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The Wines of New York State 1

theWines of NewYork

State

A special advertising

section in Cornell Alumni

Magazine

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2 The Wines of New York State

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T he word “sustainable” has been tossed around so much overthe past few years that one may well wonder what it means.At Cornell, it can be applied to the replacement of a coal-burning power plant—or the elimination of cafeteria trays

and plastic water bottles. In agriculture, it covers a wide range of practices related,in one way or another, to increased respect for the environment.

When applied to viticulture and winemaking, many think of sustainable prac-tices as a sort of “organic-lite” effort by farmers who would like to be organic butare forced by conditions to use chemical sprays for pest control. While there’smuch more to it than that, many would be hard pressed to say just what “sustain-ability” is. As Tim Martinson, PhD ’91, senior extension associate with the Department of Horticultural Sciences in CALS, says, “Sustainability has been stated as a goal for many businesses, from agriculture and industry to retail giants.Everybody knows they want it—but defining it has been more elusive.”

At the 2008 Wineries Unlimited Conference in Santa Rosa, California, JoeChauncey—whose Seattle-based architecture firm specializes in building sustain-able wineries—stated that a sustainable winery should be: (1) ecologically respon-sive; (2) economically viable; (3) a good neighbor; (4) bioregional (that is, sensitiveto the environment and culture of the wider agricultural region); (5) healthy andsensible; and (6) operationally efficient.

VineBalance—a joint venture of the wine industry, Cornell Cooperative Exten-sion, and the New York Department of Agriculture and Market’s Soil and Water

SustainabilityGOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, GOOD FOR WINE

BY DAVE POHL

Dave Pohl, MA ’79, is a wine buyer atNorthside Wine & Spirits in Ithaca. Hecame to Cornell in 1976 to work on aPhD in sociology, but he was seducedby the wine business and has been at itever since. He has been with Northsidefor more than sixteen years, where hehas recommended wines to many hap-py Ithacans and Cornellians.

BEDELL VINEYARDS

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Back to the land: The weed management program at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyardcalls for every second row to be cultivated annually, allowing growers to work inmore organic matter and regulate water retention. Above right: The vineyard’s richflora and fauna, including snails, signifies a healthy ecosystem.


Conservation Committee—takes anequally broad view. Its website(www.vinebalance.com) states that sus-tainable viticulture “attempts to mini-mize environmental impacts andensure economic viability and a safe,healthy workplace through the use ofenvironmentally and economicallysound production practices.”

Paul Dolan, who now heads PaulDolan Vineyards and is the formerpresident of Fetzer Vineyards in Cali-fornia, summarizes sustainability withhis “Three E’s”: Economic viability, En-vironmental responsibility, and socialEquity. Simply put, if winery operatorspay attention to these three broad areasand the ways in which they interact—and make decisions that maximizepositive outcomes in these areas—theyare operating in a sustainable manner.

In New York, VineBalance has cre-ated a workbook to help wineries andgrape growers assess their agriculturalpractices as they relate to sustainabili-ty. The workbook has 134 questionsabout growing practices, organized intoseven site-management groups: soil,nutrition, vineyards, irrigation, weeds,pests, and pesticides. An eighth group

evaluates the vineyard manager’s con-tinuing education efforts. Responses tothe site-management questions aregrouped from most positive (or lowestenvironmental risk) to least positive (orhighest environmental risk). A growercan thus easily identify specific changesand the related costs and benefits. Co-operative Extension, whose grape ex-perts coordinate the activities ofVineBalance, offers outreach help andexpertise to growers who need assis-tance in developing strategies to meetsustainability goals.

The VineBalance program has beentouted as the standard for sustainablegrape growing by the National GrapeCooperative, which owns Welch’s. Itsmember growers in New York, Pennsyl-vania, and Ohio are now using theworkbook program, and the cooperativehas launched similar workbook-basedprograms in Michigan and Washington.

One of the creators of the workbookand questionnaire was John Santos ’90,manager of Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards, lo-cated on the east side of Seneca Lake.A recipient of the Schuyler County2009 Conservation Farmer of the Yearaward, Hazlitt has been making great

HERMANN J. WIEMER WINERY

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strides in sustainability. Santos is espe-cially proud of Hazlitt’s compostingprogram. “We have been compostingour winery wastes for more than tenyears,” he says. “We compost all of ourpomace in a 50/50 blend with beddedmanure. And for several years, we havebeen composting the kitchen wastegenerated at the winery. During our an-nual growers picnic, we compost all ofthe food waste as well as the plates andutensils.”

Santos says that composting hasgreatly reduced the use of chemical fer-tilizers, to the point where some of thevineyards no longer require any duringthe growing season. He hopes the samewill one day be the case for all of Haz-litt’s vineyards. Santos is also happy toshare his approach with others; withthe help of Cooperative Extension, hehas sponsored demonstrations of howHazlitt creates and applies its compost.

Hazlitt is not organic, but it hasfound ways to minimize spraying. Forexample, the use of cans with multiplenozzles allows growers to direct spraysonly at the parts of the plants thatneed them. Santos also does trials todetermine how much of a given sprayis required to be effective, rather thanblindly following the label instructions.Hazlitt, he says, has “strived over theyears to use more low-risk and organicmaterials. We also strive to use thechemicals that present the least poten-tial threat to the environment and theworkers in the vineyard.”

To Santos, being sustainable alsomeans contributing to the community.Hazlitt has raised tens of thousands ofdollars for Seneca Santa and is involvedin the ongoing Haitian relief effort.“We continue as a business to look forways to reduce our environmental foot-print, improve our economic return,and treat our employees and communi-ty in an equitable fashion,” he says.

On the other side of Seneca Lake,the venerable Hermann J. WiemerWinery has also been making greatstrides in sustainability. Like Hazlitt,owner Fred Merwarth ’00 has eliminat-ed synthetic fertilizers and instead usesa blend of pomace and manure. AndWiemer’s spray program is based onthe classic Bordeaux blend of spray ma-terial (a mixture of copper sulphate andhydrated lime), which is certified or-ganic, notes Merwarth’s winery part-ner, Oskar Bynke ’00. No spraying isdone within six weeks of harvest, her-

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bicides have been eliminated, andweeds are managed through under-trellis cultivation.

Additionally, Bynke says that be-cause of their winery practices, “we areable to minimize the use of sulfur to be-low organic levels.” (Sulfur, which isused as a preservative in most wines,must be limited to 100 parts per millionor less for that wine to meet organicstandards set by the USDA.) Merwarthand Bynke are currently committed tohaving the Hermann J. Wiemer Vine-yard, located behind the winery, certifiedorganic within the next two years. (Oth-er vineyards owned by the winery willnot qualify, due to their proximity toother, non-organic vineyards.)

These two well-known Finger Lakeswineries represent the vanguard of alarger movement toward sustainabilityin the New York State wine industry—and with a boost from Cornell andVineBalance, it is gaining momentum.VineBalance reports that as of summer2008 seventy-five grape growers hadcompleted the self-assessment work-book and an additional twenty-two hadpurchased it. These growers come fromall over the state: thirty-two from the

Finger Lakes, twenty-seven from theLake Erie region, ten from Long Island,and six from the Hudson Valley. Twenty-three of the growers have gone on tocreate action plans, detailing a total of445 proposed changes, most centeredon the use of pesticides and monitoringand improving soil health.

The coming years should see agrowing emphasis on sustainability inNew York, and some of this growthmay be consumer driven. Heron HillWinery on Keuka Lake states on itswebsite: “People have become very con-scious of what goes into their bodiesand from where food originates. Wineis a food product and needs to be han-dled in a caring, safe, and healthfulmanner.” Scott Osborne, the owner ofFox Run Vineyards on Seneca Lake,says that sustainability “gave us a termthat we could use, which is very impor-tant in talking to the customer. What Iused to say was that I live on the prop-erty, and I have to be careful because Idon’t want to kill myself. And if Ichoose to leave it to my children, Iwant to leave it in as good a conditionas possible. Now I have a term that’snot as longwinded for saying that.”

photo here

Another bountiful harvest of more than 30 varieties of apples awaits

you at the Cornell Orchards. Plus: Cornell maple syrup, sweet cider,Sheep Program blankets, local honey,and a selection of specialty food and

gift items from around the FingerLakes and New York State.

Also selling wine grapes and juicefor home winemaking

709 Dryden Road, across from the Vet College on Rte. 366

Open Tuesday–Sunday, 8:30 am–5:00 pmTuesday–Saturday after Thanksgiving

Closed mid-May to mid-August

Call 607-255-4542www.hort.cornell.edu/orchards

Crunchy Apples and Sweet Cider at

Cornell Orchards

Water view: Cultivated acreage on the western shore of Seneca Lake

TIM MARTINSON / CORNELL COOPERATIVE EXTENSION

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While it is a relative newcomer to the Finger Lakes re-gion, Red Tail Ridge Winery has raised the bar for sus-tainability. Its owners, Nancy Irelan and MikeSchnelle, say they view sustainability as a “systems ap-proach that seeks to balance the environment, com-

munity, and finance.” To them, financial stability is essential, as it frees up time,energy, and other resources to focus on issues related to community and the envi-ronment.

One of the most exciting aspects of the operation is the building itself. In2009, Red Tail Ridge became the only winery in New York State to register forLEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification for its newbuilding. In the hope of qualifying, the owners consulted with the New York StateEnergy Research and Development Authority and Sustainable Performance Con-sulting Inc. for guidance on building an energy efficient and environmentallysound winery. Edge Architects of Rochester created the building design.

Temperature inside the winery is controlled by a geothermal heating and cool-ing system. Liquid glycol passes through coils of pipes underground; then, havingabsorbed the earth’s heat, it is pumped back into the building and circulatedthrough pipes in the floors and walls. This system controls the temperature notonly of the air but of the stainless-steel fermenting tanks. While other alternativeenergy sources were considered, geothermal was selected because it required a

smaller initial investment and will pay for itself more quickly—and it can be controlled remotely, via laptop computer.

Environmental considerations were also crucial when choosingbuilding products. The winery walls contain recycled materials,and the fieldstone on the facade came from the vineyard grounds.The front of the building is dominated by a large double-panedwindow that allows daylight to flood in, so it’s usually possible towork inside without turning on any lights.

Sustainability at Red Tail Ridge extends to the viticultural practices as well. The vineyard has drainage ditches to manage

The ViewfromRed TailRidgeBY DAVE POHL

Green land: Red Tail Ridge Winery features (clockwise from bot-tom) a vineyard that emphasizes sustainable growing practices, ageothermal heating and cooling system, and windows that offerample natural light.

PROVIDED BY RED TAIL RIDGE WINERY

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rainwater runoff, and tile installed atforty-foot intervals supports soil preser-vation and maintains vineyard unifor-mity. Watering is done with dripirrigation, which is more efficient anduses less water than conventionalsprinkler systems.

While Red Tail Ridge does not qual-ify as organic, the winery uses an inte-grated pest management approach tocontrol insects, disease, and weeds.Leaf pulling optimizes fruit exposure,which reduces disease pressure, andregular scouting for insects and theirdamage determines if treatment is nec-essary. When pesticides are used, thewinery chooses ones that meet EPA reduced-risk standards; chemicals arerotated to prevent resistance. Non-interventionist approaches are used for dealing with animal pests: eight-foot-high fencing keeps out deer, andnetting prevents birds from damagingvines and grapes.

Irelan and Schnelle also considersustainability in the tasting room.Waste is kept to a minimum, paperproducts are made from recycled mate-rials, and no bottled water is served. Inthe restrooms, low-flow toilets havebeen installed.

With its high-profile sustainabilityefforts, Red Tail Ridge offers an impres-sive example to other wineries—andIrelan says that New York State wasthe ideal place for their approach. Sheand her husband had considered Ore-gon and California before coming tothe Finger Lakes, but they concludedthat creating a sustainable winery fromthe ground up would be prohibitivelyexpensive in those western states. “Weknew when we started that [green] wasthe direction we wanted to go in,” Ire-lan says. “The challenge was doing thisas a small business and seeing a returnon our investment. This is the bestplace we could find to do that.”

While Red Tail Ridgedoes not qualify as organic, the wineryuses an integratedpest management approach.

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M any Long Island vineyards are located near suburban areas, which causes some unique problems for grapegrowers and winemakers. With communities so close tosome vineyards, they must be careful about how theyselect and use pesticides and fertilizers, and community

concerns may make it more difficult to implement new practices such as wind energy. Being close to population centers isn’t the only concern—a growing deerpopulation and swarms of starlings moving south from New England also posechallenges for those who seek a sustainable approach.

One of the Long Island wineries at the forefront of this effort is Shinn EstateVineyards. Barbara Shinn and David Page moved from California to New York inthe early Nineties to open their Home Restaurant, specializing in locally producedfoods, in Greenwich Village. After a few years, the couple decided it might be in-teresting to produce their own wine for the restaurant, and Shinn Estate’s firstvines were planted in 2000.

From the start, Shinn and Page have worked closely with a number of agenciesand organizations, including Cornell, to help create a sustainable model for thewinery. Their approach puts a heavy emphasis on creating and maintaining bio-diversity; for instance, the cover crop planted between the vine rows includes morethan two dozen species, which in turn attract an array of beneficial insects. In ad-dition, they are growing eight grape varieties, with multiple clones of each variety.Soil health is also important; only organic fertilizers such as fish, seaweed, andcarbon are used, and compost is applied via a drip system to prevent an undesir-able increase in phosphorous.

Another Long Island winery strongly committed to sustainability is MacariVineyards. The 180-acre estate was founded in 1995 by Joe Macari Jr., who cameto winemaking from construction and real estate. He sought early advice from ex-

GoingGreen on LongIslandBY DAVE POHL

PINDAR

MACARI VINEYARDS

MACARI VINEYARDS

SHINN ESTATE VINEYARDS

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Summer place: In July, chamomile blooms at Shinn Estate Vineyards (above), pro-viding a beneficial habitat where “good” bugs eat pests. Below: Macari Vineyards iscommitted to the use of organic fertilizers, raising steers solely for their manure.


MACARI VINEYARDS


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perts in biodynamics—an approachthat views the farm as a closed systemof interdependent life forms and ener-gies. It emphasizes organic methods,favoring manure and homeopathiccomposts over chemical sprays. Al-though Macari has tried to adhere tothis biodynamic model, he has foundthat in most years he must spray forfungus. Even so, he limits the amountof sprays and remains strongly com-mitted to the use of organic fertilizers.He even raises steers solely for theirmanure.

Pindar Vineyards, the largest wineryon Long Island, is owned by Dr.Herodotus “Dan” Damianos; in 1994he added a second operation, DuckWalk Vineyards. Both emphasize a sus-tainable approach to viticulture andwinemaking. Duck Walk uses geother-mal energy for heating and cooling, andPindar is currently converting to thesame system. In the vineyards, selected

grasses—rather than chemical fertiliz-ers—are used to supply nitrogen to thesoil. In addition, both wineries createtheir own organic compost. The atten-tion to environmental impact extendsto the tasting room as well: at Pindar,energy-efficient light fixtures and dish-washers have been installed, empty

At Pindar Vineyards,customers are evenencouraged to returncorks to be recycled ascorkboards and flooring material.

bottles are recycled, and tasting sheetsare re-used. Customers are even en-couraged to return corks to be recycledas corkboards and floor material.

These wineries, along with a grow-ing number of others on Long Island,are looking to sustainability as a keyprinciple in determining how grapes aregrown, how wine is made, and howthey interact with their customers.Wine lovers increasingly want their fa-vorite beverage to be produced in anenvironmentally and socially responsi-ble manner, and these New York winer-ies are showing they’re ready to addressthat challenge.

DAMIANI WINE CELLARS

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Grape Industries Generate $3.76 Billion for StateNew study chronicleseconomic benefits

T he New York grape, grapejuice, and wine industriescontributed more than

$3.76 billion in economic benefits tothe economy of New York State in2008, according to a study conductedby the Napa Valley-based StonebridgeResearch Group LLC and released inJanuary. This represents an increase ofmore than 10 percent from the $3.4billion documented in a similar studyconducted in 2004.

The New York Wine & Grape Foun-dation, which commissioned the re-search, reports that the study also showsthat out-of-state wines sold in New Yorkcontributed an additional $3.26 billion,for a total economic benefit to the stateof $7.02 billion from the grape and wineindustries. Data for the study came fromvarious federal and state agencies, privatesources, and primary research conductedby Stonebridge.

The figures for 2008 are a conserva-tive indication of the current economicimpact, the foundation says, since newwineries have opened in 2009, and an-ecdotal reports suggest that tourismand sales again increased in 2009.Highlights of the study include:

• The industry supports 39,000 full-time equivalent jobs, including17,000 from the New York sector and22,000 from out-of-state wines.

• There were $1.5 billion in wagespaid, with $802 million from theNew York sector and $770 millionfrom out-of-state wines.

• New York wineries saw $508 millionin sales.

• Sales of other wines in New York to-taled $1.9 billion.

• There were $36.5 million in sales ofNew York grapes.

• The state had 37,000 grape-bearingacres.

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• Grape juice product revenues totaled$32.7 million.

• The state tallied $376.5 million inwine-related tourism expenditures.

• Visits by wine-related tourists totaled4.98 million.

• New York had 1,438 grape farms.

• There were $455 million in state andlocal taxes paid, including $230 mil-lion from the New York sector and$225 million from out-of-state wines.

• The industry made charitable contri-butions of $8.6 million.

“The grape and wine industry is aneconomic engine, and wine is the ulti-mate value-added product,” says foun-dation president Jim Trezise. “Foryears, the wine industry has been thefastest growing part of New York’s twolargest economic sectors of agricultureand tourism, and now we have soliddata on the enormous economic bene-fits we generate.”

The Stonebridge research, measur-ing the economic impact in one year, iscomplemented by another study re-leased in October, which shows indus-try growth over the past twenty-fiveyears. The long-term study, conductedby New York Agricultural Statistics Ser-vice (NASS), measured growth in areassuch as the number of wineries, totalproduction, tourism, and similar in-dices. Among its highlights:

• The number of new wineries in the2000 decade exceeded the total createdin the previous 170 years, with manyin nontraditional regions of the state.

• Tourist visits to wineries increased21 percent from 2003, despite recordhigh gas prices and a recession.

• Of 169 responding wineries, 124made investments during 2006–08averaging nearly $400,000.

• Commercial wineries paid an averageof $1,788,300 in federal and statetaxes (excise and sales).

“The large and growing economicimpact of the wine industry is the ex-act opposite of what is happening inthe auto and other industrial sectors,”says Stonebridge founder Barbara Insel.“When a company like General Motorscloses a plant, all of a sudden its totaleconomic impact becomes painfully ap-parent with the direct loss of jobs, theloss of business for suppliers, and theloss of spending power and tax bases in

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the local community. These are whatwe call direct, indirect, and induced ef-fects of economic activity—in essence,the “ripple effect”—which can be eithergood or bad. In the case of the wineindustry, the ripple effects are very pos-itive in many areas of the economy—an upward spiral of benefits.”

The New York Wine & GrapeFoundation, a statewide not-for-profittrade association representing NewYork grape growers, grape juice produc-ers and wineries, was created by statelegislation in 1985 during an economiccrisis in the industry. The organiza-tion’s strategic goal is “to have the NewYork grape and wine industry recog-nized as a world leader in quality, pro-ductivity, and social responsibility.”

“Our industry’s dramatic growth isdue largely to a productive partnershipbetween the public and private sectors,”says Trezise. “New York’s public offi-cials on the state and federal levels in-creasingly recognize that the wineindustry is a gold mine for agriculture,tourism, and manufacturing, and thatenlightened public policy will let us ex-pand our economic contribution.”

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Students Complete First Vintage atCornell’s New Teaching WineryBY KATHLEEN ARNINK

T his fall, a group ofCornell undergradu-ates became the

first to learn the science and artof winemaking in the new Col-lege of Agriculture and Life Sci-ences Teaching Winery at theCornell Orchards. Students intwo courses in the viticultureand enology major perseveredthrough a challenging growingseason to ferment a range of va-rieties—Pinot Gris, CayugaWhite, Traminette, Lemberger, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Corot Noir, andDechaunac. Graduate students also used the winery for test fermentations ofgrapes from their research plots. All of the grapes were harvested from two Cornellvineyards—one at Cornell Orchards that consists of hybrid wine grapes, and an-other ten miles north of campus close to the winter warmth of Cayuga Lake, con-sisting mostly of vinifera grapes.

The 2009 growing season challenged students in many ways. It was cool andwet, which delayed varietal ripeness and required students to sample frequentlyand make timely harvest decisions in the vineyard. The need to harvest and ferment within a fourteen-week semester also confronts students with critical decisions and trade-offs. These are opportunities that help students learn the challenges of growing grapes and making wine in the Finger Lakes and other cool-climate regions, as they learn to make consistently good finished wines fromgrapes that vary from year to year.

Students harvested and fermented hybrid and Pinot Noir grapes as part of aNew York Farm Viability Institute project to evaluate carbonic and skin macera-tion. Other treatments evaluated included harvest timing, skin contact, yeaststrains, and malolactic fermentation. Students worked in small groups on thesewines and were responsible for determining treatment conditions for each grapevariety and performing all necessary production and analytical steps. In order toexplore alternative vinification methods without producing excess quantities ofwines, students fermented wines in small lots of five to twenty gallons. All of thewines are used for chemical, microbiological, and sensory analyses. One of thebenefits of the teaching winery is the chance for students to use unblended treat-ments that are difficult to find commercially.

The fall 2009 courses concluded with student presentations on their proce-dures for making each wine and important analytical data obtained, followed bysensory evaluation and discussion by students in each class. Wines fermented bystudents during the fall 2009 semester are stabilizing in a cold room at the winery,until students return in January to complete this vintage. In the spring semester,students will continue crafting their wines during a sequel enology course—Wine-making Theory and Practices II. This two-semester approach enables students toexperience viticulture and enology from the determination of harvest date throughvinification, stabilization, fining, blending, and ultimately bottling.

The CALS Teaching Winery and adjacent vineyards, on Cornell’s main campusin Ithaca, provide viticulture and enology students with hands-on experience in allaspects of grape growing and winemaking. The winery has also become a socialhub and focal point for students to interact with faculty and learn the techniquesto become leading winemakers and grape growers in New York and beyond.

Kathleen Arnink is a senior lecturer in enology at Cornell.

New York State Wineries can be found at

New York Wine and Grape Foundation websitewww.newyorkwines.org

Click on "Wine Country" to visit each of the wine regions

Hospitality ListingsCampus-to-Campuswww.C2Cbus.com

Cayuga Lake Cruiseswww.cayugalakecruises.com

Cornell Orchardswww.hort.cornell.edu/orchards

CUVEEwww.sce.cornell.edu/cuvee

Finger Lakes Wine Festival andWatkins Glen Internationaltheglen.com

Greek Peak Mountain Resortwww.greekpeakmtnresort.com

Ithaca Farmers Marketithacamarket.com

Northside Wine & Spiritswww.northsidewine.com

Sherwood Innthesherwoodinn.com

The Statler Hotelwww.statlerhotel.cornell.edu

Toro Run Estateswww.tororunestates.com

Teaching case: Arnink (right) with students

CRAIG CRAMER

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