Vintage Made Modern Monthly FREE Issue - with Project Supplement

Vintage Made Modern Monthly Free Issue ©2015 Amy Barickman, LLC

Vintage Made Modern MONTHLY

FREE ISSUE

A Guide to Needlework, Cooking, Sewing, Fashion & FunWith Project & Pattern Supplement


Greetings!Enjoy this free issue of Vintage Made Modern Monthly. Vintage Made Modern Monthly is the continuation of my journey sharing the Woman’s Institute content, which previously inspired my book Vintage Notions. Subscribe and each month you will receive an “e-zine” with curated articles from the original Woman’s Institute Inspiration newsletter and Fashion Service magazine along with a sewing pattern, embroidery design and quilt block.

Why create Vintage Made Modern Monthly? All my life I have been fascinated by fashion, sewing and all things vintage. As the owner of Indygo Junction, a sewing pattern company, and author of a library of sewing books, I have spent a lot of time researching sewing publications used throughout the years. It was during this research that I came upon a name that would have a huge impact on my career, Mary Brooks Picken.

A pioneer in the sewing arts, Mary Brooks Picken was the author of almost 100 needlework, sewing, and textile books. Regarded as an authority on dress, design, and sewing, she founded the Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences (1916-1932). It was through the Institute that she made her largest impact; at one point the institute had an enrollment of 300,000 women across the world connected through its correspondence courses and publications.

When I read the story of Mary Brooks Picken and started to grasp the magnitude of her in�uence, I was compelled to collect and archive her numerous works. I believe I now have acquired the largest collection of Women’s Institute publications in the world. Although this Institute was founded nearly 100 years ago, the treasure trove of lessons and stories are still relevant today and o�er a blueprint for living a contented life.

Inside the pages of this e-zine you will �nd articles on sewing, cooking, decorating and even upcycling as well as testimonials from students. Fashion Service was another popular Woman’s Institute publication. I have hand-picked my favorite articles to supplement each issue of Inspiration. As you read the material, look for highlighted passages in the text. �ese are passages that really speak to me and I especially want to share them.

Enjoy creative projects conveniently delivered to your Inbox! Each monthly issue will o�er three projects. �e sewing patterns will include garments, bags, sewing organizers, aprons and more. Each month will have a specially chosen embroidery design. Use it to embellish a new project or ready-made item. Look for the monthly quilt block, o�ered in two sizes, to create a table runner, pillow, potholder or purse. Or, save them to make our exclusive Vintage Made Modern quilt.

I invite you to join our online community. Visit www.amybarickman.com/vintagemademodern to sign up today for a year of needlework, cooking, sewing, fashion, and fun.

So Enjoy! Be Inspired! Get creative!

All my best, Amy



Each Issue of Vintage Made Modern Monthly includes a Fashion Service Supplement. You will read about the fashion styles popular in the early twentieth century and receive a collectible fashion illustration to print and frame.

�e students of the Woman’s Institute would also receive a publication called Fashion Service. Where the Inspiration newsletter instructed them on all aspects of the domestic arts, not only sewing but also cooking, housekeeping, decorating, etc., Fashion Service was devoted entirely to giving current fashions with a key to their development.

Fashion Service prided itself on providing it’s readers with reliable style information and the newest fashion forecasting. �e publication wasn’t just eye candy. �e Institute stressed the importance of studying the fashions to bene�t the sewer’s understanding of dressmaking. To quote founder Mary Brooks Picken, “Once the principles of design...and of construction… are understood, beautiful garments will result. �is publication comes to you as an aid to this desired goal. Read the text of every page and reason out the why of every illustration and description that your comprehension of designing and construction may be enlarged and your appreciation made more acute.”

Today, these articles and illustrations give us a historically accurate view of what fashion really meant 100 years ago. Not only can we study these articles for an “of-the-time” style snapshot, but just as their students did, we can also learn to understand the principles of design and increase our sewing skills.

SUPPLEMENT

Vintage Made Modern Monthly ©2015 Amy Barickman, LLC.


Excerpt from Woman’s Institute Fashion Service Fall & Winter 1922-1923

Vintage Made Modern Monthly Free Issue ©2015 Amy Barickman, LLCVintage Made Modern Monthly Free Issue ©2015 Amy Barickman, LLC

Excerpt from Woman’s Institute Fashion Service Fall & Winter 1920-1921


Pattern and Project Supplement

Vintage Made Modern MONTHLY

Sewing Project

Embroidery Project

Quilting Block & Projects


Vintage Made Modern MONTHLYFree Issue Projects

Checkerboard Bag LOVE Tea Towel

Road to Oklahoma Quilt Block, Heating Pad,

and Mug Rug


Embroidery Project: LOVE Tea Towel

Materials:

1 ready-made cotton tea towel

1 skein of embroidery floss

Embroidery hoop

Embroidery needles

Embroidery stabilizer such as Sulky Fabri-Solvy (optional)

1. Trace or transfer the design to your tea towel using one of the following methods.

Iron-On Transfer Pencil + PensWith this method you can turn any design into a heat transfer by tracing the design onto regular typing paper. Then, following manufacturer’s instructions, transfer the design to your fabric with an iron. These pencils and pens work with both lightweight and heavier-weight fabrics, however, they are permanent, so use carefully.

Another option would be to transfer the design to a stabilizer such as Sulky’s Fabri-Solvy. The trace and transfer method is the same as above, however, when you finish stitching you rinse, tear, or cut away the stabilizer, depending on manufacturer’s instructions. Keep in mind that many stabilizers are sheets that can be fed through a printer. To print the designs in this magazine, you can use an inkjet printer or a copier. Then, follow manufacturer’s instructions to adhere the stabilizer to your foundation fabric, hoop and stitch.

2. Cross Stitch the word LOVE. Separate your strands of floss so you are working with four strands.

When you create a cross stitch embroidery design there are two things to remember. Keep the crosses regular in shape and size, and the stitches must cross in the same direction. Traditionally, the upper stitch should slope from the left upwards to the right.

There are two methods to cross stitch. In the first, you can complete each cross before the next is commenced. This produces the most even crosses. This is the method recommended for stitching this LOVE tea towel.

A quicker way to stitch a larger design is to work the first half of each stitch along the row, and then add the second half on the return journey.

3. Embroider around the heart outline using stem stitch.

4. When you are finished stitching, clip your threads and, following manufacturer’s instructions, remove any stabilizer if you chose to use it. Enjoy!

LOVESTEM STITCH

CrossStitch

Stem Stitch


Sewing Project: Checkerboard Bag

Materials Needed: Cotton Version• 1/8 yard of 8 different cotton weight fabric

OR 1 Mini Charm Pack • 1/3 yard heavy weight fabric such as Crossroads Denim

for body and straps• 1/3 yard fabric such as Crossroads Denim for backing and lining

Materials Needed: Wool Version (Original design by Tamara Vandergri� for Indygo Junction)• 1/8 yard or 9” x 12” rectangles of wool in 8 different colors• 1/3 yard wool for body and straps• 1/3 yard cotton fabric for backing and lining

Materials Needed: Either Version• Optional: 25 assorted buttons – metals and plastics in neutral colors (vintage buttons were used in the sample)• One skein DMC embroidery floss • Scissors and/or rotary cutter• Ruler, dressmaker’s pencil• Cardstock/heavy paper for templates• One large 1/2” snap fastener

Measuring and cutting instructions follow.RST = Right Sides TogetherWST = Wrong Sides TogetherRSO = Right Sides OutWSO = Wrong Sides Out

Assembly:1. On a piece of scrap cardstock or heavy paper, measure out and draw a 2 1/2” square to use as a template OR use your pre-cut squares from the mini-charms pack. Cut 2 1/2” squares from the 8 different fabrics in the following amounts: 5 fabric A, 4 fabric B, 3 fabric C, 7 fabric D, 3 fabric E, 1 fabric F, 1 fabric G and 2 fabric H. For the back of the bag, cut a rectangle from body/strap fabric that is 10 1/2” x 10 1/2”. Cut two strips from body/strap fabric that are 2 1/2” x 28” for the straps. From the same fabric, cut a binding piece that is 1 1/2” x 20 1/2”. Cut a 10 1/2” x 10 1/2” square of backing fabric. Cut a rectangle from the backing/lining fabric that is 10 1/2” x 21” for the bag lining.

2. Following the placement diagram for wool version and the photo of cottom version, stitch the squares RST in 1/4” seams in sequence. Begin with row one and work left to right. Stitch other rows as for row one. Press all seams open. Continuing to follow the diagram and photo, stitch the rows together in sequence from top to bottom. Press seams open.

3. With the right side up, center the patchwork on the right side of the backing fabric. Press both pieces. Keep grain of backing straight with seams on the patchwork. (Patchwork will be slightly smaller than backing fabric due to all the seams.) Pin the patchwork to the backing and baste around outer edges. As well, baste diagonally from corner to corner and through the center sides, top, and bottom of the patchwork square. Basting keeps the piece from shifting as the embroidery is completed.

4. With your machine, zig zag stitch (or use a decorative stitch) along the patchwork seam lines. Stitch vertical rows first, top to bottom, then horizontal left to right. OR hand-embroider with three strands of floss, make diagonal whipstitches around each square. The direction of the stitches is up to you. All stitches should face the same direction. As you stitch, be sure that you are also catching in the backing fabric for stability. Do not whip stitch outer edges.

5. Remove basting from patchwork panel. Optional: Arrange a button in the center of each square and stitch in place.

6. With the right side up, lay patchwork panel on bag back fabric. If the patchwork is smaller than the bag back, trim the back to fit. With RST, pin the patchwork to the bag back along sides and bottom. Stitch in 1/4” seam. Clip corners diagonally. Press seams open. Turn bag RSO.

7. Make lining: With RST, fold lining in half crosswise so that fold of fabric creates the bottom of the piece. Pin and stitch the side seams together in 1/4” seam. Compare lining to bag. If patchwork has “shrunk-up” considerably, adjust the width of the lining by sewing deeper side seams so that lining will fit

The fabric featured for the cotton version isThe Jinny Beyer Palette–Galaxy for RJR Fabrics


easily inside the bag. With lining WSO, place lining inside bag, matching side seams and bottoms. If lining is taller than bag, trim the upper edge even with bag. Baste upper edges of lining and bag together.

8. On binding piece, fold and press one raw 20 ½” edge ¼” to the wrong side of fabric.

9. Apply binding: Beginning at the center back of bag, RST, pin one end of binding to bag, matching raw edges. Pin binding around entire bag and overlap opposite end over first by 1/2”. Cut off excess binding. Stitch binding to upper edge of bag with a 1/4” seam allowance. Turn binding to the front of the bag, encasing raw edges. Place folded edge of binding along seam line and slipstitch in place.

10. Make straps: Fold straps in half lengthwise WST. Press. Open strap and fold one raw edge in to meet middle fold line. Press. Repeat with other raw edge. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, pin. Topstitch 1/8” from each long edge. On inside of bag, place end of one strap over left side seam, having end of strap 1/4” past slipstitched edge of binding. Pin and baste. Repeat for other strap, try bag on over shoulder and adjust other end of strap to desired length. On outside of bag, topstitch strap ends in place “in the ditch” of the binding seam so the stitching is hidden. Knot ends of straps together.

10. Sew snap parts to the inside of the center front and center back of bag just below edge of binding. Remove all basting.

Fabric placement diagram. Right Side UpL R

a b c c b

d e a b h

f d e a d

d a g d c

h b d e a

Sewing Project: Checkerboard Bag (Cont.)


Quilt Block: Road to OklahomaThe block featured was sourced from the Kansas City Star quilt patterns (1928 - 1961).

While we wanted to share the original block design with you, today’s modern quilting tools & techniques have allowed us to create new instructions with shortcuts for quick & easy quilting!

Original Vintage Block


Quilt Block: Road to Oklahoma

Materials Needed:1 fat quarter for fabric A1 fat quarter for fabric B

Cutting Instructions for 8” Block:Cut six 2 ½” squares of fabric ACut six 2 ½” squares of fabric BCut one 5” square of fabric ACut one 5” square of fabric B

Cutting Instructions for 6” Block:Cut six 2” squares of fabric ACut size 2” squares of fabric BCut one 4” square of fabric ACut one 4” square of fabric B

Assembly:1. Place the 5” squares of fabric A and fabric B right sides together. Stitch around the four edges using a ¼” seam allowance.

2. Lay a ruler on the square running diagonally from the top left corner to the bottom right. Draw a line. Repeat, laying the ruler from the top right corner to the bottom left. Use a rotary cutter to cut from corner to corner, or cut with scissors. You will end up with 4 triangles.

3. Open a triangle, pressing seam allowance toward fabric B. Repeat for the other three triangles. You will end up with four squares that are half fabric A, half fabric B.

Following the diagram below, sew row 1, row 2, row 3 and row 4. Press seam allowances on rows 1 and 3 in one direction and rows 2 and 4 in the opposite direction. As you join your rows, this will allow the seams to nest together, thereby laying flat.

Modern Block Instructions


Quilt Block: Road to Oklahoma

Microwaveable Heating PadMaterials:One finished 8” Road to Oklahoma Quilt BlockOne 8” square piece of coordinating fabric, such as Crossroads Denim2-3 cups of riceOptional: essential oil such as cinnamon or lavender

Assembly:1. Place quilt block and the 8” square wrong sides together. Trim edges with pinking shears or a zig zag blade in your rotary cutter. Pin.

2. Use a zig zag stitch to sew a ¼” seam allowance around the four sides, leaving a 3” opening on one side.

3. Fill your quilt block with the rice. Don’t fill the bag too full, it should be able to drape. *If desired, add the essential oil of your choice to the rice.

4. Using a zig zag stitch, sew your 3” opening closed.

5. Microwave 2 to 3 minutes to heat, then enjoy!

Mug RugMaterials:1 finished 6” Road to Oklahoma Quilt Block1 6” square piece of coordinating fabric such as Crossroads Denim1 6” square of double sided fusible webbing

Assembly:1. Lay your quilt block on the 6” piece of coordinating fabric, wrong sides together.

2. Trim edges using pinking shears or a zig zag blade in your rotary cutter.

3. Lay 6” square of coordinating fabric wrong side up. Place 6” square of fusible webbing on top. Place the quilt block right side up on top of fusible webbing. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the quilt block to your coordinating fabric.

4. Topstitch around all four edges with a ¼” seam allowance.


Did you enjoy reading Inspiration - our Vintage Made Modern Monthly Ezine? �e timeless wisdom & creative projects can continue to inspire you each month when you subscribe to our Vintage Made Modern Monthly Club.

Your annual membership includes:

• 12 issues of Inspiration – our Vintage Made Modern Monthly Ezine

• 12 embroidery designs & stitch diagrams

• 12 sewing patterns

• 12 quilt blocks in 2 sizes & coordinating projects

• 2 exclusive quilt designs using VMMM quilt blocks

• Content conveniently delivered each month to your inbox via email

• Giveaways of fabric & products every month for members only!

For a limited time pre-order to receive 50% o� the cover price ($12.99/issue) PLUS an autographed copy of Amy Barickman’s Vintage Notions book ($29.99 retail value)

SUBSCRIBE NOW at www.amybarickman.com/vintagemademodern

Vintage Made Modern Monthly FREE Issue - with Project Supplement

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