Vietnam

Minh City

p152

p311

Ho Chip233

Coast

p99Vietnam

p417

Siem Reap & theTemples of Angkor

(Cambodia)

p366Delta

VietnamCentral

Mekong

p287HighlandsSouthwest

Southeast

p54Hanoi

Northern

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Anna Kaminski, Jessica Lee,

Nick Ray, Benedict Walker

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Vietnam . . . . 4

Vietnam Map . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Vietnam’s Top 20 . . . . . . . 8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 18

First Time Vietnam . . . . . 20

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Month by Month . . . . . . . 25

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Vietnam Outdoors . . . . . 36

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Regions at a Glance . . . . 50

HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

NORTHERN VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 99Northeast Vietnam . . . . 102Ba Be National Park . . . . 102Con Son & Den Kiep Bac . . . . . . . . . . 103Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . 120Mong Cai & the Chinese Border . . . . . 122Northwest Vietnam . . . 127Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . 131Muong Lay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Lai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Ha Giang Province . . . . . . 148

CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . 152North-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Ninh Binh Province . . . . . 153Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . . . . . 162Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . 167South-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Dong Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Quang Tri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Bach Ma National Park . . 190

Lang Co Beach . . . . . . . . . 192Hai Van Pass & Tunnel . . . 193Ba Na Hill Resort . . . . . . . 193Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Around Danang . . . . . . . . . 199Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . .220My Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . 226Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

SOUTHEAST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 233Quang Ngai . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Around Quang Ngai . . . . . 236Quy Nhon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 243Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 245Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 263Phan Rang & Thap Cham . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Ninh Chu Beach . . . . . . . . 265Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Phan Thiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . 273Phan Thiet to Long Hai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Long Hai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 279

SOUTHWEST HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 287Dalat & Around . . . . . . . . . 289Ngoan Muc Pass . . . . . . . .298Cat Tien National Park . . . . . . . . . .298Lak Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300

PLAN YOUR TRIP

HU

YT

HO

AI/G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

HA GIANG PROVINCE P148

PE

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DA

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FLOWER HMONG PEOPLE, BAC HA P145

ON THE ROAD

Contents

Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . 301Around Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303Pleiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305Kon Tum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307

HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . .311Around Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . 359Cu Chi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362One Pillar Pagoda . . . . . . .364Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365

MEKONG DELTA . . . 366My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .368Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373Vinh Long . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376

Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379Soc Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385U-Minh Forest . . . . . . . . . . 387Rach Gia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . 389Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405Sam Mountain . . . . . . . . .409Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . . 411Cao Lanh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415

SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . .417Siem Reap . . . . . . . . . . . 418Temples of Angkor . . . . 426Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . .426Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . 427

Vietnam Today . . . . . . . 434

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436

People & Culture . . . . . 454

Arts & Architecture . . . 460

Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 464

Environment . . . . . . . . . 470

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 478

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 488

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 503

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 518

SURVIVAL GUIDE

BR

UN

O D

E HO

GU

ES/G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

HOI AN P203

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESVietnam Outdoors . . . . . 36

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . 43

Hue in 3D . . . . . . . . . . . . 180

Scenes of Vietnam . . . . 227

Angkor Wat in 3D . . . . . 428

Plan Your Trip

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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MYANMAR(BURMA)

LAOS

CAMBODIA

CHINA

THAILAND Hoi An

Ho Chi Minh City(Saigon)

HANOI

S O U T HC H I N A

S E AMy Son

Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP

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#•

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Doc Let Beach

#•

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Itineraries

From South to North

Making the most of Vietnam’s spectacular coastline, this route hugs the shore and is bookended by the country’s two greatest cities. You’ll have ample opportunity to indulge in some serious beach time, and be able to hit the cultural sights. Consider taking an internal flight or two to save time.

The adventure begins in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). Spend two days hitting the mar-kets, browsing museums and eating some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a daytrip

to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi Tunnels.

Then it’s a plane, train or bus trip up the coast to the big brash resort of Nha Trang for a couple of days by the sea. Party people will love the city’s hedonistic bar scene, while spa lovers can indulge in a gooey, blissful session in one of the area’s three mud bath resorts. Nha Trang’s beach is a fine one, but for a less-developed base head up to the largely-undeveloped coastline to the north, where you’ll find Doc Let Beach, or south to the near-infinite sands of Bai Dai beach.

2 WEEKS

28

Halong Bay (p107)

Cultured charmer and culinary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop. This town certainly warrants three days, such is its allure. Spend a couple of days enjoy-ing Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring the town’s temples, pagodas and museums, and feasting on delectable Central Viet-namese cuisine. Consider a motorbike trip around the town’s rural hinterland, or an excursion to the terrific Cham ruins of My Son. Then it’s on to the old imperial capi-tal of Hue for a night to explore its citadel, tombs and pagodas. From here head up to the truly remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the world’s greatest

caving region, with towering limestone mountains and cobalt jungle rivers.

Next it’s a long journey by road or train towards Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting the ocean. Budget for at least a couple of days in Hanoi to sample its evocative Old Quarter and to view the city’s elegant architecture and memorable museums. Make the most of your last day, perhaps munching street food and sampling bia hoi (draught beer).

PLAN YO

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29

#

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#•

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Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a land of brooding mountains, overwhelming beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with light traffic and breathtaking views, though, with a patient attitude, most of the region can be tackled by public transport.

Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to ethnic minority life. Northwest, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical over-night stop is Son La.

Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien Phu, a name that resonates with history as it was here that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Tour the military sights and impres-sive new museum then continue north through stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass.

Sapa is the premier destination in the north-west, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), and an amazing array of minority peoples. Explore the area on two feet or two wheels for around four days before heading to Bac Ha for three nights to experience the best of the region’s markets. Most colourful are the Flower Hmong people.

From Bac Ha, move east to Ha Giang prov-ince, taking it slowly through stunning scenery and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations like the Lung Cu flag tower and the Vuong Palace from Dong Van. Onwards towards the vertiginous Mai Pi Leng Pass and Meo Vac, there’s no pub-lic transport (so you’ll need to hire a xe om (mo-torbike taxi) or car). The route then loops down to the riverside junction town of Bao Lac.

Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about three nights around Ba Be, staying at local Tay ethnic minority homestays, and exploring the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be travel back to Cao Bang for the trip back south to Hanoi.

3 WEEKS Northern Mountains

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Top: Dien Bien Phu (p131)

Bottom: Flower Hmong women at Bac Ha Market (p145)

31PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

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This itinerary takes in a lovely offshore island, the nation’s main watersport centre and a waterworld of floating villages. If tropical sunsets and white-sand beaches are high on your agenda it’s probably best not to plan this trip during the southern rainy season. There’s frequent public transport to virtually all the main centres.

After a couple of days enjoying the urban de-lights and compelling energy of HCMC, head into the Mekong Delta, stopping at Ben Tre to explore canal-side lanes by bike and islands by boat. Then hop on board a cargo ship for a slow, scenic journey to Tra Vinh and take in the town’s colourful pagodas. Next it’s a short trip to Can Tho where it’s worth lingering a couple of days to visit the bustling floating markets, the city museum and a temple or two. Further north, by the Cambodian border, Chau Doc is surrounded by beautiful countryside, begging for two-wheeled trips. Head to Phu Quoc Island for three days of well-earned beachtime on some of Vietnam’s best sandy shores.

From Phu Quoc, fly (or bus it) back to HCMC, then head north into the Southcentral High-lands via a night in Cat Tien National Park, home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful bird-life. Next up it’s the romantic hill station of Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the opportunity to get stuck into some adventure sports like canyoning, mountain biking or kayaking.

The road trip from Dalat down to Mui Ne is one of the nation’s finest, negotiating highland ridges and plunging through valleys and pine forests; it’s ideally done on the back of a motor-bike (consider hiring an Easy Rider). You can then rest up by the beach in Mui Ne for two or three days, a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back vibe – or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some crazy kitesurf-ing or a sailing course.

Round the trip off in style with a night in HCMC, perhaps with an ale or two at the Paster Street Brewing Company and dining out some-where really special like the Racha Room.

2 WEEKS Deep South

Top: Dinh Cau Beach, Phu Quoc Island (p389)

Bottom: Temple in Tra Vinh (p373)

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BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

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AirportBorder crossingBus

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LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

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Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

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Sight (Building)

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DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

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Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Nick Ray Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Wat-ford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and children, Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guide-books on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam books, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and

manager for the world of television and film, including everything from Tomb Raider to Top Gear. Motorbikes are a part-time passion and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels.

Benedict Walker Hanoi Currently hanging by the beach near his Mum, in hometown Newcastle (Australia), Ben is living his dreams, travelling the world for LP. So far, Ben has contributed to Lonley Planet’s Japan, Canada, Florida, Australia and Germany guidebooks. This is his first time writing for the Vietnam team. Otherwise, he’s written and directed a play, toured Australia managing travel for rock stars and is an avid photographer toying with his original craft of filmmaking. He’s an advo-

cate of following your dreams – they can come true. For updates, see www.wordsandjourneys.com.

Contributing Authors Andrea Nyugen wrote the Regional Specialities content in the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter. Andrea is the acclaimed author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen and Asian Tofu. She also publishes Vietworldkitchen.com.

Read more about Nick at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nickjray

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98313th edition – August 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 872 3© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Iain Stewart Coordinating Writer, Southeast Coast Iain Stewart has been visiting Vietnam since 1991 and has explored virtually every province in the country over the years. This is the fourth edition of Lonely Planet Vietnam he’s contributed to and the third as co-ordinating writer. Travelling the highway between Vung Tau and Tam Hai was some road (and rail) trip, taking in the full spectrum of Vietnam’s stunning coastal scenery and numerous memorable meals. Iain also wrote the

Plan and Understand chapters, Survival Guide and the Scenes of Vietnam colour section.

Brett Atkinson Central Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City For more than 20 years, Brett has been explor-ing one of his favourite countries, and his latest Vietnam sojourn spanned street food and history in Hue and Hoi An, the thrilling cave systems of Phong Nha, and the irresistible urban buzz of Ho Chi Minh City. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand and has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and

upcoming travels. Brett also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local and the Food & Drink chapters.

Anna Kaminski Southwest Highlands, Mekong Delta A big fan of two-wheeled travel, Anna fell hard for the picturesque lanes of the Mekong Delta and the hills of the South-west Highlands in years past and remains smitten. Given the food, the friendly locals, and ample indigenous culture, there’s little surprise that southern Viet-nam remains one of her favourite destinations. Having previously lived in and backpacked all over Southeast Asia, on this occasion Anna explored the Delta’s

forgotten corners and motorbiked part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Anna tweets at @ACKaminski.

Jessica Lee Northern Vietnam Jessica first came to Vietnam in the late 90’s and has visited several times since then. This trip saw her road-tripping the winding highways of the northwest, up into the mountains of Ha Giang province, and then down to the bustle of Halong Bay – along the way, drinking more caphe sua da than is probably recommended. When she’s not travelling, Jess lives in the Middle East, and has also contributed to Lonely Planet’s guidebooks to Turkey, Egypt and Cambodia.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Read more about Jessica at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/jessicalee1

Read more about Brett at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brettatkinson

Read more about Stewart at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stewpot

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