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April 2015 100264135

Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heater

Installa on Instruc ons and Use & Care Guide

Keep this manual in the pocket on heater for future reference whenever maintenance, adjustment or service is required.

Retain your original receipt as proof of purchase.

LOW LEADCONTENT

DO NOT RETURN THIS UNIT TO THE STORE Read this manual and the labels on the water heater before you install, operate, or service it. If you have diffi culty following the direc ons, or aren’t sure you can safely and properly do any of this work yourself:

• Call our Technical Assistance Hotline at 1-800-821-2017 . We can help you with installation, operations, troubleshooting, or maintenance. Before you call, write down the model and serial number from the water heater’s data plate.

Incorrect installa on, opera on, or service can damage the water heater, your house and other property, and present risks including fi re, scalding, electric shock, and explosion, causing serious injury or death.

Table of Contents PageIMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION .................................3GETTING STARTED ............................................................6INSTALLATION ...................................................................7DIAGNOSTIC CODES ........................................................20TROUBLESHOOTING CHART ...........................................22MAINTENANCE ...............................................................25REPAIR PARTS ILLUSTRATION ..........................................30NOTES .............................................................................31

COMPLETED INSTALLATION TYPICAL

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Thermal Expansion Tank

Shut-off Valve(Cold)

Primary Condensate Drain (3/4” PVC)

Drain LineSuitable Drain Pan

Discharge Pipe(Do Not Cap or Plug)

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

Drain

Cold(Inlet)

Hot(Outlet)

Shut-off Valve(Hot)

Air Filter

User Interface Module (UIM)

Upper Element and ECO

Condensate Drain Access Cover (See Figure 15, p.11)

Connectivity Port

Drain Valve

Lower Element

2 • Residen al Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heater Use and Care Guide

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Residen al Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 3

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION

Important informa on to keep

Fill out this sec on and keep thismanual in the pocket of the water heater for reference.

Date Purchased:

Model number:

Serial number:

Maintenance performed:* Date:

This is the safety alert symbol. It is used to alert you topoten al physical injury hazards. Obey all safety mes-sages that follow this symbol to avoid possible property damage, serious injury or death. Do not remove any

permanent instruc ons, labels, or the data plate from either the outside of the water heater or on the inside of the access panels. Keep this manual near the water heater.

DANGER

Read and follow all safety messages and instruc ons in this manual.

DANGER indicates hazardous situa on that, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury.

WARNINGWARNING indicates a hazardous situa on that, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury.

CAUTIONCAUTION indicates a hazardous situa on that, if not avoided, could result in minor or moderate injury.

NOTICENOTICE indicates prac ces not related to physical injury.

*Drain and fl ush tank, clean air fi lter, clean condensate pan, and remove and inspect anode rod a er fi rst six months of opera on and at least annually therea er. Operate the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P) annu-ally and inspect T&P valve every 2-4 years (see the label on the T&P valve for maintenance schedule). See the Main-tenance sec on for more informa on about maintaining this water heater.

The California Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act requires the Governor of California to publish a list of substances known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm, and requires businesses to warn of potential exposure to such substances.

WARNING! This product contains one or more chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproduc ve harm.

This appliance can cause low-level exposure to some of the substances included in the Act.



T o reduce the risk of property damage, serious injury or death,

read and follow the precau ons below, all labels on the water heater, and the safety messages and instruc ons throughout this manual.

RISKS DURING INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE

Electric Shock RiskContact with the electrical parts in the junction box, behind the access doors

and inside the top shroud can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock:

• Disconnect power by opening the circuit breaker or removing the fuses before installing or servicing.

• Use a non-contact circuit tester to confirm that power is off before working on or near any electrical parts.

• Replace the junction box cover and access doors after servicing.

Lifting Risk

WARNING! The water heater is heavy. Follow these precau ons to

reduce the risk of property damage, injuries from li ing or impact injuries from dropping the water heater.

• Use at least two people to lift the water heater.

• Be sure you both have a good grip before lifting.

• Unit is top heavy, u se an appli-ance dolly (with strap) to move the water heater.

RISKS DURING OPERATION

Scalding RiskThis water heater can make water hot enough to cause

severe burns instantly, resulting in severe injury or death.

• Feel water before bathing or s how-ering

• To reduce the risk of scalding, install Thermostatic Mixing Valves (temperature limiting valves) at each point-of-use. These valves automatically mix hot and cold water to limit the temperature at the tap. Mixing valves are available from your local plumbing supplier . Follow manufacturer’s instructions for installation and adjustment of the valves.

• The User Interface Module (UIM) on this water heater have been fac-tory set to approximately 120°F to reduce the risk of scalding. Higher temperatures increase the risk of scalding, but even at 120°F, hot water can scald. If you choose a higher temperature, Thermostatic Mixing Valves located at each point-of-use are particularly important to help avoid scalding.

Temperature Time to Produce a Serious Burn

120°F (49°C) More than 5 minutes

125°F (52°C) 1½ to 2 minutes

130°F (54°C) About 30 seconds

135°F (57°C) About 10 seconds

140°F (60°C) Less than 5 seconds

145°F (63°C) Less than 3 seconds

150°F (66°C) About 1½ seconds

155°F (68°C) About 1 second

For informa on about changing the factory thermostat se ng(s), refer to the “Adjus ng Temperature” sec on in this manual (“Step 13” on page 16).

Even if you set the water heater thermostat(s) to a low se ng, higher temperatures may occur in certain circumstances:

• In some cases, repeated small draws of water can cause the hot and cold water in the tank to “stack” in layers. If this happens, the water can be as much as thirty degrees hotter than the thermo-stat setting. This temperature varia-tion is the result of your usage pat-tern and is not a malfunction.

• Water temperature will be hot-ter if someone adjusted the thermostat(s) to a higher setting.

• Problems with the thermostat(s), or other malfunctions may result in higher than expected water tem-peratures.

• If the water heater is in a hot envi-ronment, the water in the tank can become as hot as the surrounding air, regardless of the thermostat setting.

• If the water supplied to the water heater is pre-heated (for example, by a solar system) the temperature in the tank may be higher than the water heater’s thermostat setting.

To reduce the risk of unusually hot water reaching the fi xtures in the house, install Thermosta c Mixing Valves at each point-of-use.

If anyone in your home is at par cular risk of scalding (for example, the el-derly, children, or people with disabili- es) or if there is a local code or state

law requiring a certain water tempera-ture at the hot water tap, then these precau ons are par cularly important.

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According to a na onal standard American Society of Sanitary Engineer-ing (ASSE 1070) and most local plumbing codes, the water heater’s thermostat should not be used as the sole means to regulate water temperature and avoid scalds.

Properly adjusted Thermosta c Mixing Valves installed at each point-of-use al-low you to set the tank temperature to a higher se ng without increasing risk of scalds. A higher temperature se ng allows the tank to provide much more hot water and can help provide proper water temperatures for appliances such as dishwashers and washing machines. Higher tank temperatures (140°F) also kill bacteria that cause a condi- on known as “smelly water” and can

reduce the levels of bacteria that cause water-borne diseases.

Water Contamination RiskDo not use chemicals that could con-taminate the potable water supply. Do not use piping that has been treated with chromates, boiler seal, or other chemicals.

Fire RiskTo reduce the risk of a fire that could destroy your home and serious-

ly injure or kill people:

• D o not store things that can burn easily such as paper or clothes next to the water heater.

• Be sure the junction box cover and the access door covers are in place. These covers keep debris from entering and potentially being ignit-ed, and help keep any internal fires from spreading.

• Keep the water heater from becom-ing wet. Immediately shut the water heater off and have it inspected by a qualified person if you find that the wiring, thermostat(s) or surround-ing insulation have been exposed to water in any way (e.g., leaks from plumbing, leaks from the water heater itself can damage property and could cause a fire risk). If the water heater is subjected to flood conditions or the thermostat(s) have been submerged in water, the entire water heater must be replaced.

• Make electrical connections prop-erly, according to the instructions on page 15. Use 10 gauge solid copper wire. Use a UL listed or CSA approved strain relief. Connect ground wire to green ground screw.

Explosion RiskHigh temperatures and pressures in the water heater tank can cause an

explosion resulting in property damage, serious injury or death. A new Temperature and Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve is included with your water heater to reduce risk of explosion by discharging hot water. Additional temperature and pressure protective equipment may be required by local codes.

A nationally recognized testing labora-tory maintains periodic inspection of the valve production process and certi-fies that it meets the requirements for Relief Valves for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI Z21.22. The T&P Relief Valve’s relief pressure must not exceed the working pressure rating of the wa-ter heater as stated on the rating plate.

Maintain the T&P Relief Valve properly. Follow the maintenance instructions provided by the manufacturer of the T&P Relief Valve (label attached to T&P Relief Valve) and the procedure on page 31.

An explosion could occur if the T&P Relief Valve or discharge pipe is blocked. Do not cap or plug the T&P Relief Valve or discharge pipe.

Fire and Explosion Risk if Hot Water is Not Used for Two Weeks or More

C AUTION! Hydrogen gas builds up in a hot water system when it is not used for a long period (two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely fl ammable. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, open a hot water faucet for several minutes at the kitchen sink before using any elec-trical appliances connected to the hot water system. Do not smoke or have an open fl ame or other igni on source near the faucet while it is open.

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Figure 1 - Flexible connectors use compres-sion fittings and do not require soldering.

Figure 2 - Use a non-contact circuit tester to insure that the power is off before you work on a circuit.

Figure 3 - Install a Pressure Reducing Valve set to 50 to 60 PSI.

Figure 4 - Condensate overflow flexible tubing.

3/4” ID

3/4” OD

3/4” OD

Elbow

Pipe

To Main Drain Connection

Figure 5 - Main Drain Connection piping.

1Review all of the instruc ons before you begin work. Improper installa on can

damage the water heater, your home and other property, and can present risks of serious injury or death.

2Check with your local and state authori es for any local or state codes that apply to

your area. In the absence of local and state codes, follow Na onal Fire Protec on Associa on (NFPA-70) and the current edi ons of the Na onal Electric Code (NEC) and the Interna- onal Plumbing Code (IPC). The

instruc ons in this manual comply with na onal codes, but the installer is responsible for complying with local codes.

Massachuse s code requires this wa-ter heater to be installed in accordance with Massachuse s 248-CMR 2.00 and 248-CMR 5.00: State Plumbing Code. Other local and state authori es may have similar requirements or other codes applicable to the installa on of this water heater.

3Before you start, be sure you have, and know how to use, the following tools and supplies:

• Plumbing tools and supplies appro-priate for the type of water pipes in your home

• Threaded connectors (Figure 1) for the cold and hot water pipes

• For homes plumbed with plastic pipe, use threaded connectors suit-able for the specific type of plastic pipe used: CPVC and PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). Do not use PVC pipe.

• For homes with copper pipes, you may purchase connector kits with compression fittings that don’t require soldering (Figure 1). Com-pression fittings are easier to install than soldering copper pipes.

• Teflon® tape or pipe joint com-pound approved for potable water

• Tools to make the electrical connec-tions (for example, screwdrivers, wire strippers)

• Non-Contact circuit tester to check for power (Figure 2)

• Water Pressure Gauge (Figure 6 on page 7)

Recommended Accessories:

• Suitable drain pan (Figure 8 on page 8)

• Automatic leak detection and shut-off device

• Pressure Reducing Valve (Figure 3 on page 6)

• Thermal Expansion Tank (Figure 7 on page 7)

• Point-of-use Thermostatic Mixing Valves (Figure 9 on page 8)

• 1/2” Flexible tubing for Condensate Overflow (Figure 4 on page 6)

• 90° Elbow with 3/4” Female Unthreaded Socket End X 3/4” Male NPT Threaded End (Figure 5 on page 6)

• 3/4” OD Plastic Pipe for Condensate Drain (Figure 5 on page 6)

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Follow these steps for properinstalla on:

Step 1:

✓ Verify that your home is equipped

and up-to-date forproper opera onInstalling a new water heater is the perfect me to examine your home’s plumbing system and make sure the system is up to current code standards. There have likely been plumbing code changes since the old water heater was installed. We recommend installing the following accessories and any other needed changes to bring your home up to the latest code requirements.

Use this checklist and inspect your home. Install any devices you need to comply with codes and assure that your new water heater performs at its best. Check with your local plumbing offi cial for more informa on.

✓ Water pressureWe recommend checking your

home’s water pressure with a pressure gauge (Figure 6). Most codes allow a maximum incoming water pressure of 80 psi. We recommend a working pres-sure no higher than 50-60 psi.

HOW: Purchase an inexpensive water pressure gauge available at your local plumbing supplier . Connect the Water Pressure Gauge to an outside faucet and measure the maximum water pressure experienced throughout the day (highest water pressures o en oc-cur at night).

Figure 6 - Use a Water Pressure Gauge to make sure your home’s water pressure is not too high. To limit your home’s water pressure: Locate your home’s Pressure Reduc-ing Valve (PRV) on the main incoming (cold) water supply line and adjust the water pressure control to between 50 and 60 psi. If your home does not have a Pressure Reducing Valve, install a PRV on the home’s main water supply line and set it to between 50 and 60 psi. Pressure Reducing Valves are avail-able at your local plumbing supplier .

BACKGROUND: Over the years, many u li es have increased water sup-ply pressures so they can serve more homes. In some homes today, pres-sures exceed 100 psi. High water pressures can damage water heaters, causing premature leaks. If you have replaced toilet valves, had a water heater leak, or had to repair applianc-es connected to the plumbing system, pay par cular a en on to your home’s water pressure. When purchasing a PRV, make sure the PRV has a built-in bypass.

✓ Water pressureincrease caused by

thermal expansion Verify that you have a properly sized Thermal Expansion Tank (Figure 7). We recommend installing an expansion tank if your home does not have one. Codes require a properly pressurized, properly sized Thermal Expansion Tank in almost all homes. (See illustra on on inside front cover.)

Figure 7 - A Thermal Expansion Tank helps protect the home’s plumbing system from pressure spikes.HOW: Connect the Thermal Expansion Tank (available at your local plumbing supplier ) to the cold water supply line near the water heater. The expansion tank contains a bladder and an air charge. To work properly, the Thermal Expansion Tank must be sized accord-ing to the water heater’s tank capacity and pressurized to match the home’s incoming water pressure. Refer to the installa on instruc ons provided with the Thermal Expansion Tank for instal-la on details.

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BACKGROUND: Water expands when heated, and the increased volume of water must have a place to go, or thermal expansion will cause large increases in water pressure (despite the use of a Pressure Reducing Valve on the home’s main water supply line). The Safe Drinking Water Act of 1974 requires the use of backfl ow preventers and check valves to restrict water from your home reentering the public water system. Backfl ow preventers are o en installed in water meters and may not be readily visible. As a result, most all plumbing systems today are now “closed,” and almost all homes now need a Thermal Expan-sion Tank.

A Thermal Expansion Tank is a prac cal and inexpensive way to help avoid damage to the water heater, washing machine, dishwasher, ice maker and even toilet valves. If your toilet occasionally runs for no appar-ent reason (usually briefl y at night), that may be due to thermal expansion increasing the water pressure tempo-rarily.

✓ Water pipe and tank leaks

Leaks from plumbing pipes or from the water heater itself can damage property and could cause a fi re risk. • Install an automatic leak detec-

tion and shutoff device (available at your local plumbing supplier). These devices can detect water leaks and can shut off the water heater’s water supply if a leak occurs.

Figure 8 - A suitable drain pan piped to an adequate drain can help protect flooring from leaks and drips.

• Install a suitable drain pan (avail-able at your local plumbing suppli-er) under the water heater (Figure 8) to catch condensation or leaks in the piping connections or tank. Most codes require and we recom-mend installing the water heater in a drain pan that is piped to an ade-quate drain. The drain pan must be at least two inches wider than the diameter of the water heater. Install the drain pan so the water level would be limited to a maxi-mum depth of 1-3/4”.

✓ Water tempera-ture regula on

Figure 9 - Thermostatic Mixing Valves installed at each point -of-use can help prevent scalds.Install Thermosta c Mixing Valves (Figure 9) to regulate the temperature of the water supplied to each point-of-use (for example, kitchen sink, bathroom sink, bath, shower). Con-sult the valve manufacturer’s instruc- ons or a qualifi ed person.

WARNING! Even if the water heater thermostat is set to a rela vely low temperature, hot water can scald. Install Thermosta c Mixing Valves at each point-of-use to reduce the risk of scalding (page 4).

BACKGROUND: A Thermosta c Mix-ing Valve, installed at each point-of-use, mixes hot water from the water heater with cold water to more precisely regulate the temperature of hot water supplied to fi xtures. If you aren’t sure if your plumbing system is equipped with properly installed and adjusted Thermosta c Mixing Valves at each point where hot water is used, contact a qualifi ed person for more informa on.

Step 2:Verify that the loca on is appropriateBefore installing your water heater, ensure that:

1The water heater will be:

• Installed indoors close to the center of the plumbing

system.

• In a suitable drain pan piped to an adequate floor drain or external to the building (Figure 8).

• In an area that will not freeze

• In an area that is suitable for install-ing the water heater vertically and on a level surface.

• Install where a typical home appli-ance sound would not cause a dis-turbance

• Should not be used for space heat-ing.

NOTE: Water heater must be level!NOTE: Water heater must be level!

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INSTALLATION

2The loca on has adequate space (clearances) for period-ic servicing. For op mal water

heater effi ciency, the unit must have unrestricted airfl ow and requires a minimum installa on space of 700 cubic feet. As an example, a room that has an 8 foot tall ceiling and is 10 feet long by 8-3/4 feet wide would contain 700 cubic feet.NOTE: This Heat Pump Water Heater may be located within a required mini-mum of 6” clearance from a wall on the outlet side, however for future service considera ons, a minimum of 3 feet from any obstruc on on the back, le and right side is recommend-ed.

3The fl oor can support the weight of a full water heater.

Table 1Capacity Filled Weight (lbs)50 Gallon 57366 Gallon 79680 Gallon 921

4Your area is not prone to earthquakes. If it is, use special straps as required by

local building codes.

NOTICE: The state of California re-quires bracing, anchoring, or strapping the water heater to avoid its moving during an earthquake. Contact local u li es for code requirements in your area, visit h p://www.dsa.dgs.ca.gov, or call 1-916-445-8100 and request instruc ons. Other loca ons may have similar requirements. Check with your local and state authori es.

5 The loca on is not prone to physical damage by vehicles, fl ooding, or other risks.

VehicleStop

Drain Drain Pan

Figure 10 - In a garage, install a vehicle stop to avoid water heater damage.

6Avoid loca ons such as a cs, upper fl oors, or where a leak might damage the structure

or furnishings. Due to the normal corrosive ac on of water, the tank will eventually leak. To minimize property damage from leaks, inspect and maintain your water heater in accor-dance with this manual’s instruc ons. Inspect the drain pan, pipes, and surrounding area regularly and fi x any leaks found. Drain pans are available at your local plumbing supplier. Leaks are frequently in the plumbing system itself and not the water heater.

7The unit cannot be placed into any type of closet or small enclosure, unless adequate

provisions are made for air exchange (vented or louvered doors, etc.).

8To ensure op mal perfor-mance and servicability, a minimum clearance of 6

inches must be maintained from all sides and 6 inches from the top for access to the air fi lter.

9Water heaters located in uncondi oned spaces (i.e., garages, basements etc.) may

require the water piping, condensate piping, and drain piping to be insulated to guard from freezing.

10The air fi lter, condensa on drain and controls must be easily accessable for opera-

on and service.

11 The site loca on must be free from any corrosive elements in the atmosphere

such as sulfer, fl uorine, sodium and chlorine. These elements are found in aerosol sprays, detergents, bleaches, air fresheners, paint and varnish removers, refrigerants and many other household products. In addi on, excessive dust and lint may eff ect the opera on of the unit, see the Air Filter Maintenence sec on in this manual.

12The ambient air temperature must also be considered when installing this unit. In Effi ciency

Mode the air temperature needs to be above 45°F/7.2°C and below 120°F/48.8°C for heat pump opera on. If the air temperature falls outside these upper and lower limits, the electrical elements will ac vate to meet the hot water demand and the heat pump does not operate in either Effi ciency or Hybrid Mode.

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Step 3:

Removing the old water heater

1Read each installa on step and decide if you have the necessary skills to install the

water heater. Only proceed if you can safely perform the work. If you are not comfortable, have a qualifi ed person perform the installa on.

2 Locate the water heater’s circuit breaker and turn it OFF (or remove the circuit’s

fuses).

3On the old water heater, remove the electrical junction box access panel.

Using a non-contact circuit tester, check the wiring to make certain the power is OFF.

WARNING! Working on an ener-gized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock.

4Disconnect the electrical wires.

5Open a hot water faucet and let the hot water run un l it is cool (This may take 10

minutes or longer).

Figure 11 - Let the hot water run until it is cool.

WARNING! Be sure the water runs cool before draining the tank to re-duce the risk of scalding.

6Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and place the other end of the hose in a

drain, outside, or a bucket. (Note that sediment in the bo om of the tank may clog the valve and prevent it from draining. If you can’t get the tank to drain, contact a qualifi ed person.)

7Turn the cold water supply valve OFF.

8Open the drain valve on the water heater.

Figure 12 - Draining the old water heater.

9Also open a hot water faucet to help the water in the tank drain faster.

10When the tank is empty, disconnect the Temperature & Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve

discharge pipe. You may be able to reuse the discharge pipe, but do not reuse the old T&P Relief Valve. A new T&P Relief Valve comes installed on your water heater (or on some models, is in the carton with the water heater).

Figure 13 - Removing the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe.

11 Disconnect the water pipes. Many water pipes are connected by a threaded

union which can be disconnected with wrenches. If you must cut the water pipes, cut the pipes close to the water heater’s inlet and outlet connec ons, leaving the water pipes as long as possible. If necessary, you can make them shorter later when you install the new water heater.

12 Remove the old water heater.

WARNING! Use two or more people to remove or install water heater. Failure to do so can result in back or other injury.

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Step 4:

Installing the newwater heater

1Completely read all instruc- ons before beginning. If you

are not sure you can complete the installa on, DO NOT RETURN THIS UNIT TO THE STORE. Seek assistance from any of the following sources:

• Schedule an appointment with a qualified person to install your water heater.

• Call our Technical Assistance Hotline at 1-800-821-2017

2 Install a suitable drain pan that is piped to an adequate drain.

3Set the water heater in place taking care not to damage the drain pan.

NOTICE: Most codes require se ng the water heater in a suitable drain pan piped to an adequate drain. The drain pan helps avoid property damage which may occur from condensa on or leaks in the piping connec ons or tank. The drain pan must be at least two inches wider than the diameter of the water heater. Install the drain pan so the water level is limited to a maximum depth of 1-3/4”.

4Verify that the water heater is set in place properly. Check that:

• The T&P Relief Valve will not be in contact with any electrical parts.

• There is adequate space to install the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe and that it can be piped to a sepa-rate drain (and not into the drain pan).

• There is adequate space to install

proper condensate drain piping.

• There is adequate access and space around the water heater for future maintenance. A minimum clearance of 6 inches must be maintained from all sides and 6 inches from the top for access to the air filter.

• Unit is level to allow proper con-densate drainage. An unlevel unit may lead to condensate draining inproperly and resulting in property damage.

DO NOT CONNECT ELECTRICALWIRING UNTIL YOU AREINSTRUCTED TO DO SO.

NOTICE: Connec ng electrical power to the tank before it is completely full of water (water must run FULL STREAM from a hot water tap for a full three minutes) will cause the upper hea ng element to burn out.

Step 5:

Connec ng the Conden-sate Pump When Re-quiredNOTE: If no fl oor drain is available or the drain is above the level of the condensate line, a condensate pump must be installed.

1Follow condensate drain pump manufacturers instruc- ons for installa on.

Connec ng the Conden-sate Pump Op onal Overfl ow Shut Off Switch

1Locate the white 22 AWG wire loop inside the condensate drain access compartment by

removing the 4 screws a aching the condensate drain access cover to the unit. Cut the loop and strip insula on off the 2 ends (Figures 14 & 15 on page 11).

2Measure the distance from the condensate drain access cover to the condensate

pump, and cut two 22 AWG wires to correct length and strip the insula on at both ends. Thread both ends through the grommet on the drain pan cover.

3Connect these 2 wires to the 2 wires on the water heater using wire nuts or other con-

nectors. Reinstall the condensate drain access cover and keep the connec on joints inside of the cover.

4Connect the free ends of the 2 wires to the shut off switch on the condensate pump in

accordance with the condensate pump manufacturers recommenda ons.

Condensate Pump Wiring Loop22 AWG - White

(Loop Located Close to the Drain Connections)

White WiresFrom Water Heater

Wires to Condensate Pump Overflow Shut Off Switch

(22 AWG or Larger)

Figure 14 - Wiring Loop for connec on of Condensate Pump.

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Overflow Slot

Primary Drain Connection

Condensate Drain Access Cover

Condensate Pump Wiring Loop 22 AWG-White(Loop Located Close to the Drain Connections)

Secondary Drain Connection

Figure 15 - Condensate Pump Wiring

Step 6:Install Condensate Drain Lines:NOTE: When making condensa on connec ons to the primary connec- on DO NOT over ghten! These con-

nec ons should be HAND TIGHTENED ONLY. Over ghtening could crack or damage the condensate drain pan.

• Plas c pipe or tubing must be used to connect the condensate drain to a suitable drain or con-densate pump.

• Condensate drain lines should be installed in condi oned areas only. Install approved insula on on the condensate drain lines to prevent condensa on from form-ing on the outside of the drain lines. Condensa on drain lines installed in areas that are subject to freezing temperatures should be wrapped with a na onally recognized heat tape. Install per manufacturer’s instruc ons.

• Do not connect condensate drain lines with other drain or discharge lines into a single (com-mon) pipe or line. Each line (con-densate drain line, temperature and relief valve discharge pipe, etc.) should be independently run to an adequate drain.

• Slope the condensate drain lines toward the inside fl oor drain or condensate pump.

• The condensate drain lines and connec ons to the drain piping must comply with all local codes.

• Use appropriate fi ngs and primer to cement the condensate drains to the heat pump drain pan.

• If a condensate pump is installed, it should be wired to shut off the heat pump in the event the con-densate pump fails or the fl oat switch in the pump ac vates (see step 5 on page 11).

1Using 3/4” PVC piping, a 90° elbow that is 3/4” slip & 3/4” NPT and an approved sealant

(none supplied with unit), a ach the elbow to the primary drain connec- on and insert the PVC pipe into the

female end allowing enough length to access an adequate drain.

2Using 1/2” ID rubber or fl exi-ble plas c tubing, slip one end over the secondary drain

connec on allowing enough length to access an adequate drain.

Step 7:Connect the Tempera-ture and Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve/PipeMost T&P Relief Valves are pre-installed at the factory. In some cases, they are shipped in the carton and must be installed in the opening marked and provided for this purpose and according to local codes. .

WARNING! To avoid serious injury or death from explosion, install a T&P Relief Valve according to the following instruc ons:

If your water heater does not have a factory installed T&P Relief Valve, install the new T&P Relief Valve that came with your water heater. Do not reuse an old T&P Relief Valve. Install a T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe according to local codes and the fol-lowing guidelines:

1 The discharge pipe should be at least 3/4” inside diameter and sloped for proper

drainage. Install it to allow complete drainage of both the T&P Relief Valve and the discharge pipe.

2 The discharge pipe must withstand 250°F (121°C) without distor on. Use only

copper or CPVC pipe. Most homes use copper water pipes, but some use CPVC or cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Use fi ngs appropriate for the type of pipe in your home. Do not use any other type of pipe, such as PVC, iron, fl exible plas c pipe, or any type of hose.

Figure 16 - The T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe must be installed properly and piped to an adequate drain.

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3 Terminate the discharge pipe a maximum of six inches above a fl oor drain or outside

the building. Do not drain the dis-charge pipe into the drain pan; instead pipe it separately to an adequate drain. In cold climates, terminate the discharge pipe inside the building to an adequate drain. Outside drains could freeze and obstruct the drain line. Protect the drain from freezing.

DISCHARGE PIPE

DRAINPIPE

Figure 17 - The end of the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe must stop no more than six inches above a floor drain or outside.

4 Do not place any valve or other restric on between the tank and T&P Relief Valve. Do

not cap, block, plug, or insert any valve between the T&P Relief Valve and the end of the discharge pipe. Do not insert or install any reducer in the discharge pipe.

Step 8:Install shutoff andmixing valves

1If one is not already installed, install a manual shutoff valve in the cold water line that

supplies the water heater. Install the shutoff valve near the water heater so that it is readily accessible. Only use valves that are compa ble with

potable water. Use only full-fl ow ball or gate valves. Other types of valves may cause excessive restric on to the water fl ow.

2Install a Thermosta c Mixing Valve at each point-of-use (for example, kitchen sink,

bathroom sink, bath, shower). Consult the valve manufacturer’s instruc ons or a qualifi ed person.

Figure 18 - Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point where hot water will be used.

WARNING! Even if the water heater’s thermostat(s) are set to a rela vely low temperature, hot water can scald. Install Thermosta c Mixing Valves at each point-of-use to reduce the risk of scalding.

3For water heaters that are fed by a solar water hea ng system (or any other pre-heat-

ing system), always install a Thermo-sta c Mixing Valve or other tempera-ture limi ng device in the inlet water supply line to limit water supply inlet temperature to 120°F. Solar water hea ng systems can supply water with temperatures exceeding 170°F and may result in water heater malfunc on.

WARNING! Hot water provided by solar hea ng systems can cause severe burns instantly, resul ng in severe injury or death (page 4).

Step 9:Connect the watersupply

1 Determine the type of water pipes in your home. Most homes use copper water pipes,

but some use CPVC or cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Use fi ngs appropriate for the type of pipe in your home. Do not use iron or PVC pipe – they are not suitable for potable water.

2Connect the cold water supply using 3/4 inch Na onal Pipe Thread “NPT” to the blue cold

water connec on near the bo om of the heater.

For ease of removing the water heater for service or replacement, connect the water pipes with a coupling called a union. We recommend using a dielectric-type union (available at your local plumbing supplier ). Dielec-tric unions can help prevent corro-sion caused by tiny electric currents common in copper water pipes and can help extend the life of the water heater.

Recircula ng LoopIn order to optimize efficiency of this unit, it is not recommended for use with a recirculation loop. Using this in a recirculation loop may cause the unit to run excessively.

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IF YOU HAVE COPPER PIPES:

If your home has copper water pipes, you can solder the water pipe connec- ons or use compression fi ngs which

don’t require soldering. Compression fi ngs are easier to install than solder-ing pipe. Check with local plumbing of-fi cials to determine what types of pipe materials are suitable for your loca on. Do not use lead-based solder.

NOTICE: Do not solder pipes while they are a ached to the water heater. The water heater’s inlet and outlet connec- ons contain non-metallic parts which

could be damaged. The proper way to connect the water heater to copper water pipes is as follows:

• Solder a short length of pipe (about a foot or so) to a threaded adapter using only 95/5 n-an mony or equivalent solder. A ach the thread-ed adapters to the water heater’s connec ons (using Tefl on® tape or pipe joint compound). Connect the home’s water pipes by soldering, keeping the connec ons at the water heater cool with wet rags.

NOTE: Do not over apply joint com-pound.

NOTICE: This water heater model con-tains an outlet connec on (J-tube) that has an orienta on mark that must line up with arrow (in a 12 o’clock posi on).

3Connect the hot water supply using 3/4 inch NPT to the hot water outlet. Follow the same

connec on guidelines as for the cold water supply.

4Install insula on (or heat tape) on the water pipes especially if the indoor installa on area

is subject to freezing temperatures. Insula ng the hot water pipes can increase energy effi ciency.

5Double check to make sure the hot and cold water pipes are connected to the correct

hot and cold water fi ngs on the water heater.

6If needed, install (or adjust) the home’s Pressure Reducing Valve to 50-60 psi and install a

Thermal Expansion Tank.

Figure 19 - A Pressure Reducing Valve is required if your home’s water pressure is above 80 psi.

Figure 20 - The Thermal Expansion Tank should be pressurized with air, to match the home’s incoming water pressure.

Step 10:

Verify connec ons and completely fi ll tankTo remove air from the tank and allow the tank to fi ll completely with water, follow these steps:

1Remove the aerator at the nearest hot water faucet. This allows any debris in the tank

or plumbing system to be washed out.

2Turn the cold water supply back on.

Full-fl ow ball valve

Figure 21 - Fully open the cold water supply valve.

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INSTALLATION

Power SupplyConnectorBlack Wire

Red Wire

GreenGroundWire

1/2” ConduitOpening

Green Ground Screw

3Open a hot water faucet and allow the water to run un l it fl ows with a full stream.

4Let the water run full stream for three full minutes.

5Close the hot water faucet and replace the aerator.

6Check inlet and outlet connec- ons and water pipes for leaks.

Dry all pipes so that any drips or leaks will be apparent. Repair any leaks. Almost all leaks occur at connec- ons and are not a tank leak.

Step 11:Make electricalconnec ons

WARNING! Working on an ener-gized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock.

NOTICE: Do not turn electrical power on unless you are sure all of the air is out of the tank and the tank is com-pletely full of water. Although this water heater is equipped with “Dry Fire” pro-tec on, be certain all air is purged from the tank before making any electrical connec ons.

1Be sure the electrical power to the water heater is turned OFF at the circuit breaker panel (or

remove the circuit’s fuses).

2Using a non-contact circuit tester, check the wiring to make certain the power is OFF.

3This water heater requires a 240/208 VAC single phase 30 amp power supply, at 60Hz.

Check the water heater’s data plate (see fi gure 23 on page 15) and ensure that the home’s voltage, wiring size (ampacity) and circuit breaker ra ng and type are correct for this water heater. Refer to the wiring diagram located on the water heater for the correct electrical connec ons. Ensure that wire sizes, type, and connec ons comply with all applicable local codes. In the absence of local codes, follow NFPA-70 and the current edi on of the Na onal Electric Code (NEC).

Figure 22 - Connecting the electrical wires.

If metal conduit is used for the ground-ing conductor:• The grounding electrode conductor

shall be of copper, aluminum, or copperclad aluminum. The material shall be of one con nuous length without a splice or joint.

• Rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, or electrical metallic tubing may be used for the ground-ing means if conduit or tubing is terminated in fi ngs approved for grounding.

• Flexible metal conduit or fl exible metallic tubing shall be permi ed for grounding if all the following condi ons are met:

A. The length in any ground return path does not exceed 6 feet.B. The circuit conductors contained therein are protected by overcurrent devices rated at 30 amperes.C. The conduit or tubing is terminated in fi ngs approved for grounding.

For complete grounding details and all allowable excep ons, refer to the current edi on of the Na onal Electric Code NFPA 70.

Figure 23 - The water heater’s electrical requirements can be determined from the data plate.

4Remove the cover on the electrical junc on box on the side of the water heater.

5Install wiring in an approved conduit (if required by local codes). Use a UL listed or CSA

approved strain relief to secure the electrical wiring to the water heater.

6Connect the ground wire to the green ground screw. Connect the home’s two

power wires to the water heater’s two power wires. Use suitable wire nuts or other approved means to make the power connec ons.

7 Replace the junc on box cover and secure with the screw provided.

WARNING! Be sure cover is secured to reduce the risk of fi re and electric shock.

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OperationThe water heater is now ready for normal operation. To keep your water heater working safely and efficiently and extend its life, perform mainte-nance as described in maintenance section beginning on page 25.

Start-up and Opera onNOTE: The default opera ng mode is Hybrid, to select a diff erent mode see Opera ng Modes sec on on page 20.

PRIOR TO BEGINNING OPERATION:Air fi lter is factory installed with tabs oriented down for shipping. Please see maintenance sec on for instruc ons on removal, cleaning and replacing.

1Turn on electrical power to the water heater.

2Press the Mode/Enter bu on to set the opera ng mode.NOTICE: The water heater will

conduct a system diagnos c (approxi-mately 8 minutes) prior to returning to opera on.

3Once the diagnos c sequence has fi nished, the fan should turn on. This typically takes 8

minutes, (the User Interface Module will display “-”, “--”, “---” repe vely during this period).NOTICE: The heat pump’s fan will not turn on if the incoming water tempera-ture is less than 59°F/15°C and/or the ambient air temperature is above 120°F/15°C, or below 45°F/7.2°C. Should the internal diagnos cs detect a problem with the heat pump, an error code will be displayed.

4Set the desired opera onal mode. For typical installa ons, the factory default mode,

Hybrid Mode off ers the best combina- on of effi ciency and hot water

delivery. For detailed descrip ons of all

opera onal modes see “Adjus ng the User Interface Module/Opera onal Modes” sec on.

Step 12:

Adjus ng theTemperatureWith the installa on steps completed, you may adjust the water heater’s temperature se ng if desired.

1The water heater’s tempera-ture se ng has been factory set to approximately 120°F to

reduce the risk of scald injury. You may wish to set a higher temperature to provide hot water for automa c dishwashers or laundry machines, to provide more hot water capacity, and to reduce bacterial growth. Higher tank temperatures (140° F) kill bacteria that cause a condi on known as “smelly water” and can reduce the levels of bacteria that cause water-borne diseases.

WARNING! Higher temperatures increase the risk of scalding, but even at 120°F, hot water can scald (page 4).

If you increase the water heater’s tem-perature se ng, install Thermosta c Mixing Valve(s) at each point-of-use to reduce the risk of scalding.

Figure 24 - Adjust Thermostat Mixing Valves at each point-of-use 120°F or lower.

To adjust the water heater’s tempera-ture se ng:

• The water temperature setting can be adjusted by using the Up and Down buttons on the UIM (User Interface Module). Using the up or down buttons, cycle through the available temperature set points until the desired temper-ature is displayed. The temperature setting will blink on the display; press the Mode/Enter button to confirm the selection (see figure 26 on page 19).

• The available temperature set points can be cycled through quick-ly by pressing and holding the Up button.

2Please allow adequate me for the heater to provide hot water.

WARNING! If you have increased the temperature se ng and the Thermosta c Mixing Valves are not set properly (or not installed) you could scald yourself while checking the temperature.

3Check water temperature at several points of use in your home (for example, bathtub

faucet, shower, or lavatory sink) and adjust the Thermosta c Mixing Valves as needed. If you aren’t sure how to adjust the Thermosta c Mixing Valve se ngs, or aren’t sure if you have Thermosta c Mixing Valves, contact a qualifi ed person.

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INSTALLATIONPost Installa on Review

1Understand how to use the User Interface Module to set the various modes and

func ons.

2Hybrid Mode is the recom-mended Opera ng Mode. Understand the various

Opera ng Modes and which mode may be best, based on ambient temperature and hot water demands.

3Understand the importance of rou ne inspec on/ mainte-nance of the condensate drain

pan and lines. This is to prevent any possible drain line blockage resul ng in the condensate drain pan overfl owing.

NOTE: If water is coming from the overfl ow slot of the condensate drain access cover, this indicated that both condensate drain lines may be blocked and immediate ac on is required.

Overflow Slot

Drain Access Cover

Primary Drain

Secondary Drain

Figure 25 - Condensate Drain Access Cover

4To maintain op mal opera- on, check, remove and clean

the air fi lter as needed.

5The Installa on Instruc ons and Use and Care Guide should be kept with the water

heater for reference.

Water Temperature Ad-justmentThe water temperature can be adjusted from 95°F / 35°C to 140°F / 60°C. Use the Up and Down Bu ons

on the front panel to set the desired temperature (see fi gure 26 on page 19). The se ng temperature will blink on the display, press Mode/Enter bu on to confi rm.The water temperature can be adjusted quickly by pressing the “Temperature Up” bu on and holding for three seconds.

NOTE: Before a emp ng to adjust the thermostat, read the “Water Temperature Regula on” sec on. If the instruc ons are not clear, contact a qualifi ed person.

NOTE: For increased water demand, switching (temporarily) to Hybrid Mode or Electric Mode will decrease the recovery/re-heat me. Be sure to switch back to the desired opera onal mode when fi nished.

Opera ng Mode De-scrip onsThe opera ng modes can be changed sequen ally by pressing the Mode/Enter bu on (Figure 26, page 19). The Opera on Mode Indica on Light will turn on when the relevant mode is selected. This unit is equipped with technology that senses the hot water demand from the unit. While in Effi ciency or Hybrid mode, during normal usage, the unit will operate the heat pump for maximum effi ciency. In mes that the water usage is above normal, this

unit has the ability to use one element (upper or lower) and the heat pump simultaneously to help improve recovery. This transi on is seamless and will go unno ced.

Efficiency Mode -

Provides the highest efficiency and lowest cost operation by using only the heat pump for heating. Recovery time and efficiency will vary with ambient temperature and relative humidity. Efficiency will be greatest, and recovery quickest, when both are high. At lower temperatures and relative humidity levels, efficiency will be lower and recovery will take longer. Heat pump operation is allowed between 45°F / 7.2°C to 120°F / 48.8°C ambient temperature. At ambient temperatures lower than 45°F / 7.2°C and greater than 120°F / 48.8°C, the heat pump will not operate. Similarly, if the water temperature in the tank is less than 59°F / 15°C, the heat pump will not operate. The unit will operate in electric mode until ambient and water temperatures return to the safe operating range of the heat pump.

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Hybrid Mode -

This is the default, recommended setting, combining high energy efficiency with reduced recovery time. This mode uses the heat pump as the primary heating source. The heating element will heat water if demand exceeds a predetermined level so that the set point temperature can be recovered more quickly.

Electric Mode -

The water heater functions as a conventional electric unit, relying on only the elements for heat. This mode may be useful in periods of increased hot water demands. Electric Mode will remain for 48 hours before reverting back to default mode setting.

Vacation Mode -

The controller will not allow the temperature to drop below 60°F while in Vacation setting. This mode is recommended when the water heater is not in use for a long period of time, to minimize energy consumption and prevent the water heater from freezing during cold conditions.

C AUTION! Hydrogen gas builds up in a hot water system when it is not used for a long period (two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely fl ammable. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, open a hot water faucet for several minutes at the kitchen sink before using any electrical appliances connected to the hot water system. Do not smoke or have an open fl ame or other igni on source near the fau-cet while it is open.

NOTE: When Vacation Mode is selected, the vacation timer will be displayed. Press the Up and Down button to modify the timer to desired number of vacation days (setting range: 1 to 99 days). The vacation timer will blink on the display; press the Mode/Enter button to confirm the vacation timer. To deactivate Vacation Mode, press the Mode/Enter button to switch to the desired mode.

NOTE: Do not shut off power to the unit for extended periods of time. If power must be turned off for an extended period of time, drain the tank completely.

Other Controls°F/°C Switch - Press “Temperature Down” button and hold for 3 seconds to switch temperature unit between Farenheit and Celsius

Power Saver Enable/Disable:

• Press “Mode/Enter” button and hold for 3 seconds. The power saver feature will be activated and the display will show “P.S.” (not to be mistaken with P5), and the setting temperature alterna-tively. This feature allows the unit to be managed by grid or other utility based load management programs.

• To deactivate the power saver, press “Mode/Enter” button and hold for 3 seconds.

Heat pump defrosting indication:

• There will be frost accumulat-ing on the evaporator when the heat pump is operated under low ambient temperatures. The con-troller will order the unit to enter into defrosting cycle to optimize the heat pump operation per-formance. During the defrosting period, the user interface module will display “ICE” as an indication.

Out of heat pump operation range:

• The user interface module will display “HPO” as an indication that the ambient and/or water temperature condition is out of the heat pump operation range.

NOTE: The display will go into “Sleep Mode” for energy saving if there is no operation on any button for 15 min-utes. All the display and lights will be turned off except for the “Operational Mode Indication Light”, which will remain illuminated while the unit is powered on. The unit can be awak-ened by pressing any button.

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Figure 29 - User Interface Module (UIM) Display

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Vacuum Relief Valve(when required by local code)

Cold Water Inlet Valve

Massachusetts: Install a vacuum relief in cold water line per section 19 MGL 142.

Cold Water Inlet

Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV)should be installed where the watersupply enters the residence.When installed PRVs create a closed water system, a thermalexpansion tank must be installed.

* If an adequate drain is not available for the condensate drain lines then a condensate pump must be used. DO NOT discharge the condensate drain lines into the metal drain pan.

In a closed system, use athermal expansion tank.See “Closed System/Thermal Expansion”section.

6” Maximum Air Gap

Shut-off Valve(Cold)

*Primary Condensate Drain (3/4” PVC)

Tempered Water to Fixtures

Optional Mixing Valve - Follow the Mixing Valve’s Manufacturer’s InstallationInstructions. (Set to 120°F / 48.8°C)

Untempered Water Outlet

Shut-off Valve (Hot)

Union

Drain Line 1” ID Minimum

Drain Pan 2 1/2” Depth Maximum and2 Inches wider thanthe water heater.

Discharge Pipe(Do Not Cap or Plug)

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

Union

Drain

Cold(Inlet)

Hot(Outlet)

Optional Heat Trap Piping

1/2” FlexibleSecondaryCondensateTubing

Union

Figure 30 - Completed Water System Piping

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NOTE: The diagnostic codes listed above are the most common. If a diagnostic code not listed above is displayed, contact Residential Technical Assistance referencing the number on the front of this manual.

DIAGNOSTIC CODES

DISPLAY SHOWS INDICATES CORRECTIVE ACTION“-”,”--”,”---” Unit is doing a system

diagnostic.

Normal operation--no actionICE Heat pump is in defrosting

cycle.

HPO Ambient temperature 45°F-120°F, average tank temperature of 59°F or less.

EUC Upper element is notfunctioning

1. Turn off power at the circuit breaker/fuse box and check for a loose connection at the element. For access directions see “Heating Element Replacement” section. If error persists proceed to the next step.

2. Replace non-functioning element. See “Replacing the Heating Element” section on page 27.

ELC Lower element is notfunctioning

1. Turn off power at the circuit breaker/fuse box and check for a loose connection at the element. For access directions see “Heating Element Replacement” section. If error persists proceed to the next step.

2. Replace non-functioning element. See “Replacing the Heating Element” section on page 27.

SF The air filter is dirty. 1. Turn off power at the circuit breaker/fuse box.2. Clean the air filter. See “Air Filter Maintenance” section

on page 30. ECF The heat pump compressor is

starting/stopping frequently.1. Turn off power at the circuit breaker/fuse box.2. Clean the air filter. See “Air Filter Maintenance” section

on page 30.3. If error persist, please contact a qualified person to

check the fan wire connection.E20 or E21 Upper Temperature Sensor is

not functioning.

Contact a qualified person to service the unit.

E30 or E31 Lower Temperature Sensor is not functioning.

E50 or E51 Heat Pump Suction Temperature Sensor is not functioning.

E10 or E11 Heat Pump Coil Temperature Sensor is not functioning.

E40 or E41 Heat Pump Discharge Temperature Sensor is not functioning.

Edr Not enough water in the tank (tank not full). This is also referred to as “Dry Fire”.

Refer to “Verify Connections and Completely Fill Tank” section on page 14.-Open all hot water taps in home and run until water (uninterrupted) flows from all open hot water taps.

EPL Power supply voltage is too low. Check the power supply to the unit and make sure it is higher than 187V. For further information refer to Step 11 on page 15

EDH Heat Pump Discharge Temperature is too high.

Contact a qualified technician to service the unit.

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DISPLAY SHOWS INDICATES CORRECTIVE ACTION

EoF(If Accessory Condensate Pump is installed)

Condensate pump failure. 1. Check to see if accessory condensate pump is plugged in and has power. Also check circuit breaker/fuse box and GFCI (if used). If error persists, proceed to the next step.

2. Check condensate pump outlet tube for blockage. If error persists, proceed to the next step.

3. Check control wire connections to condensate pump. If error persists, proceed to the next step.

4. Replace accessory condensate pump. If error persists, contact a qualified technician to service the unit.

ECL Heat pump suction pressure is too low.

Contact a qualified technician to service the unit

EEE EEPROM failure

ECC Heat pump compressor is not functioning.

ECE Power supply error.

NOTE: The diagnostic codes listed above are the most common. If a diagnostic code not listed above is displayed, contact Residential Technical Assistance referencing the number on the front of this manual.

DIAGNOSTIC CODES

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PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) CORRECTIVE ACTIONNO HOT WATER 1. No power to the water heater (No

lights on the unit are on).

2. Unit in Vacation mode

3. ECO open

4. Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in cur-rent mode

5. Non-functioning upper temperature sensor

6. Faulty thermostatic mixing valve.7. Leak in plumbing system

1. Check for blown fuse or tripped breaker.Restore power to unit.

2. Press Mode/Enter button and return to desired operating mode.

3. Reset the high temperature limit switch; see “Safety shut-off” section for more informa-tion.

4. Change to different mode or modify usage patterns.

5. Contact a qualified person for service.

6. Check hot water at other faucets.7. Check hot water side of home’s plumbing

system for leaks.INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER/ SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY(page 25)

1. Temperature set-point too low

2. Air filter dirty3. Hot water usage pattern exceeds the

capability of the water heater in cur-rent mode

4. Water connections to unit reversed

5. Heat lost through long run of exposed pipe

6. Hot water leak at faucet or piping7. Non-functioning heating element8. Sediment or scale build up in tank

9. Incorrectly installed outlet j-tube.

10. Thermostatic mixing valve faulty/set too low.

11. Low supply voltage.

1. Increase set point temperature; see “Adjusting the Temperature” section on page 16.

2. Clean air filter3. Change to different mode or modify usage

patterns (For example if in Efficiency Mode switch to Hybrid Mode)

4. Ensure the cold connection is at the bottom and that the hot connection is at the top

5. Insulate exposed piping

6. Repair hot water leaks7. Call qualified person for service8. Drain and flush tank. Water conditioning

may be necessary to minimize build up9. Check orientation of alignment mark with

arrow, re-install if necessary.10. Check hot water at other faucets.

11. Check power (voltage).TEMPERATURE TOO HIGH(page 25)

1. Non functioning thermostat.2. Grounded/shorted heating element.3. Thermostatic mixing valve faulty.

1. Replace thermostat.2. Replace heating element.3. Check hot water at other faucets.

LOW WATER PRESSURE(page 25)

1. Partially closed supply valve 1. Open supply valve completely.

WATER ODOR(page 24)

1. A concentration of sulfate in the sup-ply water

2. Little or no disolved oxygen in the water

3. A sulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated within the water heater (this harmless bacteria is nontoxic to humans).

4. An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by the corrosion-protective action of the anode.

1. Replace anode.

SOUNDS(page 24)

1. Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down.

2. Sediment buildup on or around the elements.

3. The heat pump compressor or fan running.

1. No action required.

2. Drain and flush the tank as directed under the “Draining and Flushing” section.

3. No action required.

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PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) CORRECTIVE ACTIONDRIP FROM TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE(page 24)

1. Excessive water pressure

2. Add or service a thermal expansion tank.

3. Non-functioning Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve

4. Debris under valve seat.

1. Check water supply inlet pressure. If higher than 80 PSIG, install a pressure reducing valve (50-60 PSIG is the recommended pres-sure.)

2. See “Water Pressure Increase Caused by Ther-mal Expansion” section on page 7.

3. Replace the Temperature & PressureRelief Valve

4. See “Drips from T&P Relief Valve Discharge Pipe” section on page 24.

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

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WARNING! Working near an ener-gized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock.

WARNING! When you are fi nished, be sure all covers are secured to re-duce the risk of fi re and electric shock.

No Hot WaterThe most likely reasons for an electric water heater to produce NO hot water are:

• No electric power - a common prob-lem with new installations

• Tripped ECO (Energy Cut Off)

• The water heater’s inlet and outlet connections are reversed (usually only in new installations)

• A leak in the hot water side of the plumbing system that exceeds the water heater’s heating capacity and makes it appear that the water heat-er is producing little to no hot water

Follow these steps to diagnose and correct common electrical problems:

1Check the electrical power to the water heater. No hot water is o en caused by a

problem with the homes electrical wiring or circuit breakers. You’ll need a non-contact circuit tester. Follow these guidlines:

• Locate the water heater’s circuit breaker and turn it off (or remove the circuit’s fuses).

• Locate the electrical junction box on the side of the water heater and remove the cover.

• Identify the two power wires. The power wires are usually black/black or black/red-the green or copper wire is the ground wire.

Figure 26 - Use a non-contact circuit tester to check for electrical power.• Turn the circuit breaker back on

(or install the fuses) and check the power on both incoming power wires using a non-contact circuit tester.

• Turn the power off and replace the cover on the electrical junction box.

If the water heater is not getting power, contact a qualified person to have your homes wiring or circuit breakers checked.

2Check the upper hea ng element. If the water heater is ge ng electrical power, check

to see if the upper hea ng element is burned out. If the upper element is burned out, you’ll have no hot water. To check the upper element, you’ll need a mul meter capable of readung resistance.

• Turn the power OFF at the circuit breaker or remove fuses.

• Remove the upper access panel.

• Move the insulation to the side to access the ECO and heating ele-ment.

3Check the top two screws of the ECO using a non-contact circuit tester and confi rm that

power is off ( screw terminals 1 and 3 in photo on next page).

• WIth the electrical power off, remove the two power wires from the upper heating element.

Figure 27 - Use a multi meter to check the resistance of the upper heating element.

4Check the resistance of the upper hea ng element using a mul meter. Measure the

resistance between the two screw terminals on the upper hea ng element. A good element will have a resistance ranging between 5 and 25 Ohms. If the resistance is:

Outside this range. Replace the ele-ment (see the Rou ne Maintenance sec on on page 28). On a new water heater, a burned out

Within this range. Rea ach the power wires, making sure the wires are in good condi on and the connec ons are clean and ght. Next check the following:

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5Check/Reset Energy Cut Off ECO Bu on.

Reset Button

1 2

Figure 28 - Energy Cut Off (ECO) buttonThe Energy Cut Off (ECO) shuts off power to the water heater’s elements if the temperature of the water in the tank gets too hot. If the ECO has tripped, you’ll have no hot water. A tripped ECO can usually be reset, but you should have a qualifi ed person inves gate the cause of the overheat-ing and repair the problem. DO not turn the power back on un l the cause of the overhea ng has been iden fi ed and repaired.

To check the Energy Cut Off (ECO)

• Turn off the power to the water heater.

WARNING! Working near an ener-gized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock. Check power wires in the electrical junc on box with a non-contact circuit tester to make sure power is off .

• Press the red ECO reset button (see photo above).

• The ECO was tripped if you hear a click when it is reset. In most cases a tripped ECO indicates that the tank overheated due to a problem with one of the elements-have a qualified person check the upper and lower elements and replace if necessary.

• The ECO was not tripped if you didn’t hear a click. In that case it should be checked by a qualified person.

• Replace the insulation and the upper access panel.

• Turn the power back on to the water heater.

WARNING! Be sure all covers are secured to reduce the risk of fi re and electric shock.

Drips from T&P Relief Valve Discharge PipeA small amount of water dripping from the Temperature and Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve usually means the home’s water pressure is too high or you need a properly sized and pressurized Ther-mal Expansion Tank. Refer to Step 1 in the Installa on sec on of this manual for more informa on. A large amount of hot water coming from the T&P discharge pipe may be due to the tank overhea ng.

WARNING! Do not cap or plug the T&P relief valve or discharge pipe, and do not operate the water heater without a func oning T&P Relief Valve - this could cause an explosion.

Water pressure too high. High water pressure can cause the T&P Relief Valve to drip. Install a Pressure Reduc-ing Valve (PRV) on the main cold water supply line. Adjust the PRV to between 50 and 60 psi.

Thermal Expansion Tank. Install a Thermal Expansion Tank. If a Thermal Expansion Tank is already installed and the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe drips, the Thermal Expansion Tank may be pressurized to the wrong pres-

sure or the internal bladder may be defec ve. Refer to the instruc ons that came with the Thermal Expansion Tank for more informa on.

Debris. In rare cases, debris can s ck inside the T&P Relief Valve preven ng the valve from sea ng fully. In that case, the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe will drip. You may be able to clear debris from the T&P Relief Valve by manually opera ng the valve, allowing small quan es of water to fl ush out the debris. See the label on the T&P Relief Valve for instruc ons.

If the water pressure is between 50 and 60 psi, a Thermal Expansion Tank is installed and properly pressurized, and the valve has been cleared of any debris, and it s ll drips, the valve may be broken—have a qualifi ed person replace the T&P relief valve.

Water OdorHarmless bacteria normally present in tap water can mul ply in water heat-ers and give off a “ro en egg” smell. Although elimina ng the bacteria that causes “smelly water” with a Chlorina- on system is the only sure treatment,

in some cases, the standard anode rod that came with your water heater can be replaced with a special zinc anode rod which may help reduce or eliminate the odor. Contact a qualifi ed person.

NOTE: To protect the tank, an anode rod must be installed in the water heater at all mes or the warranty is void.

In cases where the “ro en egg” smell is pronounced, you can raise the tank temperature to 140°F in order to re-duce bacteria growth in the tank.

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WARNING! Because higher tempera-tures increase the risk of scalding, if you set the thermostat(s) higher than 120°F, Thermosta c Mixing Valves at each point-of-use are par cularly important (page 4).

Water Heater SoundsDuring the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or noises may be heard. These noises are common and may result from the following:

• Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down.

• Sediment buildup on or around the elements could create varying amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure. Drain and flush the tank as directed under the “Draining and Flushing” section.

The heat pump compressor or fan running.

Temperature Too HighIf the water temperature is too hot:

• Install or adjust the Thermostatic Mixing Valves for each point-of-use (see manufacturer’s instructions), or

• Adjust the thermostat(s) on the water heater (see Step 10 in the installation section of this manual).

A nonfunc oning thermostat or a shorted hea ng element can cause extremely hot water. If the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve) releases large amounts of very hot wa-ter, it is likely due to a shorted hea ng element, or more rarely a nonfunc on-ing thermostat, or the thermostat does not fi t snuggly against the tank. Very high water temperatures can also cause the Energy Cut Off (ECO) to trip (see page 19). Turn power off un l this problem is fi xed.

Low Water PressureCheck both the cold and hot water at a sink to determine if the lower pressure is only on the hot water side. If both hot and cold faucets have low pressure, call your local water u lity. If the low pres-sure is only on the hot water side, the primary causes of this are:

• Melted heat traps or dip tube. Solder-ing copper pipes while they are con-nected to the water heater can melt the heat traps inside the hot and cold water connections or the dip tube (cold water side). Melted heat traps or a melted dip tube can restrict the flow of hot water. If that’s the case, replace the heat traps or dip tube.

Par ally closed supply valve. Open the water heater’s supply valve fully.

Insufficient Hot Water or Slow Hot Water Re-covery

WARNING! Because of the increased risk of scalding, if you set the water heater’s User Interface Module (UIM) higher than 120°F, Thermosta c Mixing Valves at each point-of-use are par cu-larly important (page 4).

If the hot water is simply not warm enough, there are several possible causes:

• Faulty Thermostatic Mixing Valve in a faucet of shower control (check other faucets in the house for hot water).

• The User Interface Module (UIM) temperature set too low.

• Water heater’s capacity too small (or usage too high).

• Reversed plumbing connections or melted J-tube (usually found soon after installation).

• Plumbing leak

• Bad lower heating element

• Low supply voltage.

Thermosta c Mixing Valves. If the hot water is simply not warm enough, make sure the faucet you are checkingdoesnt have a defec ve Thermosta c Mix-ing Valve. Many shower controls have built-in mixing valves. If these devices fail, they can reduce the amount of hot water the shower of faucet delivers even though there is plenty of hot wa-ter in the tank. Always check the water temperature at several faucets to make sure the problem is not in a faucet or shower control.

User Interface Module (UIM) set too low. If the water temperature at several faucets is too cool, adjust the UIM ac-cording to the instruc ons in Step 12 of the Installa on sec on of this manual.

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Undersized water heater. If your water heater runs out of hot water too quickly, it may be too small for your needs. If the water heater is old, con-sider replacing it with a larger model. If the water heater is in good condi on, you may be able to meet your fami-lies hot water needs with the exis ng water heater by installing Thermosta c Mixing Valves at easch point-of-use and then se ng the temperature to a higher se ng on the UIM. See “Step 12” on page 16.

You can also reduce your homes hot water needs by washing clothes in cold water, installing fl ow restrictors on shower heads, repairing leaky faucets, and taking other conserva ve steps.

Reversed connec ons or melted J-tube. Check the hot and cold connec- ons and make sure your homes hot

water pipe is connected to the hot wa-ter outlet on the water heater. Usually reversed connec ons are found soon a er the installa on of a new unit. If copper pipes were soldered while they were a ached to the water heater, the J-tube may have melted. The J-tube is a curved plas c tube inside the tank a ached to the cold water inlet. If the J-tube has melted, it can be replaced by removing the old J-tube and install-ing a new one.

Plumbing leak. Even a small leak in the hot water side of the homes plumbing system can make it appear that the water heater is producing li le or no hot water. Locate and repair the leak.

Lower hea ng element not working. If the lower hea ng element is not work-ing, you will have some hot water but not as much as before. Because the lower element does most of the work, it usually wears out before the upper element. Replace the lower element if necessary (see page 27).

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Rou ne MaintenanceRou ne maintenance will help your water heater last longer and work bet-ter. If you cant perform these rou ne maintenance tasks yourself, contact a qualifi ed person.

Water Heater Mainte-nanceA er the fi rst six months, drain and fl ush the water heater and inspect the anode rod. Depending on the hardness of your water, repeat this process at least annually, or more frequently if needed. From me to me you may need to replace a hea ng element or a thermostat. All three maintenance tasks are described below

Draining and Flushing the Water HeaterTap water contains minerals that can form lime deposits on hea ng ele-ments or sediment in the bo om of the tank. The amount of lime deposits or sediment depends on the hardness of your tap water. The rate at which sediment builds up depends on water quality and hardness in your area, the temperature se ngs, and other variables. We recommend draining and fl ushing the water heater a er the fi rst six months of opera on to determine the amount of sediment build up. Draining sediment extends the life of the tank, hea ng elements, and drain valves.

• In areas with very hard water, remove and check the heating elements whenever you drain the tank. If you have heavy lime depos-its on heating elements, you will need to replace them more often.

• Sediment may form large masses that can prevent the tank from draining. Have a qualified person use a de-lim-ing agent suitable for potable water to remove the sediment buildup.

• In most cases, it is easier and cheaper to replace lime-encrusted elements than trying to remove heavy lime deposits.

To drain and fl ush the tank:

1Locate the water heater’s circuit breaker and turn it OFF (or remove the circuit’s fuses).

Figure 31 - Circuit Breaker

2Open a hot water faucet and let the hot water run un l it is cool.

Figure 32 - Water Faucet

WARNING! Be sure the water runs cool before draining the tank to reduce the risk of scalding.

3Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and place the other end of the hose in a

drain, outside, or in buckets.

4Turn the cold water supply valve OFF.

5Open the drain valve on the water heater.

Figure 33 - Drain Valve

6Open a hot water faucet to help the water in the tank drain faster.

NOTICE: DO NOT turn electrical power back on unless the tank is completely full of water.

7Remove and inspect the anode rod (see Repair Parts Illustra on on back cover for

loca on of the anode rod). Replace the anode rod if it is depleted.

Figure 34 - Anode Rods from new (top) to partially depleted (middle) to fully depleted staged (bottom)

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Anode Rod. The anode rod is a sac-rifi cial metal rod that helps reduce corrosion and premature failure (leaks) in the tank. The anode rod is a consum-able item. Inspect the anode rod a er the fi rst six months of opera on when you drain and fl ush the tank. Replace the anode rod if it is substan ally worn out or depleted. Therea er, inspect the anode rod annually or more frequently if needed. If you use a water so ener, your anode rod will deplete faster than normal. Inspect the anode rod more frequently, replacing the anode rod as needed. Obtain new anode rods from your local plumbing supplier or have a qualifi ed person replace it. (Anode rods are a consumable item and are not covered under warranty).

8 If the sediment was present when the tank was drained, fl ush the tank by opening the

cold water supply valve and le ng the water run un l no more sediment drains from the tank. Close the drain valve when you are done.

NOTICE: Do not turn power back on un l the tank is completely full of wa-ter. For complete instruc ons on fi lling the tank, follow Step 10 in the Installa- on sec on.

9Refi ll the tank by opening the cold water supply valve. Make sure a hot water faucet is

open and the drain valve is closed. Allow the hot water to run full for at least three minutes to make sure the tank has all the air removed and is completely full of water. Failure to perform this step can cause the upper hea ng element to burn out. Once you are certain the tank is completely full of water, close the hot water faucet.

10Restore power to the water heater. It may take two hours for the tank to heat up.

Replacing the Hea ng Element

WARNING! Working on an ener-gized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock. Turn power off . Check wires with a non-contact circuit tester to make sure power is off . When you are fi nished, be sure all covers are secured to re-duce the risk of fi re and electric shock.

If you are not comfortable replacing a hea ng element or thermostat your-self, have this work done by a qualifi ed person. To replace the hea ng ele-ment, you’ll need the following tools and supplies:

Figure 35 - Non-Contact Circuit Tester

• Always turn power OFF and check the power wires with a non-contact circuit tester before working on the water heater.

Figure 36 - Heating Element (with gasket)

• Check your water heater’s data plate for the correct wattage and voltage. Heating elements are available your local plumber sup-plier.

Figure 37 - Element Wrench

• Some regular sockets (1 1/2 inch) may work, but regular sockets are

often beveled and may slip. Inex-pensive element wrenches are available at your local plumber sup-plier.

• Garden hose to drain the tank

• Hand dishwashing soap to lubricate the gasket

• A clean cloth to clean the threaded opening

• A flat blade and a Phillips screw-driver

Steps for Replacing the Hea ngElement:

1Turn the power OFF at the circuit breaker or remove fuses.

Figure 38 - Circuit Breaker

2Open the electrical junc on box on the side of the water heater. Using a non-contact

circuit tester, check the power wires to make certain the power is OFF.


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3Open a hot water faucet and let the hot water run un l it is cool.

Figure 40 - Water Faucet WARNING! Be sure the water runs

cool before draining the tank to re-duce the risk of scalding.

4Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and place the other end of the hose in a drain or

outside (or use buckets). Turn OFF the cold water valve that supplies the water heater. Open the drain valve on the water heater. Opening a hot water faucet will help the tank drain faster.

5 Remove the upper or lower access panel on the water heater, and then fold back the

insula on and remove the plas c element/thermostat cover.

Figure 41 - Access Panel

6With the tank drained and power off , remove the power wires from the element you

intend to replace.

7Remove the bad element using an element wrench.

8Make sure the new element is the correct replacement by referring to the water heater’s

data plate for voltage and wa age informa on.

9 Clean the threads in the tank opening with a rag. Insert the new element equipped with a

rubber gasket. NOTE: Use a drop of hand dishwashing liquid to lubricate the gasket to help avoid damaging the gasket as it is being ghtened. Tighten with an element wrench.

NOTICE: Do not turn power back on un l the tank is completely full of water. For complete instruc ons on fi lling the tank, follow Step 10 in the Installa on sec on.

10Refi ll the tank by opening the cold water supply valve. Make sure a hot water faucet is

open and the drain valve is closed. Allow the hot water to run full for at least three minutes to make sure the tank has all the air removed and is completely full of water. Failure to perform this step can cause the upper hea ng element to burn out. Once you are certain the tank is completely full of water, close the hot water faucet.

Figure 42 - Drain Valve

11Check the newly installed element for leaks. If a leak is present, ghten the element

un l the leak stops. If you cannot stop the leak, drain the tank and remove the element. Inspect the gasket for damage. If the gasket is damaged, replace the gasket and re-install the element.

12Once the element is success-fully installed and there are no leaks, replace the power

wires, thermostat cover, insula on, and access panel. Make sure all wire connec ons are ght. Replace the cover on the electrical junc on box.


Replacing the ECO WARNING! Working on an ener-

gized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock. Turn power off . Check wires with a non-contact circuit tester to make sure power is off . When you are fi nished, be sure all covers are secured to re-duce the risk of fi re and electric shock.

To replace the ECO, you’ll need the fol-lowing tools and supplies:

• A non-contact circuit tester. Always turn power OFF and check with a non-contact circuit tester before working on the water heater.

Figure 43 - ECO

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• A replacement ECO (available by calling the number in the repair parts list located on page 30). A business card to check the gap between the ECO and tank.

• Tape and a permanent marker to mark the wires

• A flat blade and a Phillips screw-driver

Steps for Replacing theECO:

1Turn the power OFF at the circuit breaker or remove fuses.

NOTICE: It is not necessary to drain the tank to replace an ECO.

2Open the electrical junc on box the side of the water heater. Using a non-contact circuit

tester, check the power wires to make certain the power is OFF.

Junction Box

Power SupplyConnectorBlack Wire

Red Wire

GreenGroundWire

1/2” ConduitOpening

Green Ground Screw


3Remove the upper access panel on the water heater and carefully fold back the

insula on and plas c element/ECO cover (See fi gure 42 on page 28).

4Make sure the replacement ECO matches the original ECO.

5Mark the wires with tape so you’ll know how to put them back on.

6Disconnect the wires from the bad ECO and remove the ECO from the metal moun ng clip.

7Install the new ECO in the metal moun ng clip.

8Make sure the new ECO fi ts snuggly against the tank. You should NOT be able to slip a

business card between the ECO and the tank. If you can, bend the ECO moun ng clip un l the ECO fi ts ghtly against the tank.

9A ach the wires following the wiring diagram on the water heater’s label. Make sure all

wire connec ons are ght.

10Replace the plas c element/ECO cover, insula on, and access panel.

11Replace the cover on the electrical junc on box.


Figure 45 - Element Access Panel/ECO

Compartment

T&P Relief Valve Main-tenanceRead and follow the opera ng and annual maintenance instruc ons provided by the manufacturer of the T&P Relief Valve (yellow label a ached to T&P Relief Valve). Minerals in the water can form deposits that cause the valve to s ck or create blocked passages, making the T&P Relief Valve inopera ve. Follow these guidelines:

• At least annually, operate the T&P Relief Valve manually to ensure the waterways are clear and the valve mechanism moves freely (above). Before operating the valve manu-ally, check that it will discharge in a place for secure disposal. If water does not flow freely from the end of the discharge pipe, turn OFF the power to the water heater. Call a qualified person to determine the cause.

WARNING! Hot water will be released. Before opera ng the T&P relief valve manually, check that it will discharge in a safe place. If water does not fl ow freely from the end of the discharge pipe, turn the power to the water heater OFF. Call a qualifi ed person to determine the cause.

Figure 46 - T&P Relief Valve

• At least every five years, have a qualified person inspect the T&P Relief Valve and discharge pipe.

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Damage caused by corrosive water conditions, mineral deposits, or other problems can only be deter-mined when a qualified person removes and inspects the valve and its components.

• Note that a dripping T&P Relief Valve is usually caused by the home’s water pressure being too high or the lack of a Thermal Expansion Tank. If your T&P Relief Valve drips refer to “Drips from T&P Relief Valve Discharge Pipe” section on page 24.

Air Filter MaintenanceThe heater will monitor the heat pump opera on status and indicate whether the fi lter should be cleaned. If the User Interface Module displays “SF” code, this indicates the fi lter should be cleaned or replaced with the following process (See exploded view of unit on last page for air fi lter loca on).

NOTE: Before a emp ng to clean or replace the air fi lter, turn off power to the water heater at the circuit breaker/fuse box.

1Take the two tabs on the air fi lter and remove (slide) it from the top cover of the unit.

2If you are replacing the fi lter, skip to step four. To clean the fi lter, use a vacuum with a

hose a achment to remove any dust or debris.

3Place the new or cleaned fi lter into the water heater.

4Restore power to the water heater and turn the water heater on.

NOTE: The water heater may conduct a system diagnos c prior to opera on.

Condensate Drain MaintenanceNOTE: Before a emp ng to clean the condensate drain pan or lines shut off power to the water heater at the circuit breaker/fuse box.

1Remove the top shroud by loosening the screws securing it to the unit.

2Check the condensate drain pan and drain lines for any dirt or debris that might interfere

with proper drainage. Wipe out any dirt or debris with a damp cloth.

3Once the condensate drain pan and lines have been inspected/cleaned, secure the

shroud back to the top of the water heater.

4Restore power to the water heater and turn the water heater on.

NOTE: The water heater will conduct a system diagnos c prior to opera on.

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REPAIR PARTS ILLUSTRATION

ITEM

NO.PARTS DESCRIPTION

1 Element Access Cover2 Element (4500 Wa s)3 Energy Cut-Off (ECO) Switch 4 Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P)5 J-Tube (at hot water outlet; sizes for J-tubes are

dependent upon capacity of water heater)6 Anode (Op onal for 50 and 66 gallon models)7 Controller8 Air Filter9 Fan Assembly

10 Drain Valve - Brass - 2 inch11 Personnel Protector12 Ambient / Coil / Discharge Temperature Sensor

Assembly*13 Upper / Lower Tank Temperature Sensor Assembly*14 Fan Shroud15 Condensate Drain Access Cover 16 Electronic Expansion Valve Coil17 Run Capacitor*18 Relay Kit*19 Condensate Drain Pan20 Smart Grid Cover21 Element Access Panel22 Condensation Pump Wiring Harness*23 Anode (Optional for 66 and 80 gallon models)*24 Anode (Optional for 80 gallon models)*

REPAIR PARTSRepair parts may be ordered through your plumber, local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling1-800-527-1953. When ordering repair parts always give the following informa on:

1. Model, serial and product number

2. Item number

3. Parts descrip on

REPAIR PARTS LIST

* NOT SHOWN

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NOTES

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