Interlining

Interlining

Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one

kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.

To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind

of fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called

interlining.

Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,

polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its

properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist finish.

PURPOSE AND USE

These aims can be separated into three separate groups.

（ 1 ） TO MAKE Sewing Easier and To Increase Production

●Because of the speed of industrial sewing machines the

material must be in perfect shape before sewing so that the

machine operator does not have to try to reshape the piece

before or during the sewing time.If. before

sewing ,interlining is fused onto the material,it keeps it

shape, therefore saving time and labour. 

（2）Retaining Shape and Improving Materials Appearance

●The use of interlining helps the garment material 's

appearance while at the same time retaining the garments

shape.

With the development of interlinings and better Fusing

press machines, the permanent fusing process was

Developed.

With this process, garments keep their shape no matter

how often they are worn or washed

（3）Making a Functional, Lasting ,Easy to Wear Product

Using the Permanent press technique, everyone from the

producers and designers to the consumers is satisfied. The

people in production find the garments easier to sew, the

clothing designers can achieve shape and long term

performance, while the consumers get a good quality product

that is easy to care for, looks good and is easy to wear.

The basic aim of pressing is to make the garment look better

for longer periods of time. While still being comfortable.

Interlining reduces the occurrence of stretching, creasing and

wear.

FUNCTIONS OF INTERLINING:To support the garment.

To control the shape of the garment.

To control the area of the apparel.

To reinforce the components of the garment.

To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.

To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the

fabric.

To improve garment performance.

Uses of Interlinings: Interlining is generally used in collar,

cuffs, waist band, front facing of coat, outerwear plackets,

jackets, blazers etc. 

TYPES OF INTERLININGThere are mainly two types of interlining are as follows: Sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.Fusible interlining

DIVISION OF FUSING:-Permanent Fusing and Temporary Fusing

Interlining can be divided into 2 groups temporary and permanent.

The purpose of temporary fusing is to make sewing easier and to reinforce the

stitching. The fusing intensity does not need to be strong as it is merely to

prevent puckering during stitching.

Permanent fusing is used when the shape and style of the garment intact.

Therefore after washing and long periods of use, the interlining must stay fused.

If the fusing temperature, pressure and timing are not correctly set, the

intensity of the fusing will differ. Before fusing, the type of material and

interlining being used and the desired intensity of the bond must be considered.

(a) Permanent fusing must stay fused after washing or dry cleaning.

(b) Temporary fusing is simply to make sewing easier and can become separated

after the garment is completed.

NON FUSIBLE INTERLININGThe interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics

directly by sewing without heat and pressure is called non-

fuse interlining.

This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining or

non-fusible interlining.

For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is

treated with starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn

with main fabric.

Non fuse interlining is used for special case.

The application field is given below: 

Non-fuse interlining use in “Flame Retardant”

apparel.

It is used for making apparel for fire service

people.

Specially used in embroidery machine.

Advantages of Non-fusible Interlining:

To make flame retardant garments.Simple and easy technique.No elaborate machine is required.Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly

heated industry.

Disadvantages of Non-fusible Interlining:Quality is not good.Not suitable for large production.More time required.High work load & labor cost.

FUSIBLE INTERLINING:

It is most used interlining. The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics by applying heat and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible Interlining.

Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.

Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke garment”. It is very popular. 

Advantages of Fusible Interlining: To get similarities among the apparel. Interlining gives the same outlook of the apparel.

Application process is very easy.It has high productivity.Fusing time is less.It is cheap.Performance is very good.Disadvantages of Fusible Interlining:

High temperature is required.Special care is needed during attaching

interlining.

TYPES OF FUSIBLE INTERLINING:

On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible interlining can be classified as follows: 

Polyethylene coated interliningPolyamide coated interliningPVC coated interliningPolyester coated interliningPolypropylene coated interliningPVA coated interlining

Polyethylene Coated Interlining:Polyethylene is used as

resin coating.The effect of varying the

density of the resin is to give a greater resistance to dry cleaning solvents and a higher softening point with increasing density.

This type of interlining is used in collar, cuff of shirt.

The fabric attached with this type of interlining can be washed in water.

Polyamide Coated Interlining:Polyamide is used as

resin coating.Poly-amides are very

widely used in dry cleanable garments.

High temperature fusing is done for the garments, which are washed with water at 60ºc.

PVC Coated Interlining:

Poly vinyl chloride is used as resin coating

This type is suitable for both dry cleanable and washable garments.

PVC coated interlining is widely used for making the coat type garments.

Polyester Coated Interlining:Polyester is used as resin

coatingPolyester resins are used in

dry cleanable and washable garments because polyester is less water absorbent than polyamide.

It can be used as in all types of garments

This is called ideal interlining

Available in market but costly in price

Polypropylene Coated InterliningPolypropylene coated

interlining. The resin is similar to the properties of polyethylene coated interning

Comparatively high temperature fusing is done.

The fabric attached with this interlining can be washed with water

PVA Coated Interlining PVA coated interlining. Poly vinyl acetate

is used as resin coating

PVA coated interlining is not dry

cleanable and it has limited wash ability

Low temperature and pressure is

required. Basically it is used between the

leather and fur materials.

The resin is normally in the form of a

continuous plasticized coating on the

base fabric.

This type is rarely used in garments

industry

SELECTING & USING SUPPORTIVE FABRICS LININGS, UNDERLININGS & INTERLININGS

LiningLINING -- a separate, but attached, supportive or inner

garment fabric or fabric construction which conceals or covers the insidegarment construction.

Garments may be fully or only partially lined; completely or partially attached to the fashion garment.

A lining eliminates the need for time-consuming seam finishes and reduces "wear and tear" on the inside garment construction.

It will lengthen the life and durability of a garment. A lining provides some body and support to a garment, but it

never takes the place of interfacing. It often makes the garment easier to wear over other

clothing—as in a jacket or coat; it can eliminate the need for some under garmentssuch as a slip--as in a dress or skirt.

Fabric Selection

There are a multitude of fabrics suitable for use as a lining. The deciding factors include:

1) type of fashion fabric (weight, fiber content/method of care, hand or "feel," personal likes and dislikes)

2) type and style of garment3) type of lining--partial or complete; and how

the lining will be attached

Fabrics may be woven or knit; they should be able to "give" and recover as necessary to accommodate body movement.

The lining fabric should be durable, opaque, colorfast to perspiration and body oils and the same care method as the fashion fabric.

Lining should match or harmonize in color with the fashion fabric, and have a smooth surface texture to permit the garment to be taken on and off the body easily.

It is important that the lining be the same weight (a lightweight polyester or microfiber jacket or dress) or lighter weight (wool slacks or suit) and softer than the fashion fabric so that it does not dominate the garment.

Lining fabric should be preshrunk before using following the same procedure you plan to use for the finished garment.

Purchasing Tips

Pay very close attention to fiber content and fabric weave as they provide some very important clues to lining durability.

If garment is to be worn close to the body--i.e. dress--be sure lining is absorbent or "breathable." This often eliminates some synthetic linings made of polyester, nylon, etc.

Rayons, rayon/acetate blends or cotton may be more comfortable. Purchase or invest in the highest quality lining available

UNDERLINING UNDERLINING -- a supportive or inner garment fabric which "backs," or is

attached to, each major garment piece (jacket front, jacket back, sleeve, etc.).

The underlining and fashion fabric function together as one piece throughout the

construction process. The entire garment or only parts of the garment may be

underlined depending on the garment design, fashion fabric and the chief function

of the underlining. Underlining can give support and shape, prevent sagging and

stretching, add crease resistance, provide evenness of color when the fashion

fabric is not opaque or firmly woven, and help create certain fashion detail effects.

It is not designed to take the place of interfacing. A combination of underlining and

lining maybe used in a garment. Underlining should be preshrunk. Use the same

grain as corresponding garment pieces unless a separate pattern is included.

Fabric Selection:The weight of the underlining is usually

lighter, but compatible to the fashion fabric. Underlining and the fashion fabric must be

compatible in terms of care. Examples of underlinings include voile, organza, lightweight polyester/cotton blends, silk, muslin, lightweight percales, batiste, fusible tricot, and some commercial lining fabrics.

Underlining should be preshrunk before using.

INTERLINING INTERLINING --- a separate layer of fabric or fabric construction between

the lining and the fashion fabric used for many purposes. Interlining is

usually cut by the same pattern as the lining.

In the case of foam, fleece or felt-type fabric which adds some bulk, lining

would need to be cut some larger to accommodate interlining. Interlining

does not take the place of interfacing.

Fabric Selection: Some lining fabrics are backed with or come with

interlining substances: a metallic reflective finish, backed with wool,

quilted, or napped-backed lining fabrics, etc. Bulk often becomes a serious

consideration; "warmth without weight" is another. Interlinings must be

compatible with all other fabrics in the garment in terms of care.