UNISEX COMBAT CUSTOMS REFLECTIVE … CBCU...Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page No of pages CBCU...

PRIVATE SPECIFICATION

Prepared for

UNISEX COMBAT CUSTOMS REFLECTIVE

JACKETS

CBCU 026

Version 01.0/September 2016

Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page No of pages

CBCU 026 September 2016 SARS 01.0 2 26

1. Scope This specification covers the material, design, cut and make of sleeveless reflective vests for personnel of the South African Revenue Service, Customs.

2. Definitions and Abbreviations

For the purpose of this specification the definitions given in SANS 10371 "Terms and definitions

for clothing" and the following shall apply:

acceptable: acceptable to South African Revenue Service

nominal: subject to the tolerances normal to good manufacturing practice

SANS: South African National Standard

3. Style

The style is as follows:

sleeveless

front slide fastener fastening

each forepart to consist of two panels (colour block)

each back to consist of a single panel

South African Coat of Arms to be screen printed on the right forepart

left forepart to be fitted with an ID pouch

fronts and back to each be fitted with two horizontal and two vertical retro-reflective tape strips

armholes, neck and bottom hem to be bound with binding

back to be fitted with one encapsulated patch with the word “CUSTOMS”



4. Illustrations

Illustrations are not to scale and are for guidance only.

Figure 1 – Front view of reflective vest



5. Client Furnished Materials

No materials will be supplied by the South African Revenue Service.

Figure 2 – Back view of reflective vest



6. Component Materials

The following materials shall be supplied and used by the manufacturer. Trim charts shall also be

submitted by the manufacturer (see Annex A).

6.1 Knitted fabric

colour to be a highly visible fluorescent yellow and orange

to be treated with a UV inhibitor

to comply with the requirements as given in table 1

Table 1 – Knitted fabric requirements

1 2 4

Property Requirement Test method

Fibre composition, % ................................. 100 continuous-filament polyester

AATCC method 20

Knitted structure ........................................ 2 bar warp knit Visual examination

Mass per unit area, g/m2, min. .................... 85 SANS 5385

Dimensional change on laundering (in each direction), %, max. ...............................

5

SANS 960, Washing Proc C,

Drying procedure E

Colour fastness to:

Washing, rating, min. Change in colour ..................................... Staining of transfer cloths .......................

4-5 4-5

SANS 105-C02, but assess the specimen after 5 wash cycles

Perspiration, rating, min. Change in colour ..................................... Staining of transfer cloths .......................

4-5 4-5

SANS 105-E04

Rubbing, rating, min. Dry .......................................................... Wet .........................................................

4-5 4-5

SANS 105-X12

Light, rating, min. Change in colour ..................................... Staining of transfer cloths .......................

6 6

SANS 105-B02

Weathering, rating, min. Change in colour .......................................

4 SANS 481 a

a) Expose test specimens for 200 h. Condition in a dark room for 24 h in accordance with SANS 70, then assess the change in colour.

6.2 Binding

100% polyester or poly/cotton woven fabric binding

of nominal finished width 7 mm – 10 mm (after attachment)

to comply with the same colour fastness to light requirements as specified for the knitted fabric

colour fastness to rubbing and water to comply with the requirements as given in table 2

colour to be black

6.3 Slide fastener to comply with the requirements of SANS 1822 “Slide fasteners”

to comply with the requirements for performance class B slide fasteners



synthetic chain

one-way open end

colour to be black

6.4 Encapsulated retro-reflective tape an acceptable flexible white/sliver retro-reflective tape, nominal width 50 mm

to comply with the relevant requirements for a class 2 retro-reflective material of SANS 50471:2006 “High visibility clothing for professional use – Test methods and requirements”

encapsulated, high gloss, smooth sealed outer surface to prevent soiling

consist of cube corner (microprism) reflective elements integrally bonded to a flexible, smooth-surfaced, weather resistant UV stabilized polymeric film

microprismatic film be welded to a UV-stabalized polymeric film to protect the prisms from dirt

to be sewable

to be washable

6.5 Back patch to consist of three layers that are sealed by means of a high frequency weld

- bottom layer to be a white PVC material - centre layer to be a yellow high visibility vinyl with retro-reflective properties which shall comply with

the relevant requirements for class 2 retro-reflective material of SANS 50471 “High visibility warning clothing for professional use – Test methods and requirements”

- top layer transparent layer shall incorporate the word “CUSTOMS” (see figure 3 for guidance) the word “CUSTOMS” shall be centrally positioned in the width and length of each patch to be capital letters printed in black

of finished dimensions as given in figure 3

patch to be sewable

patch to be washable

Figure 3 - Back patch

6.6 Transparent PVC Sheeting an acceptable PVC sheeting of nominal thickness 500 µm (0.5 mm)

transparent (clear)

10 c

m

24 cm

6.4

cm

21 cm



6.7 Black PVC material an acceptable PVC sheeting

of nominal thickness 1250 µm (1.25 mm)

colour to be black 6.8 Paint for screen printing

to comply with requirements as given in table 2

to be a rubber paint compound that shall not crack or peel for the full service life of the jacket

design to be that of the registered South African Coat of Arms on a white background

dimensions to be as given in figure 4

colour breakdown of Coat of Arms to be as given in figure 5 and with the background Pantone White

Table 2 – Screen printing requirements

1 2 3

Property

Requirements

Method of Test

Colour fastness to light, min. Change in colour ............................... Colour fastness to water, min. Change in colour of print, min ............ Colour fastness to rubbing of print Dry, min. ............................................ Wet, min. ............................................

5-6

4

4-5 4-5

SANS 105-B02

SANS 11166 Procedure A

SANS 105-X12

Figure 4 – Dimensions of print on right front chest

13.5

cm

10.2 cm

12.5

cm



Figure 5 – Colour breakdown of Coat of Arms

NOTE: The individual black colour-filled areas below depict the relevant application.

Pantone Colour No. 466c “Sand”

Pantone Colour No. 127c “Beige”

Pantone Black

Pantone Colour No. 132c “Light Brown”



Pantone Colour No. 152c “Dark Orange”

Pantone White

Pantone Colour No. 143c “Medium Orange”

Pantone Colour No. 1245c”Butterscotch”



Pantone Colour No. 146c “Brown”

6.9 Threads to comply with relevant requirements of SANS 1362 “Sewing threads”

colour to be an acceptable match to the colour with which it is used

Sewing and top-stitching thread:

polyester-and-cotton core-spun OR staple polyester

ticket No 80 in both cases

Overlocking thread:

crimp-textured polyester OR polyamide

ticket No 140

Pantone Colour No. 188c “Chocolate Brown”



7. Workmanship

The reflective vests shall be: cut and made with first-class workmanship throughout

of uniform and acceptable make, colour and finish

Shall be free from: defects, that affect their appearance or may affect their serviceability (or both)

marks,spots and/or stains incurred in the making-up

Seams and stitches shall be: smooth and uniform

free from twists, pleats and puckers

sufficiently extensible to avoid seam cracking and undue shrinkage in use

Ends of sewing shall be: trimmed and loose threads removed

back-tacked if unsecured

Points not defined in the specification that requires assessing at inspection:

Place the reflective jacket on a dummy and check the following points:

Is the appearance neat and clean?

Is the top-stitching neat?



MEASURING POINT DESCRIPTION

A – A Chest circumference Measure at the base of the scye, with garment spread completely flat, slide fastener closed and multiply by two.

B – B Back length Measure from the centre back neck point to the bottom edge of the garment.

B – C Depth of scye Measure from the centre back neck to a point level with the base of the scye.

A – D Side seam length Measure along the side seam from the base of the scye to the bottom edge of the vest.

8. Sizes and dimensions

A

B

A

B

C

D



Table 3 – Size range

NOTE: The pattern construction shall be done in conjunction with the measurements given in figure 8 for size 3X-Large.

9. Make

Illustrations are not to scale and for guidance only, and unless inconsistent with

the text, all measurements are nominal. 9.1 General The vests shall: be sleeveless have a scooped V-neck be made in three sections

- two front sections - one back section

9.2 Fronts 9.2.1 General each front shall be cut in two panels, i.e. an upper panel and a lower panel to fasten with a slide fastener

to extend from the neck opening to 30 mm above the bottom hem of the jacket front edges of jacket to be folded in 10 mm, stringer positioned behind the folded edge and attached by

means of a 3 mm edge-stitching

1 2 3 4 5

Size

desig-

nation1

Nominal Finished garment measurement, cm

Chest

Circum-

ference

Back length

Depth of scye

Side seam length

X-small 92 58 22.5 35

Small 100 60 23.5 36

Medium 108 62 24.5 37

Large 116 64 25.5 38

X-Large 124 66 26.5 39

XX-Large 132 68 27.5 40

XXX-Large 140 70 28.5 41

1 Based on the chest circumference of the intended wearer.



Figure 6 – Design elements on foreparts 9.2.2 Front upper panel: be of fluorescent yellow knitted fabric

shall each be fitted with a vertical length of reflective tape (see 6.4 and 9.4)

right front upper panel to be screen printed

screen print to comply with the requirements as given in 6.8

positioned with the front edge of the print 45 mm from the front edge of the jacket and 25 mm above the top horizontal reflective tape on size 3-XLarge and graded on smaller sizes to prevent it from interfering with the reflective strips and/or neck opening (see figure 7)

left front upper panel to be fitted with an ID pouch (see 9.5) 9.2.3 Front lower panel: be of fluorescent orange knitted fabric be fitted with two horizontal strips of reflective tape (see 6.4 and 9.4)

Bar-tack

Upper panel

Lower panel

Horizontal retro-reflective strip

Vertical retro-reflective strip

ID pouch

Screen print

Binding

Binding

Slide fastener



Figure 7 – Positioning of screen print and ID pouch on size 3X-Large which shall be graded to prevent it

from interfering with the neck opening and reflective tape

45 m

m

25 mm

90

mm

55 mm



Figure 8 – Finished dimensions on size 3X-Large and shall be graded (where indicated)

9.3 Back be cut as a single panel

be of fluorescent yellow knitted fabric

fitted with a back patch (see 6.5)

patch to be centred between the two vertical reflective strips

41 c

m o

n s

ize 3

X-L

arg

e a

nd

gra

ded

16 cm on size 3X-

Large and graded

21.5 cm on size 3X-Large

and graded

25 mm

20 c

m

34 c

m o

n s

ize

3X

-Larg

e a

nd

gra

ded

53 cm on size 3X-Large

and graded

X

X

90 m

m

90 m

m



attached by means of 2 mm edge-stitching sewn along all edges

positioned 50 mm below the back neck point

shall each be fitted with two vertical lengths of reflective tape (see 6.4 and 9.4)

shall be fitted with two horizontal lengths of reflective tape (see 6.4 and 9.4)

Figure 9 – Positioning of back patch

9.4 Reflective tape 9.4.1 General comply with the requirements as given in 6.4

edge-stitched 2 mm along the side edges

horizontal reflective strips shall be sewn in with the side seams

vertical reflective strips shall be sewn in with the shoulder seam at the one cut end and sewn in behind the upper horizontal reflective strip at the other cut end

vertical strips on the fronts and the vertical strips on the back shall align perfectly at the shoulder seams

horizontal strips on the front and horizontal strips on the back shall align perfectly at the side seams 9.4.2 Front reflective strips to be positioned as given in figure 10 (approximate positions), with provision that “Y” shall never be less than

50 mm 9.4.3 Back reflective strips to align with the reflective strips on the fronts

50 mm

Back patch

X X

Bar-tack



Figure 10 – Positioning of reflective strips

9.5 ID pouch 9.5.1 General positioned on the left upper front to be centred between the front edge of the jacket and the vertical reflective strip positioned as given in figure 7 on size 3 X-Large and graded on the other sizes to prevent the ID pouch from

interfering with the neck opening and/or reflective strips to consist of two layers of PVC, lower layer and upper layer that are heat-sealed together attached by means of a 2 mm edge-stitching along the outer edges and securely finished off be rectangular with rounded corners

9.5.2 Lower layer of black PVC material (see 6.7) of nominal finished length 117 mm of finished width 80 mm

9.5.3 Upper layer of transparent PVC material (see 6.6) to consist of two panels, i.e. a body and flap body of upper layer to be of finished length 100 mm and width 80 mm

rear edge of body to be left unattached to enable an ID card to be inserted flap to be cut with rounded corners and of finished length 30 mm and width 80 mm

front edges of flap to be left unattached to enable an ID card to be inserted

flap to be unattached for a distance of 15 mm

3X 2X

90 mm

90 mm

50 mm

50 mm

Y



Figure 11 – ID pouch

9.6 Neck opening to be bound with contrast colour binding binding shall be one continuous length (no joining sections) binding shall be attached after the shoulder seams have been closed front cut edges shall be cut 20 mm longer, folded to the inside and bar-tacked on top of the binding

attachment stitching (minimum length of bar-tack to be 12 mm) to be as given in figure 8 neck drop to be 20 cm on all sizes

9.7 Armholes to be bound with contrast colour binding binding shall be one continuous length binding shall be attached after the side seams and shoulder seams have been closed joining point shall be at the shoulder point

the overlapping end shall be sewn just past the shoulder seam (towards the back), folded to the inside that no raw edges are visible and bar-tacked on top of the binding attachment stitching

to be as given in figure 8

9.8 Bottom hem to be bound with contrast colour binding binding shall be one continuous length (no joining sections) binding shall be attached after the side seams have been closed front cut edges shall be cut 20 mm longer, folded to the inside and bar-tacked on top of the binding

attachment stitching (minimum length of bar-tack to be 12 mm)

100 mm

117 mm

30 mm

80 mm



10. Stitches, Seams and Stitchings 10.1 Stitches

all stitches: single needle lock stitch

10.2 Seams

Seams shall be as follows: Shoulder and side seams: seam type SSa

Superimpose two or more plies of material and seam with one row of stitches positioned at the specific distance(s) from the aligned edges. Attaching of binding: seam type BSc

Turn in both edges of a binding strip, fold it round the edge of a ply or plies of material, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. Attaching of reflective strips and ID patch: seam type SSau

Superimpose a strip on a ply of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.

10.3 Number of stitches

The determination of sewing stitches per unit length will be done in accordance with SANS 5278 ”Sewing stitches per unit length” All seams and top-stitching: 38 4 per 10 cm

11.1 Labels (applicable to all labels)

be a woven rayon label that is printed

comply with SANS 1309 " Printed labels for textiles”

information to be in legible and indelible block letters of height at least 3 mm

be such that they outlast the garments (including the markings)

11. Garment labels



care instructions may be printed on the back of the loop label, or alternatively sewn in with the side seam

11.2 Garment label

Each label shall include the following information:

be sewn in with the back neck binding

provide the size designation

provide the year of manufacture

provide the manufacturer’s name or trade mark

provide the VAT no of the contractor

provide the country of origin, e.g. “Made in the RSA”

11.3 Care-labelling

Each label shall include the following information:

to provide appropriate care instructions (in accordance with SANS 10011 “Care-labelling of

textile piece-goods, textile articles and clothing”) in words and symbols

provide the fibre composition of the fabric in accordance with the requirements of SANS 10235 “Fibre content labelling of textiles and textile products”

12.1 Packing

12.1.1 The vests shall be:

NOTE: Supplier to remove all sobar labelling on the garments before delivery.

delivered in a commercially dry condition

so packed that they will not be damaged in transit or in storage

individually packed in a plastics envelope of suitable size and shape

unless otherwise specified in the order or contract, acceptably packed for transportation in acceptable bulk containers

12.1.2 Contents of bulk container:

only vests of the same size to be packed in a bulk container

each bulk container shall be packed with the same amount of vests (per consignment), except the last bulk container may be an exception to the rule regarding the quantities

12. Packaging and marking of packaging



12.2 Marking

12.2.1 Plastics envelopes

Each envelope to be clearly marked with the following information:

the item description, e.g.“Reflective vest”

the size designation

12.2.2 Bulk containers

Each bulk container shall have a label securely attached to the outside. This label shall be visible when the containers are stacked and shall provide the information in legible and indelible markings as follows:

the manufacturer's name or trade mark or both

the order number or contract number

the item description, e.g. “Reflective vest”

the quantity of the item

the year of manufacture

the invoice number(s)

the size designation

the total mass of the packed container

the SABS Inspection Certificate Number (if relevant)

number of bulk containers per province, e.g. 1 of 10

12.3 Additional marking

When so required by the South African Revenue Service, vests, envelopes or containers (or any combination of these) to bear information additional to that specified above.



13. Normative References The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this specification. All documents are subject to revision and, since any reference to a document is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of that document, parties to agreements based on this specification are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the documents indicated below. Information on currently valid national, international and CKS documents may be obtained from the South African Bureau of Standards1.

AATCC method 20, Fiber analysis: Qualitative. Available from World Wide Web http://www.aatcc.org/Technical

Test_Methods/scopes/tm20.cfm

SANS 70, Conditioning of textiles and standard temperate atmosphere for determining their physical and

mechanical properties.

SANS 105-B02/ISO 105-B02, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial

light: Xenon arc fading lamp test.

SANS 105-C02/ISO 105-C02, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness Part C02: Colour fastness to washing –

Test 2.

SANS 105-E04, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration.

SANS 105-X12/ISO 105-X12, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing.

SANS 481, Accelerated weathering of textiles – Artificial light and water spray exposure method.

SANS 960, Textiles - Dimensional stability during washing and drying procedures.

SANS 1309, Printed labels for textiles.

SANS 1362, Sewing threads.

SANS 1822, Slide fasteners.

SANS 5278, Sewing stitches per unit length.

SANS 5385, Mass per unit area of conditioned knitted textiles.

SANS 50471, High visibility warning clothing for professional use – test methods and requirements,

SANS 10011, Care-labelling of textiles and clothing.

SANS 10235, Fibre content labelling of textiles and textile products.

SANS 10371, Terms and definitions for clothing.

1 SABS: Tel. +27 (0) 12 4287911

www.sabs.co.za

http://www.aatcc.org/Technical%20Test_Methods/scopes/tm20.cfm

http://www.aatcc.org/Technical%20Test_Methods/scopes/tm20.cfm



ANNEX A

(Normative)

Special conditions of tender

A-1 GENERAL

A-1.1

Unless otherwise stated, the South African Bureau of Standards shall be the inspecting authority.

A-1.2 Three pre-production sample vests of different size designations, shall have been inspected, tested and approved by the inspecting authority before bulk production is commenced. Each one of these sample vests shall be accompanied by a trim chart containing a sample of each component material (as given in 6) and the relevant certificates (if relevant). It shall be the duty of the manufacturer to give adequate notice to the inspecting authority of the availability of these samples.

A-1.3 The vests shall be subject to inspection during the course of manufacture. The inspector shall, during normal working hours, be given all reasonable facilities for carrying out his duties and shall have the right of entry into the contractor's factory and the factory or works of any subcontractor where work on vests supplied to this specification may be in progress

A-1.4 The contractor shall inspect the finished vests for compliance with the specification

before submitting them to the inspecting authority for final inspection.

A-1.5 Before acceptance, the vests shall have been inspected and tested by the inspecting authority and found to comply with the requirements of the specification.

A-2 DOCUMENTATION

One container of each consignment shall be marked “DOCUMENTS” and in addition to the vests, shall contain the following: a) The packaging slip or delivery note; b) where applicable the inspection certificate(s); c) a copy of the invoice containing the following information: - the order number - the financial authority number - a full description of the consignment, i.e., quantity, etc



ANNEX B

(Normative)

CKS 129 Colours

Due to the fact that colours can change over a period of time, any colour standard which has

been registered for a period of SEVEN YEARS or more shall be considered obsolete. These

standards shall then be allocated an archived status (as opposed to current status) and re-

registration shall be required.

NOTE: Before fabric is sent to SABS for colour registration purposes, the successful bidder

shall confirm with SABS whether a submission of fabric is required or not.

A. The following scenarios require a submission of three metres of fabric of each

colour from the successful bidder:

1. A colour standard is archived.

2. First time registration is required (CKS 129 colour number does not exist).

3. Colour swatch stock at the SABS is no longer available.

B. Requirements for the submission of fabric as identified in A:

1. The colour shall be as agreed upon between the South African Revenue Service and

the successful bidder.

2. The fabric shall be used to make new colour swatches which shall be the

responsibility of the SABS.

3. The cost of the three metres of fabric shall be incorporated in the relevant bid

submission.



HISTORY SHEET

VERSION DATE AMENDMENTS CHECKED

NAME INIT.

00.1 March 2016 First draft

00.2 March 2016 Amend outer material table

UNISEX COMBAT CUSTOMS REFLECTIVE … CBCU...Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page No of pages CBCU...

Documents

Transcript of UNISEX COMBAT CUSTOMS REFLECTIVE … CBCU...Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page No of pages CBCU...