Tuck Pointing Summaries

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  • What are the basic parts of a tuck pointer?

    Shop for Tuck Pointers

    The structure of a tuck pointer is very simple. All types of

    tuck pointer have a long blade which is thin enough to fit

    into brick joints, attached via a tang and ferrule to a

    handle that is far enough from the base of the blade for

    the user to press mortar into a brick joint without their

    hand coming into contact with the wall.

    Blade

    The blade of a tuck pointer has a long toe and pronounced

    heel, to allow it to fill the whole length of a brick joint.

    The blades on conventional tuck pointers also have

    narrow edges to allow them to slice easily through

    mortar.

  • Some manufacturers produce tuck pointers with tall, thin

    blades that are useful for cutting and carrying larger slices

    of mortar.

    Taller tuck pointers sometimes have grooved blades

    which leave a 'bead' of lighter-coloured mortar when they

    are scored over recently-laid mortar. This is useful for

    traditional tuck pointing.

    Ferrule

    Tuck pointers are usually held together by a ferrule: a

    circular clamp that holds the blade and tang in place

    through "crimping" (depressed grooves in the metal

    created by a crimping tool). Rubber or fibreglass tuck

    pointers sometimes lack a ferrule, and the handle is

    simply sealed around the tang, or attached via a joint that

    allows the handle to rotate. For more information on

    alternatives to the ferrule, see What are the different types

    of tuck pointer?

    Grip

    The grip of the tuck pointer is simply the part held by the

    user while they are using the tool. It is angled away from

    the blade to ensure as much comfort and leverage as

    possible.

    Tang

    The blade and tang of the tuck pointer are usually forged

    as one piece, but may be welded together, with the tang

    extending up into the grip, secured by a ferrule. This

    structure allows the user to apply greater pressure with the

    tuck pointer, because the force is leveraged through the

    handle rather than being fixed on the point of connection

    between the handle and the blade

  • What are the different types of tuck pointer?

    Shop for Tuck Pointers

    Standard tuck pointers can be found in a variety of

    different widths, lengths, and depths, to suit different

    situations and fit in different brick joints. The blades

    commonly range in width from 6mm (") to 25mm

    (1"), although some are as narrow as 1mm (364").

    Some manufacturers also make specialist tuckpointing

    tools, used for laying contrasting fillets of mortar into

    darker-coloured mortar. These are shaped differently to

    most tuck pointers and often have grooved blades that

    allow them to leave thin beads of lighter-coloured

    mortar.

    The standard tuck pointer

    Most tuck pointers consist of a long, thin blade

    connected to a handle by a tang and ferrule. They are

    the most versatile kind of tuck pointer, useful for

    everyday repointing, as well as applying mortar, caulk

    or plaster to areas that might be difficult to reach with

    any other kind of pointing trowel.

    Tuck pointers with rotating blades

    Some tuck pointers have inverted or rotating handles,

    which makes them even more useful in tight spaces.

    Unfortunately the unfixed tang on this type of tuck

    pointer gives them less leverage than a conventional

    tuck pointer.

  • Specialist tuckpointing tools

    A regular tuck pointer is fine for any repointing,

    plastering or caulking jobs, but it can't cut a narrow bead

    through mortar or leave tuck-pointed fillets behind. For

    traditional tuckpointing, there are a variety of specialist

    tuckpointing tools which can be produced to suit the needs

    of the user. These are listed below:

    "Square-beaded" tuck pointers

    "Square-beaded" tuck pointers, sold by a small number of

    manufacturers, have grooves in the base of the blade

    which can cut into mortar joints and fill the space with a

    bead of contrasting mortar, to achieve an old-fashioned

    tuckpointing effect. Whilst great for traditional

    tuckpointing, these tools are not very versatile, and can't

    be used for everyday repointing or mortar spreading.

    Round-cornered tuck pointers

    Round-cornered tuck pointers are useful for tuckpointing

    rounded bricks. Tuck pointers can be made to specified

    concave or convex angles, to suit any curved wall that

    needs to be tuckpointed.

    Snubnosed tuck pointers

    There are also custom-length snubnosed tuck pointers

    which have uncommonly short blades. They can be used

    to apply mortar to very tight corners or ornate brickwork.

    Ornate, decorative architecture often has brick joints that

    would be difficult to reach with a conventional tuck

    pointer or a larger specialist tuckpointing tool.

  • Longnosed tuck pointers

    As well as snubnosed tuck pointers, there are also

    longnosed tuck pointers, which can be equally useful in

    reaching difficult brick joints.

    How to repoint a wall with a tuck pointer Shop for Tuck Pointers

    The main use of a tuck pointer is to press mortar into

    brick joints during repointing. Tuck pointers are useful for

    this because they are narrow enough to fit lengthways into

    most brick joints.

    Repointing a wall needs to be done right, or brickwork

    can deteriorate into a very poor condition. It's more than

    just slapping on some mortar with a tuck pointer!

  • Preparation

    When repointing a wall, you will need:

    Tuck Pointer

    Pointing Trowel

    Mortar Hawk

    Plugging Chisel

    Club Hammer

    Stiff Hand Brush

    Squeegee

    Water Bottle or Pressure Sprayer

    Several bags of cement or lime

    Several bags of sand

    Mortar Additive

    Spade, trowel, and wheel barrow or 'boat' for

    mixing mortar

    It is very important to use the right mortar for the wall

    you're planning to repoint. In many older buildings, the

    brickwork must be repointed with traditional lime mortar

    rather than modern cement-based mortar. Older walls are

    more susceptible to damp and mould, and the lime mortar

    acts as a sponge, absorbing water and allowing it to

    evaporate.

    Preparing the wall

    Step 1 - Remove loose mortar

    Before adding new mortar to a wall, it is important to

    remove some of the old mortar. Applying a thin layer of

    new mortar on top of damaged mortar will only make the

    wall more likely to fail. Use the brush to get rid of loose

    mortar, being careful not to sweep away chunks of mortar

    that are supporting loose bricks.

    Step 2 - Make room for the new joint

    Once the loose material is gone, use a hammer and chisel

    to carefully knock the surface mortar from each brick

    joint, to a depth of roughly 6mm (1/4 of an inch). There

    needs to be enough space for the new mortar to gain a

    foothold, without removing too much of the mortar that's

    already in place, which would destabilise the wall.

  • Step 3 - Wet the wall

    Before applying mortar, the wall must be wetted. Dry

    bricks and mortar will absorb the moisture out of the new

    mortar and stop it from setting properly. Use a water

    bottle or paint sprayer to dampen the bricks, and then

    dampen them again after the first coat of water has been

    absorbed by the bricks.

    Mixing the mortar

    Step 1- Wet your tools

    Before mixing your mortar, wet any tools and receptacles

    you'll be using.

    Step 2 - Mix your mortar

    A batch of mortar should generally have a ratio of one

    part of dry cement or lime for every three parts of sand.

    You can measure out this mixture by simply adding one

    heaped trowel or spadeful of cement for every three

    heaped trowels or spadefuls of sand.

    Add the dry ingredients to the mixing receptacle and mix

    them thoroughly with your trowel before adding water.

    Be careful not to dump the ingredients from a height,

    which will lead to a lot of cement being lost as dust,

    which is dangerous if breathed in.

    Add small amounts of water and keep mixing until the

    mix has the consistency of mashed potatoes. It's important

    for the mortar not to be too wet or too dry. You can test

    the consistency as you mix by scooping up a small

    amount of mortar on your trowel and letting it slide off.

    The consistency will be perfect when the mortar sticks to

    the trowel but slides off slowly when you turn the trowel

    on its side. If you use a mortar addative (recommended),

    make sure you follow the manufacturers instructions.

    Try not to make more mortar than you need. Once you

    have mixed a batch of mortar, you only have 30-40

    minutes before it hardens, after which it cannot be used.

    Some builders add more water to their mortar later on to

    keep it workable, but this doesn't stop it from hardening at

    a chemical level. Any mortar that is more than 40 minutes

    old should not be used. It will crack very quickly after it

  • has been applied, and more repointing will be necessary.

    Leave the mortar to 'slake' for seven minutes - this is the

    period that it takes for the chemical reactions to take place

    which will bond the mortar together.

    Applying the mortar

    Once the old mortar has been removed, and your new

    mortar has slaked, you are ready to start applying the

    mortar. Use the pointing trowel to scoop mortar onto your

    mortar hawk.

    Holding the mortar hawk in one hand and the tuck pointer

    in the other, use the tuck pointer to slice off a "lift" of

    mortar which is thick enough to fill a bed joint.

    Step 1 - Bed Joints

    Line up your mortar hawk directly with the bed joint and

    use the tuck pointer to push the lift into the joint, packing

    it in as much as possible to prevent any pockets of air

    being trapped behind it. Repeat this at a fast pace until

    you've finished a whole row of bed joints.

    Step 2 - Head Joints

    After each row of bed joints, fill in the vertical joints in

    the same way. When repointing verticals it can be easier

    to scrape the mortar off a large pointing trowel rather than

    a mortar hawk.

    Step 3 - Keep Going!

    Continue this process until you've used up your mortar

    and a section of the wall is done. For large walls it's better

    to stagger your repointing over several sessions, to avoid

    weakening the wall or tiring yourself out.

  • Tidying Up

    Step 1 - Cleaning the brick face

    Turn the tuck pointer on its side and use it to scrape off

    any large flakes or "feathers" of excess mortar.

    Go over the wall with your squeegee to remove any

    mortar that has built up on the surface of your wall. It is

    important to use a squeegee for this step, as a tuck pointer

    could leave permanent and unsightly scratch-marks on the

    brick face.

    Use a stiff brush to clean any remaining mortar off the

    brick faces.

    Step 2 - Pointing

    Now you have finally got to the 'pointing' stage of

    repointing. Pointing is the process of shaping a brick joint

    to make it more resistant to weather. A popular kind of

    pointing is a concave joint, but there are alternative styles.

    If you have a round-edged tuck pointer, you can run its

    base along the joints to depress the mortar into the right

    shape. For drier mortar it can be more effective to use

    other pointing tools such as a brick jointer. See Brick

    jointers and brick rakes for more information on brick

    joints and tools for brick jointing.

    Step 3 - Final Wetting

    Leave the new joints for several hours and then apply a

    mist of water over the bricks to keep the mortar wet and

    ensure the proper chemical hardening process.

  • Step 4 - Clean your tools

    Once you have finished repointing, it is important to clean

    your tools properly. See Tuck pointer maintenance and

    care for details of how to look after your tuck pointer.

    How to tuckpoint a wall Shop for Tuck Pointers

    Traditional tuckpointing (which is not the same thing as

    regular repointing!) is a fine art, with many secrets known

    only to a small number of master craftsmen - but that's no

    reason why you shouldn't give it a go. You will need

    many of the same tools as you would when repointing a

    wall. See How to repoint a wall with a tuck pointer for a

    full list. In addition, you will need the following tools and

    materials.

    Tuckpointing Tools and Materials

    You will need:

    A professional tuckpointing tool, with a grooved

    edge that can leave a square bead of contrasting

    mortar

    A tuckpointer's straight edge (or a thin, straight-

    edged plank of wood)

    Two contrasting colours of mortar. One colour

    needs to resemble the colour of the brickwork.

    The other, used for the fillet, is usually white.

    Many tuckpointers use lime mortar (non-hydraulic

    lime mixed with water to create a slurry) as a

    fillet.

  • A Frenchman

    How to tuckpoint

    Step 1 - Mix brick-coloured mortar

    The most important element of tuckpointing is creating a

    mortar which disguises the original brick joint. To do this,

    the mortar needs to be roughly the same colour as the

    brick work. This can be achieved by buying pre-coloured

    dry cement, adding a dye to the mortar mix, or trying to

    colour the mortar yourself using sand that is a similar

    colour to the brick. The basics of mixing mortar are

    explained in How to repoint a wall with a tuckpointer.

    Step 2 - Apply brick-coloured mortar

    Once you've mixed the mortar, apply it to the wall which

    you want to tuckpoint. Ensure that the mortar fills the

    entire joint and is flush (in line with) with the surface of

    the brick.

    Step 3- Mix contrasting mortar

    Quickly mix a batch of lime mortar, combining non-

    hydraulic lime with sand and water, using the same

    methods lined out in How to repoint a wall with a tuck

    pointer.

    Step 4 - Line up the straight edge

    Compact a large lump of lime mortar against one side of

    your straight edge (this will come in handy in the next

    step), then place the straight edge against the wall, with

    the mortar facing out towards you. If you've compacted

    the mortar, it should stay on the straight edge without

    falling off. Once you've prepared the mortar, line up the

    straight edge with the bed joint so that the top is slightly

    less than halfway up the joint.

  • Step 5 - Collect lime mortar with your tuck

    pointer

    Holding your straight edge with one hand, use the other

    hand to scrape some lime mortar onto your tuck pointer,

    filling the groove on the base of the blade.

    Step 6 - Score your tuck pointer along the

    straight edge

    Run the tuck pointer along the top of the straight edge,

    scoring the brick-coloured mortar and leaving a bead of

    contrasting mortar.

    Step 7 - Continue

    Keep scoring beads until you've laid all of the bed joints

    you need. Do this roughly one brick at a time.

    Step 8 - Cut the fillet

    Once you have left a fillet in the joint, go over it with the

    Frenchman and shave off the excess mortar, so that the

    fillet is flush with the mortar.

    Step 9 - Lay vertical fillets

    After laying beads of lime mortar in your horizontal bed

    joints, repeat the process with your vertical head joints.

    Step 10 - Cut vertical fillets

    Use the Frenchman to shave off the excess mortar from

    vertical fillets.

  • Step 11 - Done!

    If you've followed our steps correctly, then

    congratulations! You've tuckpointed your wall like the

    master tuckpointers of old.

  • Repointing:

    How to Properly

    Restore Old Buildings

    By Mario Cantin

    Invisible Tuckpointing Ltd.

    So much has happened in the last 100 years: the automobile, electricity, the airplane, two

    world wars, television, space exploration, computers and a lot more. Consequently, we live

    faster and we build faster as well.

    Unfortunately, unless you are over 90 years old, masons have never been exposed to how our

    predecessors used to build, due to the advent of the modern cavity wall and cement-based

    mortars, which have replaced traditional bonding methods and lime-based mortars. This only

    becomes problematic when we attempt to repair older structures. It is especially made evident

    when repointing is attempted on older buildings using the wrong mortar mix and the wrong joint finishing style to boot.

    Just as we do a professional job when building new masonry projects, we can achieve the

    same degree of quality through acquired knowledge when tackling older structures.

    Definition of the Terms

    So what do you need to know? Let's start with this basic question: What is repointing? Have

    you ever wondered what the difference is between the words "pointing," "jointing,"

    "repointing" and "tuckpointing"? Although there is no longer a distinction, even among

    engineers, between the terms, over a century ago the difference was clear.

    Figure 1: A well-preserved example of tuckpointing performed circa 1850.

    Figure 2: Along with removal of the old mortar, sanding of the brick was done to create an even surface in preparation for the tuckpointing to be performed.

  • "Jointing" referred to the process of finishing the joint as the

    brickwork was erected. Jointing is what all bricklayers do today.

    "Pointing" denoted the placement and careful tooling of a mortar

    joint between bricks or stones. In contrast to jointing, pointing was

    the process of raking back the mortar joint a few days after the

    completion of the brickwork and was usually done by a different

    crew that was skilled in delivering a high-quality, consistent

    decorative finish to the joint. Also, jointing was performed at the rear

    and sides of a building, with only the front faade being pointed.

    "Repointing" referred to replacing a mortar joint when it had failed,

    on average about once a century. This was typically the type of

    restoration work completed on older mortar.

    "Tuckpointing" (Figure 1) is an interesting one, which will need

    further explanation.

    The word "tuckpointing" once referred to a specialized application of

    pointing that consisted of first sanding the bricks to a smooth, even

    surface (Figure 2), then masking the original mortar joint with a thin

    one that matched the brick in color, usually red (Figure 3). One

    would have created up to this point the illusion of looking at a solid wall of clay, as opposed to a wall consisting of individual

    bricks (Figure 4). Then, after having rubbed the red mortar with a

    piece of jute and dying the work to a uniform color, fine lines were

    cut with a knife into the "masking" mortar while it was still soft, in a

    rigidly symmetrical fashion to produce a perfect geometrical outline

    of each brick. At that point, a fine, usually white, lime putty mortar

    joint was tucked over the lines and meticulously manicured, you

    might want to say, so as to create the illusion that the wall had been

    laid with perfectly rectangular bricks in a mortar bed as thin as

    1/16th of an inch! (Figure 5)

    Tuckpointing originated in England in the 17th century as a cheaper alternative to gauged

    brickwork which was the ultimate method of laying bricks, consisting of rubbing the stones to exact dimensions and perfect edges, then dipping them lightly into lime putty,

    providing a true 1/16" joint. Tuckpointing subsequently became the pointing style of choice

    during the Georgian and Victorian periods, minimally for the front faade of brick buildings.

    If you live by or have visited older towns where Georgian and Victorian brick buildings are

    prevalent, you undoubtedly have come into contact with true tuckpointing, whether you've

    realized or not.

    It is interesting to note that "hiding" immediately behind what seems to have been a

    misunderstood nomenclature was a lost art, which, I am pleased to announce, has now been

    fully brought back to life in North America.

    Figure 3: The joint was filled with a mortar exactly matching the brick color using a typical tuckpointer tool.

    Figure 4: The joint was cut flush to create the illusion of looking at a solid sheet of clay when viewed from a distance.

    Figure 5: A fine lime putty mortar joint was tucked over the lines and meticulously trimmed using a knife and a featheredge as a guide.

  • The Recipe for a Proper Repointing Job

    All recipes require ingredients. For the repointing of older structures, the ingredients consist

    of:

    1) The Mix. Over a century ago, mortar had a different composition than the mortar used in

    modern masonry. In the past, mortar was produced from limestones that were fired at a high

    temperature, turned to powder, and then water and sand were added. It was called a lime

    putty mortar or a traditional lime-based mortar. Logistical problems, such as slow setting and

    lengthy preparation, led to the search for an easier product. One thing led to another, and

    Portland cement, which was invented and patented in England in the 19th century, eventually

    became the main mortar ingredient, making the traditional lime-based mortar obsolete for

    new construction.

    As a general rule, if the building was constructed prior to 1872, it should be repaired with a

    traditional lime-based mortar consisting only of lime and sand, as well as some color

    pigment. If the building was built between 1873 and 1932, it should be repaired with a mortar

    that consists of lime, some Portland cement and sand, as well as some color pigment. This is

    still considered a traditional lime-based mortar. If the structure was built after 1930, it can be

    repaired with a modern cement-based mortar, although I personally find that some buildings

    built up to about 1945 are best repaired with a mix consisting of Portland, lime and sand.

    2) The Sand. Don't assume that the sand you always use will do! Have a look at the sand

    used on the building you will be restoring and see if you can get a type of sand in your area

    that will, at least approximately, match it.

    3) The Pigments. The typical mineral oxide pigments available at your local masonry

    supplier will do.

    4) The Joint Finish. There used to be many styles for tooling a mortar joint, which not only

    require the right tool but also the skill.

    On the one hand, producing the proper texture in the mortar

    joint consists of using a mix that matches the existing. On the

    other hand, getting the texture right consists of acquiring the

    skill of matching the way the mortar was tooled. This is a

    skill you usually acquire by looking at the existing mortar on

    the wall and then working at reproducing the texture. Stay

    away from simply and arbitrarily using a rounded tube to

    finish the joint the same tool that bricklayers use when they are jointing the work (Figure 6). This will work with a

    modern wall that needs repointing, but it will never work for

    an older building.

    Figure 6

  • Repointing structures built before 1930 usually

    requires a recessed joint of some sort, due to the

    eroded nature of the existing surrounding mortar

    that will not have to be replaced, but must be

    matched both in color and texture. Slickers are a

    better way to go for this type of joint (Figure 7).

    A lot more can be said on the subject of brick

    and stone mortar restoration. Luckily, most of

    our past has been well documented in one way

    or another, and it's usually possible to find out

    through research what we need to know to do the best job possible.

    Historic Masonry Restoration Conference

    The International Masonry Institute, the City of Annapolis,

    Md., and the Maryland Historical Trust are teaming up in

    presenting the first in an annual series of Historic Masonry

    Restoration Conferences. The events will be headquartered at

    the Historic Inns of Annapolis, conveniently located in the

    heart of historic downtown Annapolis, August 26-28, 2004.

    A designated National Historic Landmark, Annapolis has more

    original 18th century architecture still standing than any other

    city in the United States.

    Also, recent statistics show that over half of all new

    construction contracts are for restoration or adaptive re-use,

    comprising roughly 17% of the masonry dollar.

    Restoring America's architectural treasures requires

    specialized knowledge and skills. This conference will focus

    on historic mortars, with a three-track education session

    including mortar analysis, mortar basics and a walking tour of

    historic Annapolis. Seminars will provide invaluable

    information on materials' properties, historic mortar analysis,

    lime putty and mortars, sand and aggregates, diagnostics,

    specifications and much more. Other sessions will include the

    national sand library, a case study in restoration, hands-on

    laboratory sessions in pointing and cleaning, panel discussions,

    and a final program on condition assessment.

    Registration for the event is $300 per person, and

    accommodations at the Historic Inn of Annapolis are available

    on a first come, first served basis for $149 per night.

    Classroom and hotel space is limited to 200 participants, so

    reserve your space now!

    Figure 7

  • Tuckpointing - Facts and Techniques

    Tuckpointing - History and Facts, Tuckpointing Tools, Techniques & FAQ's.

    Tuckpointing was developed in early 18th century England where at the time bricks were handmade in

    individual wooden molds and baked in kilns. The art of brick making was not as refined as it is today, and

    the wooden molds varied due to age and crude method of manufacture which resulted in generally

    irregular shaped bricks.

    In order to make more precise sized bricks, the bricks were made slightly oversize and then after being

    baked, were scraped or rubbed down by hand and these finished precise bricks were known as "gauged"

    bricks or "rubbers" for slang. These rubbed bricks were relatively more expensive to manufacture than un-

    rubbed or un-finished bricks or stones.

    When these precisely made by hand bricks (rubbers) were laid with lime mortar (lime and fine sand), the

    end result was a neat finish of red brick contrasting with very fine white brick joint.

    However to build a house with precisely made rubbed bricks was significantly more expensive. A more

    inexpensive method was required where a builder/ mason/ stone mason could use cheaper non-uniform

    shaped bricks and stones. And thus someone devised the tuckpointed method, whereby neat straight lines

    were raked out in the freshly laid mortar to create an "illusion" from a distance that the bricks were

    somewhat symetrical and to appear to be made more precisely that the brick or stone that they comprised

    of.

    Thus, the term tuckpointing derives from this earlier yet simpler technique that was used with very uneven

    bricks with a thin line called a "tuck", which was drawn in the flush-faced mortar, but left unfilled, to give

    the impression of well-formed brickwork. So basically early stone masons and bricklayers just made

    straight horizontal and vertical grooves between the brickwork.

    Tuckpointing was then refined to further create the illusion of more precise brick geometries by placing up

    to 1cm of lime putty of matching colour to the brick or stone itself, in order to firstly hide their irregularity,

    faults and any distinctions between the brick or stonework. Then to finish a fine fillet of lime putty (coloured white, red or black) was then pushed onto this base mortar joint to create a contrasting colour to

    the brick or stonework and to the underlying mortar between the joints. So tuckpointing results in a very

    strong distinction between the brickwork.

    It is interesting to note that bricks of this era were largely red clay, kiln fired bricks with origins dating

    back to the Roman Empire when kiln fired bricks were developed for building colonies around the world.

    Brick buildings and houses also began to increase in popularity in the 18th century when brick facades

    came back into fashion due to popular ornate designs of the time.

    Lime Mortars

    Lime mortars are composed of lime and aggregate (sand, small stones rocks etc ) however in different

    ratios than in lime putty. Lime mortar has more sand with less lime. The aggregate or sand can be of a

    courser grade and does not have to be as fine as with tuckpointing purposes.

    Lime has an adhesive property with bricks and stones so it is used as a binding material in masonry works.

    Note: Originally only hydrated or wet lime was available to early builders, dry lime became available

    afterwards.

    Experts in places such as Scotland belonging to Societies for the Protection of Ancient Buildings say that

    lime mortars ideally should have no cement added!!, as cement causes the mortar to become impermeable

  • and does not breathe or move with humidity. Lime being a naturally occuring mineral is flexible and when

    sets is weaker than the surrounding stones or bricks and therefore will move or under worse situations

    crack inside the joints. When cement is added to mortars the cement sets by a chemical reaction which

    results in a hard impervious material which can damage soft stone or brickwork.

    What is Tuckpointing?

    Tuckpointing is the operation of finishing joints in brickwork after the bricklaying has been completed,

    and is a way of using two contrasting colours in the mortar joints of the brickwork with one colour to

    match the bricks themselves with a secondary pointed line pressed ontop as a means of contrast in both

    colour and in lined layout. It is a way to make individual bricks in the brickwork to stand out and to give a

    striking distinguished effect.

    After the bricklaying has been completed, the joints are rough raked with a wall tie or raking tool to a

    depth of 10mm (1cm) during construction. A self coloured mortar (lime mortar) is then placed in the raked

    joints and flushed up. Following this, lime putty is pressed onto the mortar filling with a jointer /

    tuckpointing tool and then finally cut to a uniform size.

    What is lime Putty?

    Lime Putty is a mixture of hydrated lime plus fine sand (Botany sand/fine beach or river sand). The

    mixture is about 50:50 hydrated lime to fine sand. You can add more or less sand or water depending on

    final mix consistency or personal preference.

    Cement should not be added to lime putty as it is unneccesary and leads to impervious material which

    cannot breathe or move and more prone to cracking. If cement or plastizers are added to lime putty then is

    no longer regarded as authentic lime putty. Plastisizers should be avoided as they are not breatheable and

    also form an impervious layer which damages the underlying mortar and does not lend iteself well to

    repointing years down the track. So please stick to the original authentic hydrated lime and sand and you

    cant go wrong.

    How to Tuckpoint?

    (content coming soon)

    Tools required for Tuckpointing

    (coming soon)

    Preparation of Walls

    Dampen down the walls you are tuckpointing sufficiently prior to tuckpointing with lime putty (also read

    below)

    (more content coming soon)

    FAQ's, Tuckpointing Trade Tips

    Can I use Lime based products in very cold weather?

    Note: When using any lime based product such as when tuckpointing or when using lime mortars to lay

    bricks or stonework, or in repair or restoration do not proceed in very cold tempertures such as during frost

    season or when snowing or icy conditions as lime will not cure or set when in very cold climate, this is

  • more of a problem in the northern hemisphere during very cool winter months. In the southern hemisphere

    this is not as much of a problem but something to be aware of.

    How to use Ready-Mix Lime Putty?

    Just open the lid and drain out the top sealant layer of water and then stir putty. Then use as required. No

    mess! Our Ready Mix Tuckpointing Lime Putty will save you alot time and effort. And you dont have to

    use all of it in one go. As long as you add a small amount of water afterwards to cover over the top of the

    lime putty to prevent it from drying out in the atmosphere and then reseal the lid tightly, it is possible to

    store the product for a long time and reuse when required. Our Ready-Mix Lime Putty can be used straight

    away. Some professionals prefer lime putty to sit for a number of weeks prior to use to allow better

    bonding and general infusion of the lime putty into the sand, so please note that aging of our Ready-Mix

    Lime Putty will not be a problem as long as the lime putty is kept covered in a sealant of water.

    Ready-Mix Tuckpointing Lime Putty is available only in standard white natural lime colour. If you desire a

    particular colour to your lime putty in order to match an existing home, then you can add coloured oxides

    to the putty according to your requirement. We also supply colour oxides in red and black. It is best to

    remove a small portion of lime putty into a second container and then add and mix to this small portion a

    small amount of coloured oxide to first see how the colour comes out first, before doing the whole mix.

    Tuckpointed lines are commonly white but they can be various shades red, grey, browns, yellows and

    almond colour.

    Ready-Mix Lime Putty ingredients are suitable for authentic heritage tuckpointing! Our Ready-Mix Lime

    Putty is a mixture of rocklime and fine sand dating back to how it was originally made in the rocklime

    furnaces of 18th century England. It is specifically made to a traditional heritage lime putty mixture dating

    back well over 100 plus years. No plastisizers are added that would ruin the longevity of the lime putty on

    the finished exposed brick and using a traditional mix will enable an existing heritage home or heritage

    building to be repointed properly many, many years down the track and most importantly keep its value

    well into the future.

    Can Ready-Mix Lime Putty be used as a Mortar?

    Yes, our Ready-Mix Lime Putty can be used for tuckpointing lines, and also to repair holes in brick mortar

    in existing heritage brickwork. You do not have to add any ingredients apart from say coloured oxide when

    used as a mortar between the joints, as the Lime Putty by itself is sufficiently suitable to do this purpose,

    but you can add more sand or other aggregate if used as just mortar (not for tuckpointing, as fine sand and

    more lime ratio is required in tuckpointing).

    However you can add a little bit of sand and cement if you choose when used as mortar if structural

    integrity is more critical for very worn or very deep joints or cracks below 10mm deep but not usually for

    surface application as Tuckpointed Joints using Lime Putty are usually 10mm deep. However as mentioned

    elsewhere cement being impermiable prevents buildings breathing and may end up in cracks through brick

    and stone instead of just through the joints as cement is harder or as hard as the material it bonds together.

    Tips on applying Tuckpointing with Lime Putty

    Please remember to dampen down the walls you are tuckpointing sufficiently prior to tuckpointing with

    lime putty to prevent flaking off when curing, as if lime putty is placed onto dry brick mortar /brick walls

    the moisture will be sucked out causing flaking. So it is important that you dampen the walls prior to

    tuckpointing preferably with a damp/wet towel or with a very light hose spray and then dampened down

    with a damp towel, depending on how dry the weather is and what surface area you are doing. The brick

    mortar should not be too wet as to cause the lime putty to run or dissolve but just damp enough to prevent

    the moisture from being sucked out of the lime putty prematurely.

    When applying Lime Putty to a brick wall you can first apply a small amount ontop of a hawk tool or

    straight edge and then transfer using an appropriate Tuckpointing Tool.

  • A Tuckpointer's Straight Edge is then lined up with the tuckpointed line and using a Frenchmen knife,

    which is a knife with a small upturned sharp bent tip the excess Lime Putty is "cut" away from either side

    of the line, so a clean fine line is produced, without rough edges.

    How much Ready-Mix Lime Putty do I require?

    As a general estimate only, each 4L bucket of Ready-Mix Lime Putty should do a minimum of 20 square

    metres of wall. So therefore a 10L bucket of Ready-Mix Lime Putty should do 50 square metres of brick

    wall. This depends on how much you watse and other factors such as brick type, size and shape. But you

    can use ths as a rough estimate.

    If you accidently spill or get lime putty on areas you do not want then you should clean up as soon as

    possible, if left to dry you can use a dilute acid to wash off if any other means is not an option.

    How to removing Lime Putty from Bricks- What happens if I find some insoluble lime scum on my

    bricks? How do I remove this without bleaching the tuckpointed joints?

    Sometimes no matter how good you are you may unknowingly or accidentally spill or drip lime putty onto

    un intentional areas.

    The solution is to use hydrochloric acid and brush it onto the affected brickwork. But you must use a 10%

    concentration only - NOT MORE CONCENTRATED! If you use too strong an acid and it soaks too much

    into the brick it can "burn" the lime mortar and professional tuckpointers have told me that it actually can

    go green. And you may not see affects till as much as 3 weeks later. So please be careful with the amount

    of acid you use. Also it is harmful to hands and eyes so wear gloves and eye protection.

    When applying an acid, scrub on the acid and leave for 5 minutes only.

    Then wash off/scrub off twice with plain water. And wash down wall to remove an acid residue.

    If this does not work, then use hydrated lime over the affected areas overnight and wait till the morning to

    remove with water

    In both cases you will have to re-tuckpoint the affected areas.

    If you are still having trouble getting rid of lime mortar from unwanted areas then another remedy may be

    to use Selley's sugar soap.

    You may want to use masking tape to cover any surrounding tuckpointing from exposure to acid prior to

    acid application, but remember to peel off after washing the walls so it doesn't retain any acid and wash

    without tape.

    Heritage Restorations

    coming soon

    Tuckpointing Trade Schools and Teachers

    There are places where you can go to learn the unique art of tuckpointing.

    In Australia you can do a 2 day or beginners and advanced courses at the Holmesglen Institute of TAFE,

    courses are limited so please phone to book.

    Holmesglen's contact website is www.holmesglen.edu.au

  • The Holmesglen Institute of Technical And Further Education is a tertiary level training institute situated

    in the South-Eastern suburbs of Melbourne, Australia. The course that you will need to find more

    information about is "Tuckpointing & Restoration"

    In the United Kingdom

    A knowledgeable teacher in the UK is Dr Gerard Lynch.

    Dr Gerard Lynch offers bespoke courses in his own workshop for selected and established craftspeople,

    dedicated to the acquisition of historical knowledge and traditional skills.

    His subjects include: Historic forms of Jointing and Pointing, Limes, Lime Mortars, Gauged Brickwork,

    Tuck Pointing, Gauged Arch and Niche Construction, Carved and Cut and Rubbed Brickwork, Geometry.

    Please visit Dr Gerard contact website: www.brickmaster.co.uk/courses.html for more information.

    How Tuckpointing Helps in Restoration

    Content Coming soon

  • Tuckpointing Tools

    Speedex manufactures Tuckpointing Tools of the highest quality and largest range available worldwide.

    All of our Speedex Tuckpointing Tools are manufactured from special wear resistant tool steel, and are

    fully hardened and ground sharp to ensure a perfect edge and long tool life. We have been supplying

    professional tradesmen worldwide for over two decades with tuckpointing tools, aswell as hobbyists and

    those interested in learning this unique trade.

    We call our tools "tuckpointing tools", but these tools are also known by various other names around the

    world such as tuckpointing irons, irons, brick irons, repointers, jointers and brick trowels. They are all used

    for brick restoration purposes in order to make white or coloured tuckpointed lime putty lines between the

    brickwork of heritage homes around the world. These tuckpointed lines enable contrast or symetry or both

    between the brickwork or stone therfore enhancing the beauty, value and old charm to heritage homes

    around the world and thus is a very sort after trade.

    Tuckpointing Tools and Tuckpointing Supplies

    Please click on each of our following speedex tuckpointing tool products listed below for more info

    and how to buy:

    STANDARD TUCKPOINTING TOOLS (FLAT BOTTOMED)

    SQUARE BEADED TUCKPOINTING TOOLS (SQUARE GROOVED-S)

    ROUND BEADED TUCKPOINTING TOOLS (ROUND GROOVED-R)

    STUBNOSE AND LONGNOSE TUCKPOINTING TOOLS

    FRENCHMEN KNIFE'S and DOUBLE FRENCHMEN KNIFE'S

    READY MIX TUCKPOINTING LIME PUTTY in 4L & 10L BUCKETS

    TUCKPOINTER'S STRAIGHT EDGES

    HAWK TOOL

    CAULKING TROWEL

    TUCKPOINTER'S SMALL TOOL

    COLORED OXIDES

    FINE SAND SIEVES

    STONE TUCKPOINTING TOOLS

    ROUNDED CORNER TUCKPOINTING TOOLS

    SPEEDEX TUCKPOINTING TOOLS PRODUCT RANGE

    RAKING TOOLS

    TUCKPOINTING - FACTS & TECHNIQUES

    Other Custom Tuckpointing Tools Available on Request

    (WE NOW ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS OVER PHONE! OUR ONLINE SHOPPING CART IS

    NOW AVAILABLE!)

  • Our Standard Tuckpointing Tools are shown below. Our Standard Tuckpointing Tools have a

    flat base which is ground to a sharp finish and made from hardened quality tools steel so that

    they will last. As you can see below our Standard Tuckpointing Tools come in a wide variety

    of widths to suit any particular requirement that you have. Available in 2 standard lengths

    75mm long and 125mm long and from as little as 1mm wide for very fine tuckpointing and to

    up to 14mm wide for wider stonework or for wider brick joints.

  • Our Round Beaded Tuckpointing Tools are shown below. They are used to leave behind a

    raised "rounded" bead on the tuckpointed lines. Our Round Beaded Tuckpointing Tools are

    available in 2 standard lengths, 75mm and 125mm long and also in a wide variety of widths.

    We also can make deeper rounded beaded tools (not shown here).

  • Our Square Beaded Tuckpointing Tools shown below. They are used to leave behind a raised

    "square" bead on the tuckpointed lime putty lines. They are available in 2 standard lengths

    75mm and 125mm long and also a wide variety of square widths. Please note that when you

    select a "beaded" size we are refering to the width of the round or square "bead or groove"

    not the overall width of the tuckpointing tools which is made slightly wider.

    Our Stubnose and Longnose Tuckpointing Tools are shown below. They are used in areas

    which are difficult to reach or get to such around door jams and around window sills,

    paraphets and any hard to reach ornate brickwork. We have recently brought out the

    "Longnose" for those wishing to have additional reach, but you can decide which tool is most

    suitable for your requirement.

  • Our Stone Tuckpointing Tools are shown below. They have deeper square beads or grooves.

    These Stone Tuckpointing tools have beads that are approximately 12mm wide by 5mm deep,

    which are slightly tapered to allow lime putty to slide out easier. We manufacture them in

    two standard lengths 75mm long and 125mm long. We can manufacture them in various

    depths depending on our customer requests. We have placed the tuckpointing tools in a

    different category under Stone Tuckpointing Tools rather than under square beaded or round

    beaded tuckpoining tools because the groove depth is deeper (3mm, 4mm or 5mm generally).

    We also manuafature deeper round beaded stone tools which we will put on website as soon

    as we have a picture.

  • We supply Ready-Mix Lime Putty in both 4L and 10L buckets shown below. If you want

    convenience and no mess, then you can start tuckpointing straight away as soon as you open

    the Ready-Mix bucket. Our Ready-Mix Lime Putty is made to the authentic heritage

    traditional lime putty mix dating back well over 100 years, so it is perfect for all heritage

    restorations. This is the mix that is used by professionals worldwide since the eighteenth

    century to ensure that the tuckpointing is done right. It does not contain any plastisizers or

    any harmful additives which may damage the breathability of the underlying brick or stone

    wall. Experts recommend using authentic lime putty as moisture is free to permeate through a

    wall as with any primary lime based building material, and therefore the tuckpointed lines

  • will not have a tendency to crack of unintentionally early and will enable a home to be

    repointed successfully well into the future. Please click on our Ready-Mix Lime Putty page

    for more information and tips on using lime putty.

  • We manufacture and supply Frenchmen knives and Double Frenchmen Knives, used to "cut"

    the tuckpointed lines with the aid of a tuckpointer's straight edge:

  • We manufacture and supply Hawk Tools, which are used to place mortar or lime putty on top

    prior to application to a mortar joint / tuckpointed joint:

    We manufacture and supply Tuckpointer's Straight Edges available in 2 standard lengths:

    650mm and 850mm long as shown below. We also can manufacture different non-stock sizes

    upon request.

  • We manufacture and supply Caulking Trowels shown below, for applying / pressing in

    mortar into holes or cracks in the brick face prior to tuckpointing:

  • We also manufacture Raking Tools, available in 10mm and 12mm diameter. Others available

    on request. These tools can be used by bricklayers / tradepeople to rake rounded grooves into

    conventional brick joints.

  • We also manufacture Fine Sand Sieves specially suited for sieving fine river or beach sand

    used to make tuckpointing lime putty. Available in wood or metal construction.

  • We also manufacture Rounded Corner Tuckpointing Tools, which can be used to tuckpoint

    around rounded shaped bricks. A variety of styles and sizes are available upon your particular

    request.

  • For more information on each of these products please go to top of this page and click the individual

    product links. We now have an online shopping cart so you can select products you want and order them

    more conveniently.

    We manufacture and supply the following Tuckpointing Tools and Supplies: (an updated version is shown

    on the following link)

    SPEEDEX TUCKPOINTING TOOLS PRODUCT RANGE

    Speedex Tuckpointing Tools Product Range

    ***All prices in Australian Dollars***

    ***A printer friendly version of our products list will be also available soon***

    **The above products chart is currently being updated, please click on the separate

    SPEEDEX TUCKPOINTING TOOLS PRODUCT RANGE page for the updated version.

    Note: When ordering directly to our contact email address [email protected] please write down

    the item code on the left hand side with quantities and we can then process your order manually via email.

    Otherwise please use our new automatic online shopping cart to place an order and follow the simple

    online instructions to enter in your full delivery address with post codes (very important) and then enter

    your payment details.

    Please note to make online ordering easier and quicker for you via our shoppping cart you can simply

    order as a "Guest" (by clicking on Guest when prompted using our shopping cart instructions) to save you

    from having to register an account and password etc with us.

    Online Shopping Cart

    We now have an Online Shopping Cart to provide greater convenience for all our customers

    who which to purchase online via Paypal. We hope to also offer other non-Paypal payments

  • soon so you can still pay online using your credit card but directly to our Bank rather than via

    Paypal (service coming soon).

    How to use our Online Shopping Cart?

    To help you with using our online shopping cart, please click here for instructions: How to

    use our Online Shopping Cart?

    We accept all credit cards (visa, mastercard and Amex-american express), over the phone and

    in person. Only our online shopping cart via Paypal will accept debit cards and all credit

    cards aswell.

    Our shopping cart automatically calculates shipping prices depending on your shipping

    destination and the type of service you select. But if in doubt please feel welcome to write to

    us, as we are still configuring our online store to run correctly.

    **PLEASE NOTE: the maximum weight per parcel for Australia Post is 22kg and for DHL

    Express is 30kg per parcel weight. If our shopping cart does not give you an automatic

    shipping price (or gives you only option as "pick up from store" without any other shipping

    option) then dont worry your order may be over these weights, in which case please write to

    us directly and we will manually calculate shipping price for you. We are currently working

    on fixing this problem for larger orders so that orders can be automatically split into separate

    parcels and automatic shipping prices calculated using our online shopping cart. But we can

    ship any weight order anywher in the world using a variety of methods.

    Delivery

    You can choose to have your order sent by Australia Post or by DHL Express Worldwide

    door-door couriers by default.

    Local customers delivery : for local customers (within Australia) if your order is up to 3kg

    and fits inside an Express Satchel safely then we will usually send your order in an Express

    Satchel (either 500g or 3kg satchel) which is usually delivered the next business day if you

    are within the right local australian postal zones, basically if you around a capital city then

    delivery is next day (or say 1-2days from payment). If you fall outside the main capital city

    zones then delivery by express satchel may take longer (say approx 3 days from payment).

    For larger orders or orders better suited to be packed in a box, then we generally post them

    using parcel post (via Australia post). Tracking is provided using Parcel Post and we can use

    your Ausralia Post receipt ID number to track your parcel online, but thye dont send

    automatic tracking notifications to your contact email address, we can do this manually via

    their online website. We do not include insurance as default (to keep shipping costs lowest)

    however you can either select this via the shopping cart or let us know and we can include

  • this. Australia post is usually pretty good with orders.We can also deliver parcels via Couriers

    Please (metropolitan areas and limited country areas) and Hunter Express for heavier/larger

    orders (say pallets) etc) but you must write to us for these services.

    International customers delivery: for international customers (outside Australia) you can

    now choose your delivery from

    DHL Express Worldwide

    Registered Post International

    AIRMAIL.

    Airmail: delivery time 3-10 business days, least expensive method than courier. No Tracking

    provided. No Signature on delivery. Service via Australia Post

    Registered Post International: delivery time 3-10 business days. Ideal for sending items less

    than 2kg. Signed delivery at most destinations. Send to post office boxes, metro, rural and

    remote areas. Tracking provided by entering in receipt ID code into Australia post website

    tracking area.

    DHL Express Worldwide: Fastest delivery times for anything urgent! DHL offers delivery

    times of usually within 3 business days to most worldwide destinations and full tracking is

    provided unlike the other services. So throughout UK ,USA, NZ, Ireland, France, Europe etc

    DHL will delivery 2-3 business days in general unless some very remote area. Full tracking is

    provided and provided we have your contact email address we can then get DHL to send

    automatic tracking notifications to your email address, so you can see where your parcel is at

    any time. Usually immediately after an order is booked in with DHL we will send you a

    confirmation email to say your order has been booked in and we give you your DHL tracking

    number. With our online shopping cart this will be done automatically but we may still send

    manual emails to you until we are confident our shopping cart and delivery system works

    properly.

    For larger orders or orders with different packing dimensions it may be worthwhile to write

    to us directly so we can work out how best /cheapest shipping option for you.

    We pack our tools and send them via DHL or Australia Post in either plastic satchels

    (tuckpointing tools and other supplies), Post tubes (generally straight edges and combinations

    of straight edges and tuckpointing tools will fit together in postal tubes, or tubes taped

    strongly together for multiple straight edges or tools), and ofcourse an assortment of boxes

    etc for all types of tuckpointing products.

    If our shopping cart does not automatically work out most efficient delivery method (for

    example know if to use a post tube or satchel or box or combination of items etc or if to better

    go with australia post or DHL etc) you are welcome to write to us for shipping price

    confirmation if there is any doubt. We will write to you if a discrepancy has arisen, so we will

    ensure that the delivery cost is kept to a minimum. If an order is too heavy or over size then

    pallets can be provided or heavier grade boxes used etc.

  • Please note that our online shipping cart and ordering is a very new service offered by our

    business, and as such we will try to ensure that all orders are processed correctly. If for any

    reason we notice an error in shipping prices or an error in delivery information then we will

    let you know as soon as possible via your contact address. We maintain that all shipping

    prices are true and accurate as possible to the best of our abilities and will notify you incase

    of any discrepancy.

    FOR ALL Non Shopping Cart ORDERS: (local and international)

    Besides buying from us directly at our business location or using our online shopping cart, we

    also accept Phone and Internet orders for all our products.

    Please email us at [email protected]

    or

    phone us on: 03 9459 3460 (local customers) or 0061 3 9459 3460 (international customers,

    UK, Ireland, USA, Canada, NZ, France, Europe, etc)

    and please send us, tell us:

    1. Your full name

    2. Your full Delivery Address with post codes (so we can provide an accurate total price for

    postage/shipment of goods).

    3. Description of what tools you require and quantity. You can list individual item product

    codes from our Product Range Chart above, or simply explain what you want in an email to

    us.

    4. Contact phone number now required for delivery & tracking purposes so goods arrive to

    you correctly.

    We will then reply with a Price Quotation/Invoice for total price including delivery. We

    prefer to recieve order emails sent from our customers as it prevents us from mispelling or

    making a mistake writing down email addresses & delivery addresses over the phone which

    prevents us from contacting you. But we also accept phone orders so please alternatively

    phone us (0061) 3 9459 3460 for orders or to make a credit card payment.

    Phone orders welcome

    Payment: We NOW ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS (VISA and Mastercard and AMEX-

    American express) over the phone and through the net. Unfortunately we do not accept debit

    cards over the phone or inperson, but our online shopping cart via Paypal accepts debit cards.

  • We also accept Paypal payments, cash, cheque (for customers we know well), electronic bank

    transfer, international money transfers via bank branches.

    International customers can also use "Paypal" to make payments, as it is safe and easy to use

    and automatically converts currency. How paypal payments work by the manual method is

    that we will firstly send you a price quote/invoice to your email address and then also email

    you a separately a "Request for Payment" via the Paypal website. You just have to follow the

    Paypal links and sign up (which is totally free!) by simply giving an email address and

    making up a password of your choice. Then you follow easy instructions and can fill in your

    credit card/bank details and then make a payment for our tuckpointing tools online. Paypal is

    safe and secure and third parties do not get access to your bank details.

    Please click on How to use our Online Shopping Cart? if you cant work out how to use our

    online shopping cart.

    So if you would like to purchase any of our products please call us, email us or use our online

    shopping cart and we would be happy to help!