Tutorial Make Your Own Hakama by Taeliac

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How to Draft & Make Fakie Hakama

by Samantha Lemieux (`taeliac) Taeliac Studio Cosplay – www.BeAnime.com

Thistutorialisonhowtomakefakehakamathatarebothcomfortableandreallydramaticandstylizedforcosplaypurposes.Thetutorialwillnottellyouhowtotackdownthepleatsintostraightknifepleats,however,becausethatwillbeinawholeothertutorial.Thiswilljusttellyouhowtodraftthepattern,andhowtoputthemtogether.

Theycanbedoneinoneoftwoways,dependingonwhatyouwantthemtobelike:theycaneitherhaveanelasticwaist,ortheycanhavetheslitsinthesides,withtiestoholdthemon.Theprocessisbasicallythesameforboth,andIwillbeshowingyouhowtodothemwiththeelasticwaist,buttherewillbenoteswhensomethingchangesfordoingthesideslitsandties.Thisismeanttobeanintroductiontohowtomakehakamapantsforcosplaypurposes.Thesehakamaarenottraditional‐withthisdraft,thefrontandthebackofthehakamaareusingthesamepattern.Ifyouwantthemtobemoretraditional,however,*you*cangoaheadandreworkthepatterntoallowforadifferentfrontandbackpleatdesign.


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Measurements Needed &

Important Information

Forthistutorial,youwillneedthefollowingmeasurements:

- Waist- Hip- Waisttofloor

Tohelpyouwithkeepingtrackoftheimportantinformationneededwhiledrafting,I’veleftthispagewithblankfillinspots.Asyou’regoing,writedowntheimportantinfoonthispageintheappropriatespot,soyoucanreferenceitlateron.

YourMeasurements

Waist:____________

Hip:____________

Waisttofloor:____________

StartingNumbers

StartingWidth:____________

StartingLength:____________

PleatInformation

#ofpleats:____________

Depthofpleats:____________

Randomscribblingspace


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Drafting the Pattern

Now,personally,Iusually"draft"mypatternssmall,onasheetofgridpaper,toplanitoutbeforegoingontothefabric.Andthen,Itakethat,anddrawrightonmyfabric.

Ifyouareuncomfortablewithdoingthis,youcanuseanysortofrollofpaperforthis(wrappingpaperworkswonderfully‐it'swide,andcomesinlongsheets)tomaketheoriginalpattern.Itisgoingtobeuptoyouhowyouwanttodothis,it'smorebasedonyourcomfortlevelwithdrawingonfabricaccurately.

Forthesehakama,thereare4panelsthatmakeupthepants‐twofrontandtwobackpieces,andtheyareallidentical,soyouonlyhavetodraftthisonce.

Starting Width

1.First,weneedtofindthemeasurementwe’regoingtoworkoffof.

Ifyouaremakingthehakamawiththeelasticwaistband,youwillbeworkingoffofyourhipmeasurement(thisistheoneIwillbedoingthroughoutthistutorial).

Ifyouaremakingthehakamawiththetiesandsideslits,youwillbeworkingoffofyourwaistmeasurement.

2.Takewhichevermeasurementyou'reworkingoffof,anddivideitby4(androundituptothenearesthalf,thereisn'treallyaneedtobethataccuratewiththis).

3.Then,add1½”tothatnumber.Thisisyourextraseamallowance(about¾”)toactuallysewthehakamatogether.

4.*ONLY*ifyouaremakinghakamawithsideslitsandties,subtractanadditional2”

Thisisthestartingwidthofyourhakama.You'renotreadytodraftitout,yet,becausewehaveafewmorethingstofigureout.Goaheadandwritethatonyourreferencepage,becausewe’llneeditagainshortly.

MyExample

1.Mystartinghipmeasurementis40”

2.Ithendivideby4,toget10”

3.10”+1½”seamallowance=11½”

11½”ismystartingwidth


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Thispartiseasytofigureout.Simplytakeyourwaisttofloormeasurement,plus3".THISISIMPORTANTTOREMEMBER:Thisgivesyou1"ofseamallowanceatthetop,anda2"hematthebottom!Yes,youwillhaveabighem.Yes,thereisareasonforthis‐theweightoftheextrafabricatthehem,andthesizeofit,willhelpthehakamatolayinthosenicewooblesatthebottom,versusjustflaringout.Itreallywillaffecthowtheylook,sojustpleasekeepremindingyourselfthatthereisa2"hemonthesepants.We'llgettothehemfasterthannormalpants,butjustkeepremindingyourselfofit.

Starting Length

MyExample

Mywaisttoflooris42”,so42”+3”is45”

45”ismystartinglength

Pleats

Well,rightnow,wejusthavesomenumbersthatcorrespondtoourbodysizes.Weneedtoaddthepleatstothehakama,though,toactuallymakehakama!

First,decideonhowdeepyouwantthepleatstobe.AsfarasIcantell,traditionalhakamapleatsareabout1"deep,butIlikedrama,soIhavemadetheone'sinthiscostume3"deep.

Youcangoanynumberyouwant,butifyougomuchover3",theystarttobecomeunwieldytosew,andyou'llgetheavierhakama.But,ifyouneedmore,additin‐thisisuptoyou!And,theydon'tallhavetobethesamedepth,buttheyreallylookmoredramaticiftheyare‐thewooblesatthebottomwillbemoreeven;P

Writedownhowmanypleatsyouwant,perpanel.

Whenyou'redoingthemathtoaddineachpleat,youneedtoconsiderthatpleatsneedtwicethedepthinfabrictomakethem;so,a3"deeppleatactuallyneeds6"offabrictomakeitwork.A2"deepfabricneeds4"offabric...yougettheidea!

Thisiswhy,whenitcomestofabricpurchasing,Irecommendyougetsomuchofit.You’llmorethanlikelyneedtoopenupyourfabricandcutjustoneatatime,theybecomeverylarge,veryfast.

Next,youneedtodecideonhowmanypleatsyouwant.Traditionally,therearethreepleatsinthefront(and,asthesearenottraditionalhakama,youcanhaveasmanyasyouwant!)

Yourlastdecision,atleastatthemoment,iswhereyouwouldlikethepleatstobe.Youcanevenlyspacethem,orputthemallclosertothecenterfront,ordosomethingcompletelydifferent.Itisnotvitalrightnowthatyouknowexactlywhereyouwantthem,butgetanideaofwhereyou’dlikethemtobe,itwillmakethedraftingaloteasier.Thisiswheredoingitonasmallsheetofpaperhelps…


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Drafting the actual pattern

Todraftoutyourpattern,youshouldstartdrawingarightangle:

Alongtheedge,writeSIDESEAMlikethediagramshows.Thetopseamiswhereyourpleatsaregoingtogo,thatisyourwaistline.

Ifyouaremakinghakamathatareputonwithties,notelastic,you'llwantto'chop'offpartofthisatanangle,atabout2"inalongthetoplineand8"downthesideseam.(rememberbefore,whenIhadyoutakeanextra2"offyourstartingwidth?Thisiswhy).Besuretomakeanoticeablemarkatthe8"downline,we'llneedthatlateronwhensewingittogether.

Ifyouaremakingelasticwaistbandhakama,noneedtodoanythingelse.

I'mgoingtoshowyoumypleatingpattern,andyoucanchoosetofollowitifyouwouldlike,orcomeupwithyourown.Yournumberswillchange,however,intheamountofspacingyou'llneedtoleavebetweeneachpleat.Oneachend(sideseamandcenterfront)youneedtoleaveatleast1",soyouactuallyhavesomeseamallowance.

Ifyou’llrememberfrommyexample,mystartingwidthis11½”.ThatistheamountofspaceIneedto"takeup",notincludingthepleats.So,mypleatingpatternisgoingtobe:

SIDESEAM

8”dow

n

2”in

SIDESEAM

SIDESEAM

4”spacePleat#16”space 3”space

Pleat#26”space 2”space

Pleat#26”space 2½”space

CENTERFRON

T


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Drafting the Pattern Ifyouaddtogetherthenumbersnottakenupbypleats(4+3+2+2.5)you’llgetthatstartingwidth,or11½”inthiscase.

ThemarkingsofthepleatsisjusthowI'musedtodoingit,soIcanquicklyseewherethepleatis,andwheretheactualwaistpartis.Thepartswiththelinethroughitarethepleats,andeachendofthepleatismarked,aswellasthemiddle.

Hooray!Youhavethetoplinedone!

Now,youwanttocompleteyourrectangle.Alongthesideseam,measuredownyourstartinglengthnumber,tothehemofyourpants.

Inmyexample,mystartinglengthis45”

But,youcan'tcutitoutnow,unlessyouwanttomakeahakamaskirt,orunsplithakama.Ifthatisthecase,goahead,andcutfourofthese,andyou'regoodtogo.Ifyouwantthemtobepants,however,weneedtoaddinthatall‐importantcrotchseam.

SIDESEAM

CENTERFRON

T

45”

Adding the crotch seam

PleaseNote:Thisisjustmyarbitrarymeasurementforacrotchseam‐youmayneedtomakeitlarger,ifyouarealargerperson,ormaywanttobringtheheightupifyouareshorter.But,thisshouldcovermostpeople,butifitdoesn'tworkout,youcanmostdefinitelychangethesenumbers.

We'regoingtonowmakeyourcrotchseam,branchingrightoffofyourexistingrectangle.

First,measuredownyourcenterfront(CF)seam11",andmakeamark:

SIDESEAM

11”down

CENTERFRON

T

Now,squaredofffromthat,makealineout7":

SIDESEAM

7”out

CENTERFRON

T


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Thisiswhatyouuseasaguidetodrawyourcurve:

SIDESEAM

CENTERFRON

T

And,yes,theseamallowanceshouldbeaddedinhere,too;PBecauseI'mtrickylikethat!

Now,you'regoingtodrawanotherline,allthewaydowntothehem,andthisisyournewINSEAMline(markitasinseam,soyoudon'tgetconfusedlateron).

Hooray!Youhaveyourpatternforyourhakama!You'regoingtoneedtocutfour(4)oftheseout,twoforthefront,andtwofortheback.Tofiguretheamountoffabricyou'llprobablyneed,justtakeyourstartinglength,andmultiplyitbyfour.Getthatamount,plusahalfofayardextra,fortheties.Goaheadandcutthem,beingsuretotransferallofthemarkingstothefabricpieces,andwe'llgetreadytostartsewing(thehardpartisover,bytheway,sofeelgoodifyoumadeitthroughallofthat!)

SIDESEAM

CENTERFRON

T

INSEAM

Sewing the Hakama

Alright!Thereareafewdifferentstepsdependingonwhattypeofhakamayou'remaking,butthesewingisbyfartheeasypart,althoughtheorderinwhichyou'regoingtobedoingthingsmaybealittledifferentthanyou'reusedtowithsewing.

Step 1: Sew the side seams together

First,we'regoingtoputthesideseamstogether,tomaketwopantlegs.Ifyouaremakingtheelasticwaisthakama,you'regoingtosewtheseamallthewayfromthetoptothebottom.

Goandpressthisseam.Pressingeveryseamwhenyousewitisthekeytohavinggoodlookinghakama.


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Sewing the Hakama

Ifyouaremakingthetiedhakama,youwillwanttosewthemfromthemark,8"down(Remember?Waybackatthebeginningwhenyouweredraftingthepattern,andIsaidtodotheanglething?),allthewaydown,leavingthattoppartopen.

Presstheseamopen,allthewayup,andthentopstitchtheopeningareadown.Thisiscreatingthefinishededgethere,soyoudon'thavetoworryaboutitlater.

Step 2: Hems

Nowisthetimetoputtheheminyourhakama.Youmaybewondering"whyamIputtingtheheminwhenonlyoneoftheseamsistogether?"andthesimpleansweris,it'saloteasiertodonow,thanlateronwhenthey'reallsewntogether.Theinseammaylookalittlebulkywhenit'salldone,butitisasmallpricetopayforthisbeingeasiertodonow.Tofinishthehem,youhavemanyoptions,suchasusingpinkingshears,awidezig‐zagovertherawedge,or,ifyouhaveaccesstoanoverlockmachine,doanoverlockonit.Eitherway,finishtheverybottom,rawedge,tokeepitfromfrayingwithlongdaysofwear.Then,stitchyourhemup,eitherbyhand,astraighttopstitch,or,ifyouaredaring,usingablindhemfootandstitchonyourmachine(Irefusetogointohowtodothis‐readthemanualifyoudon'tknowhowtouseyourblindhemfoot,becauseeachmachineisdifferent,andifyouhaven'tdoneitbefore,Ihighlyrecommendjusttopstitchingitinplace.)

Step 3: Pinning the pleats

Now,gobackuptothetopofyourhakama,andwe'regoingtostartpleating.Thisisthetimewhenyoucanchoosewhichdirectionyouwantyourpleatstogo‐youcanhavethempointingoutwardsorinwards‐thechoiceiscompletelyuptoyou.Traditionalhakamahavethempointinginwards,butyoudon'thavetodothatifyoudon'twantto.Pleatdirectionscanbeconfusingifyou’reavisualperson,tosaytheleast,sowhatIliketodoisusejustaplainoldstraightpin,andpinthepleatclosed.

Hakama,withthehemsputinthebottom,topstitcheddown.

SIDESEAM

Topstitchthefoldededgedown,ontheinside,soyoucan’tseetherawedgeanymore.


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Sewing the Hakama Then,turnyourgarmentsothatyou'reseeingtherightsidefacingoutwards,andplaywiththepleat,movingitsothatit'spointingoutwards,andinwards,andseewhichyoulikebetter.Heck,theyalldon'thavetogointhesamedirection,either;it'suptoyou,again,howyouwanttodothem.Onceyoufigureouthowyouwantthepleatstogo,pinthemdowninplace.

Ifyouhaveanypinslostsomewhereinthefoldsofthepleats,removethembeforestitchingthisdown!Otherwise,youmaywindupbreakingyoursewingneedle,ormessingupthestitchingandhavingtore‐doit.Thisfinalpictureshowswhatthehakamapleatslooklike,fromtherightside,witheverythingpinneddown.ThecrotchseamhereiswheretheCenterFrontis,sothepleatsarefacingtowardsthecenter.


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Sewing the Hakama

Thisisjustgoingtobeawayofholdingthepleatsinplace,sothatit'seasiertoworkwithfromhereonin.

You'regoingtoberemovingthisstitchlateron,justtoletyouknow.

Youcaneitherhandbasteormachinebastealongthetopofthepleats,alittlemorethan1"belowthetopseam(say11/4"down).Makesurethatthepleatsdon'tgetcaughtandtwisted

inthisstitch‐ifitdoes,takeitoutanddoitagain.Thiswilljustcreatenicelookingpleats,andthatisthewholepointofthesepants!

Step 4: Stitching the pleats down

Now,we'llgetthemtoactuallystartlookinglikepants!First,youaregoingtowanttosewtheinseamstogether,tocreatetwoseparatepantlegs.Youshoulddefinitelyhavetwo,separatepantlegs,ifthey'reattachedatallyou'vedonesomethingwrong(unlessyou'redoingtheskirthakama,thenyoushouldhaveaskirt...)

Step 5: Sewing the pant legs together

Now,takeyourtwopantlegs,andputtherightsidestogether,andsewthecrotchseamfromfronttoback,pinningthemtogethertobesurethattheinseamslineup.

Hooray!Youhavepants!Almost,butcloseenoughtoputthemonandbeagoon!

Step 6: Sewing the crotch seam

Fortheelasticwaistedband~

Cuttwo4"widestripsof45"widefabric,andsewthemtogethersoyouhaveonelongstrip.

Foldthisinhalfthelongway‐thisisyourwaistband.

Step 7: Ties and waistband

45” 45” 4”


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Sewing the Hakama Pickonesideofyourhakama‐thisisnowyourfront.Startingattheseamatthecenterfront,pinyourwaistbandtothehakama,allthewayaround.

Whenyouhittheotherseam(nowthecenterbackseam),leavetheexcesshangingoffrightnow.Pintheotherhalfofthewaistbandon,andonceyouhitthecenterbackagain,leavetheexcesshangingoff.

Now,you'regoingtocuttheexcessfabricoff,exceptforanextra1"orso.

Takethisextrainch,andfolditintothewaistband,justtocreateanice,finishededgeonthecasing.Pressitflat,soitlookspretty.

Sewthewaistbandtothehakama,withtheseamallowancefacingtotheinside(rightsidestogether),1”downfromthetop(remember,that1”extraseamallowanceweaddedforthelength?That’swhatthisisfor.)Finishtheinsideedgehoweveryouseefit(Ichoosetouseanoverlockonit).

Fromhereonin,thephotosthatgoalongwiththeinstructionsaredone

withascrapoffabric,togetthepicturesforyouall,asmyattemptatillustratingwhatneededtobedonewasatotal

failure.

So,ifthepieceI’mworkingwithseemsalittlesmall,comparedtowhatyou’reworkingwith,don’tworry:DThesearejusttoshowyouthestepswithpictures.

Pressyourcasingagain,tomakeitlooknice.Feedtheelasticthroughthiscasing,andseworpinclosed.Iusuallycuttheelastic4"shorterthanyourwaistmeasurement,andleaveitjustpinnedtogether,sothatmycustomerscanadjustitasneededwhenthey'rewearingit,tomakeitmorecomfortableforthem.

And!Youshouldbedone!Hooray!(unlessyouweremakingthehakamawithties,thenyourinstructionsarenext…)


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Sewing the Hakama Forthehakamawithties~

Forthistypeofhakama,you'regoingtowanttocuttwo4"widestripsof45"widefabricalso,butdonotsewthemtogether.Instead,findthemiddleofeachoftheties,andmarkthemwithapin.

Leavingthetiesopen(i.e.don’tfoldtheminhalfyet,eitherway)matchthecenterpinwithyourcenterfrontorcenterbackseam.Stitchthetiesdowntothehakama,withrightsidestogether.

Stitchinglocationontheinside… …andwhatitlookslikewiththetiefoldedup

Now,pressthewaistbandup,eventhepartsthataren’tsewndown(theextratielength–we’llbefinishingtheentiretieatonce!)(pic@right)

Next,folddownthetoprawedge,matchingittotherawedgethatyoujustpressedup.Ironthatedgedown,soitlooksnice.(pic@bottom)

Ifyouarealargerperson(withawaistofmorethan38”orso),youmayneedtomakethetieslonger,bycuttingmore4”widestrips,andsewingthem,edgetoedge,tocreatelongerties.(seeabove,withtheelasticwaistedhakama)

Don’tforget–thesetiesneedtogetallthewayaroundyourbody,andtieinaknot,sotheyshouldbeatleast6”longer

thanyourwaistmeasurement.

Fromhere,we’regoingtofinishtheendsoftheties,stitchitalldown,andwe’redone!So,justabitmoretogo…


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Sewing the Hakama Tofinishtheendsoftheties(sotheylookprettyanddon’tfrayallovertheplacewhileyou’rewearingthehakama)isaneasymatteratthispoint.

Simplyfoldintherawendsoftheties,andtrimthecornerslikepictured,sothatnoneofthebulkpokesoutthebottomwhenwesewthisalltogether.And,usetheirontopressthoseedgesdown(you’regettingtheideaofhowimportantironingis,aren’tyou?)intoacrispseam.

Irealizethatthesepicturesarealittlehardtosee,soIhaveoutlinedoverthemtohelpyouseetheedgesofthefabricbetter~

Youcanstitchtheedgedownifyouprefer,oryoucanjustleaveit–itshouldn’tcomepoppingoutaftereverythingissewndown.

Tofinishthiswholethingup,you’regoingtowanttofoldthetiesinhalfagain.Allofthoserawedgesshouldbeontheinside,encased.Thisisaneattrickforfinishingjustaboutanythingthatcanbeputonlikethis,tokeeprawedgesfrombeingoutandvisible.

Ifyouarenotcomfortablewithsewingwithoutusingpins,goaheadandpinthisclosed.Then,you’regoingtowanttotopstitchthewholetie,fromoneendtotheother,closed.Ifyounoticethatonelayerofthefabricis“creeping”,orcreatingpuckers,stop,grabyourseamripper,pulltheseamout,andusepinstoholdthefabricinplace.Ifyoujustignoreit,andthinkyoucanfixitwithaniron,it’sgoingtogetworseandworsealongthelengthofthetie.Noironingcanfixthisproblem–again,riptheseamout,

anddoitagain,withpins,or,ifyouwereusingpins,addmorepins.Andmakesure,whenyou’repinningitdown,you’reonaflatsurfaceandnotpullingonelayerortheother.

Giveitonemoregoodpress,forgoodmeasure,andhooray!Youaremostdefinitelydonewithyourhakama!

Putthemon,havesomefun,showeveryonetheawesomethingyoujustmade!

And,postsomepicturesonlineandletmesee,too!(taeliac.deviantart.com)

Tutorial Make Your Own Hakama by Taeliac

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