WEAVES ,THEIR VARIATIONS, PROPERTIES & THEIR APPLICATIONSBy: Madhu Kumari

Tanvi Mishra

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to express our thanks to Ms. Yashoda Kumari for her guidance and help. Furthermore we are grateful to the college Resource Centre which provided us with the necessary material for the presentation. Finally we would like to thank our classmates for their patience and support.

DEFINITION

Weaving : The interlacing of two sets of yarns, warp and weft, at right angles.

Warp yarns are those which lie lengthwise & Weft yarns lie widthwise of the selvage

REPRESENTATION OF WEAVES

Draft: Represents the number of harnesses used in the making ofthe weave.

Peg Plan: Indicates the repetitive pattern that occurs at intervals in the weave.

WEAVES CLASSIFICATION

Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave

Basic Weaves

Basket Weave

Rib Weave

2×24×4

CrosswiseVertical

Right HandLeft Hand

Warp FacedFilling Faced

BrokenReverse

Warp Faced

Filling Faced

PLAIN WEAVE

Simplest and Tightest method of interlacing. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and

under each weft. Interlacing is opposite in each neighboring

cells. The repeat is over two ends and two picks. Opposite sides of the fabric are the same. Yields the strongest fabric. Requires only two harnesses. Examples : Batiste, Cambric, Donegal, Fresco, Honan,

Muslin, Taffeta, Voile.

Batiste Muslin

Plain Weave

Examples of Plain Weave

Cambric

VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE Rib Weave: surface shows raised lines or ridges. Filling yarns are thicker than warp yarns. Abrades quickly, unbalanced fabric

-Warp Rib: runs across the fabric width, high density of warp ends, finer warp yarn covers fabric surface. Commercial Styles: ottoman, rib,

bengaline ,broad cloth, taffeta, faille and poplin

-Weft Rib: runs through the length of the cloth, high weft density, not a very common fabric.

Rib Weave

Ottoman

Example of Rib Weave

VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE (CONTD..)

Basket Weave: groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn.

Examples:- Monk’s cloth, Hopsacking, Oxford cloth.

2×2 basket weave is the most common Decorative, coarse, porous, snags easily,

poor shape retention, flat weave effect Not durable and easily shrink Difficult to sew

Basket Weave

Hopsack

Example of Basket Weave

2×2

4×4

1×2

TWILL WEAVE

Created by floats between interlacing points which move one cell upwards/downwards on adjacent threads.

Produces diagonal lines( Z or S) on the fabric. On the back twill direction is the opposite. Smallest repeat size: 3 warp & 3 weft Two Types : Warp Faced & Weft Faced. Can be made soft or loose and twill lines can

be made more prominent . Examples : cavalry, denim, diagonal, drill,

gaberdine, serge, tweed, tricotine, whipcord.

Twill Weave

Examples of Twill Weave

TweedCavalry

VARIATIONS OF TWILL WEAVE

Diagonals: larger twills with two or more twill lines of different width. Can be warp faced, weft faced or balanced.

Commercial Names: Diagonals and Cavalry. Broad Twills: show a very broad twill line,

warp floats usually cover more than two cells and weft floats at least two. Can be balanced/unbalanced.

Balanced Twills: warp and weft floats are of equal sizes, face and back are similar with opposite twill directions.

Commercial Names: Twill , sheeting

DEVELOPMENT OF TWILL WEAVES

Steep Twill: equal density of warp and weft, twills display a twill line of about 45°.

Flattened Twill: usually weft faced which means that twill line is formed by the weft yarn.

Herringbone: made by reversing the direction of the twill at regular intervals.

Waved Twill: by changing the direction of the twill line at regular interval a wave or zigzag effect can be created.

Broken Twill: are formed by reversing the pattern part way through the repeat.

Herringbone

Broken Twill

Waved Twill

Steep Twill

Double/Cavalry Twill

Corkscrew Twill

Right-hand Twill (Mock Up)

Left Hand Twill Mock Up

75° : 4 Filling Yarns Higher76° : 3 Filling Yarns Higher63° : 2 Filling Yarns Higher45° : 1 Filling Yarns Higher27° : 2 Filling Yarns Higher26° : 3 Filling Yarns Higher15° : 4 Filling Yarns Higher

SATIN/SATEEN WEAVE

Uniform distribution of the interlacing which are never adjacent to one another.

Repeats over at least 5 ends and 5 picks. But the warp end interlace only once per

repeat which results in Long Floats. Face and the Back look different. Satins are Warp/Weft Faced, Sateen is Weft

faced. Smooth, Uniform and Lustrous. Commercial Names: Atlas, duchesse,

doeskin, sateen, satin, venetian.

Satin Weave

Sateen Weave

Examples of Satin/Sateen

Duchesse

Atlas

Satin

Venetian

DEVELOPMENTS OF SATIN WEAVE

Few variations because interlacing must not be allowed to come close together

Patterning is achieved by arranging for interchanging areas of sateen & satin on a Plain/Twill background.

Examples : Satin Stripe, Damask, Faconne, Figured Jacquard, Chiffon with Satin Stripes , Satin Faconne.

Developments of Satin Weave

Satin Stripes

Damask

Figured Jacquard

SPECIAL WEAVES CLASSIFICATION

Complex Or Novelty Weaves

Dobby Weave

Piqué/Cord Weave

Figure Weave

Jacquard Weave

Double Cloth Weave

Leno Weave

Thermo Weave

Gauze Weave

French Back

Double Back

Double Faced

Swivel Weave

Spot Weave

Lappet Weave

DOUBLE CLOTH

A single ply fabric made by two sets of filling and one set of warp yarn or two set of warp and one set of filling yarn.

DOBBY WEAVE

A flat or raised, small floral, dotted or geometricweave produced with a dobbyattachment .

Dull and shiny surface effects.

Patterns are referred to as birdseye, nailhead, dots, squares, diamonds, honeycomb

DOUBLE FACED CLOTH

A woven or knitted fabric constructed with more than one set of warp & filling yarns, producing two fabrics with two distinct faces.

FIGURE WEAVE

Ornamental embroidered effects are produced by adding additional warp/filling yarns at regular intervals during weaving.

LAPPET WEAVE

A figure/embroidery weave design produced by a needle on the loom, which produces an additional plain woven end into the plain woven background

SPOT/DOT/CLIPPED SPOT WEAVE

Method of producing decorative designs & patterns on the entire width/length of the fabric in predetermined areas.

SWIVEL WEAVE

A method of producing decorative dots, circles or squares on the surface of the fabric.

JACQUARD WEAVE

Comprises of complicated patterns. Patterns can incorporate any of the three weaves or their combinations.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Clothing Technology : Europa Lehr-Mittal Fabric Science: Puzzartto Understanding Fabrics

Pictures: Google, Understanding Fabrics

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