Vincent Reed

Vincent Reed Ltd

Conservation & Restoration for Period Woodwork

10 September, 2013

Monday, 9 September 13

What we are going to talk about

• The importance of conservation and restoration

• Conservation and restoration of period woodwork

• Case studies will be used to illustrate how to;

• Identify original architectural woodwork

• Understand the importance of Patina

• Prepare the woodwork for refinishing

• Identify and apply the correct finish to woodwork

• Materials and techniques you can use - and those you must avoid!


What is the difference between conservation and restoration?

Conservation

To preserve against further deterioration

Restoration

To restore the original appearance and

functionality - without erasing history!


Why is conservation and restoration so important?

History Heritage Identity

We can’t rewrite our history

Our heritage is our unique identity and needs to be preserved

How do we safeguard our heritage?

Unified policy

Wider education

Sharing best practice


Identifying what you see and making the right decision

What is the purpose of

the woodwork?

What typeof finish is

required - if any?

AestheticInterior doors, panelling,

mouldings, rails and furniture

DurabilityExterior doors, windows, floors

and staircases

AestheticPreparation will be gentle

by hand

Finish will be softer ; Shellacs,Waxes and Oils

DurabilityPreparation can be more

vigorous

Finish will be harder; Varnishes and Lacquers

QUESTION QUESTIONANSWER

ANSWER ANSWER

ANSWER


Late 19th century exterior oak doors coated with a thick modern exterior lacquer


Dry Scrapping the modern ‘Finish’


Water based exterior acrylic lacquer applied with synthetic brushes and a wax finish


Window Conservation and Restoration Ballie Scott House


An example of over cleaning a17th century staircase caustic soda


PreparationHow to safely prepare a wood surface

Solvent Strippers

A traditional stripper still used in period woodwork restoration

today

Removes finishes gradually without damaging the surface

No discolouration

Patina can be partially preserved with care

A finer cleaner finish

Prevents irreversible damage

Time consuming and costly

Caustic Strippers

NEVER used in period woodwork restoration

Main ingredient sodium or potassium hydroxide - stains the

wood surface by reacting with the natural acids

Staining permanently masks all original patina

Dissolves glues and weakens joints

Eco Strippers

A modern stripper used in period woodwork restoration today


No discolouration

Patina can be preserved with care




Methylated Spirits



No discolouration

Patina is preserved




Reviver Solutions & Detergents



No discolouration

Patina is preserved




CLEANING STRIPPING

ONLY USE WHEN REVIVER SOLUTIONS, DETERGENTS AND METHYLATED SPIRITS ARE NOT

STRONG ENOUGH

NEVER USE ON PERIOD WOODWORK

prevents irriversible damage?


Late17th century oak paneling painted with lead based paints at the turn of the century


Stripping back the lead based paint by hand


The original oak paneling fully restored


Materials and TechniquesWhat to use and how to use it - and what to avoid

Materials

Preparations:Reviver solutions & Detergents

Methylated Spirits

Finishes:Conservation Varnish

French PolishesOils

ShellacsWater Lacquers

Waxes

New timber for old repairs

Techniques

Hand cleaning with suitable preparations

Blunt hand held scrappers

Fine wire wools

Stiff brushes

Ultra fine sand paper - only to be used in very specific instances

Hot air gun - with extreme caution

SUITABLE NOT SUITABLE

Materials

Preparations:Caustic strippers

Coarse sand paper

Finishes:Polyurethane Varnish

Marine PaintsMarine Varnishes

Screw and nails to repair jointsIrreversible glues to repair joints

Techniques

Sand blasting

Sanding below 150 grit- unless extenuating circumstances

Blow lamps


New timber for old repairsNew timber for old repairs

Restoration of a late 18th century solid oak floor



Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor



Restoration of late 18th century oak floor – a repair



Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor – applying the correct finish by hand



Restoration of late 18th century oak floor – fully restored


SandpaperWhat really happens when coarse sandpaper is used on wood?

Example of how polish ‘pools’ in the grooves made by the sandpaper scoring the surface of

the wood

Example of how polish is displaced evenly across the surface of wood that has been sympathetically cleaned

back and stripped by hand

Wood SurfacePOLISH

Wood Surface

Sanding causes damage the fibre in the wood

The surface becomes rough to the touch

Absorbency factor of the wood is increased significantly

As a result polish applied will cause the fibres to expand - resulting in an uneven finish

This is called ‘furring the grain’

The original patina is permanently lost


SandblastingWhat happens when a sand blasting machine is used on wood?

Advantages of sandblasting

What sandblasting really does

Quick

Cheap

Natural character destroyed

Quality destroyed

Patina destroyed

Mouldings and details destroyed

Fibers are damaged

Pitted surface that cannot be cleaned


An unfortunate example of the costly devastation that sand blasting causes


An unfortunate example of the costly devastation that sand blasting causes – continued!


The paneling when fully restored


A careful reminder


StainsDifferent types of stains and how to use them correctly

Soluble when mixed with methylated spirits

Light fast

Typically used for general colour change

Suitable for use on all wood surfaces

Methanol Stains Nitro Stains Water StainsSpirit StainsFumesEarth PigmentsOil Stains

Soluble when mixed with turpentine or

thinners

Can be used to colour polishes applied with

a spray gun

Slightly more aggressive than methanol based

stains

Soluble when mixed with turpentine

Widely used in all manner of staining

Ideal for use as a ‘base colour’ - a milds stain that provides an even

base colour over which a main colour can be

built

Naturally occurring minerals

- mostly iron oxides E.g. Ochre, Umber,

Sienna

Used since prehistoric times - cave paintings

Used to produce a ‘blind’ to block grain

Raises the grain

Bichromate of potash

Potassium permanganate

Ammonia

Nitric acid

Staining of wood is caused by a chemical

reaction with the wood

Used on woods prone to uneven natural

colouring E.g. Pine


Quick to dry

Can be mixed with shellac based polishes

to provide colour

Probe to fading

Soluble when mixed with water

Produces the best quality colours

Slow to dry

Can NOT be used with unsealed wood - it will ‘fur’ and raise the grain

Ideal for use on antique wood with good patina

Professional use only

NON AGGRESSIVE AGGRESSIVE VERY AGGRESSIVE


FinishesDifferent types of finish and how to use them


Typically used as a ‘barrier’ to preserve the

surface of the wood from the final finish

being applied

Conservation Varnish Waxes Oils Water

LacquersShellac

PolishesFrenchPolishes


Can be used on interior woodwork that

does not need re-polishing

Applied as a final step to all manner of

finishes for it’s silky appearance


Widely used for all types of interior

woodwork

Can be applied in thin coats - low build

Not suitable for hard wearing surfaces that

require a durable finish E.g. floors

Applied by hand with a ‘Rubber’ - cotton wool wrapped in a cotton

sheet

Boiled Linseed Oil:



woodwork

Slow to dry - up to 1 week per coat

Flooring Oil:

Quick to dry

Tough and durable - high build

REVERSIBILITY EXCELLENT



woodwork

Can be applied in thin coats - low build

Not suitable for hard wearing surfaces that

require a durable finish E.g. floors

REVERSIBILITY GOOD

Soluble when mixed with water

Widely used for floor finishing -

Tough and durable - high build

REVERSIBILITY OK


Important things to remember . . .

1. Conservation of the remaining original woodwork

2. Conservation of any original patina

3. Sympathetic cleaning methods

4. Reversibility of methods and the correct materials to use

5. Never use a sandblaster!

6. ALWAYS consult a professional conservator restorer!


Sharing best practice starts with you

EnglishHeritage

PMContractorArchitect

Local AuthorityRestorer

Surveyor


Questions . . .

Vincent Reed LtdLittle Washbrook FarmBrighton RoadHurstpierpointWest SussexBN6 9EF

Tel: 01273 833 869 / 07815 751 005

email: [email protected]


mailto:[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

Some recommended ‘light’ reading . .

• The Elements of Style: A Practical Encyclopedia of Interior Architectural Details, from 1485 to the Present

• Stephen Calloway (Editor), Elizabeth Cromley (Editor)

• Period House Fixtures and Fittings 1300-1900 (England's Living History) [Paperback]

• Linda Hall (Author)

• The Victorian House Explained (England's Living History) [Paperback]

• Trevor Yorke (Author)

• Three Centuries of Architectural Craftsmanship (Library of Period Detailing) [Paperback]

• C AMERY (Author)


http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=Stephen%2520Calloway

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=Stephen%2520Calloway

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_2?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=Elizabeth%2520Cromley

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_2?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=Elizabeth%2520Cromley

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=Linda%2520Hall

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=Linda%2520Hall

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trevor-Yorke/e/B001JPC5GC/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trevor-Yorke/e/B001JPC5GC/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=C%2520AMERY

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books-uk&field-author=C%2520AMERY

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