Ultratravel Summer 2013

ultratravel

ULTRATRAVEL

AWARDS

FINEST THINGS IN

LUXURY TRAVEL

PlusULTRASAIL YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON WATER

PIERS MORGAN & CELIA WALDENIN NEW YORK

ROGERFEDERER’S GLOBAL ADVENTURES

GWYNETH PALTROW’S

100

A

The Daily Telegraph

SUMMER 2013

For information contact SRL Marketing Ltd on 01753 883265.

To book contact your preferred travel professional.

www.letouessrokresort.com

SPATIMEThe award-winning Spa atGleneagles by ESPA is a sanctuarywithin the hotel offering traditionalspa therapies along with wellnessand alternative therapy treatmentssuch as nutritional advice,osteopathy, naturopathy,acupuncture and personal training.

ULTRATRAVEL PROMOTION

TEE TIME

TEE OFF at the RYDER CUPSince its inception, golf has played a significant role in Gleneagles’ history. Nextyear it is set to host The 2014 Ryder Cup on The PGA Centenary Course, one ofthree championship golf courses on the property—which is regarded as one ofthe finest spectator courses in the world. In addition to the Jack Nicklausdesigned PGA Centenary Course, Gleneagles also boasts The King’s and Queen’sCourses, designed by James Braid, a 9-hole par 3 course and The PGA NationalGolf Academy.

THE GREAT OUTDOORSThe Gleneagles Hotel boasts a rich array of outdoor pursuits in theScottish tradition, including clay target shooting, archery, trout fishing,gundog training and falconry, as well as tennis, swimming, croquet, cyclingand pitch and putt. There’s also an equestrian school on the grounds.

WINE & DINEFrom the grand formality of The

Strathearn to the bustling vibe of Deseo,

from the Michelin Star magnificence of

Andrew Fairlie to the clubby ambience

of the Clubhouse Bar & Grill, Gleneagles

has a restaurant to satisfy all preferences.

THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL is a world-renowned golf resortand spa set on 850 acres of breathtaking Scottish countryside conveniently locatedjust one hour from Glasgow International Airport. If you wish to arrive by train,Gleneagles is the only resort in the country with its own train station, located just 2miles away with a daily train direct from London King’s Cross. Inspired by Scotland’sdramatic natural beauty, the hotel features 232 luxury bedrooms and suites reflectiveof the property’s rich history and heritage, which dates back to 1924.

Only one hour’s drive from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airport anddaily train from London King’s Cross direct to Gleneagles trainstation.Three nights from £990 per room based on two people sharing aSovereign room and including the renowned Gleneagles’ breakfast. To book your stay call 0800 169 2984 or [email protected] or visit www.gleneagles.com

TWO STARS

AT GLENEAGLESWhether it’s enjoying dinner by Andrew Fairlie, the only chef in Scotland

to hold two Michelin stars, or getting to know Nigel, our resident Golden Eagle,

a trip to Gleneagles is always a memorable experience.

We do advise advance booking. Nigel is very popular.

To plan your visit please call 0800 169 2984 and quote "Ultratravel"

The Gleneagles HotelInternet: www.gleneagles.com Email:[email protected] GLENEAGLES words and the EAGLE device are trademarks

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© Telegraph Media Group Limited 2013. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited.

Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited

Features28 Gwyneth Paltrow’s LA The American actress gives the lowdown on the city where she was born, from where

she dines out with Chris Martin to the beaches, bars and shops she frequents

34 Fresh Mauritius The Indian Ocean island has undergone a surge in popularity, thanks to a swathe of new hotels,

gourmet events, spa treatments and activities from skydiving to kite-surfing. Nicki Grihault reports

41 The Ultratravel 100 In our annual awards, we name the 100 finest things in luxury travel – as chosen by you

48 Ultrasail Our 16-page sailing and cruising special begins on board Panthalassa, a 184ft superyacht equipped

with toys ranging from an underwater scooter to a hydraulic swim-platform. Nigel Tisdall joins her in the Caribbean

57 Happy landings The best shore excursions are all about adventure and access to unusual places. Sue Bryant

picks 10 of the best, from camping on the Antarctic ice-shelf to swimming with sea lions

61 Floating collections Some cruise ships rival art galleries for the works on show, says Norman Miller

66 I spy from my little eyrie Our writers check in at six of the finest hotel suites with even finer views

Regulars11 Editor’s letter Charles Starmer-Smith on cruise ships, superyachts and the narrowing gap between them

13 The next big thing Cruising gets cool, plus news from the world of luxury travel, compiled by John O’Ceallaigh

17 Accessories Three pages of essential advice – on beauty, gadgets and fashion

22 Up front with John Simpson The BBC’s world affairs editor finally became a true Paris local when, after

14 years of Sunday lunches, the maître d’ at his favourite restaurant addressed him by name

24 Aficionado The Australian designer Marc Newson reveals what has inspired him on his travels

27 Mr & Mrs In our new series, Celia Walden and Piers Morgan are impressed by wildly different

aspects of a stay in the Empire Suite of the recently refurbished Carlyle hotel in New York

77 Intelligence Countdown to The Cape; the best suites at sea; and a masterclass with Yannick Alléno

82 Travelling life When tennis star Roger Federer goes on holiday, it’s all about sunshine and glorious beaches

CONTENTS

Page 48 Our 16-page cruising and

sailing special features the superyacht

Panthalassa, shot on location for

Ultratravel in St Martin/St Maarten

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The Bluepr inT

The inspir aTion for your Jumeir ah experience every where

Creating the world’s most luxurious hotel made us think differently.

Find your Jumeirah experience at jumeirah.com/experiences

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Editor

Gwyneth Paltrow photographed by Carter Smith/Art+Commerce

Roger Federer

The Swiss tennis star travels

with an entourage of up to

75 – to tournaments, that is.

No wonder he likes his

holidays – with his wife and

young twin daughters – to

be as quiet as possible, on

a peaceful, balmy beach

Adam Parker

Shooting in the Caribbean

for our Ultrasail section, the

well-travelled London-based

photographer got a taste

for life at sea – so much so

that he is making plans to

explore the Mediterranean

by boat this summer

Marc Newson

Japan, hardware stores

and nature fascinate the

Sydney-born designer. His

pet hate? Design hotels. “The

design of a hotel isn’t the

most important thing – what

matters is functionality, and

making guests feel at home”

Aurelia Donaldson

The Telegraph’s online

fashion expert has a perfect

pedigree: her sister is the

model Lily Donaldson and

her father the fashion

photographer Matthew

Donaldson. She styles our

shoot about the English look

ultratravelEditor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Managing editor Andrew Purvis

Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Sub-editor Yolanda Carslaw Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor John O’Ceallaigh Intern Matthew Brant

Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore

Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3239 (Andrew Wiltshire)

Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel

EDITOR’S LETTER

THE LIFE AQUATICIt was the summer of 2005 on the French Riviera and a bevy of

models were giggling as the bachelor son of a shipping magnate held

court on the deck of his new 300ft yacht. I joined in the clinking of

champagne glasses to mark its launch. So far, so St-Tropez. For this vessel

was a head-turner all right. Its name? EasyCruise One.

This was Stelios’s foray into cruising: a glorified ferry with orange

walls, uninspiring food, basic cabins and achingly cheesy entertainment. “How do you become

a millionaire?” he asked, as we neared St-Tropez, then answered: “Be a billionaire and start

a low-cost airline”. He would soon add the phrase “no-frills cruise line” to his favourite joke.

For a first-time cruiser like me, the bar had been set pretty low. Fast forward eight years and

I found myself on board another vessel. This time, it was the son of a property magnate taking

centre stage – a Cosmopolitan in hand, a pop singer on his arm and an audience hanging on his

every word. As we cruised around the bay of St-Tropez, beautiful staff in preppy outfits whizzed

about the teak decks dispensing G&Ts. We dropped anchor and the requisite “boys’ toys”

were brought out, the music was turned up and the air was filled with jet-spray and squeals.

A tender arrived to whisk us ashore for a long, rosé-fuelled lunch at Nikki Beach.

It was a brief flirtation with the world encountered by Nigel Tisdall on the superyacht

Panthalassa in the Caribbean (page 48) – and what’s not to like? But my point is this: the gap

between cruise ships and yachts is not so yawning. Stelios had misjudged the mood. Passengers

want more, not less – and they are prepared to pay. Ships have had to become more like yachts:

smaller and sleeker, with facilities to match. The buffet is out, Michelin-starred chefs are in;

for bingo, cards and shuffleboard, read boutiques, cinemas and spas. Staff often outnumber

passengers, suites have become ever more sophisticated and that Matisse on the wall (page 61)

is probably an original. Then there is the access a cruise gives to unique adventures ashore, from

hot-air ballooning over the North Pole to helicopter rides above active volcanoes (page 57).

Welcome to the summer issue of Ultratravel, your guide to heaven on earth – and water.

CONTRIBUTORS

Smooth waters The pool and

bamboo stand at Norwood House,

on the Tea Trails

estate, Sri Lanka (page 54)

New wave The renovated

Constance Le Prince Maurice

in Mauritius (page 34)

Celia Walden

For a new series,

Mr&Mrs, the Telegraph

columnist and her

husband, Piers Morgan,

checked into The

Carlyle, New York. While

she was entranced by

the views and the

bedside Ladurée

macaroons, for him

it was all about the

nine televisions

FOR THE

LATEST IN

LUXURY TRAVEL

telegraph.co.uk/ultratravel

Ever since the discovery

that the world was round, travellers have

been fascinated by the idea of circumnavigating it. Now,

Captain’s Choice offer you the opportunity to make this once-

in-a-lifetime journey in the comfort and luxury of our private jet. Freed

from the constraints of scheduled transport, this 21 day itinerary lets you

explore the world’s most iconic and exotic places in a style which would simply

not be possible otherwise. You will travel aboard our spacious jet, stay at the finest

hotels and enjoy gourmet dining, with your every need taken care of by an experienced

escort team which includes a tour doctor. Taking off from London, you will head west

across the Atlantic to Merida, in Mexico, gateway to the ancient Mayan city of Chichen Itza.

Your second stop is vibrant Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, alive with the rhythms of the Samba. Then

it’s a short flight to one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls, Iguassu falls. Heading out over

the Pacific, you’ll touch down on remote Easter Island, dotted with its almost 800 mysterious

Moai statues. Tahiti, the spectacularly beautiful island nation is your next destination, before your

flight across the international dateline to Australia. Here, you’ll land in Sydney, often described as

one of the world’s favourite cities. Climb the harbour bridge, or simply marvel at the iconic

Opera House from your hotel window. After a three night stay you’ll head north aboard your

private jet to Cambodia where you will visit the astonishing temple site of Angkor Wat.

Then it’s onward to India, and a stay in Agra, with a view of one of the world’s most iconic

buildings, the Taj Mahal, from your bedroom window. The final leg of this incredible

journey takes you to Africa, for a stay in the Serengeti National Park, with its

breathtaking scenery and fascinating wildlife. Then, boarding your private jet

for the last time, you’ll fly back to London with memories of your trip

that will last a lifetime. Captain’s Choice Circumnavigation of the

Globe tour departs in March 2015. You can start your

journey today by calling for a brochure or

by visiting our website.

CirCumnavigation of the globe

a t r u lY e X C e P t i o n a l l u X u r Y t o u r , b Y P r i v at e J e t

Simply the fineSt way to See the world

Call 0845 304 7192 www.CaPtainsChoiCe.Co.uk/roundtheworld

m e X i C o b r a Z i l e a s t e r i s l a n d ta h i t i a u s t r a l i a C a m b o d i a i n d i a a f r i C a

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COMPILED BY JOHN O’CEALLAIGH

Cruising gets cooler – and we predict what will come next; plus, overleaf, more news from the world of luxury travel

4

It’s time to relinquish outdated notions

about bland buffets, dull days at sea and

cheesy cabaret acts. Discerning cruise

passengers can now enjoy exceptional

spa treatments, cuisine prepared by world-class

chefs and enrichment programmes led by

renowned experts. But while cruising has

undoubtedly undergone a sea change, still more

could be done to encourage travellers to try this

often maligned type of holiday. Here, we look

at some of the best innovations and suggest

how they might be used as a springboard

to make cruising even more appealing.

XTHE LIFE AQUATIC

The Reflection Suite on Celebrity Reflection has

a pioneering feature: a cantilevered, glass-walled

shower suspended over the ocean. This month,

when Princess Cruises launches Royal Princess,

among the ship’s novelties will be the SeaWalk –

a looped, glass-bottomed walkway hovering 128ft

above the water. What we would like to see

next, for guests sequestered in windowless

cabins, are digital portholes broadcasting footage

of the seascape surrounding the ship, with live

feeds and documentary reels ensuring that no

guest misses out on the sea life swimming by.

YVIRTUAL DESTINATIONS

Royal Caribbean’s Oasis of the Seas invigorated

the cruise experience with Central Park, a green

space with more than 12,000 trees, plants, vines

and flowers. Dense with tropical foliage and

seasonal blooms, it is an incongruous but

welcome addition to the ship. Celebrity Cruises,

meanwhile, employs full-time lawnkeepers on

Solstice Class ships to groom and water half an

acre of growing grass, on which guests can play

boules, lounge on rugs and drink Pimm’s. Other

companies should consider following suit with

settings that surprise, delight and inform while

breaking up the endless sea views. We’d like to

see themed gardens in the style of the Chelsea

Flower Show and habitats that replicate some of

those visited for just a few short hours on land.

ZCOMFORT CONSOLES

Scenic Tours river ships feature inside-outside

balconies which, using a one-touch control, can

be converted into a covered lounging area should

blustery weather strike. It’s a relatively simple

way to make passengers more comfortable in

their cabins, but we would like to see cruise lines

go farther by introducing personalised comforts.

How about in-room Kindles pre-loaded with

those books guests have never quite got round

to reading? A fingerprint-recognition keypad that

does away with the annoyance of losing room

cards? Or extras tailored to a guest’s tastes –

a bouquet of favourite flowers, say, or a certain

type of scented candle. These little touches

should make passengers feel as though they

have arrived at a home from home, and are

travelling with a company that recognises

and values their individuality.

[DESIGNER DECKS

On Solstice Class ships operated by Celebrity

Cruises, the thoughts of diners inevitably turn

to (ordering more) drink when they see the

imposing two-storey wine tower designed by

Adam Tihany, who created the interiors for the

Mandarin Oriental in Las Vegas, the Shangri-la

in Singapore and Aureole restaurant in New York.

Further partnerships with sought-after designers

could help modernise the image of cruising and

broaden its appeal. Why not follow the example

set by airlines, with lounges and public areas

conceived by high-profile interior decorators,

or signature suites created by credible

designers? Carpets updated by Christian Lacroix

and bed linens by Karl Lagerfeld would be a hit.

\GETAWAY VEHICLES

Even the most spacious cruise ship can feel

constricting, so we would welcome more

imaginative opportunities to explore beyond

their perimeter. Lindblad Expeditions’ National

Geographic Endeavour already entices

adventurers with its ROV, a remote-operated

vehicle that can descend to 1,000ft. Introducing

miniature submarines which can dive for longer

and accommodate more people could be the

next step for cruise lines. Larger ships,

meanwhile, should follow the lead of smaller

vessels and add helipads. A private jaunt to

a deserted island could be a popular extra with

guests willing to hire an on-board helicopter –

a memorable and intimate escape that would

be perfect for anyone planning a proposal.

1

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theNEXTBIGTHING

5

Clear thinking SeaWalk,

a looped, glass-bottomed

walkway (far left) on Royal

Princess. Left: a glass

wine tower designed by

Adam Tihany, a feature

on Celebrity Solstice shipsILLU

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COMPILED BY JOHN O’CEALLAIGH

53

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The horse meat scandal caused

consternation for those of us who

discovered that, all this time, our

lasagne was equine, not bovine, but

it has also provoked wider examination of

what we eat. Luxury retreats are expected to

serve quality produce, but a growing number

are now focusing on provenance. One trend is

for customers to be served “hyper-local”

food, another for them to procure the

ingredients for their meals themselves.

Manhattan is an unlikely source for fresh,

natural produce, but guests at the mid-range

Nyma hotel can book a foraging tour led by

“Wildman” Steve Brill (above). The naturalist

guides visitors through New York’s green

spaces in search of edible bark, berries and

leaves. In Florence, guests at Villa La Massa

can join the hotel’s trifolau and his truffle-

hunting dog in search of the elusive tartufo

bianco (white truffle). At The Sarojin,

Thailand, residents who book the “catch, cook

and dine” package can fish for snapper using

a traditional line, before being taught about

local cuisine by the resort’s executive chef.

Too much effort? It may be sufficiently

reassuring to know that your chosen

destination has its own farm. In Turkey, the

Dionysos Estate hotel sources its wine, olive

oil, fruit and vegetables from an organic farm

just up the mountain. In central Toronto,

meanwhile, the Fairmont Royal York (below)

has developed a rooftop garden with six

beehives housing 350,000 honeybees.

The resident animal at El Encanto in

California is Ellie the cow, whose milk is used

to make the hotel’s cheese. However, don’t

get too attached to the cute Javan rusa deer

found on the Domaine de Bel Ombre

estate in Mauritius. Come culling season, they

are slaughtered and served in the estate’s

two five-star resorts, Heritage Le Telfair

and Heritage Awali. Anyone with an

appetite for butchery, however, can join a

cooking class, called “A pig in a day”, at Alila

Ubud in Bali. Participants learn how to divide

a pig into five cuts, before making chorizo,

bacon, sausages and ham from the carcass.

ONtrend:

HYPER-LOCAL DINING

z DRIVE AN F1 CAR AT SELFRIDGES

Occupying a palazzo dating from the 16th century,

the first Italian outpost of Aman Resorts, Aman

Canal Grande Venice (below), opens this month.

With just 24 suites, social areas reserved exclusively

for resort guests, and two private gardens, the

property should provide a peaceful refuge for visitors

to the city during the Venice Biennale, which runs until

November. For a weekend break closer to home, the

“beyond-boutique” hotel Brimstone, on the Langdale

Estate in the Lake District, also opens in June. In July,

The Langham, Chicago is set to open downtown

in a 52-storey tower designed by Mies van der Rohe.

Meanwhile, a new base for exploring the cultural

offerings of St Petersburg can be found from August,

when the city’s new Four Seasons hotel

opens within a 19th-century Russian royal palace.

NEW HOTELS FOR SUMMER

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For some time, 3D printing has been used

to make objects – from vases to a nylon

gown for Dita Von Teese (left). Now the

race is on to construct the world’s first

3D-printed house. DUS Architects in

the Netherlands is attempting to build

a full-sized canal house in Amsterdam,

using an enormous purpose-built

printer to create the plastic components

that will form the structure. The firm

hopes the building’s facade will be

erected by the end of this year.

FOR THE LATEST IN

LUXURY TRAVEL

telegraph.co.uk/ultratravel

In the last issue of Ultratravel, we reported

on celebrations in Italy marking

Lamborghini’s 50th anniversary. This year is

also the 100th birthday of Aston Martin, which

announced the milestone by hoisting its new

Vanquish model on to the cantilevered helipad

of Dubai’s Burj Al Arab hotel (right). Back on

home soil, the party continues with an

appropriately British series of never-to-be-

repeated events. Convoys of Aston Martins

will tour the most beautiful routes in England

and Scotland and a week of events at the

company’s headquarters in Warwickshire will

include exhibitions, factory visits and design

master classes. On July 21, the celebrations

culminate in Kensington Gardens with the

largest gathering of Aston Martins in history.

Ensconced in its second century, Selfridges still sets trends in

retail. From June 24, the department store’s Wonder Room will

house a Mercedes AMB Petronas F1 simulator car and virtual

wind tunnel – a first in UK retail – to rouse shoppers left

catatonic by the demands of Oxford Street. Sponsored by IWC

Schafhausen, the three-week event will also show the watch

brand’s entire Ingenieur collection for the first time.

theNEXTBIGTHING

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At its most mineral-rich, seawater can stave off the

effects of ageing and help repair chronic skin conditions

such as psoriasis. But the sea is also tough on skin and hair,

especially when combined with a drying wind and a baking

sun. Water reflects 10 per cent of ultraviolet rays, and sea

foam 25 per cent – so, although a day on (and in) the sea

is invigorating, it is a challenge to reap the benefits without

the drawbacks of parched, burnt, sore skin and hair as dry as

straw. On board a boat, you need high-performance

products that don’t wash off each time you dive in and

are easily absorbed, so you don’t slip around on deck.

Sea defences

1 Beaute Waterproof Mascara by Paul&Joe, £19 (beautybay.com). 2 Shiseido Sun Protection

Lip Treatment SPF20 £20 (houseoffraser.com). 3 Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Balm by

Clarins, £18 (clarins.co.uk). 4 Swimcap hair conditioner by Philip Kingsley, £20 (philipkingsley.

co.uk). 5 Prosport SPF35 waterproof sunscreen £17.99 (prosportsunscreen.co.uk).

5“

“

2

4

5 Use a sunscreen that is waterproof, sweat-proof and

quickly absorbed, with a broad-spectrum SPF of at

least 30. Prosport SPF35 is the choice of pro surfers

because it ticks all these boxes and needs to be

applied only once for a full eight hours’ protection.

2 Sunscreens formulated for the face provide protection

and contain antioxidants, said to reduce the signs of

ageing. Some have a cosmetic benefit, too: Shiseido

Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF20 is opaque

white and can also be used on the cheeks and nose.

1 If you can’t be without glossy lashes, even in or on

the water, opt for a waterproof conditioning mascara

such as Beaute Waterproof Mascara by Paul&Joe.

For an overnight treatment, open a vitamin-E capsule

and stroke its contents on your lashes with a Q-tip.

3 Lips can chap quickly on a boat; first they need

protection, then a hint of colour. Instant Smooth

Crystal Lip Balm, by Clarins, provides both; apply

it direct to your lips or over a layer of sunscreen.

4 Keep your hair protected from sea air, salt and UV

rays by applying a protective conditioner. Swimcap,

by Philip Kingsley, was originally made for the US

Olympic synchronised swimming team. Use it as

a regular conditioner, too, after washing your hair.

31

Sailing, surfing, snorkelling or simply

taking a cooling dip can wreak havoc on

skin and hair. Kate Shapland gives

advice on protection that won’t wash off

ULTRAbeauty


ULTRA

1 Lace loafer £100 (0161 222 8048, swims.com). A mix of grippy boat-shoe and stylish loafer, this rubber and nylon slip-on, by Swims, is equally at home on the beach or on deck. A water-resistant exterior keeps

splashes at bay, and ventilation slits allow the feet to breathe. 2 Jet ski customised by Venom Design £28,999, from Harrods (020 7730 1234). Whether jet skiers want to modify an existing craft or spec up a new

one, Venom Design will give it the tech trim. This Sea-Doo model has a waterproof phone, leather upholstery and an iPod sound system. 3 Pentax WG3-GPS camera £329 (0870 736 8299, pentax.co.uk). Waterproof

to 46ft, this rugged compact has a fast F2.0 lens for sharp underwater snaps. A shake-reduction system helps prevent motion blur and its built-in GPS records the position, time and underwater depth of each picture.

4 Soundshooter speaker £40 (0800 048 0408, store.apple.com/uk). This palm-sized Bluetooth speaker, by Philips, is ideal for explosive outdoor tunes. It hooks to a belt or bag with a carabiner, has enough battery

life to play eight hours of music, and a microphone enabling hands-free calls via a smartphone. 5 Seamaster PloProf 1,200m £6,150 (0845 272 3100, omegawatches.com). Omega’s indestructible and pioneering

1970 classic has had an update: additions include an ultra-accurate movement and a security button for locking the bezel on deep dives. 6 Archimedes wetsuit £495 (01322 605601, huubdesign.com/shopuk).

Designed for open-water swimming, this Huub wetsuit is the choice of the Olympic triathlon champion Alistair Brownlee. Support zones keep the body well aligned in the water and there is a speedy one-pull zipper.

Goingcommando

For summer manoeuvres in, on or under the water, deploy some shockproof technology, says Mark Wilson

7 Kayak 1 £10,100 (mclellanjacobs.com). Made from carbon

fibre by a team of America’s Cup boat-builders, this solo

kayak has gold-plated fittings, teak detailing and a tough,

UV-resistant finish. Other features can be made to order.

21 3

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Holidays off to a tea

“ The art of dressing for the summer

social season lies in the understated

detail, writes Aurelia Donaldson.

Instead of loud, bright look-at-me

dresses, opt for delicate pastel hues

and sugar-sweet shades of yellow, blue

and pink. Keep the accessories playful

but minimal: a clutch that makes people

look twice, or a killer pair of heels to

match your ladylike dress. Perfecting

your garden-party etiquette now means

that, when abroad, you will be more

English rose than English tourist

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Ria dress £2,380, by Erdem (erdem.co.uk). Malory high-heel pumps £375, by Rupert Sanderson (020 7491 2260, rupertsanderson.com).

Cosmos pendant £175, by Astley Clarke Biography (020 7706 0060, astleyclarke.com). Moonstone ring £195, by Astley Clarke Colour (as before).

Left: Blue Scent clutch bag £795, by Charlotte Olympia (020 7499 0145, charlotteolympia.com).

Shot for Ultratravel on the croquet lawn at The Goring (thegoring.com), holder of the British Tea Guild Council 2013 Top London Afternoon Tea Award

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOE PLIMMER

ULTRAfashion


walks past. Still, our street has been, if not

gentrified (it has always been full of the

elderly upper-middle characters whom my

left-wing friends call, disparagingly,

“collabos”, short for collaborators) then

upgraded to the 21st century – by which

I mean more corporate. When jewellery or

hat shops close, they are replaced by

estate agents or banks. (Not by chemists,

though. The French being a nation of

automedicators, there are three within

100 yards.) Six estate agents and five banks

have set up around us, outnumbered only

(thank God) by eating places.

The excellent restaurant on the corner

recently awarded me its customer

equivalent of a rosette. I’ve been booking

tables for Sunday lunch there ever since

we arrived in the quartier, and each time

I’ve had to spell out my name laboriously –

until a few weeks ago, when the maitre

d’ said, “Merci, Monsieur Simpson.”

After 14 years, apparently I exist.

But the restaurant is now very

expensive. It doubled its prices after

President Sarkozy, a long-time fan, advised

President Barack Obama to take his family

there. The Obamas’ arrival was the biggest

thing that’s happened to our street since

the last aristos were guillotined on the

Champ de Mars. Twenty cars filled with

not very secret servicemen shut off the

entire block; suited, brawny characters

installed themselves in every shop.

Except – no surprise, this – for Lilac’s.

“Get out of my shop, you gorilla,” she

yelled in her sort-of English. “If you touch

me I’ll charge you with rape.” The brawny

suit knew she meant it, and stood outside

all dinner long. I miss Lilac. Her old beauty

salon was recently bought by a bank.

If you did Latin at school, you will

remember there are certain words

which expect the answer “No”.

Nowadays there are certain

questions which expect the answer

“Ahhh”, uttered in praise and envy. For

instance: “Where do you live?” “Cape

Town.” “Ahhh…” There’s a big difference

if you reply “Johannesburg”, which

expects the answer “Ummm…”, said in

commiseration, though in my opinion

Jo’burg is a sharper and more lively place

than Cape Town, with a nicer climate.

Paris is an archetypical “Ahhh…” place

to live. Sure, it isn’t what it was when I first

went there, in the early 1960s, but where

is? Rome? Please. New York? Come off it.

London? Well, yes: London is a lot better.

But Paris is still what we always longed for

it to be, the day before we first went there.

I’ve been a part-time Parisian for 14

years. Our small flat is in one of those long

streets which run along the Left Bank

parallel to the Seine and fetch up at the

Champ de Mars. If the Eiffel Tower fell

down, its radio mast would just flick the

roof of our mid-19th-century building.

Ownership makes us feel like locals,

and it’s not been a bad investment.

Sometimes, though, it’s been a burden; in

2003, when I reported on the invasion of

Iraq and got blown up by the Americans,

I didn’t visit Paris from January to April,

and neither did my wife. So we missed

seeing the letter from the council warning

that if we didn’t pay our rates (which we’d

forgotten about) they’d come and seize

our possessions to the required value. And

indeed a Swat team from the town hall

duly turned up, armed with a battering

ram, to grab their due. Fortunately, the

lady who runs the rugby-and-gastronomy

shop opposite – a delightful person, as you

might expect – phoned our concierge, who

phoned a friend, who very kindly wrote a

cheque. Our front door stayed unbattered.

The rugby-and-gastronomy lady is one

of the few survivors from the period of our

arrival. Other shops that made the quarter

a joy to live in have faltered and changed

hands. Her neighbour was an eccentric

called Lilac, whose beauty salon, car, dogs,

clothes and hair were all coloured

a lightish purple, and who spent one

evening a week singing at a nightclub.

She wrote her own songs, which were

heavy with sexy deep breathing and rather

arty, if thin on words. My favourite, which

she used to sing to me, was “Proust at

Cabourg”, Cabourg being the lovely little

Norman seaside resort where the

madeleine king spent his downtime. That

was actually the entire song; she just

repeated the phrase over and over again.

Many other businesses have gone now:

the antique shop, the handyman shop, the

flower shop where I used to buy peonies

for my wife and which was run by two

charming elderly gay men, both wearing

ill-fitting wigs. They had a large old dog of

indeterminate breed whose smell

outclassed even that of the flowers, and

a huge aviary filled with noisy, irritated

little birds. My son, now seven, used to

clamour to go with me. Today a pleasant

young couple have taken on the place, but

it’s not the same: no birds, no bad smell,

no hairpieces, just quick, efficient service.

My kid isn’t interested any more.

Fortunately the fin-de-siècle bakery is

still going, as is the chicken-rôtisseur who

makes approving noises when my wife

Even in the quiet, civilised Parisian district where he has a second home, the BBC veteran can’t help uncovering stories

The Obamas’ arrival was the biggest thing

that’s happened to our street since the

last aristos were guillotined

on the Champ de Mars

“e Obam

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JOHN SIMPSON


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MARC NEWSON DESIGNERThe enriched light and colour of India, old tools in a hardware shop, zooplankton and Japanese connectedness have shaped his vision

When, as a young boy, Marc Newson

(right) discovered the space-age

Jetsons – 1960s comic-book

characters who zipped around in

perfectly-formed aerocars – the

Australian knew what he wanted to do: design futuristic

products. Today, in addition to more static designs such as

his Orgone Stretch sofa (far right), he has created the highly

mobile Kelvin40 personal jet (commissioned by the

Fondation Cartier in Paris), the limited-edition Aquariva boat

(above) and the seats and interiors for the Qantas A380.

Since conceiving his beaten-aluminium Lockheed

Lounge chaise-longue in 1986, he has spent about half his

life travelling around the world, both as a designer and as

a judge in international competitions such as the Cartier

Concours d’Elegance in Mumbai. Although most of his

journeys have been in first class, he says he yearns “to

travel in the way I used to when I was younger. Then, there

was always time to chill and explore the environment and

do whatever activity was right for that place. I used to ski

like a maniac for about 25 days a year, and go surfing,

hiking and camping. Now ‘travelling’ means sitting on

planes” – often, on the Qantas seats he designed himself.

‚‚

In a new city, I’ll often wander into a hardware

shop; you can tell a lot about a culture from its

hardware. Most things we use which have been

“designed” are hideous. Yet, in a local DIY

merchant’s shop in Vietnam, you’ll find a perfect

little old tool that is beautiful as well as functional.

There are a few hundred master

craftsmen in Japan whose skills are

so valuable the government has

deemed them national living treasures.

When you visit the temples in Kyoto,

you realise why. One craftsman might

do only a certain type of woodwork,

another might make blades for

a very specific type of sword, or

tie-dye cloth in a very special way.

The Japanese have retained ancient

crafts and skills that we have lost.

I love cars, and I have several: a 1950s Ferrari, an Aston Martin in a weird

celadon green, an acid-green 1969 Lamborghini… The feeling of freedom,

whizzing through beautiful countryside in a beautiful old car, is like nothing else.

When I was designing my Nike

Zvezdochka shoe [a mesh

bootie with a perforated

outer shell], one thing that

influenced me was

a microscopic water

creature called a radiolarian

(left). The more you look at

nature, the more you realise

how perfect it is. Need a new

pattern? Get out the microscope. Want

a great green? Look at some leaves.

Nowhere do you get to

experience colour in quite

the same way as you do in

India – except, perhaps, in

Oz. The light enriches that

deep blue of the skies and

reflects on the sea, making

you look at things in

different ways. In Oz, the

light brings out the beauty

of the landscapes; in India,

it brings out the beauty of

the people: their saris,

their food, their spices.

My pet hate is design hotels.

I can’t tell you how much

I hate them. What their

creators fail to realise is that,

even if you are a designer,

the design of a hotel isn’t

the most important

thing. What matters is

making guests feel like

they are at home –

that, and functionality.

My spiritual birthplace is Japan. Its food

is connected to its Shinto temples

(right), its engineering to its flower

arranging. As a designer, I respond to

that – that there’s a thread linking it

all makes sense. It gives it a soul.

When I arrive there, I feel I’m home.

†

‚‚

§

AF IC IONADO

BEYOND

EXPECTATION

If you wanted everything

you already had at home,

you wouldn’t have traveled

halfway around the globe.

Legendary tea service

that reflects your personal

tastes and our local flavors,

one of the many reasons why.

stregis.com

©2010–2013 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its afliates.

a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world’s finest hotels & resorts.

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QUEEN ELIZABETH

SOUTHAMPTON TO SAN FRANCISCO

28 NIGHTS FROM £3,329pp*

10 JAN 2014

Revel in the iconic sights of New York, before taking in Aruba’s Oranjestad, with its timeless Caribbean charm. The epic journey continues through the Panama Canal and the lush

rainforest of Puntarenas before arriving at San Francisco.

ON BOARD SPENDING MONEY $420 PER STATEROOM†

Q403, FLIGHT INCLUDED, IC GRADE

Wave farewell to the Big Apple and set sail for the serenity of the Caribbean’s exotic Aruba and Costa Rica. Then it’s off to the breathtaking Panama Canal and the rainforest-rich

Puntarenas before your final stop in San Francisco.


Q403, FLIGHTS INCLUDED, IC GRADE

Indulge in classic Cunard White Star Service as you majestically cross the Atlantic, calling at The Azores, before continuing your amazing adventure to thriving

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Rediscover your sense of adventure on a Transatlantic Crossing, or alternatively taking in the superb sights of North and South America. Sailing on board one of our iconic Queens, you’ll visit celebrated landmarks like the Panama Canal, the Golden Gate Bridge and the stunning New York Skyline. By day, you’ll enjoy the great sights of this exciting continent.

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*Vantage fares shown are per person based on two adults sharing an IC Grade inside stateroom on Queen Elizabeth (Q403) and Queen Victoria (V402) and include fl ight(s), subject to availability. For terms and conditions please refer to the World & Exotic Voyages 2014 brochure. Further information can also be found on www.cunard.co.uk. The brochure contains full descriptions of the voyages, stateroom accommodation and itinerary details, as well as important information on passport, visa and health requirements and booking conditions, which you must read before booking. †On board spending money is per stateroom and varies by voyage duration, is based on the number of nights spent on board and applies to the fi rst two guests sharing a stateroom.

Thank you to Ultra Travel readers for voting Cunard their favourite cruise line every year for the past seven years.

To fi nd out more visit cunard.co.uk/ultra, or call our Voyage Experts on 0843 373 4097.Alternatively contact your Travel Agent.

QUEEN VICTORIA

SOUTHAMPTON TO FORT LAUDERDALE


2 JAN 2014

QUEEN ELIZABETH

NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO


18 JAN 2014

BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE 2013

SPOTLIGHT AMERICAS

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She appreciates art, spas and salads; he obsesses about football, Twitter and carbs. Is there anything they agree about at The Carlyle?

As someone who once spent two years living at

the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles,

I consider myself something of a “details

man” when it comes to hotels. As with cars,

women and houses, they need to tick all the

right boxes to have any chance of longevity.

(I actually used that phrase when announcing to friends, in

front of Celia, two days after our first date, that I was going

to marry her. She called it “the most repugnant phrase

I’ve ever heard” but walked down the aisle four years later.)

Give me a spacious, clean, quiet suite with super-fast

service and working gadgets and I’m happy. Substitute

cramped surroundings, dirt, delays on the breakfast order

(when Celia’s early-morning sugar levels are already low),

no internet signal or, God forbid, a broken TV remote and

I quickly resemble Michael Douglas in Falling Down.

The Carlyle’s absurdly luxurious three-bedroom Empire

Suite ticked just about every box imaginable.

Watching my 15-month-old daughter munching

gluttonously on her first (complimentary) caviar blini,

while wearing her bespoke robe embroidered with “ELISE”

(mine had my Twitter address @piersmorgan – now

that’s what I call detail…) made me laugh out loud. As

did the motorised loo seats that both warmed and rose at

the flick of a switch. The nine TVs, Apple computer and

giant telescope were all entertaining diversions from my

wife’s pseudo-Brian Sewell impression as she studied the

impressive art and dementedly recited the spa menu.

Ah, yes, the spa. I’ll confess, I hate the damn things.

I see no real joy in sitting for 90 minutes, listening to

Belgian airport music, while someone cracks my scapulas.

But I subjected myself to a hammam. It didn’t hurt, and

I whiled away the time silently choosing my all-time-great

left-footed Arsenal team, so not entirely squandered. “Your

skin will feel amazing,” said my therapist. Like I cared…

For dinner, we ventured to Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto,

a few blocks away, on the recommendation of actor Josh

Charles from The Good Wife. “Best food in New York,”

he ventured, “and best-kept secret.” Celia tried to order

a salad, but I was having none of it. Instead I ordered us

baked oysters, octopus, bresaola, rigatone and eggplant,

roasted scallops, chef/owner Cesare Casella’s signature

pork chops, beef tenderloin, and a variety of exquisitely

cooked mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, Tuscan fries and

beans, followed by a Limoncello dessert and Italian

cheeses. It’s a fabulous menu. Trust me, I ate it all.

Later, in bed, Celia murmured: “My God, your skin feels

extraordinary…” I still didn’t care. (You think Clark Gable

ever cared about his skin?) But I did care about the pillows,

which were – unlike the sumptuous bed itself – hard and

uncomfortable. A firm non-box-ticking offence in my book.

However, as Salvador Dali said: “Have no fear of perfection;

you’ll never reach it.” The Carlyle tries very hard.

Celia Walden and Piers Morgan

stayed at The Carlyle, New York (001 212 744

1600, rosewoodhotels.com). The Empire Suite

costs from $15,000 (about £9,800) per night.

“Watching my daughter munching on her first caviar

blini in her bespoke Elise robe made me laugh out loud” Piers

HE SAYS

MR & MRS MORGAN

SHE SAYS

Look up as much as you can,” one New Yorker

once urged me, “but for God’s sake, don’t ever

look down.” Clearly this guy has never seen the

view from the Empire Suite at The Carlyle hotel.

From the lofty confines of the 2,600sqft duplex –

occupying half of the 28th and 29th floors of the

recently renovated art-deco hotel – I’m rather enjoying

looking down. I’m high up enough to be spared sightings of

the city’s miniature schnauzer-sized rats, but the affluent

inhabitants of Manhattan’s gold coast remain just visible,

pleasing pinpricks beneath me. There are penthouses

overlooking Central Park that I never imagined existed,

castles on rooftops and, above Madison Avenue, two people

are exchanging their wedding vows 50 floors high in the sky.

“Isn’t that the most romantic thing you’ve ever seen?”

I sigh from behind the antique telescope provided in the

first of our two sitting rooms. My husband grunts. I know

that grunt. It’s the grunt of a man checking out technological

artillery. The grunt of a man staring at one of our nine (yes,

nine) flat-screen TVs, with a remote control in each hand.

I throw him an accusatory look. “It is romantic,” he assures

me, flicking through the sports channels. I spot iridescent

black beads at the corners of his mouth, blini crumbs on the

art-deco coffee table and what I suspect is a half-finished

glass of our complimentary champagne. “Did you start the

Beluga and vintage Dom without me?” He knows distraction

tactics are the only resort after a faux pas of this magnitude.

“Did you check out the Cubist paintings upstairs?” he

stammers. “And don’t forget we’ve got our spa treatments

later…” My husband doesn’t care about either of these

things, but he caught me admiring the art earlier and he

knows I can’t wait to be turned into a Park Lane Princess

by some dulcet-toned aesthetician.

A 90-minute Sisley intense-hydration facial with

Antonina Dutu, the hotel’s lead therapist, leaves me feeling

just that. I’ve got their expensive-looking skin ($325 worth),

the kind where the pores themselves appear to have been

sieved out. I’ve developed their attitude, too. I want to go

and bark at shop assistants on Fifth, complain about the

size of the olives in my dirty martini down at the legendary

Belemans Bar and move a salad around my plate at the

new Upper East Side hotspot Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto.

Of course the salad was never going to happen – not with

the husband’s carbicidal tendencies. Three hours, two

tasting menus and a Tums tablet later, I am lying on my

2,000-threadcount Frette sheets thinking how worrying

it is that, after the initial kick, extreme luxury just feels

right. It seems natural, and so right, for there to be a box of

Ladurée macaroons on my bedside table, a monogrammed

pillow beneath my head and an extensive breakfast menu

ticked and hanging on our front door. But my husband’s

freakishly smooth skin? I won’t tell him, but that feels

wrong on pretty much every level.

‚‚‚

‚‚‚


Gwyneth Paltrow, the creative director of Goop,

takes Ultratravel on a tour of her favourite Los Angeles

haunts following the launch of her new city guides app

AMyCONFIDENTIAL

LAA

LCKI8KI8M<C��

Open house Shutters on the

Beach, Gwyneth Paltrow’s

favourite hotel in Los Angeles

LCKI8KI8M<C��

LOS ANGELES HAS THE QUALITY OF HOME. I FIND IT DEEPLY TRANQUIL. BUT I’VE HAD A LOVE-HATE AFFAIR WITH THE CITY

Gwyneth on Goop ”We designed the app to be

like a bookshelf, and I am effectively a curator”

MY JET LAG CURE

As soon as I arrive in LA after a long flight, I head

to the Be Hive of Healing (behiveofhealing.com),

a holistic healing centre in Santa Monica, to see

Dr Habib Sadeghi, the founder. He gives me an IV

[intravenous therapy] full of vitamins, which is

incredible. The lymphatic massage treatment helps

with jet lag, too: they wrap you in a blanket and you

sweat out impurities. Dr Sadeghi has also changed

my life in terms of allergy testing and food.

MY BIG BREAKFAST

I usually make breakfast for the family at the

weekend, but when I do go out, one of my

favourite places is Hal’s Bar&Grill (halsbarand

grill.com) on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. Its

eggs Benedict is delicious, and it also has nightly

jazz. The Hotel Bel-Air (hotelbelair.com) has

a really good brunch; you sit outside, which is

lovely. Huckleberry (huckleberrycafe.com) in

Santa Monica is fantastic for breakfast, especially

on Sundays. But for the best coffee and muffins, go

to Caffe Luxxe (caffeluxxe.com). I also love Peet’s

coffee (peets.com), which is a West Coast thing.

A POST-BREAKFAST WORKOUT

If you want to work out after breakfast, there’s a lot

of yoga in LA. I like YogaWorks (yogaworks.com)

on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica. There are

other branches throughout the city. People are

obsessed with Maha Yoga (mahayoga.com), in

Brentwood, where they blast rock music as you

exercise. In California, I like to take advantage of

the outdoors. You can run up and down the Santa

Monica Steps, on a steep hillside close to the

beach. Or you can hike in the Santa Monica

Mountains, which I love. I walk for miles, admiring

the views – you don’t feel as though you are in LA.

Closer to the ocean is the Will Rogers State

was born in Los Angeles and my early childhood is

imprinted in my brain: the memory of palm trees and

the city’s specific light, harsh yet diffused at once –

which I know doesn’t make sense. I remember my dad

[the late director Bruce Paltrow] driving me around to

meetings when he was trying to get his career going.

To me LA is all about being outside. I have great

memories of being little in California. Our house in

Santa Monica had a pool, a tree house and pomegranate

trees in the garden. Whenever I’m in the city I feel my

brain works less hard. I’m not noticing everything

everywhere because it’s all so familiar, whereas in

London I’m constantly aware of everything – such as the

blue plaques – because it’s still so foreign to me, even

though I’ve lived there for 10 years. Los Angeles has the

quality of home. I find it deeply tranquil. It’s my roots.

But I’ve had a love-hate affair with the city over the years. It was fantastic

when I was a child, but it wasn’t good for me in my twenties when I was dating

and trying to make it as an actress. I felt lonely there. It’s a difficult city to

discover yourself, because it is so spread out that you never quite know where

you are supposed to be. But now, having a job and a family, it is fantastic.

My idea for the Goop city guides app, which covers not just LA but New

York and London too, came about because I’ve always been the person my

friends call to find out where they should go in a city – for anything, right

down to a good bikini wax. Because I’m so curious, wherever I travel I’m

always pounding the pavement, asking locals a million questions. In fact,

I originally started Goop (goop.com), my website, as a database for my friends.

It’s such a big part of who I am and the app came out of that. There’s so much

information out there that it’s nice to have someone whose taste you trust.

I always find that the hotel concierge in a particular city will recommend

a restaurant that they say is great and in fact it’s terrible, so you waste your

money. The recommendations on my app come directly from me, so they

have to be good. You’ll find out about the best restaurants that really are tried

and tested, and places you wouldn’t necessarily find on your own, but which

a local would know. We designed the city guides app to be like a bookshelf,

and I am effectively a curator sharing my experiences with you.

Los Angeles isn’t considered one of the world’s great cities, but I think

it’s like a best-kept secret. If you know where to go, a holiday in LA can be

a very cool experience. Here are some of my personal picks from the app.

Road to happiness Santa

Monica, the district where

Gwyneth grew up

I


FOR ROMANTIC DINNER WITH CHRIS, WE KEEP IT CASUAL AT GIORGIO’S. ITS CORN RAVIOLI WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE IS BEYOND CRAZY

Historic Park, off Sunset Boulevard, which is

beautiful. Friends of mine who live inland, on the

East Side of LA, hike in Runyon Canyon Park,

which they love, because they can take their dogs.

Our dog hasn’t made it to LA yet.

For an indoor workout, I go to the new studio

of Tracy Anderson (tracyandersonmethod.com),

in Brentwood, of which I am a part-owner. Her

method is miraculous. She has changed my body

and my life. She has a variety of cardio and “band

cardio” classes [working with resistance bands

that hang from the ceiling]. There’s also a blow-dry

bar in the studio if you want to get your hair done

quickly. LA has a lot of blow-dry bars.

A DOSE OF RETAIL THERAPY

There’s great shopping all over LA. For beautiful

artisan pottery that makes a great gift, I love

Heath Ceramics (heathceramics.com). Just One

Eye (justoneeye.com) has one-of-a-kind clothing,

art and jewellery. A great thing to do on Saturday

morning is go to a farmers’ market. If you’re not

from a warm climate, you will find the abundance

of fruit and vegetables astonishing. It’s such fun

just to walk along the stalls and see the

colours and all the produce – the huge yellow

sunflowers and the bright, sweet California

strawberries. They are like sugar.

ABSORB SOME CULTURE

The idea that LA isn’t cultural is untrue; the culture

just comes in a different package. If you’re looking

for 400-year-old buildings, obviously it’s not the

place to go. LA is not about stepping back in time;

it’s about “Where are we now?” Its real strengths

are contemporary art, architecture and food. You

can’t go wrong with a weekend visit to MOCA

(moca.org), the Museum of Contemporary Art,

which is current and has a good vibe, great

exhibitions and a cool kids’ area where they can

do art and play. At Bergamot Station (bergamot

station.com), in an old railway station, you can

explore a variety of contemporary art galleries.

MY LUNCHTIME HAUNTS

Some people like to go to The Ivy, order its

famous chopped salad and watch the celebrities.

I prefer a turkey burger at Ammo (ammocafe.

com) in Hollywood. I also love Bouchon

(bouchonbistro.com), in Beverly Hills, where I have

oysters and French fries, or chicken.

With the family I go to Brentwood Country

Mart (brentwoodcountrymart.com), where you

can also find great clothing and books. Frida

Taquería has delicious Mexican food, but

everyone in my family loves Reddi Chick,

which has been there since I was born; I used to

go as a child. You sit outside in the courtyard

eating the best rotisserie chicken and chips –

a classic LA thing to do. For dessert, Sweet Rose

Creamery has superb ice cream.

One other place I go whenever I am in Los

Angeles is Sushi Park, at 8539 West Sunset

Boulevard, for Japanese food. It’s not fancy, but it’s

amazing. I just eat whatever they serve me.

MY KIND OF NEIGHBOURHOOD

If you want to get a real sense of LA, stroll along

Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. You can

park and walk and feel like you are steeped in

a neighbourhood and a culture. The food is

wonderful, the clothes shops are amazing and

unusual, it’s alive and it’s not touristy. There’s lots

of really interesting stuff. I love the pizzas at

Gjelina (gjelina.com), one of the best restaurants

in LA – my mouth is watering just thinking about

them – and there’s a great bar called The Other

Room (theotheroom.com). Heist (shopheist.com)

is a cool clothing store with a chilled Venice vibe.

The other neighbourhood I like is Silver Lake:

it’s the Shoreditch of Los Angeles, where the cool

kids hang out and there are plenty of hip shops

and cafés. I love a little place there called Forage

(foragela.com), which is really nice and unusual.

People bring in home-grown vegetables and

trade them for meals, and they serve grass-fed

burgers. I like meeting friends for lunch there

and it’s not hugely expensive.

TAKE ME TO THE BEACH

If you want to go to the beach at the weekend,

you have to get out of the city. I like the County

Line Beach (beachcalifornia.com/county-line-

beach-ventura.html), which is past Malibu, on the

border of LA and Ventura counties. It’s a big surf

spot, beautiful and off the beaten track.

EATING OUT, WITH THE CHILDREN…

We love The Ivy At The Shore (theivy

restaurants.com), which has delicious pizzas and

guacamole with hot home-made tortillas. It has

really child-friendly food as well as good grown-up

choices: I always have crab cakes and onion rings.

...AND WITHOUT

I love Providence (providencela.com), which is

right by Paramount Studios and has incredible

seafood. We eat in a quiet room and the food

is delicious: American with a French influence.

I took a friend there recently for her birthday.

For a romantic dinner with Chris [Martin, her

husband] we keep it casual, so the setting doesn’t

have to be romantic. We love Giorgio’s,

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi (giorgiobaldi.us),

which has been there since I was little and

has simple dishes made with high-quality

ingredients. Its corn ravioli with truffle sauce is

beyond crazy; I could eat platefuls of it. Oh

my God, it is so good. Yes, I eat pasta all the

time – but I work out all the time too!

MY BIG NIGHT OUT

I don’t do nightlife in LA. I don’t go out dancing

much, but when I do, the Chateau Marmont

(chateaumarmont.com) at night is fun. There’s

a great dinner and bar scene at the hotel.

I love to hear music in LA and I always find

out what’s on at the Hollywood Bowl

(hollywoodbowl.com). You sit outside and listen to

the music in the beautiful amphitheatre which

is completely open to the sky. It’s such a special

experience; they’ll have all kinds of concerts, from

Radiohead to a classical symphony. You make

your own picnic or pick up a picnic basket from

somewhere like Joan’s on Third (joansonthird.

com) and bring a bottle of wine. To me, that

epitomises Los Angeles culture.

As told to Elaine Lipworth

GWYNETH’S TOP TIPS

Fresh LA A gallery at MOCA; Will Rogers State Historic Park; Nantucket scallops at Providence; Abbot Kinney Boulevard

To download the Goop city guides app for Los Angeles,

London and New York (£2.49), see goop.com/appsELLE

N S

ILV

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WHERE TO STAY

My favourite hotel in Los Angeles

is Shutters on the Beach

(shuttersonthebeach.com) in

Santa Monica. I have a house in

LA but that’s where I love to stay –

and where I send my friends. It’s

beautiful, cosy and not too

modern. The beds are really

comfortable and you have

a great view of the ocean.

You know you’re in California

when you stay there.

Anyone who loves music will

like the Chateau Marmont

(chateaumarmont.com), left, in

West Hollywood. That’s where

music industry people stay. It is

kind of ramshackle and falling

apart, which is part of its charm.

People who love it really love it.

HOW TO LOOK GOOD

Karyn Grossman (grossman

dermatology.com) is my number

one beauty recommendation. She

did a Thermage laser treatment on

me that took five years off my face.

Los Angeles has some of the

best hairdressers in the world.

Chris McMillan in Beverly Hills has

done Jennifer Aniston’s hair

forever. I go to Tracey

Cunningham, who does my

colour, too. She is my girl. Her

place is called Méche

(mechesalonla.com).

I also highly recommend

Sonya Dakar (sonyadakar.com),

my crazy Israeli facial lady. I always

feel really good after seeing her.

She’s just magic – and a full-on

human being, a real ball-buster.


MauritiusascendingFive years ago, the Indian Ocean idyll seemed in danger of

being eclipsed by the Seychelles and the Maldives. Now,

says Nicki Grihault, a swathe of new hotels and gourmet

offerings is bringing visitors back to an island on the up

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New heights The Dinarobin Hotel Golf&Spa (far

right, main picture) has two new thatched villas on the

beachfront. Top left: a kite-surfer at the One Eye surf

spot on the south-west coast. Bottom left: Goan-style

fish in a poppy-seed crust, on the menu at Rasoi by

Vineet, the restaurant at One&Only Le Saint Géran

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Colonial revival The St Regis Mauritius

Resort, which opened in March, is built in

the style of a colonnaded mansion and has

Michelin-starred Atul Kochhar among its chefs

THE CUISINE IS A FUSION OF INDIAN, FRENCH, CREOLE AND CHINESE

hen I first visited Mauritius, as a teenager, the island had just one

five-star hotel, Le Saint Géran: a grand colonial classic on a private peninsula on the east coast. The eastern island

playground of Île aux Cerfs was a sandbar where tortoises roamed, and the fishing

village of Grand Baie – now the island’s tourism hub – was surrounded by deserted

white beaches, on which we would spread our picnic blanket and search for cowrie shells. To us, it was perfectly obvious why Mark Twain had declared: “You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first and then heaven was copied.” It was heaven.

Nearly 40 years after Le Saint Géran opened, much has changed. Mauritius now boasts the biggest choice of luxury accommodation of any island worldwide – quite a feat for a place the size of Surrey. Against a backdrop of sugar cane, ebony forests and velvety volcanic peaks, dozens of stylish hotels, resorts and, increasingly, villas line the miles of white-sand beaches. Top-notch spas, championship golf courses and gourmet restaurants compete for guests with lures of helicopter transfers, private plunge pools and 24-hour butler service.

In the past five years, many former fans of Mauritius have been tempted away by other destinations – the Maldives with their overwater suites and underwater restaurants; the Seychelles with their private villas; the newly peaceful Sri Lanka – but they have started to

return. Why? Not only is the island extremely good value, but it offers warm weather year-round, beautiful beaches, clear seas and genuinely friendly people providing impeccable service. Today, Mauritius has more than 120 hotels, many of them new and some recently refurbished.

The hottest of the island’s new beach hotels is Starwood’s St Regis Mauritius Resort, on the exclusive Le Morne peninsula on the south-west coast. At its official launch in March, champagne flowed freely and fireworks exploded in the bay to the strains of a live orchestra. It was a party as grand as any thrown by a sugar baron.

But Starwood is not the only hotel group to have raised its game. During the St Regis’s three-year construction – costing $185 million (£120 million) – many other hotels bustled with builders, constructing new suites and villas and sprucing up old rooms. Others introduced facilities ranging from a cookery school and a junior golf academy to a prestigious kite-surfing centre.

Beachcomber, the island’s leading hotel group, was the first to resurrect an established property – the Trou aux Biches Resort&Spa, rebuilt, at a cost of £60 million, to create a contemporary five-star, all-suite hotel on one of the best sheltered beaches in the north-west. Sun Resorts then replaced its garish Coco Beach, on the east coast, with Long Beach – an ultra-modern hotel with cool, Californian-style interiors and activities including tennis, Laser sailing and wall-climbing. Relative newcomers among the adult-only hotels include Angsana Balaclava Mauritius, a thatched five-star, suite-only

GETTING THERE

Two airlines fly non-stop to Mauritius

from Britain: Air Mauritius (020

7434 4375, airmauritius.com) and

British Airways (0844 493 0787,

ba.com), both from London

Heathrow. The best non-direct

service is with Emirates (0844 800

2777, emirates.com), via Dubai, from

London Heathrow and Gatwick.

Return economy fares to Mauritius

on direct flights cost from

approximately £715 per person.

Operators specialising in the island

include Luxury Holidays Direct

(020 8774 7299, luxuryholidaysdirect.

com), Kuoni (01306 747008, kuoni.

co.uk), Elegant Resorts (01244

897881, elegantresorts.co.uk),

Beachcomber Tours (01483 445

621, beachcombertours.co.uk),

and Elite Vacations (01707

371000, elitevacations.com)

W


property in Turtle Bay, and the smaller Baystone Boutique

Hotel&Spa in Grand Baie, with its sexy rooftop pool.

A third, the Paradise Cove Hotel&Spa, will reopen this

October on the north coast, after a light refurbishment.

The island’s activities and food have been upgraded,

too. At the newly rebranded LUX* Resorts hotels,

including Le Morne and Belle Mare, innovations range

from pop-up bars and all-day ice-cream carts to cinema

on the beach. The Oberoi, Mauritius, in Turtle Bay, has

introduced a “Touching Senses” programme intended to

connect guests with nature and culture through activities

such as stargazing and lessons in Hindu mythology. At

the Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita, women

have long enjoyed such indulgent treatments as a 24-carat

gold facial, while men at the St Regis Mauritius Resort

can now check in at the island’s only male grooming

salon. Hotel spas have become family-friendly, with

Haute Beauté facials for teenagers among the offerings

at The Residence Mauritius.

On the food front, no other cuisine in the Indian Ocean

can match that of Mauritius – a fusion of Indian, French,

Creole and Chinese influences. Top chefs who have

connections with restaurants on the island include Vineet

Bhatia at the One&Only Le Saint Géran, Atul Kochhar at

the St Regis Mauritius Resort, and Jean-Jacques Uge at

Anahita The Resort. Meanwhile, the Constance Belle Mare

Plage hotel runs a culinary festival each year and, this

spring, Tom Aikens, holder of two-Michelin stars, gave

culinary masterclasses at Beachcomber’s Royal Palm.

Other hotels give guests the opportunity to learn about

local culinary traditions. At Shanti Maurice, they can dine

with an elderly grande dame in her village home, while at

Maradiva Villas Resort&Spa, the 2012 Masterchef winner

Shelina Permalloo runs a cookery school twice a year,

with an emphasis on local dishes, and guests can visit an

estate supplying free-range boar and venison.

Mauritius has long been the top spot in the Indian

Ocean for weddings, and is one of the top five in the

world. In 2012, it was voted the world’s best honeymoon

destination in the World Travel Awards, its appeal

boosted by the growing number of hotels and resorts

with a romantic ambience. For thrill-seekers, attractions

include the longest zip-line ride in the Indian Ocean,

hiking to the top of Le Morne Brabant mountain and

tandem skydiving, while the more sedate can visit colonial

mansions, botanic gardens and local markets.

Last year, visitors to Mauritius reached the million

mark for the first time – 10 times the number four decades

ago, when the pioneering Le Saint Géran opened. Here is

Ultratravel’s guide to the best new places to stay.

THE ISLAND AT A GLANCE

The main tourism hub is in the north,

around Grand Baie, which has the highest

concentration of hotels, beaches and

entertainment. The east coast is the most

familiar, with its celebrated hotels and

beautiful white sand beaches, while the

west coast, which has flatter, calmer

waters, is favoured by families. The “green”

south is wilder, but arguably more

interesting, with a clutch of hotels in the

south-west, close to pounding surf and

dramatic cliffs. All prices below are for two

people sharing, unless otherwise stated.

THE HOTTEST NEW HOTELS

St Regis Mauritius Resort

New York meets the tropics at this

colonnaded colonial mansion on a white

sand beach on the Le Morne Peninsula.

All 172 residences and suites have sea

views, but the Beachfront Grand Suites,

with huge terraces overlooking the One

Eye kite-surfing hotspot, are its most

covetable. The Simply India restaurant,

presided over by the Michelin-starred chef

Atul Kochhar, is worth a trip across the

island (doubles from £311, b&b; 00230 403

9000, stregismauritius.com).

Constance Le Prince Maurice

This small, secluded all-suite hotel on the

east coast, reopened after a facelift last

September, has a hip new floating bar with

live music and DJs, a Sisley spa and 12 new

family suites, complete with Apple Mac

Minis, as well as a wine cellar and heated

lap-pool. Fitness guru Isabelle Lamant

offers yoga, zumba, personal training

and a get-fit bootcamp (junior suites

from £341, b&b; 00230 402 3636,

princemaurice.constancehotels.com).

Lakaz Chamarel Exclusive Lodge

“Mauritius seems to have been sculptured

and painted by a tasteful giant”, wrote

Malcolm de Chazal, the Mauritian poet.

Perhaps he was thinking of the lush green

hills of Chamarel, his family estate, and the

setting for this daringly different boutique

eco-lodge in 12 acres of flower-filled

gardens, a 15-minute drive from Le Morne

beach. As well as great food, the lodge has

a tiny spa offering excellent massages –

and the best view over Tamarin Bay, from

the new Piton Canot Suite (from £323 for

the suite; doubles from £156, half-board;

00230 483 5240, lakazchamarel.com).

Trou aux Biches Resort&Spa

Recently reopened after a two-year rebuild

costing £60 million, this all-suite-and-pool-

villa hotel is on a sheltered, sandy beach

on the north-west coast. There is water

everywhere – in waterfalls, fountains and

channels, as well as 106 pools. The suites

are huge; the 27 two- and three-bedroom

villas have decent-sized pools; and there

are six restaurants, from Italian and casual

European to Thai. A state-of-the-art kids

club and facilities for teenagers make this

a family-friendly choice, as do the villas

with indoor/outdoor living spaces,

barbecue areas and swimming pools

(junior suite from £255, half-board; 00230

204 6565, trouauxbiches-resort.com).

Angsana Balaclava Mauritius

The island’s newest five-star, all-suite

boutique hideaway is in Turtle Bay, on the

north-west coast – and it is for adults only.

Of the accommodation choices, the most

plush are the 600sq ft Beachfront Suites,

with an infinity pool and direct access to

the beach, and the four-bedroom Imperial

villa, with butler service. Highlights include

a seawater pool with a sandy bottom and

a swim-up bar and stools, plus a new

culinary experience in which guests learn

about ayurvedic influences in local cooking

(Garden Suite from £408, half-board; 00230

204 1888, angsana.com/en/balaclava).

Long Beach

Since it opened in 2011, with Californian-

style sea-facing rooms overlooking a wide

beach, this playful village-style resort has

been popular with families. Its kids club

offers dozens of activities and its family

rooms have an annexe kitted out with

Nintendo Wii games and televisions, plus

sufficient beds for up to three children

(doubles from £286, half-board; 00230

401 1919, longbeachmauritius.com).

Baystone Boutique Hotel&Spa

The New York-based architect and

designer Albert Angel created this new,

avant-garde five-star hotel near Grand

Baie, with wave-shaped walls and sofas

and sky-blue lighting. Of the 13 sea-facing

suites, the most desirable is the Sky Suite,

with its spacious outdoor living area and

exclusive access to the hotel’s rooftop

pool. Food is a key attraction at the hotel,

which has three à-la-carte restaurants. The

2,100sq ft Thal’ion spa boasts the island’s

first floatation tank (£295 for a suite,

half-board; 00230 209 1900, baystone.mu).

THE LATEST VILLAS

Villa living has arrived on Mauritius, with

several new upmarket resorts offering

plush pool homes for those who want both

privacy and the services of a chef, butler

and housekeeper. Heritage the Villas,

built on a hill in the green south-west,

offers guests access to 11 restaurants, free

green fees at its award-winning golf course

and the island’s only Beach Club (£395 per

night, b&b, sleeping four; 00230 266 9777,

heritageresorts.mu). At LUX* Belle Mare,

12 villas have been redesigned by Kelly

Hoppen, with fresh clean colours, sunken

baths and gardens with private pools (£595

per night, sleeping three; 00230 402 2000,

luxresorts.com). Dinarobin Hotel

Golf&Spa has two new four-bedroom,

thatched beachfront villas (£1,582 per

night, b&b, sleeping eight; 00230 401 4900,

dinarobin-hotel.com) and, this autumn,

St Regis will open its four-bedroom villa

overlooking the One Eye surf spot (00230

403 9000, stregis.com/mauritius).

Standalone villas with five-star service

include Villas Lencia, through Elegant

Resorts (£715 per night, sleeping six; 00

230 263 0801, villaslencia.com), and

Sankhara Villas, through the Coco

Collection (£1,010 per night, sleeping six;

00230 410 5268, sankhara-villas.com).

THE HOTEL HAS A HIP NEW FLOATING BAR, A SISLEY SPA AND 12 FAMILY SUITES WITH APPLE MAC MINIS

WHAT’S NEW IN MAURITIUS

Fresh looks Clockwise, from top: al fresco

dining at Constance Le Prince Maurice,

reopened after a facelift last September;

the bar at the new Baystone Boutique

Hotel&Spa; and a pool at Villas Lencia

CH

RIS

CA

LDIC

OTT

visitguernsey.com

Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Exeter, Gatwick, Glasgow*, Manchester,

Norwich*, Southampton and Stansted. *Weekly service in peak season only.

Poole, Weymouth* and Portsmouth. *From mid-July.

FLY FROM

SAIL FROM

A holiday on Guernsey is all about simple pleasures. Like seaside strolls and cliff-top walks.

Like good food made with local produce. Like knowing that you don’t have to rush because

everything you want is close at hand. There are castles and forts and one of the prettiest

harbour towns in Europe. And there’s the excitement that comes with being somewhere

different coupled with the reassurance that you’re not far from home.

Discover holidays as they used to be. Order your free Guernsey brochure today. Freephone 0800 028 5353

quoting ref: 5291/3 or go to visitguernsey.com

Getting to Guernsey is easy. Flights take as little as 30 minutesand ferries around 3 hours.

UK

France

Guernsey

Alderney

Herm

Sark

Burj Al Arab is the pinnacle of luxury, from its exquisite exterior to the genius of colour within. Experience superlative levels of service, personal butler care and passionate attention to detail in the most luxurious surroundings in the world.

For inquiries and reservations please contact:Tel: +971 4 301 7400Email: [email protected]

The World’s MostLUXURIOUS HOTEL

www.burjalarab.comfacebook.com/burjalarab

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LCKI8KI8M<C��

In our annual awards, we celebrate the very best of luxury travel as identified by our readers, from the destinations they

choose to the people who take them there. Overleaf, we announce the winners and, on page 45, analyse the results


A WORLD OF EXCELLENCE

Best luxury cruise line

CUNARD

Runners-up

Crystal Cruises

P&OCruises

Seabourn

Silversea Cruises

Best hotel in Europe

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

GEORGE V, PARIS

Runners-up

Claridge’s, London

The Dorchester, London

The Savoy, London

Ritz Paris

Best large luxury tour operator

KUONI

Runners-up

Abercrombie&Kent

Cox&Kings

Hayes&Jarvis

Trailfinders

Best cabin crew

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Runners-up

British Airways

Emirates

Etihad Airways

Virgin Atlantic

Best short-haul airline

BRITISH AIRWAYS

Runners-up

easyJet

Lufthansa

Monarch

Swiss

Best luxury hotel chain

FOUR SEASONS

Runners-up

Mandarin Oriental

One&Only

Shangri-La

Waldorf Astoria

Best hotel in the Americas

WALDORF ASTORIA NEW YORK

Runners-up

Bellagio Las Vegas

The Beverly Hills Hotel

The Carlyle, New York

Four Seasons Hotel New York

Best golf resort in the world

THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL,

SCOTLAND

Runners-up

La Manga Club, Spain

Pebble Beach Resorts, United States

St Andrews, Scotland

Turnberry Resort, Scotland

Best city in the world

NEW YORK

Runners-up

Barcelona

Melbourne

Paris

Sydney

Readers voted across 20 categories, from best hotel, airline and airport to favourite city and country. Each

category produced a winner and four runners-up – the Ultratravel 100, displayed on our celebratory map

LCKI8KI8M<C��

Best hotel in Australasia

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, SYDNEY

Runners-up

Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort&Spa,

New South Wales

Qualia, Great Barrier Reef

The Langham, Sydney

The Langham, Melbourne

Best hotel in Asia

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

Runners-up

Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok

Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

The Peninsula, Hong Kong

The Upper House, Hong Kong

Best hotel in the world

BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI

Runners-up

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Le Touessrok, Mauritius

Raffles Singapore

The Savoy, London

Best small luxury tour operator

ELEGANT RESORTS

Runners-up

Audley Travel

Nomadic Thoughts

Scott Dunn

Simpson Travel

Best airport in the world

CHANGI, SINGAPORE

Runners-up

Schiphol, Amsterdam

Dubai International

London Heathrow Terminal 5

Hong Kong International

Best airline lounge

VIRGIN ATLANTIC CLUBHOUSE,

HEATHROW TERMINAL 3

Runners-up

British Airways, Heathrow Terminal 5

Emirates, Dubai

Qatar Airways, Doha

Singapore Airlines, Changi

Best long-haul airline

VIRGIN ATLANTIC

Runners-up

British Airways

Emirates

Qantas

Singapore Airlines

Best hotel in Africa and the Indian Ocean

LE TOUESSROK, MAURITIUS

Runners-up

Banyan Tree Seychelles

Cape Grace, Cape Town

The Oberoi, Mauritius

One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

Best river cruise line

VIKING RIVER CRUISES

Runners-up

Ama Waterways

Avalon Waterways

Scenic Tours

Uniworld

Best country in the world

AUSTRALIA

Runners-up

Italy

New Zealand

South Africa

United States

Best hotel in the Middle East

BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI

Runners-up

One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai

Park Hyatt Dubai

Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi

Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort&Spa, Muscat

LCKI8KI8M<C��

In association with

Consistency is the hallmark of any credible awards – even if it might not make for

sexy headlines. In a world as competitive – and emotive – as travel, earning the

trust of discerning holidaymakers is vital. Once gained, the great names in

travel are loath to let this slip as they upgrade, reinvent, innovate and restore to

ensure that they are on the Ultratravel 100 list year after year.

Among those that retain their respective regional hotel awards are the Waldorf Astoria

New York, Raffles Singapore, Le Touessrok in Mauritius and the Shangri-La Hotel in Sydney.

My recent stay in the penthouse suite of the Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris (a tough

assignment I know, but someone had to do it, see page 69), confirmed to me why this hotel

continues to dine at the head of Europe’s top table, while Four Seasons – a byword for

consistent service – has deservedly kept the title of best hotel chain. However, it is the

Burj Al Arab in Dubai that takes the highest hotel honour – for best hotel in the world,

a brand-new category this year. The award is testament to Jumeirah’s innovation and

commitment to great service, not to say its healthy marketing budget. How many more

ways can there be of using its helipad in a cover shoot (see The next big thing, page 14)?

Both Kuoni and Elegant Resorts, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, are

again worthy winners in the tour operator categories; Viking and Cunard still rule the rivers

and seas; and Gleneagles remains our readers’ favourite golf resort, a year before the

Ryder Cup party comes to town. New York is voted favourite city (and, of the five preferred

North American hotels, three are in the Big Apple). Australia takes top honours again as

favourite country, with the Lions Tour and the Ashes tests set to make this a memorable

year for the travelling sports fan. Let’s just hope the ULTRA is the only thing Australia wins.

It is no surprise that, in the aviation categories, Singapore Airlines takes pride of place

for its cabin crew and British Airways for its short-haul services, while Changi, Singapore, is

voted best airport. Less expected is the double triumph of Virgin Atlantic, awarded best

long-haul airline and best airport lounge (for the Clubhouse in Heathrow’s Terminal 3).

It’s an impressive feat given the small size of the airline – but Virgin Atlantic has

always punched above its weight, whether by employing Vivenne Westwood to design its

cabin-crew uniforms, challenging BA with the launch of its domestic carrier Little Red,

or taking in-flight flirting to a new level on Virgin America by allowing passengers to send

a drink and a text to others, using their seat-back technology. Other innovations include

a redesign of its Upper Class cabin (with a new futuristic bar), “gate to gate” entertainment

(so passengers don’t miss the climax of a film) and increased hand-luggage limits.

The same fun and sassiness can still be found in the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse

seven years after it opened – martinis at the cocktail bar, manicures at the Cowshed

spa, multiscreen sports-viewing in the Den and refined plane-spotting in the Grey

Goose Loft bar. If only they could find a chairman who understood the value of PR.

Charles Starmer-Smith, editor, Ultratravel

A toast to our winners

Unfasten your seat belt The bar in the

redesigned Upper Class cabin of Virgin

Atlantic, winner of the best long-haul

airline and best airport lounge categories


ULTRASA I Lyour guide to heaven on water

Drawbridge to heaven

Panthalassa moored in Caribbean

waters, with its hydraulic teak

swimdeck lowered for watersports

Photographs by ADAM PARKER

Styling by ARABELLA BOYCE

LCKI8KI8M<C��

The seas are now plied

by 850 superyachts over

164ft in length – and they

offer every conceivable

entertainment, from

spas and cinemas to

submarines. Nigel Tisdall

steps aboard Panthalassa

to discover a moneyed

world that is truly super

SUPER MODELS

ExplorE .

DrEAM.

DISCoVEr .

For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0844 251 0841, visit www.silversea.com or contact your travel agent.

What is it that makes Silversea the benchmark of luxury cruising? The cuisines by Relais & Châteaux?

The all-inclusive luxury? The sumptuous suites with Ferragamo soaps... the butler who anticipates your every need?

Or perhaps it is Silversea’s European heritage that so appeals to well-travelled, international guests.

Aboard our ships you can explore secluded harbours less touched by time and tourists.

Insider access in the world’s great cities. Bespoke tours so that you can roam where you please.

Hardly what you would expect on an ordinary cruise. But then this is small-ship cruising. And we are Silversea.

LCKI8KI8M<C��

n the mosaics adorning their

lavish Mediterranean villas, the Romans included scenes

of cherubs riding gleefully on the backs of dolphins. It’s

a delightful fantasy, and yet, nearly 2,000 years later, here

I am doing the next best thing – charging through the

oh-so-blue waters of the Caribbean on the back of

a Seabob Cayago F7. Otherwise known as an underwater

scooter, the silent, battery-powered bullet looks a bit like

a turbo-charged dust-buster but can travel at 12 knots and

dive to 130ft. Riding one is fun, especially off the deserted

white-sand beaches of Anguilla – but, at that speed, it’s

a good idea to secure your trunks or bikini bottom tightly.

It certainly helps that my electro-dolphin, which

weighs 64kg (about 10 stone) but somehow still floats, has

been lowered into the sea from a hydraulic, teak-decked

swim platform that descends like a divine drawbridge

from the stern of a superyacht. An athletic deckhand in

a liveried rash vest accompanies me towards the shore;

cold towels and a freshwater shower await my return.

So far, so yes please – for this is just one of many

“toys” (as they are unashamedly known) available when

you charter a superyacht. Welcome to the truly seductive

world of Panthalassa, a 56m (184ft) come-and-race-me

sailing yacht, registered in London and with a British

skipper. On board there are also three jet skis, three

Ribs, waterskis, wakeboards, paddleboards, scuba gear

and kite-surfing equipment – plus all the tents, beanbag

seats, pop-up bars and flaming torches needed to hold an

impromptu party on a moonlit beach of our choice.

As we all know, some superyachts go OTT on all this,

with their swimming pools, cinemas and inflatable

playgrounds, not to mention mini-submarines and

helipads. Panthalassa has a different agenda: true class.

A Seabob costs about £11,000 – and we have six, natch.

But what really puts the S in this SY (as we in-crowders

call them) is that they have all been painted in a bespoke

shade of DuPont technical grey that matches the colour of

our hull. And that, we must agree, is darn cool.

Superyachts are generally defined as being over 35m

(115ft) long and come in two types: motor-only, for posing,

partying and inshore sailing; and the masts-and-sails

version, for maritime heritage and thrills. About a third of

charter superyachts fall into the second category – for me,

the only way to go as it offers the best of both worlds.

Built in 2010 by the Italian naval architects Perini Navi,

Panthalassa is designed to maximise comfort. Superyacht

interiors come in countless styles, from country house to

porn baron, but here you get a one-off temple of repose

created by Foster+Partners with natural light streaming

into the decks below thanks to a masterly use of skylights,

glass walls, slimline staircases and oversized portholes.

Multi-million-pound vessels like this carry a maximum

of 12 passengers, as having more opens up a viper’s

nest of regulations and licences. Many come with an

ostentatious owner’s suite, but on Panthalassa all six

cabins are the same size, kitted out in a serene and

contemporary whirl of Danish leather, Italian marble,

French toiletries and carefully-unthrown cashmere

throws. Up on the flybridge, a fan-shaped array of

sunbathing pads lies ready and waiting with plush towels,

chilled water, nibbles and generously-stocked baskets of

Lancaster sunscreen. In the evening, it’s time to turn on

the soft lighting as the cocktails and canapes arrive in the

Caribbean warmth, and our team leader, Captain Greg

Butler Davis, shows up in his smart black uniform to tell

envy-inducing tales of how Panthalassa has voyaged up

the Bosphorus to the Black Sea and sailed past Stromboli

at night as the volcano blazed beneath the stars.

OOaicsOOn the mosa

ULTRASA I L

Premier crew An Australian chef,

immaculately dressed deckhands

and stewardesses in white polo shirts

satisfy every whim on Panthalassa,

shown under full sail (above)


His 10-strong crew is equally decorous, predominantly

British with an affable style that mixes being natural with

knowing your place. Even the old-salt chief engineer

wears a spotless boiler suit, while the lithe and lively

stewardesses sport white polo shirts and short skirts, as

if about to play tennis rather than serve up lobster salads

and citron tarts prepared by our cheery Aussie chef.

Judging by the cushions scattered about the decks

(I count 111, then fall asleep), the orchestrator of this

£30-million nautical Neverland likes to be comfortable.

Superyacht etiquette decrees that the owner’s identity is

not revealed, but here’s a tip: look in the visitors’ book.

I’m initially curious about the style-savvy rich-lister

whose taste chimes with mine, but as the days go by it

matters less. After all, few us know much about God, yet

we’re happy loafing around in His fabulous creation.

Owning or chartering one of these Ferraris-of-the-

seas is avowedly statement-making. It’s about impressing

colleagues, entertaining friends, loving your family and

indulging yourself. Wealthy clients now expect superyacht

brokers to deliver a truly spectacular experience, and have

no qualms about making exceptional demands. “You

name it, we’ve done it!” says Charlie Birkett, partner and

group CEO of Y.CO, which has access to the largest, most

exclusive superyachts in the world. “It could be delivering

1,000 red roses to surprise the charterer’s girlfriend,

having a brand-new car winched on board as a birthday

present, or organising a last-minute wedding in Portofino,

with the crew handling every detail in just a few days.”

Nor does this exclusive and highly-tailored service

stop once you step ashore. “We can open all sorts of

secret doors,” says Nicholas Edmiston, chairman of

Edmiston&Company, which publishes a lavish directory

of the world’s 100 finest yachts available for charter.

“Magnificent Venetian palazzi, fabulous gardens in the

south of France… we know all the owners.”

Y.CO has likewise worked with the bespoke holiday

experts Based On A True Story (Boats), which specialises

in “magic-carpet-ride” luxury experiences. Given a brief

to “keep the children entertained” on one superyacht

holiday in the Mediterranean, it arranged for junior guests

to be taken into the souks of Morocco to buy an old teapot

that was then found to conceal an ancient message and

password. This in turn led to a trip into the desert to

meet a Tuareg nomad, triggering an elaborate seaborne

treasure hunt that concluded with a piratical fiesta in

Majorca complete with blazing guns and fireworks.

While it’s feasible for a group of friends or two families

to get together to charter such yachts, it is far more

common for one person to treat everyone else. Where

you go depends on your taste for adventure – summer in

the Med, winter in the Caribbean is the traditional track,

with superyachts switching between the two in a glittering

transhumance. “Some clients spend £5 million or more

on a superyacht holiday,” says Nicholas Edmiston, “so it’s

understandable that they want to be seen doing so.” That

means anchoring off St Tropez in high summer rather

than exploring the shores of Java, although you can still

find out-of-the-way spots in the Med. “Try the west coast

of Corsica,” Edmiston says, “which has beautiful beaches

that can only be reached by sea with no one there.”

Modern communications, together with the increasing

size and comfort of yachts, make it easier to hop on and

off at any point – with the help of private jets and

helicopters. “We’ve seen a rise in enquiries for further-

flung places such as the Belize Cayes, the Galápagos and

SURPRISES RANGE FROM DELIVERING 1,000 RED ROSES TO WINCHING A BRAND-NEW CAR ON BOARD

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Jet set A jet ski (top), one of three on

Panthalassa, is ideal for exploring the

beaches of Anguilla (above). Left: the

main living area of Panthalassa,

designed by Foster+Partners,

complete with art by Andy Warhol

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Antarctica,” reports Charlie Birkett. “These are usually

from regular charter clients who have visited the more

traditional destinations and are looking for something off

the beaten track. As yacht design evolves, longer-range

charters are making such destinations more accessible.”

You could equally go sailing in Alaska, the Maldives

or Papua New Guinea – but one thing is certain, there

will be no place for mud. In the perfectionist world of

superyachts, these beauty queens must look as new

and shiny as the day they were launched. Immense

amounts of labour and materials – costing £2.6 million

a year in the case of Panthalassa – are devoted to

maintaining that “straight-out-of-the-box” look.

My voyage starts in the Isle de Sol Yacht Club, the

newest superyacht marina on the French-Dutch

Caribbean island of St Martin/St Maarten, where the

painting, buffing and polishing is ceaseless. Up to

40 superyachts can berth here, and their names say it

all. Four Wishes. Imagine. One More Toy…

Bizarrely, the only way in and out of this mega-

rich powwow is through a small channel with

a scruffy bridge raised only three times a day.

The wind is up, so leaving without a scratch

to the sides (or worse) means Captain Greg is in for an

adrenalin-pumping moment. Skippering a superyacht is

an impressive feat of multi-tasking, in which you don’t

just sail a huge and complex machine. You also need to

know everything from how to fix bilge pumps and the

intricacies of Croatian VAT to the best way to bag a top

dinner table during the Monaco Grand Prix.

We do it, just, and Greg celebrates by playing “Pinball

Wizard” at full blast on the sound system. Needless

to say, this isn’t any old hi-fi; it’s a no-expense-spared

extravaganza featuring Apple-based Savant technology

that also lets users adjust everything from the blinds to

the air con to the security cameras from a smartphone

touchscreen. Then there’s the satellite broadband, the

video-conferencing saloon, the 60in flat-screen TV with

a Kaleidescape system offering 500 movies on demand.

You don’t get mega-rich without being a control freak.

Out on the blue ocean, however, there is a delicious

sense of freedom. Now where shall we go? St Barths?

Saba? The BVIs? It’s up to us. The crew lower the keel, we

turn our head to the wind, then up goes the mainsail on

a mast that soars to 59m (190ft). But if you want to pull

a rope, forget it. Everything is done from two consoles

with enough buttons and switches to fly to the moon.

Soon we are bouncing over the waves, hitting 12 knots

and leaning at a jaunty 14 degrees. The sun is out, the

engines are off, the brown boobies are saying hi…

Up above us, Panthalassa’s vast sails do their bends

and stretches, more than 16,000sq ft of iceberg-white

triangles tangoing with the warm wind. Suddenly the

clichéd bubbles-and-bling image of superyachting

seems ridiculous. The supreme way to enjoy a charter

like this, I realise, would be to spend part of your holiday

competing in a superyacht regatta. That’s when the

rock-star crews come on board, and the fun really starts.

The Bucket in St Barths, the Loro Piana in Sardinia,

Les Voiles de St Tropez – oh yes, I’m free. Are you?

VERTIGO

The winner of 10 design awards, Vertigo

is one of the fastest superyachts on the

seas, capable of doing 20 knots under sail

(faster than many motor yachts), thanks

to more than 54,000sq ft of Kevlar carbon

sails. Unique features include a hull that

folds down to create a “beach club”,

extendable glass panels to protect against

the elements, and urban-style interiors

designed by Christian Liaigre. On-board toys

and entertainment range from tenders and

dinghies to a gym overlooking the water.

Details Sleeps 12; length 67m/220ft;

from £190,000 per week (ycoyacht.com).

TALITHA

Owned by the Getty family, this is one of

the most glamorous, old-fashioned vessels

available for charter. There is no sign that,

during the Second World War, she sailed out

of Pearl Harbour with six anti-aircraft guns

and 110 US Navy personnel on board; today,

she is all polished wood, swags, silver and

art-deco detailing. By day there are two

Yamaha WaveRunners to play on (as well as

ocean kayaks, kitesurfers, Laser dinghies,

diving gear, waterskis, and more), and at

night more than 200,000 CDs to listen to

and 1,000 movies to watch.

Details Sleeps 12; length

75.3m/247ft; from £240,000 per week

(edmistoncompany.com).

TWIZZLE

This serial award-winner combines the

world’s most advanced technology with

refined interiors of pale aged oak and

cream. Carrying 19,000sq ft of sail on

two masts, this is a yacht built for speed

(17 knots) but also for relaxation: guests

can lounge on one of the cream sofas

lining its capacious aft decks, sheltered

by the largest sheets of triple-glazed

curved glass ever made, or recline in

the calmly decorated cabins finished in

cashmere, soft leather and silk.

Details Sleeps 8; length 57.5m/189ft;

from £175,000 (burgessyachts.com).

PRANA

Refitted in 2011, and kitted out with more

toys than most (from Laser dinghies,

wakeboards and kiteboards to a pair

of Seabob lightweight scooters), this

is a yacht for active types. Food-lovers

are catered to as well, by a chef who

specialises in healthy cuisine. For gentler

activity, a yoga teacher is on board to give

daily lessons – and inside is a high-tech

entertainment system, with both a cinema

and a karaoke box. Although extremely

comfortable, the superyacht cruises at

an exhilarating 12 knots, powered by

26,000sq ft of sail or a 1,200hp engine.

Details Sleeps 12; length 51.7m/170ft;

from £160,000 per week (fraseryachts.com).

CHRISTINA O

This boat’s guest list gives a clue to its style:

JFK, Jackie Kennedy, Winston Churchill,

Frank Sinatra… Once owned by Aristotle

Onassis, and named after his daughter, this

is more ship than yacht, with 18 staterooms,

Michelin-standard food, a Six Senses spa,

a pool lined with mosaics, plus (of course)

a helipad. The two tenders are as glamorous

as the ship itself, fashioned from mahogany

and finished in brass; additional toys include

dinghies, waveriders and windsurfers.

Details Sleeps 34; length 99m/325ft;

from £390,000 per week

(camperandnicholsons.com).

CHARTERING A SUPERYACHT

Cost is not an issue for most superyacht

clients, but prices – generally per week –

are negotiable and brokers are competitive.

Late bookings may be discounted, and

rates tend to be better outside high season

(June or September in the Mediterranean,

and mid-January to late-February in the

Caribbean). Budget another third of the

price for costs such as food, drinks, fuel,

port fees and incidentals, and an additional

10 per cent for gratuities. VAT is levied

in some countries. Superyachts can be

chartered through specialist brokers

(see Details above). Useful websites

include boatinternational.com, superyachts.

com and superyachttimes.com.

HOW TO DO IT

Panthalassa (sypanthalassa.com) can be booked through Y.CO –

The Yacht Company (020 7584 1801, ycoyacht.com). A seven-night

charter costs from £131,335 in the Caribbean, or £173,337 in the

Mediterranean. A regatta package, including a professional racing

crew, starts at £167,471.

Split almost equally into French and Dutch sides, the green

and hilly island of St Martin/St Maarten is a popular starting point

for Caribbean yacht charters and has 13 marinas, a lively beach

scene and many fine restaurants. Air France (0871 663 3777,

airfrance.co.uk) flies from eight UK airports via Paris; return fares

range from £645 (economy) to £2,230 (business class). Stay at the

just-refurbished La Samanna (0845 077 2222, lasamanna.com)

in St Martin, an Orient-Express hotel with 83 ocean-view rooms

and suites, plus four three- and four-bedroom villas set on cliffs

overlooking a long and virtually private white sand beach (a deluxe

room costs from £544). Transfers from the airport take 15 minutes.

5 OF THE BEST SUPERYACHTS

Sails of the century The finest

superyachts include classics

such as Christina O (above), as

well as new models such as

Vertigo (left) and Twizzle (below)

Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 9am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 7pm & Sunday 10am to 6pm. Terms and conditions apply for full details please visit virginholidayscruises.co.uk/legal. *Lead prices are based on two passengers travelling and sharing an interior stateroom and standard hotel room where applicable and include all applicable taxes and fuel surcharges, correct at the time of print and subject to change. Prices exclude discretionary daily services charges payable onboard or in advance and auto gratuity charges payable on board. Flights are included and will depart from a London airport (unless otherwise stated). Offers are for new bookings only and can be made via your local Virgin Holidays retail store or by calling direct; offers are subject to availability and change. A non-refundable booking fee may apply, please ask at time of booking. Complimentary Chauffeur Service is for the fi rst 75 miles each way to and from the airport, costs will be given at the time of booking for any additional mileage. Offer is non-combinable with other discounts, promotions and savings unless stated. Virgin Holidays Cruises are ATOL (2358) protected and ABTA (J1138)/(W9716). All the fl ight and fl ight inclusive holidays featured are fi nancially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certifi cate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (fl ights, hotel and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions for further information about fi nancial protection and the ATOL Certifi cate go to atol.org.uk/ATOLCertifi cate. All offers are valid for Virgin Holidays Cruises division of the Virgin Holidays Group only, for defi nition visit virginholidays.co.uk/ourfamily. Registered in England 1873815. Registered offi ce; Company Secretariat, The Offi ce, Manor Royal, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 9NU. Credit Card payments by VISA/Mastercard incur a 1.3% surcharge and 2.6% for AMEX. All calls charged at 5p per minute from a BT landline, calls from mobiles or other networks may vary.

CALL OUR EXPERT PLATINUM

TEAM ON 0844 644 9518www.virginholidayscruises.co.uk/platinum

STAR CLIPPERS OPERATES SOME OF THE WORLD’S

LARGEST AND TALLEST SAILING VESSELSThese tall ships visit ports often untouched by larger cruise ships

and offer passengers the activities, amenities and atmosphere of

a private yacht.

Imagine combining the magic of a relaxing cruise holiday with all

the romance of sailing aboard a traditional tall ship, this unique

combination of sailing tradition and pampered relaxation is the

true essence of Star Clippers.

To entertain you at certain ports, local

performers are invited on board to give a

real authentic feel of the places you visit,

coupled with a culinary adventure

conjoured up by inspired chefs

will surely excite all your senses.

FROM ONLY

£1,999p *

prices based on 4 Dec ’13 Inside

WHAT’S INCLUDED:

Direct Virgin Atlantic Flights & Resort Transfers

3nts 4 All Inclusive Stay in Barbados

7nts Full Board Cruise on Royal Clippers

Departures Nov 13 - Apr 14

VISITING:

Bridgetown (Barbados), Rodney Bay (St Lucia),

Cabrits (Dominica), Roseau (Dominica),

Falmouth Harbour (Antigua), Basseterre (St. Kitts),

South Friar’s Beach (St. Kitts), Terre de Haut (Iles des

Saintes), Fort de France (Martinque)

BARBADOS STAY AND CARIBBEAN CRUISEFROM ONLY

£2,499p *

prices based on 3 Dec ’13 Inside

WHAT’S INCLUDED:

Direct Virgin Atlantic Flights & Resort Transfers

4nts 5 All Inclusive Stay in Sandals

Grande Antigua Resort & Spa

7nts Full Board Cruise on Star Clippers

Departures Nov 13 - Mar 14

VISITING:

Philipsburg (St. Maarten), Anguilla (B.V.I),

Virgin Gorda (Tortola), Norman Island & Soper’s Hole

(Tortola), Jost van Dyke (B.V.I),

Basseterre (St. Kitts), Gustavia (St. Barts)

ANTIGUA STAY AND CARIBBEAN CRUISE

COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT CHAUFFEUR SERVICE COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT CHAUFFEUR SERVICE

Travel safe, you are fully protected

Price is correct at the time of going to print. All holidays are subject to availability..

Call 020 8780 7990www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk

DISCOVER A

DIFFERENT

VIEW OF

THE

WORLD

Europe • Russia • Asia

Inspiring destinations,

extraordinary comfort,

exceptional cuisine, unrivalled

service and fascinating tours –

there is no more rewarding way

to see the world than on a

Viking river cruise.

With prices starting from just

£1,095pp for an 8-day European

river cruise holiday, come and

discover a different view of the

world with Viking.

LCKI8KI8M<C��

Gone are the days when cruise-ship

excursions involved clambering

aboard a minibus or taxi for

a whistlestop tour of a port city,

taking in all the obvious sights.

Today, trips ashore are all about exclusivity,

adventure and giving passengers access to

an unforgettable one-off experience. Here

are some examples to whet the appetite.

ST PETERSBURG, RUSSIA

See the vaults of the HermitageOnly a fraction of the three million works of art

and artefacts in the Hermitage museum’s

collection is on display; the rest is housed in

a series of enormous vaults. Viking River Cruises,

which has been offering itineraries in Russia since

1997, has used its long-standing links to secure

access to these vaults for guests on its Russian

waterways voyages. Working closely with

Geraldine Norman, the advisor to the director of

the museum, it has developed The Hermitage

Behind Closed Doors excursion, which includes

a tour of the museum with an art historian

(before the crowds arrive) and a visit to the

private vaults to see 19th-century frescoes,

treasured sculptures, furniture and imperial

carriages belonging to the Romanov family, as

well as some of the priceless diplomatic gifts

that were bestowed on Stalin.

Book it Viking River Cruises (020 8780 7995,

vikingrivercruises.co.uk) is offering a 13-day

Waterways of the Tsars voyage between Moscow

and St Petersburg from £2,295 per person (on

selected dates in 2014), including flights. The

Hermitage excursion costs £99 per person.

THE NORTH POLE

Float high above the ice capOnly 250 people each year can claim to have

stood at the North Pole – and most of these have

travelled there with Quark Expeditions. The

adventure specialist goes one step further, too, by

allowing its passengers to photograph the “top of

the world” from a tethered hot-air balloon. The

cruise line’s Russian icebreaker, 50 Years of

Victory, powered by a nuclear reactor, sets out

from Murmansk and crashes its way through

pack ice for a week to reach its destination at

90 degrees north. Just short of the Pole, the

balloon is inflated and guests can hover, four at

a time, above the magnificent icy wilderness and

peer down on the ship, wedged in the ice below.

At the Pole itself Quark holds a barbecue on the

ice with a champagne toast to mark the occasion.

Book it Quark Expeditions (0808 120 2333,

quarkexpeditions.com) is offering North Pole

voyages from £14,190 per person, including most

excursions. During 2013, the balloon flight costs

£190 (prices for 2014 have yet to be announced).

KAMCHATKA, RUSSIA

Fly over active volcanoesWhen it comes to up-and-coming expedition

hotspots, the Kamchatka Peninsula in the

Russian Far East is one to watch. This

necklace of smoking volcanoes, rising from

the icy tundra that fringes the Pacific Ring of

Fire, has caught the attention of a few cruise

lines – not least the French-owned Compagnie du

Ponant, which is offering a two-hour helicopter

flight over the Valley of Geysers and the Uzon

volcano caldera. After landing among boiling mud

SHORE LEAVE

A cruise can be the conduit to unique and extraordinary experiences on land. Sue Bryant chooses 10 of the best

Flights of fancy On the

Kamchatka Peninsula,

Russia, cruise passengers

can take a helicopter ride

over active volcanoes.

Below: Shanghai by

vintage sidecar, and

hot-air ballooning

above the North Pole

ULTRASA I L


holes, hot streams and more than 40 steam

vents in the Valley of Geysers, passengers set off

on foot through an other-worldly landscape. After

a second landing in the Uzon caldera – a lunar

landscape of vivid colour, caused by mineral

deposits from more than 1,000 hot springs –

there is a chance to catch sight of the brown

bears and reindeer that roam this remote area.

Book it Compagnie du Ponant (0800 980 4027,

ponant.com) is offering a 10-night cruise from

Petropavlosk to Otaru in Japan on board the new

expedition yacht Le Soléal, departing on October

5, from £3,969 per person, including flights from

Paris. The excursion costs £1,039 per person.

THE UPPER RHINE, GERMANY

Have a baroque banquetThe luxury river-cruise operator Scenic Tours,

which offers such perks as 24-hour butler service

and inclusive drinks, has introduced a new

evening event on selected Rhine cruises. From

the riverside town of Karlsruhe in Germany,

guests are taken to the early-18th-century Rastatt

Palace. The oldest baroque residence in the

Upper Rhine region, Rastatt is modelled on

Versailles and offers visitors a visual feast of

lavish stucco figures and reliefs, impressive

chandeliers and elaborate ceiling frescoes

painted by Italian artists. Scenic Tours guests are

treated to a private tour followed by a classical

music concert before sitting down to a banquet

in one of the palace’s ornate salons.

Book it Scenic Tours (0161 236 2444,

scenictours.co.uk) is offering a 15-day

Romantic Rhine and Moselle cruise

from Amsterdam to Basel, with departures

until mid-October, from £2,495 per person,

including flights and excursions.

THE ANTARCTIC

Camp on the ice shelfMany expeditions to the White

Continent follow in the

footsteps of great explorers

such as Amundsen and Scott.

Hurtigruten, whose ships have

been transporting locals around

Norway’s Arctic coast for more

than 120 years, takes hardy

guests camping on the ice during its

Antarctic expeditions on board the

MS Fram. On the designated day (ground

arrangements in Antarctica depend on the

weather and the condition of the ice), a small

group leaves the warmth of the ship for the

ice, pitching two-man expedition tents furnished

with thermal sleeping bags, for a night to

remember in the snowy wilderness. During the

Austral summer, when the sun barely sets,

campers may have inquisitive penguins for

company – but getting a decent night’s sleep is

secondary to the adventure.

Book it Hurtigruten (0844 448 7601, hurtigruten.

co.uk) is offering a 10-day Antarctica Classic

Expedition Voyage departing from Ushuaia,

Argentina, on November 22, from £3,898 per

person. Flights and hotel accommodation in

Buenos Aires start at £1,692 per person and

the excursion costs £330 per person.

ROME, ITALY

Design your own jewelleryParticipants in Crystal Cruises’ exclusive Jewellery

Showroom and Workshop tour in Rome will come

away with an original piece they have designed

and cast themselves. Lucia Odescalchi, a former

Valentino model, has turned her hand to jewellery

design, working

with materials such

as steel, matte gold,

brown diamonds, rough-cut

rock crystal, amethysts and emeralds. This three-

hour workshop – led by Odescalchi, in her 16th-

century palazzo in the city centre – allows

participants to study her technique and create

their own piece using an age-old method of

reproduction to create a cast, pour molten

metal into it and refine and polish the result.

Book it Crystal Cruises (020 7399 7601,

crystalcruises.co.uk) is offering a nine-night Italian

Dreams cruise from Venice to Monte Carlo on

Crystal Serenity, departing on September 19,

from £3,325 per person, including flights. The

excursion costs an additional £725 per person.

SHANGHAI, CHINA

Ride in a vintage sidecarGuests can plunge headlong into the throng of

humanity – albeit with style – in the sidecar of

a 1930s motorcycle with a Shanghai resident as

their guide. The luxury cruise line Silversea offers

this unusual tour of China’s largest city, taking in

some of its less-visited sights, including the

elaborate ceiling mosaics that adorn the dome of

the Pudong Development Bank. Covered with

stucco and paint to save them from destruction

during the Cultural Revolution, the paintings were

uncovered only in 1997. The tour also includes

a visit to the city’s former abattoir, an architectural

art-deco gem in the historical Hongkou district,

which is fast becoming a must-visit hub of art and

creativity. Another quirky highlight is the marriage

market near People’s Square – a vast, open-air

match-making event at which parents attempt to

find husbands or wives for their single offspring.

The tour culminates in a drive along the

waterfront Bund, a sweep of former bank

buildings and trading houses that flanks the

western bank of the Huangpu River, with views

across to the skyscrapers of Pudong – the

gleaming 21st-century vision across the water.

Book it Silversea (0844 251 0837, silversea.com)

is offering a 14-day cruise from Hong Kong to

Tokyo on board Silver Shadow, departing on

April 19, 2014, from £3,850 per person. The

sidecar excursion costs £525 for two people.

ST KITTS, THE CARIBBEAN

Dine at a historic houseThe scented tropical gardens surrounding Fairview

Great House, on the Caribbean island of St Kitts,

provide the backdrop for one of a new series of

events from Azamara Club Cruises. Each Azamara

voyage includes an “after-hours” evening in

a historic or unusual venue, with music and

entertainment on tap and the opportunity to

sample the local cuisine in an authentic setting.

On this cruise, it is rum punch at sunset followed

by jerk chicken, plantain rolls and sweet potato

balls, with a live band to raise the tempo.

Fairview was built in the 18th century as the

home of a French military commander, but it has

since been inhabited by a host of prominent

locals, including James Stephen, an abolitionist

lawyer and the great-grandfather of the novelist

Virginia Woolf. The house has recently been

restored, and guests can wander through the

rooms, including the original kitchen and

bathroom, and cross the cobbled courtyard

to the lush gardens.

Book it Azamara Club Cruises (0844 493 4016,

azamaraclubcruises.co.uk) is offering a 12-night

Frenchmen and Virgins voyage – a round-trip from

Miami visiting the Virgin Islands and the eastern

Caribbean – on board Azamara Quest, departing

on November 26, from £1,952 per person,

excluding flights. There is no extra charge for the

Azamazing evening, but passengers must book.

SEA OF CORTEZ, MEXICO

Swim with sea lionsThe small expedition ship Safari Endeavour

anchors just off Los Islotes, a desolate cluster of

rocks in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico, where skiffs

take passengers as close as possible to the

craggy outcrops. The adventurous can then don

a mask and snorkel and plunge into the melée of

wild Californian sea lions that gather here in large

numbers to breed. Snorkellers will be nipped,

jostled and nudged to make them interact as

juvenile sea lions show off, buzzing swimmers

underwater and gobbling mouthfuls of fish as

they leap like dolphins towards the dive boat.

The trick is to treat them as large, very playful

puppies that happen to be superb swimmers.

Book it Mundy Adventures (020 7399 7630,

mundyadventures.co.uk) is offering a 10-night

Baja’s Bounty cruise on Safari Endeavour

with American Safari Cruises from £3,455

per person, including flights and excursions.

ABU DHABI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

See Formula 1 and falconsOne of a series of family-friendly excursions from

Hapag-Lloyd, Germany’s most luxurious cruise

line, this one is available on the brand-new Europa

2. Its round-trip voyage from Dubai, during the

2014 Easter school holidays, includes such

activities as desert driving in Qatar, a visit to the

F1 circuit in Bahrain and a dolphin-spotting trip on

a traditional dhow to Oman’s rarely visited

Musandam peninsula. In Abu Dhabi, the highlight

is a tour of the Falcon Hospital – the world’s

largest rehabilitation facility for falcons, one of

the great icons of Arab culture. This will be

followed by a desert drive in a 4x4, with a chance

to spot the magnificent birds of prey in the wild.

Book it Hapag Lloyd (0049 40 3001 4580, hl-

cruises.com) is offering an eight-night round-trip

Dubai cruise from £4,721 per adult in a two-room

family apartment (free for children under 11),

cruise-only, departing on April 20, 2014. The

excursion costs an additional £77 per person.

Culture club Clockwise, from above: The Hermitage

in St Petersburg, which does private tours; Lucia

Odescalchi, who runs jewellery classes in Rome;

swimming with sea lions; and Formula 1 in Bahrain

DON A MASK AND SNORKEL AND PLUNGE

INTO A MELEE OF WILD SEA LIONS

AIR

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SMALL SHIP CRUISING WITH - SPECIAL OFFER PRICES FROM ONLY £2995

SPECIAL

OFFER PRICES

10 NIGHTS

FROM ONLY

£2995 PER PERSON

SMALL SHIPS - BIG EXPERIENCES

Escape the British winter and enjoy the warmth and beauty of the Cape Verde archipelago aboard the wonderfully comfortable

MS Island Sky as she undertakes exactly the type of itinerary that suits her best. Like the Azores but even more remote, the Cape

Verde Islands are an intriguing archipelago located off the coast of Senegal. They are an amazingly varied group of islands that have

been used as a staging post by mariners through the ages and there is truly no better way to explore the region, with its dramatic

beauty and cultural vibrancy than by small ship, and with the MS Island Sky as our base we can island hop with great ease.

Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure.

Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

Island hopping in Cape VerdeVoyages exploring the Cape Verde archipelago aboard the MS Island Sky - November & December 2013

SP

OFFER PRIC

10 NIGHTS

FROM ONLY

£2995 PER PERSON

The MS Island Sky will be exploring the Cape Verde archipelago from November to mid December over the course of three voyages – the order of islands visited and the length of time spent in the

archipelago varies but all three voyages provide an in-depth exploration of the culture, wildlife and lifestyle of the islands, some of which are arid and fl at with extraordinary beaches and sand dunes

contrasting with lush mountainous islands. It is a little world of its own, each island having a distinct culture and atmosphere and an ideal archipelago for small ship cruising.

Palmeira, Sal: The island of Sal was relatively

undeveloped until the mid nineteenth

century when salt export business was

developed. We will see the saltpans and

after lunch visit the town of Santa Maria for

a relaxing afternoon swimming from the

beaches or exploring the local shops for

Cape Verdean crafts.

Maio: We spend a full day on the tiny

island of Maio, a peaceful island with vast

deserted beaches. Our time on the island

will be relaxing allowing for time at leisure

to walk along the long beaches next to our

anchorage. Our onboard staff will run walking

tours to the capital of Vila do Maio with its

huge white Baroque church and pretty pastel

painted houses. Whilst the birders will have a

chance to see the prolifi c birdlife.

Praia, Sao Tiago: The island of Sao Tiago,

and in particular the capital of Praia, is a

busy town with a very African feel. We drive

to nearby Cidade Velha, the old Portuguese

capital with a rich history. See the fort and

cathedral and visit the National Maritime

Museum of marine archaeology.

Fogo & Brava: During our voyages we spend

two days exploring Fogo and Brava. Fogo is

an extraordinary place. Known as the ‘Mother

Island’ it has its own unique character and

people. An island drive will take us through

dramatically contrasting areas of fertile valleys

that are dominated by the massive grey

volcanic cone of Pico de Fogo. Later, call into

the main town of Sao Filipe, a gracious town

of faded grandeur. Brava is often referred to

as the ‘Secret Island’ as it is sometimes mist

shrouded and the humid conditions produce

wonderful conditions for the fl ora. Our tour

will include arguably the most beautiful bay

in the islands at Faja d’Agua with its pretty

nearby village.

Sao Nicolau: Sao Nicolau is a charming,

peaceful and attractive island of plantations,

small holdings and busy farming villages.

It also has impressive, almost untouched

mountain scenery, friendly residents and

lively traditions. On our tour we will drive

through a spectacular landscape towards the

historical capital Ribeira Brava. Here we will

discover the lively centre of the island which

refl ects the character of the people.

Mindelo, Sao Vincente: Mindelo is one of the

most attractive of all Cape Verde towns with

its colonial buildings, cobbled streets, cafes

and lively restaurants. During our time here

we will go on a discovery tour of the lively

markets and the secret corners of the harbour

town. We moor for two nights here allowing

time to explore the charming port on a pre or

post diner stroll and on one evening enjoy a

performance by local musicians and a capoeira

display on board.

Porto Novo, Santo Antao: Santo Antao is

regarded as the most beautiful of the islands.

During our exploration of the island we drive

up the old trading route, enjoying panoramic

views of the island before arriving in a tiny

picturesque mountain village. After lunch in

the seaside village of Ponta de Sol, we will

take the coastal road towards the greenest

valley in the archipelago, the valley of Paul

where we will learn about the production

of sugarcane on the island. Also discover

‘Grogue’, the national drink of the islands.

The Islands The Voyages

Voyage 1 - 15th to 25th November 2013

Day 1 London Gatwick to Mindelo, Sao Vincente.

Fly by specially chartered direct fl ight. Embark the

MS Island Sky this evening and moor overnight.

Day 2 Mindelo, Sao Vincente.

Day 3 Mindelo, Sao Vincente & Porto Novo, Santo Antao

Day 4 Santo Antao

Day 5 Sao Nicolau

Days 6 & 7 Fogo & Brava

Day 8 Praia, Sao Tiago

Day 9 Maio

Day 10 Palmeira, Sal

Day 11 Palmeira to London Gatwick. Disembark this

morning and transfer to the airport for our specially

chartered direct fl ight to London.

Voyage 2 - 25th November to 5th December 2013Voyage 3 - 5th to 15th December 2013

Day 1 London Gatwick to Palmeira, Sal. Fly by

specially chartered direct fl ight. Embark the MS

Island Sky this evening and moor overnight.

Day 2 Palmeira, Sal

Day 3 Maio

Day 4 Praia, Sao Tiago

Days 5 & 6 Fogo & Brava

Day 7 Santo Antao

Day 8 Porto Novo, Santo Antao & Mindelo, Sao Vincente

Day 9 Mindelo, Sao Vincente

Day 10 Sao Nicolau

Day 11 Palmeira to London Gatwick. Disembark

this morning and transfer to the airport for our

specially chartered direct fl ight to London.

Santo Antao

BravaFogo

Maio

Sao Nicolau

CAPE VERDE

ISLANDS

Sal

Sao Tiago

MindeloSanto Antao

BravaFogo

Maio

Sao Nicolau

CAPE VERDE

ISLANDS

Sal

Sao Tiago

Mindelo

Price Includes: Economy class privately chartered air travel • 10 nights aboard the MS Island Sky on full board • House wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner onboard • lecture programme • shore excursions • gratuities to crew and whilst on shore excursions • transfers • port taxes • airport taxes. NB. Ports subject to change. All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations and are available on request. Travel insurance and visa are not included in the price.

Excellent value for money

SPECIAL OFFER PRICES PER PERSON BASED ON DOUBLE OCCUPANCY RANGE FROM £2995 FOR A STANDARD

FORWARD SUITE TO £4495 FOR AN OWNER’S BALCONY SUITE. SUITES FOR SOLE USE FROM £4495.

MS Island Sky

The MS Island Sky is one of the fi nest small ships in the world with an atmosphere akin to a private yacht or country hotel.

With a maximum passenger capacity of only 114, the all-suite vessel has the benefi t of unusually large accommodation,

public areas and spacious outside decks. All suites feature a sitting room area and some have a private balcony. The

spacious and fi nely decorated public rooms include a lounge, elegant bar, library and a single seating dining room. Outside

there is a rear sun deck where meals are served in warm weather under shade, a bar and comfortable deck furniture. On the

top deck there is a Jacuzzi, further observation and sun deck.

LCKI8KI8M<C��

Last month, when the brand-new Norwegian

Breakaway took up its mooring at New York’s

Manhattan Terminal, it became the largest

cruise ship ever to have been based there. It

is also one of the largest pieces of art on

Earth, its hull a metallic canvas for a 40,000sqft work by

the American illustrator Peter Max. In January 2014, the

Norwegian Getaway – owned by the same company,

Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) – will become a floating

canvas too, when the Miami-based muralist David “Lebo”

Le Batard unveils a similarly vast painting on its hull.

Turning cruise ships into art is a natural progression

from their long history as floating galleries. In the golden

age of cruising, the classic liners were often used to

showcase the private collections of their wealthy owners.

It’s an idea conveyed in James Cameron’s film Titanic, in

which Picasso’s Les Demoiselles d’Avignon is shown going

down with the ship – though that is pure cinematic

fantasy, unless the picture hanging at the Museum of

Modern Art in New York isn’t all it seems.

Some of the opulence and glamour of that era was

recaptured in 2003 and 2004, when passengers on NCL’s

Norwegian Dawn sailed with a collection of original oil

paintings by Renoir, Matisse, van Gogh and Monet,

exhibited in the vessel’s Le Bistro restaurant. On loan

from Tan Sri Lim Kok – the chairman of Star Cruises,

NCL’s parent company – the collection included Monet’s

Vétheuil de Soleil, Matisse’s Nu au Turban, one of Renoir’s

La Baigneuse paintings and van Gogh’s Un Parc

au Printemps – alone estimated to be worth more than

£4 million. It was said at the time that the value of the

paintings in this one restaurant exceeded that of the

entire art collection on most other cruise ships.

Cruise passengers need something

to look at other than the changing

seascape. Why not a £4 million van

Gogh or 25 prints by Andy Warhol?

Norman Miller explores the long

tradition of cruise lines buying art

ARTDECKO

PAINTING BY NUMBERS

£80 MILLION Amount spent on

art by Celebrity Cruises. £4 MILLION

Value of one painting on board

Norwegian Dawn. 40,000sqft Area of

mural on hull of Norwegian

Breakaway. £50,000 Amount

bid at auction by one

cruise passenger on art

worth only £6,500.

Travel trunk Bert Rodriguez’s

installation, in the grand

foyer of Celebrity Reflection,

features a real tree suspended

in mid-air, mirrored by another

made of cast aluminium

U LT R A S A I L


In addition, Norwegian Dawn’s stairwells were hung with

25 signed, numbered silkscreen prints by Andy Warhol.

These days, NCL has switched its focus to hull art – but

on other cruise ships, the tradition of displaying historic

works of art continues. Royal Caribbean and its sister line,

Celebrity Cruises, have spent more than $120 million

(about £80 million) on art over the past 15 years, amassing

one of the world’s largest corporate collections featuring

about 15,000 contemporary works. Artists on the fleet

inventory include Robert Rauschenberg, Joseph Beuys,

Marc Quinn, Anish Kapoor and Vik Muniz.

Celebrity Cruises’ burgeoning collection is curated by

Mariangela Capuzzo, the creative director of International

Corporate Art (ICArt). “Their ships have become

a platform for a stellar art collection,” she says, “with work

by important established, mid-career and emerging

artists. They [Celebrity Cruises] give us a budget and the

freedom to buy, and we try to create a museum-like

experience for guests on board.”

Rather than take a scatter-gun approach, Capuzzo

builds collections on a theme. With her budget of

$4.1 million (about £2.7 million) for Celebrity Reflection,

she combined suitable pieces from the fleet’s collection

with 130 new purchases on the theme “The Seductiveness

of a Reflection”. Works include Mirror Flower by Jeff

Koons, plus large-scale commissions including Bert

Rodriguez’s installation in the upper grand

foyer, featuring an entire tree suspended in mid-air,

mirrored by another made of cast aluminium.

W hen installing art on ships, safety is paramount.

Wood must be fire-treated and any resins

approved by the International Maritime

Organization. No work can contain plexiglass, which can

emit toxic chemicals in a fire. And because there is so

much natural light on modern cruise ships, paintings are

rarely displayed behind glass, which is too reflective.

For the eight works on Celebrity Mercury, Capuzzo

began working with the artists while the ship was still

being built in Germany, using drawings rather than

existing spaces. At Hurtigruten, too, art is integrated into

ship design long before a vessel goes to sea. “The

purchasing of art is part of the new building project,” says

Kathryn Beadle, managing director of Hurtigruten UK,

adding that works are chosen to reflect the Norwegian

landscape and the waters plied by a particular ship.

MS Trollfjord features the expressionistic paintings of

Kaare Espolin Johnson, inspired by the Lofoten fishing

industry and the hardships of the High North. On

MS Fram, the fleet’s newest ship, works by contemporary

Greenland artists reflect its mainly Polar routes.

“Hurtigruten brings its guests closer to the culture of

the regions travelled through,” says Beadle, “while at the

same time promoting local artists.” At smaller ports,

some are invited to bring their work on board – a rare

chance to exhibit, given the difficulty of the terrain and

the distances separating them from the nearest gallery.

On its ships, P&O Cruises showcases British artists.

Commissioning duties fall to Tom Tempest-Radford,

a corporate art buyer, who works with the interior

designers of each new vessel built to come up with

a “look” before finding the right British artist to fulfil it.

P&O was an early champion of David Hockney, buying

works when he was still a student at the Royal College of

Art. More recent recipients of P&O patronage have

included Julian Wild, Halima Cassell, Paul Wright and

Martha Winter. “Most of the artists have gone from

strength to strength since they were first commissioned by

P&O,” Tempest-Radford points out – so scribble down

those names now as you wander the gangways.

Some cruise ships serve as satellite salerooms for

established art dealers. Silversea vessels host the Andrew

Weiss Gallery, selling museum-quality work including

ceramics by Pablo Picasso, bronzes by Salvador Dalí,

works by Chagall, Miró, Henry Moore and Modigliani,

plus photography from the 1930s and 1940s by star

practitioners such as Bert Stern.

Cunard’s new Queen Elizabeth is home to an

outpost of Clarendon Fine Art, with potential purchases

ranging from art deco paintings to silverware by Asprey.

Royal Caribbean, meanwhile, has used its Allure of the

Seas as a gallery selling the work of

Romero Britto, a Brazilian pop artist.

Be wary, however, of ship-board

auctions. A tide of complaints – and even

legal actions – have resulted from passengers parting with

large sums, only to discover they have bought work worth

far less than the pre-sales hype suggested. Some have

even had their purchases identified as fake by experts

back on shore. One cruise customer who went to court

spent more than $70,000 (£50,000) on works that turned

out to be worth nearer $10,000.

For sheer pedigree, it is hard to beat a royal artist –

such as the master woodworker Viscount Linley, whose

superlative “fitting” for Cunard blurs the boundary

between décor and art. The 18ft-tall marquetry panel,

his largest creation to date, spans two-and-a-half decks in

the Queen Elizabeth’s grand lobby and depicts the port

bow of its historic namesake seen from sea level. On

Queen Elizabeth’s sister ship, Queen Victoria, Cunard has

maintained a long company tradition of commissioning

new royal sculpture or portraits, in this case a painting of

the Duchess of Cornwall by Richard Stone.

As well as exhibiting art, Cunard brings artists on

board to talk about their work. Other companies offer

enlightenment through technology. On some ships

operated by Celebrity Cruises, passengers are given iPads

loaded with the locations of various works on board,

along with relevant information. Holland America Line,

meanwhile, offers self-guided tours using MP3 players to

interpret an eclectic mix of art on its 15 ships. Worth

millions of dollars, its collection ranges from17th-century

Dutch masters to Pop Art by Andy Warhol and Roy

Lichtenstein, medallions by Frank Lloyd Wright and

beautifully crafted aluminium lift doors inspired by the

Chrysler Building in New York.

Surrounded by such sophistication and grandeur, it is

hard not to feel a certain frisson. As one cruise blogger

wrote, “I’m not even an art enthusiast but I felt something

strong and alluring about standing in the presence of the

master works displayed.” It’s a sign that the cruise

companies have customer satisfaction down to a fine art.

ON SOME SHIPS, PASSENGERSARE GIVEN IPADSLOADED WITH THE LOCATIONS OF VARIOUS WORKS OF ART ON BOARD

Marquet forces From top:

Viscount Linley’s 18ft-tall

marquetry panel on Queen

Elizabeth; Marilyn Monroe,

photographed by Bert Stern,

part of the Andrew Weiss

Gallery collection on

Silversea; Silver Shadow;

a Kaare Johnson painting on

MS Trollfjord; and Space

Venus, Salvador Dali’s

work on Silver Shadow


Redentore Terrazza SuiteTHE GRITTI PALACE, VENICE

0039 041 794611, luxurycollection.com/grittipalace

Price From £5,050 (all prices are per room per night)

Suite size 820sq ft, terrace 2,690sqft

Opened February 2013

USP The best views in Venice? The panorama from the Campanile in St Mark’s Square, for

one, the broad sweep of the Venetian lagoon from San Giorgio Maggiore for another. And

then? How about the extraordinary outlook from the Redentore Terrazza Suite of the Gritti

Palace, the city’s most historic hotel? Climb a spiral staircase from this top-floor suite and

you emerge on to a vast roof terrace for your exclusive use. Ignore, for now, the private

pool and the Terrazza’s sheer size – any terrace is rare in space-starved Venice, let alone

one this large – and instead let your eyes examine the astonishing view. The 360-degree

panorama takes in a sea of towers and rooftops, the Lido and distant lagoon, Giudecca

island, the loveliest stretch of the Grand Canal, the vast dome of Santa Maria della Salute

and the distant outline of the Redentore, the Palladian church that gives the suite its name.

The details The Redentore is not the largest or grandest of the Gritti’s 21 suites, all of

which emerged from a restoration project earlier this year that cost £36 million and left the

hotel closed for 15 months. Rather it is cosy and romantic, with rug-covered wooden floors,

a colour scheme of rich, warm reds, pretty floral silk wall-coverings and all the many

treasures – valuable antiques, prints, paintings, frescoes and fine period furniture – that

lend the Gritti its sumptuous period splendour. The two-storey suite has private lift access

from the lobby, discreetly integrated state-of-the-art technology, including Bang&Olufsen

televisions, as well as incidentals, such as the lavish Acqua di Parma toiletries. There is no

butler – but such is the Gritti’s level of service, it’s not something you are likely to miss.

How long you will spend in the suite is a moot point, however, because the chances are

you’ll be out on the terrace to eat, drink, sunbathe, share cocktails with a hundred of your

best friends, lie in the pool and look at the stars or simply to stare in wonder at one of the

most mesmerising views of any city in the world.

Tim Jepson

LCKI8KI8M<C��

A SKYLINE OF ONE’S OWNPrivate spa, private bar, fancy furnishings and iPad controls? Between them, these six new

suites have all the mod cons – but the superlative views they offer are the real draw

SU ITE DREAMS

LCKI8KI8M<C��

Top deck The view of the

Eiffel Tower (top) is just the start of the

360-degree panorama. The interiors,

above and left, by Pierre-Yves

Rochon, mix old and new styles

YOU FEEL AS THOUGH YOU ARE

ON A SHIP, WITH WAVE UPON WAVE OF

HAUSSMANN’S GRID-LIKE STREETS

BELOW YOU

The PenthouseFOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V, PARIS

0033 149 527000, fourseasons.com/paris

Price From £16,950

Suite size 1,630sq ft

Opened May 2012

USP It’s like having your own pied-à-terre, but with five-star

service – apart from one small gripe: the waiter was 10 minutes

late with our room-service order. He swiftly poured us a glass of

crisp Sancerre and we wandered out from the conservatory

on to a balcony that seems to overlook the whole of Paris.

Right on cue, the lights of the Eiffel Tower sparkled into life in

front of us. “Yes, I ‘ad a word wiv zem,” said the errant waiter,

without missing a beat. All those who serve in the George V’s

penthouse suite have an answer for everything, it seems.

Out on the main balcony, you feel as though you are on

the prow of a ship, with wave upon wave of Haussmann’s

grid-like streets below you. The view of the Eiffel Tower may

be the show-stopper but even on the haziest of days the

360-degree panorama takes in the Sacré Coeur Basilica and

the American Cathedral in all their glory.

A winding staircase takes you up to a smaller, higher, more

intimate balcony (the bridge, perhaps) where the perspective

is even better: from there you can make out the rooftops of the

Panthéon, Invalides and Madeleine. Even the bedroom comes

complete with a private balcony and four-poster day bed.

The details Housed on the eighth floor, this welcoming and

spacious suite feels more like a private apartment than part

of a hotel. Elegant and contemporary, rather than extravagant

or ornate, the space, created by Pierre-Yves Rochon,

successfully blends old and new: think Baccarat crystal

glassware and Second Empire furniture, as well as iPads,

plasma screens and an infinity bath with underwater lighting.

But it is the little things that set this suite apart: the pair

of reading glasses for guests who might have forgotten theirs,

the alternative set of toiletries (for those who don’t like Bulgari

products, there is Sodashi), the plasma television hidden

behind a mirror, the gargantuan walk-in shower surrounded

by a winter garden of white orchids (by the master florist Jeff

Leatham) and the second bathroom by the front door for

those in a hurry to leave. Not that you will ever want to.

Charles Starmer-Smith

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Suite MeME LONDON

0808 234 1953, melia.com

Price From £3,180


Opened April 2013

USP There isn’t another room in London like this,

at the top of Foster+Partners’ architecturally

adventurous hotel, with a pyramid-shaped space

at its heart. Because the second-floor living room

of the duplex suite is round and encased in glass,

sitting in it is like being in a lighthouse, overlooking

a sea of roofs, cars and people below. Across the

road, guests in the One Aldwych hotel are getting

undressed, unaware that from this glass eyrie you

can see everything. To the west, Nelson’s Column

rises into the sky, with Buckingham Palace

glowing golden behind, and to the east are the

glinting skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. Inside,

you’re encased in a glass cocoon, with speakers

in every ceiling, an events manager to organise

private dinners and drinks – and direct access

to Radio, the hotel’s rooftop bar.

The details If the entrance hall outside feels

slightly mausoleum-like, clad in black marble and

dimly lit, the interior of the suite couldn’t be any

lighter or brighter. However, there is minimal

colour. Furniture, candles, soap, towels, carpets,

marble floors, flowers – even the One Flew Over

the Cuckoo’s Nest-style padded leather walls –

are white. There aren’t many places to lounge,

either. Should you and your guests want to sit, you

can do so in a long row on a white upright

banquette – unless you fancy lying almost supine

in a sculpted leather armchair or perching

downstairs around a white oval dining table.

The bedroom, with a secluded balcony, is cosy,

but with a walk-in wardrobe, marble bathroom

with generous shower and oval bathtub (plus

Apivita amenities), who needs a huge bedroom?

Besides, who wants to sleep when there is so

much to do and guests have so many toys to play

with? There’s a Bose audio system, three

televisions, spa treatments, a “mind and body”

minibar, an iPad – and a complicated electronics

system to control them all. Then there is a

charming “Aura” team member to help you work

the lights/phones/music and deliver sensational

Italian cuisine from Cucina Asellina. The guests

before me, apparently, drank and danced until

4am. They had the right idea; in a suite designed

for partying, why would you do anything else?

Lisa Grainger

JW SuiteJW MARRIOTT MARQUIS HOTEL DUBAI

00971 4414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

Price From £8,750


Opened February 2013

USP Forget Tibet. The new roof of the world is this airy presidential suite

crowning a 1,164ft skyscraper overlooking Dubai’s emerging Business Bay

district. It is at the top of the world’s tallest hotel, one of only two properties

in Marriott’s vast portfolio to be granted the supreme title of Marquis. Your

front door opens on the 69th floor, between a glitzy cocktail lounge on the

70th and a smart restaurant serving prime steaks on the 68th. Inside is a

contemporary two-bedroom suite spread over two storeys, with floor-to-ceiling

windows so guests can drink in the master-of-the-universe views. Point the

chrome-plated binoculars one way and there are the golden beaches and

turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf. Swivel round, and the uncaring desert

yomps all the way to Oman. At night the glittering towers and ceaseless traffic

of this fast-growing city blaze like the myriad jewels in its famous gold souk.

The details The JW, one of a pair of identical penthouse suites, faces the sea

and catches the sunset; the next-door Marquis Suite looks towards the city

and the spire of Burj Khalifa. The decor is play-it-safe − executive black meets

silvery grey, Middle-Eastern plush mingles with Asian calm. The spacious

entrance lounge is a 21st-century take on the Arabic majlis where guests are

traditionally welcomed, with wooden latticework recalling the mashrabiya

window. From the private bar and dining room, guests climb a curved staircase

to the master bedroom and marble bathroom with Jacuzzi. There is a smaller

en-suite twin bedroom, and a grand study with a big desk and panoramic views

that will undoubtedly inspire some blue-sky thinking. Soothing treatments can

be arranged in the private spa room, where there is mood lighting, a Bose

sound system and tip-top service. When it’s time for bed the curtains, lights

and air conditioning are controlled by a touch-screen tablet, so you can truly

fall asleep with your head in the clouds.

Nigel Tisdall

Between desert and sea Outside and

inside the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai.

Below: a tablet controls the curtains

İstanbul

www.goturkey.comTurkish Culture and Tourism Office

Tel: 020 7839 7778 | www.gototurkey.co.uk


Presidential SuiteWALDORF ASTORIA BERLIN

0049 308 140000,

waldorfastoriaberlin.com

Price From £4,215


Opened January 2013

USP The area around the Zoologischer

Garten may be a mix of Sixties office

blocks and neon-fronted shops, but

this district is on the up. The opening

of the Waldorf Astoria is testament to

that, and its Presidential Suite, at the

peak of the city’s fourth-tallest

building, provides an illuminating

360-degree panorama. From the living

room, the nearby KaDeWe department

store peeps from behind the jagged

spire of the bombed Kaiser Wilhelm

Memorial Church; beyond, the

wooded expanse of Tiergarten gives

way to a volley of weighty landmarks,

from the Siegessäule Victory Column,

crowned by a glistening golden angel,

to the Brandenburg Gate, behind

a canopy of trees. The most surprising

view is much closer; one of the baths

overlooks the zoo, where the amble

of lumbering elephants and graceful

giraffes provides a calming contrast to

the distractions of this 24-hour city.

The details Taking up the whole

of the hotel’s 31st floor, the Waldorf

Astoria’s two-bedroom Presidential

Suite is a demurely decorated space,

soothingly finished in creams, golds

and browns. At one end of the

elongated sitting room, a dining table

and grand piano are on hand for

dinner guests; at the other, couches

surround a gas fire and a large-screen

television made unobtrusive by

a mirrored panel. Light and

uncluttered, the main bedroom leads

to a walk-in wardrobe and a sprawling

bathroom with a private balcony

positioned to catch the sunset.

During my stay, soon after the

suite opened, I encountered problems

with the gadgetry and, worse, a faulty

fire alarm that screeched into urgent

action in the middle of the night. I have

since been assured that these teething

problems were swiftly dealt with.

German efficiency triumphs again.

John O’Ceallaigh

Bellagio Rooftop Front SuiteGRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO, LAKE COMO

0039 0344 42491, grandhoteltremezzo.com

Price From £1,010

Suite size 650sq ft, plus 300sq ft private terrace

Opened May 2012

USP This rooftop eyrie may be five floors up from the shimmering

surface of Lake Como, but guests feel intimately connected with the

lake and its glamorous retro lifestyle. From the private terrace, you

can watch seaplanes land, see the battello (vintage ferry) ply the

waters between here and Bellagio – the village that gives the suite

its name – or look down on Ru, the hotel’s varnished 1961 launch,

cute as a bath toy and in every respect the opposite of a stretch

limo. From up here, the view is just water, mountains and sky. As the

sun sets, the majestic Grigne peaks glow pastel pink then fade to

granite grey, colours brought inside by Venelli Kramer, the interior

designer, who has melded old-world grandeur (chaises longues,

mirrors in gilt frames) with fruity contemporary

colours (cherry, plum, fuchsia) and stark white

furniture straight out of the Salone

Internazionale del Mobile in Milan. It’s exactly

what you might expect of a new suite

grafted on to a timeless grand hotel.

The details One of eight suites on the top

floor, the Bellagio can be combined with

a corner suite – or all eight can be rented as

one. It comprises a bedroom with walk-in wardrobe, a living room

with floor-to-ceiling windows, and a marble bathroom with double

sinks, a Jacuzzi with myriad water-jet settings and a roomy shower

with simple, chunky controls. Everything works perfectly, from the

Loewe sound system to the flatscreen televisions and the Jacuzzi

on the terrace, shielded from the wind by glass panels. Here,

prosecco in hand, you can hydrotherapise, catch rays and admire

that view. A butler is posted outside, should the plumbing fail.

Andrew Purvis

Blue view Water on the

Water, the floating pool at

the Grand Hotel Tremezzo.

Below: the balcony,

which also has a Jacuzzi

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THE ULTIMATE NEWS A N D A L S D E S T I N A T I O N

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A fine vintage Château Pape Clément,

where guests of the Magrez family

stay. A helicopter tour and wine-tasting

are included, and sightseeing in

Bordeaux is by Rolls-Royce

EDITED BY LISA GRAINGER

You can learn a surprising amount about wine from

inside a helicopter. As the pilot points out the

legendary châteaux of the Médoc or swoops

among the hills of Saint-Emilion, it’s a good insight

into the French notion of terroir and what it is that

makes each patch of vines and each wine different. A helicopter

flight is just one of the options laid on by Bernard Magrez Luxury

Wine Tourism, tailor-made wine tours around the three grand

Bordeaux vineyards of the maverick wine producer Bernard

Magrez: Château Pape Clément, Château Fombrauge and

Château La Tour Carnet. Tours are adapted to different levels of

knowledge, whether you want an introductory lesson, a vertical

tasting of the best vintages of Pape-Clément, or a course in

blending during which you create your own personal bottle.

Wine discovery is complemented by the chance to “satisfy

the dream of being a châtelaine for a night”. Cécile Daquin,

Bernard Magrez’s daughter, says: “We leave the key, and it’s as if

it were your home.” Guests spend the night in one of five

sumptuous bedrooms at the fanciful neo-Gothic Château Pape

Clément, where a team of backstage staff serves dinner and

stokes the fire, and the chef, Jérôme Bourcié, prepares gourmet

meals – as well as offering cookery lessons.

Excursions include sightseeing by Rolls-Royce in Bordeaux,

a boat trip and oyster feast in a traditional wooden pinasse on

the Bassin d’Arcachon, a speedboat ride up the Gironde estuary

to Île de Patiras, a tiny haven with a vineyard and lighthouse.

Daquin does her best to meet every personal whim: she once

organised a private concert in the cellars of Château Fombrauge,

so her guests could hear the Stradivarius bought by Magrez for

the first violin of the Orchestre National de Bordeaux Aquitaine.

Prices start at €880 (about £740) per person for helicopter flight,

wine tasting and one night at Château Pape Clément (0033 557

264306, luxurywinetourism.fr). Natasha Edwards

ACCESS ALL AREASPEOPLE WHO CAN

GET YOU TO PLACESOTHERS CAN’T

REACH

LIVE LIKE A CHÂTELAINE

intelligenceULTRA


100,000Number of muscles in an

elephant’s trunk

25,000Number of African elephants

killed by poachers in 2011: one-nineteenth of the

total population

3,950 Cost in pounds of a 1920s

Goyard weekend trunk (bentleyslondon.com)

TRAVEL BY NUMBERS

Abohemian traveller herself, Julia

Chaplin understood the sorts of

destinations her fellow “Gypsetters”

might enjoy: tropical places whose spirit

combined the carefree ethos of the gypsy

nomad with the sophistication of the jet set,

where creativity rather than cash ruled, where

the weather was warm and the surf swell.

Having criss-crossed the globe, she has

published her guide to the 10 top Gypset

spots, from the Aeolian Islands in Italy to Lamu

in Kenya and Todos Santos in Mexico. Each

chapter, accompanied by portraits of arty

people and hip places, includes tips on

where to stay and eat – and compelling

tales of historical figures who made

these places their homes. Part travelogue, part

style bible, part destination guide, this book is

as pretty as it is readable (assouline.com, £30).

THE BOOK

Michael Brand, director of the Art

Gallery of New South Wales, offers

a visual alternative for visitors to

Sydney during the Lions rugby

tour this summer.

What is special about

your gallery?

We have an outstanding

collection of Australian art, right

beside the Royal Botanic Gardens –

and incredibly knowledgeable guides,

including a few who dress in character. A loud and

very cheeky fruit bat, for instance, leads tours of our

Aboriginal collection and a beguiling Barbarella-type

figure takes contemporary art tours.

What should visitors see if they have only

three hours to spare?

Yiribana, our gallery for Aboriginal art, and our suite

of recently re-installed galleries for 20th-century

Australian art. Plus, if they have time, the

19th-century Australian paintings in our original

Victorian galleries and our historical Asian collection

housed in a beautiful “lantern” gallery. They could

finish in our cafe overlooking Sydney Harbour.

Which is the gallery’s most popular work?

Fire’s On, painted in 1891 by the Australian artist

Arthur Streeton, which will be a highlight of this

autumn’s Australian exhibition at the Royal Academy.

And the most controversial?

The white-on-white painting

Unknowing, from 2002, by the

London-based Iranian Shirazeh

Houshiary, always attracts

attention for its apparent

minimalism, which veils the

laborious application of countless

Arabic characters to the canvas.

Which artists should no one miss?

We have the largest public collection of works

by the American artist Sol LeWitt, as well as

a fantastic collection of the works of the Aboriginal

artist Rover Thomas.

What exhibitions do you have coming up?

Of the 20 we show each year, we are most excited

about our next major summer exhibition, America:

Painting a Nation, the first survey of American

painting ever held in Australia. Opening on July 6, we

have Sydney Moderns, featuring Australian art from

1915 to 1940 and, on August 22, A Silk Road Saga,

which features an extraordinary late-sixth-century

white marble sarcophagus lent to us by the

Shaanxi History Museum in China.

What are the best things about your cafe?

The contemporary Australian cuisine, the indoor-

outdoor seating and the multicoloured parakeets

that swing from umbrella cables outdoors.

44,450Cost at an auction, in pounds,

of the swimming trunks worn by Daniel Craig

in Casino Royale

The inside track on the world’s greatest galleries and museums

THE BOHO BIBLE

ULTRA APP SOUVENIR SEARCH

MASTERCLASSLESSONS FROM GLOBAL EXPERTS

Yannick Alléno is a two-Michelin-

starred French chef whose dishes are

served at some of the world’s leading

hotels, such as the Royal Mansour in

Marrakesh. He specialises in “Cuisine

Moderne”, using techniques such as

extraction and cryoconcentration.

What is extraction?

The process of concentrating taste by

extracting pure juice. It has taken me

years to perfect, working with Bruno

Goussault at the Culinary Research

and Education Academy (CREA) in

Paris. I extract juice from every

ingredient, to create tastes that are

ultra-natural and concentrated.

So it’s all about sauces?

Sauces are the DNA of French

cuisine. They first appeared in the

18th century. Then Auguste Escoffier

created the “fonds” (stock) and, 70

years later, nouvelle cuisine gave us

“les jus courts”. Extraction came next.

Does this require specific tools?

Yes, the Cookcooning, by Sylvie

Coquet – an airtight container, in

which you can cook a dish without

it losing moisture, heat or taste.

Is there a dish you’ve created

that’s unlike any other?

For the Cheval Blanc in Courchevel

I macerated meat in barrels from

Pierre Lurton and Château d’Yquem

and it took on amazing flavours. Also,

I love New York hot dogs and created

a “veau-chaud” for Terroir Parisien,

my Paris restaurant. It’s calf’s head in

bread, with gribiche sauce: delicious!

A French dish, bursting with

flavour, which is easy to make?

A thin strawberry tart with berries

from Orgeval, on Île-de-France.

DIRECTOR’S CUT

Dazzling Sol LeWitt’s Wall

Drawing #1091 (2003)

Private Jet ConciergePRIVATEFLY (Free)

Skyscanner and Kayak are

useful apps for comparing the

prices of commercial flights,

but what about private jets?

Several companies offer this

service, the best being

PrivateFly. While its rivals such

as BlackJet and Globe Air are limited by destination or aircraft type, this UK-

based site monitors a global network of more than 7,000 aircraft. Once you

have chosen your airports and flight times, its approved operators quote

against each other. Prices are naturally in the thousands, although you can

save money by searching the unused “empty legs” on one-way flights. With

24-hour support and the ability to arrange charters within 90 minutes, it is

a fine and surprisingly affordable step up from first class. Mark Wilson

KEMOSABE

T his family-owned shop in central

Aspen is the place to find cowboy

gear: not just bolo ties and Stetsons, but

the most covetable hand-stitched cowboy

boots in the West. Best-sellers, from 200

styles, include the Rios Distressed (left)

in summery hues (£400) and the

Chocolate Lieutenant, in oiled calf

(£650). For shoppers who can’t get to

Colorado, items are for sale online –

including cowboy hats that can

be customised

(kemosabe.com)

� �LCKI8KI8M<C�

COUNTDOWN toTheCapeWith Cape Town set to become World Design Capital next year, Lisa Grainger reveals her favourite spots in and around the city

MASTER SUITE

SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER

Design A spacious 1,216sq ft inside,

and 187sq ft on the balcony. The living

and dining room has a large flat-screen

television, free bar and guest bathroom

and there are two double bedrooms,

each with ensuite marble bathroom,

double basins, separate showers and

bathtubs, and walk-in wardrobes.

USP Book this suite and you will be

upgraded to a business-class flight from

wherever you fly to join the ship. There

is complimentary use of an iPad,

king-sized Suite Slumber beds with

Egyptian cotton linens, as well as free

use of the phone for 15 minutes and the

internet for 30 minutes. The butler

delivers a newspaper each morning

and canapés each evening.

Why book? The master suite is an

impressive, well laid-out place to stay

with so much included that you really

do feel privileged.

Price From £14,359 per person for 10

nights in the Baltic in July, including

flights, transfers, drinks, excursions, all

meals, tips and one-night pre-cruise

hotel stay (02380 682280, rssc.com).

QUEENS GRILL GRAND DUPLEX

QUEEN MARY 2

Design The Balmoral and Sandringham

Grand Duplex suites are 2,249sq ft

inside, with a 300sq ft balcony, and split

over two levels. Upstairs there is

a bedroom and marble bathroom with

a whirlpool tub and downstairs are the

living and dining area with a flat-screen

television and a marble guest bathroom.

USP The butler keeps you stocked up

on complimentary wines, spirits and

canapés throughout the cruise – so the

exercise bike on the landing (with sea

views while you pedal) could be useful.

There is access to a private lounge and

restaurant with single-seating dining, an

iPad with daily paper downloads, and

priority embarkation, disembarkation

and luggage-delivery privileges.

Why book? It’s a perfect pad for

parties and there is private dining away

from the crowds.

Price From £12,679 per person for

a seven-night transatlantic crossing

from Southampton to New York in

August, including a one-way economy

flight but excluding speciality dining

(0843 374 0000, cunard.co.uk)

OWNER’S SUITE

MARINA

Design The suite, furnished by Ralph

Lauren Home, spans the width of the

ship, giving 1,400sq ft inside. The foyer,

with grand piano, leads to a living and

dining room, and the 626sq ft balcony

has a whirlpool and television.

USP The butler, on call 24/7, will serve

dinner from the speciality restaurants.

There is free loan of a laptop and iPad,

plus a fridge of goodies on arrival.

Why book? In terms of layout and

decor, this is luxury with a capital L.

Price From £10,548 for 14 days in the

Baltic in August, with flights and meals

(0845 505 1920, oceaniacruises.com).

WINTERGARDEN SUITE

SEABOURN ODYSSEY

Design The 914sq ft suite incorporates

a living room, a dining table for six,

a bathroom for guests and a bedroom

with bathroom and whirlpool bath.

USP Half of the 183sq ft balcony is

enclosed by glass, with a tub and day

bed for sky-lit lounging.

Why book? What the suite lacks in

size, Seabourn makes up for with

personal service that is second to none.

Price From £12,799 per person for 12

nights in Asia in November, including

flights, private transfers, one night pre-

cruise hotel stay, meals, drinks, Wi-fi and

tips (0843 373 2000, seabourn.co.uk).

OWNER’S SUITE

SILVERSEA SILVER SPIRIT

Design A stylish one-bedroom suite

with 1,102sq ft of living space, plus

a 190sq ft balcony (a two-bedroom

suite increases the size to 1,668sq ft).

Both bedrooms have ensuite marble

bathrooms with separate showers

and bath tubs, and Bulgari toiletries.

The living room has separate sitting

and dining areas, a flat-screen

television, guest bathroom and

complimentary bar.

USP There is an array of extras at no

charge, from laundry, dry-cleaning

and pressing to four hours of internet

use, two hours of phone use and a daily

newspaper. The butler will also book

one complimentary dinner for two at

Le Champagne, Silversea’s Relais

&Châteaux wine restaurant (usually

£20 a head, without wine).

Why book? The little extras cost

Silversea little but make you feel special.

Price From £11,450 per person for

a nine-night Mediterranean cruise in

October, including drinks and tips, but

excluding flights and speciality rest-

aurants (0844 251 0837, silversea.com).

TURNING LEFT

5REASONS TO GO

Cape Town is the perfect city for first-time visitors to Africa: no visas are required, most

locals speaks English and, as its clocks are only two hours ahead of Britain, jet lag is minimal. It is

particularly appealing to lovers of the outdoors: around the peninsula are pretty beaches to visit

(including a couple, at Betty’s Bay and Boulders, with penguins), the impressive Table Mountain to

climb and the Kirstenbosch Garden (this year celebrating its centenary) to explore. An hour away

are the winelands and their Cape Dutch homesteads and fine restaurants. The city will be World

Design Capital next year, showcasing the best of South African creativity,

with art exhibitions, events and international talks (capetown2014.co.za).

4RESTAURANTS

The city’s food reflects its inhabitants’ ethnicity – from French

Huguenot to Malay and Zulu – as well as its position between the sea and

rich farmland. Star chefs include Cape Town’s first Relais&Chateaux

Grand Chef, Peter Tempelhoff, who whips up modern cuisine in Cape Dutch

surroundings at the Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia (0027 21 794 2137,

cellars-hohenort.com); Luke Dale-Roberts, who delivers inventive platters at the

Pot Luck Club in the artsy-crafty Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock (0027 21 447 0804, thepotluckclub.

co.za); and Michael Broughton, known for French-inspired dishes at Kleine Zalze in Stellenbosch

(0027 21 880 8167, kleinezalze.com). Babylonstoren, a restored 1690 farm in the Drakenstein

Valley, grows fruit and vegetables in its glorious gardens (0027 21 863 3852, babylonstoren.com).

3HOTELS

The city has an excellent range, from elegant five-stars to characterful guesthouses. The

Mount Nelson is the grand old lady, known for high teas (0027 21 483 1000, mountnelson.co.za).

Outside the city, Steenberg has pretty 17th-century buildings surrounded by gardens and vines

(0027 21 713 2222, steenberghotel.com). At the V&A Waterfront, the One& Only offers slick service

and a restaurant headed by Rueben Riffel (0027 21 431 5888, capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com).

2ESSENTIAL READS

Long Walk to Freedom, Nelson Mandela’s autobiography, is a moving account of his early

life, including 27 years in prison. Disgrace, the literary masterpiece that won JM Coetzee the Booker

Prize a second time, explores the new South Africa struggling to come to terms with its guilt.

1THING YOU CANNOT MISS

Taking the cable-car up Table Mountain (tablemountain.net) on a sunny day and soaking in

the views, then hiking through the national park, home to the richest variety of plants on earth.

Jane Archer tests the best suites at sea

Top table A farm-

turned-restaurant,

Babylonstoren, known

for fresh produce.

Far left: intricate

local bead-craft

Ocean sounds

The Owner’s

Suite, with grand

piano, on board

the Marina,

an Oceania

Cruises ship

PUT THE EXCITEMENT BACK INTO TRAVELJOIN THE LOYALTY PROGRAMME THAT OVER 3 MILLION MEMBERS ARE TALKING ABOUT AND DISCOVER OVER 330 UNIQUE HOTELS AND THEIR DESTINATIONS ACROSS THE GLOBE

For further information visit gha.com by global hotel alliance


he tennis star Roger Federer,

currently ranked number two in the world, has his

main home in his native Switzerland, but spends

much of the year travelling with his wife,

Mirka, and their two daughters. His charitable

foundation funds the education of thousands of

children in Africa. This month he will defend his

seventh Wimbledon men’s singles title.

How many holidays do you take a year?

Two or three. I have to fit holidays around

tournaments, particularly the grand slams, in

Melbourne, Paris, London and New York.

Do you take your family to tournaments?

For now, yes. My twin daughters, Charlene and

Myla, are only three, so we still travel as a family,

which will change when they start school.

What is your favourite city?

Rome. I am a sucker for those old traditional

places, and Rome is as good as it gets, particularly

when you throw in Italian food. Last time I was

there, I went on an open-top bus ride with my

children, which was wonderful. You are admiring

one beautiful old building, then you notice an

even better one across the street.

Your idea of a perfect holiday spot?

A place where I can get away from it all with my

family and enjoy some peace and privacy. The last

family holiday I took was in the Maldives, which

fitted the bill perfectly – it was the third time I had

been. I think, if I did a non-physical office job,

I would probably want to be a little bit more

adventurous on holiday – but, for now, I just

want to relax and feel the sand between my toes.

Where else have you visited recently?

Mauritius, the Seychelles, Thailand, the

Caribbean… As you can tell from that list, I like

beautiful places with quiet beaches.

Which Caribbean island?

I would rather not say.

So privacy is important to you?

I don’t mind fans coming up in a friendly,

respectful way. That’s all part of the fun of being

a top tennis player. But if people take pictures

without permission, particularly if my children

are in the shot, I feel uncomfortable.

Where do you train between tournaments?

I use Dubai as my training base and own an

apartment there – I have been going since 2004.

In the winter, it offers the ideal climate for training.

The heat can be intense – I have known

temperatures as high as 48C – but I don’t mind.

It is also perfectly located for when I have to

travel to Australia or the Far East.

What else do you like about Dubai?

It’s a fun place. All those skyscrapers are amazing.

A few years ago, Andre Agassi and I played

a game of tennis on the highest court in the

world, on the helipad of the Burj Al Arab hotel.

I recently had breakfast on the 123rd floor of the

Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, in the

middle of a thunderstorm. That was pretty cool.

Any favourite Dubai restaurants?

La Petite Maison is fabulous. There are also some

great restaurants on the Palm, including Voi,

which serves French-influenced Vietnamese food.

Where else in Asia appeals?

So many places. It is an extraordinary part of the

world. I always enjoy trips to China. My tennis

schedule involves regular events in Shanghai

and Beijing, but the big cities are just a tiny part

of the story. I have also been to India with Unicef,

which was an incredible experience, and I really

enjoyed Japan. Further down the line, I would love

to go to Vietnam and Cambodia.

How about Africa?

Well, my mother is South African, but I haven’t

seen many other African countries – she didn’t

take me when I was a child. But I am looking

forward to exploring the continent properly

when I have a bit more time on my hands. Top

of my wish-list would probably be Botswana,

the Victoria Falls and Egypt.

Do you follow other sports while travelling?

Wherever I am in the world, I take an interest in

sports with which the locals are obsessed.

In Australia, I follow cricket, and in the United

States, I follow basketball and the NFL.

How about shopping?

If I go shopping for clothes, I am like most men –

I don’t hang about. I get what I am after – say,

a shirt, a pair of jeans and some trainers – and I’m

done. I like to think I have a good, quick eye for

fashion. I’ve outgrown the time when I did dumb

things like dressing head to toe in white.

Any favourite labels?

I recently bought a pair of Louis Vuitton shoes that

are the most comfortable I have ever owned.

Where do you stay during tournaments?

During Wimbledon, I rent a house in Wimbledon

Village, otherwise – for example during the US

Open in New York – I stay in city-centre hotels.

How does NYC compare to Wimbledon?

There is so much to take in: shopping, theatres,

restaurants, art galleries. I always feel super-happy

when I arrive, but not too unhappy when I leave.

What do you do when a big game is over?

Win or lose, I think it is important to thank the

people who have come to support me. My

entourage is much bigger than the one you see

in the players’ box – there were 75 of us at last

year’s French Open. So we will go out somewhere

together, probably to a nice restaurant. I hate

those noisy nightclubs where you can’t chat.

If you win, do you celebrate with a drink?

Of course – and these days, it tends to be

champagne. I have recently become the brand

ambassador for Moët&Chandon, following in the

footsteps of Scarlett Johannson, which is quite

an honour. I feel part of a glamorous tradition.

Have you visited the Champagne region?

Moët&Chandon took me on a tour of their

vineyards last year and I stayed at the Château

de Saran near Epernay, where the company

entertains VIPs. It was a wonderful experience.

Interview by Max Davidson

TRAVELLING LIFE Roger FedererThe Swiss tennis star on the heat and skyscrapers of his second home, Dubai, his eye for fashion and touring with twins

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