Valve Seals DIY

There are lots of notes and cautions throughout this

DIY. This is a very delicate procedure, so work slowly

and patiently, and get help from an experienced gear head if you are unsure of any procedures. Do this at

your own risk.

The only pictures in this DIY are of the valve seal replacement procedures. This DIY assumes that you

have a decent amount of knowledge regarding most

components in the engine compartment.

Parts Required

1. Camshaft seals (2 seals)

2. Valve seal: 12 intake and 12 exhaust. Get two extra of each, just in case you lose or damage any new seals. Note: Intake valves have silver colored springs, and exhaust valve seals have black colored springs

3. Valve keepers: The existing keepers will be reused, but get a couple extra, just in case you lose any keepers.

4. Valve cover kits (2 kits): Includes cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, and cover bolt grommets

Tools/Materials Required Tool Use

One two-foot breaker

bar

Hold crankshaft in place during cylinder pressurization (25”

for $13 @ Harbor Freight)

12” screwdriver Check for piston TDC - a similar probing tool can be used if a screwdriver isn’t available

Ratchet + 10mm and 12mm sockets

Remove bolts. 10mm can also be used to seat seals on the valve guide.

ValveMaster tool (toyotool.com)

Remove and install keepers on the valve spring. Lisle makes a tool that’s similar (36200) and ½ the price of the ValveMaster, but you’ll need to use a 10mm socket to seat the seals on the valve guide, instead. You will need one of

these valve retainer/keeper tools to make this installation easier – don’t be cheap! You’ll be saving close to $2K by doing this procedure yourself, anyway.

Needle nose vise grips Remove hard-to-reach exhaust valve seals

Valve seal pliers Shorter pliers work best

Air compressor Pressurize cylinders - larger capacity compressors work best.

Valve holder air hose Pressurize cylinders (PowerBuilt @ O’Reilly’s or Carquest

brand for around $15)

Clothes pin Catch and hold falling valves if air pressure is lost. This is

very unlikely to happen, but it’s best to be prepared.

PVC Pipe Tool Remove retainers and keepers on hard-to-reach exhaust

valves. Note: The design of this tool was borrowed from a .COM forum member. See the Appendix for

tool construction details.

Blue disposable shop towels

Plug oil galleries and spark plug holes. These have less fibrous material than paper towels, so they won’t leave a lot of debris in the head.

Telescoping magnet Grab keepers when PVC tool is used to remove retainers and keepers

Air impact wrench Remove camshaft sprocket bolts

10mm ratchet wrench Remove bolts in tight spaces. Autozone sells a set of two Duralast ratchet wrenches that have four sizes each for around $20.

Magnetic tray Hold metal parts (optional, but recommended)

Mask Gaseous air will blow in your face while you’re changing

the seals; you don’t want to breathe that for a prolonged period of time.

Workbench or shelf Store removed valve covers, rocker arms, and camshafts.

Plastic garbage bags Store and protect removed valve covers, rocker arms, and camshafts from spills and debris.

1.25”-wide flexible

metal putty knife

Scrape gasket material from the cylinder head

RTV sealant Seal cover gaskets to valve covers at various spots

Small pry bar Assist with removing valve covers

Work gloves (Gloves with a good amount of

grip)

Grasp and push on ValveMaster

Caution: Don’t use gloves when you’re loading the

keepers in the spring retainers during the

procedures, or you’ll drop the keepers.

Lots of strength The exhaust valve springs are hard to access, so strength is a must with the limited amount of space and leverage.

Small step stool Added height if you’re not tall

Ink correction fluid Make marks on the timing belt

Small binder clips (2) Hold timing belt on sprockets when reinstalling it

Wonder Bar Added leverage for installing valve spring components

Hacksaw or similar saw Cut PVC

Caution: Work in a well-ventilated area.

Procedures **Suggestion 1: Use plastic Ziploc sandwich bags, blue masking tape, and a

sharpie to label everything you remove from the engine compartment**

**Suggestion 2: Read over this procedure several times before putting it to use**

1. Follow LegendLand’s DIY for Timing Belt/Water Pump replacement until you get to the point where the timing belt is to be removed: a. Skip removing the water pump if you will not be replacing the water pump. b. If you’re not replacing the timing belt, mark an arrow on it to denote the direction of

rotation before removing it; you’ll want to reinstall the timing belt with the arrow pointing in the same direction when you’re finished with this DIY.

c. Use the correction fluid to paint marks on the timing belt at the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket. Also, paint a mark on the oil pump sprocket and on the belt at

the newly made mark on the oil pump sprocket. Painting these marks will make installing the timing belt later much easier and more accurate.

VERY IMPORTANT: Before you remove the timing belt, use an air impact wrench or

ratchet with a 12mm socket to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts then hand

tighten them, but not too tight; an air impact wrench works best for camshaft

sprocket bolt removal, because it won’t cause the camshafts to spin and throw off

the timing marks. Once the bolts have been hand tightened, recheck your timing

marks, resetting it as needed, then remove the timing belt. Do not attempt to turn

the camshafts or crankshaft once the timing belt has been removed.

2. Move the fuse panel (driver’s side): Open the fuse box and unbolt the 2 power lines that

connect with 10mm Philips head screws. Unbolt the fuse box from the car frame. Push it towards where the battery was located. It still has the wiring harness connected to it, so

leave it be. You just need to move it in order to remove the driver’s side valve cover. Note: This step was borrowed from the Head Gasket DIY.

3. Remove the stabilizer bar, ignition coils (label them per cylinder), and other cylinder

head obstructions from the top of the engine. There aren’t a ton of obstructions on the passenger side, but the driver’s side is full of things that need to be removed or pushed out of the way. Some bolts are in very tight spaces, so the ratchet wrench will come in handy. You need to make lots of space so that you can remove AND reinstall the valve

covers. Lastly, remove the valve covers. Caution: A small pry bar may be needed in order to remove the valve covers. Brace

the handle end of the pry bar against the intake manifold to avoid damaging the

cylinder head. Pry gently and cautiously in several spots along the cylinder head

until it pops loose. More than likely, cover gasket pieces will remain stuck to the

cylinder head on the exhaust side.

4. Unbolt and remove the camshaft sprockets.

5. Remove the rear timing covers.

6. Passenger side and driver side rocker assembly removal – do one side at a time: Loosen

each rocker arm bolt one turn at a time in the sequence mentioned below until the bolts are out of the their cylinder head holes. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS FROM THE ROCKER ARM OR THE ASSEMBLY WILL COME APART!

7. After the bolts are out of the cylinder head holes, carefully lift the rocker assembly

from the cylinder head by grasping it firmly at each end. If old sealant is holding the

rocker assembly onto the cylinder head, get assistance to gently pry it loose while the other person holds it in place so that parts don’t go flying. Once the rocker arm is free of the cylinder head, set it on the shelf or workbench.

8. Remove the camshaft and set it on the shelf or workbench. Remove the camshaft seal from the end of the camshaft – observe how it’s installed for the purpose of installing new seals later.

Note: Store the camshafts and rocker arms in plastic bags on the shelf or

workbench. Be sure to label which components go with each cylinder head

(i.e passenger’s side or driver’s side). Now that the rocker arms and

camshafts have been removed, the valves are in the closed position; this

means that the crankshaft may be turned freely without the risk of bending

valves.

9. Stuff pieces of blue shop towel in the oil galleries and spark plug holes (not so deep so that you can’t remove them) to prevent parts from falling into the cylinder heads.

10. If the air compressor is turned off, turn it on and wait for it to pressurize. Set the air line

pressure to 80 PSI. Note: Be sure the air compressor is plugged in firmly and that

it cannot be easily unplugged. For an overhead outlet, if you have exposed

rafters, tie the extension cord around the rafters then plug it in so that the

weight of the cord doesn’t cause it to unplug itself.

11. Reinstall the crankshaft bolt - tighten it with a ratchet and 19mm socket. The crankshaft

may turn while you’re tightening the bolt, but this is fine.

12. Remove the spark plug for cylinder #1, then use the ratchet to turn the crankshaft

clockwise so that piston #1 is slightly past top dead center (TDC) on its downward stroke. This will prevent the crankshaft from spinning unpredictably, since it will only spin in one direction when the cylinder is pressurized. To find slightly past TDC, use a

long screwdriver, holding it LIGHTLY on top of the piston so it doesn’t catch on the side of the piston while turning the crankshaft clockwise. As the screwdriver and piston rise, peak, then start to go down, stop turning the crankshaft.

13. Remove the ratchet from the 19mm socket on the pulley bolt (in other words, leave the

socket in place on the bolt) and install the two-foot breaker bar in place of the ratchet, resting the bar firmly against the floor on the driver’s side of the engine. Note: The crankshaft will attempt to turn when the cylinder is pressurized in the next

step, so don’t be alarmed.

14. Carefully screw the valve holder air hose into cylinder #1’s spark plug hole; don’t screw

the hose in too tight or it will be difficult to remove. Connect the valve holder air hose to the quick connect coupling on the air compressor. The cylinder should now be pressurized. Check the air compressor to verify that the line pressure is at 80 PSI. Also, some air may be heard/felt escaping from the spark plug hole of cylinder #1 – this is

normal. The following picture shows the valve holder air hose in cylinder #2 as an example:

15. With the body of the ValveMaster installed in the handle so that the removal end is

showing, place the ValveMaster squarely over the first intake valve retainer and keepers. Give a quick, firm push to remove the retainer and keepers; they should stick to the ValveMaster’s magnet. Then remove the spring. Use the valve seal pliers to remove the valve seal from the valve stem; this may take a bit of twisting and pulling, but it should

gradually work free. Remove any valve seal residue from the valve stem. Go to toyotool.com if you want to see a demo of the ValveMaster. The Lisle tool

works similarly.

16. Coat the new intake valve seal with clean engine oil and place it in the body of the

ValveMaster (***Very Important*** - Again, seals with silver springs are for

intake, and the seals with black springs are for exhaust). Use the ValveMaster to seat the new seal over the valve stem and firmly on the valve guide. In absence of the ValveMaster, a 10mm deep socket can be used to seat the seal on the valve guide.

17. Install the spring with the most coiled end seated on the valve guide (red marks on the

spring denote the top end), then place the retainer and keepers (narrowest ends of the keepers down) on the spring. Pull the body from the handle of the ValveMaster and

reinstall it in the handle so that the installation side is showing. Place the ValveMaster squarely over the keepers and give it a quick, firm push to install the retainer and keepers.

Pic of installation side of the ValveMaster:

***Very Important*** - Verify that the valve keepers are installed correctly (not

crooked or loose) before continuing. If they are not installed correctly, carefully

remove them with the removal end of the ValveMaster and repeat the installation

process.

18. Repeat the spring, retainer, keeper, and valve seal removal and installation procedures

for the other valves in cylinder #1 (steps 15-17). Notes on Exhaust valves:

i. It takes a bit of strength to remove and install exhaust valve components, and a variety of tools and methods may need to be employed in order to remove and install valve components.

ii. Exhaust valves on cylinders 2, 3, 5, and 6 are the most difficult to do – Get a second pair of hands to assist you!

iii. Exhaust valves will require using the vise grips pliers to remove the seals because of limited space. Also, exhaust valve stems have ridges near the

valve seat, and some exhaust valves may have melted on the valve stem, so they could take some time to remove. A twisting and pulling motion is necessary to gradually work the seal free of the ridges. BE PATIENT.

iv. The body of the ValveMaster may have to be removed from the handle in order to remove and install exhaust valve components on cylinders 1, 4, and 6.

v. A pry bar against the ValveMaster body was effective for installing the

retainers and keepers on cylinders 2, 3, and 5. Get a second person to lever

the pry bar while you hold the ValveMaster correctly aligned against the spring assembly.

vi. The PVC tool is very useful for removing exhaust valve components. A second person will be required to use the telescoping magnet to grab the keepers while you press on the valve spring assembly with the PVC tool. Again, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE PVC TOOL TO INSTALL THE

VALVE COMPONENTS! IT WILL NOT WORK, AND YOU RISK LOSING

KEEPERS BY DOING SO. vii. You may want to try slipping a ¾” PVC “T” over the ValveMaster body to

remove and install components on exhaust valves. When you slip the PVC “T”

over the ValveMaster, you’ll hit the pipe stop ridge, but you can shove it on further past the ridge for a tighter fit and easier fit into tight spaces. Add a couple inches of pipe to either end of the “T” to make a handle so that you

have something to grip. Pic below:

19. Once all four valve seals have been changed in cylinder #1, depressurize the cylinder by

disconnecting the valve holder air hose from the air compressor line. Then carefully unscrew the hose from cylinder #1’s spark plug hole.

20. Repeat steps 12-19 for the remaining cylinders, substituting “cylinder #1” or “piston #1”

with the particular cylinder being worked. Remember to plug up the spark plug holes of cylinders not currently being worked.

21. Once all valve seals have been changed, turn the crankshaft so that cylinder #1 is at

TDC. Verify TDC on piston #1 with a screwdriver and make sure the metal key on the crankshaft is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing.

22. Use the flexible putty knife to carefully scrape gasket residue from the cylinder heads

without scoring the head surface. You may want to cover the cylinder head with shop towels to prevent the gasket residue from falling into the cylinder head.

23. Use the telescoping magnet to check the cylinder head for any metal objects that may have dropped in the head (e.g. lost keepers) then remove the shop towel pieces from the oil galleries and spark plug holes.

24. Install the camshaft in the passenger’s side cylinder head: a. Install a new camshaft seal on the camshaft, lubricating the inner part of the seal

that contacts the camshaft with engine oil so that it slides on easily. Be sure that the seal is correctly installed with the flat side facing out of the cylinder head when

the camshaft is finally installed in the cylinder head. b. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil: Dip your fingers (preferably gloved fingers)

in engine oil then run them along the camshaft.

c. Position the camshaft in the cylinder head so that the pin hole on the front of the camshaft is in the top position of the cylinder head (imagine the cylinder head sitting on a bench as opposed to sitting on the engine block).

25. Install the passenger’s side rocker arm:

a. Apply RTV to the surface at each end of the rocker arm where rockers #1 and #7 mate with the cylinder head. It may be best to apply the RTV to the cylinder head vs. the rocker arm, but you need to make sure the RTV application matches up with rockers #1 and #7.

b. Gently set the rocker arm in the cylinder head, matching up all 22 bolt holes. Tighten each bolt by hand in the sequence mentioned below until a fair amount of resistance is felt.

c. Very important: Use the torque wrench to further tighten each rocker arm bolt

one turn at a time in the sequence mentioned below until the bolts are tightened to the proper torque spec: Torque spec for 6mm bolts with 10mm heads is 9 ft/lbs, and the torque spec for 8mm bolts with 12mm heads is 16 ft/lbs.

26. Install a new head cover gasket kit on the passenger’s side valve cover, including RTV

gasket sealant for the valve cover gasket; the RTV should be applied to corners and curves between the cover and the gasket and at a couple different spots along the straight edge. Don’t apply RTV between the cylinder heads and the valve cover gaskets, and don’t get carried away with applying too much RTV. Carefully

reinstall the valve cover on the cylinder head so that the gasket is still intact then tighten the valve cover bolts, but NOT TOO TIGHT! – a little past hand tight will do.

27. Install the camshaft in the driver’s side cylinder head:

a. Install a new camshaft seal on the camshaft, lubricating the inner part of the seal that contacts the camshaft with engine oil so that it slides on easily. Be sure that the seal is correctly installed with the flat side facing out of the cylinder head when

the camshaft is finally installed in the cylinder head. b. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil: Dip your fingers (preferably gloved fingers)

in engine oil then run them along the camshaft. c. Position the camshaft in the cylinder head so that the pin hole on the front of the

camshaft is in the top position of the cylinder head (imagine the cylinder head sitting on a bench as opposed to sitting on the engine block).

28. Install the driver’s side rocker arm:

a. Apply RTV to the surface at each end of the rocker arm where rockers #1 and #7 mate with the cylinder head. It may be best to apply the RTV to the cylinder head vs. the rocker arm, but you need to make sure the RTV application matches up with rockers #1 and #7.

Note: The rocker arm is installed in reverse of the pic above on the driver’s

side.

b. Gently set the rocker in the cylinder head, matching up all 22 bolt holes. Tighten

each bolt by hand until a fair amount of resistance is felt. c. Very important: Use the torque wrench to further tighten each rocker arm bolt

one turn at a time in the sequence mentioned below until the bolts are tightened

to the proper torque spec: Torque spec for 6mm bolts with 10mm heads is 9 ft/lbs, and the torque spec for 8mm bolts with 12mm heads is 16 ft/lbs.

29. Install a new head cover gasket kit on the driver’s side valve cover, including RTV gasket

sealant for the valve cover gasket; the RTV should be applied to corners and curves between the cover and the gasket and at a couple different spots along the straight edge. Don’t apply RTV between the cylinder heads and the valve cover gaskets, and

don’t get carried away with applying too much RTV. Carefully reinstall the valve

cover on the cylinder head so that the gasket is still intact then tighten the valve cover bolts, but NOT TOO TIGHT! – a little past hand tight will do.

30. Reinstall the camshaft sprockets, hand tightening the bolts. The camshaft(s) will

move if you attempt to use a ratchet to tighten the bolts. Verify that the timing

marks on the camshaft sprockets line up with the rear timing cover.

31. Reinstall the timing belt, matching up the correction fluid marks on the belt with the marks on the camshaft sprockets and oil pump sprocket to ensure a proper fit. Small

binder clips come in handy for holding the timing belt in place on the sprockets while you’re routing it. See pic below for proper installation:

32. Now that the timing belt has been installed, use the torque wrench to tighten the

camshaft sprocket bolts to 23 ft/lbs. The belt may turn while you’re torquing the bolts, but this is fine, since the timing belt is installed and will maintain the timing.

33. Reinstall the valve cover components on each cylinder head (e.g. brackets).

34. Reinstall the stabilizer bar.

35. Reinstall the fuse panel.

36. Continue with the LegendLand DIY for Timing Belt to put everything back together, including setting the timing belt’s tension.

37. Once you’ve finished with the timing belt DIY, let the car warm up a bit then take it for a test drive. If you have no blue smoke and the engine runs smoothly, you’re good to go.

Finished

Appendix

PVC Tool The PVC tool is used strictly for removing the retainers and keepers from exhaust valves. Do not attempt to use it to install the retainers and keepers.

Materials

A. ¾” PVC “T” B. ¾” PVC Pipe (One foot)

C. 1” PVC (One foot)

Steps:

Note: The cut measurements throughout this tool construction portion

may not be accurate, because I threw the tool away when I was finished

with it. Experiment with the measurements.

1. Use a hacksaw or similar saw to cut three pieces from the ¾” PVC pipe: 1.5”, 2”, and 2.5” pieces. The 1.5” and 2.5” pieces are for the tool handle

2. Cut a 1.5” piece from the 1” PVC pipe. 3. Cut a rectangular slit in the 2” pipe (3/4” round piece) that extends partway

into the PVC “T”. Cutting the slit up that far up allows the ¾” pipe to be

compressed so that the 1” pipe can slip over it. These cutters worked great for cutting slits; this is my “go to” cutting tool ☺:

4. Cut a rectangular slit in the 1” PVC pipe that is slightly wider than the ¾”

pipe’s slit.

5. Put the pieces together. You’ll need to use a pair of pliers to compress the ¾”

pipe so that the 1” pipe can slide over it.

Here’s the finished product: