Venice - Citibank Singapore · P3 / LUXE VENICE P1 /LUPP XEVNPXEVN ICThP1 eculL ICThPIUtle...

Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Fab vs. Drab LUXE ItinerariesP1 / LUXE VENICE

Citi PrestigeSM

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Venice

VENTUrE BEyONd PIAZZA sAN MArCO ANd yOU’LL BE HANdsOMELy rEWArdEd

Escaping the leisure-suited hordes and

branded billboards on this romantic

lagoon jewel can be difficult, but venture

beyond Piazza san Marco into the city’s

winding waterways and labyrinthine alleys

and you’ll be handsomely rewarded.

La serenissima’s richly brocaded sleeve

hides a myriad of historic wonders and

artisanal gems, and though visitors to

the city far outweigh born and bred

Venetians, even the most hardened of

travelers can’t help but be captivated by

their first glimpse of this most iconic of

cities. Venice is made up of six sestieri

(quarters), with the Grand Canal weaving

through in an inverted ‘s’. Taking san

Marco as the center; fanning north to

east is Castello; south is dorsoduro, which

includes Giudecca (the isle further south),

west is santa Croce with train/bus termini

Piazzale roma in the western end, plus

san Polo with the rialto market, and

northwest is vibey Cannaregio.


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• April, May and October have the

best weather, but Venetians love

tourist-free January when it’s

foggy and wet one day and clear

the next, though many restaurants

and shops shut.

• Acqua Alta or ‘high water’ occurs

November-december so be sure

to bring your Pucci gumboots,

and prepare to be herded like

cattle throughout the peak

season March-November.

• Events to note include Carnival:

February/March for mask and

costume hell; Biennales: June-

November, cool n’ creative with Art

and Architecture on alternate years;

Film Festival: september for red

carpet glam / http://labiennale.org.

• Marco Polo Airport to town: 1.5 hrs

/ €13 by Alilaguna ferry - scenic but

slow, all (bar orange and yellow)

lines stop at san Marco (Giardinetti);

water taxi: 20-30 mins / €100 or

€120 for the scenic route (the

absolute best way to arrive for your

first time in Venice), or €30 for a

shared scenic route ride

http://bucintoroviaggi.com; 20 mins

Blah blah/ €3 or 30 mins / €2.50 by ATVO

airport bus to Piazzale roma, then

connect to water buses (vaporetti).

• Transport: Make like a Venetian and

work those gams by jumping on the

vaporetti (buy a pass - 24/48/72 hr

or 7-day); water taxis are spiffy but

charge like a wounded bull (> €80);

gondolas are purely for sightseeing,

but their cousin the traghetto is

handy for crossing the Grand Canal.

• Many hotel rooms in Venice

look onto a wall and have either

extortionate internet rates or

no connection at all, so do check

ahead if either of these issues is

critical for you.

• Calle, salizada, ramo and rio

are streets (some look like mere

alleys), Ponte is bridge, Campo

and Campiello (C.llo) are squares

and Fondamenta (F.ta) is a street

along a canal.

• street numbers are confusingly

assigned by sestieri, ask for the

street name, landmark or closest

Campo to be assured you’re in

the right district.

• Most shops open around 10am-7pm

Monday to saturday, close 3 hours

for lunch, all day sunday and around

december to January, except for

the most touristic places.

• Coffee etiquette: Caffè/espresso

is a single shot, doppio is two, and

milk in coffee (eg. cappuccino) after

midday shouts ‘turista!’.

• Aperitivi: A spritz con bitter or a

glass un’ombra of wine with cichetti

(think tapas) around 6.30pm is

vital to all Venetians.

• Public loos are €1.50 a wee, or you

can get a discounted daily pass (2

wees) or weekly pass (10 wees) at

http://www.veniceconnected.com

(no, we’re not kidding…).

• Italy’s international code is +39.

The area code for Venice is 041,

which must be dialled locally.

Mobiles start with 3.

• In emergencies, dial 113 for police,

118 for ambulance.


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Antonia Miletto is a graduate gemologist

from Venice, who has made New york her

home for fifteen years. Always looking

around the world to seek out the best

examples of the materials she loves:

amazing gemstones, the hardest woods,

acrylic resin and “occasional objects”

she has developed a distinctive line of

jewelry that includes rings, earrings,

necklaces, cuffs and more. The collection

is handcrafted and cast in eighteen-carat

gold by top craftsmen in Italy; some of

the pieces are one-of-a -kind. Her jewelry

works have been shown in selected stores

and private residences in the Us, and in

2007 she opened her own boutique in

the heart of Venice.

www.antoniamiletto.com

LUXE INsIdEr

Antonia Miletto / GEMOLOGIsT


Citi PrestigeSM

1) WHAT’s THE ONE THING EVEry VIsITOr TO VENICE MUsT dO ANd WHy?

Take a walk around midnight in Piazza

san Marco, looking at the magnificent

empty square and paying attention

to the midnight bell’s tone. The only

bell of the Campanile di Piazza san

Marco that survived the collapse of

the tower in 1902, it’s so special that

it has a name, the Marangona.

2) WHErE dO yOU rECOMMENd FrIENds sTAy WHEN IN VENICE?

I recommend Oltre il Giardino nearby

the Frari Basilica. It’s full of charm,

quiet and off the busy paths of the

city. It has just six rooms overlooking a

green area that is ideal for breakfast.

It’s family run by a Venetian friend.

www.oltreilgiardino-venezia.com

3) WHAT’s THE BEsT sOUVENIr TO BrING BACk FrOM VENICE ANd WHy?

From all the great traditional applied

arts of Venice, one of the few that still

remains is glass.

My favorite artist is:

Massimo Micheluzzi, his studio is at

Calle della Toletta / dorsoduro 1071 /

+39 41 5282190.

4) WHAT ArE 3 OF yOUr FAVOrITE rEsTAUrANTs ANd WHy? WHAT dIsHEs dO yOU OrdEr AT THEsE PLACEs?

Naranzaria - I love to sit outside

looking at the Grand Canal. Akira

is the chef’s name, row fish is the

must try. The wine from Vistorta

estate is also my favorite. Le Antiche

Carampane specialises in fresh fish.

Here I usually order “frittura mista

di pesce”, mixed fried fish from the

Adriatic. And lastly Al Covo where

everything is extremely good, my

favorite is cotoletta con patate fritte

veal cutlet with French fries.

www.naranzaria.it

www.antichecarampane.com

www.ristorantealcovo.com

5) WHAT’s THE BEsT LOCAL dELICACy IN VENICE, ANd WHy ANd WHErE Is IT WOrTH TryING?

The local delicacies are the cicchetti,

small salty bites to eat while having

an aperitif. From small meat or

fish balls, to baccala mantecato (a

cream of cod fish), to pieces of tasty

cheese or prosciutto over bread. The

creativity of the chef is essential,

and for me, the best cicchetti are

at Al Bottegon. It’s family run, and

everything is handmade by the lady

of the house, fantastic!

Fondamenta Maravegie / dorsoduro

992 / +39 41 5230034 / Mon-sat

6) WHErE dO yOU GO TO UNWINd ANd rELAX? WHAT MAkEs IT sPECIAL?

I love food, therefore the rialto

market and the area around it is the

place where I go to relax. Every day

fresh fruits, vegetables and fish arrive

from the mainland and are gracefully

displayed, though the fish market is of

course closed on Monday. The best are

the seasonal produce from Mazzorbo

Island, the garden of Venice. This is a

treat for all our senses. I find all my

delicacies at gourmet delicatessen

Antica drogheria Mascari and at the

cheese store Casa del Parmigiano.

www.imascari.com

www.aliani-casadelparmigiano.it

LUXE INsIdEr

Antonia Miletto / GEMOLOGIsT


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LUXE Loves

dE kAs

dining

Locavore lovers flock to this stunning

nursery and glasshouse restaurant

situated in the middle of Frankendael

Park, which serves solely organic,

locally sourced and homegrown fare.

Leave the growing to the green-

thumbed owner, and exchange that

garden rake for a knife and fork.

ALLA MAdONNA dining

Feeding generations of grateful

Venetians through the decades

with the best seafood the region

has to offer, the nine rooms of this

friendly, simply decorated trattoria

with its wooden beams and eclectic

artwork fairly buzz at lunch and

dinner with excited diners. The

seafood risotto is exemplary.

Calle de la Madonna / san Polo 594 /

+39 41 5223824 / lunch & dinner /

closed Wed, Jan, 2 weeks Aug

www.ristoranteallamadonna.com

I FIGLI dELLE sTELLE dining

Particularly in summer, when you can

dine on the few tables outside, it’s so

worth making the journey over the

lagoon to Giudecca for lunch or dinner

at this homely, but contemporary

osteria with its white and slate beach-

house vibe. Its waterfront position

means chilled lounging and great

views to compliment the robust,

flavorsome fare.

Fondamenta de la Croce / Giudecca 70-71

/ +39 41 5230004 / lunch & dinner daily

www.ifiglidellestelle.it

ANTICHE CArAMPANE dining

despite being situated not far

from the rialto, the city’s in-the-

know epicures love that this simple

timber trattoria is hard to find, and

that there’s ‘no pizza and no menù

turistico’, just plenty of flip-fresh

aquatic life. The mixed fried fish

frittura mista di pesceis such a treat.

rio Terà Carampane / san Polo 1911 /

+39 41 5240165 / lunch & dinner Tue-sat

/ closed 10 days Jan, 3 weeks Aug

www.antichecarampane.com


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LUXE Loves

UN MONdO dIVINO Bar

This little low-beamed, wine bar

in a converted butcher’s shop has

developed quite a following of both

locals and visitors for its delicious and

extensive range of cichetti and choice

labels, with over 40 wines offered by

the glass. In the summer months eat

and sup streetside.

salizada san Canciano / Cannaregio

5984/A / +39 41 5211093 / Tue-sun

BEVILACqUA shopping

some of these sumptuous damasks,

velvets, satins, taffetas and brocades

have found their way into the White

House and even the Vatican. Made

on original C.18th wooden looms,

they can also be woven to your own

design, or you can choose from their

delightful catalogue of over 3500

patterns, ranging from chinoiserie to

deco and even tiger stripes.

Campiello della Comare / santa Croce

1320 / +39 41 721566 / by appointment

only / or visit their retail outlet in Campo

di santa Maria del Giglio / sM 2520 /

+39 041 2410662 / Mon-sat /

www.luigi-bevilacqua.com

MAssIMO MICHELUZZI shopping

Venetian born Massimo’s much sought

after contemporary glass designs

range from chandeliers to vases and

decorative vessels, featuring flowing

forms and statement rich coloring,

while fusing old, traditional techniques

with modern aesthetics.

Calle della Toletta / dorsoduro 1071 /

+39 41 5282190 / closed sun-Mon

AL COVO dining

The Tuscan/American husband and wife

locavore team go wild with the Italian

seasons in their bucolic, two-roomed

nook well loved by statesiders. In

summer, try for one of the few alfresco

tables, and note that shorts, sandals

and sleeveless t-shirts are not tolerated

in the evening, hurrah!

Campiello de la Pescaria /

Castello 3968 / +39 41 5223812 /

lunch & dinner / closed Wed-Thu,

4 weeks dec-Jan

www.ristorantealcovo.com

BAr TErrAZZA Bar

Open from May to september, weather

permitting, this spacious rooftop terrace,

atop the danieli with its gorgeous

panoramic lagoon views, is a veritable

magnet for the city’s style and society

crowd, but arrive there late afternoon as

it closes irresponsibly early.

Hotel danieli / riva degli schiavoni /

Castello 4196 / +39 41 5226480

/ 3-7pm May-sep

www.danielihotelvenice.com

HArry’s dOLCI Bar

While the rest of the tourists are trying

to cram into Harry’s Bar and wondering

what all the fuss is about, you’ll be sitting

pretty at his other lesser-known and

frequented bar in Giudecca where you get

ravishing lagoon views and no inflated

prices. Make a night of it and eat here too,

or at I Figli delle stelle.

Fondamenta s. Biagio / Giudecca 773 /

+39 41 5224844 / noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm

Wed-Mon / Apr-Nov

www.cipriani.com


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LUXE LovesMUsEO dEL VETrO

Activities

Venice and its glass are so inextricably

linked in the common mind, and yet

so few people really understand the

ancient and alchemical processes it

takes to create such beauty. If your

interest extends to something more

than simply buying a piece of Murano

glass to take home, a visit here will

set you straight on just what the

artisans from as long ago as the C.1st

were capable of.

Fondamenta Giustian 8 / Murano /

+39 41 739 586 / 10am-5pm Nov-Mar,

10am-6pm Apr-Oct.

www.museovetro.visitmuve.it

PEGGy GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION

Activities

Peggy’s personal collection covering

European and American art of the first

half of the C.20th reads like a who’s

who of just about every stellar name

in the firmament. Housed in her own

canal-side palazzo in dorsoduro, you’ll

find seminal works from Picasso and

Giacometti to Mondrian, kandinsky

and Pollock, and there’s a natty café if

gallery-itis sets in.

Fondamenta Venier dei Leoni /

dd 704 / +39 41 2405411 /

10am-6pm Wed-Mony

www.guggenheim-venice.it

BAUEr IL PALAZZO

Accommodation

Venetian style and discreet opulence

at the mouth of the fabled Grand

Canal, with gourmet canalside de

Pisis, B-Bar for evening cocktails with

live music, and settimo Cielo the

7/F alfresco lounge and terrace with

grandstand views. Upgrade to a suite

if you can, but either way be sure to

arrange a room with a view. At these

prices, you don’t want to be looking

at a brick wall!

Campo s. Moisé / san Marco 1413/

d / +39 41 5207022

www.ilpalazzovenezia.com

PALAZZO BArBArIGO

Hotel

Once a C.16th palace, there’s little

wonder the stylista set love this

dark and smouldering siren with its

seductive black velvets, four poster

beds and signature sultry bar by the

canal. There are just 18 rooms, and no

restaurant, but it’s an easy walk to

the rialto and all the buzz you

could wish for.

ramo Pisani e Barbarigo /

san Polo 2765 / +39 41 740172

www.palazzobarbarigo.it


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LUXE LoathesVENETIAN INTErNET

Either extortionate, cruelly slow or

completely non-existent.

MENU TUrísTICO

Either extortionate, cruelly slow or

completely non-existent.

sHOPs CLOsING FOr 3 HOUrs AT LUNCH

A 3-hour lunch, everyday?

PIGEONs IN PIAZZA sAN MArCO

Vermin with wings, quit feeding them.

THE OrCHEsTrAs AT CAFFès FLOrIAN ANd qUAdrI

€10 to sit and hear them blast Vivaldi

over each other? No thanks.


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Fab vs. Drab

BAsILICA VIsIT

Visiting the exquisite Basilica di san

Marco with thousands of noisy tourists

surrounding you can be a less than

atmospheric experience, however visit

after hours on a personal guided tour

with Context Travel and you’ll have the

place pretty much to yourself.

www.contexttravel.com

PErsONAL GUIdE

Getting lost in the maze-like back streets

and alleys of the city when trying to shop

is all too easy, but arranging your own

personal guide to the best art, history,

food and artisans in the city from Walks

Inside Venice means you’ll never stray.

www.walksinsidevenice.com

dOGE’s dUNGEONs

Touring the astonishing Palazzo ducale

(doge’s Palace) is a must do for every

visitor, but book well ahead and score

yourself one of the limited tickets on

the special ‘secret Itinerary Tour’ that

includes the doge’s private rooms, torture

chambers and hidden passages.

www.visitmuve.it

GONdOLIEr TOUrs

Haggling on the waterside with a

gondolier is never a good look and all too

easily a passion killer, but book ahead

and you can arrange your own private

gondola tour tailored precisely to where

you want to go and what you want to see

at Gondolier Travel, and what’s more they

can arrange chocolates and flowers for

maximum romance too.

www.gondolieritravel.com

TAXI TIME

Waiting in line for public water transport

can be a bore in peak visitor months,

so why not consider zipping all around

town on your very own private, crewed

motorboat, or even have a go at driving

yourself at Brussa Is Boat.

www.brussaisboat.it


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LUXE ITINErAry

Romance

similarly to Paris, it’s rather difficult

to find anything in this city that isn’t

considered romantic. The sheer

atmospheric beauty of the endless

tiny alleyways, mini bridges, palazzos,

and backstreet canals with their gently

lapping waves and shabby chic aura is

heady stuff indeed. start your day the

classic lovers way with a gentle gondola

tour of the canals with Gondolier Travel.

It’s hopelessly touristic, but hopelessly

romantic too, and for that very special

moment they can also arrange chocs,

flowers and bubbles too. Back on dry,

land head to Naranzaria, the always

busy canal-side hipanista hub close to

the rialto market famed for its sushi,

and you can even wander amongst the

fruit and vegetables afterwards. Venice

has a wealth of shopping, but for true

romance it has to be jewelry, and Antonia

Miletto (see LUXE Insider) has the perfect

balance of distinctive and wearable

art off to a tee. spa! you can never be

pampered enough on vacation and the

Bauer’s Palladio Spa is a real betty. When

you book, arrange for a private water

transfer to whisk you over to Giudecca

where you’ll find two floors of spa with

lagoon views, and a whole slew of couple’s

treatments, even including a gentle

massage accompanied by live harp music!

Afterwards you can wander in the idyllic

flower-filled gardens, before jetting back

over the water for supper at La Caravella.

It’s ship ahoy at this intimate, candle-

lit, cabin-themed osteria complete with

helm and capstain, but book well ahead

in summer to snag one of the lovely

tables in the pretty garden, where cupid

is always to be found. All that remains is

a peaceful nightcap glass of prosecco on

the waterside terrace Bar Longhi at the

famed Gritti Palace hotel for the perfect

end to the perfect, romantic day.


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LUXE ITINErAry

Style

despite the fact that Venice’s dwindling

remaining inhabitants rely ever more

heavily on tourism to keep afloat, no pun

intended, it certainly hasn’t hindered the

genetic Italian concept of la bella figura

amongst those remaining. Make sure you

put your best foot forward by stopping

first at delectable Sete-Cento. Alessandro

Possati’s couture house specialises in

taking traditional, lavish brocades and

silks and conjuring them into unique,

red carpet-worthy gowns, as well as

jackets for dandies, featuring all manner

of beautiful details like Murano glass

buttons and hand-made lace. After your

custom appointment it’s time for lunch

at the Grand Canal Restaurant where

you will join the chic set and all their

glittery friends for plenty of waterside air

kissing between sips of Prosecco. Now

it wouldn’t be Venice without visiting

one of the famed pair of caffès in Piazza

San Marco, but avoid the crowds and

leave the tourists to be deafened by the

orchestras, and instead head inside Caffè

Florian to the back bar where locals and

cluey visitors go for their post lunch

espresso. refreshed, it’s time to head

over to Palazzo Grassi – François Pinault

took over this gleaming white palace and

had it refreshed by Tado Ando as a home

for rotating exhibits from his personal

collection as well as temporary shows.

Culture done, it’s time for cicchetti at a

classic wine bar or bacaro-like close by

Osteria Enoteca San Marco, or if

you don’t mind a short journey head

over to dorsoduro for Al Bottego (see

LUXE Insider). Grab a vaporetti now and

over the lagoon you go to Giudecca to

catch the sunset from your alfresco table

at Harry’s dolci (see LUXE Loves)

followed by supper at I Figli delle Stelle

(see LUXE Loves). stylish and far from

the madding crowds – bliss.


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It’s simply madness to think you

could even scratch the surface of the

extraordinary treasures of this city in one

day, but excepting all the major tourist

attractions, there are still masses of

wonderful experiences to be had. One of

the handiest ways to see as much as you

can if your time is short is to jump aboard

the Vaporetto dell’Arte. This smart boat

takes you to all the major art stops along

the Grand Canal like the Accademia (be

sure to see the ravishing Carpaccios in

rooms 20 & 21, as well as, of course, the

works of Bellini, Veronese and Giorgione,

and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

(see LUXE Loves). right on the eastern

tip of dorsoduro is François Pinault’s

second gallery masterpiece, once again

in collaboration with Tadao Ando, Punta

LUXE ITINErAry

CultureDella Dogana. This dramatic C.15th

palazzo-turned-customs house houses

a stellar cache of contemporary art in

themed rotations, and also the rather

convenient Dogana Café – perfect for

respite from an attack of museum-foot.

For lunch head up to the Rialto Bridge,

and while it’s impossible to avoid the

crowds there, barely a few steps away

hidden in an alley you’ll find Alla Madonna

(see LUXE Loves), our all-time favorite

for seafood risotto. suitably feasted it’s

time for a real cultural and historical

treat. Before even arriving in Venice

you will have pre-booked your Secret

Itinerary Tour (see drab vs Fab) for an

absolutely fascinating ‘backstage’ view of

the terrifying goings on in the infamous

Doge’s Palace. Torture, secret passages,

clandestine meetings, hidden rooms,

the tour has the lot, and the limited

numbers allowed means for once you’re

not elbowed from pillar to post. As sunset

drifts over this most beautiful of cities,

treat yourself to a trip down the Grand

Canal on a private boat from Brussa Is

Boat for your very own Canaletto moment

(don’t forget your camera), before ending

for an enchanting alfresco supper on the

canopied floating terrace of Lineadombra

in dorsoduro. Perfetto.


Citi PrestigeSM

LUXE ITINErAry

The Essentials

• Gondolier Travel

Cannaregio 4790 / +39 41 2410085

www.gondolieritravel.com

• Naranzaria

san Polo 130 / +39 41 7241035

www.naranzaria.it

• Antonia Miletto (see LUXE Insider)

• Palladio spa

Bauer Palladio / F.ta delle

Zitelle / Giudecca 33 /

+39 41 2703869 / Apr-Nov

www.bauerhotels.com

• La Caravella

Via XXII Marzo / sM 2399 /

+39 41 5208901

www.restaurantlacaravella.com

• Bar Longhi

Hotel Gritti Palace / Campo santa

Maria del Giglio / sM 2467 /

+39 41 794611

www.gritti.hotelinvenice.com

• sete-Cento

Calle del ridotto / sM 1388 /

+39 41 2406908

www.sete-cento.it

• Grand Canal restaurant

Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal /

san Marco 1332 / +39 41 5200211

www.hotelmonacovenice.com

• Caffè Florian

Piazza san Marco / sM 56 /

+39 41 5205641

www.caffeflorian.com

• Palazzo Grassi

Campo san samuele / sM 3231 /

+39 41 5231680

www.palazzograssi.it

rOMANTIC ITINErAry sTyLIsH ITINErAry

• Osteria Enoteca san Marco

Frezzeria / sM 1610 / +39 41 5285242

www.osteriasanmarco.it

• Al Bottego (see LUXE Insider)

• Harry’s dolci (see LUXE Loves)

• I Figli delle stelle (see LUXE Loves)


Citi PrestigeSM

LUXE ITINErAry

The Essentials

• Vaporetto dell’Arte

Isola Nova del Tronchestto 32 /

+39 41 2424

www.vaporettoarte.com

• Accademia

Campo della Carità / dorsoduro 1050 /

+39 41 5200345

www.gallerieaccademia.org

• Peggy Guggenheim Collection

(see LUXE Loves)

• Punta della dogana

Campo san samuele / dorsoduro 2 /

+39 41 5231680


CULTUrE ITINErAry

• dogana Café

Campo san samuele / dorsoduro 2 /

+39 41 5231860


• Alla Madonna

(see LUXE Loves)

• secret Itinerary Tour

(see drab vs Fab)

• doge’s Palace

Piazza san Marco 1

• Brussa Is Boat

+39 41 715787

www.brussaisboat.it

• Lineadombra

Ponte dell’Umilta / dorsoduro 19 /

+39 41 2411881

www.ristorantelineadombra.com


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