard at the hospital at Roman for several days, Major Kirkpatrick ordered me to take an automobile ride, to get some fresh air -- we went as far as Piatra, towards the front (about fifty miles). This little town is about three or four miles from the front.

Monday, November 19 t h -- At 1:30 we stop at Bendery for an hour or so for lunch. There is an abundance of eggs, milk, meat, potatoes, coffee and tea. A Russian station restaurant is quite different from an American one. No one thinks of removing his hat. You sit at a very long table seating about twenty-five to thirty people. There are also smaller tables. Waiters are all Russian men in very much soiled attire. Soup is invariably served first. If the Russians have a national dish it certainly must be soup with cabbage in it. Then we had meat and potatoes, Citro (lemonade) and Near Beer. (We were afraid to drink the water.) The bread is all black, but plenty of it. No butter yet.

I met at the table an Engineer with the rank of Colonel and a Russian Colonel, who are traveling on the same train with us in a private car. When my Russian asked how soon we would get to Odessa and was answered “Midnight”, they immediately insisted that I should call upon them for any assistance needed, and if I desired it would be their pleasure to take care of me in their car. Very nice and neighborly. Everybody wants to help an American in uniform, and I am treated with the greatest courtesy by all, regardless of their rank. I gave a beggar five rubles at the station. The interpreter wanted to take it away from him, but I would not let him. The poor fellow had never received so much at one time in his life, so I made one miserable man happy today.

There are twenty millions of Russian soldiers, I learned today -- called out by the Czar -- of which eight millions are at the front; the balance are busy causing revolutions throughout Russia. These twelve millions of men do not want to go to the front and they drill very little, if any.

Arrived at the wonderful seaport town of Odessa about 11:30 P.M. My Russian, who, by the way, has an indefinite rank of Cadet, is named Robins. After a Cadet stays in the trenches for four months he is entitled to a Third Lieutenancy. In the meantime, he is the highest rankling non-commissioned officer. We finally got the station porter to take our luggage to a drowsky and off we went for a hotel. We

tried the Petrograd and the London House, but both were filled. We finally went to the International Hotel and I was determined to stop here. At first nothing could be done, but I insisted and was told to call up the Commandant which seems necessary before one can secure a room, and, after calling up the Commandant, Robins told him the whole story and the reply that came from the Russian Commandant was that he didn’t “give a damn” who wanted rooms -- he didn’t have any. I, however, stuck to the job and by tipping the porter at the hotel and through the assistance of the Engineer I met en route, a room was finally secured for me, and Robins slept upon the couch.

Tuesday, November 20 th -- Robins was up early this morning. He arranged to have my rain coat and over coat pressed, soiled clothes, which I brought with me, washed, and secured another room, because he was with an American officer. All very fine and Robins works this game to a finish.

From the window in my room I can look out upon the Black Sea. In this life you can’t tell what will happen to you. It had never occurred to me that I would ever see the Black Sea, except upon a map, and here it is before my eyes in reality.

After breakfast we started off by drowsky for the Russian Baths (very similar to the Turkish baths). On the way I was astonished to see stores well stocked with every conceivable eatable, etc. This was my first sight of this sort for over two months and I find I cannot easily get over it, or rather get used to it. I bought some cigarettes, cigarette case of alligator skin, half a dozen pairs of socks, half a dozen handkerchiefs, and several English lighters with extra cord and emery, and then took a drowsky for the Bath House. It was worth stopping for -- I enjoyed the sensation of spending money again. Had a splendid bath and actually feel clean -- quite a novel experience.

Odessa is a very large city, as well as a flourishing one. There are, of course, thousands of wealthy people from other sections of Russia and from Roumania -- really refugees, looking for safety and plenty to eat, but there is now considerable talk in the air about disorders and they are leaving Odessa in large numbers. There are many handsome buildings and, as it is a very large seaport, the population is more or less cosmopolitan.

I called upon Consul Ray, who was out, but we met there one of his assistants, Mr. Jack Embrey. He very kindly gave me some American papers and Government Bulletins.

I then called upon Mr. Owen, a young Englishman of about twenty-five years of age, with Jacobs, Owen & Co., our brokers or agents, at Odessa. We talked over matters generally and it looks as if I might be able to return to Jassy in a few days with everything ship-shape.

I am now at the Hotel, where we have just finished dinner in my room. Soup, fish, veal cutlet, potatoes, spinach, apples, coffee and near beer. It surely tasted good. I find it difficult to restrain myself when it comes to eating and my appetite normally is a very modest one. Ordinarily it is not interesting to know what one has for a meal, but by following it through the diary it will be probably of some interest to note what can be obtained in the different sections of the world at this time.

Will remain in my room tonight and do some work in order to be better prepared to talk to and work with Mr. Owen tomorrow.

Now 8:00 P.M. Have finished my work. Robins has come in and brings news that recently the Russian Headquarters at Jassy, who have charge also of the Odessa section, dismissed the Military head of Odessa and assigned a new man. The soldiers here declare they will not accept him. This word has reached Headquarters and they are sending troops to enforce the order. These troops are scheduled to arrive day after tomorrow (Thursday) and every one says there will be bloodshed and civil warfare. The hotel in which we are staying is Military and Robins says we may be under siege, etc. Similar disturbances in Moscow caused the death of about four thousand persons recently. This kind of talk is continually in the air. I am writing it down while it is fresh in my mind. I expect nothing to happen, but if it does I imagine we will have a very exciting time of it but not serious, I hope.

Thursday, November 22 nd -- Everything running smoothly. Have been able to wake up Jacobs Owen & Co. and make them hustle to some extent, but it is discouraging. I can’t get them started before 10:00 A.M. and at 1:00 P.M. they stop and can’t possibly start again until 3:30 P.M. or 4:00 P.M. and stop again at 5: or 5:30 P.M. Today I got off a telegram (after being advised by everybody that it was quite impossible) to Jassy using the Russian military wires, reporting to Colonel Anderson what could be purchased at Odessa, the quantity and price, the status of negotiations up to date, etc. It took one very long telegram, probably two hundred words, and a short one. I believe very strongly in brevity, but the Colonel has been unable to get any information of value at all from Odessa, and I meant to give him all that I could get that would be useful to him.

Robins obtained from a Russian Colonel for me a quart of White Label Scotch whiskey for twenty-five rubles or about three dollars and seventy-five cents, which is cheap considering Russia is dry. I have asked the Colonel (through Robins) to get five additional quarts for the boys at Jassy.

There is now a very strong rumor here that Roumania is preparing to make a separate peace, but, of course, there is nothing in it; but I am very much worried about the news that no more shipments will be permitted from Russia to Roumania. Maybe after all, I will not be able to take back anything with me. Tomorrow morning I try my luck at having four cars of supplies attached to the passenger train, with guards, etc. I will keep after the Russian authorities until they do what we want done and hope to be successful and have the cars in Jassy before December first.

I today received a telegram from Captain Williams dated the 19th, saying he expected to leave on the 25th for home. I wired him not to desert me, but arrange for me to return with him. I hope to be home February first. Mr. Embrey, of the Consulate, called upon me at the Hotel tonight about 8:30 and we went to a Russian café and later to a movie. He is much interested in the prospect of returning to America with me. To bed about 12:30.

Friday, November 23 rd -- Was unable to accomplish anything definite today. Have been busy going from place to place, getting a line on what is in the city in the way of food and clothing. Found I would have to have five cars and started on the work of arranging to have them attached to the passenger train, leaving Odessa Tuesday morning. Am having all boxes marked and listed, to save work at the Jassy end upon receipt of goods. Received telegram (not in reply to mine but sent prior to it) ordering a few additional articles and requesting me to try to get clerical help here for Jassy.

Lunched at the London House today. Had very thick steak, excellent potatoes, fish and coffee.

Consul Ray had dinner with me tonight in my room, also a Mr. Twose, an American artist who came over with an Ambulance Corp and was laid up at Odessa with Typhoid Fever and was taken care of by the Y.M.C.A. I am trying to get him to join the Red Cross at Jassy for relief work, and he is very much interested. We also had with us a very young Russian Lieutenant, who seemed very bashful -- something out of the ordinary among Russians. After dinner Consul Ray took the whole party for a short walk to the Robinat Café, a French Café,

where we had tea and chocolate. While there another Russian officer told the young officer with us that at another café across the street soldiers were going through and searching officers for revolvers and taking them. Our friend was very much concerned and excited over it, as he had two small automatics with him. However, we escorted him home and nothing happened.

It is a common case for soldiers to hold up women on the street and take their shoes, or some other garment that might strike their fancy, or which may be particularly valuable. In one instance, a woman was accosted on the street by a Russian soldier, who wanted to know if she would like to buy a beautiful fur coat at a bargain. Upon replying that she would, the soldier sold her the coat she was wearing for two hundred and fifty rubles, and let her go with the coat. He was a charitable soldier -- most of them would have taken both coat and money.

Saturday, November 24 th -- Up this morning about 9:00 A.M. Can not see the Russian General about my cars until about 11 or 11:30 A.M. Practically finished all of my personal shopping yesterday.

While out shopping I saw a murder committed across the street from where I was buying two French books. One Russian cut another into ribbons and dashed into one of the large doorways to an alley, locking the door after him. The crowd set up the most unearthly wails and shrieks I ever heard in my life, trying to get through the doorway and bring the murderer to justice. I left and bought some articles in a store nearby and when I came by this place in about fifteen minutes, the crowd was still yelling like mad and clamoring for the man, who had long ago made his escape.

Later -- The General gave me a splendid audience -- was very complimentary and appreciative of what America was doing and would do. He readily agreed to do anything in his power for me and quickly gave orders for the cars as well as a Cossack guard of five to report to me at the train.

Have seen two parades today and several mobs, but no rough stuff. Everything seems very peaceful. I understand the Allies have just replied to the Russian demand for peace. It is in the papers here today that should Russia break her agreement by making a separate peace, she would have to bear the consequences. This would mean very disastrous things for Russia should the Allies win, and the Generals commanding the armies have answered that they would fight, but how can they fight if the soldiers will not? The Russian soldiers seem unanimous on this one principle -- we have had enough

of war, let’s have peace -- and as sad as it is to relate, the officers have practically no control over the men. In fact, one of the Russian Liberty theories is that every soldier, regardless of rank, receives the same pay. What are you going to do with a nation like this anyhow? At least ninety-five percent of them are illiterates.

Another late move is that a young Russian, ranking as a Third Lieutenant, has been made Commander in Chief of all the Russian Armies. This was done because the General commanding would not negotiate for peace; so they put someone in power who would. The whole truth seems to be that the Russian people want peace and refuse to fight and apparently do not care, or probably do not realize, what will become of the country as a nation.

I was told by the Consul about one instance of Russian cruelty. Sometime ago Russian sailors robbed their officers, broke through the ice and dropped the officers, one by one, in the hole; then they took them out and kept them long enough for their clothes to become one mass of ice, dropped them back, and continued this process for sometime and then finally allowed them to remain in the water -- half frozen and then drowned.

This evening I am invited by Mr. Owen to the British-American Club for dinner. Mr. Ray also invited me to the same place, but after I had accepted Mr. Owen’s invitation. I have also been invited, through Robins, to various Russian officers’ houses and quarters, but I am giving the gentlemen a wide berth -- if they speak English I accept, otherwise, I am one very busy young man and regret that I can not have the pleasure.

Later -- The British American Club seems to be more strictly British. I met about fifteen Englishmen and two Americans, the latter having been here for years representing an America firm -- Romley Products. After watching four Englishmen playing pool we had dinner. The English pool table is much larger than the American. We were served a good meal with wine -- all of us being seated at one long table. After dinner I played poker with three of the Englishmen. Left about 2:00 A.M. They bought many bottles of wine and became quite happy and were all very enthusiastic about America and Americans generally. I invited them to my room Monday evening.

Sunday, November 25 th -- On account of my telegram from Russian Headquarters at Jassy, authorizing shipment of only medicinal goods to Jassy, it seemed for a while this morning that I would have trouble getting away with the food stuffs and other miscellaneous goods. In fact, I was told it was impossible, but by persevering and refusing to

take “No”, we finally arranged matters. The Russian General helped me out of this situation, also the Russian in charge of the Railways. I secured the full co-operation of the railroad man by asking for his card, in order that I might hand it in with my report to the American Colonel. This flattered the old boy to such an extent I believe he would have given me the railroad if possible.

I had lunch with the American Consul, Mr. Ray, and went to the opera in the evening, with Robins. This is claimed to be the handsomest Opera House in Russia. There are three entrances, it is four stories high, the seating capacity is eighteen hundred and it took three and a half years to build it. Was built in 1860 and remodeled in 1880, after a big fire. The lights of this Opera House can be seen by the ships on the Black Sea. There were really two performances -- one short opera and one long. It began at 7:30 and ended at 11:30 P.M. The singing was beautiful. During intermission sandwiches and tea were served in the wide corridor, which seems to extend around at least half of the building.

Many people were on the streets today discussing the coming elections. There were crowds of sometimes several hundred, but in every instance I saw they were all quite as orderly as they are in America. Elections last three days.

America’s telegram about refusing to ship material until they know to whom it is going, or rather, until a Government is established, created no adverse criticism in this section of Russia. The Allies’ note advising that if Russian made a separate peace she would do so at her peril, was badly received, of course. The situation seems pretty bad. There are so many rumors, it is hard to get anything out of them.

Monday, November 26 th -- Not hearing explicitly from the Colonel about purchasing additional goods, but knowing the terrible need for various articles in Roumania, I am taking a chance and buying large quantities of supplies, to be shipped just as soon as they can be gotten ready -- this material will take at least eight to ten cars.

Am very busy preparing to leave tomorrow. Tonight the three Englishmen gave me a dinner at the London House and then spent the evening with me in my room playing cards as a farewell party. Embrey is going to return to America and is going to Jassy with me so we can make the trip together.

Tuesday, November 27 th -- Up early and left for Jassy about 10:00 A.M. Embrey, Major Hughes (an Australian), Robins and I occupy a coupe.

The Cossacks, ordered by the Russian General to report to me at the train, did not show up, so I will have to get my five cars into Roumania without a guard. It evidently did not suit the Cossacks to make the trip at this particular time. This is one of the results of Russia’s new freedom -- they do only what they want to do, regardless of orders. Ordinarily, however, this does not apply to cossacks.

Wednesday, November 28 th --Had a little trouble at two points today -- the first one didn’t amount to much. They disconnected my cars from the train, but I had little difficulty in having them switched back on again. The next time, however, it was rather hard. At each station I have been getting out and seeing that the cars were still attached to the train. At this place, we were to lay over for about an hour and I did not go to the rear of the train until about fifteen before the time for our departure, when I discovered the cars had been detached from the train and were not in sight. I thought I was a ruined man. Taking Robins with me I hunted up the Russian Station Master, finding him in a small room in which were packed about fifty Russian soldiers. The situation was explained to the gentleman, through Robins. At first he absolutely refused to do anything about it saying he had orders to cut off these cars. I told him I had orders from the highest Commanding General in Southern Russian for their delivery to Jassy by that train, and I intended taking them in, besides my American Colonel was expecting these cars on this particular train, and no one could afford to disappoint him. You have to do considerable bluffing -- these people have been bluffed all of their lives and know nothing else -- it’s part of the game if you want to get results. He became quite excited and telephoned to various persons, one of whom could be reached. He finally said that if I would let the train go ahead, he would give me a special engine to take my cars into Jassy immediately after this train. I could hardly refrain from laughing at this, but I knew very well that I would not get the special engine and told him I didn’t want it; that that would not solve the problem at all. As a final shot I told him that he could not move that train without my cars -- that if necessary I would stand in front of the engine and I knew they would not run down an American uniform. I knew very well if I let the train get away I would be held up there indefinitely and would lose a large part of my shipment. He finally gave orders for an engine to go down the road and pick up my cars, which were side-tracked somewhere, and attached them to the train. I checked them up and saw that everything was ok, thanked the Station Master and we continued our journey.

Arrived at Jassy about midnight (Wednesday). Major Hughes spent the night with me and Embrey put up temporarily at the American Military Attache.

Monday, December 3 rd -- The Colonel thoroughly approved of the purchases made by me at Odessa. Have been working day and night to get away. On Thanksgiving Day our entire party (Red Cross), except me, were at Roman, celebrating a real American Thanksgiving Day, with all the good things that go with it, with the exception of Cranberry Sauce. I expected to go, but had too much work to do before my departure for home, and it would mean the loss of one day to me. The American Minister, however, gave a dinner in the evening to Mr. Morgan, the Y.M.C.A. man, Embrey, Mayer and myself. Today he gave a farewell luncheon to Major Perkins and myself. Present were -- the Minister, Colonel Anderson, Major Perkins, Embrey, Col. Yates, Mills, Topping, and Mayer (and me).

Embrey and I leave Jassy for America on the 5:00 P.M. train. Major Perkins intended going back with me but on account of a rumored retreat of the Roumanian forces and possible evacuation of Jassy, he has changed his mind. The Colonel was surprise that I intended going without Major Perkins, but I told him all of my arrangements were made and I would rather go ahead, if I could go with his approval -- which he granted, as well as a letter of a complimentary nature to headquarters at Washington.

The Colonel bade me farewell at the office. The Minister sent his Secretary and Colonel Yates his aide to see me off. Old friend Mills came to the station, also McCarthy, Hird and Major Perkins. Mills left me a package to be opened when I had the blues, also a note which was very friendly and which I value highly. Finally we moved off.

We are in a compartment of two lowers and two uppers. Embrey and I have one side, and two Russian officers have the lower on the other side and another officer the upper. There is no bed linen at all. You simply lie down, throw your blanket over you -- if you are lucky enough to have one -- and go to sleep.

Tuesday, December 4 th , and Wednesday, December 5 th -- The soldiers are very noisy and persistent at every station, trying to get a place in our car. At one station, one of them was lucky enough to get in (a non-commissioned officer) and I was unlucky enough to have him on my bed all night. It was a nightmare really but at the same time laughable. There were six asleep (to be truthful there were five asleep) in our compartment -- the Russian on my bunk, two opposite, and one each in the uppers. Everybody sleeping with their clothes on and the Russians even with their boots still on. Every time I would dream away the Russian’s boots would seem to switch to the vicinity

of my face, so finally I sat up and let him sleep -- I reached this decision after having pushed him practically off of the bunk three or four times, but there was no use, those boots would come back.

Thursday, December 6 th -- Arrived at Kiev about 10:00 A.M. We took a drowsky and left our baggage at the Continental Hotel, then did some shopping, laying in a supply of food stuffs to carry us across Russia, to Japan. We visited the British Consul and through him discovered that our Courier passports might enable us to go via Finland, Sweden, Norway and England, instead of the long tiresome trip back through Russia. We have, therefore, decided to take the shorter route.

We are now in a Polish Tea House. While writing up this diary sitting at the little tea table, twice there have been sudden quarrels, everybody getting up and talking loudly, but so far nothing has happened, but it keeps you on edge watching to see what might happen. This is one of the best tea houses in Kiev.

Later -- I have been around Kiev sight-seeing (on the trip to Roumania) and today we are busy trying to get away as quickly as possible, so we will not miss our steamer connection. We had dinner at the Continental Hotel and about 8:00 P.M. started for the train. When we arrived at the station, we found there was some trouble and the station so crowded we could hardly move about. My companion, Jack Embrey (who is not in uniform) was arrested, but upon showing his Courier Passport, was released. We had our baggage of five grips, one trunk and one box deposited on a counter in the station. There was no definite news obtainable as to when the train would arrive. We tipped one of the porters twenty-five rubles to see that our baggage was put upon the right train. Every available space in the station was used. The dirty brown uniform of the Russians formed the unpleasant color scheme. They were lying on the floor, on the counter, in fact, everywhere. One could not walk about without stepping upon them. Women, of all ages, were also lying on the floor, none of them having blankets or covering of any kind. I saw one young woman with a few months’ old baby lying on the floor among the soldiers, asleep. Jack slept several hours while I kept guard and I slept about one hour. We were able, by hard work, to get coffee and sandwiches. I can’t say that either of us had a particularly glorious time, but it was very interesting and a night neither of us will ever forget. We remained in the station until 8:00 A.M. Friday when the train pulled in. Our porter got all of our baggage in our compartment and we locked the door immediately and went to sleep. We were awakened several times by persistent knocking on our door, but paid no attention until in the afternoon, about five o’clock, the porter unlocked the door. We also had it chained, however, so he could only

open it a crack. We asked him how many wanted to get in and he said two, so we let in a Polish Captain and a young lady of about seventeen. This gives each of us a berth. The Captain and I have the lowers and Jack and the lady the uppers. To our great surprise we found we were still at Kiev. Even the corridors of the train are packed and some of the soldiers are persistent about getting in our stateroom, but I have had one experience and I hope it is the last of its kind. After they knock and bang for a long time, we open the door on a crack and say there is nothing doing, bang the door hard and they bother you no more.

Saturday, December 8 th -- Nothing startling today, except at one station we saw a dead soldier lying outside of our window. The corridors of the train are packed even a little worse than they were yesterday. We will probably arrive at Moscow Sunday afternoon.

My friend Embrey understands sufficient Russian to get along nicely. He has been in Russia for two years, located at Odessa. It seems the young lady with us is going to Moscow, studying Artistic Dancing, and will soon graduate. She is well educated and has read many books by English, French and American authors. She also speaks several languages.

Our Polish Captain is a very young man -- certainly not more than 27 and modest. He is the possessor of one of the most cherished Russian orders, but instead of wearing it, he has had it placed on his sword in a very inconspicuous place. He has the mark of a wound right over his right eye, which can hardly be seen. The bullet entered there and came out in his neck where there is a bad looking scar. He says he was treated by an American doctor.

We can get no air at all in our compartment. We have to keep both the doors and windows (the latter remain locked) closed all the time, and, as the Russian soldiers ride on top of the cars, we know, from experience, it is not safe to open the ventilators in the roof.

Sunday, December 9 th -- Arrived in Moscow about 1:00 P.M. and took drowsky to Consulate. General Consul Somers advised us that the Roumanians and Russians on the Roumanian front had agreed to an armistice with the Germans and Austrians and that the Red Cross party had left Jassy for Odessa. Without in the least doubting the General Consul, I say that his informant is all wrong. I can’t believe it.

We are trying to get tickets to Petrograd, leaving tonight. Had tea about 5:00 P.M. with a Russian family in the Consulate Building --

two young men and two young ladies -- all speak English, one without any foreign accent. They invited me for dinner at 6:30. One of the young men said that in the recent fighting at Moscow, German officers participated on the side of the Bolsheviks and upon some of the dead was found German money. The Metropole Hotel was destroyed. It is quite in ruins and the National Hotel is badly damaged. Moscow now seems very quiet.

Embrey secured accommodations so we are off tonight at 9:00 P.M. for Petrograd. Embrey understanding the language is the official pilot on Russian territory, and is kept as busy as a bee, as we are not wasting time, but traveling all the time.

We left our dinner friends after dark for the station. They told us there had been many hold-ups and to be careful. So we loaded our drowsky down and Embrey and I got in. I kept my revolver in my overcoat pocket, ready for instant action, but fortunately we were not disturbed.

Monday, December 10 th -- Arrived Petrograd about noon. Everything ran smoothly getting off at Moscow. We had a compartment for two. Soldiers were again crowded in the aisles and one officer (Russian) insisted for about ten minutes upon coming into our compartment, but finally gave it up as a bad job.

Immediately upon our arrival at Petrograd, we went to the Embassy. I had the pleasure of meeting our Ambassador, Mr. Francis, a delightful gentleman about 65 or 70 years of age, but very active and apparently not over 50 years of age. Met also Colonel Kolpashnikoff who is in charge of Transports for American Red Cross Mission to Roumania. He immediately offered me an automobile so we took our trunk and five bags to the home of one of Embrey’s friends (Mr. Todabush). Had lunch here and then returned to the Embassy. Found out that the Roumanians are still on the job and the American Red Cross unit still at Jassy.

We secured a drowsky and then started the rounds to get our passports in such shape as to go via the Atlantic instead of the Pacific, and also with the idea of getting away as soon as possible. We first visited the Swedish Legation and secured permission to go via Sweden. Thence to the Allied Bureau, but we were too late. Then to the British Embassy, thence the British War Commission, and at the last named place received permission to go to England.

We had a nice dinner in the evening with Embrey’s friend and six other American boys. After dinner they all went to the opera and

Embrey and I went to the station to buy tickets, which we were able to secure for the following morning. This turned the trick, and in eight hours we had accomplished what we had been told could not be done in less than a week, but it kept both of us on the move all the time, and then we are going to try to get out of Russia without the approval of the Bolsheviki, and feel confident we can do this on account of our Courier Passports. Arrangements had then to be made to get our baggage to the station in the early morning, so we took a drowsky to the Hotel d’Europe, the headquarters of the American Red Cross Mission to Russia, looking for Colonel Kolpashnikoff, but he was not there; we did, however, take a good hot bath and then two of the boys took us to Todabush’s house in a limousine. We had engaged two drowskys to be at the house at 7:00 A.M. tomorrow, but later Colonel Kolpashnikoff called me up and promised to send us an automobile in the morning. It was then 12:30 and in order to get my diplomatic pouch from the embassy, where I had left it for safe keeping, I asked the Colonel to send me an automobile then, and Todabush and I went to the Embassy and secured the pouch. To bed about 2:00 A.M. with alarm set for 6:30.

Tuesday, December 11th -- The automobile showed up this morning on time and we got our baggage into our compartment for two without mishap.

No soldiers in the aisles now, because we are en route to the border -- through Finland. We both took a nap, had something to eat and then at the Finland border, at about 11:30 A.M., had to get off to have our passports examined. Off again in about an hour. We now have a diner attached and everything on the train is in good order -- not a single Russian soldier with his inseparable dirty bundle. I feel like we have at last reached civilization again.

Will go back for a moment to Petrograd. The city was covered with a blanket of snow and ice. All of the drowskys were sleighs and everyone, for a wonder, seemed very orderly and busy. There were hundreds of magnificent buildings, but we were so busy making our arrangements to leave that we did not visit any of them. Many of them were peppered with bullet holes (machine gun fire), showing they had been under siege. There was a great deal of talk about disorders and civil warfare.

Wednesday, December 12 th -- Train is four hours late. This cuts our time at Torneo short, where we have much to do: secure tickets, get passed by the Russian authorities, take care of our baggage, etc. Diner will be attached about noon today and we will have something hot to eat.

To avoid any possible trouble in Sweden (pro-German) I took off my uniform and borrowed a suit of cits from Jack.

We have had no sunlight today -- only twilight which turns to darkness at three o’clock in the afternoon. The country is flat and everything is covered with ice and snow. There are many frozen streams and evergreens are abundant.

Thursday, December 13 th -- Up this morning about nine o’clock. Dressed by electric light. Breakfast in diner. Saw the sun rise at exactly ten o’clock. The evergreens, covered with ice crystals and snow, are marvelous in their beauty, with the sun, low on the horizon, in the background.

We had a good breakfast of fruit, veal cutlet, potatoes and coffee. Bread cards are in use and no bread can be obtained without these cards. Only one cup of coffee is allowed and about three quarters of a teaspoon of sugar. Everybody seems to be very pleasant and we are enjoying the trip. This seems to be a dairy and fish country.

There are a number of Germans on the train and one Austrian, who is being exchanged by the Russians.

The sun set about 12 to 12:30. At 2:30 it was necessary to have lights in the train, and darkness is upon us now -- 3:30 P.M.

At Torneo we were met by the American Consul and by him piloted through the maze of troubles in passing the border (into Sweden). We had something to eat in the railroad station while waiting for him to perform some of these duties for us. You serve yourself from a general table and then sit down at a smaller table to eat. The American Consul was very thorough, smooth and quiet and extremely efficient and we got through what we thought would be trouble without difficulty or excitement. We went over to identify our baggage and got it through without the formality of having it opened, due to the fact that we are both traveling as Diplomatic Couriers. Our drowsky sleigh was waiting for us, so we were off across the frozen Torneo River for the other side -- being the first to cross the border. The Bridge is not being used at this time and over the ice we went at a pretty rapid gait, into what looked like no-man’s land, as it was now thoroughly dark. We boarded the train at Haparanda, which is the Swedish town across the Torneo River and started our journey to Stockholm.

We are due to arrive at Stockholm tomorrow morning and hope to leave for Christiania tomorrow night.

Friday, December 14 th -- Sun rose today about 8:30 A.M. Seems more natural. Due at Stockholm at noon. It is much warmer this morning and there is not so much ice and snow.

Later -- Arrived at Stockholm about noon. Took taxi to American Consulate, then went to the Bank, thence to Cook’s Ticket Agency and then to the Railroad Station. From there to the Continental Hotel for something to eat. We had a typical Swedish dinner. Several small dishes as an appetizer, then reindeer meat, potato salad, beer, and for dessert preserves (the first time I have ever eaten preserves as a dessert). After dinner, we proceeded to the Consulate again and then to a cabaret; thence to the station and left at 8:30 for Christiania, Norway.

The sun set today about 3:30 P.M. Stockholm is a splendid looking city, although we did not have time to see much of it. While we were able to get as much to eat here as we wished, we had to pay a high price and everyone is complaining of shortage of food and other commodities. For some very poor apples we paid eleven cents and twelve cents each. Sugar is short, also butter. There is no white bread. I was told that prices on practically everything had advanced about three hundred percent. One Swede said “We have sent too much food stuff to Germany.” We saw, of course, among other fine buildings, the King’s Palace.

Tonight we will have to sit up because we could not secure sleeping car accommodations so quickly.

Saturday, December 15 th -- Everything is snow and ice, as we are again bound in a somewhat northerly direction. There are many beautiful scenes and boys and girls skating and skiing and sleighing. We are told that Norway has plenty of foodstuffs but may soon run short. We had white bread for breakfast this morning. No bread cards necessary. Slept well last night in spite of the fact that we had to sit up. Was in a compartment with four other men. The seats were well upholstered and comfortable. Due at Christiania at 1:30 and hope to leave for Bergen at 9:00 P.M.

Later -- Arrived at Christiania about 2:00 P.M. Had a very good lunch at the station and then went to a nearby hotel, washed up and went out to see the town.

This is real civilization -- the first I’ve seen in many a long day.

Crowded streets, well dressed people, well-stocked stores, splendid buildings and Christmas shopping going on. After buying a shirt, several collars and handkerchiefs, we dropped in [on] one of the eating places. We could not decipher the menu and thought we were ordering steak, and, lo and behold, bacon and eggs were produced by the young bar maid. It was very good, however. In the evening we went to see a vaudeville show. It was a drinking place with tables and chairs instead of the usual theatre seats. Much to my surprise and delight, we heard and saw several American actors and actresses and one “dyed in the wool” ‘nigger’.iii The American numbers were very good, as were also two children in different acts. We returned to the hotel about 11:15 P.M., packed up and set the alarm clock for 6:10 in the morning.

Sunday, December 16 th -- Left Christiania 8:34 A.M., one hour late, for Bergen, where we are due about 9:30 P.M. It is now 2:30 P.M. and we are passing a small stream, which is not frozen over, owing to its swiftness. The water is not deep, giving the stream a deep purple and rich green color, with streaks of ice here and there. We have been passing through small mountains for the past four hours and the scenery is beyond my description. The land of the fairies and the birthplace of Santa Claus is not at all disappointing. It is living up to its reputation.

The sun set at 3:30 P.M. and it was dark at 4:30 P.M. At 3:30 P.M. here it is about 10:00 A.M, the same day at home.

The Food Minister of Norway is in our compartment, having been dismissed by his Government. There is a good cartoon in the paper showing him as a Norway King with a Shield, and upon the latter is written “I have done what can be done.”

Arrived at Bergen at 10:30 P.M. Went direct to Hotel Norge and telephoned the British Consul in order that we might leave on the first Courier ship for England. We have a dandy room but not with bath, as there were none obtainable. Room costs us eighteen kronar daily, or about $6.30, without meals. To bed about midnight.

Monday, December 17 th -- Went to the British Consul this morning and secured places on the next boat, which will leave probably in a day or so. Then we called on the American Consul, Mr. Waterman, who took us to his Club and opened a bottle of Scotch, which can not be bought here. It was exceptionally good. We remained there for about an hour and then went out shopping. I bought some of the Norwegian

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jewelry for souvenirs for the folks at home. Thence to the Hotel Norge for dinner, after which I repacked everything for the trip to England and home, while Jack wrote a few letters.

Bergen is a very fascinating city of about ninety thousand people. Most of the buildings are small. Snow covers everything. There is a very high hill, almost a mountain, within four blocks of he hotel, with a counter balance car line going up and which is lighted up at dark. This, with the sprinkling of lights in the small houses scattered over the hillside, makes it very picturesque.

Bergen is built in a valley, surrounded by hills and part of the city is built on the slopes of these hills. The railroad enters the city through a gorge or valley between the hills.

Tuesday, December 18th -- Reported to the British Consul this morning. Nothing doing. Then to the Railroad Station for breakfast, thence to the American Consulate; Mr. Waterman and a Mr. Carpenter took us to the Club for dinner and then I went to an American dentist, whose services I have been needing for some time. I find that everywhere in Europe, it is openly granted that America furnishes the best trained dentists in the world.

Later we went to the small, but cozy apartment of Waterman for a cold supper with wine.

Today it has rained nearly all day long and under foot it was so slushy that it was like wading through a small stream. Our American friends advise us this is the kind of weather they are accustomed to in Bergen. Waterman says that since August they have had only eleven clear days. This is not true, however, throughout Norway.

Wednesday, December 19 th -- To the British Consulate first. Our passports with baggage checks were given to us this morning and we may get away tomorrow, or Friday. Returned to the hotel to keep out of the slush. Not raining today but it is warm and everything is terribly slushy. We have invited Waterman and Carpenter to dinner about 2:30 at the hotel.

Much to my surprise I find that Preserve Omelettes (egg and preserves) are eaten here only as a dessert -- I startled our waitress the first morning by ordering such a dish for breakfast.

I am enjoying myself and actually putting on weight. If I am not careful, I will be a fat man upon my arrival home.

We received word tonight confidentially that the boat would

arrive in the morning and leave in the afternoon.

I find that I was mistaken about bread cards in Norway. No cards are necessary at restaurants and hotels, but each individual has to have a card and the hotels and restaurants are supplied on a percentage (60%) of consumption the previous year.

Thursday, December 20 th -- Left Bergen via Steamship Vulture about 3:00 P.M. Jack went to bed immediately to avoid being seasick, but not before reserving a table for both of us in his name. Poor Jack did not eat with us during the trip, necessitating my impersonating him in order to hold the table. We had an American First Sergeant of Marines with us, who is Diplomatic Courier, from London to Jassy and return. He was also uncomfortable, but stuck it out. I fortunately escaped, although the North Sea usually brings on seasickness -- the water being very choppy.

A few days ago, on this same route, six ships were sunk by the Germans.

Friday, December 21 st -- Arrived at Aberdeen, Scotland, about 4:00 P.M. and stopped at the Palace Hotel. Met a chap named Coates, American representative of some commercial house. He, Jack and I went to a show. To bed about midnight with call for 5:15 A.M. so as to catch the early morning train to London.

Aberdeen has been raided several times by Zeppelins. We were escorted into port by two British destroyers.

Weighed tonight on “Honest to God, good, true scales” and tipped them at 153 pounds, without my overcoat. I weighed about 135 pounds when I left Jassy, Roumania -- normal weight being 145 to 148.

Saturday, December 22 nd -- Up this morning at 5:15. Breakfast of one egg, buttered bread, tea without sugar. Left for London at 6:10 A.M., passing through Scotland. The portion through which we passed was quite hilly. Flock after flock of sheep were grazing where snow did not cover the fields and hills. Trees seem to be scarce. We passed many large industrial plants of various kinds and in many of them could hear the noise of the riveting machines going at a lively clip. We got off at one station for a cup of coffee and at another secured a small basket of food for each of us -- bread, butter, ham with mustard. All diners have been taken off of English trains due to the war. Passed the boundary between Scotland and England about 1:30 P.M. The scenery in England is beautiful; still very hilly.

Arrived at London at 10:00 P.M. Proceeded to the Strand Palace Hotel.

Monday, December 24 th -- I made myself rather scarce yesterday, as I had on Jack’s suit, which did not fit me, and a khaki shirt. I bought a suit of clothes today, also shirts, collars and a hat. In rambling around, we walked down the streets we have often read about -- the Strand, Piccadilly, Fleet, Downing, etc. Saw Parliament House and the Westminster Abbey.

Tuesday, December 25 th -- It’s nice to be in London, but there is only one place in the world fit for a man to be on Christmas Day and that place is “Home”.

Up about 10:00 A.M. Went to a show “Here and There” this afternoon. Had a splendid Christmas Dinner at the hotel in the Grill Room. Supper at a French Restaurant. Read a book this evening.

Wednesday, December 26 th -- Walked around a bit today. Crossed the famous London Bridge, Tower Bridge, visited the historical London Tower and went through this most interesting place thoroughly, also a portion of the slums of London. Saw famous old St. Paul’s Cathedral, but did not enter. We did go inside of the Westminster Abbey Sunday. Will not enter into description of these places, which are more or less familiar to everyone. I walked through St. James Garden, saw Buckingham Palace, the muchly written about Charing Cross Station, Hyde Park, Daly’s and other famous theatres, etc., etc. I also weighed today and tipped the scales at an even eleven stones. A stone is fourteen pounds, so my weight is 154 pounds. Going up!

I called at the American Military Headquarters to see if I could get any information about Jim and Herbert (my brothers) being in France or England, but could get no satisfaction, except that only Aviation men were in England. iv

The Englishmen with whom I have talked are without exception highly pleased that America is in the war and unhesitatingly stated that America would win the war for the Allies -- they are expecting big things of America and expecting it with every confidence that the job will be done thoroughly. I had understood that England was prone to give us no credit for the big things to be accomplished -- that we were in it simply for the money end, but I found in London a very different feeling altogether. They seem now to realize the bigness of America

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and they seem very proud and happy that America is in the fight and that Englishmen and Americans will fight side by side for a common cause.

London is truly a wonderful city, with great buildings, which were apparently built regardless of expense as a monument to architecture and for posterity to dream over.

A very large percentage of the people are in uniform, but many in citizens’ clothes. There are also many young ladies in military uniforms, serving their Country in some capacity or other.

The city is comparatively dark at night, no lights being shown that can be seen from the air. The street lights have shades over them and are hung very low, and such stores as are open have very dim lights.

The streets are crowded both day and night and people are bustling about as in New York. The saloons, much to my surprise, are open on Sundays as well as week days.

The Strand is the main thoroughfare, said to be the longest street in the world. The very large automobile buses (double deckers, similar to Fifth Avenue buses) are continually on the go. Taxis are very numerous and cheap.

Friday, December 28 th -- Nothing startling going on. I visited the court rooms, including the Highest Court in England, where Sir Roger Casement was recently tried and convicted by the Lord Chief Justice. This building has nearly three hundred offices and court rooms.

Went to see “Beauty Spot” at the Gaiety Theatre tonight. Prices terribly high and the actors and actresses, with few exceptions, indifferent in their acting --- lacked pep (this word ‘pep’ seems to be thoroughly American, not only in manufacture but in execution as well). There were several very beautiful girls on the stage, but they seem to have no vivacity and did not seem as much at home on the stage as our American actors and actresses. I have been to see about half a dozen good shows so far.

December 29 th to January 4 th -- Have simply been killing time sight-seeing and at the Strand Palace Hotel. Will leave for Liverpool today at 9:15 A.M. This is a very fast train and equipment good. Instead of entering at the end of the car, one enters (a private entrance) from the side immediately into his compartment. Arrived Liverpool about 1:30 P.M. We saw the converted (to American) German steamship

“Vaterland” at Liverpool, now in our service, after her first trip across the Atlantic. We are to sail by the American Line Steamer St. Louis. Went aboard at 3:00 P.M. Jack and I have room 57 together -- it is fair. The St. Louis does not compare in any way with the Empress of Russia. We moved out into the harbor and stopped.

Saturday, January 5 th -- Upon arising this morning we find we are still in Liverpool harbor. During the day we made another start.

Sunday, January 6 th -- This morning we were still going ahead, but upon inquiry found that we had started up the north coast of Ireland and Government tugs had ordered us back at full speed, as submarines were awaiting us. We are now near Belfast, Ireland, but understand we will leave either during the night or at 7:00 A.M. tomorrow.

We have all been assigned to our life boats. I am in No. 3. We had to report in the Dining Room, men, women and children, with life preservers on, and then every one actually went to his life boat. Upon four blasts of the whistle, everyone is to be in his place at the life boat. If any of our guns are firing (we have five), we are to immediately don preservers and report to the dining room, ready for an emergency. There are very few women aboard, about seven, and five or six children; the balance being naval officers, army and Red Cross officers. The officers of the American Destroyer Jacob Jones, sunk about a month ago on the Irish coast, are aboard ship and three of them sit at the same table with me. Also at our table is a young Belgian Count, who is only nineteen but has been at the front for three years. He is now on leave after having been in the hospital and is going to spend his leave in America.

No messages are accepted from passengers for transmission by wireless.

So far our dinner table of six is very jovial. Of course, no one is suffering from Mal de mer, but tomorrow or next day may tell a different tale. At present, we simply pass away the time as best we can, playing cards, checkers, reading, walking, eating and sleeping. No wonder I am putting on flesh! There is no gymnasium aboard ship, no music of dancing, so it will be really a hard trip with so little to occupy one’s time.

There is no lack of food. Plenty of everything. One would not know a great war was going on so far as food is concerned. Plenty of white bread, butter, sugar, and such things, the lack of which has heretofore been so apparent.

We can, of course, today see the wonderful “Emerald Isle”, and it looks as romantic as one could wish. While we are practically in the harbor of Belfast, no one is allowed ashore. Officially, we are many miles at sea, when, as a matter of fact, we are cozy and safe in harbor, awaiting the work of mine sweepers and an opportunity to get to sea. While it is dangerous going via the Atlantic, from what has been happening in Russia since I left, it seems that, after all, the Atlantic is really the safest route we could have taken.

Monday, January 7 th -- We again started early this morning, taking route between Ireland and Scotland. The sea is very rough and many are ill. Jack very bravely ate three meals and lost them all. We must be in a late equinoxal storm for the sea is too rough to think of going on deck. One of our gunners was washed overboard this afternoon. He was at his post looking for submarines, when a great volume of green sea struck him -- he saw it coming and tried to make the gang-way leading to the inside, but missed and went overboard. The ship returned on its course, but could not find him. The poor fellow did not have on a life belt, and besides it is so cold and the water so terribly rough that he probably only lasted a few seconds. The fact that one of our boys had gone overboard threw a damper over the entire ship for some time.

In one respect the storm is a blessing, for submarines can’t possibly operate in this sea.

Only four of us showed up at our table for dinner -- three naval officers and I.

Had an amusing incident late today. I was sitting in a chair at the head of the companion way, when the ship gave a heavy side roll and then a plunge. I felt my chair slipping and before I knew what was happening I was headed down the companion way. It is a common sight to see some one suddenly run across the width of the entire ship and bang up against the side. Pretty rough, but safe from the submarines.

Tuesday, January 8 th -- Had a good, warm, salt water bath this morning, but much to my surprise there were no facilities for rinsing off in fresh water. Not quite so rough this morning.

Wednesday, January 9 th -- Beautiful day. Up about 9:00 A.M. Breakfast in room. Had long walks on deck.

Friday, January 11 th -- Simply trying to pass away the time. We are

favored by having a passenger who plays and sings very well. He gives us a concert nearly every night after dinner. Sea is again very rough.

Saturday, January 12 th -- Up this morning about nine o’clock. Breakfast in dining room. The ship is pitching to beat the band this morning. There is a very long swell and cross sea with it. Had a long walk on deck -- port side. As long as I am not suffering from sea //sickness, I can enjoy watching the ship rise high on the crest of a wave and then take a beautiful nose dive and see the water splash over the bow. At one minute the water seems forty or fifty feet away -- and the next it is right on you.

Sunday, January 13 th -- Church services this morning by the Purser. Sea pretty rough today. I walked the deck in the morning and was soaked to the skin -- had to put on my uniform. There was a lecture after dinner, but I did not attend.

About midnight Lieutenant Scott and I took a walk on deck. The ship was plunging terribly, but our sea legs were in very good shape and we were having a very enjoyable time, drinking in the sea air, when suddenly the ship made a deep nose dive and Scott immediately said he didn’t like it and to grab the rail next to the cabins. In a few seconds a perfect deluge of water came rushing down the deck from forward. Even after the bow went down again, the water came rushing down the deck, and for fear we might be caught off of our guard, we went inside and to our berths.

Monday, January 14 th -- We are all very busy today arranging for our farewell dinner.

About 7:30 P.M. we gathered in one of the cabins and later went in to dinner. Our steward had everything in readiness for us -- a specially printed menu card with the names of all of our party was at each plate.v Major Cunningham, U.S.M.F.C., had the seat of honor. Others attending the dinner were --

Lieut. Scott, U.S.N.Lieut. Richards, U.S.N.Lieut. Gates, U.S.N.Count Bouissert, Belgian ArtilleryJ. A. Embrey, American Vice-ConsulLieut. Harriman, A.R.C.And the writer.

We had a most enjoyable time.

v

Tuesday, January 15 th -- The Statue of Liberty was a grand sight. The harbor was frozen up, but we finally docked and went ashore. I took care of our Belgian friend, in fact, we traveled together as far as Washington; from which place, after reporting to the Red Cross headquarters, I took the first train Home!

I returned to Washington in a few days and am now awaiting my call to go to the Massachusetts Tech., at Boston, as I am now regularly enlisted as a Pilot in the Naval Aviation Reserve.