Every dollar helps!

These manuals are the culmination of more then 10 years of designand publication and formally sold for $10.00 each. With 54 different

manuals available, that’s a $540.00 value.

Now, due to the worldwide economic collapse, they are my gift to you.My hope is that you will enjoy these great little airplanes as much as I

have enjoyed designing them for you.

You may build as many planes as you like.Sell your planes, or give them away.

Tell ALL your airplane loving friends to come to the site and get asmany of the manuals as they like.

If you enjoy these planes, please help to ensure this site stays on-lineand these airplane manuals remain available for all to enjoy. Any

amount you donate is greatly appreciated.

May God bless you and keep you safe.

Thank You & Enjoy!Wayne

www.bcair.comCopyright © 2007 B. C. Air OriginalsTOP SECRET

Step By Step Construction Plans.27 Pages With Over 100 Full Color Photos showing how to build the

Can be made from most 12or 16 oz Beverage Cans.

Wingspan: 17”Length: 17”Height: 5”Warhawk

CurtissP-40

Welcome to the B. C. Air Originals Squadron.

This booklet contains complete step by step instructions for building the B. C. AirOriginals P-40 Warhawk. Before you start building your first plane it is sug-gested that you review the entire set of plan directions. Once you have previewedthe construction steps you should start collecting the cans that you want to use tomake your first plane. These plans are designed to be used with any 12 oz. or 16 oz.beverage can. Always use clean, unscratched and undented cans for the best lookingplanes.

Since the building of these planes requires the cutting of cans and the use of sharptools, CHILDREN SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT THE CONSTRUCTION OFTHESE PLANES WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION AND GUIDANCE.CONSUMER ACCEPTS ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY IN-CURRED IN THE BUILDING OF THESE PLANES.

It is not necessary to follow all the building steps in the order presented. Such as, ifyou want to make the Engine, or the Wheels first, you can do that and then set themaside until you need them. However, until you understand the construction of theseplanes, it may be easier to follow the steps in the order listed. Your very first stepshould be to make a copy of all the templates. All templates are drawn to scale.Using a sheet of mylar (Clear Plastic) will enable you to re-use your templates againand again. There is no limit to the number of planes you can build with these plans.

We, at B. C. Air Originals, will make every effort to assist you in answering anyquestions you may have about the construction of these planes. Please feel free tocontact us ANY TIME at command@bcairoriginals.com.

Thank you for your interest in the B. C. Air Originals and have FUN!

D. P. (Wayne) Mathis

When you print your manuals be sure that your printer is set on it’s MAXprinting area to ensure that all the templates print out to the correct size.The standard 12 oz Can, here in the US, measures 2 1/2" in diameter. If theCans you’re using to make your plane are smaller or larger, then here’swhat you do..... Measure the diameter of your Can and find what percent-age of 2 1/2" it is.... I.e. If your Can measures only 2 1/4" (in diameter)then 2 1/4" is = to 90% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all the templatesat 90% instead of at 100%. If your Can measures 3" (in diameter) then 3"is = to 120% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all of the templates at 120%.etc.Some of these models were originally designed in 1984. Since then thebuilding techniques of these planes has changed over time. I.e. many of theplanes no longer require the use of the wooden former “F-1 & F-2”. Wesimply glue the “B-2’s” onto the BACK (BOTTOM) of the Can “B-1” oruse corrugated cardboard in place of the wood. (See http://www.bcair.com/BT/nwf1.htm and http://www.bcair.com/BT/nf1.htm )Once you’ve reviewed your manual and you’re ready to start your firstplane, go here > http://www.bcair.com/BT/ < and look over the Builder’sTips. These are building tips sent in from builders all over the world. Theywill help you to make these planes easier and faster. Bookmark this page asit is NOT accessible from the main web site.You can obtain the plastic props used on these planes from yourlocal Hobby Shop or here’s where I get my props on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=QBC&V=MAS <.Here’s where I get my Wooden Propellers on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch<Any 5-7" prop, with any pitch, will work on these planes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch

The following is a list of tools and materials I use to build these planes.You may find that you do not need all of the tools that I use.Use whatever works best for you.

Small hammer of some kind.Pliers.Flat head screw driver.Hand stapler.Snap (carpet) stapler.Push Pin.Hot glue gun.Awl (old screw driver sharpened to a point).Wire cutter.X-acto knife (hobby knife) (box opener).Scissors & Can Opener.Ruler (straight edge).Felt tip pen (any color).Needle nose pliers.Open end wrench (to fitwhatever size nuts you’ll use).Hand drill (1/4” works fine).Hole saw (2 different sizes - 2 3/4” & 1 5/8”).

Materials -

Aluminum Cans (beer, pop, soda, juice, etc) any 12 oz. size will work.Bottle caps.Corrugated Cardboard. Tape (any kind) & Glue (2-Part Epoxy works best).Mylar (Clear plastic).Copper Coated Welding Rod, Music Wire or any other straight wire .

(2 sizes - 1/16” & 3/32”)Hazel Nuts (Acorn Nuts, Cap Nuts, Toothpaste Caps).Screws, Nuts and Bolts.Wire clip (speed nut).

2

Using two hole saws (the larger one is 2 3/4” and the smaller one is 1 5/8”) cut twocircles from any kind of wood that is 3/4” thick. Soft Pine like that used to makewooden pallets works best. These two wooden circles will now become F-1 & F-2.

F-1 F-1F-2 F-2

Using a wood rasp (or similar tool) taper both F-1 & F-2 as shown above. The“Perfect” F-1 and F-2 would have the dimensions shown at left. But they don’thave to be perfect as long as F-1 DOES NOT EXCEED 2 1/2” in diameter. WorkF-1 down to a size (approx. a little less than 2 1/2” in diameter) that will allow it(once wrapped with can B-2C Step # 4 & # 5) to fit inside Can B-1 (Step # 6).

NOTE: You can also use a jigsaw or any other method at your disposalto obtain F-1 & F-2 as long as you end up with the same dimensions.

Cutting Cans

The building of these planes requires that both the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cansbe cut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown above. TheDremal® is secured to a board with the use of a hose clamp. Two guide rails are used tocradle the can. A cutting wheel is used to cut the Bottom of the can off first, and then theTop is cut off. Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Topsand Bottoms of the cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.

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The Taper is at 10°

Cutting CansThe building of these planes requires that the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans becut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown below.

SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT

What I’ve done here is taken a piece ofboard wood (aprox 12” x 15” x 3/4”) and toit I’ve attached (screw or glue) Two Blocksof wood (2” x 2” x 5”) and Two Rails ofwood (1” x 1” x 10”)

Using a Hose Clamp, I’ve secured myDremal® Tool to the board. The twoguide rails are used to cradle the can.

A cutting wheel is used to cut theBottom and the Top off the Cans.

Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops and Bottoms ofthe cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE HAND & EYE GEAR WHEN CUTTING CANS!

In ALL cases, cutthe Bottom off theCan FIRST, thencut the Top off.Get as much of theCan as possible.

Another Way Of Cutting Cans

Once you’ve selected which Cans your plane will be made out of, take one Can and hold it firmly atit’s bottom. Using your wire snips, cut through the ring at the top of the Can.

Now grab the ring with your wire snips and PULL the top off the Can. The top will normally tare offright where the Can begins to taper inward to the ring.

Continue PULLING until the top of the Can comes off. Then cut down the side of the Can with yourscissors. Next use a smaller scissor to cut the bottom off the Can.

Use a straight edge, or a papercutter to trim the edges smooth.

Trim Can to 3 5/8” x 8 1/4”

SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT

Remove the Pull Tab from one of the Cans you’regoing to use to make your plane and cut the bottomoff. If you’re using 16 oz Cans cut the Can down to4 3/8” as shown here.

Put a 3/32” hole in the center of the littlebutton, used to hold the pull tab in place,on the top of the Can. This is hole “C”.

This Can will become B-1.

Take another Can and cut it 3 7/8” down fromthe top of the Can as shown here. This Can willbecome B-3.

Using a Can opener, cut the top out of B-3.

Remove the Pull Tabs and cutthe tops and bottoms off 13additional Cans and open themup as shown here. If you’reusing 16 oz Cans you’ll need tocut ONE Can down to 3 5/8” inheight.

(You can discard the tops &bottoms.)

3 7/8”

STEP # 1

STEP # 2

STEP # 3

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Set this Can aside for now it will be used as theEngine Cowling (EC) later on in Step # 32. (EC)

4 3/8”

3 5/8”

Take the 3 5/8” Can you opened up inStep # 3 and cut it as shown here. Thiswill become Can B-2C.B-2C

Cut Off & Discard.

1 3/8”

STEP # 4

STEP # 5

STEP # 6

3 5/8”

Staple F-1 & F-2 toB-2C as shown.

THIS WILL NOWBECOME B-2

F-1

F-1

F-1

F-1

F-2

F-2

F-2

F-2

F-2B-2C

B-2C B-2 B-2

B-2C

B-2 B-1

B-2 B-2

B-1 B-1

STAPLE

STAPLE

Cut Offexcess Can

Insert B-2 into B-1 and securewith 3 staples as shown here.

Staples

SIDE VIEW

TOPVIEW

BOTTOM VIEW

Staple

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BOTTOM CENTER OF CAN B-1

To F

RO

NT

of

Plan

e

TEMPLATE # 1

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Trace Template # 1 onto a piece of mylar.

STEP # 7

B-1 B-2

.

A

A

B

B

1

2

3 5

4 6

This

edg

e flu

sh w

ith b

ack

of B

-1

SLITS

SLITS

Holes

Holes

WH

EN P

RIN

TIN

G O

UT

THIS

TEM

PLAT

E X

TO

X (&

Y T

O Y

) MU

ST M

EASU

RE

8 1/

4”.

X

XY

Y

Using your Push Pins, make holes “A” & “B”

STEP # 8 Tape Template # 1 into a cylinder and slide it onto B-1 as shown.

Edge of Template meets back edge of B-1. Bottom Center of Plane.

A

A

B

B

Using your x-acto knife make SLITS# 1, through # 6 where indicated.Remove Template # 1 from B-1 andenlarge holes “A” & “B” to 3/32”.

B-1B-2

B-1Top Center of Plane.

STEP # 9

1 1/2”

Take Two pieces of 3/32” Rod 15 1/2” long and bend as shown. These willbecome the Wing Spars (WS).

7 3/4”7 3/4”

1234

56

STEP # 10

1”

2 5/8”

Cut TWO pieces of corrugated cardboard as shown below.

<---------- Corrugation Runs this way --------->

STEP # 11 Insert the Two WS (Step # 9) through Holes A & B in B-1 and tape the Twopieces of cardboard, WCB, (from Step # 10) to them as shown below.

B-1

B-2

Forward WS

Aft WS

AA

BB

B-1

STEP # 12

Glue or tape CBAF ON TOP of the Wing Cardboard (WCB) as shown below.

7 1/4”

Cardboard should extend atleast 1/2” beyond WS.Cardboard should extend

at least 1/2” beyond WS.

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CBAF

WCB

WCB WCB

CBAF CBAFWCB WCB

STEP # 13

Put Two strips of double sided tape on the UNDER SIDE of the wing.Stick one of the Cans that you opened up in Step # 3 to the Under side of the wing.

Double Sided Tape

STEP # 14Staples

Double Sided Tape1234567890123456789012345678901212345123456789012345678901234567890121234512345678901234567890123456789012123451234567890123456789012345678901212345

123456789012345678901234567890121234567891234567890123456789012345678901212345678912345678901234567890123456789012123456789123456789012345678901234567890121234567891234567890123456789012345678901212345678912345678901234567890123456789012123456789

12345678901234567890123456789012123456789123456789012345678901234567890121234567891234567890123456789012345678901212345678912345678901234567890123456789012123456789123456789012345678901234567890121234567891234567890123456789012345678901212345678912345678901234567890123456789012123456789

Put One strip of double sided tapeon the TOP SIDE of the wing andwrap one of the Cans that you opened up in Step # 3 over the TOP SIDE of thewing as shown here. Secure in place with 4 staples where indicated.

12345678901234567890121234567890123456789012123456789012345678901212345678901234567890121234567890123456789012123456789012345678901212345678901234567890121234567890123456789012

CBAF

WCBFWSAWS(SIDE VIEW OF WING)

1 Can

1 CanNOTE: Top Can overlapsBottom Can by approx. 1/4”.

Bottom Can will be longer thanTop Can. Trim after securing.

Double face tape on Bottomof WCB to hold Can in place.

REPEAT ON OTHER WING.

STEP # 15

Wing using 12 oz Cans (A).

Wing using 16 oz Cans (B).

A

B

If you’re using 12 oz Cans to build your plane, trim the Cans you’ve used tocover the wings according to pattern A, on Template # 2.

If you’re using 16 oz Cans to build your plane, trim the Cans you’ve used tocover the wings according to pattern B, on Template # 2.

If you’re using 12 oz Cans but want the larger wing, you can tape Two Canstogether as in Step # 25. (You will need to add Four more Cans to Step # 3).

STAPLES STAPLES

STAPLESSTAPLES

Template # 2

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TEMPLATE # 3..

TAB B

TAIL CONE

VERTICALSTABILIZER

STEP # 16

TAB A

Inside View Outside View

Cut TWO Templates out of Two Cansyou opened up in Step # 3. Be sure toFLIP the template to get a matchingpattern. Cut TABS “A” & “B” OFFOne of the patterns

STEP # 17Place epoxy or glue on TAB “B” and match up the Two Patterns as shown here. TAB “B”goes on the INSIDE of the Tail Cone. Place a strip of tape across TAB “B” on the INSIDEof the Tail Cone to help secure it in place.

CD

Use your Push Pin and make Holes“C” & “D” in BOTH patterns.

Holes “D”

Holes “C”

VS

STEP # 18

VSCB

VSCB

VSCB

.TEMPLATE # 4

F

E

Cut Template # 4 from a piece of CorrugatedCardboard and, using double sided tape, place inposition between the two Vertical Stabilizer Pat-terns as shown.

<---

- Cor

ruga

tion

Run

s thi

s way

----

>

STEP # 19

Hole “E” is 3/32”Hole “F” is 1/4” and MUST line upwith Hole “D” in VSCB.Holes “C”

Holes “D”

Hole “E”

Hole “F”

Take a piece of 3/32” Rod, 15” long and put ahook at one end of it. This will become thePropeller Shaft (PS). Thread the “hook”through Hole “E” in VSCB as shown here.

STEP # 20Staples

PS

PS

Staple the two Vertical Stabilizer Patternstogether as shown. TAB “A” goes INSIDEthe tail cone.

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<---- Corrugation Runs this way ---->

STEP # 21

Insert PS through the pilot hole in F-2, through the pilot holein F-1 and out Hole “C” in the front of B-1. Draw the tailcone up OVER the back of B-2 and hold in place with a wireclip (speed nut) on PS at Hole “C” as shown here.

B-2

B-1

PS

PS

Wire Clip

STEP # 22

TEMPLATE # 5 TEMPLATE # 6

HSHSCB

Cut FOUR HS (Template # 5) out of Two Cans that you opened up in Step # 3. Be sure to“Flip” the Template over, on Two HS, to get matching patterns.

Cut TWO HSCB (Template # 6) from a piece of Corrugated Cardboard.Be sure to “Flip” the Template over to get a Right & Left Pattern.

STEP # 23

You should now have FOUR HS’sand TWO HSCB.

Using double sided tape, centerand stick One HSCB to the Leftand Right HS BOTTOM Patternas shown.

Place the TOP HS Patterns inposition and secure in place withstaples as shown.

HSCBHSCB

STAPLES

STAPLES

STEP # 24

HS HS

HSHS

HS HS

< >< >

Take TWO pieces of 3/32” Rod, 3”long and insert through Holes “C”& “D” in the Tail Cone. Put someepoxy/glue on the Rod ends andinsert the HS’s onto the Rods asshown. Push the HS’s flush upagainst the Tail Cone.

HS HS

Holes “C”

Holes “D”

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Take 2 cans from Step # 3,and tape them together asshown here.

CanCellophane TapeDouble-Sided Tape

Trace Template # 7 (PBB)onto the two Cans you tapedtogether and cut it out.

STEP # 25

TEMPLATE # 7

PBB

STEP # 26

TAB 7TAB 8

TAB 9TAB 10

TAB 11TAB 12

STEP # 27

Insert Tabs 7 & 8 (on PBB) into Slits5 & 6 (in B-1) and tape the PlaneBackbone (PBB) in place on B-1 &B-2.

Now mark where to make Slits 7, 8, 9& 10 (into which Tabs 9, 10, 11 & 12will go) in B-2. Remove PBB andusing your X-Acto knife make the slitswhere marked.

B-1

STEP # 28

Once you’ve made Slits 7through 10, place the Backbone(PBB) back onto B-1 & B-2inserting the Tabs into theirperspective slits. Securely tape(PBB) into place on both sidesof B-1 & B-2.

Back of (PBB) downagainst the Tail Cone.

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B-2

TAB 7

TAB 9TAB 11

PBB

HS

VS

Working through the hole in thefront of PBB, apply epoxy/glue where PBB meets B-1 &B-2.

B-2 B-1

PBB

Glue on INSIDE

STEP # 29

TAB 3TAB 4

TAB 5TAB 6

TEMPLATE # 8CP

Cut Template # 8 from one of the Cans you opened up in Step # 3. With theSHINNY Side of the Can facing up, insert Tab 3 into Slit # 3, Tab 4 into Slit # 4,Tab 5 into Slit # 5 and Tab 6 into Slit # 6 in B-1. (YES, Tabs 7 & 8 on PBB areALSO in Slits # 5 & # 6). Tape the sides of CP securely to B-1 and workingthrough the hole in the front of CP apply epoxy/glue to the INSIDE of CP wherethe sides meet B-1.

B-1

CP

Glue on INSIDE

CP rests ON TOP of PBB

PBB

B-2

STEP # 30 STEP # 31

Using your needle nose, hold thePS as close as you can to the WC.Now using your thumb against thePS, bend the PS UP 90°.

Now hold the PS with your needlenose, as shown, and again usingyour thumb against the PS, bendthe PS Back FORWARD. The PSshould look something like thiswhen finished.

APPROX 3/8”

APPROX 1/4”

PS

PS

PS

B-1

B-1

B-1 B-1

Take Two Bottle Caps and put a 3/32”hole in the center of each Cap.

Glue the Two Bottle Caps together tomake One “Wheel”. Next make SEVENwheels.

Put some epoxy/glue of PS and slideFive Wheels (One At A Time) ontoPS. ADD 1/2 of a Wheel (One Cap)to the end of the string of Wheelsand epoxy/glue in place.

Five Wheels

1/2 of a Wheel (One Cap)

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STEP # 32 Take Can B-3, EC, (from Step # 2) and using your fingers, pull it into an Ovalas shown here. Install EC over the engine and onto the front of B-1. Note thatthe Top of EC is level with the Top of B-1 and the bottom of EC slants slightlydownward.

EC B-1

ECB-1

TEMPLATE # 9CPWS

CPWS CP

CP

STEP # 33 Cut Template # 9 CPWS fromone of the Cans that you openedup in Step # 3. With the Shinnyside of the Can OUT, put someepoxy/glue in the INSIDE ofCPWS and insert Tab 1 into Slit# 1 and Tab 2 into Slit # 2 (on B-1). Use masking tape to hold inplace until epoxy/glue is dry.

TAB 1 TAB 2

NOTE: If the front of your enginesits too far back inside of EC youcan add another bottle cap to extendit out more.

EC

STEP # 34

STEP # 35

Use Plastic Tape orDuct Tape to markoff the windowpanes as shown.

Cut out and peel and stick the Sharks Mouth and Eyes Decals onto EC, or you can free-hand paint them on as I’ve done here.

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STEP # 36Pin a strip of Duct Tape, 1/2” wide by 6” long, onto apiece of cardboard. STICKY SIDE UP.

Take SIX Electricial Connectors (I use Ring Terminals4-6 Stud) and bend them as shown here. These willbecome the Engine Exhaust Pipes EEP.

Place the 6 EEPonto the Duct Tapeas shown.

Side Views

Epoxy/glue theEEP’s together.

When the epoxy/glue is dry, remove the EEP’s from theDuct Tape and cut off the end with the ring.

Spray paint the whole assembly whatever color you’dlike.

Make 3 holes (approx 3/32” in diameter and 1/4” apart)in each side of EC where the EEP’s will be attached.Put a small amoount of epoxy/glue in each hole and onthe back side of each EEP assembly. Place the EEP’sonto the sides of the EC as shown and hold in placewith masking tape until secured.

ECEEP’sEEP

EEP

EC

Make TWO EEP Assembles.

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STEP # 37TEMPLATE # 10

ECF

TEMPLATE # 11 AS

TEMPLATE # 12

LGCD

STEP # 38

STEP # 39

STEP # 40

Cut Template # 10, EngineCowl Flaps, ECF, from apiece of Can and epoxy/glue in place on the UnderSide of EC.

Cut Template # 11, Air Scoop, AS, from a piece ofCan and epoxy/glue in place on the Top Side of EC.AS

EC

ECECF

B-1

Cut TWO Template # 12 pat-terns from a piece of Can andshape them as shown here.These are the Landing GearCompartment Doors LGCD.

FRONT

BACK

BACK

FRONT

A A

B B

Line A meets ALine B meets B

To display your plane with the Landing Gear UP: Epoxy/gluethe LGCD in place on the Under Side of the wings as shown here.

LGCD LGCD

1 1/4” 1 1/4”

EC

B-1To display your plane with the Landing Gear DOWN: GO TO STEP # 42.

STEP # 41

2”

1/4”

1 1/2” 1 1/2”

3/4” 3/4”

3/4”3/4”

3/4”3/4”

2” 2”

TWLG

MLG

Take a piece of 3/32” Rod, 2 1/4” long, and bend it as shown. This will become the Main LandingGear MLG. Epoxy/glue the MLG to ONE Bottle Cap, for each wheel, on the INSIDE of the Cap.Then epoxy/glue each wheel assembly to the UNDER Side of each wing as shown.

MLG

FOR PLANES WITH THE LANDING GEAR IN THE UP POSITION.

STEP # 42 FOR PLANES WITH THE LANDING GEAR IN THE DOWN POSITION.

LGCDMake the LGCD as you did in Step # 39, then cut them OPENand drill a 3/32” hole near the FRONT as shown here.Drill a 3/32” hole on each Under Side of the wings as shown.

Fill hole in backof Tail Cone withHot Glue.

Insert MLG into wing holes. Slide LGCD over MLG and epoxy/glueagainst wing. Add wheel, (made in Step # 31), to MLG and hold inplace with an Acorn Nut. Take a piece of 3/32” Rod, 3” long,

and bend it as shown. Epoxy/glueinto Tail Cone as Tail Wheel Land-ing Gear.

Wheels go here.

Optional

STEP # 43

AN

LGCD ECF

MLG

TWLG

LANDING GEAR

GUNSTake SIX ElectricalConnectors (same as

used in Step # 36) and cut the ring off as shown. Use your X-Acto knife and make small slits in theleading edge of the wings. Put some epoxy/glue on the ends of the electrical connectors and insertthem into position.

STEP # 44 RADIO MAST & WIRE.Take a piece of 1/16” Rod, 2” long, andwrap a small piece of Can around it. Drill a1/16” hole through the Top of PBB, near theback windows, and epoxy/glue mast inplace. Run a string of Black Fishing Linefrom the Top of the mast to the Top Stapleof the VS as shown.

STEP # 45Epoxy/glue any type of nut onto the PS, as aspacer, to keep the Prop from rubbingagainst the EC. Install Prop and hold it inplace with another nut epoxyed/glued to thePS in Front of the Prop. Cut off excess PS.

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If you use a plastic, or wooden, model airplane prop you may find that the hole in the centerof the prop is larger than the PS. To reduce the size of that hole you can use a 3/32” AnchorBolt glued/epoxied into the back of the prop.

FLATTEN the three spikesbefore securing to the prop.

You can use a 4”, 5”, 6” or 7” Prop, 2,3, or 4 blade, with whatever pitch youdesire, depending on the plane you’rebuilding.

STEP # 46

STEP # 47

SPINNER

TEMPLATE # 13

Cut Template # 13 from one of the Cans you opened up in Step # 3 and form it into a cone.Epoxy/glue the TAB on the INSIDE. You can spray paint the Spinner whatever color you like.

TAB

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On this plane I used a prop from Tower Hobbies (www.towerhobbies.com). Prop # LXFTE7

Your B. C. Air Originals Curtiss P-40 Warhawk is now complete.

STEP # 48

Epoxy/glue the Spinner onto the PROP.

STEP # 49Cut out and apply Flying TigerDecal and Victory Flags Decal.

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