VINO - Wine and Moorewineandmoore.com/files/espana-vino-sample.pdf · This is a brief overview of...

accessible • informative • portable

A new and concise E guide to all Spain’s wine regions, Bodegas,

wine producers and wines

featuringgreat value and remarkable wines from over 700 of the country’s finest wineries

by the award winning wine writer

David Moore

VINO

about the sample

a wine and moore guide 2

About the sample E guide and background

Background to the sample E guide This is a brief overview of the España Vino E guide and this sample to give you an idea of what to expect in the full edition. The guide is a comprehensive review of the wine regions, appellations and in particular the top (bodegas) wineries in Spain.

It has been written in a straight forward no frills way to give readers an easy understanding of what has become one of the world’s most vibrant and evolving wine producing countries over the past decade or so. The advent of the credit crunch and Spain’s unfortunate economic woes of the present should not detract from the wine develoments that have happened here in recent years. Modern Spanish wine offers consumers diversity, quality and value for money.

Specific points about the sample E guide The sample is very easy to use and follows the full guide with a small selection of regions and bodegas that are covered in the same way as they are in the full edition. Readers will also get a clear idea of how to navigate around the guide. A sample from the appendices is also included and photo and other credits given specifically for the sample.

The introduction, contents and how to use sections of the full guide are fully replicated with guidance on wine price and quality as well as navigation tips. The sample has been prepared so that readers can easily see exactly how the full edition works and includes identical links and cross references of bodegas and regions.

The contents shown are from the full guide but page numbering for regions covered in the sample are given in brackets.

The full edition features wine review information on over 730 wineries. The sample gives readers wine details on 74 bodegas, we feel a very comprehensive selection.

A brief explanation of the download and subscription costThe full E guide itself is available for download with a one year subscription of £10 that covers both the guide and 2 full updates over the year, with many new full bodega profiles added. To continue accessing the updates, simply renew at the end of your annual subscription. Each update is available as a new fully revised E guide; replace your old one or keep a collection.

introduction


About the E guide

Background to the Guide This new regional Spanish wine E guide is part of a new series of regional wine guides. It will be partnered in the spring by a wine travel supplement. Further details are available on the Wine and Moore website www.wineandmoore.com. It is intended to be a reference information resource not only to Spain with her many and diverse wines and wine regions but also to the top quality bodegas large and small that have moved Spanish wines forward apace over the past decade. It is also intended as a useful aid to wine purchasing, whether for consumers or the wine trade. A free to use wine merchant and buying guide will be available shortly on the website which may be used in conjunction with the E guide.

Spanish wine now Spain is the third largest of Europe’s wine producing countries. The character and style of wine produced has evolved considerably over the past couple of decades. Twenty five years ago many wine consumers viewed Spain as a source either for her traditional Riojas, her sherries or for cheap table wines from the hot, arid central vineyards of La Mancha. A considerable diversity of wines are now made, from the traditional, still much favoured at home, to the modern, with new developments both in the vineyards and cellars. This guide provides readers with an easy to use overview of Spain, her regions and bodegas.

About the author David Moore has ten years experience in writing about and reviewing Spanish wine. He has won the awards for the “André Simon International Drink Book of the Year” and “Glenfiddich Drink Book of the Year”. He has also previously gained the award for Wine Guide of the year at the Louis Roederer Wine Writer Awards. He and his co-author are the only writers to have won all three accolades. He has also twice been shortlisted for the Louis Roederer International Drink Book.

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Contents

How to use (7) 6

North-East Spain (10) 9

Cataluña (10) 9Cataluña DO 9Empordà DO 11Pla de Bages DO 17Costers del Segre DO (10) 9Alella DO 24Cava and Penedès DO (11) 26Conca de Barbera DO 38Tarragona DO 40Montsant DO 41Priorat DO (15) 50Terra Alta DO 73Aragon (18) 75Somontano DO (18) 75Campo de Borja DO 78Calatayud DO 80Cariñena DO 83Single Pago DOPs and Country Wines 85Navarra (19) 86Navarra DO (19) 86Single Pago DOPs and Country Wines 97Pais Vasco (21) 98Chacoli DOs 98La Rioja (21) 101Rioja DOCa (22) 102Country Wines 132

North-West Spain (27) 133

Cantabria (27) 133Asturias (27) 133Castilla y León (27) 134Arlanza DO 134Tierra de León DO 135Bierzo DO 136Ribera del Duero DO (27) 145

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Cigales DO 168Rueda DO (32) 171Toro DO (35) 184Tierra del Vino de Zamora DO 196Arribes DO 197VCs and Country Wines (37) 198Galicia (41) 208Valdeorras DO (41) 208Ribeira Sacra DO 213Ribeiro DO 216Rias Baixas DO 223Monterrei DO 237Country Wines 240

Central Spain (44) 241

Madrid (44) 241Vinos de Madrid DO (44) 241Castilla La Mancha (46) 248Mondéjar DO 249Méntrida DO (47) 249Uclés DO 252La Mancha DO 252Manchuela DO (48) 254Ribera del Júcar DO 257Almansa DO (49) 258Valdepeñas DO 260Single Pago DOPs and Country Wines (50) 261

South-East Spain (54) 270

Communidad Valenciana (54) 270Valencia DO (54) 270Utiel-Requena DO (56) 275Alicante DO 277Single Pago DOPs and Country Wines (57) 282Murcia (58) 283Yecla DO (58) 283Jumilla DO (59) 286Bullas DO 289Country Wines 291

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South-West and Southern Spain (61) 292

Extremadura (61) 292Ribera del Guadiana 292Country Wines 294Andalucía (61) 295Montilla-Moriles DO 296Condado de Huelva DO 298Málaga/Sierras de Malaga DO 298Jerez-Xérès-Sherry/Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO (62) 302VCs and Country Wines (66) 311

The Islands (69) 316

The Balearics (69) 316Pla I Llevant (69) 316Binissalem-Mallorca (70) 317Country Wines (70) 317The Canary islands (71) 321

Appendices (74) 324

Spanish Grape Notes (74) 324Spanish Wine Glossary (75) 331Photo Credits (77) 341Credits and Copyright (78) 346

how to use


How to use

Concept, users and compatibility with our other guides The concept of the two components that will make up our Spanish multi-media guides is that they can be read and used separately or together. Our motto is that the E guides are “accessible, informative, portable”. They will be readable via personal computers, laptops, tablets and iPads in this easy to use and importantly searchable pdf format and compatible with e book reading devices. You will also be able to use your mobile phone to access them. For iPhone users we recommend downloading the very economic pdf reader. The guide will appeal as a quick reference resource for wine enthusiasts as well as all wine professionals. Because of its portable characteristics it’s ideal both as an information resource and a buying guide, whether you are wine resarching, studying, shopping, eating out or travelling.

Ease of use and layout We believe guides are easy to use when they are intuitive and have a minimum of symbols. We have laid the España Vino E guide out in an easy to follow format. It is split into six areas and follows an east to west and then north to south flow across the country. Each of these areas, North-East Spain, North-West Spain, Central Spain, South-East Spain, South-West and Southern Spain and The Islands is divided by its political autonomous communities. For example South-West and Southern Spain include the communities of Extremadura and Andalucia. Within each of these autonomous communities the various regional appellations and other classifications are covered with regional and individual bodega profiles. For all wineries who have a website an internet link is embedded throughout the guide. This provides a really useful resource for readers who are using any web connected reading devices.

Wine regions and classifications Spanish wine classifications and labels are fairly straightforward and easy to follow. Full quality wine appellations are similar to the French Appellation Controlée system and are called Denominación de Origen. These will be abbreviated throughout the guide as DO. A separate higher level exists for currently just two regions, Rioja and Priorat. These are referred to as Denominación de Origen Calificada. They will be abbreviated as DOCa. The vast majority of wines profiled in the guide are bottled and marketed under the DO classification.

In most autonomous community sections there will be a heading Country Wines. This is mainly for Indicación Geográfica Protegida/Vinos de la Tierra (IGP/VT) wines which have a similar set of rules as the French Indication Géographique Protégée IGP/Vin de Pays system. These will be abbreviated as VT for the time being although they are likely to classified as IGP over time. Vino de Mesa are table wines, a few very decent bottles fall outside the normal classification system. These will be abbreviated VdM. A small number of regions are graded as Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada, they are waiting for upgrade to full DO status. These will be abbreviated VC.

Finally there are 15 Single Estates (Vinos de Pago) with DO status. These will be abbreviated DOP.

Wine naming, quality ratings and price guides All the wines covered throughout the guide are categorised as red, white or rosé. Each individual wine is identified by its region, wine/brand name and given a list of grape varieties vinified, a quality rating and a price guide. Three typical examples can be seen here from the Terra Remota bodega profile in the Empordà DO:

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Recommended Reds: Empordà Camino (Syrah, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo) 87-89/ D

Recommended Whites: Empordà Caminante (Garnacha Blanca, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay) 86-88/ C

Recommended Rosés: Empordà Caminito (Syrah, Garnacha, Tempranillo) 86-88/ C

The wine quality ratings are quite straightforward and based on the 100 point scale because this is what most readers are now accustomed to. They are general ratings and wines are given a score range. The ratings are not vintage specific and should be viewed in this light. This is first and foremost a guide to and about bodegas, not individual wines. Each recommended wine is given a quality range rating between 84 and 100. The full list of ratings are; 94-100, 92-95, 90-93, 89-91, 88-90, 87-89, 86-88, 85-87, 84-86 and 84-85.

A wine with an 85-87 rating and price code B would be a great value buy. A wine with an 88-90 rating and a price code of D for example would be excellent quality and still a very good buy for the price. A wine in the 94 to 100 point rage with a price code F would certainly be expensive, likely very expensive but would be among a handful of Spain’s greatest wines.

Prices are taken as a very general estimate and at retail rates. We have tried to take into account local duties and taxes but this is a general guide only. It is quite likely that wines will be available at lower prices locally in Spain. Readers who will be selecting wines when eating out should be looking at a price that will be anywhere from two times and often upwards depending on the stature of the restaurant. In general a wine that is £10/$18 is likely to be £25/$45 or upwards on a restaurant wine list.

The following price codes are used (please note there will be variances in local taxes and exchange rates):

A £0-£8 €0-€10 $0-$14B £8-£12 €10-€15 $14-$21C £12-£18 €15-€22 $21-$32D £18-£25 €22-€30 $32-$45E £25-£50 €30-€60 $45-$90F £50+ €60+ $90+

Wine regions layout After the Bodegas profiles in each section are the Additional recommended bodegas and wines. These have recommended wines with quality, price and grape details in exactly the same format as the full profiles and are bodegas due to be updated shortly. Each section is also completed with Further bodegas to consider. None of the wines from these producers have yet been tasted but they have good reputations. We will be endeavouring to provide profiles for these bodegas in the near future. At the end of many sections you will also find a See also reference. This is where a wine producer may make wines in a number of regions and you will be directed to their main Bodegas profile or listing in Additional recommended bodegas and wines. The producer will be located in the region where they are based, for example Telmo Rodríguez is based in Rioja. See also Easy navigation and maps below.

Wine labels and ageing Spanish wine has a number of officially recognized ageing classifications that are included on labels


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when certain requirements are met. Outside of these classifications wines can be referred to as Vino Joven (young wine) or Sin Crianza (without ageing). Roble is a term also used which refers to a very limited period of oak ageing.

The common ageing classifications are Crianza, where a red wine must be aged for a minimum of two years with 6 months in oak. For whites and rosés the minimum is one year. For red Reservas there is a minimum period of three years ageing and at least one year in oak. For both whites and rosés the periods are 2 years ageing and 6 months in barrel. Finally Gran Reserva reds must spend a total of 5 years ageing with a minimum of 18 months in oak and 36 months in bottle. Whites and rosés must be aged for 4 years in total with a minimum of 6 months in oak.

In reality you are very unlikely to come across many aged rosés and Gran Reserva whites are pretty rare. Many modern reds are now made without recourse to these traditional classifications, with a desire for a fresher international style and satisfying international demand for top reds that are immediately approachable. This can also help in minimising occasionally agressive wood tannins in some examples. Traditionally aged and classified wines, particularly in the less exulted appellations, tend to be more popular on the home Spanish market.

Easy navigation and maps In order to aid navigation around the guide we have done a number of things. PDFs now have quite sophisticated search options. You will also be able to move around the guide where you find cross referenced producers underlined. You will be directed where to go for further information, for example “Rioja based Telmo Rodríguez”, you simply navigate to R in the list of Rioja bodega profiles or use the search facility in your Acrobat reader. There are also directions at the end of each regional section where you may find information about a bodega that makes wine in more than one region or area. We are also providing a link to two very good regional maps provided by Wines from Spain. You can download these as separate PDFs, they are an excellent aid to using the guide fully. You can find these under Wine and Travel Guides - Spanish Guides and Free Stuff on the Wine and Moore website.

Free to use pdfs complementing España Vino As well as the wine tourism supplement coming up in the Spring and the Spanish wine maps there are two supplementary free to use pdfs. 1. A vintage guide to all the DO regions covered in the guide. 2. A listing of all bodegas profiled by region, which readers can easily cross reference. A wine merchant/major stockist guide will shortly be available which may be used with España Vino and this will also be available as a pdf.

Abbreviations used There are a number of regional abbreviations (see Wine regions and classifications). Three grape varieties are occasionally abbreviated, Cabernet Sauvignon (Cab Sauv), Cabernet Franc (Cab Franc) and Pedro Ximénez (PX). Descriptions using degrees celsius will simply be referred to as C, for example “fermented at 25 C”. References to hectares will be abbreviated to “ha” and the most common means of yield measurement, hectolitres per hectare, abbrieviated to “hl/ha”.

Photographs used throughout the guide We have been very kindly assisted by many wine producers and regional wine offices in providing photography to enhance the experience of using the guide. We hope these will help to immerse readers in the content and give them more of a feeling for the country. The majority of images are in the same resolution as those you will find on websites generally. Depending on the screen quality and reading device you have the images may differ in clarity. A comprehensive photo credit is given in the Appendices.

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North-East Spain

Of the six sections this guide is divided into the greatest concentration of wines and wine regions are found in the north-east of the country. Along the Mediterranean coastline and some distance inland in Cataluña the wines share both a marked similarity with their counterparts to the north in France’s Roussillon, as well as, in the area of the Penedès DO showing the character of indigenous grapes and providing the majority of Spain’s Cava sparkling wines. To the south of Pamplona are the considerable stretches of both Navarra and Spain’s most identifiable wine appellation, the DOCa of Rioja. The Rioja wine region itself not only crosses into Navarra but also north into the País Vasco where there are crisp whites and nervy reds emerging from the three small Chacolí appellations close to the Biscay coast. Between Cataluña and Navarra the plains of Aragon stretch down southwards from the slopes of the Pyrenees.

Somontano in the more northerly stretches provides a range of wines, many based on international varieties while in the south of the region the three DOs Cariñena, Campo de Borja and Calatayud are notable for old bush vine trained Garnacha.

Cataluña

A wide range of wine styles is produced here in vineyards to the south of the Pyrenees along the Mediterranean coastline. Although some regions stretch a considerable distance inland the local climate is temperate and very much maritime with sea breezes affecting the most coastal sites. The headquarters of the considerable and widespread Cava DO is based in Vilafranca del Penedés. For this reason the appellation will be profiled here in this region.

Costers del Segre DO

A significant appellation in north-east Spain with some dynamic wineries. Established in 1988 there are six sub zones in the west of Cataluña. The climate is more continental than maritime and there are cold winters and hot summers. During the growing season the high diurnal swing between day and night temperatures is key in promoting acidity in the fruit. The majority of the vineyards are planted on soils with significant lime traces. Whites range from fresh

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and crisp to barrel handled and reds are made from a range of grapes with Bordeaux and traditional Mediterranean styles being made.

The BodegasTomas Cusiné www.tomascusine.com

Tomas Cusiné had spent twenty years working with his family property Castell del Remei before deciding to branch out and produce a couple of excellent reds from two small sites acquired in the north of the DO on land neighbouring Montsant and Conca de Barberà. He now has 29 ha under vine and plans to expand this to around 40 ha. The vineyard sites are at an altitude of around 700m and the strong diurnal swing in temperature ensures good acidity in his grapes whilst also being able to harvest at a good level of phenolic ripeness. As well as three reds he also now makes two fine whites, a fresh lightly mineral and fruity Auzells from a range of white varieties and a close to varietal Macabeu (it has a tiny amount of Albariño), Finca Racons. Auzells gets a touch of barrel fermentation and is aged on lees. Of the reds, which are given a pre-fermentation cold soak, Dràc Magic and Llebre are both fruit driven blends, Villosell is ripe, brambly and forward, while the Geol is firmer, a touch more structured but with a fine rounded quality to its tannins. For the Geol the malolactic takes place in barrel. The top two reds will drink very well with 3-4 years’ age. Recommended Reds: Costers del Segre Geol (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marselan, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Carineña) 88-90/ DCosters del Segre Villosell (Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Samsó, Garnatxa ) 87-89/ CCosters del Segre Llebre (Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnatxa, Cariñena, Syrah) 86-88/ CCosters del Segre Dràc Magic (Tempranillo, Garnatxa, Cariñena, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) 86-88/ B

Recommended Whites: Costers del Segre Finca Racons (Macabeu) 87-89/ CCosters del Segre Auzells (Macabeu, Chard, Sauv Blanc, Muller Thurgau, Albariño, Others) 87-89/ C

Cava and Penedès DOs

The Cava sparkling wine DO is spread across Spain and the vineyards are planted in a number of regions. The DO has its headquarters at Vilafranca del Penedès and overlaps much of the Penedès

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vineyard area and indeed 95% of the appellation output comes from here with many of the major Cava houses being located in the small municipality of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia in the Alt Penedès. In Catalunya there are further vineyards planted to the north of Lleida and also just to the north of Girona. In Aragón Cava is produced within the DO boundaries of Carineña and in vineyards spread throughout Rioja. There are also smaller scale plantations to the east of Badajoz in the Extremadura and in the Valencian vineyards of Utiel Requena. The vinification of the wines is by the classic Champagne method, involving a second fermentation in bottle with ageing on lees for varied lengths of time, the minimum period being 9 months. Like Champagne the wines are riddled (moving the yeast settlement to the neck of the bottle), followed by disgorging. With many of the larger houses, gyropalettes (large riddling machines) are common place.

There are three general classifications for ageing requirements, Cava which can be for a minimum of 9 months, Cava Reserva for a minimum of 15 months and Cava Gran Reserva for 30 months and

only for dry and vintage wines. Whites and rosés are produced with white Macabeu, Xarel.lo, Parellada, Subirat and Chardonnay as well as red Garnacha, Monastrell,

Trepat and Pinot Noir being grown. The local varieties, particularly the whites are considered as important for the best wines as the trendy Chardonnay and Pinot.

Not surprisingly with an appellation producing over 20 million cases a year quality can vary widely. There are good, well-priced brands but also some very disappointing wines. As a result of this a number of bodegas are considering leaving, or have left the DO. The best though are very good and offer genuinely interesting alternatives to Champagne. They can often show more terroir character as well, with a combination of fruit, evolved yeast flavours and an underlying minerality.

Recommended producers of Cava and their wines can be found under individual bodega profiles in the other areas covered as well as here. Those wineries who focus solely or mainly on Cava are profiled here.

Like the Cava DO, the headquarters of Penedès are also in Vilafranca del Penedès with the vineyards centred between Tarragona and Barcelona. This is hardly surprising, the appellations cover similar territory and many bodegas produce wines under both classifications.

The DO is also home to Miguel Torres who has done much to put Spain on the international wine map over the past three decades. Output here is considerable, not a long way short of Cava. With a fairly wide range of both wines produced and varieties planted it’s difficult to identify a style in the way you can elsewhere. In general whites are more successful than reds but by no means more expensive.

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The coastal vineyards in the Baix Penedès are relatively productive. Those inland at altitude in the Alt Penedès are lower yielding and produce better quality wines. However the bulk of the regions wines come from the central areas between the coast and the mountains. The soils are quite diverse and sand, clay, stones and outcrops of limestone can be found.

The BodegasAgustí Torelló Mata www.agustitorellomata.com

One of the stand out Cava producers and making almost exclusively sparkling wines, which are of a consistently impressive quality. A cool fermented white XII and Esperit, a marc distilled from Cava

skins are also made. Of the range of Cavas the Rosat Trepat is a fresh fruit-driven rosé with some complexity, the Brut Reserva dry and elegant and with

good depth from 24 months on lees. There are three characterful Gran Reservas, one released in a Magnum size only from old vines and a Barrica in which the primary fermentation is partly in barrel. The top wine, Kripta is among the very best Cavas and is also produced from old vines. The Gran Reservas and Kripta are all released without dosage. The Bayanus wines are solely available in halves.Recommended Whites: Penedès XII Subirat Parent (Subirat Parent) 86-88/ CCava Brut Nature Kripta Gran Reserva Vintage (Macabeo, Xarel.lo, Parellada) 90-93/ ECava Brut Nature Gran Reserva Vintage (Macabeo, Xarel.lo, Parellada) 89-91/ ECava Brut Nature Gran Reserva Barrica Vintage (Macabeo) 89-91/ ECava Brut Nature Bayanus Reserva Vintage (Macabeo, Xarel.lo, Parellada) 88-90/ DCava Brut Reserva Vintage (Macabeo, Xarel.lo, Parellada) 86-88/ C

Recommended Rosés: Cava Brut Nature Bayanus Rosat Reserva Vintage (Trepat) 87-89/ DCava Rosat Reserva Vintage (Trepat) 86-88/ C

Albet i Noya www.albetinoya.cat

Stylish Penedès as well as characterful Cava are both made here and the firm is committed to organic viticulture. A wide range of red and white grapes are cultivated on the 81 ha under vine at their Can Vendrell estate, including a number of experimental varieties. The estate vineyards are planted on the western slopes of the Ordal mountains in the Alt Penedès and the soils are low in fertility and consist of a mix of clay, sand and calcareous stone with just sufficient water retention. The Reserva Marti is the flagship red, Tempranillo dominates the blend with spicy black fruits and a supple structure. Two other similarly priced examples are also made, La Milana from a blend including the local Caladoc as well as Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and a very rare varietal Belat. The wines are aged for between 13 and 24 months, in the case of the Reserva Marti, in small French oak. The

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Lignum Negre is the volume premium red and a stylish peppery Col-Lecció Syrah is aged in used oak. Among the whites the Col-Lecció Chardonnay is barrel fermented and kept on stirred lees, while the El Fanio is lees aged adding texture to its floral, elegant fruit. The Lignum Blanc is crisp and citrusy, three months for the Chardonnay component in oak adding texture and depth. A crisp Macabeo, 3 Macabeus and a pricier small volume white El Blanc are also made. Good quality Cava ranges from the bright floral Petit Albet which spends around a year on lees to the more complex Brut Reserva and Brut 21 which is disgorge dated. The Cava range is completed by a Brut Nature Gran Reserva and a Rosat from Pinot Noir. A light red and white Petit Albet are also made in significant volume. Recommended Reds: Penedès Reserva Marti (Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot.) 88-90/ DPenedès Syrah Col-Lecció (Syrah) 87-89/ CPenedès Lignum (Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot) 86-88/ C

Recommended Whites: Penedès Chardonnay Col-Lecció (Chardonnay) 87-89/ CPenedès El Fanio (Xarel.lo) 86-88/ CPenedès Lignum (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) 86-88/ CCava Brut 21 Reserva NV (Chardonnay, Parellada) 88-90/ DCava Brut Reserva NV (Xarel.lo, Chardonnay, Macabeo, Parellada) 86-88/ CCava Petit Albet Brut Reserva NV ( Xarel.lo, Macabeo, Parellada) 85-87/ C

Torres www.torres.es

Very important and substantial Penedès based firm producing a wide range of wines from not only Penedès but Conca de Barbarà, Ribera del Duero and Priorat. There are well over 20 brands now so the range is very considerable. Notably some of the best reds come from outside the home DO. With an extensive portfolio the best bets are in the mid-range and top-flight labels. Among the reds, Atrium is a plummy, ripe Merlot, and Gran Coronas a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. New to the range is Nerola, mainly Syrah with some Monastrell. The top reds include the

Mas Borrás Pinot Noir which has still to show the quality achieved elsewhere with this tricky variety. The Mas la Plana Cabernet Sauvignon is structured and cedary, and the Grans

Muralles is of real interest – a very local blend of Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Cariñena, Garró and Samsó, full of exotic dark fruit. Reserva Real is a very impressive Bordeaux blend. A Priorat, Salmos has now been joined by a premium Perpetual. Of the whites, the excellent value Viña Esmeralda is a

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blend of Moscatel and Gewürztraminer and has a dollop of residual sugar. More serious is Fransola, a lightly-oaked blend of mainly Sauvignon Blanc with some local Parellada. Milmanda is the pricey top Chardonnay from Conca de Barbarà and Waltraud is a fine lime and mineral-scented Riesling. Top reds are undoubtedly ageworthy; Reserva Real requires considerable patience. The Penedès firm of Jean León has been a part of the operation for some time and its wines are now of a uniformly much higher standard than they were before the acquisition by Torres.Recommended Reds: Penedès Reserva Real (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc) 90-93/ FPenedès Mas La Plana (Cabernet Sauvignon) 89-91/ EPenedès Gran Coronas (Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo) 84-86/ BPenedès Atrium Merlot (Merlot) 84-85/ BConca de Barberá Grans Muralles (Garnacha, Cariñena, Monastrell, Samsó, Garró) 92-95/ FPriorat Perpetual (Cariñena, Garnacha) 88-90/ EPriorat Salmos (Cariñena, Garnacha, Syrah) 85-87/ DRibera del Duero Celeste Crianza (Tempranillo) 86-88 C

Recommended Whites: Conca de Barberá Milmanda (Chardonnay) 88-90/ EPenedès Fransola (Sauvignon Blanc, Parellada) 87-89/ DPenedès Waltraud (Riesling) 86-88/ CPenedès Gran Viña Sol (Chardonnay, Parellada) 85-87/ BCataluña Viña Esmerelda (Moscatel, Gewurztraminer) 85-87 A

Additional recommended bodegas and winesRaventós i Blanc www.raventos.com Recommended Whites: Cava La Finca Vintage ( Xarel·lo, Macabeo, Parellada, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) 89-91/ DCava De Nit (Macabeo, Xarel.lo, Parellada, Monastrell) 88-90/ DCava L’Hereau Reserva Brut (Macabeo, Xarel.lo, Parellada) 87-89/ CPenedès Silencis (Xarel.lo) 87-89/ CPenedès Perfum de Vi Blanc (Moscatel, Macabeo) 86-88/ C

See also for CavaTorremilanos (Ribera del Duero DO)

Priorat DOCa

Spain’s second DOCa (DOQ in Catalan) wine region; a classification that it shares with Rioja. In geographical size Priorat is much smaller than neighbouring Montsant, however it currently has only slightly fewer vineyards planted. There are around 1,800 ha under vine compared to Montsant with just over 2,000 ha. To some degree this helps explain some of the variation in quality. The origins of winegrowing in the region were established at the Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei in the middle ages. By the time phylloxera devastated the vineyards it is believed there were 5,000 ha planted. In the 1980s there were just 600 ha being farmed and the wines were characterful, high in alcohol and somewhat rustic. René Barbier (Clos Mogador) and Álvaro Palacios were the early pioneers of the region, bringing about a dramatic transformation in the quality of the wines and laying the foundations for the potential quality of the modern appellation.

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The regions vineyards vary in altitude and the climate is continental in nature despite the relatively close proximity of the Mediterranean and the higher slopes are more extreme. A number of very localised mesoclimates offer real potential. The soil is dominated by volcanic black slate, known locally as Llicorella. The vines are naturally deep rooting and the slate reflects sunlight and radiates heat back to the plants. The soil no doubt has a part to play in the often piercing mineral character apparent in the wine.

Garnacha is the classic red grape of the region and some very fine old vine examples are made. Cariñena is also important and again, old vine wines can be really striking. Garnacha Peluda is also planted along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Among white varieties Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo are both significant. More unusual is the presence of Pedro Ximénez and Chenin Blanc in a number of blends.

Many new operations have been established, no doubt intending to jump on the trendy Priorat bandwagon of the early 2000s. Around 95% of the vineyard area is now planted to red varieties and a number of examples have shown a tendency towards over extraction, without the balance for real drinkability. The finest wines though are some of Spain’s very greatest; full of depth, character and complexity, offering an opulent mix of minerals, spices and dark fruits.

The BodegasClos Erasmus www.closerasmus.com

A very small as well as very impressive 10 ha Priorat property established in 1989. Two wines are made here: the top wine, Clos Erasmus, is a super-rich blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena; the well-priced second wine, Laurel, is produced from younger vines. Clos Erasmus is given extended ageing in new oak and is a very dense, powerful and exotic style of red with beguiling dark, spicy, savoury fruit. It is both very concentrated and complex, as well as firm and structured when young.Recommended Reds: Priorat Clos Erasmus (Garnacha, Syrah) 92-95/ FPriorat Laurel (Garnacha, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon) 89-91/ E

Ferrer Bobet www.ferrerbobet.com

Elegant and stylish Priorat is made at this small bodega between Falset and Porrera. Two wines are made and are dominated by very old Cariñena and Garnacha from high elevation steeply sloped vineyards. 22 ha has now been planted to a number of varieties at one of the highest points in the appellation and on soils with some of the highest Llicorella content. Sophisticated vinification includes fermentation in small oak vats and ageing in tightly grained French oak with the malolactic

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fermentation in barrel. Selecció Especial is made in very small quantities. The Ferrer Bobet red is a stylish, elegant and very intensely flavoured Priorat with a piercing mineral complexity, rich texture and very polished tannin structure.Recommended Reds: Priorat Ferrer Bobet (Cariñena, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon) 90-93/ E

Mas Martinet www.masmartinet.com

This is a small family-run operation and four excellent reds are made. The bodega was established in 1989 and the wines have gained an enviable and justifiable reputation under winemaker Sara Pérez. The Garnacha is the key variety although Cariñena and Syrah are also important with the vineyards planted in slate soils. The elegant Clos Martinet is the wine on which the reputation of the estate has been developed but the other two single vineyard wines, Els Escurçons and Cami Pesseroles are no less impressive. Martinet Bru is the more forward and excellent fruit driven second wine. Recommended Reds: Priorat Cami Pesseroles (Cariñena, Garnacha) 90-93/ EPriorat Els Escurçons (Garnacha) 90-93/ EPriorat Clos Martinet (Garnacha, Syrah, Cariñena, Cabernet Sauvignon) 90-93/ EPriorat Martinet Bru (Garnacha, Syrah) 89-91/ D

Partida Bellvisos

Very small bodega jointly owned by René Barbier Jnr from Clos Mogador and his winemaker wife Sara Pérez whose family own Mas Martinet. Through their company they also produce the excellent Montsant wines at Venus La Universal. The annual production is just 1,000 bottles a year at present and the wine is produced from steeply sloping vineyards planted on finely drained Llicorella. Around 4 ha is cultivated and the vines are of a significant age, over 60 years which contributes to the rich, spicy old-vine tarry, blackberry complexity of the wine. Partida Bellvisos is a blend of Garnacha Peluda and Carineña. The wine is aged for 20 months in 300 litre barrels to emphasise the quality of its fruit.

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Recommended Reds: Priorat Gratallops Partida Bellvisos (Garnacha Peluda, Carineña) 90-93/ E

Additional recommended bodegas and winesBuil Giné www.builgine.com Recommended Reds: Priorat Pleret Negre (Garnacha, Cariñena, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot) 88-90/ EPriorat Joan Giné Giné (Garnacha, Cariñena, Cabernet Sauvignon) 87-89/ DPriorat Giné Giné (Garnacha, Cariñena) 86-88/ CMontsant Baboix (Garnacha, Cariñena, Ull de Llebre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) 87-89/ DMontsant 17 XI (Garnacha, Cariñena, Ull de Llebre) 86-88/ C

Further bodegas to considerAutor (Rotllan Torra) www.rotllantorra.com

Mas Basté www.cellermasbaste.com

La Conreria de Scala Dei www.vinslaconreria.com

See alsoTorres (Cava and Penedès DO)

Aragon

Often overlooked area of northern Spain. It is though home to a wide range of wines and styles. From the international varieties grown in Somontano to the old bush vine Garnacha found in the warmer, more southerly Calatayud and Cariñena DOs a wide range of wine styles is produced in Aragon. With

its proximity to Rioja and more northerly location Campo de Borja bridges the gap between the appellations, although its best and most expensive wines come from old Garnacha. Cava is also made in Cariñena.

Somontano DO

Moderate sized DO, with just under 5,000 ha under vine. The region is protected by the Pyrenees where the more northerly vineyards of the appellation see higher rainfall. The climate here is continental, cold winters are followed by hot summers and there is a fluctuation between day and night temperatures during the growing season. The sandy-clay soils are also propitious for

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growing grapes with good flavour. There are significant traces of lime and a high alluvial content. A number of international varieties are successfully grown here, among them Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer for whites and Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Merlot for reds. Other key Spanish varieties are also important, Macabeo among the whites and Tempranillo and Garnacha for reds. Whites vary from young fresh and fruity to more structured barrel fermented examples. There are decent, forward rosés and reds that vary from fruit-driven to oak aged. The best are rich and vibrant although in some a leafy, sometimes green character can show itself.

The BodegasBlecua www.bodegablecua.com

Blecua is part of the sizeable Viñas del Vero operation. It is a separate flagship winery and provides a wine that is a selection of the firm’s best fruit sources and made from the best seven Viñas del Vero vineyards. There is an artisan approach to the harvest which is done by hand and the wine is fermented and then macerated in French wooden fermentation vats. The malolactic fermentation then follows with the wine transferred to new Allier French oak barrels. The final wine comes from the best selection of the individual four varieties, which are assembled after 12 months and then aged for a further 8 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. Recommended Reds: Somontano Blecua Reserva (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Tempranillo.) 89-91/ E

Navarra

Like the autonomous community of La Rioja, Navarra has its own similarly named DO. A significant part of the north eastern stretches of the Rioja DOCa are also found in Navarra. The Navarra DO vineyards themselves are on the lower slopes of the Pyrenees and there are also three Single Estate (DOP) appellations.

Navarra DO

The Navarra DO borders Rioja DOCa on its west and south-west boundaries. It also covers a larger geographical area than Rioja and although it has a substantial vineyard area of some 17,000 ha

that is barely more than a quarter of the vineyard area of Rioja. The climate in the north of the appellation is cooler and damper than further south, although summers are still hot throughout the DO.

Grape ripening is also more marginal in the northern stretches with cooler nights. There are five subzones and the soils are quite variable given the size of the area. Garnacha and Tempranillo are the most widely planted of the red grapes while the French interlopers Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are also significant. Whites account for barely 5% of plantings and Viura is the most important of the varieties.

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As a result the majority of the wines made are red and a range of different styles are produced. There are fruit driven easy drinking wines and then traditional Crianzas and Reservas. Some of them tend to resemble Bordeaux, others neighbouring Rioja. Some very good spicy, dark fruited Garnacha based reds are also being produced. The regional portfolio is completed with some barrel fermented whites as well as sweet Moscatels.

The BodegasAroa Bodegas www.aroawines.com

Small and impressive organically farmed bodega cultivating 20 ha of vineyard. There are a range of red and white grapes planted and spread across seven separate vineyards in the Tierra Estella subzone of Navarra where the soils are dominated by clay and limestone. The white Laia is an attractive nutty cool fermented style with clean fresh citrus character. The Larrosa rosado gets 36 hours of maceration on skins and has just sufficient structure to work well with food or on its own,

albeit the alcohol is fairly high around 14%. The Mutiko red offers lots of bright, vibrant berry fruit, with a cool fermentation and a relatively short period on skins. The second tier Jauna red is denser and fuller with bigger, firmer tannins. Ageing is in oak for 18 months after a separate vinification of each variety. The top label Gorena is impressive with a rich, concentrated berry fruit structure and supple finely polished tannins. It was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2005 but the final composition will depend on the best results in the vineyard and may change year by year. Recommended Reds: Navarra Gorena (Final blend varies) 88-90/ DNavarra Jauna (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo) 87-89/ CNavarra Mutiko (Tempranillo, Merlot) 86-88/ B

Recommended Whites: Navarra Laia (Garnacha Blanca) 85-87/ B

Recommended Rosés: Navarra Larrosa (Garnacha, Tempranillo) 86-88/ B

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Artazu

Owned by the Artadi Rioja bodega, this is one of the best producers in Navarra. It was founded in 1996 and the wines are made from very old Garnacha, with vineyards now upwards of 60 years of age from the northerly stretches of the appellation around the village of Valdizarbe. There is a good and fresh Artazuri Rosado. The Artazuri red is a younger wine style whereas the dense and concentrated Santa Cruz de Artazu is aged in 500 litre French oak for up to a year, maintaining the character and quality of the fruit. Artadi also produce impressive reds further south in Alicante at their El Seque property.

Recommended Reds: Navarra Santa Cruz de Artazu (Garnacha) 89-91/ ENavarra Artazuri (Garnacha) 88-90/ C

Pais Vasco

This the Spanish name for the autonomous community of the Basque Country, referred to as Euskadi in Basque. In wine terms it is most immediately associated with the three Txakolina wine regions, Chacolí de Álava-Arabako Txakolina DO, Chacolí de Vizcaya-Bizkaiko Txakolina DO and Chacolí de Guetaria-Getariako Txakolina DO. It is though also home to a substantial proportion of Rioja vineyards in the Alavá province in the south of the community.

La Rioja

The autonomous community of La Rioja is home to the majority of the Rioja DOCa, although a substantial vineyard area of the appellation can be found to the east in Navarra and to the north in the Pais Vasco.

Rioja DOCa

Rioja was the first and one of just two DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) regions, a classification established for a track record of excellence. The second is Priorat. The region is steeped in grape growing history and the origins of its viticulture go back to the Phoenicians and Celtiberians, with the first written indications of winegrowing dating back to 873 AD.

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The region is just to the south of the Cantabrian Mountains, which moderate the climate and afford the vineyards protection from some of the more savage winds in northern Spain. The geographical extent is considerable, 100 kilometres east to west and as much as 40 kilometres north to south. The appellation is split into three sub regions, which provide very characteristic styles of wine.

The Rioja Alta is the most extensively planted and is found in the western stretches of the DOCa where the vineyards are planted at significant altitude. In general the wines here tend to be more nervy and elegant. In the Rioja Alavesa in the north of the region, the vineyards are also found at altitude although they tend to produce slightly fuller and richer wines. Both regions have an influence from the Atlantic in the climate and the soils comprise a mix of chalky-clay in the Rioja Alta and Alavesa with additional alluvial deposits found in the Alavesa. The third region, the Rioja Baja is significantly warmer and enjoys a more Mediterranean climate. It is drier and can be threatened with drought, which has enabled the use of irrigation when conditions demand. A large tract of the vineyard area is planted in Navarra.

The majority of vines planted are red, around 85% and Tempranillo is the most significant. Garnacha Tinta, Graciano and Mazuelo are also cultivated and there is some experimental Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot permitted. The main white varieties consist of Viura, Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca. Some interesting wines have also recently been made using some rarer indigenous varieties, Maturana Tinta, Maturana Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco.

Wine styles are many and varied with fruit driven reds with no use of oak, the traditional wines of the region, red Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas as well as new wave denser, more structured wines that have more tannin and spend less time in small oak. New wave reds are also notable for some extremely high prices. Whites in general tend to spend less time in wood these days with easy forward fruit flavours more the norm.

The BodegasArtadi www.artadi.com

Artadi is the brand name of the Cosecheros Alaveses bodega and an impressive range of new-wave Rioja is produced here from 75 ha. The vineyards are in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa and the vines grown in sparse chalky, gravel and clay soils. The Joven is made with carbonic maceration and sees no oak. The Viñas de Gain and Pagos Viejos come from older vines and are aged in oak. The Grandes

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Añadas is a very limited special bottling only made in the very best years. Finally the sumptuously textured Viña El Pisón comes from a single vineyard, the earliest such release in Rioja. It is one of Spain’s very greatest reds. Recommended Reds: Rioja Viña El Pisón (Tempranillo) 92-95/ FRioja Grandes Añadas (Tempranillo) 90-93/ FRioja Pagos Viejos (Tempranillo) 89-91/ ERioja Viñas de Gain (Tempranillo) 88-90/ DRioja Joven (Tempranillo) 87-89/ C

Recommended Whites: Rioja Viñas de Gain (Viura) 87-89/ C

Bodegas Exopto www.exopto.net

An impressive as well as recently established winery based in Rioja’s Alavesa. Owner Tom Puyaubert draws on 10 ha planted to Tempranillo which comes from the Rioja Alta, as well as Graciano and Garnacha from the Rioja Baja. The late-ripening local climate and finely drained clay/limestone in

the Rioja Alta and the rocky soils of the Baja provides for excellent intensity in the grapes. Most approachable and excellent value is the young wine Bozet b.b. It is aged in a mix of concrete and wooden vats to emphasise the wines fruit. The citrus scented, creamy textured, Horizonte de Exopto Blanco has most recently been added, coming from 30 to 60 year old vines. It is barrel fermented in French oak and aged on fine lees for 12 months. The supple and immediately appealing Horizonte Tinto gains from 12 months in both new and used French oak. Exopto Cuvée Luca is denser and more firmly structured. 18 months in a high proportion of new French oak demands time for the fruit to integrate with a rich texture added by the malolactic fermentation taking place in barrel. Five or six year’s patience will undoubtedly be rewarded. Recommended Reds: Rioja Exopto Cuvée Luca (Graciano, Tempranillo, Garnacha) 90-93/ ERioja Horizonte de Exopto (Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano) 88-90/ CRioja Bozet b.b. (Garnacha, Tempranillo, Graciano) 86-88/ B

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Recommended Whites: Rioja Horizonte de Exopto (Viura, Garnacha Blanca, Malvasía) 88-90/ C

Marques de Murrieta www.marquesdemurrieta.com

This most conservative of Rioja bodegas produces traditional reds and whites exposed to considerable periods of oak-ageing. There are some 300 ha of vineyards and production is sizeable at 250,000 cases or so a year. Gran Reservas are now all released under the Castillo d’Ygay label and Reservas are now simply Murrieta. The white Reserva Capellania is citrusy with very marked vanilla essence – oaky but good. The red Reserva and Gran Reserva can be more variable. At their best they are splendidly rich, particularly the Castillo d’Ygay Especial which can be of a different order. In a concession to new-wave Rioja styles a premium red, Dalmau, is now produced. It is firm, structured and above all elegant and it should develop well with 5 or 6 years’ cellaring. A less oaked, straightforward white Misela has also been made in Rioja, and in Rías Baixas a peachy, lightly exotic white Pazo de Barrantes. Recommended Reds: Rioja Dalmau Reserva (Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano) 90-93/ FRioja Gran Reserva Especial Castillo d’Ygay (Tempranillo, Mazuelo) 90-93/ ERioja Reserva (Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Garnacha, Graciano) 88-90/ D

Recommended Whites: Rioja Reserva Capellania (Viura) 87-89/ C

Bodegas Roda www.roda.es

Impressive 76 ha Rioja property producing two Reservas and a new-wave Rioja super cuvée, the very pricey Cirsion as well as an approachable forward younger wine style Sela which comes from youthful

vines. The property was established in 1987 although much of the vineyard is well over 30 years old. Current plantings comprise mainly Tempranillo with a smattering of Graciano and Garnacha. Roda I is the flagship of the two Reservas, powerful and concentrated but with an underlying spicy, berry fruit character. Roda is a touch lighter but still much more than a second wine. Cirsion, aged in all new French oak, is rich, structured and cedary – a wine of great finesse and breeding. The firm have also

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established a new project, La Horra, in Ribera del DueroRecommended Reds: Rioja Cirsion (Tempranillo) 92-95/ FRioja Roda I Reserva (Tempranillo) 90-93/ ERioja Roda Reserva (Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano) 89-91/ DRioja Sela (Tempranillo, Graciano) 86-88/ C

Telmo Rodríguez www.telmorodriguez.com

Telmo Rodríguez is one of Spain’s great winemaking stars. From his base in Logroño he produces an extensive range of wines from throughout the country in highly diverse styles and now with significant vineyard holdings across a number of appellations which are farmed organically. A good, fresh, fruit-driven Rueda, Basa Blanco, is vinified mainly from Verdejo. This is joined by a more structured and much lower volume 100% Verdejo, El Transistor vinified and raised in a mix of small oak, cement and stainless steel. Three good to very good examples of Ribera del Duero are produced

including the exceptional Matellana which is rich, dense and full of dark fruit and smoky spices. It will improve for a decade or more. The Rioja Lanzaga is intense and elegant with a supple structure and vibrant dark berry fruit, whereas the Altos de Lanzaga is rich, stylish and impressively

structured with well-integrated oak and very good depth. Toro offers the well-priced Dehesa Gago and opulent, spicy, ageworthy Pago La Jara. Some fine reds are also produced from less established areas. From Cigales comes the leafy, light berry-fruited Viña 105. The Pegaso comes from old bush vines planted in slatey soils in the far south of Castilla y León, around the village of Cebreros. It is tight and well crafted, with a mix of dark herb scented fruit and a piercing, very classy mineral quality from the slate soils it comes from. A further Cebreros red Pegaso Granito comes from granite based soils. Of equal interest is the splendid Moscatel-based Málaga, Molino Real, which has remarkable richness and intensity. A second Málaga MR is more fruit driven, raised in stainless steel rather than oak and there is a Sierra de Málaga Moscatel as well from old bush vines, Mountain Blanco. Other wines to consider are a red and white from Valdeorras, Gaba do Xil, respectively from Mencia and Godello as well as a young red style Al Muvedre from Alicante, an expression of bush vine Monastrell. All the top reds will develop very well with age. Recommended Reds: Rioja Altos de Lanzaga (Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha) 90-93/ ERioja Lanzaga (Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha) 88-90/ C

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Ribera del Duero Matellana (Tinto Fino) 92-95/ FRibera del Duero M2 (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ ERibera del Duero Gazur (Tinto Fino) 88-90/ DCigales Viña 105 (Tempranillo, Garnacha) 88-90/ CToro Pago La Jara (Tinta de Toro, Albillo) 90-93/ EToro Dehesa Gago (Tinta de Toro) 88-90/ CVT Castilla y León Pegaso (Garnacha) 89-91/ D

Recommended Whites: Málaga Molino Real (Moscatel) 92-95/ EMálaga MR Moscatel (Moscatel) 88-90/ C

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North-West Spain

For the purposes of this guide the North-West of Spain covers a vast tract of land which includes the autonomous communities of Cantabria and Asturias, both of which are on the northern coastline on the Bay of Biscay. The odd wine is produced here but perhaps best known are the ciders of Asturias. In viticultural terms by far the most geographically extensive of the communities is Castilla y León, covering a very substantial area. In the far

north-west unique whites and the odd cool climate red emerge from Galicia.

Cantabria

The coastal community of Cantabria is little known for wine making. There are two VTs, Liébana borders onto Castilla y León and Costa de Cantabria which is coastal and in the west as well as being a small way east of Santander. Liébana can produce both reds and whites and Mencia and Tempranillo would both appear to have some potential. Costa de Cantabria wines more immediately resemble some of the neighbouring styles from the Pais Vasco and the Hondarribi grapes both red and white are cultivated. Godello, Albariño, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürtztraminer and Treixadura are all permitted for whites and should be worth keeping track of.

Asturias

There is just one wine region in Asturias, Cangas, which has just been upgraded to VC status. Although Asturias is much better known for its excellent ciders, Cangas is only a short distance immediately north of Bierzo. It is perhaps no coincidence that the red Mencia is cultivated. A range of other grapes are also permitted and Albarín and Albillo can also be found.

Castilla y León

Some of the countries best-known DOs are here and new ones are emerging. Under the all encompassing VT of Castilla y León some great results are now being achieved, not just in the heart of Castilla y León but also in the south of the area in the Gredos Mountains, wines that have more in common with neighbouring Central Spanish DOs of Vinos de Madrid and Méntrida.

Ribera del Duero DO

This is the best known of the appellations of Castilla y León and produces both reds and rosés but no whites. A number of bodegas produce a Rueda as well as their reds. It is believed that wine

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has been produced here for thousands of years and Benedictine monks are known to have had a significant influence on viticulture in the 12th century. Spains most famous red wine producer Vega Sicilia was established in 1864 but it is much more recently that a host of world-class wines have begun to emerge along with many pretenders.The biggest criticisms levelled at the reds here is the use of too much new wood and heavily toasted oak at that. Some wines show too many drying wood tannins and not enough chewy grape tannins. The best though are powerful, structured and compelling.

The DO is located on the elevated northern plateau of the Iberian Peninsula and extends a considerable distance east to west through the provinces of Soria, Segovia, Burgos and Valladolid. The meandering river Duero is barely more than a stream and has little impact on grape growing. Of much more import are the south facing slopes to the north of the river. The geology of the region is very diverse with a very rocky landscape and there are pockets of clay, silt, limestone and marl.

Tempranillo (known locally as Tinto Fino) is the most important variety. The extreme climate of hot summers, day/night temperature fluctuations, as a result of an altitude of 750 to over 900 metres, provides for thick-skinned grapes with marked acidity and wines of potentially considerable depth and structure. Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the white Albillo are also planted. The rosados are fresh and fruity and the reds range from more fruit driven joven styles to Gran Reservas. More modern styles are also made, as they are at Rioja, which spend less time in wood and are more “international” in style.

The BodegasAalto www.aalto.es

Very impressive estate producing a richly concentrated, dense, modern style of Ribera del Duero.

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The operation is relatively small, Aalto owns 42 ha which is effectively farmed organically across a number of plots in the provinces of Valladolid and Burgos. All the vines are over 45 years old and yields can easily be kept to a minimum. Among the small group of partners Mariano Garcia looks after winemaking; formerly he spent 30 years as the enologist at Vega Sicilia and is now also involved with the exceptional VT Bodega Mauro as well Maurodos in Toro. Javier Zaccagnini runs the new wave Rueda bodega Ossian. The winemaking regime ensures careful sorting and ageing in 70% new French oak. The wine is powerful, supple and very complex, full of dark fruits and oriental spices. The PS bottling adds an extra dimension and is only released in the best vintages.Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Aalto PS (Tinto Fino) 92-95/ FRibera del Duero Aalto (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ E

Alonso del Yerro www.alonsodelyerro.com

The del Yerro family produce two modern, fleshy examples of Ribera del Duero. The bodega is based in the town of Roa, in Burgos in the heart of the DO. Winemaking consultancy comes from Bordelais Stéphane Derenencourt and the wines certainly have the elegance and purity he nearly always weaves into the reds he produces. Vineyards were purchased very recently in 2002 and the family have 30 ha spread across four separate plots. Only Tempranillo is planted and the altitude of the various sites varies between 800 and 840m. This coupled with meagre soils, yielding barely 30 hl/ha, contributes to the quality. The vineyard is as yet still young at 15 years so the potential is all there. Hand harvesting is followed by a rigorous sorting and the fruit is fed under gravity to the fermentation tanks. An extensive vatting of a month or more is followed by malolactic in barrel. The wines are kept on their lees with some stirring and micro-oxygenation. The resulting wines are dark, spicy and finely structured with added dimension in the Maria cuvée. A Toro, Paydos is also now being made from just under 9 ha with vines dating back to the 1930s.Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Maria (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ ERibera del Duero Alonso del Yerro (Tinto Fino) 89-91/ E

Pago de Carraovejas www.pagodecarraovejas.com

Top Ribera del Duero operation founded in 1988. There are 60 ha of vineyards planted to a mix of 75% Tempranillo and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery is modern and very well equipped with

stainless steel and temperature control. No vino joven is made. Ageing is in a mix of new and one and two year old French and American oak. The Crianza is rich and concentrated

with impressive dark berry fruit and full, supple tannins. The Reserva, which gets longer ageing, is fuller and offers greater depth and dimension. These are sturdy, initially backward and powerful wines which demand to be cellared. A very pricey limited cuvée “Cuesta Las Llebres”, which sees 24 months in new French oak, completes the range.

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Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Cuesta Las Llebres (Tinto Fino) 92-95/ FRibera del Duero Reserva (Tinto Fino) 89-91/ ERibera del Duero Crianza (Tinto Fino, Cabernet Sauvignon) 88-90/ D

Bodegas La Horra www.bodegaslahorra.es

This is a new project from Bodegas Roda in Rioja who have spent 4 years researching the best potential sites for Tinto Fino in the region. La Horra is a joint venture partnership with local growers who farm 40 ha of old vine parcels in the province of Burgos. Currently two wines, both branded Corimbo are crafted. The Corimbo is a more forward approachable style, particularly in the context of this appellation. Corimbo I is bigger, fuller and with a richer texture and more structured. Average vine age is around 20 years and vinification is traditional in a mix of stainless steel and wooden vats and ageing is in mainly French and a little American oak, the Corimbo I seeing a little longer in barrel, 16 months as opposed to 12 for the Corimbo. Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Corimbo I (Tinto Fino) 89-91/ ERibera del Duero Corimbo (Tinto Fino) 87-89/ D

Emilio Moro www.emiliomoro.com

Emilio Moro is one of the benchmark bodegas in Ribera, now run by Jose Moro, the third generation of his family here. The vineyards are planted on sites that range from 750 to 1,000 metres above sea level and in varied chalk, clay and loam soils. There are four distinct vineyards, the oldest of them

Valderramiro was planted in 1924 in clay and chalk. It is responsible for the special cuvée top wine Malleolus de Valdeorrama, a very concentrated, rich and spicy mineral scented and structured red. A small range is produced. The entry level wine is the forward, straightforward cherry scented Finca Resalso which comes

from young vines less than 15 years old. The other wines are more structured, with greater depth. The Emilio Moro label is now a crianza style rather than labelled as such to emphasise its fruit. The Malleolus red too eschews traditional ageing characteristics and sees 18 months in new French oak. It is dark, spicy and concentrated and needs cellaring. As well as the splendid Valdeorrama two other small volume and very high price reds are also made, Malleolus Sanchomartin from the Pago de Sanchomartin vineyard in Pesquera de Duero and the Clon de La Familia of which barely 1,000 bottles a year are made.Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Malleolus Valderramiro (Tinto Fino) 92-95/ F

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Ribera del Duero Malleolus (Tinto Fino) 89-91/ ERibera del Duero Emilio Moro (Tinto Fino) 87-89/ DRibera del Duero Finca Resalso (Tinto Fino) 86-88/ B

Dominio de Pingus

Now a cult wine among the top Ribera del Duero reds and rivalled for price only by Vega Sicilia and the top limited cuvées from Priorat. Pingus was in fact only established as recently as 1995. Very modern in style and approach, the wine is richly concentrated and has remarkably intense, pure, dark and spicy fruit. Malolactic fermentation in barrel provides a supple, velvety texture resulting in a wine which is not only approachable but very ageworthy. The second label, Flor de Pingus, is also impressive and pricey and there is a micro-cuvée Amelia which is a single barrel selection. A completely separate project is PSI which can be purchased for considerably less.Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Pingus (Tinto Fino) 94-100/ FRibera del Duero For de Pingus (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ FRibera del Duero PSI (Tinto Fino) 88-90/ D

Torremilanos www.torremilanos.com

Established by the Penalba López family in 1975, winegrowing at this estate dates back to 1903. There are now over 200 ha under vine with some plots approaching 100 years old. A small range of both traditional and modern Ribera del Duero is produced as well as a white Cava, Peñalba López. The simplest Ribera bottlings are the rosado Tempranillo with bright strawberry fruit and the supple approachable Roble which gets just four months in oak. Both take the Monte Castrillo label. There are two further fruit driven styles, Los Cantos de Torremilanos and Torremilanos. Also under the Torremilanos label there is a Crianza which shows a good balance of fruit and French oak which is used for ageing for around 13 months. There are two Reservas, Torremilanos is solely Tempranillo, the Torre Albériz includes a little Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot adding an additional dimension. Cyclo is very different in style and approach. Vinification is more modern, with richly textured dark-berry fruit and well judged sweet oak. A very pricey top label red, Torremilanos El Roble Viejo comes from 90 year old vines planted in the family Roble Viejo vineyard.Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Cyclo (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ ERibera del Duero Torre-Albeniz Reserva (Tinto Fino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) 88-90/ DRibera del Duero Torremilanos Reserva (Tinto Fino) 88-90/ CRibera del Duero Torremilanos Crianza (Tinto Fino) 87-89/ CRibera del Duero Monte Castrillo Roble (Tinto Fino) 86-88/ C

Recommended Whites: Cava Peñalba López (Viura, Albillo) 84-86/ C

Recommended Rosés: Ribera del Duero Monte Castrillo Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) 84-86/ B

Vega Sicilia www.vega-sicilia.com

This is Spain’s great icon winery. In terms of its long established reputation it can only be compared with a small handful of wine producers elsewhere. While the quality of its wines in Ribera del Duero in recent years has been challenged by the likes of Pesquera and Dominio de Pingus, Vega Sicilia remains quite distinct in style and approach. The top wine, Unico is still given extended cask-maturation, although this has been reduced to help preserve the wine’s vibrancy. A non-vintaged

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Reserva Especial is also produced – very expensive and evolved in style as well as very intense and complex. The second wine, Valbuena, has much more obvious fruit character.Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Unico (Tinto Fino) 94-100/ FRibera del Duero Reserva Especial (Tinto Fino, Cabernet Sauvignon) 94-100/ FRibera del Duero Valbuena (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ E

Additional recommended bodegas and winesEmina www.emina.es Recommended Reds: Ribera del Duero Atio (Tinto Fino) 90-93/ ERibera del Duero Prestigio (Tinto Fino) 89-91/ ERibera del Duero 12 Meses (Tinto Fino) 87-89/ CRibera del Duero Pasión (Tinto Fino) 86-88/ C

Recommended Whites: Rueda Emina Verdejo (Verdejo) 86-88/ B Rueda Emina (Verdejo, Viura) 85-87/ B

See alsoTelmo Rodríguez (Rioja DOCa)Torres (Cava and Penedès)

Rueda DO

This DO located to the west of the city of Valladolid, is known mostly for fresh styles of white wine but is also a source of small amounts of red as well. The climate is continental and while the summers are hot, they are not comparable with Ribera del Duero to the east. In the north of the region the soils have a high alluvial and lime content and are rich in minerals and well drained.

The very characterful Verdejo, Viura and Sauvignon Blanc are authorised white grapes. The red varieties planted are Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Garnacha. The reds are softer and more obviously fruity than either the wines of Toro or Ribera del Duero. The best whites come from Verdejo in both oaked and unoaked forms. A number of producers also make their best wines under the VT Castilla y León classification.

The BodegasBelondrade www.belondrade.com

Strikingly impressive and rich Rueda is produced at this small bodega established in 1994. Verdejo is the sole varietal used to produce both the whites here. The Rueda is barrel fermented with a rich

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texture, mineral and citrus complexity and a depth and persistence often lacking in the region. The Quinta Apolonia bottling is lighter and more obviously fruit driven in style but with an attractive vibrant citrus quality. The Quinta Clarisa is a ripe fruit driven rosado produced from Tempranillo. The Rueda will stand a little ageing although all three wines are immediately approachable. Recommended Whites: Rueda Belondrade y Lurton BFB (Verdejo) 89-91/ DVT Castilla y León Quinta Apolonia (Verdejo) 86-88/ B

Recommended Rosés: VT Castilla y León Quinta Clarisa (Tempranillo) 85-87/ B

Bodegas Menade (Sitios de Bodega) www.sitiosdebodega.com

This project is the home base for the Sitios de Bodega company of the Sanz family sibling’s Ricardo, Marco and Alejandra. They also have a separate project based here, Terna Bodegas where they produce some excellent old vine Rueda whites as well as a Toro and a VT Garnacha red. There is an additional joint venture partnership in Bierzo, Mencia de Dos, producing equally impressive results.

The Menade whites now come solely from organically cultivated vineyards and a small range of well-made, as well as extremely well-priced whites are produced. The wines are available as Palacio de Menade in the local market and then marketed under the Con Class label in the UK and the USA. These are very good clean and fresh examples of the region all aged on their fine lees for a time to add weight and depth, the Verdejo in particular really standing out.Recommended Whites: Rueda Verdejo (Verdejo) 87-89/ BRueda Sauvignon Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc) 86-88/ BRueda Menade Dulce (Sauvignon Blanc) 85-87/ B

Vinos Sanz (Finca La Colina) www.vinossanz.com

This is a very old bodega established in 1870 and now run by the 6th generation of the family. Recent years have seen investments in both the firm’s vineyards and particularly in their winery with increasing use of stainless steel and temperature control for vinification. There is close to 100 ha planted and mostly on the family’s La Colina estate. There are fresh and crisp white Rueda’s under the Montesol brand and a fruit driven red and a rosado VT Castilla y León are both released under

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the Campo Sanz label. Very decent Sanz label Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo are both made from a selection of the best fruit of each grape and traditionally vinified. The top wine is the impressive and concentrated floral, citrus and mineral scented Finca La Colina Cien x Cien Verdejo, from the oldest vines and full of depth and real intensity. A Finca La Colina Sauvignon Blanc is also made from the oldest vines of that grape.

Recommended Whites: Rueda Finca La Colina Verdejo Cien x Cien (Verdejo) 87-89/ BRueda Verdejo (Verdejo) 86-88/ BRueda Sauvignon Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc) 85-87/ B

Terna Bodegas www.sitiosdebodega.com

This project is a part of the Sitios de Bodega company of the Sanz family sibling’s Ricardo, Marco and Alejandra. They also make well priced, crisp Rueda whites under the Bodegas Menade brand. The Terna Bodegas wines are a clear step up in both quality and price. The V3 (Verdejo) and the Saxum (Sauvignon Blanc) are both barrel-fermented at a low but not cool temperature and aged on lees for up to 8 months in barrel, adding both depth and a rich, creamy complexity. Morfeo is a very fine Toro coming from vineyards which range from 80 to 120 years of age with many vines dating back to pre-phylloxera times. The wine is both barrel fermented as well as aged in new French oak. A Garnacha red, E Terna Selección which takes the VT Castilla y León classification is also made. In addition Sitios have a joint venture project in Bierzo, Mencia de Dos.Recommended Reds: Toro Morfeo Cepas Viejas (Tinta Fino) 89-91/ D

Recommended Whites: Rueda V3 Viñas Viejas (Verdejo) 89-91/ DRueda Saxum (Sauvignon Blanc) 88-90/ C

Bodegas Vidal Soblechero www.clavidor.com

A fine small family bodega making an almost bewildering array of wines from their 42 ha of vineyards.

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There are a number of well sited parcels “pagos” and a considerable holding of old vines. Some plots of Verdejo are now over 70 years old. The family is able to exploit a range of soils and the vineyards themselves benefit from a higher altitude than most in the region. Good to very good red and white is produced under both the Rueda DO and VT Castilla y León classifications. Reds are ripe and juicy, fully Tinta Fina (Tempranillo). The Tinta Fina S gains an additional dimension from partial malolactic in small barrel and 12 months in new and used, mainly French oak. The white Rueda wines offer great varietal purity along with an underlying minerality. There is a real depth to the Cepas Viejas, which blends very old 60 to 70 year old Verdejo and Viura. A short pre-fermentation period of skin contact ensures good fruit to complement the wines structure, particularly the Cepas Viejas and Verdejo. The top reds and whites are the single vineyard, Pagos de Villavendimia bottlings. The red Finca Perdiz is a rich, well-structured Tinta Fina gaining a rounded texture from malolactic in new wood. The piercing, mineral Finca El Jardin is a Sauvignon bottled after six months on stirred lees. The elegant and characterful lightly citrus scented Finca Varrastrojuelos is a 100% Viura produced from very old vines, some over 90 years. A number of very impressive single vineyard Verdejos, Fincas Buenavista, Matea and El Alto are also produced and are barrel-fermented. The range is completed by three well priced modern wines, a Sauvignon and two rosados, including the Capricho 1031. Recommended Reds: VT Castilla y León Finca Perdiz (Tinta Fina) 88-90/ EVT Castilla y León Finca Las Sernas (Tinta Fina) 87-89/ DVT Castilla y León Tinta Fina S (Tinta Fina) 86-88/ CVT Castilla y León Tinta Fina C (Tinta Fina) 86-88/ CVT Castilla y León Tinta Fina Joven (Tinta Fina) 85-87/ BVT Castilla y León Tinta Fina (Tinta Fina) 84-86/ B

Recommended Whites: VT Castilla y León Finca El Alto (Verdejo) 89-91/ DVT Castilla y León Finca Buenavista (Verdejo) 89-91/ DVT Castilla y León Finca Matea (Verdejo) 88-90/ DVT Castilla y León Finca Varrastrojuelos (Viura) 87-89/ DVT Castilla y León Finca El Jardin (Sauvignon Blanc) 87-89/ DRueda Cepas Viejas (Verdejo, Viura) 86-88/ BRueda Verdejo (Verdejo) 86-88/ BRueda Sauvignon Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc) 85-87/ B

Recommended Rosés: Rueda Capricho 1031 (Tinta Fino) 85-87/ B

See alsoBodega El Albar Lurton (Toro DO) Emina (Ribera del Duero DO - additional recommended bodegas) Telmo Rodríguez (Rioja DOCa)

Toro DO

This region in the province of Zamora borders Rueda to its east and is surrounded to its west and south by the recently created Tierra del Vino de Zamora DO. Toro is firmly red wine territory producing sturdy, at times raw styles of full-bodied reds from a local variation of Tempranillo, Tinta de Toro. Some of the 8,000 ha of vineyard are very old, towards 150 years of age and this has a significant impact on quality.

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The soil is sandy with clay and traces of limestone, while the climate is decidedly continental with low rainfall and long sunny summers. The resulting wines are full-bodied and regularly 14% alcohol and more. Tinta de Toro is also early ripening and as a result soft fruity wines made with carbonic maceration are released as well as considerably more sturdy oak aged examples. A small amount of Garnacha is planted which goes into

younger red wine styles and rosés. The few whites made are either Verdejo or Malvasia.

The BodegasBodega El Albar Lurton www.francoislurton.com

François Lurton has been producing wine in Rueda for a number of years which is released under the Hermanos Lurton label. There is a good regular Rueda white and a richer barrel-fermented Cuesta de Oro. More recently he has expanded to include some very well made reds from Toro. The vineyards are planted at high altitude on well-drained sand and gravel soils and yields are naturally very low. He releases four wines under his own El Albar label, three reds and a rosado, as well as producing an extraordinarily dense and concentrated example in partnership with roving global consultant Michel Rolland, Campo Eliseo. This is made in a seriously full blown, high alcohol style. Rich and concentrated though certainly impressive. The Excelencia, now VT labelled, is quite different, lighter, less intense but the wine possesses an excellent balance and elegance so often lacking in Toro. There is also a lighter easier drinking red, Barricas which is more Crianza than Reserva in style as it receives just one year in oak and a further top label Cuesta Grande. Both Excelencia and Campo Eliseo will benefit from a further 2 or 3 years ageing after release. Toro and Rueda wines are vinified at a recently created winery facility at Villafranca del Duero in the eastern extremities of the Toro DO.Recommended Reds: Toro Campo Eliseo (Tinta de Toro) 89-91/ EVT Castilla y León El Albar Excelencia (Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano) 88-90/ D

Recommended Whites: Rueda Hermanos Lurton Cuesta de Oro (Verdejo) 87-89/ CRueda Hermanos Lurton (Verdejo) 86-88/ B

Maurodos www.bodegasanroman.com

As well as the excellent wines he has been involved in developing at Mauro under the VT Castilla y León classification, enologist Mariano Garcia established this benchmark Toro property in the mid 1990s. Two wines are now made, San Román is a dense, opulent and richly textured red, full of dark berry fruit and supple, polished tannins. The considerable structure and initially firm grip from both the tannins and oak will necessitate a little patience. Given 5 or 6 years’ ageing the wine should provide ample reward. A second label Prima, is great value and offers a typically full-bodied, dark-fruited style and is a touch more accessible.

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Recommended Reds: Toro San Román (Tinta de Toro) 90-93/ EToro Prima (Tinta de Toro, Garnacha) 88-90/ D

Pintia www.bodegaspintia.com

Bodegas Pintia was established during 1995 and 1996, by the Álvarez family, who also own Vega Sicilia and Alion in Ribera del Duero. The DO was in close proximity to their existing bodegas and Toro had much potential which had not then been fully established. The one red now produced, the rich, powerful and smoky Pintia has established itself as a benchmark in the DO. The wine comes from hand harvested vines, some upwards of 50 years old. Vinification is distinctly modern with a lengthy pre-fermentation maceration with a vatting again at controlled temperatures to emphasise both fruit and elegance in the wine as well as structure. Malolactic fermentation is in barrel and the wine aged for between 12 and 15 months. Recommended Reds: Toro Pintia (Tinta de Toro) 90-93/ E

See alsoAlonso del Yerro (Ribera del Duero DO) Terna Bodegas (Rueda DO) Telmo Rodríguez (Rioja DOCa)

VCs and Country Wines

The vast majority of country wine produced in North-West Spain comes under the VT Castilla y León umbrella. The zone is vast and covers the whole of the Castilla y León Community. Good wines are made outside the confines of the DO regulations and also from property’s found just outside the boundaries of well established regions. For the reds Tempranillo is the key variety but you can also find examples with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot and in the south

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of the zone some very good Garnacha. Verdejo, Viura and Albillo are among the white grapes cultivated. In the south, close to the boundaries with the Vinos de Madrid and Méntrida DOs in the province of Ávila some exceptional old vine Garnacha is being made from vineyards in the Sierra de Gredos. There is now a small organisation of producers “Garnacha de Gredos” which maintains quality

standards.

In addition to the VT labelled wines there also two VC regions. In the north of the area to the immediate south of the Tierra de León DO is the VC Valles de Benavente. The Prieto Picudo red variety appears to have potential, not surprising given the proximity to Tierra de León. The VC Sierra de Salamanca, in that province and south of the city of Salamanca looks to be a source of very good reds from both Tempranillo and Rufete with a number of very good examples now made.

The BodegasAbadia Retuerta (VT Castilla y León) www.abadia-retuerta.com

Impressive and sizeable project based just outside the boundaries of the Ribera del Duero DO in the village of Sardón del Duero, a short distance to the east of the city of Valladolid. There are now over 200 ha of vineyards and quality is uniformly impressive. Considerable investment has been put into the operation, which includes a state of the art, gravity-fed winery. Wines range from the soft, fruit-driven Rivola to the powerful and structured super premium Petit Verdot, PV. They offer good quality at all prices.The Bordeaux red varieties are planted as well as Tempranillo and Syrah. Rivola offers attractive early drinking, while the Abadía Retuerta Selección Especial red is fuller, more structured and with more oak. Limited amounts of four special top cuvées represent the pinnacle here: Pago Valdebellón from Cabernet Sauvignon, Pago Negrallada from Tempranillo, Pago La Garduña from Syrah and PV produced from Petit Verdot. These top reds are very ageworthy and the PV very pricey. Recommended Reds: VT Castilla y León Pago Valdebellón (Cabernet Sauvignon) 92-95/ F

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VT Castilla y León Pago Negrallada (Tempranillo) 92-95/ FVT Castilla y León Selección Especial (Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon) 88-90/ DVT Castilla y León Rivola (Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon) 87-89/ C

Cámbrico (VC Sierra de Salamanca) www.cambrico.com

Based in the heart of the Sierra de Francia Natural Park high above the city of Salamanca in the newly established VC Sierra de Salamanca, the vineyards here are at an altitude of 800 to 900 metres in a climate and environment that’s brilliant for producing intensely flavoured grapes and fine wines. The

vine has been cultivated in these hills since Roman times. The vineyards are planted in a mix of granite and slate soils on steeply escarped terraces with vines ranging from 40 to 100 years of age. Tempranillo and the indigenous Rufete are the main grapes cultivated and the farming is organic. The fruit is manually harvested and the

berries hand de-stemmed before fermentation in stainless steel and the winery processes carried out by gravity. The wines are aged in French oak with the malolactic taking place in barrel. Three wines are made. The entry level is the 575 Uvas de Cámbrico, rich and black fruited with a round, approachable texture. Both the Rufete and Tempranillo are more structured, the Rufete very elegant and mineral. Barrel ageing varies between 15 and 18 months. Recommended Reds: VC Sierra de Salamanca Cámbrico Tempranillo (Tempranillo) 90-93/ FVC Sierra de Salamanca Cámbrico Rufete (Rufete) 90-93/ EVC Sierra de Salamanca 575 Uvas de Cámbrico (Rufete, Tempranillo) 88-90/ D

Maldivinas (VT Castilla y León) www.maldivinas.es

A small top quality operation based at Cebreros and producing first class Garnacha reds. It is recently established and the 4 ha of vines are farmed along organic principles. The vineyards are in an area called La Movida which is just outside Cebreros in the direction of Ávila. The combination of vines over 60 years old, steeply aspected plots and slate soils provides for grapes with very impressive flavour intensity. Winemaking is typically modern with minimal intervention. There is a pre-fermentation cold soak followed by vatting for up to a month and then ageing in largely used French oak for a year or just over. A second slightly pricier second wine has also now been released from the 2010 vintage. La Movida Laderas.

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Recommended Reds: VT Castilla y León La Movida (Garnacha) 89-91/ D

Bodegas Mauro (VT Castilla y León) www.bodegasmauro.com

Mauro is an impressive small to medium sized bodega where slightly more than 25,000 cases is made from 70 ha. There is a sister winery in Toro, Maurodos. The vineyards are planted mainly to Tempranillo but also to Syrah and soils are well drained and stony. Three reds are produced: a supple, opulent, forward style simply labelled Mauro; a Vendimia Seleccionada, which is richer and firmer; and a single-vineyard cuvée, Terreus, which is produced in limited volumes and only when the vintage conditions are particularly fine. It comes from very old vines and requires five years cellaring. Recommended Reds: VT Castilla y León Terreus (Tempranillo) 92-95/ EVT Castilla y León Mauro Vendimia Seleccionada (Tempranillo) 90-93/ EVT Castilla y León Mauro (Tempranillo, Syrah) 88-90/ D

See alsoBodega El Albar Lurton (Toro DO) Jiménez-Landi (Méntrida DO)Telmo Rodríguez (Rioja DOCa)Bodegas Vidal Soblechero (Rueda DO)

Galicia

Although some very decent red wines are made, Galicia is essentially white wine territory. The climate throughout the community is cool and there is a significant maritime influence. Good whites and a handful of often very decent reds are made in Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra,

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Valdeorras and Monterrei just on the Spanish/Portuguese border. There are a number of small country wine regions in Galicia, VTs Valle del Miño-Ourense, Barbanza e Iria and Betanzos with similar varieties as other Galician DO regions.

Valdeorras DO

Some of Spain’s most exciting and beguiling white wines are produced in this small Galician DO. Although less known some pretty decent reds emerge as well. Based in the province of Ourense, the DO is centred around the banks of the River Sil. The vineyards of Bierzo in Castilla y León border Valdeorras to the east and the precipitous terraced slopes of Ribeira Sacra are to the west.

The landscape of the area is either flat or with rolling hills. The vineyards are mostly planted at an altitude of 240 to 320 metres with the better sites on the highest slopes, soils closer to the river are alluvial and quite fertile. The best sites are those planted in soils with a significant proportion of slate, granite or pebbles.

A fairly wide range of both white and red grapes are permitted although the Godello is the most important for white wines. Other white varieties include Loureira, Treixadura, Doña Blanca, Albariño, Torrontés, Lado and Palomino. Not surprisingly given the proximity of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra Mencia is important for reds. Other red grapes that may be included include Tempranillo, Brancellao, Merenzao, Sousón, Caíño Tinto, Espadeiro and Ferrón.

The wine styles range from fresh and fruity whites to more complex lees and barrel aged examples. The best always have a pure minerality. Reds are attractive and fruit driven with a few wines showing real depth. Acidity rather than tannin is the key to the their structure.

The BodegasBodegas Avanthia

This small Valdeorras property was established in 2006 and is owned by a partnership of the Gil family of Jumilla, US importer and Málaga producer Jorge Ordoñez and nearby Bodegas Godeval. A

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very fine and quite pricey red Avanthia as well as a classic Valdeorras white are made. In addition the winery is also now making a more approachable second red, Avanthia Mosteiro as well as a rosado. There are 10 ha planted and most of this is Godello with just a small holding of very old Mencia. The vineyards are found at altitude, around 550 metres above sea level and planted on steep slopes. The terroir consists of Ordovician slate soils which offer excellent drainage and being dark retain heat and reflect back at night, which in turn aids ripening. Harvesting is all done by hand and there is a careful selection prior to vinification. The white is barrel-fermented and aged for 7 months but in larger 500 to 600 litre barrels to retain balance. It is full of elegant green fruits with a nutty, lightly toasted character and a subtle mineral undercurrent. The Avanthia Mencia is vinified traditionally and aged in French oak for 14 months. This is a serious and complex example of the variety full of dark fruits, spices and minerals with silky tannins and well judged oak. It is an undoubted rival to some of the better wines from Bierzo. Recommended Reds: Valdeorras Mencia (Mencia) 89-91/ E

Recommended Whites: Valdeorras Godello (Godello) 88-90/ D

Bodegas Godeval www.godeval.com

Originally founded in 1987 this is one of the best producers in an increasingly exciting region for top class whites. They are also part owners in the exceptional Avanthia project. With 17 ha planted exclusively to Godello, on sharply sloping hillside vineyards with finely drained slate soils, the conditions are all in place for the production of intensely flavoured grapes. The regular white is fermented relatively cool and offers a fine mineral and citrus, green fruited intensity. The Cepas Vellas comes from the oldest vines on the property and is aged on lees for six months which adds a rich and rounder texture to the wines intense, mineral qualities. Recommended Whites: Valdeorras Viña Godeval Cepas Vellas (Godello) 88-90/ DValdeorras Viña Godeval (Godello) 87-89/ C

Santa Marta www.vinaredo.com

Some good to very good reds and whites are made at this family owned bodega with vineyards

planted at around 600 metres. Although the project was only founded in 1998 some of the Mencia and Godello vineyard plots are much older, approaching 50 years, planted in reflective slate soils. The

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bodega has 12 ha of owned vineyards and also works with other growers in cultivating a further 18 ha. There are two entry level wines, both labelled, Valsadal, a white from Palomino and Godello and a red from Mencia and Garnacha. Barrel aged wines, labelled Barrica are also made from both Mencia and Godello. The fresh, mineral and subtly peachy Viñaredo Godello is given a short period of cold maceration before a cool fermentation. The Viñaredo Mencia shows lovely dark cherry fruit and a slight hint of minerality. Both the Mencia and rare Sousón reds get a cold soak before vinification and the dark cherry fruited Sousón is aged in small oak for eight months.Recommended Reds: Valdeorras Viñaredo Barrica (Mencia) 87-89/ CValdeorras Viñaredo Mencia (Mencia) 87-89/ C

Recommended Whites: Valdeorras Viñaredo Godello (Godello) 87-89/ C

See alsoTelmo Rodríguez (Rioja)

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Central Spain

Dominated by the vast tracts of La Mancha, the Castilla La Mancha vineyards are to the south of the capital city. Covering a geographically much smaller area and including its own DO is the autonomous community of Madrid and the city itself.

The much larger Castilla La Mancha, while geographically dominated by the La Mancha DO includes a number of other appellations where some very good wines are produced in isolated hillside sites and at significant altitude, often from old bush vines.

Madrid

The community of Madrid has no VT classification and is solely represented by the wines produced under the Vinos de Madrid full DO banner.

Vinos de Madrid DO

Madrid is one of the very rare capital cities with its own wine appellation and can make a very interesting diversion from the normal sight seeing schedule. The region is spread over quite a wide area to the south-east, south and south-west of the city where it borders the small Méntrida DO. The climate though is very much continental with hot summers but altitude is important in moderating conditions. There are three distinct subzones. To the south-east is Arganda where the bulk of the bodegas are located and much new planting has been undertaken here in recent years with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah combining with Tempranillo in a number of fine reds. The clay and limestone over granite subsoil would appear to offer much potential. To the south at Navalcarnero there are fewer bodegas and the soils are a touch more challenging for high quality wines with a base of sand and clay. In the south-west the San Martín subzone has tremendous potential from old bush vine Garnacha and the white Albillo.

The BodegasBodega Marañones www.bodegamaranones.com

Youthful owner Fernando Garcia is based in the western San Martín subregion. He is a source of

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tremendous Garnacha reds and Albillo based whites from old bush trained vines. Fernando practices organic farming and produces five wines from vineyards ranging from 30 to over 80 years of age. There are various parcels, totalling around 15 ha, with the vines planted in a mix of sandy loams, sand and granite at an altitude of between 650 to 850 metres. A high diurnal swing in summer temperature and vines protected from northern winds provides fruit with excellent potential balance

and fresh acidity as well as rich concentration. The result is red wines of intense fruit and classic minerality along with a white, Picarana, which gains weight and a richer texture from barrel-fermentation with lees

stirring and has a rich, citrus infused character. It is now joined by a second white, Piesdescalzos, also coming from Albillo. The reds get a brief cold soak before fermentation in small open barrels with pigeage. Cellaring is then in larger wooden barrels to emphasise the quality of the fruit. The wines all offer excellent quality for the price. Recommended Reds: Vinos de Madrid Peña Caballera (Garnacha) 90-93/ DVinos de Madrid Labros (Garnacha) 90-93/ DVinos de Madrid Treinta Mil Maravedíes (Garnacha, Syrah) 88-90/ C

Recommended Whites: Vinos de Madrid Picarana (Albillo) 89-91/ C

Qubél www.qubel.com

The full name of this bodega is Bodega y Viñedos Gosálbez Orti, however you are more likely to find it under its main brand name. Although only founded in 2000 the latest releases continue to move from strength to strength. The vineyards are all farmed organically and are located to the south-east of Madrid at an altitude ranging from 750 to 900 metres. This coupled with mountains to the north provides an excellent growing environment with warm sunny summers and cool nights. Very limited drip irrigation is also employed, simply to avoid excessive vine stress. The vibrant, spicy, herb scented Excepción comes from 40 year old Garnacha vines and is aged in a mix of American and French oak. Both the Naturé and the Paciencia are based largely on Tempranillo and are firmer, more structured wines, although they are nevertheless supple, ripe and will drink well at three or four years. The Paciencia will benefit from cellaring a year or two longer. Two additional wines are now released under the Mayrit label, a white from Albillo and a red blend. A further Qubél red, Revelación is also made.

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Recommended Reds: Vinos de Madrid Qubel Paciencia (Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon) 89-91/ DVinos de Madrid Qubel Naturé (Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon) -88-90/ DVinos de Madrid Qubel Excepción (Garnacha) 88-90/ C

See alsoPagos de Familia (DOP Dominio de Valdepusa)

Castilla La Mancha

A number of appellations including the vast La Mancha DO are located in this autonomous community as well as a number of Single Estate Pagos and country wine regions. Immediately to the east and bordering Vinos de Madrid is Mondéjar. Further south and sharing some of the same territory as La Mancha is the Uclés DO, where the option exists for some bodegas to take either appellation. Further to the south-west is Manchuela which nearly envelops the small DO of Ribera del Júcar. Immediately to the south is Almansa and the western stretches of Jumilla, which will be fully profiled in the South-East Spain section in Murcia. Valdepeñas is found amidst the southern

stretches of La Mancha and as yet like its larger neighbour most of the wines seem to be at best relatively simple and straightforward. Of great interest here though are eight of the countries single property DOPs (Vinos de Pago) spread across the region. There are a number of country wine classifications including VT Galvez near Toledo and VT Pozohondo and Sierra de Alcaraz to the immediate south-west of Albacete. Most wines though go under the VT Castilla umbrella, which in many cases is deliberately chosen rather than using the La Mancha DO classification for perceived quality reasons among consumers.

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Méntrida DO

Méntrida DO is in the province of Toledo and its northern vineyards border San Martín in the Vinos de Madrid appellation. It is no surprise that with Garnacha being successful in Madrid, the same is the case here. Indeed over 80% of the vineyard area is planted to Garnacha, which is bush vine trained. A combination of relatively low plantation density, loose soils, combining sandy clay of a granite origin, with good water retention and sites cultivated at up to 1,000 metres above sea level can provide fruit with great character and intensity. The continental climate provides typically hot summers so sites tempered by altitude are likely to show the best results.

A number of other varieties have also proved successful here particularly Syrah and to a lesser extent Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cencibel. Only a small proportion of the regions vineyards are planted to white varieties and these are Albillo and Macabeo as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The BodegasJiménez-Landi www.jimenezlandi.com

This is the stand out producer in this small region to the south-west of Madrid where Daniel Jiménez-Landi and his family are producing quite stunning wines from old-vine, organically and biodynamically farmed Garnacha. Syrah is also planted but it is the character of the top four old-vine reds produced from Garnacha that offer something truly special here. The most approachable of the wines, the dark-berried, spicy and mineral Sotorrondero is a blend of mainly Syrah with a little

Garnacha from old vines. The other wines are all Garnacha and a real old-vine complexity shines through in all with the Pielago coming from a number of sites. More complex and intensely mineral in style are the three top reds from specific vineyards and terroirs. Dark and spicy as well as very mineral, the Ataulfos comes from a biodynamically farmed east facing 60 year old plot planted in siliceous soils. El Fino del Mondo meaning the End of the World is from a 1,000 metre vineyard of 70

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year old vines. It is very nervy and tightly structured and will be splendid given five years or so. More approachable and supple is the Canto del Diablo (Stones of the Devil), the site is a touch warmer and east facing and the fruit is not de-stemmed prior to fermentation as a result. Daniel also makes a brilliant fourth Garnacha red, El Reventon, in association with roving Bierzo based winemaker Raúl Pérez. This latter wine is made from over 70 year old vines grown in slatey, limestone soils around the key village of Cebreros. The wine offers a beguiling mineral, dark-fruited rich and sumptuous complexity. Unquestionably one of Central Spain’s stand out reds. Daniel is also involved with Fernando Garcia at Bodegas Marañones and Marc Isart from Bernabeleva, both based in Vinos de Madrid in creating some of Spain’s finest pure Garnacha reds at Comando G. Recommended Reds: VT Castilla y León El Reventon (Garnacha) 92-95/ EMentrida Cantos del Diable (Garnacha) 92-95/ EMentrida El Fino del Mundo (Garnacha) 92-95/ EMentrida Ataulfos (Garnacha) 92-95/ EMentrida Piélago (Garnacha) 90-93/ DMentrida Sotorrondero (Garnacha, Syrah) 89-91/ D

Manchuela DO

A DO with real potential, as some very good wines are now being made. It is located in the far east of Castilla La Mancha in the provinces of Cuenca and Albacete bordering the Communidad Valenciana at its furthest east with Almansa to its immediate south.

Although the climate is continental with reasonably hot summers and cold winters this is moderated by nightime winds, which also bring much needed moisture. This combined with a vineyard altitude mainly ranging from 600 to 700 metres and sparse clay and limestone soils provides a propitious growing environment for good quality wines.

Bobal is the leading red grape, showing real promise, with some impressively dense, structured and characterful wines now being made. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cencibel, Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell,

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Moravia Agria, Moravia Dulce, Touriga Nacional and Syrah are also grown. The white varieties consist of Albillo, Chardonnay, Macabeo, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo.

The BodegasBodegas Ponce

Ponce is a relative newcomer in Manchuela but really showing the potential to be achieved from old vine Bobal planted in clay and calcareous limestone soils. Indeed most of the wines are vinified solely from the variety and the total output is barely more than 3,000 cases a year. Quality though is very good throughout the small range and the wines are good value and very characterful. There are a total of around 22 ha under cultivation and many of the vines are now well over 60 years of age, adding to the complexity of the wines, particularly the three single vineyard “Finca” bottlings. The vineyards, which are farmed as naturally as possible with no chemicals, are at an altitude of close to 900 metres and this helps promote acidity and balance in the resulting wines. Because of the arid summer climate and low rainfall the vineyard is planted at a low density of just over 1,000 vines to the hectare. All the wines are aged in French oak, the Clos Lojén for 8 months the other wines for just under a year. Buena Pinta differs from the other reds being a blend of Garnacha and Moravia Agria, which lends acidity. A white, Refo from Albillo is rich, concentrated and minerally.Recommended Reds: Manchuela La Casilla Finca Moján Blanco (Bobal) 90-93/ EManchuela La Casilla Finca La Estrecha (Bobal) 89-91/ DManchuela La Casilla Finca Luján (Bobal) 89-91/ DManchuela PF (Bobal) 88-90/ DManchuela Pino (Bobal) 87-89/ CManchuela Buena Pinta (Garnacha, Moravia Agria) 87-89/ CManchuela La Casilla (Bobal) 87-89/ CManchuela Clos Lojen (Bobal) 87-89/ C

Recommended Whites: Manchuela Refo (Albillo) 88-90/ D

Almansa DO

This relatively small appellation with just a dozen wineries is notable for its planting of the red fleshed teinturier variety Garnacha Tintorera. Historically this grape was regarded as a little more than blending material to add colour and substance. It has been proven recently to be singly or a part of some particularly good and characterful reds. The Monastrell is also important and Cencibel and Syrah are also cultivated. Whites are quite rare and for these Airén, Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc are grown.There is a combination of characteristics that contribute to the quality of the wines. An altitude ranging from 700 to 1,000 metres promotes acidity and structure, a control of vine density provides balance and guards against over cropping and well drained lime bearing soils provides a good growing environment.

The BodegasBodegas Almanseñas www.ventalavega.com

Definitely among the benchmark bodegas in Almansa with wines produced from mainly Garnacha Tintorera and Monastrell on their home Venta La Vega estate. Whites are also produced here as well. La Huella is a fresh and approachable blend of Verdejo, Sauvignon and unusually Monastrell

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vinified as a white. More serious is the Adaras Blanco a special barrel fermented selection of Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc. The altitude of the vineyards gives the wine is vital acidity and structure. The Tintorera strain of the Garnacha, when blended with Monastrell appears to have real potential. Four reds are produced. Calizo is a young wine which has a relatively short vatting and should be enjoyed for its young, vibrant fruit. La Huella de Adaras is a blend of the estates two main varieties as well as a little Syrah. It is a soft and juicy fruited wine which gets a little depth and structure from ageing in

stainless steel vats on lees for 12 months. La Vega de Adaras is from Garnacha Tintorella and Monastrell. It is a sturdier and firmer red, gaining character from a mix of ageing in both oak and cement vats. The top wine Adaras is solely

Garnacha Tintorera and sourced from the best old vine plots. It offers impressive grip and a supple ripe structure with dark and spicy berry fruit as well as impressive intensity. Ageing is for around 14 months in French oak and the wine will drink well at three or four years of age.Recommended Reds: Almansa Adaras (Garnacha Tintorera) 88-90/ CAlmansa La Vega de Adaras (Garnacha Tintorera, Monastrell) 87-89/ CAlmansa La Huella de Adaras (Garnacha, Monastrell, Syrah) 86-88/ BAlmansa Calizo de Adaras (Garnacha Tintorera, Monastrell, Petit Verdot, Syrah) 85-87/ A

Recommended Whites: Almansa Adaras (Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo) 87-89/ CAlmansa La Huella de Adaras (Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Monastrell) 85-87/ B

Single Pago DOPs and Country Wines

There are currently just 15 single estate DOPs in Spain and eight of them are found in Castilla La Mancha. These consist of Dominio de Valdepusa to the south of Méntrida, Campo de la Guardia just to south of Madrid, Pago de Calzadilla to the east of Madrid, Dehesa del Carrizal in the south-west of the region, Pago Florentino and Casa del Blanco to the north and east respectively of the city of Ciudad Real, as well as Guijoso and Finca Élez in the south-east in the province of Albacete. The vast majority of VT wines produced in Central Spain take the VT Castilla classification. It covers a vast geographical area, encompassing the whole of Castilla La Mancha. It has become a favoured alternative label for those producers with well sited hillside vineyards on finely drained soils who do not wish to consider the La Mancha DO for their wines. A wide array of red and white grapes are cultivated. As well as the usual suspects, particularly Tempranillo, other interesting wines are being made from the likes of Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Viognier. The area is too large to make any

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overall assessment about soils, topography and so on but there is a generally continental climate and with low summer rainfall, irrigation is permissible although the best minimise this. The most propitious sites are on well drained slopes and planted in low fertility soils.

There are also three further much smaller VT regions. Gálvez, just to the south of Mentrida, as well as Sierra de Alcaraz and Pozohondo which are in the south-east of Castilla La Mancha. As yet no wines of real note have emerged taking these classifications.

The BodegasBodegas Ercavio - Mas Que Vinos (VT Castilla) www.bodegasercavio.com

Ercavio is a partnership of three winemaking friends, Margarita Madrigal, Gonzalo Rodríguez and Alexandra Schmedes who have been working together since 1998. Wishing to make their own wines as well as working with other producers they settled on an area a short distance to the east of Toledo, the Mesa de Ocaña. A combination of altitude (750 metres), a continental climate with dry summers and cool nights as well as calcareous-clay soils provides an ideal viticultural environment for perfectly matured grapes. Fruit-driven wines are produced under their Ercavio label as well as denser, more seriously structured and age worthy reds. The Blanco is cool fermented and aged on lees for around 10 weeks. A second white, La Malvar de Ercavio is barrel fermented. A fruit driven style is achieved with the Tempranillo Joven which is bottled unwooded. The Tempranillo Roble is more traditionally vinified and gets five months ageing in a mix of French and American oak, while the Selección Limitada is a selection aged for longer, up to a year in barrel and offers more depth and a tighter, more elegant style. Of the top reds, La Meseta is 50/50 Syrah and Tempranillo, whereas the La Plazuela is mainly very old Tempranillo with some bush vine Garnacha adding a beguiling, complex old-vine herb spice character. All the barrel aged reds are bottled unfiltered. Both La Meseta and La Plazuela will continue to add greater complexity for at least six or seven years. A further premium red, El Señorito de Ercavio sourced from a single vineyard, a sparkling white Espumoso, and a dulce red from Tempranillo are also made. Recommended Reds: VT Castilla La Plazuela (Tempranillo, Syrah) 89-91/ DVT Castilla La Meseta (Tempranillo, Garnacha) 88-90/ DVT Castilla Ercavio Limited Release (Tempranillo, Merlot) 87-89/ CVT Castilla Ercavio Tempranillo Roble (Tempranillo) 86-88/ BVT Castilla Ercavio Tempranillo Joven (Tempranillo) 85-87/ A

Recommended Whites: VT Castilla Ercavio (Airén, Sauvignon Blanc) 84-86/ A

Pagos de Familia (DOP Pago Dominio de Valdepusa) www.pagosdefamilia.com

Pagos de Familia consists of two estates. Dominio de Valdepusa was among the pioneer properties in La Mancha producing fine, modern reds. The Marques de Griñon also has a second property, El Rincón where a red is made under the Vinos de Madrid appellation. Dominio de Valdepusa is planted in the Montes de Toledo on limestone subsoils and at a high vine density. El Rincón, to the south-west of the capital was established only a decade ago and planted on granite and sand over clay to both Syrah and Garnacha. Very well crafted and stylish wines are made. The key is a commitment to viticulture with sophisticated modern trellising as well as irrigation only when needed. Good to very good reds are produced: Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah as well as blends of all three, Eméritus and Summa Varietalis. The Syrah is rich and smoky and the Petit Verdot scented yet firm – it needs more time than the others, 5 or 6 years. The Cabernet, surprisingly, can show a leafy note. The Émeritus and Summa Varietalis are both rich, dark and concentrated, with a big dollop of Syrah

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adding a black pepper spiced complexity. Recommended Reds: Dominio de Valdepusa Émeritus (Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah) 89-91/ FDominio de Valdepusa Summer Varietalis (Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah) 88-90/ EVinos de Madrid El Rincón (Syrah, Garnacha) 88-90/ DDominio de Valdepusa Syrah (Syrah) 88-90/ DDominio de Valdepusa Petit Verdot (Petit Verdot) 88-90/ DDominio de Valdepusa Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabernet Sauvignon) 87-89/ D

Mano a Mano (VT Castilla) www.bodegamanoamano.com

This new bodega is now a part of the Avanteselecta group of small high quality boutique property’s. Although based in La Mancha the bodega chooses to take the VT Castilla classification for their reds rather than the DO. The well priced Mano a Mano red is an excellent, fleshy and vibrant, forward red offering great value. The wine is produced from low yields of Cencibel and the vineyards planted in sandy soils over a bedrock of clay, limestone and pebbles. This local strain of Tempranillo is well suited to the semi-drought conditions found in La Mancha and the resulting wines are rich and robust but very much in a joven style. The wine is aged for up to six months in small oak and needs a few months after release to achieve a rounded harmony of fruit and wood. The Venta La Ossa red comes from just 15 ha and is dominated by old-vine, dry-farmed fruit. The wine is aged for around 12 months in small oak. Full of dark, spicy berry character and hints of chocolate there is quite a bit of youthful new wood flavour which will take a year or two to integrate. An additional red, Venta La Ossa Syrah is also made which sees a similar period in small oak, both French and American as well as a young wine style, Manon Roble.Recommended Reds: VT Castilla Venta La Ossa (Tempranillo) 90-93/ E

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VT Castilla Mano a Mano (Tempranillo) 88-90/ C

Manuel Manzaneque (DOP Pago Finca Élez) www.manuelmanzaneque.com

The Manuel Manzaneque bodega is located in the far south eastern stretches of Castilla La Mancha in the mountains of Sierra de Alcaraz. The continental climate and vineyard altitude of close to 1,100 metres above sea level help to provide the environment for growing high quality wine grapes. The marked day and night temperature

swings during the hot summer months ensures freshness and balance in the wines. The 34 ha are planted to a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Syrah.Recommended Reds: Finca Élez Nuestra Selección (Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot) 88-90/ EFinca Élez Nuestra Syrah (Syrah) 87-89/ DFinca Élez Crianza (Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot) 86-88/ C

Additional recommended bodegas and winesFinca Constancia (VT Castilla) www.gonzalezbyass.es Recommended Reds: VT Castilla Altos de la Finca (Petit Verdot, Syrah) 88-90/ DVT Castilla Parcela 23 (Tempranillo) 87-89/ CVT Castilla Finca Constancia (Multi variety blend) 86-88/ B

Uribes Madero (DOP Pago de Calzadilla) www.pagocalzadilla.com Recommended Reds: Pago Calzadilla Syrah Especial (Syrah) 88-90/ DPago Calzadilla Opta (Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah) 86-88/ C

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South-East Spain

This section features the wine regions of the Valencia and Murcia autonomous communities. Although geographically the area isn’t the size of the central stretches of Spain there is quite extensive winegrowing from just to the north of the city of Valencia south into Murcia and with vineyards inland of that city.

Communidad Valenciana

The Valencia community stretches some considerable distance north of the city but the main area of the DO of Valencia is found just to its north and north-west. There are also more vineyards to the south, which border the Alicante DO. Just to the west of Valencia is the DO of Utiel-Requena which as well as making similarly styled reds and whites is also one of the areas classified under the Cava DO. It is also home to two new Pagos, Chozas Carrascal and Los Balagueses. Two VT regional areas are located in the community. The tiny but excellent El Terrerazu west of Valencia and the more spread out zone of Castelló which stretches around the city of Castellón right up to the border with Cataluña. The area of El Terrerazu is also now home to another recent single estate appellation, Pago El Terrerazu.

Valencia DO

An appellation which stetches directly inland from the city of Valencia and with a separate subzone, Clariano which is some way to the south and which borders Almansa at its western

extremity and Alicante on its southern boundary. The northern area consists of three subzones, Valentino to the north west, Alto Turia to the west of Valentino with vineyards at significant altitude, up to 1,100 metres and to the west of the city of Valencia, the Moscatel subzone with lower altitudes and more coastal vineyards. The soils tend to be more propitious for top quality grapes at higher altitude being generally lime bearing.

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A fairly wide range of grapes is planted white and red and both local and international. There are good barrel fermented Chardonnays, blends including Verdejo and Moscatel and some impressive examples of the local Verdil. Among international red varieties the Cabernets both contribute to good examples and Syrah can be a significant component in blends, as can Cencibel. Monastrell is also very important producing some excellent varietal wines and as a component in blends. Bobal, Mandó, Graciano and Garnacha Tintorera are also important.

The BodegasRafael Cambra www.rafaelcambra.es

Wine quality generally in the DOs of the south-east of Spain is moving from strength to strength and none more so than at this excellent bodega only founded in 2001. Rafa Cambra is able to draw on 25 ha for his own four reds but is also responsible for the viticulture and vinification of his family’s very well made fruit driven wines at Bodega El Angosto. He has just added a soft easy drinking style, Bon Homme which is marketed with three different label designs. It is a 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell. His Dos bottling is a striking Saint-Emilion lookalike blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in almost equal proportions and just a small amount of Monastrell. The wine unquestionably has a touch of the aroma of Cheval Blanc about it. There is though a vibrant ripe black fruit character that you wouldn’t find in Bordeaux. Ageing is for 10 months in oak so as not to overwhelm the fruit. Uno is a 100% Monastrell of great depth, complexity and intensity. 14 months in small oak is easily absorbed, with a marked meaty, savoury quality underpinning the dark, spicy fruit in much the same way as the very best Bandols. The top wine is the newly added, rich and sumptuous Minimum, a blend of Monastrell from the highest and lowest yielding part of the vineyard and around a third of Cabernet Franc. Recommended Reds: Valencia Minimum (Monastrell, Cabernet Franc) 90-93/ DValencia Uno (Monastrell) 90-93/ DValencia Dos (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc) 88-90/ CValencia Bon Homme (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon) 87-89/ B

Heretat de Taverners www.heretatdetaverners.com

Good and well-priced wines are crafted at this small bodega, originally a farmhouse dating back

to the 1660s. The vineyard now totals 25 ha and a range of varieties planted including Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for whites as well as reds. Along with the reds rated here one white Reixiut is

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produced from the holding of white grapes. The El Vern Crianza is a blend of Tempranillo, Monastrell, Cabernet and Merlot, it is the most traditional of the reds. Well defined fruit though is apparent with a wine fermented at relatively cool temperatures. Ageing is for 10 months in American and French oak and a further 12 months in bottle prior to release. Mallaura is a vibrant, opulent style seeing 14 months in barrel. Dominated by Monastrell, the blend also has small proportions of Garnacha Tintorera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. Pride of place though goes to the excellent Graciano. It is a more densely structured and concentrated red than the other bottlings. Full of dark cherry and notes of plum the wine is nicely underpinned with subtle creamy French oak and will benefit further from two or three years in bottle.Recommended Reds: Valencia Graciano Reserva (Graciano) 88-90/ CValencia Mallaura Reserva (Monastrell, Garnacha Tintorera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo) 87-89/ CValencia El Vern Crianza (Tempranillo, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) 86-88/ B

See alsoDominio de Aranleón (Utiel-Requena DO) Vegalfaro (DOP Pago de Los Balagueses - additional recommended bodegas)

Utiel-Requena DO

Good quality DO in the north-west of the Valencia Community. Red, white and rosado are all produced and the region is one of those outside Cataluña for Cava production. The vineyard area is quite substantial but nevertheless some excellent wines, particularly red are being made here.

Utiel-Requena borders Manchuela and some of the vineyards are at significant altitude with a climate possessing both continental as well as maritime influences. The soils are also propitious for quality wine making, with a marked limestone component in many and excellent drainage.

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A wide range of both red and white grapes is planted. Among the reds Bobal (which accounts for three-quarters of all vines planted), Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are all authorised. The white varieties include Macabeo, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc but less well known are the local Merseguera and Tardana.

The BodegasDominio de Aranleón www.aranleon.com

Although this bodega has been in existence since 1927 it is in recent vintages that real strides have been made in both wine quality and the inventiveness in which they produce their wines. As well as Utiel-Requena, wines come from Valencia, far afield in Rías Baixas and a Cava is also made. With the Rías Baixas Riente, the winery felt this would be far more likely to give them the kind of characterful white they wished for than from locally grown white fruit. The wine is a typically mineral and citrus scented example of the DO with good depth and intensity. The Solo offers a really characterful dark and spicy fruit intensity. The best wine, the El Arbol de Aranleón is aged in French oak and sets a real benchmark for the DO. Recommended Reds: Utiel-Requena El Arbol de Aranleón (Bobal, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah) 89-91/ DUtiel-Requena Solo (Bobal, Tempranillo, Syrah) 88-90/ CValencia Bles Crianza (Monastrell) 87-89/ C

Recommended Whites: Rías Baixas Riente (Albariño) 87-89/ C

Additional recommended bodegas and winesPago de Tharsys www.pagodetharsys.com Recommended Reds: Utiel-Requena Dominio de Requena (Bobal, Tempranillo) 85-87/ A

Recommended Whites: Cava Brut Nature (Macabeo, Chardonnay) 85-87/ B

Recommended Rosés: Cava Brut Reserva Rosado (Garnacha) 85-87/ B

See alsoVegalfaro (DOP Pago de Los Balagueses - additional recommended bodegas)

Single Pago DOPs and Country Wines

There are just two VT regions in Valencia and now three Single Pago properties. The Pago El Terrerazu is owned by Bodega Mustiguillo and the property was accorded Single Estate status in late 2010. The VT El Terrerazu covers much of the same territory and Mustiguillo is as yet the only bodega. The wines though are of exemplary quality. Pago Los Balagueses is a part of the Vegalfaro bodega who are based in Utiel-Requena. Chozas Carrascal, also based in Utiel-Requena have most recently been accorded DOP status. The second VT, Castelló is further north and stretching inland of the city of Castellón and right up close to the boundary with Cataluña. As yet the wines are not of the same order. An increasing number of fine wines are also being released as Vino de Mesa.

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The BodegasMustiguillo (DOP Pago El Terrerazo) www.bodegamustiguillo.com

A very impressive producer with some 80 ha of vineyards close to Valencia in the small VT El Terrerazo which has now been classified as a single Pago property as of 2011. Much of the vineyard is planted to very old, unirrigated Bobal, which provides potentially exceptional raw material. Tempranillo, which is by no means young at 35 plus years, and Cabernet Sauvignon is also planted. Three wines are produced. Mestijaze is forward and full of dark, brambly fruit. Finca Terrerazo is supple and reasonably approachable, the more forward of the two Pago labels; it is aged for 18 months in French oak. The pricier Quincha Corral is more structured and firm. Winemaking is distinctly modern, with fermentation completed in barrel followed by the malolactic. These are rich, concentrated wines full of dark fruit and cedar. They are likely to improve in bottle for 5 years or more. Recommended Reds: Pago El Terrerazu Quincha Corral (Bobal) 90-93/ EPago El Terrerazu Finca Terrerazo (Bobal) 89-91/ EVT El Terrerazu Mestizaje (Bobal, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah) 87-89/ C

Additional recommended bodegas and winesVegalfaro (DOP Pago los Balagueses) www.vegalfaro.com Recommended Reds: Valencia Pasamonte (Garnacha Tintorera) 87-89/ DPago Los Balagueses Syrah (Syrah) 87-89/ DUtiel-Requena Crianza (Tempranillo, Merlot, Syrah) 86-88/ CUtiel-Requena Barrica (Tempranillo, Merlot, Bobal) 85-87/ B

Recommended Whites: VT Castilla Talva (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc) 85-87/ C

Recommended Rosés: VT Castilla Petit Verdot Rosado (Petit Verdot) 84-86/ B

Murcia

The Murcia Autonomous Community comprises three DOs and a further three VT regions, a catch all appellation, VT Murcia and two small geographical regions, Abanilla and Campo de Cartagena. Of the DOs Yecla is furthest north, Jumilla is spread across Murcia and Castilla

La Mancha. Most of Bullas is right in central Murcia.

Yecla DO

This is the northernmost of the Murcia DO regions, established some time ago in 1975, and with a relatively moderate area of just over 6,000 ha under vine with a handful of wineries. Almansa is to the north, Alicante to the east while Jumilla almost envelops Yecla along its western and southern boundaries. Reds and rosados are very much the dominant wines. Whites can be soft and fruity and for early drinking with relatively low acidities.

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The vineyards are far enough inland to have a significant continental as well as maritime influence. The combination of this, well drained limestone soils with good water retention in the sub soil and an altitude ranging from 400 to 800 metres helps provide structure in the red wines. While most of these are forward and fruit driven or supple, soft and traditionally aged there are one or two serious and structured examples.

The BodegasBodegas Castaño www.bodegascastano.com

The dynamic Castaño family make an extensive range based mainly on old vine Monastrell. The basic reds, white and rosé are labelled Dominio Espinal. The two reds are the best bets among these clean, well-made, fruit-driven wines; the Dominio Espinal Seleccion has a little extra depth and a soft, round structure. Monastrell clearly stands out among the varietal wines and is given 25% carbonic maceration and is a vibrant, spicy red which sees no oak. The Hecula bottling by contrast gets 12 months in a mix of French and American oak, some new. It comes from un-irrigated old vines and has impressive dark berry varietal character. A partially barrel-fermented Macabeo/Chardonnay offers some light tropical fruit, while the Rosado is bright, spicy and strawberry fruited. The Pozuelo-labelled reds are more traditional in style with less upfront fruit. The Crianza is aged for 10 months in American oak, the Reserva for 20 months. The impressive Colección is aged for up to14 months in a mix of French and American wood. Dark berry fruit is nicely underpinned by characterful notes of black pepper. The Monastrell Dulce is a late-harvest fortified red with considerable residual sugar and a rich, slight raisiny character. The splendidly rich, concentrated and mineral scented Casa Cisca, is 100% old Monastrell from high-altitude vineyards planted on limestone soils. The Castaños also have a winery in Alicante at Bodegas Sierra Salinas, a project in Jumilla, Altos del Cuadrado, as well as another significant Yecla project Viña al Lado de La Casa in partnership with Quim Vila the owner of the Barcelona wine merchant Vila Vinoteca. They also make the red Solanera in partnership with US wine importer Eric Solomon. Recommended Reds: Yecla Casa Cisca (Tempranillo, Graciano) 89-91/ EYecla Dulce Monastrell (Monastrell) 88-90/ DYecla Coleccion (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon) 88-90/ CYecla Solanera (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha Tintorera) 87-89/ CYecla Hecula Monastrell (Monastrell) 86-88/ BYecla Pozuelo Reserva (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon) 85-87/ BYecla Dominio Espinal Selección (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah) 85-87/ AYecla Monastrell (Monastrell) 85-87/ AYecla Pozuelo Crianza (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon) 84-86/ A

Recommended Whites: Yecla Macabeo/Chardonnay (Macabeo, Chardonnay) 85-87/ A

Recommended Rosés: Yecla Rosado (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah) 84-86/ A

Jumilla DO

Of the three DO regions in Murcia this is the largest; it has over four times the vineyard area of Yecla and positively dwarfs Bullas. It is also a source of not only some of the very finest reds from the south-east but also some of the most expensive too. The Bordeaux red grapes and Syrah along with Tempranillo, Garnacha and Garnacha Tintorera are all encountered but it is Monastrell


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that dominates the vineyards here. Whites are much less important and while there are some international grapes planted the workhorse Airén dominates. The region is a significant distance inland and the vineyards at the kind of altitude, between 400 and 800 metres, to promote structure and sufficient acidity in particular in the red grape varieties. The limestone soils are also important, with good top soil drainage but just sufficient water retention to aid and improve grape ripening and consequent fruit intensity.

The BodegasAltos del Cuadrado www.altosdelcuadrado.com

This is a recent project established in 2003 by the Castaño family from Bodegas Castaño in Yecla. The family also own the Sierra Salinas bodega in Alicante and produce another Yecla, Viña al Lado de La Casa in partnership with Barcelona wine merchant Quim Vila. Alto del Cuadrado is a source of an attractive approachable red, and the more serious Triple V, which is dominated by dry-farmed Monastrell. The Altos del Cuadrado is a forward fruit driven style gaining a little structure from 4 months in wood. The Triple V by contrast sees between 10 and 14 months in a mix of French and American barrels.Recommended Reds: Jumilla Triple V (Monastrell, Petit Verdot) 87-89/ CJumilla Altos del Cuadrado (Monastrell, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon) 86-88/ B

Casa Castillo www.casacastillo.es

Casa Castillo is among the rising stars from Spain’s southern regions. Despite the hot, arid climate of the area the vineyards here are planted at an altitude of over 700m and this elevation and the limestone soils provide old bush-vine Monastrell of exceptional quality. The Monastrell label is full of vibrant juicy fruit and approachable young. The dark, spicy Valtosca is the odd man out in the range with no Monastrell just Syrah. Las Gravas has a small proportion of Garnacha and Syrah in a blend oozing dark, brambly old-vine fruit character. It is aged in French oak and like all three top wines the malolactic fermentation is in barrel. Pie Franco is 100% Monastrell from ungrafted vines that are over 65 years old. Rich, dense and spicy,

the wine is aged for 22 months in French oak. So far these all offer very good value. Recommended Reds: Jumilla Pie Franco (Monastrell) 89-91/ EJumilla Las Gravas (Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah) 88-90/ DJumilla Valtosca (Syrah) 88-90/ CJumilla Monastrell (Monastrell) 87-89/ B

south-west and southern spain


South-West and Southern Spain

This vast area of Spain includes two geographically very substantial autonomous communities, Extremadura and Andalucia. In Extremadura grape growing is very thinly spread, whereas across Andalucia a wide range of wine styles, some unique are produced in both DOs and VTs as well.

Extremadura

Extremadura is geographically a substantial area and both the Ribera del Guadiana DO and the catch all VT Extremadura cover vast tracts of land across south western Spain. Although in comparison to most other autonomous communities there are relatively few wine producers.

Andalucia

Andalucia has a much wider diversity of appellations and wine styles than its northern neighbour, Extremadura. To the west of the area is the Condado de Huelva, home to fresh whites and sherry lookalikes. Curving around Cadiz are the vineyards of Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Further east and stretching inland to high altitude are the vineyards of the Málaga/Sierras de Málaga DO producing sweet and fortified wines as well as modern styled reds and whites. Further inland to the north is the Montilla-Moriles region a source of similar styles to those made at Jerez, although not all are fortified.

To the east of Málaga is a likely new DO, now just VC, of Granada a source of good reds and whites from often very high altitude vineyards. There are now no fewer than 16 VT regions producing a wide range of wine styles and at varying quality levels.



Jerez-Xérès-Sherry/Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO

The DO which is the source of probably the country’s most historically famous wine; Sherry. In the modern wine world of branded oaky Chardonnays, fruit driven Southern Hemisphere reds and the many crisp and fresh whites produced across the world, the wines of this region are proving a hard sell. This is probably a bigger concern for some of the large bodegas making very

commercial styles. There will likely always be a market for the best quality from the region, which can still represent excellent value. Grape growing has been practiced here for over 3,000 years. Phoenician merchants introduced winemaking, and this was carried on by the Romans. The style has also long been associated with the English market, much like Claret and Port. As a result there is a substantial British heritage in the origins of the major sherry companies. The climate of the region is dry and hot during the summer but is tempered by the proximity of the ocean. There are a number of soil types but the best is albariza, which is a mix of chalk, limestone, clay and sand and it both retains moisture and aids photosynthesis by reflecting sunlight back to the vines. Palomino is by far the most widely planted grape variety and used in the making of the regions dry styles. Pedro Ximénez (PX) makes very rich, sweet wines, often better poured over high quality ice cream than drunk because they are almost overpowering. Moscatel also provides a number of sweet whites.

Most sherry is conventionally vinified with a primary fermentation before being fortified to a minimum of around 15% alcohol. At this point the wines are sorted for style. They are then aged in a solera which involves fractional blending where young fresh wine will be used to refresh the solera which will have evolved over a number of years, sometimes many, under controlled oxidative conditions.



There are a number of different styles. A Fino is aged under a flor yeast which develops naturally giving a salty, citrus character to the wine. It will be fortified to 15% and generally no more to protect the flor cover. Manzanilla, coming from Sanlúcar de Barrameda rather than Jerez, is very similar but often has a lighter more pronounced saline character, likely to be more to do with the local yeast strain than the very near proximity of the Atlantic. A number of these wines are now being released as En Rama, being bottled without filtration straight off the lees without stabilization or filtration.An Amontillado is aged for much longer under the flor yeast and takes on a richer nutty flavour but retains the underlying flavour character of the flor. As the yeast dies the wine will be fortified to around 17.5% to protect it. The naturally highest in alcohol of the sherry styles is Oloroso, which is immediately fortified to between 18% and 20% before ageing without any influence of flor. A rarer style is a Palo Cortado, which is initially aged like an Amontillado but the flor yeast dies earlier. The resulting wines tend to be a halfway house between an Amontillado and an Oloroso because of its developing oxidative qualities.

There are also a number of styles of Manzanilla where the wine is given longer ageing. These are Manzanilla Pasada, darker than a regular Manzanilla, Manzanilla Amontillada, more resembling an Amontillado and Manzanilla Olorosa, which takes on the richer aged character of an Oloroso. If you see Jerez Cortado on a label this will be a Manzanilla aged in the style of a Palo Cortado. The best Dulce styles are those that come from PX or Moscatel and are vinified from dried grapes. The more commercial styles of Pale Cream or Cream sherries tend to be made with grape must or concentrate added to a dry wine.

The BodegasAlvaro Domecq www.alvarodomecq.com

Good quality small sherry producer, now a part of the Avanteselecta Groups distribution operation. The wines, particularly at the lower levels offer excellent value for money. In addition to the wines rated below the bodega also produce a sound Oloroso, Alburejo, also very competitively priced as well as a 1730 labelled Palo Cortado and Amontillado Viejo. La Jaca is the lightest of the wines with an attractive citrus intensity and a classic salty undercurrent. La Janda is fuller and a touch more

concentrated with nutty, almondy tones, good fresh acidity and an earthy, salty flor yeast quality. The Aranda Cream is in marked contrast to many of the commercially available examples of the style. It is sweet and quite unctuous but with a fresh, zesty acidity holding it all together. In addition to the Palo Cortado and Amontillado there are two other top class wines under the premium 1730 label. The Pedro Ximénez is rich, very dark and concentrated with considerable sweetness but a fine citrussy



tang giving balance. The average age of the Oloroso 1730 solera is over 30 years and the depth and dry, nutty intensity of the wine is both rich and complex. Recommended Whites: Jerez y Manzanilla 1730 Oloros VORS (Palomino) 90-93/ EJerez y Manzanilla 1730 Pedro Ximénez (Pedro Ximénez) 89-91/ EJerez y Manzanilla La Janda Fino (Palomino) 86-88/ BJerez y Manzanilla Aranda Cream (Palomino) 86-88/ BJerez y Manzanilla La Jaca Manzanilla (Palomino) 85-87/ B

González Byass www.gonzalezbyass.com

One of the most famous names in sherry production with a large volume of sound, regular Fino and Amontillado. The Tio Pepe brand in particular, while produced in very large quantity, is nonetheless an impressive Fino – salty and intense with piercing citrus notes. An En Rama version is also now being sold. Of a different order are a number of super-rich Amontillados and Olorosos. These include

the full, rich Alfonso, Apóstoles, and most notably Matusalem. Two other very impressive, full-bodied styles are made. The Amontillado Del Duque is dry, very intense and almost overwhelms one with its full, rich and toffeed rancio character. The Noé Pedro Ximénez is unctuously sweet, very rich and heady but refined too. An extremely complex vintage Palo Cortado is also made, most recently tasted from 1982.Recommended Whites: Jerez y Manzanilla Añada Palo Cortado (Palomino) 94-100/ FJerez y Manzanilla Del Duque Amontillado VORS (Palomino) 92-95/ EJerez y Manzanilla Matusalem Oloroso VORS (Palomino, Pedro Ximénez) 90-93/ EJerez y Manzanilla Apóstoles Oloroso VORS (Palomino, Pedro Ximénez) 89-91/ E



Jerez y Manzanilla Noé Pedro Pedro Ximénez (Pedro Ximénez) 89-91/ EJerez y Manzanilla Leonor Palo Cortado (Palomino) 86-88/ BJerez y Manzanilla Viña AB Dry Amontillado (Palomino) 86-88/ BJerez y Manzanilla Tio Pepe Fino (Palomino) 86-88/ BJerez y Manzanilla Alfonso Oloroso (Palomino) 85-87/ B

Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana www.lagitana.es

Large Sanlúcar-based house with some impressive sherry brands. Best known is La Gitana Manzanilla, which provides consistently good value with fresh, tangy, lightly salty fruit. It particularly needs to be drunk young, as soon after you purchase it as possible. There is a volume range, Hidalgo Clasica producing all the classic sherry styles. Superior to these are the Premium range. These include the Napoleon Amontillado which is slightly toffeed and nutty but dry, and there is a Cream Alameda, an evolved and nutty Oloroso Seco Faraón and a concentrated Pedro Ximénez Triana as well as a nutty, citrus scented Palo Cortado, Wellington which is classified as VOS (Very Old Sherry). The Manzanilla Pastrana comes from the firms single vineyard of the same name. It is an aged Pasada, with an evolved, nutty character as well as an underlying hint of citrus. The range is completed by the impressive collection of rare Viejo wines. These are now classified as VORS (Very Old Rare Sherries). They are all stunningly complex.Recommended Whites: Jerez y Manzanilla Oloroso Faraón Viejo VORS (Palomino) 92-95/ FJerez y Manzanilla Palo Cortado Wellington Viejo VORS (Palomino) 92-95/ F Jerez y Manzanilla Pedro Ximénez Triana Viejo VORS (Pedro Ximénez) 90-93/ FJerez y Manzanilla Amontillado Napoleón Seco Viejo VORS (Palomino) 90-93/ EJerez y Manzanilla Palo Cortado Wellington VOS (Palomino) 89-91/ DJerez y Manzanilla Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana (Palomino) 87-89/ CJerez y Manzanilla Oloroso Faraón Seco (Palomino) 87-89/ CJerez y Manzanilla Pedro Ximénez Triana (Pedro Ximénez) 86-88/ CJerez y Manzanilla Amontillado Napoleón Seco (Palomino) 86-88/ C



Jerez y Manzanilla ManzanillaLa Gitana (Palomino) 85-87/ B

Bodegas Tradición www.bodegastradicion.es

Although only established in 1998 by three members of old Jerez families, Bodegas Tradición has an enviable holding of superb old sherry soleras. All the wines take the VOS classification (Very Old Sherry) for wines over 20 years. The old south-east facing cellars offer an ideal mix of wind and humidity for the soleras. All four wines have a depth and intensity of fruit rare indeed here. The nutty, tobacco scented Amontillado has an average Solera age of 40 years and its origins go back to the 19th century. The rich and concentrated nutmeg scented Oloroso is a touch older. Palo Cortado is exquisitely intense, with a piercing citrus undercurrent lifting the wine. The rich and unctuous Pedro Ximénez offers a glorious mix of cocoa, roasted coffee and marvellous balance and structure, so rare to find in these wines. All four are well worth searching out and are well priced for their quality.Recommended Whites: Jerez y Manzanilla Oloroso VORS (Pedro Ximénez) 92-95/ EJerez y Manzanilla Amontillado VORS (Palomino) 92-95/ EJerez y Manzanilla Palo Cortado VORS (Palomino) 92-95/ EJerez y Manzanilla Pedro Ximénez VOS (Pedro Ximénez) 90-93/ E

VCs and Country Wines

Andalucia is a vast area running from the Portuguese border and the Atlantic coast right round the southern Mediterranean coast to the Murcian coastline and then stretching some distance inland. In the eastern reaches of the Community in the province of Almería, inland of the city of Almeria

there are no fewer than five VT regions. These are Norte de Almería, Sierras de Las Estancias y Los Filabres, Desierto de Almería, Ribera del Andarax and Laujar-Alpujarra. Red and white varieties are cultivated in all and at the highest altitude. This is close to 900 metres and some characterful examples are produced.



There are now two VC regions which are likely to be upgraded to full DO status. VC Granada covers a substantial area in the east of Andalucia, stretching from the boundary with Málaga and then sweeping north-east across the Sistemico Pénibetico and to the eastern side of the Sistemo Betico right up to the borders of Castilla La Mancha and Murcia. Most of the vineyards are found at significant altitude and the best sites are cultivated on a mix of clay and slatey soils. A fairly wide range of grapes are planted with international varieties as well as Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez and the local characterful white Vijariego. There are also a further three VT regions in Granada, Altiplano de Sierra Nevada, Laderas de Genil and Cumbres del Guadalfeo (formerly Contraviesa-Alpujarra) and some good reds in particular are made. Very good wines are also released as Vino de Mesa (VdM)Andalucia.

In the north of the Community in the provinces of Jaen and Cordoba, there are a further five VT areas. In eastern Jaen is Torreperogil, to the west Bailén and to the south Sierra sur de Jaén. Reds including international varieties and whites are made. In Cordoba there is a large catch all Cordoba VT producing reds and rosés and a second much smaller region, Villaviciosa de Córdoba for dry and sweet whites.

In the province of Sevilla there are two DOs. In the north red and white grapes are grown, mostly international varieties at Sierra Norte de Sevilla with some decent examples. To the south in Los Palacios only whites are grown. The second of Andalucia’s VC regions Lebrija was confirmed in 2009 and white and red varieties are cultivated and fortified as well as light red and whites are made. To the south in the province of Cádiz is the extensive VT of the same name. Some of the best country wines across Andalucia are made here. There are good fruity whites and rosés and reds that range from soft and approachable to serious and impressively structured.

The BodegasBarranco Oscuro (VdM Andalucia) www.barrancooscuro.com

The origins of this bodega in the high mountains of Granada are not new, they date back to 1872. The quality of the wines being produced now is strikingly impressive. The 1368 red is so called because it comes from Spain’s highest cultivated vineyards. All of the bodegas 15 ha is farmed as naturally as possible and no chemicals or fertilizers are employed. The stony soils and high summer temperature variations provide wines of striking, nervy acidity and real intensity. The very well priced Blancas Nobles is a multi-varietal blend. Fine lifted grassy, citrus fruit is supported by nervy minerality. The Tempranillo y Mas red offers great value with spicy, smoky fruit, a blend aged in French and American oak. The Borgoñón Granate is earthy, ripe and dark fruited with a marked underlying acid grip. The top two wines though are the 1368 and the newly added Rubaiyat. Both are likely to age very well for up to a decade.Recommended Reds: VdM Andalucía 1368 Pago Ceras Las Monjas (Garnacha, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot) 88-90/ DVdM Andalucía Rubaiyat (Syrah) 88-90/ DVdM Andalucía Borgoñón Granate (Pinot Noir) 86-88/ CVdM Andalucía Tempranillo y Mas (Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot) 86-88/ B

Recommended Whites: VdM Andalucía Blancas Nobles Clasico (Viura, Malvasia) 86-88/ B

Huerta Albalá (VT Cádiz) www.huertadealbala.com

Considerable investment has gone into this 91 ha property producing benchmark reds in an area known principally for its fortified sherries. 75 ha is now planted to a mix of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and the local Tintilla de Rota on a mix of silt, sand and chalk. Indeed the quality of the



terroir provides for wines of very impressive quality. Barbarosa is a bright juicy rosado which gets a short maceration and then a period on lees to give it a little structure. There is a soft and approachable red Barbazul which is a blend of all the varieties and gains a little extra depth from 5 months in barrel. The regular Taberner is ripe and cedary with dark and spicy berry fruit and rich creamy oak as well as youthfully assertive tannins. The Taberner No 1 is denser, fuller with a really roasted

opulent character. Both of these are modern supple wines which will be accessible at a relatively young age.Recommended Reds: VT Cádiz Taberner No 1 (Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) 89-91/ EVT Cádiz Taberner (Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) 88-90/ DVT Cádiz Barbazul (Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) 86-88/ B

Recommended Rosés: VT Cádiz Barbarosa (Syrah) 85-87/ B

See alsoLa Bota De-Equipo Navazos (Jerez y Manzanilla DO) Pago del Vicario/ Pago del Mare Nostrum (VT Castilla - additional recommended bodegas)

the islands


The Islands

Winegrowing is successfully practiced in both the Canary and Balearic Islands. From an international perspective, while still rarely encountered you are more likely to come across wines from the Balearics and particularly Mallorca.

The Balearics

There are just two DOs here and both are on Mallorca. Most of the eastern half of the island extends to the Pla I Llevant DO. Binissalem is much smaller and borders Pla I Llevant to the north

of Palma de Mallorca. Of the VT classifications there is a general catch all umbrella VT Illes Balears including all 300 or so ha under vine and then a number of specific classifications covering the three smaller islands and two covering Mallorca.

Pla i Llevant DO

This is the larger of Mallorca’s two DOs. It also covers much of the same territory as the VT Mallorca classification. Viticulture has been practiced here on and off since Roman times. Much of the revival of winegrowing recently has been as a result of tourism in the Balearics. The vineyards are cultivated on marl and dolomite rocky soils with a significant clay and limestone content. Good drainage enables deep rooting vines and good fruit ripening and the maritime climate is moderated by strong winds. Both local native varieties Prensal Blanc, Callet, Fogoneu and Manto Negro and imported Macabeo, Parellada, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Merlot and Monastrell grapes are all grown. There are good fruit driven as well as barrel aged whites and stylish reds.

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Binissalem-Mallorca DO

This is the smaller of the two Mallorca DOs geographically but has a larger area under vine, albeit not huge at just over 600 ha.Local grapes are very much of significance. The Prensal Blanc accounts for over two-thirds of white vines planted, whereas the red Manto Negro accounts for well over a third of all vines cultivated. The lime over clay soils provide just sufficient water retention and good reds in particular are made, with the Manto Negro generally blended with other varieties.

Country Wines

While good wines are made on Mallorca itself under both the two regional DOs, arguably the best wines are being produced as Country Wines. VT Isla de Menorca covers the whole of that island but is tiny with just 20 ha or so planted to grape vines, while Ibiza (VT Eivissa) is barely bigger with 30 ha being cultivated. The tiny island of Formentera though seems to show what can be done, particularly with the dense, elegant and classy Cap de Barbaria red. The north of Mallorca which is covered by the VT Serra de Tramuntana Costa Nord appears to be good for Malvasia.

The widest spread of really good quality wine labelled as VT comes under the Mallorca classification. A broad mix, of both local and international varieties are planted giving the bodegas lots of scope for invention. Some of the best reds are emerging where local and international varieties make up a blend.

The Bodegas4 Kilos Vinicola (VT Mallorca) www.4kilos.com

This small and extremely impressive Mallorcan bodega, is also known just as 4 Kilos. It was established very recently and produced its first wine with the 2006 vintage. One of the two partners Francesc Grimalt was the winemaker at Anima Negra and he is continuing his work here with the native and

characterful Callet variety. Output is fairly small, currently at around 5,000 cases a year and the wines very fairly priced for their quality. The vineyards are planted with natural cover crops, the wines made with minimal intervention and fruit comes from a range of sources in Mallorca. The blend of the 4 Kilos red is dominated by the indigenous Callet with a healthy dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance from Syrah. The fruit is sourced from two small vineyards. The wine offers a richly textured and darkly spicy character to its fruit and is vinified in a distinctly modern

fashion. Fermentation and ageing is in small French oak with the malolactic in barrel. Supple and approachable, the wine should nevertheless develop well for a decade or so. A more approachable, fruit-driven second label 12 Volts is nevertheless full of depth and character and comes from Callet, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The bodega is also involved in another project producing a red, Gallinas y Focas, from a blend of Manto Negro and Syrah. It is a collaboration involving those with mental disabilities and their families.

the islands


Recommended Reds: VT Mallorca 4 Kilos (Callet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) 90-93/ EVT Mallorca 12 Volts (Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Callet, Fogoneu) 88-90/ C

Bodegues Ribas (VT Mallorca) www.bodeguesribas.com

The roots of the Ribas family date back in these Mallorcan vineyards to 1711. They cultivate a mix of international and local varieties in well-drained rocky vineyard soils. The new generation of Araceli and Xavier Ribas have gained valuable experience working in other major regions and have brought this knowledge to supplement the quality of grapes being produced in the family’s 40 ha. The growing conditions naturally produce very low yields and fruit with great flavour intensity comes from vines with an average of over 50 years of age. The Ribas label provides the softest and most accessible wines. There is a rosado as well as a fresh citrus fruited blanco and a juicy fruited tinto with extra depth and structure provided by 10 months in oak. The ripe and spicy red Sió is the most important wine in the small portfolio. Produced from a similar blend to the Ribas red it is aged

in French oak for a year, a proportion of which is new. Rich and very characterful with deep, dark and spicy berry fruit as well as a marked mineral quality is the

Ribas de Cabrera tinto. The wine, which is dominated by the indigenous Manto Negro, is aged for 15 months in French oak. As well as these the family also make a Sió blanco which gets six months in oak with a little Viognier as well as Prensal and Chardonnay, a further red Sió Contrast made from another indigenous grape the Gargollasa and a couple of Dulce bottlings. Soma is a white from Viognier which is a newly established joint venture project. These are excellent examples if you are visiting the island and worth hunting for elsewhere.Recommended Reds: VT Mallorca Ribas de Cabrera (Manto Negro, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) 89-91/ DVT Mallorca Sió (Manto negro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot) 87-89/ CVT Mallorca Ribas (Manto negro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot) 86-88/ B

Recommended Whites: VT Mallorca Ribas (Prensal Blanc, Viognier) 85-87/ B

The Canaries

There are 10 small DOs spread across the Canary Isles but as yet no VT classified regions. With the exception of Fuerteventura, all the other main islands have some form of winegrowing activity. As yet the vast majority, indeed not far short of 100% of the wines are consumed domestically. The soils throughout the island are generally volcanic with traces of lime and supporting clay. The vineyards on lower lying slopes tend to ripen earlier and the better sites are higher up with a clearer variation in day and night temperatures, all helping to provide acidity and better structure in the wines.

the islands


Wine quality seems to vary from island to island. No wines of any note have yet emerged from La Gomera. By contrast Lanzarote appears to have real potential. Maritime breezes moderate the climate and Malvasia dominates the vine holdings. There are good fresh and barrel fermented examples and some splendid Dulce and Dulce de Licor wines from Malvasia and Moscatel. Gran Canaria offers some potential. The best sites are at altitude and over 1,000 metres. Both red and sweet whites are worth considering.

Tenerife is the major island for wine production and is home to five separate DOs. In the north-east, Tacoronte-Acentejo has vineyard plots in lower lying valleys close to the sea and at higher altitudes rising towards 1,000 metres. Malvasia shows potential as do reds from Listan Negro, Negramoll and Syrah. To the south of Tacoronte-Acentejo is the Valle de Güimar, where the vines are found at altitude in pure black volcanic soils. Some good crisp whites and more serious barrel fermented wines come from a number of white grapes including Listan Blanco, Malvasia and Moscatel.

In the centre and stretching to the northern coast is the Valle de la Orotava. The vineyards range in altitude from just over 200 metres to around 800 metres. The soil is mostly volcanic and mixed with around 20% clay. From a wide range of permitted grapes there are some striking reds from wholly or partly the local Listán Negro. Bordering Orotava to the west is Ycoden-Daute-Isora. The soils near the coast are sandy as well as volcanic and with a sandy-clay component further inland. The vineyards are on the slopes of the extinct Teide volcano with altitudes rising from 50 to well over 1,000 metres. The best bets appear to be late harvest reds and whites.

In the southern corner of the island is the fifth of the Tenerife DOs, Abona. The appellation borders Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Valle de la Orotava and Valle de Güimar. The vineyards are also on the slopes of the Teide volcano and reach substantial altitudes, towards 1,800 metres. A few good reds and sweet whites are made.

Both the two most westerly islands in the Canaries, La Palma and El Hierro are DO regions. At

the islands


La Palma the vineyards are mainly around the coastal strip although a number of vineyards are at considerable altitude, up to 1,800 metres. The best wines are late harvest sweet whites. El Hierro has a very small vineyard area and as such the wines are rarely seen outside the domestic market. Although some of the vines are cultivated at up to 700 metres there is less of an altitude influence here as elsewhere.

Recommended Bodegas and winesBodegas Los Bermejos (Lanzarote) www.losbermejos.com Recommended Reds: Lanzarote Maceración Carbónica (Malvasía) 86-88/ B

Recommended Whites: Lanzarote Malvasía Naturalmente Dulce (Malvasía) 88-90/ DLanzarote Brut Nature Vintage (Malvasía) 86-88/ DLanzarote Malvasía Fermentado en Barrica (Malvasía) 86-88/ CLanzarote Malvasía Semidulce (Malvasía) 86-88/ B Lanzarote Malvasía Seco (Malvasía) 86-88/ B

El Grifo (Lanzarote) www.elgrifo.com Recommended Reds: Lanzarote El Grifo Tinto Barrica (Listán Negro) 87-89/ CLanzarote El Grifo Tinto (Listán Negro) 87-89/ C

Recommended Whites: Lanzarote El Grifo Canari Licor (Malvasía) 89-91/ ELanzarote El Grifo Seco Barrica (Malvasía) 87-89/ CLanzarote El Grifo Semidulce Colección (Malvasía) 87-89/ CLanzarote El Grifo Seco Colección (Malvasía) 87-89/ C

Recommended Rosés: Bodega Stratvs (Lanzarote) www.stratvs.com Recommended Whites: Lanzarote Naturalement Dulce (Malvasía) 90-93/ E

Suertes del Marqués (Valle de La Orotava) www.suertesdelmarques.com Recommended Reds: Valle de La Orotava Candio (Listán Negro) 87-89/ DValle de La Orotava El Esquilón (Listán Negro, Tintilla) 86-88/ CValle de La Orotava La Solana (Listán Negro) 85-87/ CValle de La Orotava 7 Fuentes Crianza (Listán Negro) 85-87/ BValle de La Orotava 7 Fuentes Tinto (Listán Negro) 85-87/ B

Recommended Whites: Valle de La Orotava Barrica (Listan Blanco, Vidueño) 85-87/ C


appendices

Appendices

A number of appendices are included here. There is a dedicated Spanish Grape Notes section as well as a general Glossary of technical and other terms. You will also find below a comprehensive credit of all photograhs included as well as other credits and copyright notices.

Spanish Grape Notes

AAirén is a white grape that dominates plantings in Spain’s central region La Mancha, producing a veritable sea of generally unexciting dull wines. At its best it can be lightly fruity and moderately attractive.

Albarín is a relatively rare white grape grown in northern Asturias and also planted in the Tierra de León DO as well as being included in Vinos de la Tierra whites from Castilla y León. Yields need to be controlled and the wine is often quite alcoholic with a light herbaceous character. At its best contributes to wines of real character.

Albariño is a top quality white grape mainly found in Galicia and has often been compared to Viognier. It shares some of that varieties perfume and it’s similarly best to focus on buying from good producers. Yields need to be kept low for the best results. Wines vary from light fresh and for youthful drinking to more serious barrel-fermented and aged examples, although these are much rarer. Most are aged on their fine lees for a few months.

Albillo is an emerging good quality white grape when handled correctly with restricted yields found mainly in west central Spain in the Vinos de Madrid DO with other wines taking the Vinos de la Tierra Castilla y León classification. Also planted in Ribera del Duero and the Canary Islands.

Alicante Bouschet is an unusual teinturier (a red fleshed grape) crossing which was once much more widely planted in southern France. It goes by the name of Garnacha Tintorera in Spain. Refer to Garnacha Tintorera.

BBobal is a relatively widely planted red variety in central Spain. The best examples produce concentrated, at times beguiling and very powerful black-fruited reds. They are rich in fruit and extract when coming from unirrigated, low-yielding old vines. Manchuela is particularly important.

Brancellao is a red variety grown in the Rias Baixas, Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro DOs in Spain, providing lightly coloured wine. Always a part of a blend for which it can provide additional backbone.

Bual is the Anglicised name for the native Boal variety of Madeira. The vine is also cultivated in Galicia (refer to Doña Blanca). It has also been proven to be a member of the Malvasia group of varieties through DNA testing.

CCabernet Franc (Cab Franc) is the parent variety of Cabernet Sauvignon and as a single varietal is more successful in cooler regions. Widely cultivated in Cataluña and produced both as a single varietal and in blends, particularly Bordeaux styled wines.

Cabernet Sauvignon (Cab Sauv) is one of the wine world’s greatest red grape varieties. It is however, tricky to find the right site with sufficient temperature and sunny conditions for optimum ripeness. If insufficiently ripe it can show unpleasant green pepper aromas and flavours with hard underripe tannins. In warmer sites flavours of chocolate and sometimes prune and raisons are unwanted characters. It is perfectly complementary in flavour and structure for ageing in small


appendices

French oak with flavours ranging from blackcurrant, cedar and dark cherry to fuller blackberry notes. Widely planted throughout Spain and more significant as a component of blends.

Caiño is a rare red variety cultivated in Ribeiro (where it may be referred to as Caiño Longo) and Rias Baixas producing wines with marked acidity and a typically nervy character from these climes.

Caiño Blanco is a very rare white grape which can be a component in blends from Rias Baixas.

Caiño Longo refer to Caiño.

Callet is a good quality red grape native to Mallorca.

Cariñena is the the same grape as Carignan, which is widely planted in southern France. In Spain it can be found in Montsant and Priorat where recovering old vine plantings and restricting yields for quality has the shown the potentially excellent quality that can be achieved from the grape. Fully ripened and from old vines the wines are intensely mineral and richly spicy and full of striking dark fruit. You may also find it as Samsó and Mazuelo.

Cariñena Blanca is the the same white variety as Carignan Blanc, which is itself very rare in southern France. It is a mutation of the Carignan Gris, also rare and that a mutation of Carignan or Cariñena. There are very isolated plantings in Empordà. The grape is though of impressive quality with low yields.

Cayetana is a white grape grown in the Extremadura, Montilla-Morilles and Jerez where it is generally distilled for use in brandy. At best it makes lightly fruity, herb scented wines.

Cencibel refer to Tempranillo.

Chardonnay is a hugely popular white grape variety across the world’s wine regions. It is very successful when vinified and aged in barrel and a range of wine making techniques can enhance its depth and enrich its texture. An increasing number of wines are also being vinified without recourse to oak and generally offer good value. In Spain most examples are produced in the north-east. The grape is also a component in Cava.

Chenin Blanc is white variety, not widely cultivated in Spain although there are some good examples, particularly in Cataluña. The variety is naturally high in acidity which helps provide structure and balance.

Crespiello is a native red variety of Aragón only recovered very recently. Produces impressive, characterful results through the work of the Bioenos laboratory. The variety produces wines with good natural balance but is difficult to cultivate. The original name of the variety is Vivadillo of Almonacid and is also known as Vidadillo.

Glossary

AAC is the French equivalent of the Spanish DO. Refer to Appellation Controlée.

Acetic Acid is one of the volatile acids in wine which when found in relatively high levels and exposed to air may react with bacteria and cause off odours before converting the wine to vinegar.

Acetobacter is the bacteria that causes the conversion of wine to vinegar.

Acidification is the addition of acid to grape must or wine where a wine has naturally low acidity and where the local regulations permit. Tartaric acid is most commonly used.

Acidity in wine gives it its freshness. The three main wine acids are tartaric, malic and lactic. The first two are naturally present, the third created through the malolactic fermentation.

Albariza is a soil which comprises chalk, limestone, clay and sand. It is encountered in Jerez y


appendices

Manzanilla and in Montilla-Moriles and one of the benefits is its potential in aiding photosynthesis by reflecting sunlight back to the vines.

Aldehyde is an organic compound formed in wine by the oxidation of alcohol.

Allier is one of the French forests where oak is sourced for barrel making.

Ampelography is the science of identifying grape varieties. Traditionally done by observing grape leaves and clusters it is much aided now by DNA fingerprinting.

Anthocyanins are polyphenols found in and just under grape skins that give grapes and wines their colour and add to flavour.

Appellation strictly speaking means a French Appellation Controlée region. Also used to make reference genetically to a quality wine region, in Spain a Denominación de Origen. refer to Appellation Controlée and DO.

Appellation Controlée or Appellation d’Origine Controlée is the top quality category for French wine. Denominación de Origen is Spain’s similar, main classification. There are specific rules and regulations relating to origin, permitted grape varieties, viticulture and wine characteristics.

Aspect is the topography of a vineyard or one or more of its plots/parcels. This includes its altitude as well as its direction and angle of slope.

Assemblage is a French term referring to the blend of a wine just prior to bottling. This will be from both components of the same grape variety and the blend of varieties if a number of grapes are included. Wines can often be vinified by variety, vineyard site or plot and then the components cellared in different ageing vessels. All may play a part in the blend of the final wine.

Autolysis is the process in sparkling winemaking where dead yeast cells or lees add increased flavour and texture to wine aged in bottle, usually under a crown cap. The longer the wine is in contact with the yeast deposit the more striking and complex the character becomes. In general wines spending less than 18 months on yeast will have minimal or no autolytic character, the wines will be much more marked by varietal and fruit flavours. Many top sparkling wines, including Cavas, may spend many years on their yeast deposit.

BBâtonnage is the stirring of a wines fine lees after primary fermentation which results in greater flavour and a richer texture. This is now a popular process with top quality barrel fermented white wines. As well as the addition of flavour the process guards against reduced hydrogen sulphide aromas which can be difficult to remove. The limited controlled oxidation the wine receives achieves this.

Barrique is a universally popular and widely used oak barrel typically of 225 litre capacity. A range of other smaller barrel sizes are now used by winemakers, in general the larger the vessel the less overt oak influence is desired in the wines flavour.

Bentonite refer to Fining.

Biodynamic is a specific method of organic farming. Proponents believe that the holistic relationship between soils, plants and animals provides a self-sustaining system that promotes sustainable viticulture and improves the quality and resulting flavour of the wines produced. Like other forms of organic farming natural treatments are prepared for use in the vineyard. This was a fairly controversial science until quite recently with many sceptics but the quality of wines being produced along these lines across the globe suggests biodynamic farming has much going for it.

Blanc de Blancs is generally a sparkling wine made solely from white grape varieties.

Blanc de Noirs is a sparkling wine made solely from red grapes.


appendices

Photo Credits

North-East Spain Page 10 - courtesy of Castillo de Sajazarra www.castillodesajazarra.com

North-East Spain - Cataluna Page 11 - courtesy of Costers del Segre CRDOPage 12 - courtesy of Albet i Noya www.albetinoya.catPage 13 - courtesy of Agustí Torelló Mata www.agustitorellomata.comPage 14 - courtesy of Torres www.torres.es Page 16 - courtesy of Portal del Priorat www.portaldelpriorat.comPage 17 - courtesy of Ferrer Bobet www.ferrerbobet.com

North-East Spain - Aragon Page 18 - courtesy of Viñas del Vero www.vinasdelvero.com

North-East Spain - Navarra Page 19 - courtesy of Navarra CRDOPage 20 - courtesy of Aroa Bodegas www.aroawines.comPage 21 - courtesy of Navarra CRDO

North-East Spain - La Rioja Page 22 - courtesy of Castillo de Sajazarra www.castillodesajazarra.comPage 23 - courtesy of Bodegas Exopto www.exopto.netPage 24 - courtesy of Bodegas Roda www.roda.esPage 25 - courtesy of Telmo Rodriguez www.telmorodriguez.com

North-West Spain Page 27 - courtesy of Telmo Rodriguez www.telmorodriguez.com

North-West Spain - Castilla y León Page 28 - courtesy of Pago de Carraovejas www.pagodecarraovejas.comPage 29 - courtesy of Pago de Carraovejas www.pagodecarraovejas.comPage 30 - courtesy of Emilio Moro www.emiliomoro.com Page 32 - courtesy of Bodegas Naia www.bodegasnaia.com Page 33 - courtesy of Bodegas Menade (Sitios de Bodega) www.sitiosdebodega.com Page 34 - courtesy of Vinos Sanz (Finca La Colina) www.vinossanz.com Page 36 - courtesy of Toro CRDOPage 37 - courtesy of Maurodos www.bodegasanroman.comPage 38 - courtesy of Cámbrico (VC Sierra de Salamanca) www.cambrico.comPage 39 - courtesy of Cámbrico (VC Sierra de Salamanca) www.cambrico.comPage 40 - courtesy of Bodegas Mauro (VT Castilla y León) www.bodegasmauro.com

North-West Spain - Galicia Page 41 - courtesy of Joachim Buchta Page 42 - courtesy of Santa Marta www.vinaredo.com

Central Spain - Madrid Page 44 - courtesy of CRDO Vinos de MadridPage 45 - courtesy of Bodega Marañones www.bodegamaranones.com


appendices

Central Spain - Castilla La Mancha Page 46 - courtesy of CRDO Vinos de MadridPage 47 - courtesy of Jiménez-Landi www.jimenezlandi.com Page 48 - courtesy of CRDO ManchuelaPage 50 - courtesy of Bodegas Almanseñas www.ventalavega.com Page 52 - courtesy of Mano a Mano www.manoamano.com Page 53 - courtesy of Manuel Manzaneque (Pago Finca Élez) www.manuelmanzaneque.com

South-East Spain - Communidad Valenciana Page 54 - courtesy of Heretat de Taverners www.heretatdetaverners.comPage 55 - courtesy of Heretat de Taverners www.heretatdetaverners.comPage 56 - attributed under the Creative Commons Attribution Generic Licence

South-East Spain - Murcia Page 58 - courtesy of CRDO YeclaPage 60 - attributed under the Creative Commons Attribution Generic Licence

South-West and Southern Spain - Andalucia Page 61 - attributed under the Creative Commons Attribution Generic LicencePage 62 - courtesy of González Byass www.gonzalezbyass.com Page 63 - courtesy of Alvaro Domecq www.alvarodomecq.com Page 64 - courtesy of González Byass www.gonzalezbyass.com Page 65 - courtesy of Alvaro Domecq www.alvarodomecq.com Page 66 - courtesy of Huerta Albalá www.huertadealbala.com Page 68 - courtesy of Huerta Albalá www.huertadealbala.com

The Islands - The Balearics Page 316 - courtesy of Bodegues Ribas www.bodeguesribas.com Page 317 - courtesy of 4 Kilos Vinicola www.4kilos.com Page 318 - courtesy of Bodegues Ribas www.bodeguesribas.com

The Islands - The Canaries Page 322 - courtesy of CRDO La Palma

Copyright and other credits

Copyright First published in 2012 by Gooses Multimedia Ltd Copyright © 2012 Gooses Multimedia Ltd Text Copyright © 2012 David Moore

General credits Project management and editing - Janey Gilbert Graphic design - Davis Wadicci

Text credit The origin of some of the bodega profile text is based on material written by David Moore for the wine guide “Wine behind the label” published by Bacchus & Comus Ltd.

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