Water Quality - koihealthadvisor€¦ · Overview Natural Ponds have Inflow/Outflow (even if...

WATER

QUALITY

Overview Natural Ponds have Inflow/Outflow (even if seasonal) Our water is stocked much higher than natural ponds Answer?

Frequent Partial Water Changes! Why:

1) Reduces dissolved organics 2) Increases KH (carbonate) levels 3) Decreases GH which has accumulated due to evaporation 4) Replaces trace elements for growth and disease resistance 5) Removes mulm and stirs bottom debris 6) Dilutes growth inhibiting pheromones

Minimum of 10% per week Some say 5% per DAY (30%+ per week) High stocking levels – change up to 10% per DAY Always Dechlorinate! Small amounts of chlorine unbelievably toxic to fish Dechlor is CHEAP – KOI are expensive!

Information from: www.click2roark.com. All rights reserved.

Testing

Water Test Ideal Range Fixes pH 6.8-8.6 Raise – Baking Soda (8.4)

Do NOT lower Ammonia 0 Lower – use ChlorAm-X or Ultimate Nitrite 0 Lower – Water changes, salt to .3, use

Serenity KH (carbonate hardness) or t.a (total alkalinity)

80-120 (up to 500)

Raise – Baking Soda

O2 (oxygen) 6 ppm or UP Raise – Spray Bars, Air stones and air pumps, venturis

Temperature Stable, Ideal is 70-75

Nitrate Below 20ppm Lower – Frequent Partial Water Change GH (General Hardness) 100 (up to 300) Limestone, Calcium Chloride CO2 (Carbon Dioxide) Below 5 ppm Lower – Raise pH and or KH

The BIG 4:

pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, KH

How often? New Pond, un-cycled filter – DAILY for pH, Ammonia and Nitrite DAILY for KH if you are adjusting Established pond – Ammonia weekly ALL else – every other week HOW? Dry, Clean Tubes – water spots can give wrong pH and KH Clean sample from 8” below surface (O2 from BOTTOM!) Technique – invert sample bottle, dunk to depth, slowly right to release air Keep out of sun – temperature must be the same MEASURE! A few drops too few or too much gives WRONG results! 10 minute MAXIMUM before testing (0 minutes for O2!) Follow directions EACH TIME! Use cap – not fingers! Read results carefully – follow directions! Example: read ½” from card, match color by looking at side of tube


Tool Kits

Measuring Plastic Bucket – 3 or 5 Gallon (NON-METALLIC, as chemicals react with

galvanized and release lead and zinc into H2O) Set of plastic measuring cups Set of plastic measuring spoons Eyedropper Syringes (Non-sterile, needle-less) 1,3,5,50,100 – cc syringes (about 6 mo. before rubber seals decay)

Emergency/Triage: Tank with matched temperature water for holding fish Battery operated aerator (like Big Bubbles from K-Mart, with air stone, need D Cell batteries) ChlorAm-X Hydrogen Peroxide (for emergency aeration at .2 cc per gallon) Salt Baking Soda Dosing Syringes All purpose tool (swiss army knife, with pliers, etc) (Ice Bags – if hot) Fish transport bags Flashlight


pH Measure of Hydrogen ions High concentration of H+ ions are acidic Deficiency of H+ ions are basic Thus, pH is shorthand for ‘potential of Hydrogen’ PH scale is 0.0 (strongly acid) to 14.0 (strongly basic) Any number between 6.8 and 8.6 is OK in an established pond Not the number – but STABILITY DAY to DAY and DAY to NIGHT variability MAXIMUM should be .3 (point 3) Significant fluctuation usually means: Low Carbonate Levels Insufficient Aeration Too Many FISH! New ponds, not fully cycled biofilter – pH can be critical! 4-8 week cycling, Ammonia more toxic at high pH At pH 8.4, Ammo is 10 TIMES as toxic as ph 7.2 Bead filters Low pH = Low KH Beads like KH of MINIMUM 150-200 to cycle (can be 400) Problems Leaves release tannic acid – lowers pH Acid rain can be a real problem in some areas Test If well water: test the pH, beat with an electric mixer 20 min., test again. Nitrification process – consumes carbonates as food KH falls, so pH falls Unchecked = pH crash and dead fish! (Biofilter dies too!) To raise pH – use Baking Soda (native pH 8.4) Once pH of water is 8.4, it will not go higher! Slower system – use calcium carbonate (CaCO3) Limestone, Oyster Shells, or cast some plaster of Paris USUALLY – WE DO NOT LOWER pH


Ammonia (NH4) Toxic compound produced by fish as result of digestion of protein NUMBER 1 killer of Koi! More fish are killed by ammonia than all other factors combined! Maximum allowable = 0! Any detectable level is too much! Fish’s ability to tolerate: pH – high = greater proportion of toxic, un-ionized form fish that are ammonia stressed will NOT tolerate pH changes Temperature – high = increased ammonia toxicity, = reduced O2 = increases fishes metabolic waste O2 – saturation = tends to offset effects of ammonia Low O2 with any ammonia kills fish! General Health/Immune System Healthy, strong fish can tolerate ammonia for a short time Fish with parasites have MUCH less tolerance for ammonia Ammonia stresses Koi while suppressing their immune system Ammonia has high affinity for hemoglobin Fish subjected to ammonia act like they have low O2 gasping, lethargy, seek cooler and/or high aeration Fish stressed by ammonia: Sit motionless on bottom Excrete heavy slime Nitrosomonas use ammonia as food – it is consumed as quickly as produced These bacteria coat biofilter, liner, plants, even fish Ammonia is produced by: Fish – from gills, kidney and anus Fecal matter outgases ammonia Decaying organic matter – plants, leaves, etc. Fertilizer in water, cow farms upstream of well, etc. Solution: ChlorAm-X or other ammonia binder DO NOT use with Nessler type ammonia test (yellow to red) DO use Salicylate type ammonia tests (yellow to green) If not using ChlorAm-X and using a dechlorinator – you may get incorrect Readings from your ammonia test. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with tap water. Test. = No ammonia Add dechlor. Test. Compare. If hazy – no good! Use other. Add 10 drops household ammonia. Test. If positive and NO Haze – then it’s GOOD!


Nitrite Waste of Nitrosomonas bacteria Food for Nitrobacter bacteria Any amount other than 0 causes: Immune suppression Nitrite poisoning (aka ‘brown blood disease’) Less toxic in high pH Transient levels less than 1 ppm for a DAY or 2 are not really harmful Long term exposure to .5 ppm can KILL or increase susceptibility to pathogens Symptoms are like low 02: Gasping, lethargy, seeking cooler water with high aeration Refusing food, clamping fins, exhibiting fearlessness Red streaks in fins Nitrite spikes common in low pH/low KH, cool (under 70 F), heavy feeding Only real source is nitrosomonas Possibly from plant food tablets Solutions: Can use Serenity - expensive 50% water change Salt to .3 (or 3000 ppm which is 3 lbs per 100 gallons) Fish in 3-4 ppm will survive short term exposure with salt Gives you a week to solve the problem All above are temporary – you need a working filter!


Hardness

2 completely UNRELATED values General Hardness, also called:

Permanent Hardness Calcium Hardness True Hardness

Carbonate Hardness, also called Total Alkalinity or t.a. Temporary Hardness Buffering Capacity

YOU NEED TO MEASURE BOTH!!!


KH or Carbonate Hardness KH – Kalkwasser Hardness is the German for chalk water KH is the abbreviation instead of CH as we might guess Responsible for neutralizing natural acids released during nitrification Carbonate Hardness is a chemical sponge for acid If KH is correct, then pH is stable If KH decreases, then pH can crash, killing fish, plants and the biofilter 80-120 is normal range (4.5 – 6.7 DH, where DH = 17.9 mg/L or ppm) lower = pH swings = fish stress below 60 = biofilter unstable below 50 = fish deaths Carbonates react strongly with acid and neutralize = BUFFER! To INCREASE KH (beware of ammonia!) – use BAKING SODA (sodium bicarb) Raises pH to 8.4 MAXIMUM change per DAY = 20 ppm (unless KH is less than 50 – then do 70 ppm per day) Can also use Sodium Carbonate, Calcium Carbonate, Potassium Carbonate or Potassium Bicarbonate Nitrification Fish produce ammonia Nitrosomonas eat ammonia AND CARBONATES as food Notrosomonas & Nitrobacters consume 7.2 mg of carbonates for every 1 mg of ammonia! 1 kg of food (2.2 lbs) at 38-40% protein, produces 40 g. pure ammonia and consumes 295.2 g (295,200 mg) of carbonates! Feeding 4% of body weight per day – uses LOTS of carbonates! Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): To increase 100 Gallons by 20 ppm, add 7.571 g or 1.4 teaspoons To increase 100 Gallons by 70 ppm, add 26.5 g, or 4.9 teaspoons (1.6 T.) To increase 1000 Gallons by 20 ppm, add 75.7 g. or 2.6 ounces, or 14.0 teaspoons, or 4.7 Tablespoons, or .3 cup To increase 1000 Gallons by 70 ppm, add 265 g. or 9.3 ounces, or 16.4 Tablespoons or 1.0 cup


Oxygen (O2) Air is 19-21% Oxygen Oxygen is slightly soluble in water To dissolve Oxygen in water: Put in motion – splash, pump, agitate to expose a larger % of fluid to air As water gains O2, it must move out of the way to expose more Gentle motion during power failure will keep fish alive for hours Japanese had kids stir indoor ponds during winter! The more depleted the water is, the more it attempts to absorb Oxygen should ALWAYS be above 6 ppm 4-6 ppm is O2 stress – fish hit the surface below 5 ppm 3 ppm – fish put their noses in the air, or at the nearest O2 source if it persists – fish DIE can tolerate briefly – but is major stress 2 ppm – all fish die Temperature directly affects ability of water to carry O2 Water temp 37 F = 14 ppm Water temp 85 F = 7 ppm (see chart) For good O2, there must be circulation in pond Bottom to Top Around pond -No dead spots Beware meds! They eat O2! Formalin, PP, .6 salt in hot weather (.3 is NOT stressful) Beware plants Consume O2 at night Cover surface, reducing O2 exchange As ammonia and nitrite rise – fishes O2 uptake is mechanically impaired!


Temperature Consistency is more important than the number! Koi can survive 33-95 (short time only at 95, they stop eating at 90!) F Below 45 F Koi do not hibernate, but they go into Torpor If disturbed – they wake and sluggishly deal with interruption No immune system – but very few parasites High temperatures over 80 F Fish seek cooler water away from the sun Metabolism is on high – they electively rest to conserve energy Meanwhile, the O2 is low 70-75 is Koi IDEAL when immune system is best! Current thinking is that Koi do need 30-60 days each year of cooler temperatures (at least down to 50 degrees) combined with fasting to reduce deadly body fat and reabsorb eggs in females GET A THERMOMETER Best = Digital recording Min and Max Also pool thermometers Not aquarium types – too small so that fish may swallow


Nitrates Danger level is 30-40 ppm for adults, 10 ppm for fingerlings Optimally 0 OK up to 20 ppm Solutions: Plants Water changes – frequent, partial – suggest 5% per day


General Hardness Amount of Dissolved: Calcium Salt Magnesium Salt Iron Aluminum Manganese Sulfates Chlorides GH has NOTHING to do with the Ability to BUFFER pH Other than Calcium, others only important to Koi in trace amounts Calcium – for: Bones Increased Disease Resistance Without – weak bones, broken backs, neurological problems in extremes Koi like 100 ppm (mg/L) – but 300 is OK GH is combined – not calcium alone To raise fry – need calcium ion specific water test to insure enough To raise: Pillowcases w/ limestone chips (can put in filter) in high flow area 1 teaspoon powdered limestone (calcium carbonate) per 100 gal add to 5 gallon bucket, stir, spread into pond Can be milky, and take 24 hours to a week to clear DO NOT use with fry Calcium Chloride - Cheap, Easy! Calcium Hydroxide (scaled lime) Calcium Oxide (lime) Calcium Sulfate (gypsum) ` Above 4 items – add 1 teaspoon per 200 gallons/24 hrs, dissolve 1st

To lower: Not really necessary – if you can drink it, it’s OK for Koi


Thoughts Beware too many plants Cover the surface and restrict O2 exchange Fish hide – not as friendly (good if predation) Can’t see fish to evaluate for disease Algae happens – it can out-compete EVERYTHING else! Nothing else is as efficient at grabbing nitrates and phosphates Very old species geologically pH fluctuation AM to PM not healthy – not normal Should be rock solid Do NOT lower pH! If you must for any reason, Do not use vinegar – use muriatic acid (HCL from pool supply) Vinegar toxic to fish Increases bioload Decomposes into organics which the filter must kill Consumes O2 Increases bacterial counts Eye and gill irritant Baking soda never increases pH higher than 8.4 Keep KH to 120 (bead filters over 200) Can use to calibrate pH test kit – 4 teaspoons in 1 cup of distilled H20 Natural ponds have a million gallons or more per fish – ours are NOT natural UV does not sterilize – they control algae May reduce pathogens at very high levels Koi’s immune system must get rid of pathogens – UV or not Koi don’t hibernate They are cold blooded and powered down to use less calories They still respond to stimulus – BAD – uses energy reserves They move to bottom where it is warmer Do not feed below 50 Pond depth, according to the Japanese, should be 3 times the length of biggest fish Fresh, unleached concrete can kill by raising pH Leach by using muriatic acid to maintain pH of 4-5 for 5 days If pH tries to rise, continue.

When you can keep under 6 for 24 hours, you are done (usually takes 30 days) Obviously – NO FISH while doing this!


Ammonia Toxicity The following table shows relative ammonia toxicity as a function of temperature and pH. Because the un-ionized form of ammonia (NH4+) is the toxic form, and because this form is more prevalent at higher pH's and temperatures, ammonia becomes dramatically more toxic with increasing pH & temperature. In the table below, the un-ionized form is expressed as a percentage of the total ammonia. The coloration indicates the approximate toxicity of a 1 ppm ammonia level to healthy Koi.

Copyright © 1998 by Roark. All Rights Reserved. Email comments to: [email protected]

Oxygen Saturation -vs- Temperature The ability of water to hold oxygen is a direct function of temperature. Briefly stated, cold water is capable of holding more oxygen than warm water. The table below shows this relationship.


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Carbon Dioxide Concentration -vs- pH / KH Koi appreciate water with a CO2 level less than 5 ppm. As the amount of CO2 increases, the fishes ability to respire CO2 in exchange for oxygen becomes impaired. Even in ponds where the measured O2 level is high, it is still possible to have oxygen stress occur. The table below shows the approximate CO2 level as a function of pH and KH (alkalinity).


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Grams Required For A Given PPM Concentration Lots of folks get confused trying to calculate how many grams of a compound are needed to attain a given PPM concentration. The following table shows the required grams needed for 1000 US gallons of fresh water.


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Note: If the concentration you are looking for isn't shown above, simply scale the table up or down by increasing orders of magnitude until you get what you need. Example: Lets say you wanted to know how many grams of potassium permanganate would be needed to attain a 4 ppm concentration. (Obviously this example assumes your pond is 1000 gallons). Simply go to the "0.04 ppm" row and scale the results by 100x... like this: From the table: 0.04 ppm = 0.1514 grams, so by scaling this value up by a factor of 100. 4.00 ppm = 15.14 grams Copyright © 1998 by Roark. All Rights Reserved.

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Water Quality - koihealthadvisor€¦ · Overview Natural Ponds have Inflow/Outflow (even if...

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