Turkey: Taurus Mountains, Birecik & the Southern Deltas

Limosa Trip Report Turkey: Taurus Mountains, Birecik & the Southern Deltas

Sat 15th-Tue 25th May 2010

1 • © Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ tel: +44 (0)1692 580623 • fax: +44 (0)1692 580624

email: [email protected] • website: www.limosaholidays.co.uk

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Photos (clockwise from top): The sought-after Radde’s Accentor showed well for our group this year • Rescued by an active conservation programme, Bald Ibises cling to their one remaining Turkish haunt, at Birecik • Ménétries’s Warbler is another of a long list of speciality birds to look for on this exciting tour • There are some notable dragonflies to watch for too, including the lovely Violet Dropwing • An exciting new addition to southern Turkey’s already impressive bird list, the Iraq Babbler was first recorded here as recently as 2006 © Mike Crewe • The male Black-headed Bunting is surely one of the eastern Mediterranean’s most exotic breeding birds • all photos © Peter Kennerley, except where otherwise shown.

report compiled by tour leader: Peter Kennerley

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Trip Report • Turkey, 14-24 May 2010

2 • © Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk

Trip Diary Tour Leaders: Peter Kennerley with Tony & Sue Crowther, Alex Morris & Jenny Straker, Paul & Sue Murfitt, John & Nadine Shearman and Jeffery & Jean Wheatley

Limited to a maximum of ten participants, this was another fabulous trip to Southern Turkey, with almost all the key birds of this interesting region seen – and seen well! We experienced a diverse range of habitats in this huge country, where Europe and Asia meet. The two deltas adjacent to the Mediterranean were followed by the drier, open country at Birecik and along the Euphrates, and the spectacular mountain scenery of the Taurus range at Demirkazik. Some species reach their furthest eastward range extension here but it was those specialities at the westward edge of their range that we were rather more interested in. We identified 194 bird species in all, which was evidence of the richness and variety of the sites visited along our route and, in addition to the birds, also saw a very good selection of other wildlife especially butterflies and dragonflies.

The Cukurova Delta provided us with the back end of migration and, though an early season here seemed to have moved most of the shorebirds on, we still enjoyed a good spread of migrant waders, as well as picking up some local gems such as White-throated Kingfisher, Rufous Scrub Robin and our first White-spectacled Bulbuls. Moving east, we passed through an area rich in good birds, adding Cinereous and Cretzschmar’s Buntings, Upcher’s Warbler, White-throated Robin and Eastern Rock Nuthatch to our tally. Around Birecik, we birded arid steppe country and enjoyed a wealth of good larks, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia, Ménétries’s Warbler, and Birecik’s real star birds – Northern Bald Ibis, Pallid Scops Owl and the recently-discovered Iraq Babbler (now with it’s local name of ‘Baghdad Bird’!).

There could be no greater contrast to Birecik than at our next accommodation as we took the pre-dawn tractor ride up towards the snow-capped mountains to enjoy an amazing cast of spectacular birds, headed up by Caspian Snowcocks and supported by close encounters with Radde’s and Alpine Accentors, Rock Thrush, Black Redstart, Snowfinches, Shore Larks and wonderful Red-fronted Serins, while the lower slopes held Chukar and both Isabelline and Finsch’s Wheatears. A day at Nigde was boosted by wonderful views of Crimson-winged Finches, a couple of Citrine Wagtails and a pair of White-headed Ducks.

Finishing more or less as we had started, at coastal wetlands, we rounded off the trip at the Goksu Delta, adding a Black Francolin and skulking Moustached Warblers to our final total of great birds. We also found time to venture into the local hills to cap it all off with Olive-tree and Rüppell’s Warblers, Krüper’s Nuthatch, and some superb Masked Shrikes. Our hotel here was excellent, and enhanced by the Audouin’s Gulls and Green Turtle in the waters right outside our hotel which were entirely unexpected.

Throughout it all, a wonderful array of butterflies, dragonflies, and superb flowers brightened each walk. While it’s fair to say that Turkey has some way to go before its smaller hotels reach standards we may be used to in the west, wherever we went we were assured of smiling faces and people prepared to do their best for us. We enjoyed some great picnic lunches in delightful settings, together with the occasional restaurant lunch as a change. Overall, the weather was pretty good apart from a bit of wind and rain in the mountains, and the temperatures were cooler than usual, making it particularly pleasant this year.

Day 1 Much of the day was taken up by travel as we flew to Adana from Heathrow, via Istanbul. But after reaching our hotel just 10 minutes from the airport we did manage a last hour birding along the Seyhan River between the Sabanci Merkez Camii Mosque and the Taskopru Bridge – built during the reign of the emperor Hadrian (of wall fame), and reputed to be the oldest bridge still in use though rebuilt numerous times since. The riverside bushes here held at least three Barred Warblers and a similar number of Eastern Olivaceous, while by the river a couple of Little Bitterns lurked. Overhead, the Common Swifts were joined by a couple of Pallids, and five or more Red-rumped Swallows circled the Hilton Hotel. Day 2 The whole day was spent in the Cukurova Delta, a large expanse of wetlands and cultivation to the south of Adana. Our first stop at a tree-lined watercourse produced the expected Penduline Tits, plus a Red-rumped Swallow and our first White-throated Kingfishers. As we continued south towards the sleepy village of Tuzla we stopped to enjoy Serins, Little Bitterns, a couple of migrating Honey Buzzards, Great Reed Warblers and



many more White-throated Kingfishers. After passing through Tuzla we entered a region of lakes and sand flats were gulls, terns and waders predominated. We slowly made our way to the coast, scanning through the flocks of breeding plumaged Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers and Ruff. On the lake several Slender-billed Gulls loafed, while a distant sandbank held Caspian, Gull-billed and Sandwich Terns, together with more Slender-billed Gulls. We enjoyed the first of many picnic lunches – tuna, cheese, tomatoes and olives with fresh bread – by the coast in the shelter of a small grove of trees, where a migrant Redstart sought shelter and several Rufous Scrub Robins held territories. After lunch we drove the bus out across the sand flats to reach some of the more distant parts of the lake. Here we saw a couple of Collared Pratincoles fly by, giving their strange, guttural unwader-like calls, but there was no sign of the breeding colony we found last year. Waders were here in abundance, with Black-winged Stilts and Kentish Plovers breeding, and joined by the likes of Avocets, Curlews (of the long-billed eastern form orientalis), together with Little Stints, Curlew and Wood Sandpipers, and Grey and Ringed Plovers. All too soon it was time to return to Adana, but we had savoured a great introduction to our Turkey adventure. Day 3 With a long drive ahead of us we took an early breakfast, then headed east on the expressway towards Birecik. Just before Nurdagi we descended into the Rift Valley, which reaches its northern limit here, and as we took a short break here, eight distant Black Storks were found in a thermal. Our next destination was Durnalik, a small village in the hills to the west of Gaziantep, where a combination of orchards, scrub-covered valleys and streams come together to provide a wonderfully diverse bird community. Unavoidably, we always make this stop in the heat of the day, and we always enjoy some great birds – yet perhaps an early morning visit would be even better? During the next few hours we enjoyed great looks at many birds typical of this part of Turkey including Long-legged Buzzards, Syrian Woodpecker, a family party of Sombre Tits, Eastern Olivaceous and Upcher’s Warblers, many Lesser Whitethroats, a couple of Eastern Orphean Warblers, both Eastern Rock and Western Rock Nuthatches, several male White-throated Robins and a pair of Rufous Scrub Robins, brief views of a pair of Desert Finches, and several each of Cinereous, Cretzschmar’s and Black-headed Buntings! As we ate lunch we were surrounded by the local class of 2010 who were fascinated by our strange behaviour. This encouraged a contingent to visit the school which led to tea with the village elder, a treat the birding contingent unfortunately missed out on. Well, perhaps next year! A visit to the upper slopes, now accessible by bus provided our first Woodchat Shrike, several Rock Sparrows and with them a single Pale Rock Sparrow – albeit briefly - plus a pair of Black-eared Wheatears and a couple of Eastern Rock Nuthatches. But it seems the Kurdish (Red-tailed) Wheatears really have gone from this part of Turkey. The drive to Birecik is only 90 minutes from here, so we stayed at Durnalik until late afternoon and reached Birecik as the sun was setting. Day 4 Before breakfast some went for a stroll along the bank of the Euphrates (known as the Firat in these parts) where there is a thriving heronry, with Black-crowned Night Herons predominating, but supported by good numbers of Cattle and Little Egrets, Pygmy Cormorants and the occasional Squacco Heron. Under the road bridge we watched an active colony of several hundred pairs of House Martins. Unfortunately, much of the scrub has been cleared from the riverbank, and with it the Ménétries’s Warblers which formerly occurred here. Also, the hydro-electric scheme just upriver from Birecik is playing havoc with water levels. When we arrived the previous evening the river was flowing rapidly, this morning it was a lake, at least a foot lower than the previous evening, and we watched debris slowly floating upriver! Three hours later and it was a flowing torrent again. This change must play havoc with nesting waterbirds whose nests will get washed away. Our first stop was the famous Bald Ibis colony, which continues to thrive under strictly controlled conditions. This was followed by a scramble along the adjacent wadi, where we enjoyed a couple of Ménétries’s Warblers; a roosting Long-eared Owl slept through the racket of a singing Dead Sea Sparrow, and several Rollers and Kestrels patrolled the upper canyon. Dragonflies were very much in evidence here today with Lesser Emperor, Small Skimmer, Violet Dropwing and Broad Scarlet all being particularly active. We even found a large land crab as it scurried beneath a rock. But of the bird we had hoped to find, See See Partridge, there was no sign. This is the second year that we have failed to find it here and it seems that disturbance has finally driven it away from the formerly favoured lower reaches of the wadi. It certainly still persists further into the wadi but time and distance prevent us from reaching this area.



On the return into Birecik we stopped to watch a dozen Little Swifts attending nests in their breeding colony, accompanied by a single Alpine Swift, and a couple of Black-eared Wheatears flitted amongst the rocks. Next stop was the famous ‘owl café’, home to the (only?) Pallid Scops Owls in Turkey. Well, perhaps an exaggeration, but even so, this remains the single best site on the planet to see this elusive owl. And despite there being only a few trees to search, finding one never becomes any easier! The café owner no longer keeps tabs on them, but suggested we check three particular trees; even so there was no sign of the elusive Strigiform, although a Syrian Woodpecker showed well. After more than an hour of neck breaking searching we admitting defeat and opted to return after sunset when they become active and easier to see... Following lunch in a nearby restaurant we visited the agricultural centre to the south of town, but the strong wind made viewing difficult. We eventually caught up with several Dead Sea Sparrows, a couple of Tree Sparrows and some glimpsed an elusive Golden Oriole. But the lure of Iraq Babblers was too strong and very soon we went to look for them at the site we had watched them during the previous three tours. Alas, the water levels were too high to reach last year’s site, and despite searching for 90 minutes we drew a blank. But we did enjoy great looks at out first Pied Kingfisher hovering and diving, several Bee-eaters hawking insects over the river, and both Cattle Egrets and Squacco Herons fishing in the shallows. As we searched we received a phone call from the café owner, letting us know he had found the owl. Optimistic that we would see it, but cautious whether it would be the right species (Long-eared and Eurasian Scops also occur here), we returned with great expectations but were met by scene of mass confusion. Was there an owl? Maybe. Where is it, not sure? Then another chap approached and offered to show it to us – for a fee, at which the café owner suddenly produced the bird – in the very tree he had told us to search several hours earlier! Thankfully it was the Pallid Scops and not its commoner cousin, and we soaked up views of this diminutive owl which was completely oblivious to us. Not to be outdone, the other chap took us to see his owl, again a wonderful Pallid Scops but a couple of hundred metres from the café so perhaps a different pair? With tips duly paid, we bid farewell to the owl and its ‘owner’ until next year. Day 5 We began the day with another rather chilly walk along the Euphrates, where a Peregrine flew overhead carrying breakfast. A distant shingle island held 36 immature gulls, all first-winter except for a third summer bird which was clearly Armenian Gull. Following breakfast we set off for Halfeti, pausing in the Pistachio orchards just outside town to collect our first Chestnut-winged Petronia (or Yellow-throated Sparrow or any other permutation of these words you care to choose), together with a Syrian Woodpecker and Ménétries’s Warbler. Next stop was at an area of steppe grassland, which sadly had been ploughed and planted since our visit here last year. Calandra Larks, which favour cultivated land, were here in abundance. But we struggled to find Bimaculated which favours the more pristine steppe grasslands, although in the end we did enjoy acceptable views of a singing male, complete with white tipped tail which was held completely fanned while singing. These were accompanied by several Short-toed Larks and nearby, a couple of Short-toed Eagles hunted and a Lesser Grey Shrike perched on a roadside wire. As we descended into Halfeti, another roadside stop produced a family party of Eastern Rock Nuthatches. This being a National holiday the town was thronged with huge numbers of day-trippers, presumably from nearby Birecik, and quite different to the peaceful, sleepy village we have visited in previous years – note to diary: remember to avoid 19th May in future! Fortunately we found a quiet taverna whose proprietor kindly allowed us to prepare our picnic lunch at his tables, and we repaid the favour by ordering drinks, while the shopping contingent reduced the Lira content of their wallets. On the return to Birecik we stopped to watch a male Woodchat by the roadside, but the highlight was the wonderfully pallid Little Owl which Tony spotted by the roadside. These desert dwelling Little Owls (of the race lilith) are also unstreaked below and quite different to the darker and browner Little Owls of more temperate climes; some treat them as a distinct species. One to bank at a future date. Nearby, several Chestnut-winged Petronias flicked on the rockface. With time to spare we headed south, parallel to the Euphrates, passing through some villages that had probably seen little change since Biblical times. The logic behind our thinking being that if Iraq Babblers had reached Birecik, they must have done so by followed the river north from Iraq and Syria, and so there should be some towards the border with Syria. This sound logic paid off handsomely as we pulled into the first patch of likely looking habitat. By pure chance, we had parked the bus within 10 feet of an Iraq Babbler’s nest, and an adult gave superb views as it carried nesting material into its unseen nest. Brilliant! With that we called it a day and returned to Birecik. Day 6 This was very much a travel day but we still managed to squeeze in a bit of birding. Those who took the morning walk by the Euphrates were treated to more of the same although three Mallard were new and



Ferruginous Ducks had increased to four. After breakfast we bid farewell to Birecik and made a return visit to the slopes above Durnalik in search of Pale Rock Sparrow, Desert Finch and Kurdish Wheatear. Unfortunately we drew a blank with all three, but we did enjoy yet more White-throated Robins, a family party of Sombre Tits, a couple of Western Rock Nuthatches, a nice male Woodchat Shrike, at least three Upcher’s Warblers, a pair of ‘eastern’ Black-eared Wheatears and several Black-headed Buntings. Much of the remainder of the day was taken up with the long drive to Camardi, interspersed with occasional rests along the way, with highlights that included a group of probable Lesser Kestrels east of Adana, and a Krüper’s Nuthatch above Pozanti. As we approached Camardi we were slightly concerned by the increasing wind, and dark clouds enveloping the tops, the result of a passing cold front. We arrived at our Pansiyon near Cukurbag with time for an evening stroll before dinner, although low cloud obscured the magnificent view. Day 7 It was the visit to the mountains which almost everyone had been looking forward to. Our delightful Pansiyon set on a hillside with breathtaking views of mighty Demirkazik, rising to 3756m, is without question one of the most beautiful locations we stay at on any Limosa tour, anywhere. We had set aside three nights to savour its beauty and birds, and also as a contingency if the weather proved inclement. Although we were a bit concerned how we would fare with the weather, Hassan, our most genial of hosts, was optimistic we would be able to reach our destination. At 03.30, the wind had dropped and stars were out, and everyone was up for tea/coffee and biscuits. There followed a 90-minute ride in a trailer, complete with padded seating, pulled by Hassan’s sturdy tractor. Even so, at one point the going became a bit too tough and some of us had to walk a short section. By 05.30 we reached our final destination, the water troughs below the towering crags of mighty Demirkazik, which extended almost a kilometre above us. Almost immediately we heard the whistling calls of Caspian Snowcocks, and within minutes Hassan’s amazing eyesight had located two birds walking across a distant hillside. Everyone managed good looks at them through the ‘scope as they walked quite quickly up a scree slope. Within 10 minutes they had walked out of view. Now we could start to pay more attention to the many birds that were beginning to appear all around us... and we realised just how cold it was! Thankfully we all had plenty of clothing although poor Ahmet was clearly suffering – he had become uncharacteristically silent! Over the next five hours we enjoyed some of the best birding on the tour. Radde’s Accentors can be tricky to find but this year we enjoyed wonderful views of at least six birds which chased and flitted from bush to bush. Likewise, its large cousin, the Alpine Accentor, often even harder to find, presented no problems this year and we watched two pairs pursuing each other across the scree slopes and around the rocky bluffs. Both species of chough showed well, although many more were too distant to be sure of a specific identification. A couple of gorgeous male Rock Thrushes and a handful of Black Redstarts sang from the crags, where white-winged Snowfinches flitted and occasionally came down to the troughs. On the grassy slopes dapper Shore Larks, complete with horns, fed inconspicuously, looking very different to their drab counterparts on an English east coast beach in winter. Eventually the sun hit the slopes and we began to warm up. So to did the insects and we were soon being buzzed by a small party of Crag Martins, which gave super views. One of the morning’s highlights was a cracking Red-fronted Serin which fed quietly among the rocks and bushes, but after a bit of a struggle eventually gave itself up. But most frustrating was the Crimson-winged Finch which flew over a couple of times, perched briefly on the rockface but refused to give itself up to the masses and was soon gone. And not to be outdone, another Snowcock appeared, this time much closer and gave prolonged views. After five hours we called it a day (well, a mid morning) and began the slow return, this time being able to appreciate some of the amazing scenery we had missed on the ride up. On the lower slopes we stopped to watch a singing Ortolan Bunting, a couple of dapper male Finsch’s Wheatears and a small covey of Chukars. By the time we reached the Pansiyon it was time for lunch, and we savoured one of the finest mornings’ birding possible in the Western Palearctic. After a well-earned rest, we spent a couple of hours in the hills above Camardi. Best here were undoubtedly the three Bimaculated Larks, one of which sang non-stop for almost half an hour before plunging earthward. But at least he landed not too far away and we soon enjoyed super views of this attractive species. Other highlights included three Wood Sandpipers feeding on a roadside pool, several Isabelline Wheatears and Shore Larks, and Long-legged Buzzards which floated overhead in search of a Souslik dinner, while Black-headed and Corn Buntings sang from roadside bushes. As dusk fell we again heard the Scops Owl ‘pooping’ from nearby trees.



Day 8 We began the day with a pre-breakfast stroll along the road towards Cukurbag. Although initially quiet, we slowly began to pick off some of the more interesting breeding birds and after 90 minutes we had amassed a surprisingly good bird list: Hobby, Syrian Woodpecker, Wryneck, Red-backed Shrike, Golden Oriole, a singing Barred Warbler, Blue Tit (a bit scarce in these parts), Common and Lesser Whitethroats, as well as hearing Nightingale and Cetti’s Warbler. Best of all, however, were several parties of Rosy Starlings which whooshed down the valley, their wings making a most amazing sound. In all, we probably saw in the region of 160 birds in five parties, which really pleased Tony as this was a bird he had been particularly keen to see. With low cloud shrouding the high tops and curtains of rain enveloping the mountain, we opted to forego our planned visit to the Emli Valley and instead made a protracted visit to Nigde, where we hoped the weather gods would be kinder to us. This proved to be a sound strategy, and we were soon watching Grey Wagtails and a Dipper along the roadside stream, and three Ortolan Buntings singing from roadside scrub. A second stop fortuitously put us alongside a small breeding colony of Crimson-winged Finches. Now there were no problems getting to grips with this enigmatic finch and everyone was soon able to appreciated these subtle, and not-so subtle, but undoubtedly beautiful finches at just a few metres. With so many great birds to enjoy, the journey to Nigde took much longer than expected, and was delayed further by a stop at a filling station with undoubtedly the finest loos in Turkey – even the seat covers rotated when you pressed the lever! Needless to say there were numerous requests for a return visit later in the day – which were granted. Although the lake at Nigde is maintained by a small dam, it supports a wealth of waterbirds that are typical of the steppe lakes of Asia, making it an essential destination on our tour. We were soon enjoying the spectacle of hundreds of Greater Flamingos, many upending to feed in the deeper water. Amongst the ducks which included Garganey, Teal, Shoveler and Ruddy Shelduck, we were very pleased to eventually locate a drake, and later a female White-headed Duck. A couple of Black-necked Grebes bobbed about, albeit in the distance, while closer to the shoreline, a single Whiskered Tern patrolled, and waders included flocks of Ruff, Little Stints and Wood Sandpipers, plus Ringed and Little Ringed Plovers and four Curlew Sandpipers. Best of all though were a pair of Citrine Wagtails, almost certainly breeding in the same location as last year. Eventually we had to tear ourselves away and went for lunch in the rather grand surroundings of the University Cultural Dining Club. But when we emerged an hour later the weather had taken a turn for the worse, with occasional rain and a howling gale. The rain abated but the wind didn’t. We checked a few likely spots by the lake but the wind made viewing difficult, although the flamingos put on an amazing display as they flew low across the lake to seek a sheltered corner. Eventually we set off for Camardi, en route making yet another stop at those amazing loos. Undoubtedly the most memorable event of the return was the encounter between our bus and two rather large Anatolian Mastiffs, complete with vicious collars adorned 3-inch long spikes – just in case a Wolf attacks them. These brutes can reach speeds of 30 mph (we clocked them as they attacked the bus!) and it would not be fun to be caught alone in the open with them around. Day 9 Another pre-breakfast stroll along the road to Cukurbag gave nice views of a couple of Barred Warblers and at least five Red-backed Shrikes, but there was no sign of yesterday’s Rosy Starlings. After breakfast we bid farewell to Hassan and his delightful Pansiyon, and headed for the Emli Valley where the sun was already breaking through. Starting in the lower valley we soon found our first Rock Bunting, one of at least six we would see that morning. A couple of Chukars sat up, called loudly and showed well, as did Western Rock Nuthatches, and we saw their amazing nest – a mud fortress built around a hole in the rock face, with just a small entrance hole for them. Another Red-fronted Serin was glimpsed by some, yet more Red-backed Shrikes lined the valley and overhead, an adult Golden Eagle floated past. The upper valley quickly found us watching Coal Tits among the junipers, black-capped Jays that looked so different to those we see in Europe, and a Persian Squirrel which played hide-and-seek as it dashed and darted from branch to branch. Unfortunately, the cool temperatures and overcast conditions reduced butterfly activity to almost zero, which was disappointing as this had been one of the highlights of previous visits to the Emli Valley. All too soon we had to leave this delightful spot and begin our descent to the coast. We stopped for a picnic lunch, where a bride in full regalia paused to use the local loos – which were also home to nesting Great Tits. She certainly needed the two helpers to keep her dress off the floor. As we headed west the skies darkened and the wind increased, and very soon the rain set in, but had cleared by the time we reached our hotel in the later afternoon. This hotel, used by Limosa for the first time this year, proved to be very popular with our group. Although a 30-minute drive from the Goksu Delta, it was a vast improvement over the hotel in Tasucu where we stayed last year, and was voted a resounding success. The strong winds were still blowing and had displaced Cory’s Shearwaters, several of which were seen by those who braved a pre-dinner seawatch. We later learned



that several hundred were seen off the tip of the delta, plus an unexpected Brown Booby. The seawatchers also found a couple of juvenile Shags of the distinctive Mediterranean race desmarestii. Nearby, a pair of Black-eared Wheatears fed their young in a nest in the rock face behind the bar. Day 10 We started our last full day with a pre-breakfast seawatch from the hotel’s specially designed seawatching platform! Unfortunately the Cory’s had stopped moving and the Shags had vanished, but we did see a couple of Audouin’s Gulls as they flew past, albeit a bit distant, and flocks of hundreds of Common Swifts together with a single Alpine. We spent the morning circumnavigating the Goksu Delta. First stop was for a particularly obliging Black Francolin, followed by a visit to the viewing platform where eight Whiskered Terns floated and dipped in the distance, Bearded Reedlings showed to perfection, a cute family party of Graceful Prinias almost gave it star billing. But apart from a handful of Red-crested Pochards and Ruddy Shelduck, waterfowl were unusually absent, as were waders – perhaps due to the abnormally high water levels this year? But we did enjoy a party of Spoonbills uncharacteristically active - feeding close to the roadside and showing well. Several short stops also brought us Curlew Sandpipers, Kentish Plovers and a sprinkling of terns. After an al fresco lunch in Silifke we spent our final afternoon in the hills above the town. Despite being the ‘wrong time of day’, the woods and scrub were buzzing with birds. Great Tits predominated but with a bit of effort we soon found several singing Cretzschmar’s Buntings, a dozen or more Krüper’s Nuthatches, a family party of Long-tailed Tits of the distinctive form tephronotus, and two very nice male Masked Shrikes. Rüppell’s Warblers put up a bit of a struggle but in the end we had nice views of a couple of males. Olive-tree Warblers were heard but proved very elusive, so in the end we opted for a back-up site which was a resounding success. As soon as we got off the bus we heard a male singing close by, and with everyone lined up he performed to perfection. A great end to another great day, and for some, the juvenile Shag reappeared in the bay before dinner. Day 11 The final morning seawatch from the hotel came up with three Audouin’s and a single Med. Gull loafing around on the sea, plus a highly endangered Green Turtle wallowing just offshore. Western Rock Nuthatches and two pairs of Black-eared Wheatears showed what a great spot we had chosen – a vast improvement over our previous hotel in Tasucu. Our final excursion to the northern Goksu was surprisingly good. We began with two Ravens in a field – a species we had unexpectedly missed up until now. Moustached Warblers foraged among the reeds close to the water’s edge while Squacco and Purple Herons, and Bearded Reedlings showed well. From the top of a decidedly dodgy looking tower, Paul saw the only Purple Swamphen of the tour, to be followed shortly afterwards by a distant falcon coming in our direction. Thankfully it came closer and stayed around for five minutes, enabling us all to enjoy a pale morph Eleonora’s Falcon - the final new bird of a bird filled tour. And with that it was back to the hotel for a later than usual breakfast, a spot of packing and an uneventful return to Adana airport, where our Turkish adventure began just 10 days ago, but seemed so much longer. We had seen some fantastic birds and wonderful scenery and this is surely a tour we will long look back upon with fond memories. The vote for ‘Bird of the Tour’ placed those stunning Crimson-winged Finches in first place, followed by Caspian Snowcock in second, the flight of the Greater Flamingos at Nigde in third place, White-throated Kingfisher fourth and White-throated Robin in fifth – now I think that’s a first – the robin getting beaten by the kingfisher! My thanks go tour Unal, our fantastic driver, and local guide Ahmet, and to the pleasant and enthusiastic group who made it a real pleasure for me to lead this tour to Turkey. I look forward to doing so again in the near future.

Peter Kennerley



ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS RECORDED (A total of 194 species was recorded by the group)

NOTE: As Turkey lies at an important crossroads for bird biodiversity and speciation, we have commented on the forms seen on this tour where they may be of interest. Caspian Snowcock Tetraogallus caspius After the bumpy tractor ride (in a much improved trailer) to the lower slopes of Demirkazik on 21st, we almost immediately heard a calling bird. Hassan quickly located a couple of distant birds on a slope across the valley. Later, a closer calling male was found on a high bluff above the water trough. Placed second in the ‘Bird of the Tour’ vote. Birds in Turkey are of the nominate form. Chukar Alectoris chukar After three distant birds at Demirkazik on 21st, we found two closer birds during our descent later that morning. On 23rd, two pairs showed well in the Emli Valley. The race occurring in Turkey is A. c. cypriotes Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus A male seen well, and at least three others heard at the Goksu Delta on 24th. The birds in Turkey belong with the nominate form. Quail Coturnix coturnix One calling from a roadside field above Camardi on 21st. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea At least 20 adults, plus many fluffy chicks, on the lake at Nigde on 22nd, and 15+ plus a pair with fluffy chicks at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Three males on the Euphrates at Birecik on 20th, and a female at Nigde on 22nd. Surprisingly scarce at the Goksu Delta this year, with two there on 24th and four on 25th. Shoveler Anas clypeata A pair in the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and another pair at Nigde on 22nd. Garganey Anas querquedula Three males at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, a pair at Nigde on 22nd, and a pair at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Common Teal Anas crecca A male at Nigde on 22nd. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina At least six on the Euphrates at Birecik on 18th and again on 20th, followed by six at Nidge on 22nd, and 20+ at the Goksu Delta on 24th with smaller numbers there the following day. Females with chicks noted at the Goksu Delta. Common Pochard Aythya ferina Common at Nigde on 22nd, with 80+ birds here. Not seen elsewhere. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca A male with a damaged wing on the Euphrates at Birecik on 18th to 20th, and a further three there on 20th. White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala A pair on the lake at Nigde on 22nd. Cory’s Shearwater Calonectris diomedea During a day of strong southwesterly winds, 8+ seen from the hotel near Silifke in the evening on 23rd, plus a further five in calm conditions the following evening.



Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Small numbers at wetland sites at Adana, Birecik and Nigde. Birds in Turkey belong with the nominate form. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus At least ten on the Euphrates south of Birecik on 19th, two on the lake at Nigde on 22nd, and two at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Six at Nigde on 22nd were down on the 10+ seen here last year and 50+ here in 2008. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus At least 250 at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, followed by 700+ at Nigde on 22nd, which included many immatures, and four at the Goksu Delta on 24th. The flock flying low over the lake in the strong wind at Nigde made a particularly spectacular sight, and gave this third place in the Bird of the Tour vote. White Stork Ciconia ciconia Widespread in small numbers although most were probably breeding birds, and no migrating flocks were encountered this year. Black Stork Ciconia nigra A group of eight in a thermal in the Rift Valley at Nurdagi were presumably migrants. Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita Surviving and thriving it seems, but only around Birecik. Several chicks still being attended by adults in their individual bijou residences on the cliff face at Birecik. Another appeared to be attempting to nest in the wadi and also on cliffs just on the outskirts of town. Many also seen flying up and down the river. Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia A party of seven at the Goksu Delta on 24th was the only sighting. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus Surprisingly easy to see on this tour. Two along the river in Adana on 15th followed by a male at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Thereafter, a bird at Birecik on 18th and two at Nidge on 22nd. Most were males. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Four flew over us in the evening along the river in Adana on 15th, followed by a further four in flight at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Numerous at Birecik where at least 60 birds were present and breeding on the island in the Euphrates near our hotel on 18th to 20th. Not seen elsewhere. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Three at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and up to six at Birecik, including breeding birds on the island in the Euphrates near our hotel. A further three noted at Nigde on 22nd and three at the Goksu Delta on 25th. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Surprisingly rare in the eastern Mediterranean, so it was satisfying to see at least ten breeding on the island in the Euphrates near our hotel. Not noted elsewhere. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea One at Birecik on 18th followed by five at Nigde on 22nd, and just two at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Quite scarce this year. One at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and one at Nigde on 22nd were the only sightings away from the Goksu Delta. Here we found 10+ on 24th and four on 25th. Great Egret Ardea alba Two at the Goksu Delta on 24th.



Little Egret Egretta garzetta Small numbers seen on eight dates at widespread localities throughout the lowlands. Most numerous at the Goksu Delta with 10+ there on 24th, but also seen at the Cukurova Delta, Nigde and the Birecik region as well as from the bus while travelling. Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus This species has expanded its range enormously in the last 20 years, both westward into Europe and southward into the Middle East. Breeds in the egret colony on the island in the Euphrates at Birecik where up to 30 birds seen daily, many carrying nesting material. Elsewhere, just one in flight at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis Two immatures swimming close inshore on the sea by our hotel on 23rd and one there on 24th. Birds breeding in the Mediterranean are of the distinctive race P. a. desmarestii. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni A group of four hunting by the expressway on 17th, en-route to Nurdagi from Adana. A further group of six kestrels hunting over a hillside, almost certainly this species but a bit too distant to be certain, seen from a service area c. 60 km east of Adana on 20th. Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Small numbers noted on eight dates throughout the tour and from widespread localities from sea level to Demirkazik. Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae One pale morph showed well in flight for several minutes in flight over the Goksu Delta on 25th. Hobby Falco subbuteo One near our Pansiyon at Cukurbag on 22nd. Peregrine Falco peregrinus One carrying prey over the Euphrates at Birecik in the early morning on 19th. Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus Two migrants showed well at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Five over the hills on the opposite side of the lake at Halfeti on 19th. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus A pair on 17th just beyond Nurdagi en-route to Durnalik, and at least four different individuals between Birecik and Halfeti on 19th. Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Just three at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, but more numerous at the Goksu Delta, with 12+ on 24th and four on 25th. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Noted throughout on seven dates between 17h and 23rd. Most numerous between Camardi and Nigde with 10+ seen on 22nd. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos An adult over the Emli Valley on 23rd was the only sighting. Birds in Turkey belong to the race A. c. homeyeri. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Just one at the Goksu Delta on 25th, seen by Paul from the top of the increasingly rickety birding tower, which no others chose to climb. As last year, none were seen during our circumnavigation of the delta. Birds breeding in Turkey belong to the race P. p. caspius, which is sometimes treated as a distinct species, Grey-headed Swamphen.



Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Small numbers around wetlands at Birecik and both deltas. Coot Fulica atra Common in most areas of suitable habitat at Birecik, Nigde and both deltas. High counts included 100+ on the Euphrates at Birecik on 19th, 100+ at Nigde on 22nd, and 60+ at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common on the Cukurova Delta with 20+ noted on 16th, and at Nigde with 15+ on 22nd. Missed at the Goksu Delta. Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Two at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus At least 15 at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, which was the best site. Elsewhere, four at Nigde on 22nd, six at the Goksu Delta on 24th and four there the following day. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Two at the Cukurova Delta on 16th was the only sighting. Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula At least eight at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, one at Nigde on 22nd and one heard at the Goksu Delta on 24th. These birds would be of the long-distance migratory form C. h. tundrae which breeds in the high Arctic breeding race has slightly darker upperparts than its European breeding counterpart. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius One at Nigde on 22nd was the only sighting. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Common on the Cukurova Delta with 60+ there on 16th, and 10+ at the Goksu Delta on 14th. Curlew Numenius arquata Two of the eastern race orientalis at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. In addition to the proportionately longer bill, this race also shows barred underwing-coverts, so the underwing appears darker than that of nominate birds in Europe. Redshank Tringa totanus Singles at the Cukurova Delta on 16th and at Nidge on 22nd. Greenshank Tringa nebularia One at the Cukurova Delta on 16th and another heard at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Following one at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, three were found on a small roadside pool in the hills above Camardi on 21st, then a further six were at Nigde the next day. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Singles at Birecik on 18th and 19th. Turnstone Arenaria interpres Two at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Little Stint Calidris minuta Good numbers seen this year, with 120+ at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and 12 were seen on the lake at Nigde on 22nd. Not seen at the Goksu Delta where water levels were too high. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea In the region of 20+ birds at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, four on the lake at Nigde on 22nd, and two at the Goksu Delta on 24th.



Dunlin Calidris alpina Three at the Cukurova Delta on 16th was the only sighting. Ruff Philomachus pugnax At least 15 at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, 30+ at Nigde on 22nd and four at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Last year’s breeding colony at the Cukurova Delta was deserted this year, but we still managed to find four birds here, albeit in flight and a bit distant. Also, one flew past us at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Audouin’s Gull Ichthyaetus audouinii An adult and first-summer flew past the hotel near Silifke before breakfast on 24th, and one first-summer and two second-summer birds there on 25th. Mediterranean Gull Ichthyaetus melanocephalus At least 20 of various ages at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and a first-summer on the sea from the hotel at Silifke on 25th. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis At least 20 immature birds in the Cukurova Delta on 16th, up to 15 from the hotel near Silifke on 24th and 25th, and 12+ at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Armenian Gull Larus armenicus A group of 36 immature gulls on a rather distant shingle bank in the Euphrates at Birecik on 19th, and 12 there the following day. One of these was clearly a third summer Armenian. The identity of the remainder was less certain but the all shared a similar structure and size with the older bird, and were probably all this species. Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Four at the Cukurova Delta on 16th and two at Nigde on 22nd. Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei A good year for this attractive species. At least 40 at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, four adults at Nigde on 22nd, and six at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Little Tern Sternula albifrons Common at the Cukurova Delta on 16th with 60+ there. At the Goksu Delta, at least 20 birds seen. No sightings elsewhere. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Three at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Three at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida A first-summer at Nigde on 22nd, and eight rather distant birds at the Goksu Delta on 23rd. Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis At least 30 roosting on an island at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and two at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Common Tern Sterna hirundo Eight at Cukurova Delta on 16th, one at Nigde on 22nd and c. 10 at the Goksu Delta on 24th. Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis Two flew over the wadi at Birecik on 18th. Rock Dove Columba livia Noted daily throughout the tour. Birds throughout seemed surprisingly pure, even in cities, while those around Birecik and Demirkazik gave us ample opportunity to enjoy ‘real’ Rock Doves! There is a cline of birds across Turkey, from smaller and darker (livia) in the NW to larger and paler (gaddi) in the SE but boundaries within



Turkey are not possible to define. It is thought that birds in the Birecik region may well be of the Middle East form, C. l. palaestinae. Woodpigeon Columba palumbus Two at Birecik on 18th and one en-route to Halfeti on 19th. Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur Small numbers seen or heard at the Cukurova and Goksu Deltas, and the Birecik region. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Common and widespread in cities, towns and larger villages throughout the region and recorded daily. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Local but small numbers seen regularly around Adana, Birecik and along the coast near Silifke. Birds occurring in Turkey belong to the race S. s. phoenicophila. Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Occasionally seen or heard around Cukurbag, Nigde, and the Emli Valley. Also one heard in the hills above Silifke on 24th. Pallid Scops Owl Otus brucei The regular roosting bird in Birecik is becoming ever more difficult to find. After much searching the café owner took pity on us and told us which trees to check – and we still failed to find it, so he pointed it out to us. Phew! Then we were shown a second bird at the other side of the park – perhaps from a different pair. We then enjoyed great looks at both birds at the only known regular site for this elusive species. Eurasian Scops Owl also occurs here but we saw these birds well and they were the real thing. The race occurring in Turkey is O. b. obsoletus. Eurasian Scops Owl Otus scops One or two were heard regularly after dark at Cukurbag but not seen this year. Little Owl Athene noctua An extremely pale, sandy-brown bird with very little streaking on the underparts was sitting by the roadside south of Halfeti on 19th. Probably the race A. n. lilith. It has been suggested that these pale, desert-dwelling Little Owls represent a different species to the darker birds breeding at temperate latitudes to the north in Europe and Asia. Watch this space... Long-eared Owl Asio otus A roosting bird in the trees at the entrance to the wadi at Birecik on 18th. It was immediately above a crow’s nest and may have been breeding here. Birds in Turkey are of the nominate form, which breeds widely throughout Europe and Asia. European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus Surprisingly, one churring (loudly, but not seen) in the Emli Valley in broad daylight on 23rd. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Surprisingly widespread this year. One at the Little Swift colony in Birecik on 18th, at least five over the Gebere Barrage at Nigde on 22nd during the passage of a cold front, one at the Emli Valley on 23rd and one with the movement of Common Swifts over our hotel at Silifke on 24th. Common Swift Apus apus Widespread and noted daily, often in groups of 100 or more. Most impressive were the 500+ birds which came in off the sea at our hotel at Silifke in the early morning on 24th. Perhaps they drift out to sea at night and return with the dawn? Pallid Swift Apus pallidus Two birds over the river in Adana on 15th, and one over the hotel on 17th. The race likely to occur here would be A. p. brehmorum which breeds on nearby Cyprus.



Little Swift Apus affinis Only seen at Birecik where at least 12 birds were circling over the breeding cliffs just north of the town on 18th. European Roller Coracias garrulus Several noted around Birecik, particularly in the wadi and near the gravel workings on 18th and 19th. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis At least ten along the canal south of Adana on 16th gave great views. Placed fourth in the vote for ‘Bird of the Tour’. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis One at Birecik on 18th was the only sighting. Changing water levels in the river appear to be causing problems for this and many other species dependant on a stable river system. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster Up to 20 daily around Birecik and Halfeti on 18th and 19th. Occasional sightings elsewhere. Hoopoe Upupa epops Three at Birecik on 18th, at least six at Nigde on 22nd, and one plus another heard at the Emli Valley on 23rd. Wryneck Jynx torquilla One heard calling from orchards by the roadside at Cukurbag on 20th. During the pre-breakfast walk there on 22nd, we heard it calling again and some glimpsed it as it flew between trees and briefly sat up. Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus At least three seen briefly at Durnalik on 17th, followed by a couple of birds which showed well in the tea garden at Birecik the following day. One in the Pistachio orchard north of Birecik and another en-route to Halfeti on 19th, and singles at Cukurbag on 22nd and 23rd. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Inexplicably scarce this year, with a male on roadside wires near Durnalik on 17th being the only sighting until we reached the Cukurbag region, where it breeds. Then quite numerous with two males on 20th, single males on 21st and 22nd, followed by four males and a female on 23rd, and three males and a female in the Emli Valley later the same day. Finally, a female at the Goksu delta on 24th. These birds, particularly the females, showed characters associated with the race kobylini. Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor One on wires by the roadside between Birecik and Halfeti on 19th, followed by singles near Cukurbag on 20th and 22nd. Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator A male at Durnalik on 17th followed by two there on 20th, and another male near Halfeti on 19th. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus A superb bird! A female on a roadside fence at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, followed by a couple of males in the Alleppo Pine forest in the hills beyond Silifke on 24th. Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Typically elusive as they had settled into breeding but one or two heard, or occasionally seen at Cukurbag. Jay Garrulus glandarius A distant bird in the Emli Valley on 23rd, one in the housing estate at the Goksu delta on 23rd and two in the hills above Silifke on 24th. These birds, with their distinctive white faces and black caps are the race G. g. anatoliae and form a part of the atricapillus group. Magpie Pica pica Surprisingly rather localised with two by the expressway east of Adana on 17th being the only sighting away from the mountains, where up to ten were seen daily from 20th to 23rd around the Demirkazik area.



Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Common and seen daily around Demirkazik and the Emli Valley in small parties from 20th to 23rd. Large flocks of up to 100 choughs were seen but many were too distant to identify. Tends to occur at lower elevations than Alpine Chough although both occur together on the upper slopes at c. 2,500 m. Birds in Turkey are of the race P. p. docilis. Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus An estimated 10–15 birds in small parties on the higher slopes at Demirkazik on 21st, uttering their wonderful rolling whistles and seen together with Red-billed Chough feeding on the damper grassy slopes. Birds in Turkey are of the race P. g. digitatus. Jackdaw Coloeus monedula Common around Istanbul Airport and smaller numbers seen around Birecik and Adana. All birds are of the eastern form C. m. soemmeringii, though the silver neck bar typical of this form appears to be a variable feature and not always noticeable. Hooded Crow Corvus cornix Common and widespread throughout the tour. Turkish birds are mostly the form C. c. sharpii, but there is a cline towards the paler grey form C. c. pallescens which is found around Birecik and from there into the Middle East and Cyprus. Raven Corvus corax Two in a field at the Goksu delta on 25th was the only sighting. Birds in Turkey are of the race C. c. laurencei. Sombre Tit Poecile lugubris A pair with recently fledged chicks at Durnalik on 17th, followed by a different pair with chicks there on 20th. Birds in Turkey are of the race P. l. anatoliae. Coal Tit Periparus ater At least six in the Emli Valley on 23rd and one in pines north of Silifke on 24th. Great Tit Parus major Widespread in small numbers throughout the tour. Birds in Turkey are of the nominate form. Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus Singles near Cukurbag 20th–22nd. Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus A pair showed well along a willow-lined irrigation canal in the Cukurova Delta not far from Adana on 16th. Sand Martin Riparia riparia Widespread and common in suitable habitat throughout the tour. Particularly abundant around Birecik where many were nesting. Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris At least ten on the upper slopes of Demirkazik on 21st, four en-route from Camardi to Nigde on 22nd, followed by a further six in the hills above Nigde at the Gebere Barrage later the same day, and at least five in the Emli Valley on 23rd. Swallow Hirundo rustica Widespread and common throughout most of the tour and seen daily. It was particularly noticeable around Birecik that several birds were showing rich rufous underparts suggesting an introgression with the form transitiva of the Middle East, which has deep rufous underparts. Several were already out the nest and being fed by their parents in May! House Martin Delichon urbicum Widespread and noted daily throughout the tour in reasonable numbers. Particularly numerous around Birecik where the bridge is home to a large breeding colony, and also 30+ feeding with Crag Martins on the upper slopes Demirkazik on 21st. In both these locations it was interesting to watch birds still using traditional cliff and cave nest sites.



Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica More widespread than last year, with sightings on six dates but absent from the mountains. Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus At least four in the pine forests above Silifke on 24th was the only sighting. In Turkey the breeding birds are of the race A. c. tephronotus, which are drabber than those in Britain, and generally lack the pink tones in the plumage. Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra Widespread in small numbers, with 12+ on steppe grassland between Birecik and Halfeti on 19th, and two at Nigde on 22nd. Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata More localised and scarcer than Calandra Lark but three seen together with its slightly larger relative between Birecik and Halfeti on 19th. Elsewhere, three in the hills behind Camardi on 21st. Seemingly able to sing for hours without landing - one we watched in the hills above Camardi sang for over 25 minutes before plunging to ground like a stone. Remember it appears shorter-tailed and has proportionately longer and more pointed wings than Calandra, and lacks the white trailing edge to the wing, blackish underwing and white sides to the tail. Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla A scattering of birds here and there in suitable open habitats. At least six on the Cukurova Delta on 16th, 12+ between Birecik and Halfeti on 19th, and one in the Goksu delta on 25th. This is a highly variable species, mostly involving upperpart colour and amount of rufous on the crown. In the areas we visited, most birds seem to fall within a cline from artemisiana to woltersi, while those around Birecik blur into a woltersi/hermonensis cline. Shore Lark Eremophila alpestris A fabulous bird and this is a particularly smart form. Fairly common around Demirkazik and the surrounding area, and along the road to Nigde. Seen daily from 21st to 23rd. The extensive black moustache reaches down to join the black breast band, giving birds a very different look to those we see in Britain. Most authorities consider birds breeding in the Demirkazik region to be of the race E. a. penicillata. However, Roselaar described these as a new form E. a. kumerloevei, which differs from penicillata which breeds further to the west by appearing whiter (rather than yellow) about the face and less obviously streaked above. Crested Lark Galerida cristata Common and widespread throughout the tour, and seen daily often in good numbers. A notoriously complex species, with the Goksu/Cukurova Delta birds seem to be meridionalis but anything further east just gets messy! Skylark Alauda arvensis Heard in the hills above Camardi on 21st, followed by at least six birds in song at Nigde on 22nd. Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis Common in the Cukurova and Goksu Deltas, where its distinctive but monotonous song attracts attention. Occasionally heard and seen around Birecik. The adults feeding a line of recently fledged juveniles at the Goksu delta on 24th were particularly appealing. Apparently gets its plumage messed up creeping through the vegetation and rarely lives up to its name! Birds in Turkey are of the race P. g. akyildizi. White-spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos Common in the lowlands, particularly around Adana and in the Cukurova Delta, and also regularly encountered Birecik and in the Goksu delta, at Tasucu, but absent from the Demirkazik region. Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Small numbers heard in song along the Euphrates at Birecik, and in bushes lining the river valley at Cukurbag, and also at the Goksu Delta. However, only glimpsed once by Paul! Birds in Turkey are of the race C. c. orientalis. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus Regularly heard in the Cukurova and Goksu Deltas but few were actually seen, although some did sit out on reed heads and show well. Occasional seen and heard in reeds at the Birecik gravel workings and by the Euphrates to the south of Birecik.



Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon At least two birds showed very well at the Goksu Delta on 25th. Birds of the eastern race A. m. mimica lack the strong rufous wash shown by European birds and are noticeably white below, but still have neat dark caps and obvious dark blue-grey legs. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus One heard by Sue at Cukurbag on 21st. Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus A small scattering at wetlands throughout, and seen well at both deltas and along the Euphrates. The eastern form A. s. fuscus is greyer than the nominate form which breeds in Europe, and also often shows pale tips to the outer tail feathers. With migration probably still under way, we saw a whole range of birds showing a variety of characteristics typical of both forms, and birds breeding in southern Turkey probably intergrade between these two races. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida Widespread and common, even along the river in the centre of Adana. Recorded most days throughout the tour, including bushes and scrub at Cukurbag but absent from higher, open ground around Demirkazik. These eastern birds tend to be slightly paler and short-billed than birds of the form elaeica, which many will be familiar with from Lesvos, and are treated as a separate race I. p. tamariceti by some authorities. Upcher’s Warbler Hippolais languida At least four were seen around Durnalik on 17th, followed by three here on 20th. Elsewhere, just a single near Halfeti on 19th. Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum After a bit of a struggle to locate one of these fine warblers, a singing male showed well in the hills above Silifke on 24th. Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria At least three in bushes by the river in Adana on 15th, followed by a couple of singing males at Cukurbag on 22nd and 23rd, which occasionally indulging in full song flight. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Widespread and seen in most areas visited but absent at Birecik. Singing males were quite common around Durnalik on 17th and the Demirkazik region on 21st to 23rd. This species seems to be poorly studied in Turkey which is a major issue as they fall in a zone between European breeding curruca and althaea from Central Asia which is now recognised as a distinct species – Hume’s Whitethroat S. althaea. Although the song differs slightly from that of European breeders, it is quite distinct from that of Hume’s Whitethroat. Some authorities treat these birds as being the race caucasica. So although Turkish birds are Lessers, they are a bit different to our birds. Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris A pair at Durnalik on 17th was the only sighting. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis Two singing males in the orchards around Cukurbag on 21st to 23rd. These were duller than European birds and were most likely to belong to the race S. c. icterops. Ménétries’s Warbler Sylvia mystacea Only seen in the Birecik region, including the wadi, the road through the pistachio orchard and also to the south of the town. Head colour, tertial colour and pattern, bill base colour and tail were all scrutinised – with a lot of wagging of the latter especially noticeable! Birds in Turkey are of the western race S. m. rubescens which lacks the pink flush to the underparts, and is correctly illustrated in the Collins Bird Guide. Appears to form a superspecies with Sardinian and Cyprus Warblers. Rüppell's Warbler Sylvia rueppelli Nice views of two singing males in the hills above Silifke on 24th.



Iraq Babbler Turdoides altirostris After failing to find it at the usual site we decided to explore to the south along the Euphrates where there is plenty of suitable habitat. This proved to be successful and we found a bird carrying nesting material by the roadside south of Birecik, and enjoyed prolonged, close views before it disappeared into dense vegetation and didn’t reappear. This is the fourth year we have found this species in southern Turkey, which was first recorded here in 2006. Records of this species have come from Syria in recent years and it seems that this species has spread northwards along the Euphrates. And with ample suitable habitat along the Euphrates, more pairs probably remain to be found. Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus Several seen well in the reedbeds at the Goksu Delta on 24th and 25th. These birds are paler, less richly coloured than European birds. This part of Turkey is an intriguing area for this species as, geographically, it is close to Amik Golu, the huge wetland in southern Turkey that was drained some years ago and which was home to the endemic form P. b. kosswigi, which is now believed to be extinct. It is feasible that they moved west? Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Heard at Demirkazik on 21st. These birds fall within the range of the form T. t. seilerni. Dipper Cinclus cinclus One along the roadside stream between Camardi and Nigde on 22nd. The race occurring in Turkey is C. c. caucasicus. Krüper's Nuthatch Sitta krueperi Several nice sightings this year. The first was a male in the hills above Pozanti on 20th, in Alleppo Pines as expected. In the hills above Silifke on 24th we encountered at least tens birds, many of which showed well. Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer A pair at Durnalik on 17th, and a different pair here, on the upper slopes, on 20th. Thereafter, one on cliffs above the water trough at Demirkazik on 21st, one en-route to Nigde from Camardi on 22nd, two or more at the Emli Valley on 23rd, and a pair breeding on the cliffs at our hotel on the coast near Silifke. Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota An amazingly chunky, bouncy and ebullient bird! Two at Durnalik on 17th, followed by four in the gorge above Halfeti on 19th. Birds in Turkey are of the race S. t. dresseri. Rosy Starling Sturnus roseus Only noted at Cukurbag, with five parties totalling in excess of 160 birds flew east along the valley before breakfast 22nd, with brief views of a distant flock of about 40+ after breakfast. (European) Starling Sturnus vulgaris Noted daily from 17th to 23rd, but generally in small numbers, and most numerous around Cukurbag. These birds belong to the race S. v. tauricus which lacks much of the spotting shown by European birds and has a closer resemblance to Spotless Starling. Blackbird Turdus merula Widespread throughout in small numbers although not noted at Birecik. Birds here are of the race T. m. syriacus. (Common) Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos A scattering of singing birds heard at the Cukurova Delta and around Cukurbag. Not seen. White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis One of the reasons to go to Turkey! Fabulous views of at least four males around Durnalik on 17th, and three there on 20th. One male on 17th lacked orange on the underparts, which was replaced with grey! Placed fifth in the vote for Bird of the Tour. Rufous Scrub Robin Cercotrichas galactotes Small numbers at the Cukurova Delta on 16th, and at Durnalik on 17th, and occasionally seen and heard around Birecik. These birds show paler upperparts than Spanish birds and are of the race C. g. syriacus.



Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros At least four singing males at Demirkazik on 21st, a pair between Camardi and Nigde on 22nd and a male in the Emli Valley on 23rd. These birds are of the nominate form, which appears distinctly blacker than our birds but show an orange belly and undertail-coverts. (Common) Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus A female of the nominate form by the coast at Tuzla in the Cukurova Delta on 16th was the only sighting. Stonechat Saxicola rubicola A male on the lower slopes of Demirkazik on 21st was unexpected. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Locally common in the right habitat (round souslik burrows!). The first was on the lower slopes of Demirkazik on 21st, followed by a further six or more in the hills above Camardi later the same day. Very common along the road to Nigde and on steppe grasslands by the lake at the university on 22nd. Finally, two en-route to the Emli Valley on 23rd. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe The commonest wheatear in the Demirkazik area with up to ten daily. All had extremely pale body feathering which contrasted with the black feathering on the wings and mask and were presumably of the race O. o. libanotica. (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica Widespread in small numbers, with more sightings than last year. At least two pairs at Durnalik on 17th and another pair there on 20th. Elsewhere, a pair on the swift cliffs at Birecik and a female by the Euphrates on 18th, two at the expressway services c. 60 km east of Adana while we ate lunch on 20th, a male in the gorge above Camardi on the Nigde road on 22nd and two pairs nesting on the cliffs by our hotel near Silifke – one pair were feeding young in a nest behind the bar. Both dark-throated and pale-throated birds were seen. Birds in Turkey are of the eastern form O. h. melanoleuca. Finsch’s Wheatear Oenanthe finschii Two males on the lower slopes at Demirkazik on 21st. This is a regular stakeout and we enjoyed prolonged views of this stunning wheatear. Another along the Camardi – Nigde road on 22nd. Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis Two males on territory at Demirkazik on 21st and showing very well. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius A male in the gorge above Halfeti on 19th, two males in the Emli Valley on 23rd, and one at our hotel near Silifke on 25th. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Widespread and common, and noted daily throughout the tour. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Small numbers at the Cukurova Delta on 16th. The birds in Turkey are of the race P. h. transcaspius. Dead Sea Sparrow Passer moabiticus These very attractive, diminutive sparrows are becoming less numerous along the Euphrates around Birecik, where it was formerly common in orchards and scrub. A singing male in the small wood at the entrance to the wadi on 18th, followed by a further four at a breeding site to the south of the town later the same day. Birds in Turkey are of the race P. m. mesopotamicus. Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Three at Birecik on 18th, followed by up to six seen regularly around our accommodation at Cukurbag from 20th to 23rd. Pale Rock Sparrow Carpospiza brachydactyla Yet another difficult bird which doesn’t seem to be getting any easier. One seen briefly on the upper slopes above Durnalik on 17th.



Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia Several at Durnalik on 17th, then small numbers near Birecik and Halfeti. Common throughout the Demirkazik region, where it was seen daily from 21st to 23rd. Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Gymnoris xanthocollis A male in the Pistachio orchard at Birecik on 19th was seen well by all, followed by a further six or more near Halfeti later the same day. Birds in Turkey are of the race G. x. transfuga. Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis Common around Demirkazik with some 20+ seen on 21st. The race breeding here is M. n. leucura which is strikingly paler on the mantle than European birds and whiter below. Radde’s Accentor Prunella ocularis Easy this year, with at least six birds singing around the drinking trough area at Demirkazik on 21st. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris Another accentor which gave itself up without a struggle. At least four on the cliffs above the drinking trough area at Demirkazik on 21st. Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava Common at the Cukurova and Goksu Deltas, Also common by the lake at Nigde on 22nd, with occasional singles noted elsewhere. The birds we saw were of the black headed form M. f. feldegg which differs from the more familiar Yellow Wagtail by its very different head and mantle colour, as well as a different male display and a recognisably different call. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Great views of a pair by the lake at Nigde on 22nd, where they appeared to be breeding. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea A family party of at least six birds along the roadside stream between Camardi and Nigde on 22nd. White Wagtail Motacilla alba Three juveniles at Birecik on 18th must have fledged locally. Thereafter, occasional singles noted in the lowlands apart from one in the Emli Valley on 23rd. Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Noted in small numbers around Cukurbag from 20th to 23rd. Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus One at Demirkazik on 21st and another in the Emli Valley on 23rd. A real beauty! Serin Serinus serinus At least six showed well in the Cukurova Delta on 16th. Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Widespread in small numbers in the Adana and Cukurova Delta region. Also one at Durnalik on 17th and occasional sightings near Birecik and Halfeti. Regularly seen and heard at Cukurbag from 20th to 23rd, and a few around our hotel at Silifke and at the Goksu Delta. Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Widespread in small numbers and most days. Birds in Turkey are of the race C. c. niediecki. Linnet Carduelis cannabina Small numbers in suitable habitat around Durnalik and Demirkazik. The local birds of the race C. c. bella tend to be slightly brighter and with more extensive white areas than European birds. Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys sanguineus A single bird appeared briefly two or three times at Demirkazik on 21st, but was only glimpsed by a lucky few. Fortunately we bumped into a small breeding colony between Camardi and Nigde the following day and



enjoyed stunning views of these cracking little birds. Voted ‘Bird of the Tour’ by an overwhelming majority. Birds in Turkey belong to the nominate race, and are quite distinct from North African birds. Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta Two dropped in briefly at Durnalik on 17th but were gone before most where aware they had arrived. Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Small numbers noted along the expressway between Adana and Nurdagi, and in the Camardi area. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Six in the Emli Valley on 23rd. Birds in Turkey are of the race E. c. hordei. Cinereous Bunting Emberiza cineracea A pair plus a male showed well at Durnalik on 17th. These birds appear to be of the eastern race E. c. semenowi with strongly washed yellowish underparts. Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana A singing male on the lower slopes of Demirkazik on 21st, followed by three or more between Camardi and Nigde on 22nd. Cretzschmar's Bunting Emberiza caesia At least two males at Durnalik on 17th and six or more singing males in the hills above Silifke on 24th. Black-headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala Widespread throughout the tour in suitable habitat, mostly in arable areas with scattered bushes and open orchards. A regular roadside bird on travel days. MAMMALS Apart from the occasional mouse and rat which remain unidentified, the following were seen: Persian Squirrel Sciurus anomalus One in the Emli Valley on 23rd. Brown Hare Lepus europaeus One at the Cukurova Delta on 16th was the only sighting. Asia Minor Souslik Spermophilus xanthoprymnus Common in grasslands in the Demirkazik region to Nigde. Red Fox Vulpes vulpes One seen by Tony close to the roadside below Camardi on 23rd was probably this species, although it was quite distinct from the Red Fox we know in Europe. Wild Goat Capra aegagrus At least 12 at Demirkazik on 21st. These are magnificent mammals, and although called ‘Wild Goat’ in mammal world lists, this is a true ibex, filling the gap between Alpine, Nubian and Siberian Ibexes. BUTTERFLIES Cold and wet weather in the Emli Valley and Camardi unfortunately put paid to some of the better butterflies this year. This list summarises those seen sufficiently well to identify. Many others were not identified. Common Swallowtail Papilio machaon – Birecik Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius - Durnalik Small White Artogeia rapae - widespread Large White Pieris brassicae - widespread Eastern Bath White Pontia edusa - widespread Clouded Yellow Colias crocea - widespread Anatolian Fiery Copper Lycaena asabinus - Demirkazik



Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi – Durnalik Little Blue Cupido minimus albocilia – Demirkazik (this form endemic to the Aladag) Common Blue Polyommatus icarus – Durnalik, Silifke Southern White Admiral Limenitis reducta – Durnalik, Silifke Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae - Demirkazik Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta - Birecik Cardinal Argynnis pandora – Durnalik Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia – Durnalik Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus – Demirkazik Levantine Marbled White Melanargia titea standfussi Silifke Anatolian Grayling Hipparchia pellucida - Halfeti DRAGONFLIES The European field guide covers western Turkey as far as Adana and the Aladaglar, but Birecik falls outside this area. The following have been identified from the European guide, mostly using photos taken on the trip: Common Bluetail Ischnura elegans – Birecik Blue Emperor Anax imperator – widespread Lesser Emperor Anax parthenope - Birecik, Goksu Delta Small Skimmer Orthetrum taeniolatum - Birecik Slender Skimmer Orthetrum sabina - Goksu Delta Broad Scarlet Crocothemis erythraea - Birecik and Goksu Delta Red Chaser Libellula pontica – Goksu Delta Dark-winged Groundling Brachythemis fuscopalliata Goksu Delta Common Darter Sympetrum striolatum - Goksu Delta Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombii - Nigde Violet Dropwing Trithemis annulata - Birecik REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS Most were seen too briefly to identify. Here’s a list of those which were seen slightly better with some tentative identifications: European Green Toad Pseudepidalea viridis – Hatchlings at the Cukurova Delta Bedriaga’s Frog Pelophylax bedriagae – common in wetlands throughout Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca – occasional sightings including three in the Goksu Delta. Stripe-necked Terrapin Mauremys rivulata – Common in the delta wetlands and along the Euphrates Green Turtle Chelonia mydas – just one offshore from the hotel on 25th. Listed as

Critically Endangered. Starred Agama Laudakia stellio – widespread in rocky places Eastern Green Lizard Lacerta viridis – probably the small green lizard seen in rocky, dry places

such as Durnalik. Black Whip Snake Dolichophis jugularis – the thin, dark snake which shot across the road was

probably this species. ‘BIN END LOTS’!! Various other oddities (mostly insects) were noted and enjoyed; many will have to remain unidentified but we did see the following Ant Lion Palpares libelluloides – that strange winged creature on the steppe near Halfeti. Ground Mantis Geomantis larvoides – noted on the stony steppe at Birecik and near Halfeti Hummingbird Hawkmoth Macroglossum stellatarum Eastern Hornet Vespa orientalis

Turkey: Taurus Mountains, Birecik & the Southern Deltas

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