Turfgrass Questions If you'v goe ot questio yon wanu Drt...

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MiilliiMiiimmmmiiiHiiHiiiiiiiiiiiiimmiimiiHiiiiimiiiJitiin^ Turfgrass Questions Answered by Grau i id I inn .111 HERE sound principles have been fol- lowed in the construction and plant- ing of greens the job of maintaining the greens is made much easier. Still, certain basic principles of maintenance must be carried out in order to keep the greens as perfect as new. Soil management to maintain physical and chemical fertility is essential. The pro- ductive soil must contain needed plant nu- trients plus sufficient oxygen that plant roots can function to take up nutrients. Adequate fertilization is a principle that everyone should recognize by now. Clip- pings are removed from putting greens so all the plant food used for growth must be replaced by fertilizer. Nitrogen is the most vital element for grasses. Frequent, light applications throughout the growing sea- son usually are preferred. Phosphorus and potash may be applied spring and fall. Lime influences both chemical and physical soil conditions. It neutralizes soil acids, thereby raising the pH. In clay soils it has the physical effect of improving struc- ture by aggregating small particles. Use Aerating Tools Physical soil condition is maintained by mechanical loosening of the soil to over- come compaction. Aerating tools, used reg- ularly, keep soil porous and well-ventilated. PropeT use of water is another funda- mental principle. Water deep but water seldom is the general rule to follow. Light sprinkling that wets only the soil surface restricts root growth to this shallow moist layer. Frequent watering that keeps soil saturated suffocates the roots, encourages disease and breaking down of soil struc- ture. Water deep and then don't water again until the grass needs it. Water in the early morning, rather than at night, to reduce disease. Keep soil open to prevent wasteful runoff and assure deep penetra- tion. Control of disease is a basic principle. Disease can weaken or destroy large areas If you've got o question you want Dr. T Fred V. Grau to help you answer in this department, please address it to Grou Q&A, Golfdom, 407 S. Dearborn, Chicago 5, Ml. 11 mim 1111 mm mmmi 11 mimj 11 mil 111 mum 111 mmm rmimi mimnm of turf on putting greens. If good cultural practices are carried out the disease prob- lem is less severe. Even so, it is wise to pro- tect the turl with preventive chemicals when weather conditions are critical. Control of insects is another fundamen- tal. Insects weaken the turf and allow weeds to invade. Fortunately, we have excellent insecticides to give protection from insect pests. Control of weeds is basic. Proper water- ing and the control of diseases and insects tltat weaken torf will go a long way in preventing weed invasion. Tight, vigorous turf is the best defense against weeds. If turf becomes thin enough to prevent weeds to come in, then chemical control may be necessary. Grain and Thatch Control Control of grain and thatch is a basic principle. Close, frequent mowing and the use of brushes and combs help to prevent grain and thatch. Regular use of vertical mowers is the surest way to prevent grain and thatch, and to ensure a true putting surface at all times. Vertical mowing to re- move surface accumulation makes disease control easier and it helps to limit the spread of weeds, too. Proper mowing is another fundamental. Proper mowing on putting greens means close cutting to keep a tight, smooth turf. It must be frequent so only a small amount of leaf length is removed at each mow- ing. The greens mower is a precision tool. Blades must be sharp enough to cut clean without bruising. Machines must be kept in perfect condition to provide a uni- formly smojdi cut. Trained lahor also is basic. The men who work on putting greens must be capable of careful workmanship. They must under- stand the importance of using the proper quantities of chemicals and the necessity for keeping machines in good operating condition. They must be trained tii^* use sprayers and distributors properly so

Transcript of Turfgrass Questions If you'v goe ot questio yon wanu Drt...

Page 1: Turfgrass Questions If you'v goe ot questio yon wanu Drt Tarchive.lib.msu.edu/tic/golfd/article/1956may84a.pdf · Lime influence bot chemicah ans d l physical soi conditionsl I neutralizet

MiilliiMiiimmmmiiiHiiHiiiiiiiiiiiiimmiimiiHiiiiimiiiJitiin̂

Turfgrass Questions Answered by Grau i id I inn .111

H E R E sound pr inc ip les have been fol-lowed in the cons t ruc t ion and p lan t -

ing of greens the j o b of m a i n t a i n i n g the greens is m a d e much easier. Still, ce r t a in basic pr inc ip les of m a i n t e n a n c e mus t be carr ied ou t in o rder to keep the greens as perfect as new.

Soil m a n a g e m e n t to ma in t a in physical a n d chemical fer t i l i ty is essential. T h e pro-duct ive soil must conta in needed p l an t nu -t r ients plus suff ic ient oxygen tha t p l a n t roots can func t ion to take u p nu t r i en t s . Adequa te fer t i l izat ion is a p r inc ip l e t h a t everyone should recognize by now. Cl ip-pings are removed f rom p u t t i n g greens so all the p lan t food used for growth must be replaced by fert i l izer. N i t rogen is the mos t vital e l ement for grasses. F requen t , l igh t appl ica t ions t h r o u g h o u t the g rowing sea-son usually are p re fe r red . Phosphorus a n d potash may be app l i ed sp r ing and fall .

L ime inf luences bo th chemical a n d physical soil condi t ions . I t neutra l izes soil acids, thereby ra is ing the p H . In clay soils it has the physical effect of improv ing struc-tu re by aggrega t ing small particles.

Use Aera t ing Too l s Physical soil cond i t ion is ma in t a ined by

mechanical loosening of the soil to over-come compact ion . Aera t ing tools, used reg-ularly, keep soil porous and well-venti lated.

PropeT use of wa te r is ano the r f u n d a -men ta l pr inciple . W a t e r d e e p bu t wa te r se ldom is the genera l ru l e to follow. Light sp r ink l ing that wets only the soil surface restricts roo t growth to this shallow moist layer. F r e q u e n t wa te r ing t ha t keeps soil sa tura ted suffocates the roots, encourages disease and b reak ing down of soil struc-ture . W a t e r deep and then don ' t water again un t i l the grass needs it . W a t e r in the ear ly m o r n i n g , r a t h e r than a t n ight , to reduce disease. Keep soil open to p r e v e n t wasteful runof f and assure deep penet ra-t ion.

C o n t r o l of disease is a basic pr inc ip le . Disease can weaken or destroy large areas

If you've got o question you want Dr. T

Fred V. Grau to help you answer in this department, please address it to Grou Q&A, Golfdom, 407 S. Dearborn,

Chicago 5, Ml.

11 mim 1111 mm mmmi 11 mimj 11 mil 111 mum 111 mmm rmimi mimnm

of turf on p u t t i n g greens. If good cu l tu ra l practices are carr ied o u t the disease prob-lem is less severe. Even so, it is wise to pro-tect the tur l with prevent ive chemicals when wea the r condi t ions are critical.

Con t ro l of insects is a n o t h e r f u n d a m e n -tal. Insects weaken the turf and al low weeds to invade. For tuna te ly , we have excel lent insecticides to give pro tec t ion f r o m insect pests.

Con t ro l of weeds is basic. P r o p e r water-ing and the con t ro l of diseases and insects tltat weaken torf will go a long way in p reven t ing weed invasion. T i g h t , vigorous turf is the best defense against weeds. If turf becomes thin e n o u g h to p reven t weeds to come in, then chemical contro l m a y be necessary.

Grain and Thatch Control Cont ro l of g ra in and thatch is a basic

pr inc ip le . Close, f r e q u e n t m o w i n g and the use of brushes and combs he lp to p reven t grain a n d thatch. R e g u l a r use of vertical mowers is the surest way to p reven t grain a n d thatch, and to ensu re a t rue p u t t i n g surface at all times. Vertical m o w i n g to re-move surface accumula t ion makes disease control easier and it he lps to l imi t the spread of weeds, too.

P roper m o w i n g is ano the r f u n d a m e n t a l . P r o p e r mowing o n p u t t i n g greens means close cu t t ing to keep a t ight , smooth turf . It must be f r e q u e n t so only a small a m o u n t of leaf l eng th is r emoved a t each mow-ing. T h e greens m o w e r is a precis ion tool. Blades mus t be sha rp enough to cut clean wi thou t bruis ing. Mach ines mus t be kep t in perfect condi t ion to provide a uni-formly s m o j d i cut.

T r a i n e d lahor also is basic. T h e men w h o work on p u t t i n g greens must be capable of careful workmansh ip . T h e y must under -s tand the impor t ance of us ing the p r o p e r quan t i t i es of chemicals and the necessity for keep ing machines in good ope ra t i ng condi t ion . T h e y must be t ra ined tii^* use sprayers a n d d is t r ibutors proper ly so

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ft there is no sk ipp ing o r ove r l app ing . T h e y must, be t aught to hand le machines skill-f u l l y , to make tu rns off the p u t t i n g area, to ad ju s t mach ines correctly for the exist-

- ing condi t ions . Even though we know the basic princi-

-ples of m a i n t a i n i n g turf , few peop le could main ta in perfect p u t t i n g greens simply by r e a d i n g the rules. The aler t care of an ex-per ienced s u p e r i n t e n d e n t is an i m p o r t a n t

-factor . T h e abil i ty to recognize u n u s u a l condi t ions , to i n t e r p r e t a n d to t rea t them correctly is the qua l i ty tha t makes a good s u p e r i n t e n d e n t indispensable .

O—Wc wish to improve o u r tees. W o u l d you advise seeding t hem w i t h Mer ion blue-grass or wi th Bermuda? (N. C.)

A—1 wou ld not r e c o m m e n d seeding e i ther Mer ion Kentucky bluegrass or Ber-m u d a . I am a f i rm believer in sodding tees wi th a good solid sod f r o m a nursery. T h e

..areas are small e n o u g h so it is practical a n d the t i es can be used wi th in a week or t en days a f t e r sodding. Unless tees are heavily shaded, 1 d o u b t that M e r i o n would be the

_l,est grass. O n e of the improved B e r m u d a s which are g rown f r o m sprigs or stolons wou ld be much be t te r . A m o n g these are

T i f f i n e , U-3, Uganda , G e n e T i f t . O n c e es-tablished, a sod nursery is a never -ending source of p l a n t i n g mater ia l ,

Q—We wish to establish bentgrass greens. Which strain would you r e c o m m e n d for o u r area? (N. M.)

A—A b e n t tha t is giving good results in h i g h t empe ra tu r e areas is Cohansey (C-7) ben t . H e a t resistance is o n e of its ou t -s t and ing characteristics. P e n n l u is a n o t h e r good s t ra in of ben t bu t it has no t yet had its "bap t i sm of f i re" in the h igh- tempera-tu re areas.

Q—Pearlwort o n p u t t i n g greens is o u r p rob lem. W h a t d o you advise? (Wise.)

A—Research at P e n n State has shown tha t the be t te r s trains of c reep ing ben t are effective in c rowding o u t pear lwor t . T h e most aggressive we know of to da te is P e n n l u c reep ing ben t . Congressional (C-19) is a n o t h e r good o n e for your area; also T o r -on to a n d Old Orcha rd ,

I w o u l d r ecommend tha t you establish a sod nursery (ma in ta ined like a p u t t i n g green) of ben t s f r o m which you can take-sod p lugs to replace p lugs of pea r lwor t t ha t you remove.

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P e a r l w o f t seems to thrive on lots of mois-ture . Perhaps there could be some way of r educ ing the a m o u n t of water app l i ed .

Vertical mowing helps to reducc pearl-wort by t h i n n i n g it. Arsenate of lead he lps to discourage pea r l wor t . Apply 5 p o u n d s to 1,000 sq. f t . at each appl ica t ion , repea t once a m o n t h unt i l results show—then twice a year, sp r ing and fall .

Q—What a r e the cont ro ls for goosegrass? (Mass.)

A—One of the controls tha t has been used with a fair degree of success, par t icular ly in the southwest , has been a combina t ion of phenyl mercury acetate and 2,4-0, T h i s is a bit risky in the humid areas, b u t has been used successfully. A n o t h e r control for goosegrass is di sodium methyl a rsonate (sold u n d e r var ious b rand names). Vertical mowing is a good mechanical cont ro l .

Q—We have used calcium cyanamid to sterilize topdress ing a t d i f f e r e n t l imes. Sometimes the resul ts are very good indeed , b u t at o ther t imes it is not nearly so effec-tive. H a v e you any idea why we canno t always ob ta in the same results'? (K.y.)

A—Cyanamid r equ i r e s w a r m t h and mois-ture in o r d e r to work effectively. Soil ma-terial should be k e p t moist , t hough n o t

soaked. If the p r o p e r a m o u n t of cyanamid is used and the t empe ra tu r e a n d mois ture factors are correct, then you should ob ta in consistent results.

Q—Do seeded or stolonized bents root more deeply? (Ia.)

A—I do no t know of any compara t ive^ da ta o n d e p t h of r oo t i ng of seeded and s to loniferous bents . 1 r a the r th ink that o the r factors in f luence roo t i ng dep th . Im-p r o p e r wa te r ing , a surface tha tch or bur-, ted layer would induce shallow root ing, regardless of the type of bent . O n the o the r hand , good d ra inage and aera t ion , d e e p water ing and feeding would p romote deep-er roo t ing of any grass.

Q—Soil in o u r greens is sandy and well-d ra ined , which 1 unde r s t and is the ideal condi t ion . However , we f ind that the greens* dry ou t quickly and the grass is r a the r thin and of poor color . Do you th ink we have too much sand? (Mich.)

A—Not necessarily. H a v e you taken into considerat ion t ha t grass g rowing on sandy soils usually d e m a n d s more f r e q u e n t ferti-lizing? T h e usual fert i l izer r e c o m m e n d ; u tions, based on "average" condi t ions , m u s P be var ied to meet ind iv idua l needs . In your

Page 4: Turfgrass Questions If you'v goe ot questio yon wanu Drt Tarchive.lib.msu.edu/tic/golfd/article/1956may84a.pdf · Lime influence bot chemicah ans d l physical soi conditionsl I neutralizet

case, more f r e q u e n t app l ica t ions to com-pensate for leaching may be needed. T h e ex t ra feeding he lps the grass to p u t down deep roots, thus less f r e q u e n t i r r igat ion is r equ i red .

Q—What is a good fert i l izer to use o n b e n t g reens to start them o u t in the spring? W h a t ra te would you use? W o u l d you add arsenate of l ead to con t ro l worms? (Wis.)

A—A well ba lanced fertil izer for early sp r ing use is 10-10-10 (or similar) used a t the ra te of 10 Ih. to 1,000 sq. ft., or , suf-f ic ient to supp ly o n e p o u n d of n i t rogen to 1,000, p lus phosphorous a n d potash.

I t is well to have p a r t ol the n i t rogen quickly available—the r e m a i n d e r slowly available derived f rom n a t u r a l o r synthet-ic o rgan ics.

Apply ing the sp r ing fert i l izer immediate-ly fol lowing thorough aera t ion will serve to get deeper pene t ra t ion of t he fertil izer m o r e quickly to aid root g rowth .

1 have seen countless good examples of the va lue of a d d i n g 5 lbs. a rsenate of lead to the fert i l izer. No t only does it check worms bu t also chickweed, poa a n n u a , etc.

Don ' t forget that soil Ust to keep a check on your "soil bank . "

Q—You r e c o m m e n d e d 10-10-10 fert i l izer

for early sp r ing use. Should this he ap-pl ied "as is" or should it be mixed with black di r t or Mi lo rgan i t e to k e e p it f r o m b u r n i n g ? Did we u n d e r s t a n d also tha t we could add 5 lbs. of a r e n a t e of lead per 1,000 sq. f t . o r was it 5 lbs. per green? (Wis.)

A —If you apply the mixed fertil izer (10-10-10) to the green im media tely a l t e r you have aer i f ied and before you break the plugs and d rag them in, you will not need to mix it. It will be mixed sufficiently with the soil of the plugs to keep it f rom burn-ing, par t icular ly since you will wa te r the green well when it has been f inished. If you apply the fert i l izer o n the grass w-i th-ou t a e ra t i ng of any kind it will be a good idea to mix it wi th some non-burn-ing mater ia l a n d wa te r it in well. T h e ra te for arsenate of lead is 5 p o u n d s to 1,000 sq. f t .

Q—We have a w a t e r i n g system which we use to draw directly f r o m the lake. T h e big ques t ion is, when is the best t ime to water; in the real ear ly m o r n i n g or a t night? Please give us your o p i n i o n . (Wis.)

A—The b : s t t ime to water is in the early m o r n i n g . T h i s washes the dew and the g u t t a t e d wa te r off the grass b lades in to

(Continued on page 114)

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Page 5: Turfgrass Questions If you'v goe ot questio yon wanu Drt Tarchive.lib.msu.edu/tic/golfd/article/1956may84a.pdf · Lime influence bot chemicah ans d l physical soi conditionsl I neutralizet

•MI T h e B u s i n e s s J o u r n a l of G o l f

Vol 30—Number 5 MAY, 1956

CONTENTS

Swinging Around Golf Herb Graffis 3

Alter Course fnr Members and Hogan Dim Jenkins 37

Snowmold Control J. f{. Watson, ]r. 40

Service to Golfers Featured at Ft. Myers Shop Herb Graffis 4 4

Record Snows Puzzle IV.E. Superintendents Homer Darting 48

Old Pro's Advice (Assistants' Drpt) Harry I'ezzullo 5 0

Chicago District Club lteporl 5ft

I'm Proud of This Sale Tom Walsh 60

Pros Star tts Schoolmasters in Michigan 64

Pro's Promotion Work Has New Course Bttsy George Karger 6 8

Prepare Budget As Aid in Maintenance Howard Baerwahl 82

Turfgrass Questions Answered by Grau 8 4

M a n u f a c t u r i n g News 97

Grau on Turfgrass (Continued, from page 87)

the soil. This reduces the chances for diseases to spread. The 'dew' contains dis-solved nutrients which are helpful to di-sease. This recommendation of early morn-ing watering was developed in the early I980's by Monteith and Dahl on putting greens on the old Bannockburn course.

The exception to this recommendation is mid-afternoon "syringing" or "showering o f f " when grass starts to wilt during high temperatures, even when the soil is wet,

Q—What damages would you expect in the summer time if goiters use the tees and greens during the m o n d i of March when the ground is soggy antl wet? (N. Y.)

A—Summertime damage resulting from March play could be severe or negligible depending upon the follow-up treatment in April and May, It is not always possible to close the course when the soil is wet. Some tees and greens are wetter than others, even when the course is open and on these the damage is likely to be more severe.

If the members insist on playing and if the chairman agrees and overrides your veto, be sure to explain in writing that there will be some very necessary interrup-

tions to play in April and May. At this time, in order to repair the damage done by a few players in March, you will have to temporarily close to play a green or a tee at a time while you thoroughly aerify, verti-cut, fertilize, topdress, plug, sod, seed, sprig — or whatever else is needed — to re-store good playing surfaces for the sum-mer.

Players, caddies, and carts leave dents and ruts in soft turf. Roots are shallow in early spring and turf may actually slide when walked upon. This disturbed sod may die if dry weather follows.

Some of the soggy wetness may be a good indication of the need for drainage — maybe you have seepage. The sooner it is located and corrected the better.

Q—What causes velvet bent greens to ap-pear ch tor otic until very late in the spring? (Conn.)

A—Several factors might be involved. Exces-sive amount of water might be die cause, A badly matted condition could do it. Cold, cloudy weather retards growth and color. Or, an excess of phosphorus, a deficiency of iron or some other factor might be involved. Re-gardless of cause, the best way to correct the condition is with regular applications of I soluble iron. Iron sulfate often is used. Chelat-ed iron is another recommended material.