7/30/2019 Vermiculture Part 2

1/2

Vermicomposting Part 2

This is a follow-up article on how to establish a worm bin for composting of food scraps.

The Activity: The care and feeding of red worms.

Why: Red worms (Lumbricus rebellious, and Eugenia fetid) are great composters. By having a small worm bin in

your home you can turn your non-greasy kitchen scraps into vermicompost (worm castings or waste) for your

garden.

The project can be educational for

children and adults alike. It will

reduce the amount of food your

family contributes to the landfill.

Vermicompost is a unique soil

amendment. It poses no threat of

nitrogen burn damage even to

potted plants because the nitrogen

it contains has a slow release

characteristic due to a mucous

coating which occurs naturally. It is

rich in water soluble nutrients,

contains trace elements, enzymes and beneficial organisms. Unlike manure based products it is not high in

salts and has a neutral ph.

Vermicompost is not used widely because it is expensive to buy. If you produce your own, you not only get a

really good product, but save a bit of money too. In about 4 months you should be ready to harvest the

castings for use as compost. The worms will go back into the bin along with new bedding and the process can

continue.

How: Once you have constructed or purchased your worm bin and purchased your worms, you can preparethe bedding for your worms. (For worm bin information see last weeks article, or go to

http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/easywormbin.htmfor a cheap, easy plan.)

Peat moss, sawdust, shredded newspaper or shredded corrugated cardboard are ideal bedding options. The

bedding must be moistened. The paper or cardboard should be moistened to about 50-75% water by weight.

You can weigh the bedding and then add two to three times that weight in water. Or just add the water slowly

till the bedding has a moisture content resembling a damp sponge. Resist the urge to use materials from the

http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/easywormbin.htmhttp://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/easywormbin.htmhttp://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/easywormbin.htm

7/30/2019 Vermiculture Part 2

2/2

outdoors (such as dry leaves). Even though these might be suitable for the worms, you may be introducing

pest species to your bin.

Avoid using other paper products that have printing on them, newspapers are printed with non toxic soy ink,

other publications use different inks which might be harmful to the worms. The bedding should be about 8

deep in the bin. Once the bedding is in place put the worms in the bin and leave the lid off for about one hour.

The light will cause the worms to burrow into the bedding during that time. After that leave the lid on except

when you are working in the bin.

Worms are generally fed once a week. Push aside the bedding to make a hole and add the food scraps in the

hole. The food should be added to a different spot in the bin each week. Fruit and vegetable scraps are good

additions, as are coffee grounds and tea leaves. Egg shells (rinsed) and even stale or moldy bread can be

added. Do not add citrus products, the worms may tolerate small amounts of citrus, but citrus can lower the

pH (make it too acidic) and that may damage the worms.

If your scraps are in large pieces consider a rough chop in the food processor or with a knife before adding the

scraps to the bin. Chopping will make the decomposition process go more quickly. Do not add greasy or oily

foods, dairy products, meat or fish. While the worms are capable of digesting these foods, they will likely turn

rancid before composting completely, causing unpleasant odors, and possibly attracting pests.

Monitor the worm bin regularly to make sure the worms are actively working on the food. If the bin becomes

smelly and food is not being composted by the worms there may be too much food, or the bin may be too

acid. Try removing some of the food and hold off feeding for a bit.

Maintain the bin in a temperature range between 50 and 75F. This is the temperature in which the worms

will be most active and productive.

Be sure to drain the bin of compost tea on a regular basis. Use that to water your houseplants.

If the bedding starts to dry out, add additional moisture slowly. The worms can drown if too much liquid

accumulates. Do not replenish the bedding. It will decompose and become part of the vermicompost. Bedding

is replaced after harvesting. Look for an article later this year about methods for harvesting the vermicompost.

The worm population can double in 90 days if it is healthy. You should be able to gradually introduce larger

quantities of food as the number of worms increases.

When: Whenever you have the time and the desire. Order your worms and get your bin ready.

Whats Needed:A worm bin, red worms, shredded newspaper or cardboard, food scraps, a scale (optional),

water and a sense of adventure.

When you have questions, CSU has research based answers. Get answers to your horticultural questions by

calling the Master Gardener Volunteer Help Desk at 520-7684 or emailing CSUmg2@elpasoco.com. Visit:http://elpasoco.colostate.edu/hort/hort-bloom.shtmlfor other articles written by Colorado Master Gardeners.

Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and El Paso County Extension Programs are available to all

without discrimination.

mailto:CSUmg2@elpasoco.comhttp://elpasoco.colostate.edu/hort/hort-bloom.shtmlhttp://elpasoco.colostate.edu/hort/hort-bloom.shtmlhttp://elpasoco.colostate.edu/hort/hort-bloom.shtmlmailto:CSUmg2@elpasoco.com