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H ACCP is the acronym for Haz-ard Analysis and Critical Con-
trol Point. Use ofHACCPprocedures is rapidly gaining accep-tance as the "state-of-the-art" in foodsafety methodology. A HACCP pro-gram identifies "critical controlpoints" during a processing opera-tion for a food where a "hazard"might be introduced. A monitoringprocedure is instituted which detectsany safety lapses in the process andthus any attendant risk. Monitoringrecords are kept by the processor todemonstrate that the program is be-ing properly implemented. These re-cords are also used by federal and
IIstate officials to monitor compliance.Critical control points could includepoint of receipt, the thermal process-ing stage of the canning process,cook and post-cook stages of prepara-tion processes, final packaging orstorage conditions.
Recent scientific evaluation offood safety procedures indicate thatHACCP programs are the preferredmethods for assuring fish and sea-food product safety. In fact, HACCP-based programs are now beingconsidered for other foods-includ-ing meat and poultry.
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automation capabilities,growing area water sampleresults are being evaluatedmonthly-immediately afterthe most recent set of seawa-ter sampling results are re-ceived.
were performed, and 1,462shellfish meat samples werecollected and analyzed micro-biologically to assure safetyand quality.
every 12 years, DSS con-ducts them on an average ofonce every six years. Poten-tial pollution problems foundby these surveys are sent tothe appropriate regulatoryagency for their evaluationand correction.
0 Toxic Substances
Analysis-Whole live shell-fish are collected twice ayear from representativeshellfish growing areasthroughout Virginia, and areanalyzed for pesticides, toxicchlorinated hydrocarbonslike PCBs, and heavy met-als. Sixty such sampleswere collected in 1991-noneof which are required byNSSP.
0 Seawater Sam-pling- Seawater samplesare collected in the shellfishgrowing areas to assure thatunsafe levels of bacteria donot occur in the approvedharvest areas. Seawatersamples are collected once amonth (as opposed to sixtimes per year as requiredby the NSSP). The totalnumber of samples in 1991:24,301.
0 Shellfish Plant In-spection-All shellfishplants in Virginia must bycertified by VDH and mustmeet sanitary and construc-tion requirements of the Na-tional Shellfish SanitationProgram (NSSP). Shellfishplants are required by theNSSP to be inspected eithersemi-annually or quarterlyper year. VDHinspects allplants at least once a month,if not more. In 1991 thisamounted to 2,258 shellfishplant inspections.
0 Computer Model-ing-Recently, an advancedcomputer modeling programhas been developed and im-plemented to determine theproper size of closed harvestareas needed around sewagetreatment plants, marinasand other point source dis-charges of similar concern.
As a result of the in-depth monitoring conductedby the VDH to classify shell-fish growing waters, and thestrict adherence to the classi-fication standards of NSSP,the waters approved for di-rect harvest in Virginia areexceptionally clean. TheVMRC maintains night andday patrols to prevent the il-legal harvesting of shellfishfrom condemned areas, thusensuring that shellfish har-vested in Virginia come fromapproved areas. Once har-vested, the shellfish for pub-lic consumption must betaken immediately to adealer inspected and certi-fied by the VDH, ensuringstrict sanitary handling ofthe shellfish. After the prod-uct is shipped to Virginiamarkets, it is inspected byeither the Virginia Depart-ment of Agriculture at the re-tail level, or by the localVDH sanitarians as part oftheir restaurant inspections.
Virginia's rigorous shell-fish sanitation program haslong been in place, and it isthe agency's aim to continuethis tradition of high stand-ards and superior product
quality.
0 Miscellaneous In-Plant Samples-Potablewater used in processingshellfish is tested monthlyat all plants. During 1991 atotal of 3,269 water analyses
0 Growing Area Clas-sification-Using the datagenerated by the shorelinesurvey, the seawater sam-pling, and computer model-ing programs, shellfishgrowing areas are com-pletely evaluated yearly (theNSSP requires this per-formed every three years).In addition, due to recent .;. .;.. .;.
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through a plant is a signifi-cant issue. The object ofproc-essing is a safe food, and aproduct should not be madeimpure by substances or mi-croorganisms from other ar-eas, a phenomenon industrycalls "cross contamination."
The first step in prevent-ing cross contamination be-comes immediately obviouswhen one enters a plant likeCowart Seafood; crucialstages of the operation are di-vided by physical barriers.Consequently, the holdingarea for oysters is separatefrom the shucking room. Oys-ters are conveyed to theshucking room via a windowin the cement wall. ThP ar-eas where oysters arecleaned, rapidly cooled and fi-nally stored are again, all inseparate rooms. The sameconcept is applied to tools,utensils and, of course, work-ers. A shovel used in theshellstock area is not usedwhere oysters are cleaned; ashucking knife stays in theshucking room. Employeeswho shuck oysters are prohib-ited from passing throughother processing parts of theplant on the way to and fromthe shucking room, prevent-ing microorganisms fromhitchhiking a ride.
Food contact surfacescome under quite a bit ofscrutiny, too. Wooden sur-faces have long been used infood processing, but thesesame areas can harbor micro-organisms even after theyhave been sanitized. InCowart's operation, not a bitof wood is to be seen. Plastic,
Oysters being conveyed to theshucking room.
aluminum andstainless steel arethe better, cleanersurfaces. Even theplatforms on whichworkers stand arealuminum, andstainless steel isused in the ice bins.
Just how exten-sive are Virginia'srules governing har-vest, processingand distribution?The Common-wealth's Shellfishand Crustacea Sani-tation Regulations,detailed in a 165-page document, is astudy in the minu-tiae of harvestingand processing.The state electedon its own to ex-ceed most, if not allof the federal regu-lations. In Vir-ginia's regulations,obvious preventa-tive measures areoutlined, as well as whatwould seem fairly obscure tothe layman. Thus, the ac-ceptable types of sanitationare outlined, as are the footcandles of illumination forevery area, the wall color, thefloor slope, and the numberof times shucking knivesmust be cleaned in the courseof a day. The amount of icethat must be produced eachday is defined as is the typeof water that can be used toproduce ice. Even the dimen-sions of the shucking tableare in black and white. Divi-sion of Shellfish Sanitation
Director, Robert Croonen-berghs, points out that rulesexist for whether or not ahairline crack in the floor isacceptable.
As Cowart gives a tour ofthe family plant, he is alsotaking care of business-checking on progress, liftingthis, double-checking that,taking care of this detail,that detail-a man focusedon the exacting business ofoyster packing. It is not sur-prising that in a place likethe Northern Neck of Vir-ginia, where the ChesapeakeBay and its tributaries are asearnestly harvested as the
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by production). The nextstep is the "blowing tank."Here oyster meats are freedof grit and cleaned as theyare agitated in a large tankfor several minutes. Ice isconstantly placed in the tankto bring the temperature tobelow 450 F.
Oysters are drained andplaced in containers, and theproduct temperature broughtdown even further in thecooler. After this, the prod-uct's fate is determined bythe buyer or the market.Some oysters may be des-tined to be sold as a freshproduct; others, like OystersRockefeller, further proc-essed and then frozen.
i. -t. -to
der. The work is labor-inten-sive and requires exactingskills.
Oyster shuckers do notlive the 8-to-5 existence ofmost of the world. Shuckingstarts at about 3 a.m. andcontinues until about 9 a.m.Packing and processing con-tinues until approximately 5p.m.
After oysters arrive theyare stored in stall-like enclo-sures. From there they areloaded onto a conveyer whichpasses through a window tothe shucking room. An aver-age shucker can processeight pounds an hour. Oys-ters are shucked into stain-less steel containers and thentaken to a window andweighed (shuckers are paid
11
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The next step beyondcooling is the most labor in-tensive, extracting the meatfrom the crab with as littleshell as possible. Crab pick-ing is a more difficult occupa-tion than it might first seem.It takes between one andtwo years for a picker to be-come proficient. Eventhough a premier crabpicker at Hampton BayDays one year picked fourpounds in 15'minutes, the
average picker manages sixpounds in sixty minutes.
From a sanitation pointof view, the picking roomprobably receives the mostattention. Most people prob-ably think of food processingmostly as cooking a product.In truth, making sure condi-tions are sanitary is a strongunderpinning of any foodprocessing operation. In ad-dition to separating the pick-ing operation from all the
and check packaging integ-rity.
The following areas areof special concern when itcomes to crab processing:the sanitary conditions inthe picking house; the cook-ing and the pasteurizationprocess; packaging integrity;and temperature/time con-trol.
In a Virginia crab plantit. would be an anomaly tovisit an operation and notsee something being sani-tized. It starts at the begin-ning of the process whenblue crabs arrive. At Gra-ham and Rollins, CaZlinectessapidus literally run whatcan only be the equivalent ofa crustacean's gauntlet, along turning cylinder whichthe crabs must traverse.Water is sprayed throughholes in the cylinder and asthe crabs try to escape, theyare cleaned.
Cooking the product atRCV and Graham and Rol-lins is an automated process,eliminating the possibility ofoperator error. Tempera-tures are automatically re-corded and those recordschecked daily to ensure thatthe proper temperatureswere used during cooking.Crabs are loaded into binsand basically pressurecooked. A massive amountof crab can be cooked atonce: 3,600 pounds at RCVand 1,000 in the cookers atGraham and Rollins.
Baskets of crabs
after cooking
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Workers sortscallops at theprocessing
plant.
segment of a sea scallop op-eration is clear-cut: the prod-uct is washed and packaged.However, processing aidsare utilized and that was anarea that needed definition.
Tom Catlett, GeneralManager of Wells Ice andCold Storage, speaks highlyof the Virginia Sea Grant in-itiative which resulted inspecific guidelines for utiliz-ing processing aids.
Almost five years ago re-search began in this area.The challenge? At that timeSea Grant researcher RobertFisher noticed product qual-ity differences among mid-Atlantic processors. Plantswere using a wide range ofapplications with mixed re-
Catlett, who providessea scallops to top-of-the-linecustomers, believes oneother area could be en-hanced: consumer education.If the general public knewwhat is acceptable and whatis not, both industry and theconsumer would benefit. Inthe short term, Catlett offersthese tips to consumers: scal-lops should be firm notmushy; they should have amild odor opposed to astrong or offensive one. Thecolor of a scallop should beappealing. Above all, bewary of bar gin-basementprices since "the cheapestproduct is not always thebest."
IsuIts. Also, to many a proc-essor', dismay, the same ap-plicat~on would havedifferent results at varioustimes ~n the year.
Processing aids are usedto pre~ent moisture andsolua~ e proteins/vitamins
from eing lost. The loss
could appen during refrig-eratior' frozen storage, thaw-ing or cooking. The ideal isfor th~ sea scallop to retainthe ap~earance, color, odorand te~ture of a freshlyshuckfd product. Aftermany, many experiments re-searcHers determined that alow copcentration of sodiumtripol)\phosphate and saltproduted the best results.
+ +-t.
19
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charged by law with protect-ing the public health. Fishand seafood that are boughtand sold in this countrymust meet tough food safetystandards.
When seafood safetystandards were being formu-lated by the federal govern-ment, planners had aformidable task. The num-ber offish species caught inthe United States is size-able, and setting safety regu-lations for each species,difficult, to put it mildly.Every species deteriorates
way which puts seafood inthe very worst light.
Amory has a point aboutthe potential influence ofsome special interest groups.Washington, D.C. is not justthe home of Congress, theHouse of Representativesand federal government. Italso contains a city of lobby-ists, who have their associa-tions located close togovernment, the better toreach legislators. And spe-cial interest groups come inall forms, the good and thesometimes questionable.
The measures taken byfood processors like Amory,all part of ensuring a safeproduct, are not remotely un-derstood by the generalpopulation. Amory pulls along list out of a file, an ac-counting of the 32 city, stateand federal agencies whichat some point in the yearvisit a seafood processor likeAmory. Some of the agen-cies inspect the plant once ayear, others, frequently. Afew of the agencies performredundant functions. Deal-ing with 32 agencies is time-consuming, but Amoryconcludes it is part of thecost of doing business in the1990s.
The U.S. food supply isconsidered to be among thesafest-if not the safest-inthe world. The U.S. has thisreputation because of the ef-fectiveness of industry andthe federal and state regula-tory agencies, the latter
differently, seasonal differ-ences are found in some fish,and the spoilage process caneven vary from fish to fishwithin the same species.Part of the national plan forstandards would pinpointcritical areas in the process-ing line. That sounds easyenough until this considera-tion: a critical point for onespecies may not be one foranother.
This is where industry isalso not given enough credit.In a business like Amory's,which has processing for 75
Photo above: Off-loading squid fromthe hold. To the left: Squid arewashed before they are sorted.
21
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skin as it cuts through thefruit.
So, then, what is the bac-teria-phobic, or just plain cau-tious consumer to think?This nation's current stand-ards obviously exceed those ofthe past, and are superior tomost countries today. Foodscientists have made greatstrides in developing methodsfor safe food processing, andnational and state programsare in place to help protectpublic health. Even so, ill-ness does occur and thesource can often be foundright in the home, in the man-ner in which people preparefood. Many food safety ex-perts believe the majority ofcomplaints about illness canbe traced back to practices inthe kitchenf
All food products requirecare in handling. The platethat raw meat is on shouldnot be the same one used toserve the cooked product; themicroorganisms that were onthe meat did not disappearand are still on the plate.Customarily, pork andchicken are cooked thor-oughly for safety, a fact thegeneral public understandsand nonchalantly accepts.When it comes to seafood, peo-ple are many times not as un-derstanding, sometimeseyeing seafood with suspi-cion. This really does not
I t is an old story, the onein which two forces en-gage in a life and deathstruggle. It is a theme
of the natural world rightdown to the realm which canonly be seen through a micro-scope, the minute sphere ofmicroorganisms. Theirs istruly a Darwinian world inwhich the survivors are adeptat evolving, sometimes rap-idly, to a changing environ-ment.
Therein lies a challengefor food scientists. Pathogenscan change. To make mat-ters a bit more confusing,avirulent biotypes exist formany pathogens-meaning, anon-infective organism canhave the same genetic consti-tution of a pathogen. The dif-ficulty is in distinguishingthe two.
Pathogen and bacteriaare words which incite alarmin many people. This is un-reasonable since microorgan-isms are an ubiquitousfeature of the natural environ-ment. Only in food sciencetheory exists an area free ofbacteria: the interior parts ofsound vegetables and fT'.lits,and the muscle tissue ofhealthy animals. That theo-retical, bacteria-free area isevaded by the real world asthe sterile knife touches theexterior fruit skin and intro-duces contamination from the
have to be the case. If a con-sumer follows the followingguidelines, he or she canbenefit enormously from thehigh-quality and healthy pro-tein which is found in seafood..Buy from a reputable seller..Keep fresh and smoked sea-food refrigerated at 32-40 F.Do not store seafood for pro-longed periods. Try to useseafood within two days. Ifthat is not possible, freeze it..Keep a recreational catchcold. Food products deterio-rate quicker at higher tem-peratures, so cool the catchrapidly whether it is caughton shore, pier, or vessel..Observe proper sanitation.Human skin is covered withbacteria that contaminateany food. Washing one'shands cuts down on contami-nation..Handle raw and cooked sea-food separately. Cleanse thework area and utensils be-tween preparation and serv-ing of seafood. Raw andcooked seafood should notcome into contact with eachother..Cook fish until it begins toflake; scallops are readywhen they are no longertranslucent. The standardrule of thumb when using hotcooking methods (high tem-perature baking, grilling,broiling) is ten minutes perinch of flesh. .;.. .;..
23
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The conference will beheld at Stouffers, 202 EastPratt Street, Baltimore,Maryland 21202. If youneed hotel reservations atStouffers, call 1-800-535-1201.
The sponsors for this con-ference are: the Sea GrantPrograms of the Mid-Atlan-tic (Delaware, New Jersey,Maryland, North Carolinaand Virginia); the MarylandDepartment of Natural Re-sources; Maryland PowerPlant Research Program;and the National Oceanicand Atmospheric Admini-stration; and the NationalSea Grant College Program.
+ + +
U ntil six years ago, fewpeople in the United
States had heard of zebramussels (Dreissena polymor-pha). By the fall of 1989 thesmall molluscs had colonizedthe surface of nearly everyfirm object in Lake Erie.The molluscs have sincespread throughout the GreatLakes, to the Hudson andMississippi rivers and are ex-pected eventually to reachmost of North America's wa-
terways.The Mid-Atlantic Sea
Grant network will conducta conference in March to
bring together managers,educators and technical ex-perts to assess the zebramussel threat to the mid-At-lantic region and to decidehow to best mount a broad
plan for public awarenessand action.
The conference will be inBaltimore, Maryland, onMarch 10-12. The Wednes-day training session costs$20; the Thursday and Fri-day conference sessions, $65through February 26 ($85 af-ter that date). For furtherinformation on the confer-ence, call Dan Terlizzi at theMaryland Sea Grant Exten-sion Program (410) 638-3255. Or call the Sea Grantoffice in Delaware, (302) 831-8185; New Jersey, (908) 932-9636; North Carolina, (919)515-5287; or Virginia, (804)642-7164.
Trade show exhibitorsshould call Barbara Doll,North Carolina Sea Grant,for details at (919) 515-5287.
it a useful guide to anyone in-terested in Chesapeake Bayfishes. The publication willalso include as many colorphotos as possible, again toaid readers in identification.Fishes of the ChesapeakeBay is scheduled for a Sep-tember 1993 publication bySmithsonian Press. .;.
Dominion University. Theintroduction to this new edi-tion will be by John Musick,scientist at the Virginia Insti-tute of Marine Science.
This edition is slightlydifferent than the last. In-stead of describing thestatus of various fisheries,the new edition will expandsections on species, making
P eople who own a copy ofFishes of the Chesapeake
Bay are usually protective ofthe book, wary of borrowerswho might not return it.That is because it has longbeen considered the defini-tive book about Bay fishes.The book is now being re-vised by Ed Murdie and RayBirdsong, scientists at Old
25
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Place scallops in boiling water. Cover and return to the boiling point. Simmer 3-4 minutes, de-pending on size of the scallops. Drain. Grind scallops or chop into very small pieces. Combine soup,milk, and cream; heat. Mash or put through sieve. Add scallops; heat. Sprinkle chives over top.Makes 6 servings.
Thaw oysters if frozen. Fry bacon over moderate heat in large Dutch oven until crisp. Remove ba-con, reserve. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of bacon drippings from pan; add margarine or butter.Saute potatoes in drippings until lightly browned. Add onions, celery, carrots, and water; cover andsimmer about 5 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Add milk, half and half, corn, salt, pepperand liquid hot pepper sauce. Simmer. Add oysters, oyster liquor, and bacon. Heat just until edge ofoysters curl. Add liquid hot pepper sauce. Ladle into soup bowls; sprinkle with parsley. Makesabout 10 cups, 6 to 8 servings.
27
lIb. scallops1 quart boiling water2 T. salt2 cans (101/2 oz. each) condensed cream of potato soup1 pint milk1pint half and half2 T. chopped chives
1 pint oysters, fresh or frozen, undrained8 strips bacon, diced2 T. butter or margarine2 cups cooked potatoes, coarsely chopped1/2 cup sliced green onion or 1 medium onion, chopped1/2 cup diced celery1 medium carrot, coarsely shredded112 cup water2 cups milk2 cups half and half1 can (12 ox.) whole kernel corn, drained11/2 t. salt1/8 t. white pepper2 dashes liquid hot pepper sauce
chopped parsley
On the cover: blue crabsen masse to the cooker.Photo by Susan C. Waters.
Sea Grant Communications
Address correction requested
