Washing Principle Denim Dystar

80
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 An Introduction to Washing Principles and Products

Transcript of Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Page 1: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

An Introduction to Washing Principles and

Products

Page 2: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Mechanism differences

vertical We have to be carefull about 3 main parameters at laundry machines. These 3 parameters are;

1-rotation speed of the machine

2-falling height (depends on loading capacity, water amount, wing structure and rotation speed)

3-Machine surface area and structure (depends on the type of machine (vertical or horizontal) and amounts and size of the holes at the surface of machine)

For the best results during the rotation of the machine from left to right, wings of the machine has to throw the garments from hour 11 point to hour 5 point. This adjustment can be done by arranging the loading amount-water level-and rotation speed. This equilibrium is the best level for optimum effect and safe wash. If the falling point passes over 12 then abrasion will be lost, if the falling point occurs before or around 9 again abrasion will be lost and in both cases related to the structure of the fabric risk of crease increases too much.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Mechanism differences

ROTATION SPEED

LIQOUR RATIO

RELATION

LOW LIQOUR RATIO

MEDIUM LIQOUR RATIO

HIGH LIQOUR RATIO

LOW ROTATION SPEED

RISKY WASHING ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

OPTIMUM WASHING POINT 2

MEDIUM ROTATION SPEED

ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

HIGH ROTATION SPEED

OPTIMUM WASHING 1

ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

RISKY WASHING

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

WASHING MACHINERYVertical Drum

-sophisticated

-high degree of automation / control

-various sizes up to 750 kg capacity

-more common in Europe/ North Africa/ Americas

BARREL

-simple

-lower degree of sophistication

-more aggressive action

-more common in Asia

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Mechanism differences

vertical barrel

Drum diameters are different, beating rate per turn higher.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Mechanism differences

vertical barrel

For machines of equal capacity, the barrel machine has greater metal surface friction area.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Mechanism differences

Carriage time

Fall time

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Mechanism differences

vertical barrel

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Mechanism differences

for vertical drum machine less friction is imparted,

resulting in less abrasion.

vertical barrel

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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-Pre-treatment

-stone and/or enzyme wash

effect adjustment

-bleaching

colour adjustment

-finishing

Handle adjustment

Main procsess in the laundry

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

-Pre-treatment

This step is the basic, but most important part of washing. Related to the final target we have to take the correct prevention in this part. This process has 3 main targets; removing the impurities coming from the fabric, de-sizing at weaving fabrics and decreasing the crease risk on the garment

*removing the impurities:

-either from the cotton or from the manufacturing period garment can contain some impureties. These impurities can be based on oil, alkaline or acidic chemicals and all of them can cause several problems in the next steps of washing. In this step a professional laundry man has to decide about the risk and he has to use the suitable auxiliaries to remove these impurities.

*de-sizing:

-all of the weaved fabrics contains size on them. During the weaving processes there can be two main problems;

one is breaking of the yarn because of high friction and second is dust formation. Size is the solution of these problems, because sizes are making a floppy film on surface and improves the tensile strength and directly causes better efficiency. However, this size becomes a problem so it must be remove in washing. There are several types of size are available in the market. But they can divided in two groups-water soluble sizes (CMC or PVA based sizes) and dissolvable sizes in water (starch based sizes)-

Starch based sizes still are used widely and have the biggest market share because of their cheap prices and easy purchase conditions.There are 4 methods to remove the size;

1-washing with high alcalines

2-washing with high acids

3-washing with oxidative chemicals

4-enzymatic desizng with alfa-amylases First three methods are difficult , risky and expensive method at laundry business because of this nearly all of the market prefers enzymatic de-sizing.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

Preventation of creases: One of the main problems in laundry business is creases. We can separate creases into 4 groups related to their reasons;

Mechanic based creases:

these are the creases related to the ratio of water, loading capacity and rotation speed of drum.

Chemical reaction based creases:

These are the creases related to the wetting time of fabric or unevenness auxiliary applications

Fabric based creases:

These are the creases comes from the production of the fabric

Storage based creases

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

DESİZİNG RECİPE

LİQOUR RATIO: 1/6-1/10 (DEPENDİNG ON MACHİNE TYPE)

TIME : 10 MİNUTES

LAVA ZYME DEZ 0,5-1 GR/LT( amylase enzyme for removing of size)

LAVA WET W-LA 0,5-1 GR/LT(wetting and scouring agent)

LAVA SPERSE KDS 0,5-1 GR/LT(dispersing and washing agent)

SERA LUPE M-CF 0,5-1 GR/LT(anti-crease agent)

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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WETTING DISPERSING AGENTUsed in Desizing process

must rapidly wet out jean

prevents white lines caused by rigid creases

permits penetration of Amylase to fully desize

prevents back staining of loose indigo onto weft yarns and pockets

Also used in stonewash / after washing to reduce back staining

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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BACK-STAININGRe-deposition of loose indigo, or indigo dyed short fibres, removed during desizing, stone-washing or enzyme washing.

Re-deposited Indigo, reduces the contrast between warp and undyed weft

Re-deposited indigo stains pockets and labels

Re-deposited indigo is more prone to Ozone and yellowing

AND SOLUTION LAVA SPERSE GROUPS

Back-staining is UNDESIREABLE in denim washing

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BACK-STAININGTHERE ARE 3 BASIC GROUPS OF DISPERSING AGENTS

FIRST GROUP IS WASHING AND SCOURING BASED PRODUCTS LIKE LAVA SPERSE HOC

SECOND GROUP IS DISPERSING ABILITY BASED PRODUCTS LIKELAVA SPERSE HES

AND THE THIRD AND MOST EFFECTIVE GROUP IS THE MIXTURE OF THESE TWO GROUPS

LAVA SPERSE KDS

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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ANTI-CREASE (Lava Lupe M-CF)

Prevents crease formation during the washing procsess.

Increases the loading capacity of the washing machine

Reduses the stone spots risk during the stone wash procsess

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

Enzyme is a kind of protein, that is obtained by extraction method from naturally existing bacteria and fungi. The structure of enzyme is a biologic polymer and it can be found every cell. Enzymes help the chemical reactions in living cells by breaking the large molecules to smaller ones or vice versa.

In fact, all the reactions can occur without enzymes, however enzymes reduce the energy demand of the cell for initiating the reaction and increase its speed. So ,they are known as “ biological catalyst “

The starting molecule in a reaction is called “substrate” , and the yield molecule is called “substate”. Enzymes , incorporate the reaction for yielding the “substate” but they may be recovered unchanged at the end of the reaction. Therefore , the reaction can continue over and over again while the enzyme is active .

The relationship between the enzyme and substrate can be explained like lock-key model. So there is only one substrate that the enzyme is active on. For instance , catalase enzymes decompose hydrogen peroxide but they don`t affect the cellulasic fibres and cellulase enzymes attack the cellulosic fibre and give no damage to the peroxides.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Enzymes

Enzymes are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group

Their shape guarantees selectivity-they are specific in their action

Anchor

BodyHead

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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The advantages of using a product which contains enzymes versus conventional chemical catalysts are as follows:

• Increase the rate of the chemical reactions,• Provide mild conditions for reactions such as neutral pH and room temperature.• The reaction can be easly controlled.• Enzymes are biologically degredable , so they do not cause any environment problems.• They can be used instead of most of the harmful chemicals.

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Enzymes in Laundry Business

Amylase desizing (removes starch)

Laccase bio-bleachingCatalase anti-peroxide

Cellulase breaks and removes fibres

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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AMYLASESIF YOU THINK ALFA AMYLASES AS KEY THEIR LOCK IS STARCH. THEY CHANGE THE FORM OF STARCH TO A WATER SOLUABLE STRUCTURE

THE MAIN DIFFERENCE AT ALFA AMYLASES IS TEMPARATURE STABILITY. SO WE CAN CLASSIFY ALFA AMYLASES AS TERMO-STABIL AND NON-TERMO STABIL GROUPS

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AMYLASESLava® Zyme DEZ

effective 40 – 80 ºC

liquid - pumpable

Lava® Zyme A-EN1.5 times stronger than DEZ

liquid - pumpable

effective 40 – 95 ºC

Normal desizing conducted at 70 ºC

Higher temperature, more back staining of indigo onto pockets and white weft yarns, which is undesirable

Good alkaline stability

can use products at lower temperature 55 ºC

reduces back staining

55 ºC – lower efficiency of enzyme – slightly higher dosage needed

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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CELLULASE ENZYMES

Here we use cellulase enzymes which attack and weaken cellulose (cotton)

Enzymes weaken the surface fibres, which are then mechanically torn off during processing taking with them indigo.

The need mechanical action to work, often to improve the rate of abrasion they are used with stones.

attack point

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Indigo dyeing mechanism

Consider a textile yarn.

It is not just a smooth surface, but thousands of

parallel fibres twisted together. The surface is not

smooth, it had fibre ends poking out.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Indigo dyeing mechanism

Indigo “ring dyes”. It does not penetrate far into the

individual fibres in a yarn. It remains “stuck” on or very

near the surface.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Indigo dyeing mechanism

Abrasion removes the indigo from the surface of the textile

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Cellulase Enzymes

We can separate Cellulase enzymes into two groups;

•Neutral Cellulases: These are the enzymes which are active between pH: 6-8

•lower abrasion than acid cellulases•low backstaining•pH 6 - 8.0

•Acid Cellulases:•high abrasion•higher back-staining than neutral cellulases•pH 4.5 - 5.5

optimized pH and temparature = maximum activity of the enzyme

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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NEUTRAL CELLULASEFor Stone washing Neutral cellulases are the most commonly used

mild action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibreattacks indigo ring dyed cotton fibres on surface of jean

causes surface fibres to break and detach

fibres on surface dyed with indigo therefore removed reducing indigo

can be in powder or liquid formusually contain

ENZYME

BUFFER

DISPERSING AGENT

MAIN PERFORMANCE OF CELLULASE ENZYMES DEPENDS ON TWO PRIMER VARIABLES

1-TEMPARATURE

2-pH

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Temperature profilesActivity/Stability

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

110

30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75

temperature in °C

rel.

activ

ity in

%

ENZYME 1

ENZYME 2

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

pH profileActivity/Stability

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

pH

rel.

activ

ity in

%

ENZYME 1

ENZYME 2

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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DyStar NEUTRAL CELLULASES

Name Form Temp

LavaLava®® Cell Cell NN--STST Powder 40-45 ºC

LavaLava®® Cell Cell NN--ST 250ST 250 Powder 40-45 ºC

LavaLava®® Cell Cell NN--TETE Powder 40-45 ºC

LavaLava®® Cell Cell NGNG Powder 50-60 ºC

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BALANCEBALANCE Powder 50-60 ºC

LavaLava®® Cell Cell NN--NMNM Powder 50-60 ºC

Lava Lava ®® Cell Liquid ACell Liquid A Liquid 50-60 ºC

LavaLava®® Cell POWERCell POWER Powder 50-60 ºC

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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BIOPOLISHING

Here we use cellulases again to attack and weaken the cellulose fibres.

Any fibres protruding for the surface of the garment are weakened and exposed and prone to being broken.

Enzyme action alone is not enough to cause the breakage – mechanical action is also needed. Either the action of fabric in jet, or in tumble drying.

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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BIOPOLISH

Process to attack the surface of the garment to remove hairiness, pilling

creates smooth surface

often called

anti pill wash

de-pill wash

flat wash

biopolishing

for BIOPOLISHING WASHING - ACID CELLULASES are used

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Biopolishing

fibrilated cotton

•biopolished cotton

the effect on the fabric surface

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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ACID CELLULASEWorking range ph 4.5 – 5.5

strong –medium action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibre

attacks cotton fibres on surface of jean

causes surface fibres to break and detach

creates smooth

usually in liquid form and un-buffered

must be “killed”by alkalinity

raise temp above 70 ºC

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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DyStar NEUTRAL CELLULASES

Name Form Temp /pH

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--TSTS Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--HXHX Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--EXEX Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--FX KONZFX KONZ Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--IXIX Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--LALA Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

Lava Lava ®® Cell Cell BB--LHLH Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

LavaLava®® Cell Cell BB--LKLK Liquid 55-65 ºC -Ph 4,5-5

Page 38: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Bio-polishing

Commonly known as “flat washing”.

Often done after garment dyeing to clean up the garment

Also done to soften up garments

Possible problems

Change of shade

Loss of fastness

Loss of strength

Damage to threads/sewings

Weakening of seams

Bursts.

Page 39: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

There are 5 main methods are common in the market;

1-Hypocloride bleaching

2-peroxide bleaching

3-permanganate bleaching

4-enzymatic bleaching

5-Lava Jeans FO bleaching

Bleaching procsess in laundry

Page 40: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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1-Hypocloride bleaching

This system is the main bleching method for indigo dyed fabrics.

Advantages:

1-to reach light colors (even ice blue and white colors)

2-blue cast

Disadvantages:

1-strength loss (especially at lycra blends)

2-It’s not possible to reach grey casts

Bleaching procsess in laundry

Page 41: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

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Cast and the strength loss of hypo bleach can be changed related to the recipe.

Ph and temparature are the main variables during the procsess. At high pH (9,5-10) reaction can be occure slower but this range is the best range for less strength losses. If the temparature goes up the reaction can happen more quickly but at high temparatures, controling of the reaction becomes more difficult. Because of this most of the user prefer temparatures under 60 ºC. In low temparature aplications, final cast can be a little bit green-blue, by the help of temparatue cast becomes shiny blue.

Especially at lycra blends strengt loss can be the biggest problem and the best method of increasing the strength can be summarized as dividing the bleaching bath into several baths.

After bleaching we have to make an neutralization process and for this procsess sodium bi sulfite and peroxide are the two possibilities. If the neutralization chemical will be peroxide then the biggest advantage will be more shiny blue cast but sometimes for stopping of Hypo smell peroxide can be not enough. These kind of cases the best oppurtunity can be bi sulfite usage.

Bleaching procsess in laundry

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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1-Permanganate bleaching

This system is the mainly prefered at spreying .

Advantages:

1-Its very easy to see the spreying area because of color change

2-less strength loss related to hypo bleach

Dis-advantages:

1-Its to difficult to use in machine.

Bleaching procsess in laundry

Page 43: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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1-Persulfate bleaching

This system is the mainly prefered for reaching grey casts after stone wash or hypo bleach .

Advantages:

1-grey cast

Dis-advantages:

1-high strength loss (especially at high temparatures)

2-limited amount of bleaching

Bleaching procsess in laundry

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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•ENZYMATIC BLEACHING SYSTEM•Laccase enzyme•Decolourises IndigoIndigo without using bleach•Provides very good contrast•Gives a fashionable grey cast•Does not affect tensile strength

•Easy process

Page 45: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

The indigo dyestuff is reduced to water-soluble decomposition products by oxidoreductase (Lava® Zyme LITE) and removed by rinsing. This process is boosted by the „mediator“, which is contained in the product.

Due to the pH-value of 5.5 – 6.5 which is necessary for this bleaching process stickers made of leather and metal are treated carefully as well as the garment itself. Sulphur and reactive dyestuffs are not affected by this bleaching system. It is specific to indigo dyestuff. This means there is no attack to the cotton fibre and so nearly no loss in tensile strength.

Without any particular after-scouring or after-bleaching a greyer colour shade compared to other bleaching systems – especially chlorine bleaching - is obtained. A clearer shade may be achieved by after-bleaching with hydrogen peroxide. It is essential to rinse and wash after bleaching. Then, a softener is applied on the garment and finished as normal.

Page 46: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

DENIM with Lycra®

Vast quantities of jeans are being made containing Lycra®

Laundries are faced with challenge to produce full shade range

Range must include bleached and full bleached looks

Hypochlorite damages elastane fibres like Lycra®

Laundries still try to use Hypochlorite but face severe risk of damages

Page 47: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Rapid bleaching of elastane containing indigo-dyed jeans

based on acid released peroxide donator

allows fast deep bleaching of denim lycra without damaging elastane

easier to control than hypochlorite

gives fashionable grey blue

grey blue can be turned back to blue blue easily

A safe way to bleach denim lycra.

L.Jeans FO 2 g/l

50 ºC 10 min.L.JeansFO 2g/l 70’c 10 min.

Page 48: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Finishing part of the garment wash is one of the most important issue which will complete the look of the garment with handle.

these are the main product groups for finishing part of laundry business

1-Cationic softeners

2-non-ionic softeners

3-micro silikons

4-macro silikons

5-nano-silikons

6-stiff coating

FINISHING

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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Nonionic fatty acid with additives

Pumpable liquidprovides a full, soft flowing hand

is extremely stable against yellowing

Evo®Soft UNT

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Standart fatty acid base cationic softeners

Soft handle with smothness on the surface

Low yellowing

EVO®Soft UCL EVO®Soft UCT

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Universal quaternary softener (cationic)

Very soft voluminous handle

Excellent surface smoothness

Stable against to yellowing

Increases the pile stability

EVO®Soft GFL

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Non-ionic PE wax emulsion

gives a smoothness on the surface

improves sewability

improves tear strength at resin finishes

improves resistance to pilling

EVO®Soft PEN

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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These are micro silikon emulsions

Gives good sofness with high smoothness

High washfastness

Espesially Evo Soft MET can be used the make more darker colors by spraying.(for reparing of bleaching faults in laundry)

Evo®Soft MEBEvo®Soft METEvo®Soft MEC

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Special non-ionic micro silikon emulsion

No color change, suitable for white colors

Improves the strength of the fabric

Smooth and soft handle

High wash fastness

EVO®Soft MCT

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Non-ionic macro silikon

Elastic silikon handle

Non yellowing

High working stability

High washing stability

EVO®Soft MSA

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Silikon solution (Not emulsion)

Extremely shear stable

One of the safest silikon for jet type of machines

At laundry prosesses it is repariable (after this silikon you can easily repair the color)

EVO®Soft VJS

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Amido siloxane

Slightly hydrophilic

Secure softening (no spots)

EVO®Soft HWA

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Water based non-ionic silikon elastomer

Has high washfastness at 30-40 degree washes and dry cleaning

Suitable to use at fashion denim aplications

Improves the strength and shining of the garment when it used with resin aplictions at laundry business

EVO®Soft SEL

Page 59: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

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The discolouration of textiles, i.e. a change of shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow tint, is commonly known as YELLOWING.

It is a widespread problem and there is no single reason for its cause.

Instead a number of conditions can singly or in combination lead to the problem.

Yellowing is not specific to certain fibres, finishes or washing processes.

It is NOT specific to chemicals or chemical treatments, but certainly factors within these can lead to yellowing

It is not possible to isolate one cause for yellowing, so in this presentation, we will look at some of the different types of yellowing which may be encountered in Indigo dyed fabrics or garments

Introduction

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Cotton, as can all organic polymers, yellows with age.

As it ages, it develops a yellow tint.

This ageing cannot explain severe yellowing, or accelerated yellowing problems

. Light, acids, impurities, detergents and chemicals, overdosed FBA’s contribute to yellowing problems

But these alone do not explain yellowing problems in cotton and Indigo dyed fabrics

1. Yellowing occurs on fabrics without FBA

2. FBA’s quality has been constantly improved

3. Our knowledge and experience in their application has improved

.

Yellowing

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Certain lubricants used in weaving are known to create yellowingCertain lubricants used in weaving are known to create yellowing

Hydrocarbon oils commonly used in weaving or knitting as lubricaHydrocarbon oils commonly used in weaving or knitting as lubricants yellow with age nts yellow with age due to oxidation . due to oxidation .

In recent years addition of antiIn recent years addition of anti--oxidants to these oils led to the phenomenon of oxidants to these oils led to the phenomenon of

““PHENOLIC YELLOWINGPHENOLIC YELLOWING

Phenolic Yellowing

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Phenolic YellowingThe presence of antioxidants can also cause serious yellowing problems

•They react with NOx

•This reaction causes yellowing

A Common Antioxidant is BHT (butylated hydrox toluene).This is of phenolic basis and readily reacts with NOx producing yellowing.

This is just one of number of phenolic compounds which similarly react producing yellow coloured Quinoid derivatives

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Phenolic YellowingAnti Oxidants are used in all of these materials

• Packaging materials• Sewing machine lubricants• Sewing lubricants applied to fabrics• Finishing chemicals (including FBA’s)• Fibres (coning, spinning-oils, or released from elastomeric fibres)• Silicon Softeners, or emulsifiers used to make silicon emulsions

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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

ScorchingTemperature of drying and curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton fibre.

Good control therefore must be used to minimise this type of damage

Page 65: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Indigo Dyed materials.FACT:

Indigo dyed fabrics are even more prone to yellowing.

• Indigo, if exposed to certain agents such as NOx , Ozone (O3 )• can react to produce a number of yellow coloured compunds.

• Impurities in enzymes and chemicals used in garment washing can similarly cause breakdown of Indigo into yellow coloured derivatives

• Packaging materials can contribute to yellowing.

• Reactions between contaminants in cardboard and plastics can produce ozone, nitrogen or sulphur oxides.

• These compounds can react to produce yellow compounds.

Page 66: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Indigo Dyed materials..From the very start of Indigo dyed garment manufacture –from the raw material right

through to the finished product, there are any number of products which can cause,

accelerate ,or worsen yellowing problems.

As previously stated – all textile fabrics are prone to yellowing.

With Indigo dyed fabrics we also encounter a number of additional opportunities to introduce yellowing.

Indigo itself , through simple oxidation, can transform into many different substances, some colourless, but a great deal are yellow in colour.

Page 67: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Minimisation of Yellowing RiskIt is impossible to eliminate yellowing, but it is possible to reduce conditions which

cause Classical Yellowing

Ensure bleaching and bleach neutralisation residues are minimised or eliminatedMinimise back staining Avoid the use of chemicals which create yellowingAvoid leaving garments damp any longer than necessaryControl drying and curing conditions

Also at spinning, warping, dyeing and weaving control products used which may cause yellowing.

Page 68: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Yellowing cause by ozone and/or NOx

Yellowing on indigo dyed material

Page 69: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Yellowing on indigo dyed material

Original without gassing Original

Ozone gassing on treated fabric with

Lava Jeans PRO

Silicon softener

Page 70: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Specialised anti-yellowing softeners are available and have three main action mechanisms

1. barrier forming

- Film forming softeners which create a protective layer over the fibre and encapsulate the indigo , thus protecting it from exposure to air pollution , and therefore to yellowing.

Disadvantage -can also lock onto the fibre, residues from processing which can therefore no longer be easily removed, accelerating classical yellowing

2. sacrificial reaction

React with air pollutants and in the process of reaction break down into colourless compounds, but sometimes the breakdown compounds can accelerate classical yellowing effect.

3. alternative reaction partner

4. the most successful class of anti yellowing softeners which react with airborne pollutants thereby de-activating or weakening them before they are able to affect the indigo.

Softeners and Yellowing

Page 71: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Soft polyacrylate

Offers excellent anti yellowing properties by film forming mechanism

Gives high protection against yellowing effect

Pumpable

Gives unique smooth handle

Lava® Jeans PRO

Page 72: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Treatment of ready-made denim in drum-type washing machines

Add to the last rinse

2 – 5 % o.w.g. Lava Jeans PRO

Set at pH 4 – 5 by adding approx. 1 ml/l acetic acid

Bath temperature: 25 – 40° C

Treatment time: 10 min

Liquor ratio: 4:1 – 8:1

Note: Applying common softening agents with Lava Jeans PRO can impair the impact of Lava Jeans PRO. Silicon softening agent should not be used because they increase the risk of yellowing.

Yellowing on indigo dyed material

Page 73: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

C

N

O

HC

N

O

H

C

N

O

H

C

N

O

HC

N

O

H

Denim exposed to O3

Lava® Jeans Pro treated exposed to O3

O3 levels worldwide a) winter b) summer

Control

Denim

Treatment of ready-made denim in drum-type washing machines

Add to the last rinse

2 – 5 % o.w..g. Lava Jeans PRO

Set at pH 4 – 5 with acetic acid

Bath temperature: 25 – 40° C

Treatment time: 10 min

Liquor ratio: 4:1 – 8:1

Note: Applying common softening agent with Lava Jeans PRO can impair the impact of Lava Jeans PRO. Silicon softening agent should not be used because they increase the risk of yellowing.

Page 74: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

GARMENT -CURE

DyStar Process for wrinkle free garments

Page 75: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Garment-Cure - The approved concept for non-iron and wrinkle-resistant finish on garments

Garment-Cure - is an industry-proven method for wash and wear finishing of ready-made garmentssuch as trousers, skirts and shirts.

Garment-Cure - meets the technological and ecologicaldemands of the market.

DyStar GarmentDyStar Garment --CURE for GarmentsCURE for Garments

Page 76: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Advantages of Garment-CURE:• suitable for all ready-made garments made of natural

cellulosic and man-made cellulosic fibres• provides non-iron effects, if desired also with

permanent crease• prevents creasing during wear as well as after

washing and tumble-drying (easy care)• is fast to washing• meets requirements of Ecotex-Standard 100

Page 77: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

DyStar products for the Garment-CURE process:

Evo Pret RCI self-cross linking DMDHEU resin

Evo Soft VNI fatty acid softener

Evo Soft ME silicone micro emulsion

Evo Soft SNY elastomeric silicon micro emulsion

Evo Soft ELP elastomeric macro silicon emulsion

Evo Soft PEN softener for improvement of the tear strength

Evo Protect FSU fluorocarbon resin for water repellent finish (stain release)

Page 78: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Application recipe:A. Dip-spinning:

- liquor to goods ratio: 4 : 1 - 10 : 1- bath temperature: 25 - 40 °C- pH value of the bath: 4.0 - 5.0- treatment time: 10 min

100 % cotton trousers (proposal):25 - 50 g/l Evo Pret RCI5 - 20 g/l Evo Soft ME or SNY

20 - 40 g/l Evo Soft VNI0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF

Page 79: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

Denim trousers (pre-washed and neutralized):40 - 70 g/l Evo Pret RCI10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft VNI10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft PEN0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF

Linen trousers:40 - 70 g/l Evo Pret RCI20 - 40 g/l Evo Soft VNI10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft SNY or

Evo Soft ELP (prediluted)0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF

Page 80: Washing Principle Denim Dystar

Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

RBD Garment Team10/06

1. Hydroextract 80 - 100 % pick-up2. Tumble dry 80 – 100 °C 10 - 20 % residual moisture3. Iron or topper treatment

or press (if a perm. crease is requested):a. steam 5 - 10 sec b. press 10 - 15 sec. at 150 - 180 °C no steamc. vacuum 3 - 5 sec.(pressure 4 - 7 bar . 28 - 42 psi)

4.Cure in tunnel finisher or curing ovencotton trousers: 150 - 160 °C / 6 - 10 mindenim trousers: 150 - 160 °C / 10 - 15 minlinen trousers: 140 - 150 °C / 8 - 10 min

Drying and curing