Villa  d'Este  Wine  Symposium  2015    

Seminars'  Highlights                

       Day  1:  Friday  the  6th  November    SEMINAR   1:   William   Metz:   Vino   Premio   Award   (2014)   Terroir   Analysis   with  drones  (Final  report)      Born  &  raised:  California/Switzerland.  Also  winemaking  background/studies.  William  won  the  VDEWS  scholarship  last  year  for  this  project.  Since  then  working  with  15  different  producers,  3-­‐4  visits/year.  200  flights.    Germany,   France,   Switzerland:   Trimbach,   Loosen,   Dönnhoff,   Montrose,   Lascombes,  Faiveley,   DRC,   Liger   Belair,   Rousseau,   Ch.   Charles,   Ch.   Candale,   Domanine   de   l’A   and  more.    Using  a  “Sensefly”  drone.    Route   of   drone   planned   on   computer;   not   controlled  manually.   40  min   flight   time   on  average.    Why  use  drones?  Viticulture   is   a   continuous   series  of  observation  and   reaction.  UAV’s  are  good  at  spatial  observation.      

   What  can  a  drone  help  with  in  viticulture?    “Precision”  viticulture.  Collect  data  in  vineyards,  evaluate,  and  adjust  actions  for  specific  vineyards/terroir.    

Mapping  soil  and  geology,  grapes  (plants).  Precision  of  2-­‐5cm/pixel  pictures.    Software  stitching  together  pictures  from  various  flights/pictures  creating  a  complex  map.    Useful  for  observing/adjusting:    

• Growth  cycle,  photosynthetic  behaviour.    • Vigour  • What  parts  of  a  given  vineyard  are  performing  the  best.    • Irrigate/fertilize  smarter.    • Track  virus  movement  through  vineyards.  • Erosion  risk.    • Differences  in  soil,  nutrition,  available  water  etc.    • Both  physical  measurements  and  3D  measurements  like  sun-­‐exposure  e.g.    

 How  to  use  collected  data:    

• Tie   knowledge   to   timing/cycle   of   grape   vine.   Adapt   data   to   different   times   of  year/cycle  to  know  when  to  do  what.    

• Harvest  planning.   (Also   for   logistical   concerns:  best  use  of  equipment,  workers,  tanks,  press  etc.  optimise  via  planning  of  what  to  pick  when)  

• Zoning   of   vineyard.   Selective   harvest.     Data   from   drone   combined   with  (traditional)  analysis  of  grapes  gives  high  precision.  

• Monitoring  vintage  differences  and  adapt  actions  to  specific  vintage.    • Combine   with   soil   samples   for   in-­‐depth/detailed   map   and   understanding   of  

vineyard.    • 3D  mapping  of  vineyards.  (Also  to  show  consumers  for  promotional  purposes).    • 3D  model  combined  with  solar  simulation.  (How  much  sun  are  different  spots  of  

vineyard   really   getting)   What   time   of   day/year.   How   many   sun   hours/days   a  year.  Combined  with  weather  data.    

• Data   to  use  by  producer  on  app.  You  can   literally  walk   in  vineyard  and   it  gives  you  accurate  data  of  the  spot  where  you  are  standing.  (Vines  and  soil)    

 Conclusion:   easy   to   gather   data   from   drone.   The   analysis   is   the   challenge.   Key   is   to  validate   and   calibrate   findings  with   “traditional”  ways   of   gathering   data.   Good   results  with  zoning  of  vineyard  and  harvest  planning.      Q:  what  are  the  costs  involved  for  the  winery?    A:   not   yet   a   commercial   project.   Still   to   be   calculated.   Future:   highly   timesaving   for  producers.      Comment:  future  plans  to  create  company  that  offers  these  services  to  wineries.      Q:  who  owns  data?  A:  the  winery  is  the  owner  of  the  data.      Comment:  Possible   to   add   camera   to   tractor   to   add   further   info   about   yields   etc.  This  would  add  another  layer  of  information.          

SEMINAR  2:  Alexandre  Schmitt:  Wine  and  Flavors    (400  aromas  usually  in  a  wine)  Alexandre  is  a  “nose”.  Experience  from  the  perfume  industry.      The   sense   of   smell.   There   is   no   such   thing   as   a   smell.   It’s   your   perception.   Your   own  realm  of  senses.    The  analyse  of  smells:  Recognition,  pleasure  and  comparison.    When  you  smell  something  your  brain  compares  it  to  a  memory  of  a  similar  smell.    Your  memories  are  unique  and  therefore  your  perception  of  a  given  smell  is  individual.    “The  subjective  element  of  perception”  Adapting  this  to  wine…  Why  do  we  speak  so  much  about  wine?  How  come  this  abnormality  of  discussing  wine  more  than  any  other  thing?  Why  can  we  speak  for  hours  about  wine  and  not  anything  else?    We  all   suffer   from   the   addiction  of   speaking   about  wine;   a  need   to   speak  about  wine.  Because  it  encompasses  our  senses,  memory  and  emotions.      Not   just   aromas,   but   also   textures  when  we   speak   about  wine.  When  we   think   about  pear  e.g.  it  is  not  only  the  aroma  itself  but  also  the  juiciness.    Can  we  smell  analytically?  Can  we  translate  our  subjective  perception  of  a  given  smell  into   something   analytical,   that  we   can   all   understand   and   agree   on?   Can  we   define   a  smell?      Our  memories  of  a  given  smell  are  intimate,  private  and  highly  subjective;  how  can  we  translate  this  into  something  common  and  definable?  We  can  train  ourselves  in  speaking  the  same  language.  Training  in  how  to  describe  and  define   aromas.   We   can   all   learn   the   “language   of   aromas”.   Just   like   learning   a   new  language,  we  can  learn  to  speak  the  language  of  aromas;  learn  to  define  aromas.  Any  aroma  is  an  image.  The  context  is  the  wine,  the  medium.      

 

There   are   2  ways   to   discuss  wine;   the   subjective   and   the   analytical.   The  aromas:   apple,   peach,   caramel   et   are   subjective   images   of  memories   and  impossible   to   analyse,   how   many   molecules   of   apple?   Impossible.   The  image  of  apple  aroma  is  something  you  create  yourself.  But,  we   can   define   certain  molecules   existing   in   grapes   and   these   can   be  explained.  These  molecules  in  combination  give  us  an  image  of  an  aroma,  like  e.g.  apple.  This  is  the  analytical  language  of  aromas.    All  senses  work  together;  not  only  smell.  Your  “result”  of  a  wine  is  a  combination  of  all  senses,  even   if  you  concentrate  on  the  nose  only.  The  olfactory  sense  only  makes  up  a  minor  %  of   the   entire   perception.   Vision   is   today   by   far   the   strongest   and  most   used  sense  for  man.    When  man  changed  from  crawling  to  standing  up,  became  homo  erectus,  nature  started  favouring  the  visual  sense.  Before  the  olfactory  sense  was  favoured.  This  is  a  part  of  the  human  evolution.  It  was  the  evolution  of  the  species  that  favoured  vision  over  small  and  taste.  We   have   more   words   about   visual   descriptions   then   tactile,   olfactory   and   any   other  sense.    In  any  language  there  are  more  words  to  describe  what  we  see  than  what  we  feel,  see,  taste  and  smell.    Visual:  more  than  20  words  in  English.  Touch:  maybe  5.  Taste;  sweet,  sour,  salt,  bitter.  Smell:  not  only  one!  Only  analogies.      How  to  objectivise  the  subjective  perception  of  a  wine?    Sensory  experiment.  All  participants  are  given  an  aroma  sample  and  have  to  note  down  some  words  that  come  to  mind.  (Below  my  personal  perceptions,  the  actual  aroma  noted  in  bold)    1:  wood,  resin,  rosemary.  Pine.  Cedar.    Words  used  both  fall  into  categories  of  dry  and  fresh.    (aromas  can  also  be  confused  with  the  dryness  of  tannins)      

 

 2:  Eucalyptus,  camphor,  menthol.  Lavender.  Honey.  Resinous.  Aromas:  only  in  the  category  of  fresh.    3:  Caramel,  candied  orange.  Vitamin  pill.  All  references  relate  to  something  sweet.  Can  we  smell  sweet?  It  is  resin  of  a  South  American  tree.    Balsamic.  4:  Brown  syrup,  caramelized  sugar.  Vanilla.  Brown  butter.  Animal.  Musky.  Sweat  of  an  animal.    Leather.  Balsamic.  Tobacco  leaf.  Toast  of  oak.  Vanilla  extract,  Madagascar.    5:  Vanilla.  Sugar  with  vanilla.  Lighter  purer  less  pungent  vanilla.  Powdery,  sugary.    Almond.  Synthetic  Vanillin.  NB;  synthetic  flavours  are  created  by  human  and  does  not  exist  in  nature.  6:  Orange  peel.  Orange  juice.  Acid,  bitter,  fresh,  sweet,  soapy.  Green  Indian  orange.    NB;  the  combination  of  acidity,  sweetness,  bitterness  and  salt  =  balance,  also  of  aromas.  A  natural  balance  between  elements  that  complies  not  only  for  taste.    Humans  have  a  natural  affinity  for  sweetness,  as  our  mother’s  milk  is  sweet.  We  gradually  grow  away  from  this  with  age  but  unconsciously  sweetness  =  comfort  and  safety.    (If   you   had   a   good,   safe   breastfeeding   period   you   like   sweet.   If   you   had   a   dramatic  breastfeeding  period  you  hate  sweet).      Bitterness  is  a  very  refined  taste.  To  like  and  enjoy  bitterness  is  a  highly  refined  thing.  More  refined  cuisines  like  many  Asian  use  much  more  bitterness.      7:  Mandarin  peel.  More  metallic,  petrol,  bitter.  Madarin    Nb,  mandarin  is  the  original,  clementine  is  a  manipulated  version  with  less  seeds.  Real  mandarin  has  a  lot  more  complexity  and  bitterness.  More  vibrant.    NB.  we  THINK  that  mandarin  and  orange  are  similar  because  they  look  the  same.  Again,  the  visuals  dominate  our  perception.  Smell  is  very  different.      Tasting  of  a  wine  to  adapt  new  sensory  knowledge:    2011  Chateau  Guiraud.  Vanilla,   caramel,   honey,   a   fresh   resinous   note.   Patisserie.   Wood.   Floral   notes,   peony.  Apricot.  Spicy  (white  pepper).  Round  and  quite  rich  on  palate.  Opulent.  Juicy,  then  very  spicy.  Lots  of  pleasant  bitterness   in   finish   that  balances   the  wine  up   together  with   the  acidity.  Sweet  notes  from  oak  in  the  aftertaste.      Fresh  versus  dried  fruit:  Oxidation  changes  the  whole  spectre  of  aromas  completely.  A  fresh  prune  versus  a  dried  one  do  not  share  any  similarities.    Different  universes  of  aromas.    Pineapple  note  is  usual  found  in  dried  white  grapes.                      

SEMINAR  3:  Claude  &  Lydia  Bourgignon,  Terroirs  and  Soils      What  is  terroir?  Composed  by:    

• Climate   (man   is   slowly   changing   this).   Climate   has   to   be   mild.    Varieties  adapted  to  climates.  (Pinot  Noir  =  Burgundy  /  Grenache  =  Spain)    

• Topography.  Dry  soil  heats  up  quickly;  wet  soil  heats  up  very  slowly.  Rainfall  can  be  managed;  Bordeaux  drainage  as  example.    

• Geology:   Rock   structure.   Horizontal/vertical   rock   structure.     Type   of   rock,  adapted  to  different  varieties.    Poor/rich  in  minerals.    

• Soil:  bio  diversity,  structure.    • Varieties:   varieties   adapts   to   specific   terroirs,   Planting   density.   Pre-­‐phylloxera  

very  high  density  was  the  only  way  to  avoid  diseases  as  there  was  no  spraying.  Example:  Burgundy  24.000  plants/HA    then;  now  10.000.  Same  picture  in  other  regions.  

• Training  of  wines:  also  adapted  to  terroir/climate  to  optimise.    • Grafting  according  to  soil  type.    • Cellars   constructed   of   same   stone   as   in   vineyards   =   harmony.  Wines   grown   in  

limestone  should  be  made  in  limestone  cellars  etc.        =  Vin  de  Terroir.      Biological  dimension  of  soil:  TOP  LAYER:    Fauna  =  eaten  by  small  animals/insects/mites/worms/  =  creating  humus.  (4  billion  live  individuals/HA)    They  make  an  airy,  light  and  water  absorbing  soil  structure.  Soil  should  be  aerated;  roots  go  deeper,  water  is  drained,  soil  is  heated.      

 

 Texture   of   soil.   Importance   of   structure   of   clay.   Stores   silicate   and  aluminium  in  the  surface.    Therefore   we   should   never   destroy   the   superficial   layers.   (But   yes   the  superficial   roots   as   the   plant   go   deeper   =   old   philosophy   to   improve  quality.)    MID  LAYER:  dead  roots  inhibited  by  mites  etc.  This  allows  deeper  roots  to  flourish  and  also   the  creation  of  new  roots.  Worms  are  of  great   importance   for  working   the  soil  as  they  transport  structure  and  nutrients  between  the  different  soil  layers.    Today  roots  stay  in  surface  as  soil  is  destroyed.  Today  usually  only  go  50cm  deep;  before  2,5m.  If  there  are  no  herbs  on  surface,  roots  stay  in  surface  as  there  is  no  competition.  Vertical  roots  are  very  important  for  the  quality  and  longevity  of  the  vineyard.    Importance  of   fungal  bodies;  mushrooms  and  mycelium  as   they  create  antibiotics   that  protects  the  plants  and  help  them  live  longer  and  better.    Microbes:  without  microbes  the  plant  cannot  absorb  nutrients;  Nitrates,  sulphates  and  phosphates;  via  oxidation  or  chelation.    We   have   no   expression   of   “terroir”   without   a   live   soil.   It   is   the   microbes/fauna   that  aerates  the  soil.  (We  are  destroying  this  with  chemicals  and  mechanical  work)    The   plant   also   lives   on   air   =   photosynthesis.   Carbon,   Hydrogen   and   Oxygen.   Canopy  creates  sugar/alcohol.    Cofactors  (zinc,  potassium,  iron  etc.)  and  enzymes.  This  is  what  makes  your  soil  different  from  the  neighbour.  So  Terroir  is  the  life  and  processes  of  our  soil.      Quality/type   of   clay/   not   quantity   of   clay.   Internal   surface   of   clay   binding   minerals.  Deciding  what  varieties  perform  best.    Great  internal  surfaces  :  red  wine  Small  internal  surfaces:  white  wine      Analysis  of  clay  surfaces:  outer  surfaces  are  homogenous,  internal  surfaces  are  not.    Even  within  Clos  de  Tart  where   they  made  a   study   there   are   great  differences  of   clay  structure  in  different  depths  and  parts.    Clay  with  a  larger  internal  surface  has  a  much  larger  capability  of  feeding  the  plant  and  therefore  producing  great  wines.    This  knowledge  can  help  us  understand  where  great  wine  really  can  be  made.    We   also   need   to   use   rootstock   that  matches   the   soil   to   ensure   proper   feeding   of   the  plant.    This  was  also  proved   in  other   regions   through  studies;   amongst  others   in  Champagne  and  at  Pingus.    Studies   prove   that   clay   forms   a   much  more   important   role   for   quality   than   formerly  regarded.    We  see  that  this  must  have  been  the  explanation  why  some  varieties  are  planted  where  they  are.  It  really  makes  a  huge  difference.      Many  Italian  terroirs  have  a  high  content  of  magnesium  =  pleasant  bitterness  in  taste.    Most  terroir  typicality’s  have  an  explanation  in  soil  structure  and  contents.        

 SEMINAR  4:  Sylvain  Pitiot:  Cartography  of  the  Burgundy  vineyard      ClimaVinea  app    Digital  app  dedicated  to  wine  lovers;  mainly  Burgundy  lovers.    

• Showing   maps   and   all   details   of   vineyards.   All   his   work   compiled   in   one   app.  1400  “climats”.    

NB:  Un  climat:  in  Burgundy  sense:  a  notion  of  parcelling.      

• You   can   geo-­‐localise   where   you   are   and   get   info   about   the   vineyard   you   are  standing  in.    

• Contains  a   “who’s-­‐who”  of  Burgundy.  132  elite  estates  and  negociants.  Selected  via  a  cross  of  3  great  journalists  including  Steven  Tanzer  and  Michael  Bettane.    

• Encyclopaedia  of  Burgundy  as  region;  history  and  culture.  Explaining  history  of  names  of  climats.    

• Vintage  charts  and  price  statistics  for  each  wine.  • Strong  searchable  technical  database.      

   

It   is   an   interactive   application   made   for   both   wine   lovers,   journalists,   traders,  sommeliers  etc.    Only  available  for  iPhone  at  this  moment.  Soon  for  iPad  and  Android.      

-­‐          App  can  be  personalized,  font,  background,  language.  -­‐ first  of  all  an  app  for  mapping.    -­‐ All  history  and  legal  data  for  all  climats.  Yields,  alc  %  etc.    -­‐ Origin  of  name  and  history  of  vineyard.    -­‐ What  producers  produce  from  the  given  vineyard.    

-­‐ Contact  details.  -­‐ All  wines  produced.  -­‐ Shows  correspondence  between  Lieu-­‐Dits  and  Climats.  -­‐ Under  all  climats/lieu-­‐dits:  list  of  producers.    -­‐ List  of  producers  where  you  can  buy  wines  directly  at  the  chateau.  -­‐ Presentation  of  wine  critics  specialising  in  Burgundy.  -­‐ List  of  recommended  literature  and  web  sites  /  blogs  -­‐ Mini  encyclopaedia  of  words,  terms,  definitions.    -­‐ Climatic  info.  -­‐ Technical  wine  info  (fermentation  etc).  -­‐ Searchable  database  with  tons  of  cross-­‐references.    -­‐ For  Grand  Cru  vineyards  ALL  producers  and  wines  included.    -­‐ Extraordinarily  detailed  info  on  grand  cru  vineyards  and  climats.    Really  a  complete  Burgundy  book  and  guide  digitalised.      Plan  to  complete  Burgundy  with  Chablis,  Cote  Chalonnaise  etc  before  other  regions  and  countries,  but  possible  with  a  more  global  future  of  the  app.    

         

           

 Day  2,  Saturday  the  7th  November    SEMINAR  1:  Round  table.  Great  wine  and  the  digital  revolution      Antonio   Galloni   (Vinous),   Eric   Levine   (Cellartracker),   Severine   Bonnie   (Malartic  Lagraviere),   Paul   Roberts   (Colgin),   Patrick     Bernard   (Millesima),   Olivier   Duha  (Webhelp).  Moderated  by  Pascal  Cagni  (former  CEO  of  Apple  Europe).    Intro   by   Francois:   The   world   of   wine   is   changing   with   the   new   tools   of  communication.  How  does  it  affect  us  and  how  do  best  possibly  adapt  to  benefit  from  the  innovation?      Severine  Bonnie:  Small   family   owned   group,   originally   from   Belgium.   Bought   Malartic   Lagraviere.  Then   founded   DiamAndes   and   bought   Gazin   Rocquencourt.   Increased   focus   on  digital  communication.  Pioneering  at  re-­‐wamping  web  sites  for  new  tablets/phones.  Social   media   as   part   of   communication.   (Facebook,   Twitter,   Weibo,   etc)   Chinese  person   dedicated   to   control  Weibo.   Family   has   always   focused   on   communication  and  uses  very  little  paper-­‐based  advertising.    Communication   is  done  separately  and  differently   for  all  3  properties  according   to  strategies  and  markets.      

   Paul  Roberts:    Colgin’s  23  years  of  history.  Unique   focus  on  hillside  single  vineyards  with  distinct  identity.  Freshness,  structure  and  Napa  fingerprint.  The  possibility  of  selling  direct:  

2/3  sold  as  futures  directly  to  end  consumers  in  22  different  countries.  1/3  is  sold  through  traditional  distribution  around  the  world.  The  direct  sales  create  an  opportunity  to  communicate  direct  with  most  customers  twice  a  year  and   this   creates   loyalty.  But  how  do  you   stay   relevant   to  your   trade  as  a  small  producer?  By  working  as  direct  as  possible,  also  with   trade   to  ensure   that  Colgin  as  brand   is   communicated  as  optimal   as  possible.  Large   investment   in   the   digital   platform/univers/world   has   been   done.   Web-­‐presence  is  very  strong.  Social  media:  high  focus  on  how  to  ensure  communication  in  the  right  way.  How  do  you  translate  philosophy  into  social  media?  Matching  style  of  wine/property  with  marketing.  Use  of  visual  material  more  than  words  to  show  the  “romance”  of  what  they  do.      Patrick  Bernard:  1993  he  founded  Millesima.  Not  a  background  within  the  wine  industry.    Basics:    Based  on  marketing  and  not  normal  commercial  approach.    Ensuring  top  quality  and  provenance.    Bought  directly  from  estates.    Mailing   lists  and  catalogues,   internet   site.  Problem   is   that  digital   communication   is  easily  “cold”.  Therefore  they  have  female  sales  representative  to  handle  male  French  customers  and  in  the  UK  men  handling  female  buyers.  Adapting  sales  initiates  to  the  given  countries/buyer  patterns.    Started  with  only  Bordeaux,  then  adding  Champagne  and  Burgundy.    1997  crucial  year  =  first  website.    Within  6  months  =  6  websites,  6  countries,  (even  48  states  in  the  US).    Today   a   total   of   16  websites.   Each   3rd   year   they   discard/re-­‐vamp   one  website   to  remain  up  to  date.    Trader;  but  also  media/communication.  Internet  allows  opening  globally.    3  million  visitors  online/year,  but  always  combined  with  more  personal  sales.    80%  internet,  20%  personal.    Lots  of  contact/sales  via  FB.  24.million  interactions  via  FB.    90.000  customers  in  120  countries.    High  focus  on  customer  satisfaction  even  when  online  sales.      Eric  Levine:    Background   at   Microsoft   Office.   (He   developed   the   “report   a   problem”/crash   for  Office  to  gather  data  and  eliminate  crashes)    Went  on  a  trip  to  Tuscany:  eye-­‐opener  for  wine.    2003:  started  collecting  wine.  Kept  in  an  excel  file.    Wanted  to  make  better  order   in  his  cellar  and  tasting  notes   to  keep  track  of  wines  tasted.    He  created  his  own  database  on  the  web  for  private  use.  2  friends  wanted  to  use  it  as  well  =  business  idea  was  born.    CORE:  Gathering  voices  and  opinions.    Cellartracker:  tool  to  let  a  collector  catalogue  their  cellars.    Today  400.000  users.  63mil  bottles  tracked  totally.    Any  size  of  collectors.    Choice  to  share  reviews  of  wines  if  you  want.  5  mil  wine  reviews  2015.      

There  is  a  continued  growth  of  wine  related,  specialized  tools  and  also  digital   communication   in   general.   People   connecting   to   share/get  information  and  to  buy  and  sell.      Antonio  Galloni:    Early  exposure  to  wine  as  a  part  of  a  meal,  but  also  to  truly  great  wine  as  his  parents  had  a  wine  store  selling  Bordeaux/Italian  wines.    He  was  early  drawn  by  the  complexity  of  wine  world  and  had  a  wish  to  understand  and  learn  all  with  a  perpetual  focus  on  open-­‐mindedness.  (Living  by  the  motto  from  his  music  teacher:  “You  must  listen  to  music  you  do  not  like  one  day  a  week”).    Looking   for  quality   everywhere.  Great  wine   can  be  produced  everywhere.   Looking  for  the  pinnacle  across  styles.  “Quality  is  vertical,  excellence  is  horizontal.”      He  went   into   finance   to  get  a  real   job  and  was  re-­‐located   to   Italy  where  he  started  tasting/taking  notes.  Soon  friends  started  asking  to  read  his  notes.    Went  to  business  school  at  MIT.  (Contacts  from  there  is  behind  Vinous)    

• 2004  first  newsletter.    “The  Piedmont  Report”.  • Parker  offered  him  a  job  at  WA  • Left  WA  to  start  Vinous  2,5  years  ago.    • Bought  Tanzer.    • Today:  Paying  subscribers  in  80  countries.  • Mapping  project  with  Google.    • 16  employees.    • Partnership  with  Wine  Searcher  and  Cellartracker.  • High   investment   in   keeping   the   digital   level   up   to   absolutely   newest  

technology.    • App  on  the  way.      

 

 Olivier  Duha:  Running   a   company   that   helps   companies/brands   with   their   web  presence.  You  can  no  longer  lie  to  your  consumer.    Internet  =  transparency.    You  need  to  keep  customers  happy.  They  can  easily  destroy  your  image.    Today  a  highly  increasing  investment  in  social  media  across  industries.    Communication  is  publically  visual.  (FB,  Twitter  etc  )    We  have  passed  to  remote  contacts  (bank,  post-­‐office  etc)    Apple   as   example:   incredible   customer   in   service   in   shops.   Online   store   is   highly  different  =  cold.    This  will  change;  adding  personal  “warm”  service  online.    NB.  Actually  15%  of  all   transactions  on  Amazon  require  personal  contact.  This  will  have  to  be  increased  to  maybe  45%  or  more.    We  need  to  personalize  the  digital  world.  Consumers  want  the  combination  of  the  2.    Vivino   as   example.   Empowering   wine   consumers   to   share   their   thoughts   through  “personal”   recommendations.   Newly   added   purchasing   function   so   you   can   follow  the   entire   value   chain.   There   is   however   a   lack   of   “certification”   of   points   and  opinions.  How  can  we  trust  others  assessment?  Need  for  “Certified  wine  amateurs”;  a  global  panel  of  trustworthy  tasters/  communicator.  Comment:  Parker   score  correlates  with  average  30  Vivino  users,   so  how  needed   is  this  kind  of  certification  at  all?      Private  sales  –  more  direct,  more  open,  more  personal  communication.    The  consumer  can  become  ambassador.    The   power   of   the   consumer   is   increasing.   We   can   do   most   ourselves.   How   do  companies  handle  this?    High  importance  of  maintaining  value  digitally.    Example:   The   reason   Amazon   is   not   making   money   is   that   people   do   not   love  Amazon,  people   love  Google  and  most   traffic   to  Amazon  goes  via  Google   searching  for  a  given  product.        Pascal:  Massification,  globalization,  emerging  markets.  How  do  we  reach  out?    We  are  entering  the  bronze  age  of  the  Internet.    11,5  mil  apps  existing  today.  300.000  labels  scanned  a  day  on  Vivino.  (500.000  users)  How  do  we  monetize  informative  apps?  (Purchasing  options  on  apps  like  Vivino)    Severine:  (Why  do  they  not  work  directly  in  Bordeaux?)  In   BDX   working   through   trade,   fixed   existing   system.   Distributors   with   long-­‐term  loyal  customers.    In  Argentina  more  direct.  Adapting  sales  channels  to  markets.      Paul:  (Why  do  they  focus  on  direct  sales?).  In  the  beginning  they  had  very  little  wine,  making  them  not  interesting  for  a  distributor.  Hands-­‐on  sales  via  phone/fax.  Today  more  Internet  based.    Individual  customers:  privates,  restaurants  and  top  retailers.  They  DO  work  with  the  traditional  trade  to  build  brand  and  awareness,  but  want  to  have  the  direct  contact  to  all  customers,  globally.  One-­‐on-­‐one  customer  contact  ensures  loyalty.  Financially  

more  viable  to  sell  directly  as  margin  is  higher  for  the  producer,  but  the  trade  is  an  absolute  key  to  remain  relevant  globally.  Use  digital  strategy  in  combination  with  the  trade  to  create  image.    Multichannel  approach.  (Omni-­‐channel)      Eric:   The   majesty   of   wine   is   its   incredible   diversity.   The   challenge   is   also   its  diversity/complexity.  Can  seem  scary.    Having  quality  filters  when  creating  and  sharing  information  is  highly  important.      Pascal:  Do  some  people  only  look  for  info  or  both  info  &  purchase?  Why  doesn’t  e.g.  Vinous  also  offer  sales  of  wine  (huge  market)?      Antonio:   Vinous   as   defensive   business.   Stabile,   sustainable   safe   cash-­‐flow.   90%  renewable  subscriptions.    Total   independence,  therefore  no  ads  nor  sales  of  wine.  That   is  the  reason  for  NOT  wanting  to  sell  wines.  Focusing  on  growth  in  different  and  more  sustainable  way.      Producers   wanting   to   take   control   and   severity   of   own   brand.   Getting   closer   to  consumer,   knowing   their   customers  better.  Therefore  direct   and/or   recommended  sales  are  increasing.      

   Antonio:   Latour  bought  Araujo   to  get  a   channel   to   sell  direct.    DRC  sells  direct;   as  customer  you  sign  an  agreement  that  you  will  not  resell.    You  MUST  know  who  your  end-­‐consumer  is  to  be  able  to  do  this.      -­‐   Vinous   also  want   to   be   close   to   subscribers.   Post   something  new  valuable   every  day.  A  digital  eco-­‐system.  A  digital  value-­‐chain  of  information.  “My  dream  is  to  walk  

into   a   great   restaurant   and   see   a   great   bottle   of  wine   on   each   table”.    This  should  be  our  common  goal.    We  should  remove  mysticism  about  wine.  Make  it  more  approachable.    There   is   no   competition   between   apps/   etc.   They   compliment   each-­‐other.    Think  about  the  big  picture.      Pascal:  Publishing  business  like  Vogue  are  now  interested  in  creating  a  marketplace.  They  reach  500mil  readers,  they  can  offer  any  brand  featured  a  great  direct  access  to  consumers.  Wish  to  start  selling  to  readers.    

 Patrick:  Theory  of  archipelagos.  Remember;  BDX  17th/18th  century   trading  system  set-­‐up.   70-­‐80%  production   is   sold   on   one   day.   (total   of   500   traders).   It   is   a   really  efficient  system,  a  strong  set-­‐up  that  is  on  the  way  out  of  3  hard  years  with  vintage  2015  soon  to  be  out.  –It  is  difficult  to  be  good  at  both  producing  and  selling.  You  have  to  create  partnerships  and  do  what  you  are  best  at.    This  creates  a  need  for  the  trade.    Consumers  traditionally  did  not  accept  recommendations  from  traders/producers  as  its  too  direct  and  impartial.  There  is  a  lack  of  credibility  when  pushing  products.    We  should  not  mix  the  roles.  Producer,  trader,  journalist  =  separate.    Using   friends   recommendations   is   the  most   reliable   source   for  most   (FaceBook   is  today’s  way  of  doing  this)  Internet  is  creating  transparency  globally  for  pricing.      Pascal:  “map”  /  value  chain  is  becoming  more  complex  with  the  blogosphere/social  media.    

 Olivier:  we   can  easily  process   the   information  we  need.  Personalized   information.  This  is  key  for  marketing.  Empowering  any  consumer.  Personalization  in  marketing  enables  to  think  before  the  consumer.    Accumulate  data/knowhow  about  your  consumers.    Predictive  marketing.    Work  in  advance  of  the  consumer  to  be  able  to  offer  him/her  the  right  thing  at  the  right  moment.      Pascal:   Shared   economy:   could   this   apply   to   private   cellars   and  producers?   If   you  have  wines/bottles/overstock  that  you  wish  to  sell…    Eric;  has  been  tried  without  success.      Patrick:  no  threat  from  “re-­‐sellers”  as  provenance  is  key.  We  should  never  buy  from  customer’s   cellars.  Wine   should   not   be   object   of   speculation.   Parker   created   this…  Wine  is  made  to  be  drunk  (and  pissed)…  This  allows  us  to  open  a  second  bottle  and  ensure     a   healthy  market   place.    Wine   is   to   be   shared  with   a   story.   All   good  with  technological  advances,  but  its  still  wine  we  are  dealing  with.          Pascal/Olivier  concept  of  subscriptions.  Example  of  value  added  Internet  sales:    Monthly  packages  of  wine,  sent  out.  You  can  select  your  price  level  and  subscribe  to  monthly   cases   of   often   unknown,   smaller   wines.   Helping   producers   sell   and  consumers  to  discover  new  wines.  Ease  to  market  on  Internet.  Adding  value  to  sale  

for   both   producer   and   consumer.   (You  pay   a   subscription   fee   to   have  access  to  these  offers)      Paul:   Internet   has   changed   trade.   Before   you   “subscribed”   to   a   given  retailer  you  trusted.  You  trusted  his  advice.  Scalability  is  de-­‐facto  to  all  we  do.    Not   about  making  more  but  making  better   and  deeper   business   and   relationships.  You  are  much  stronger  if  your  sales  do  not  depend  of  points/ratings  but  on  loyalty.    We  use  digital  technology  to  better  communicate  what  we  do  and  to  sell  more  wine.      Pascal:  our  abilities   to  reach  out   into   the  market  have  (and  are)  exploding.  Future  will  continue.  We  can  reach  out  directly  to  a  very  larger  customer  base.      Q:  (to  Patrick):  how  do  you  ensure  provenance  and  traceability?    A:  Traceability  is  to  fight  fraud.  There’s  lot  of  new  ways  to  ensure  provenance.  Chips,  numbers,   etc.   “eProvenance”,   but   they   are   expensive   to   apply.   It   is   however  interesting  as  it  enables  to  track  both  temp  and  position  of  bottle.  It  could  be  a  good  way  to  keep  in  contact  with  end  customer  and  also  know  more  about  them.      Pascal:   New   less   expensive   technology   is   soon   there   to   solve   this.   Problem   is  currently  that  these  chips  require  energy  to  gather  and  store  data  over  time.      Severine:  eProvenance  is  too  expensive.  Adding  3-­‐4€/bottle  and  only  viable  for  very  expensive  wines.      

   Francois:   huge   problem   today   of   knowing  where   your   expensive   bottle   has   been  traded  and  how  its  been  stored.  Especially  with  world  opening  op  and  more  wines  

being   traded   internationally.     We   need   and   want   a   guarantee   when  buying  expensive/rare/old  bottles.      Pernod  Ricard  :  All  their  products  sent  to  Asia  the  past  years  are  traced.    Note:  We  are  here  only   speaking  about   the  elite  of   the  wine  world.  The  world  is  more  segmented  than  this.   It’s  not  only  about  personalizing  relations  with  one  single  customer,  but  also  doing  this  on  a  larger  scale  using  modern  technology.      Olivier:  Not  “one”  uniform  market.  A  huge  variety  of  wines  sold  and  ways  of  selling  in  totally  different  markets.  Each  a  very  different  set-­‐up  depending  on  the  margin  of  wine  allowing  you  to  make  different  strategies  and  choices.    

 Q:   Internet  opens   for  global   trade  of  wine  and  when  wine   travels   it   looses  quality.  Fatal  for  wine?  A:   (Pascal)  you  CAN  transport   in  a  good  way.  For  wines  at  a  certain   level  you  can  allow  yourself  to  guarantee  good  and  safe  shipment.      Ivanhoe   Johnson:   you   can   sell  GOOD  and  quality   ensured  wine   from  a   chateau   to  China,  what  is  NOT  good  when  bottles  circulate  the  world  several  times.      Francois:  When  you  buy  on  actions/brokers  you  take  a  risk.  But  sometimes  you  can  only  find  the  wished  bottle  there…    If  you  want  guarantee,  then  buy  direct.      Internet:  no  regulation  Auctions  sales:  some  regulation,  some  guarantee.  (But  many  sellers  want  to  remain  anonymous)    

     

SEMINAR   2:   From   the   Universe   to   the   Planck  Wall:   Etienne   Klein   and   Brian  Schmidt    Brian  Schmidt:      • Light  travel  from  the  moon  to  the  earth:  1,5  sec.  • The  Sun  is  8  light  minutes  from  Earth,  weights  1  mil  tons  more  than  Earth  • Alfa  Centauri  is  the  closest  star  to  us.  4,3  light  years  away.    • The  universe  is  full  of  lot  of  empty  space.  That’s  why  we  call  it  space.    • Our  small  galaxy  spreads  over  100.000  light  years  • There  are  20.000  galaxies  in  total.    • There  are  more  stars  in  the  visual  universe  than  grains  of  sand  on  Earth.  • 13,8  billion  year   is   the  max  we   can   see  back.  ….  Universe  was  born  by   the  BIG  

BANG.  • Distances  in  space  are  measured  out  by  intensity  of  light.    • When  light  is  stretched  it  becomes  red.  (Just  like  sounds)  • The  further  the  faster  the  motion  away.    Everything  moves  fast  away  from  us.    • The  universe  seems  to  be  expanding  • Hubble’s  law:  the  further  the  faster.    

• If  universe  is  expanding  now,  before  it  was  more  concentrated.  To  a  point   where   there   was   too  much   concentration   and   energy   =   BIG  BANG:    

• You  run  the  universe  in  reverse  =  you  get  the  time  line.  But  gravity  is  slowing  things  down.    

• Result  from  studies  the  universe  is  14.000  billion  years  old.    • Will   the   universe   exist   forever?   Or   start   reversing   again?   Finally   turning   into  

another  Big  Bang…  • Measuring  what   is  happening  now:  Continuous  expansion  where  gravity  cannot  

stop  it  or  slowing  down  and  turning  into  another  big  bang?    

   WHITE  DWARFS/SUPERNOVAS:  • When  one  star  collapses  it  gives  material  to  another  star.    • When   that   star   reaches   1,3   point   mass   of   its   “mother”   star   it   explodes   =  

Supernova  • Usually  takes  44  days  • Earth  is  created  this  way.    • Supernovas  are  rare.  Only  appears  every  some  100  years,    • We  can  see  500.000  light-­‐years  back  in  history  to  before  Earth  was  formed.      Results  of  recent  studies:  Gravity  is  speeding  up  the  expansion  of  the  universe  rather  then  slowing  it  down.    

 So  what  is  the  explanation?    Composition  of  the  Universe:    Dark  energy:  70%    Dark  matter:  25%  .    

What  we  know  =  atoms  only  5%  Science   is   about   making   predictions…   An   idea   that   has   proved   itself  through  time.      We  have  a  battle  of  the  future  of  the  universe  between  power  that  pulls  (gravity)  and  pushes  (dark  energy).  The  dark  energy  is  stronger.    This  is  creating  more  space  and  more  universe.    Unless  dark  energy  disappears  the  universe  will  expand  and  disappear…    Etienne  Klein:    Discovery  of  Brian   is  revolutionary  because   it   revealed  a  different  motion  between  atoms  than  usually  suspected.  We  used  to  think  that  dark  energy  rotated  gravity.    We  now  know  that  this  dark  energy  is  made  up  of  articles  we  do  not  know.    Only  5  %  particles  are  known.  Rest  is  unknown  matter.    Why  this  knowledge  is  important  to  trace  back  to  the  birth  of  the  universe?  400.000  first  years  after  the  big  bang  light  could  not  disperse.  It  was  just  too  dense.  Light   was   prisoner   within   the   matter   from   which   it   propagates   so   no   light   was  emitted  and  therefore  we  have  no  knowledge  of  this  period.    The   observable   period   starts   400.000   years   later   as   light   was   released   and  propagated.    In  general  we  can  still  see  this  electromagnetical  light  from  that  period,  but  how  do  we  find  out  what  happened  those  earlier  400.000  years  without  light?  The  real  physical  laws  of  physics  are  believed  not  to  change;  despite  no  light.  So  if  we  recreate  on  a  small  scale  a  model  of   the  universe  and  apply  the   laws  of  physics  we  should  be  able  to  see  what  happened  during  the  period  where  no  light  was  emitted.    

• Here  we  need  to  look  at  astro  particles  /particle  physics.  • The  Higgs   boson  (or  Higgs   particle)   is   a  particle  that   gives  mass  to   other  

particles.  It   is  part  of  the  Standard  Model  in  physics,  which  means  it   is  found  everywhere.   It   is   one   of   the   17   particles   in   the   Standard  Model.   The   Higgs  particle   is   a  boson.   Bosons   are   particles   responsible   for   all   physical   forces  except  gravity.   Scientists   do   not   yet   know  how   to   combine   gravity  with   the  Standard  Model.  

• We   have   weak   and   stronger   partical   atomic   forces.   These   are   attracted   by  gravity.  To  each  other  and  to  Earth.  

• This  is  related  to  Einstein’s  relativity  theory.    • If  you   identify   the  right  symmetry  you  know  the  explanation  of   interactions  

between  atoms.    There  are  often  disagreements  in  physics  and  maybe  our  lack  of  understanding  of  this  0  mass  is  not  important  as  to  Einstein:  no  mass  =  no  time.      Example:  When  girls  look  for  husbands  and  men  look  for  girls:  Girls  looks  for  men  to  become  husbands,  but  men  look  for  girls,  not  future  wives.    …  This  is  the  same  analogy  as  universe.                

   Mathematics  and  physics  do  not  correlate  when  energy  becomes  too  strong      Questions  as  to  if  the  Big  Bang  really  happened.  Does  the  universe  have  an  origin  or  not?  Was  there  a  time  where  there  was  nothing?  Has  the  universe  always  bee  there?      The   Big   Bang   and   the   earliest   beginning   of   the   universe   is   the   easiest   place   to  understand  the  basic  rules.  

• The  rules  upon  which  all  other  things  are  built.  All  biology.    Quantum  mechanics:  static    Relativity:  moving.      

   The   Big   Bang   might   be   the   transition   between   2   universes.   A   period   where   energy,  temperature  and  expansion  reached  “zero”  from  reduction,  before  expanding  again.      Purpose  of  experimental  physics  is  to  kills  ideas;  to  prove  what  ideas  are  facts  and  not.      We  are  long  way  away  from  having  the  theory  of  everything.  And  if  we  should  ever  reach  this   point   no   scientist   would   probably   ever   believe   this.   This   is   not   the   nature   of   a  scientist.      The   Universe   is   4   dimensional.   But   we   only   know   3   dimensions   plus   time.   So   the  universe   is   expanding   into   time.   Time   as   dimension?   There   may   even   be   more  dimensions….    

 Multiverse?  …  We  can  only  see  13,8  billion  years  back  (our  own  universe).  If  we  see  behind  this   there  are   infinite  possibilities.  At  best  as  we  can  tell  the  universe  is  flat  and  1000  bigger  than  we  can  see.    If   you  multiply   infinity  with   infinity  we   get   to   a   number   of   infinities   that  makes  everything  possible.    The   universe   is   probably   more   than   1000   times   bigger   than   we   can   see.   So   physics  change  into  philosophy.  Nothing  can  be  tested  nor  proved.    There  cannot  be  something  before  nothing  /  so  if  there  was  nothing  before  the  big  bang.  Was  there  a  time  where  there  was  nothing?  By  logic  you  cannot  create  something  out  of  nothing.      Q:  Do  scientists  believe  God  was  before  something  instead  of  nothing?    A:  Then  you  would  need  to  define  God  and  why  and  how…  In  a  Scientist’s  mind.      Did  physical  laws  exist  before  the  universe?  Or  did  the  laws  adapt  to  the  physics  of  the  universe.  How  does  laws  apply  and  connect  to  things?  How  are  they  created?    All  this  is  still  not  explained.      

   Texts:  ©  Marie  von  Ahm  Photos:  ©  Armand  Borlant