Tropical Fish Secrets

The Aquarium It is important that you get the correct aquarium. This is the base of everything. This is the home of your tropical friends. So, it is very important that you take the time and effort necessary to ensure your success. There are many questions that you need to think about before purchasing your aquarium. It is important that you think about what kind of tropical fish you would like, how big they will get when they are full grown, what types of plants you want to put in the aquarium. First, let’s start with what kind of tanks there are out there. There are two kinds of tanks- frame tanks which are made with frames made of anodized aluminum, plastic, or stainless steel and then there are frameless tanks. Both are caulked with silicone rubber. They do not rust even with sea water. Aquariums come in different shapes and sizes and all are suitable for keeping fish. Plastic tanks are just as durable but they do scratch easier than glass. If you are looking for an aquarium without sharp edges and corners, then you are looking for a plastic tank. Some plastic tanks are too thin and therefore the water pressure might cause the walls to belly out. Then all of your efforts will be lost. If you are looking to photograph your fish, then you will want to get a glass aquarium. Plastic tanks will distort the look of your fish. The handling of the tank is also important with plastic tanks to ensure that the surface doesn’t scratch. The main advantage to a plastic tank over a glass one is how it looks. A plastic tank with rounded edges and corners looks amazing in your living room. There are a few different styles of glass aquariums. Molded one-piece tanks are great for breeding and small fish species and also as isolation tanks. I will speak about isolation tanks later and why it is necessary to have one on hand. One –piece tanks are also easy to clean and will hold 5 gallons (20 liters) safely. One issue with molded tanks is the internal stress may cause larger tanks to crack or break. For this reason, it is important to protect your tank for temperature changes. It is also common that the glass walls are not even which makes your fish look distorted. Some people choose to use transparent plastic tanks because they are lighter and less fragile than the glass versions. They are also easier to repair. If a plastic tank should crack for any reason, you can repair it using plastic glue. The price is also another reason why people choose it over the glass tank. IF you are

Tropical Fish Secrets a fish enthusiast, you should have a plastic tank that can be used as isolation tank or that can be used as quarantine. An isolation tank should be 3- 4 gallons (10-15 liters) in capacity. It is also important that it be fully equipped with a heater and a filter. I would recommend that you purchase your isolation tank when you purchase your aquarium. The reason for this is that you can use the isolation tank when you first get your fish and while you are setting up your aquarium. Plastic tanks have there place but due to the fact that they are not scratch resistant, it is better to use them only as a temporary solution to your permanent aquarium. Plastic tanks are great economically and they are narrower at the bottom and can be stacked for better storage. You will see as you expand your love for your aquarium that you will run out of space quickly. Therefore, plastic tanks are definitely an advantage.

What if a relative gives you a tank, how can I fix it so that I can use it??

I am sure everyone knows someone who has tried to build an aquarium and they were unsuccessful and gave up. It could be a neighbour or relative or friend. It is possible that this person will give you there aquarium in hopes that you can be more successful than they were. Okay, so, how do we not make the same mistakes? How do we use what they gave up to start us out for the time being? Most often these aquariums are the old-fashioned frame tank with glass panes cemented to the metal frame. You will need to seal the joints with a silicone rubber. Use only a silicone rubber with an acetic base. Ensure that you seal all joints. Don’t forget to seal the lower edge of the frame that runs along the top of the tank. Remove all the grease with an alcohol or acetone solvent. Okay, you have the silicone rubber, now what do you do with it. You squeeze some of it out and put it in the seams. Smooth it out by using your finger. (Tip: add dishwashing detergent to your finger before you put silicone rubber on it so that it doesn’t stick to your finger.) This will make that tank useable for several years. It will be able to give you some time to figure out what kind of fish you would like, what kinds of plants you would like and how big of an aquarium you will need to have the aquarium of your dreams. The aquarium that your friends will be running over to see.

What your aquarium should be made of and the format Most aquariums, as I am sure that you are aware of, are taller than they are wider. The reason for this is so that they fit in with modern furniture. Another reason is because a taller tank offers a larger viewing surface which will be beneficial when your aquarium is full of beautiful tropical fish. The problem with is this that the larger the floor area, the healthier the inhabitants, both fish and plants. Remember any living organism in the aquarium is an inhabitant. You goal is the build the best aquarium possible that will create a healthy environment for your organisms to thrive in. The larger the floor area the more possibilities that you have to arrange plants, decorate the aquarium. It also allows bottom fish

Tropical Fish Secrets more territory to stake out and the lighting to be more effective than in a tall, narrow aquarium. Remember that once you fill you aquarium with water, it will look shorter and narrower. Until recently, if you wanted an aquarium with a larger floor area you would have to have it custom-built or construct it yourself. Thankfully, manufacturers have realized some of the benefits of a large floor aquarium that they are starting to produce them. This is obviously a cheaper option than you building it yourself or having it custom made. As I mentioned before, it is important when you are setting up your aquarium that you think about what kind of fish you want to put in the tank, what kind of plants, the behavioral patterns of the fish. Be sure not to start with a tank that is too small. A common mistake is that you purchase a tank that is too small for the fish that you want to put in it. IF your tank is too small, it will quickly become overpopulated. Another advantage to a larger tank is the stability of the environment that a larger tank creates. The bigger the tank, the more stable the environment, the more immune the environment will be to mistake that might be made in tank maintenance. The less chances you will have to unexpected surprises. No one wants to come home and find their tropical friend on the top of the tank. I stated before how important it is to think about what kinds of fish you want to put in your aquarium. It is important to remember that large fish tend to be territorial and require more space. Small fish swim in schools of fish in there natural environment. A school of fish is at least seven to ten fish usually of their own kind. They need and want the company. You will need adequate amount of space for the school of fish to swim freely. If you have ever been snorkeling or scuba diving, you will know what a beautiful sight it is to see a school of fish swimming by. Now, imagine that sight being in your own living room. It is only a beautiful sight if they have enough room to swim freely. Now imagine that same school of fish in a crowded tank, it would like a mall at Christmas time. I know what you are thinking, how do I figure out how much space my fish need. A good rule of thumb is estimate the length of the full-grown fish, and multiply each by half an inch ( 1cm) by 1 1/2 to 2 quarts (1 ½- 2 liters). Remember that this only represents the water in the aquarium. It doesn’t include the materials at the bottom of the tank, the plants, or anything that takes up space for that matter. Don’t worry. This is just an estimate. The best advice that I can give you would be to start out with the biggest aquarium that you can afford. Another issue that you are going to have to consider with the aquarium is the weight of the tank once it is filled with water. The weight can be calculated by Capacity in gallons= length X Width X height (in inches) 231

Tropical Fish Secrets One gallon of water weighs 9 pounds. So if your aquarium is 48 X 13 X 21 inches, it holds 55 gallons and weighs about 500 pounds. Add one quarter of the results for the weight of the decorations and plants and anything else that you have at the bottom of the tank. So, once you have all of the pieces that you want in the tank, the tank will probably weigh around 625 pounds. This does not include the stand of the table that the tank is on. It is important to access whether the flooring in your house will be able to hold a tank this weight. If you are thinking of putting a larger aquarium in your house, you should consult with an architect or a builder to determine how much weight your floors can take especially if you are thinking of putting your aquarium on the second floor of you house or apartment. Another thing that will prove to be helpful is a cover. If you have a large aquarium, it will be a pain to take off a cover the size of the tank. The cover should have one or more opening. The purpose of the cover is to keep the dust out to the tank and to keep the fish from jumping out. You will want an opening for the heater or filter tubing and for feeding the fish. You can buy plastic panels that fit your tank exactly and plastic runners for the panels. You can move the panels back and forth. The cover panel might not be air tight but they should never be big enough for a fish to squeeze through. Now, that you have thought about the size of the aquarium and the cover, now we have to think about where we are going to put it. You want to put the aquarium in a place that has a lot of electrical outlets. You should also be sure that the floor is level. If it is slanted, you will have to even it out. It is also important that the stand or table that you put the aquarium on is strong enough to handle the weight and not bend. (Tip: you might want to put Styrofoam or felt under your aquarium because some tanks do develop leaks.) Place the aquarium in a place that allows you to look at it comfortably from where you are sitting.

Water The next thing that is critical to your success is water. Whether you plants and fish live or die will depend on the water in the tank. The quality of the water will determine whether they live or die. Not all water is the same. Water is made up of gases, minerals and organic matter. The organic matter is from decaying leaves and wood and from plants and creatures in the water. There are two gases in water- oxygen and carbon dioxide. These are essential for all living organisms to survive. Fish and plants will absorb oxygen and release carbon dioxide. The number of fish and plants in the aquarium will have an effect on the balance of the water. The balance will need to be naturally maintained or the excess needs to be removed. The water will be hard or soft depending on the minerals that are in it. IF the mineral content is high, then the water will be hard. If the mineral content is low, then it will be soft. You will need to find out what the mineral content of your tap water. How do you find this information??? You can call your local water department or you can measure it yourself. You can use indicator strips or a test kit that you can

Tropical Fish Secrets purchase from your pet shop. In highly populated areas, you water will come from a variety of different areas. Water from different areas will have a different hardness and chemical composition. Due to this, your tap water will change composition. It is necessary to check your water periodically. Okay... you have check the water using the indicator strips or test kits, how do you know whether it is hard or soft. Going forward, the hardness of the water will be expresses as dH. Each degree of dH is 30 milligrams of calcium carbonate per quart (1 litre) of water. 0-4 degree dH = very soft 5-8 degree dH= soft 9-12 degree dH = medium hard 13 degree dH and up = hard water Tropical fish adapt very well to soft water. The soil in their natural environments have little or no calcium. That is the reason that they adapt so well to soft water. East African Cichlids are the only tropical fish that live in medium or hard water. Water hardness varies on the parts of the country. For this reason, it would be wise to check your water hardness and choose fish that will thrive in that environment. You can change the hardness of the water by mixing distilled water with the tap water to get the proper degree of hardness. It might be expensive to do it this way. Rain water is not an option because it is often too polluted. I know what you are thinking.. You are thinking what I do if the water hardness is too hard or I don’t want to have to add distilled water all the time. Well, I have a solution for you. You can buy an ion-exchanger. This is used to remove minerals from the water and will soften the water even purify the water. The type of ion-exchanger that you will need will depend on the hardness of your water. Another way to change the dH in the water is to add fish. There are several fish that you can add to the water depending on what the dH is. If the water is soft, you can get some live-bearing Toothed Carps or large Cichlids from Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika. If you need to harden the water, you will need some gypsum. You can also buy plastic gypsum at the pet store. The acidity of the water is just as important as the minerals. I will express the acidity in terms of pH. Natural water contains certain substances that react in either an alkaline or acidic fashion. Neutral water has a pH of 7. Water below 7 tells you that the water is acidic. Water above 7 is alkaline. For our purposes, most tropical fish need an pH of 5.8 to 7. (East African Cichlids need a pH of 7.5 to 8.5 pH). It is necessary to test your tank for the pH level periodically. You can do this with a test kit or indicator strips. If you water is below 5.5 pH or above 9 pH, your fish will show signs of illness. Tropical fish come from an environment which consists of carbonic acid, carbon dioxide and humic acid. Plants are able to absorb minerals and trace element

Tropical Fish Secrets better in combination with humic acid. Humic acid maintains the acidity better than carbonic acid because carbonic acid fluctuates more with the metabolic action of the plants that are into eh tanks. In their natural habitats, humic acid comes from dead leaves, wood and other plant matter in the water. So, how do we get this in our aquariums? Easy.. you can circulate it through the peat filters or by adding liquid peat extract. Some other factors that affect the water are of course our fish. Fish excrete ammonia. Ammonia can be found in the water from a variety of different sources. Decomposing animal proteins- fish food, dead snails, dead fish, feces and urine all create ammonia in the water. If you over feed your fish, you might be the main reason for high levels of ammonia. The unused food will fall to the bottom of the tank and create ammonia. Ammonia is poisonous even in low amounts. Slightly acidic water will change the water to a less toxic ammonium. Here is a chart that demonstrates the ammonia and ammonium concentrations at different pH levels. pH % Ammonia % Ammonium 6 0 100 7 1 99 8 4 96 9 25 75 As long as the pH stays around 5.8 to 7, you fish will be safe from ammonia poisoning. An aquarium that is not cleaned for some time will have a high amount of debris food and the levels of nitrogen will be high. If you circulate is water through an acid-enhancing filter material such as peat, it will convert to ammonium and your fish will be fine. This is the reason why when you decide to change the water in your tank after a long while, some of your fish die. It is because you have changed the environment and the pH in the aquarium has risen from the tap water. When the ammonium rises, there is a change in the ammonia and the fish die from ammonia poisoning. Long gone are the days where people believe that fish can’t handle the water change. Now, they are devices available to eliminating cloudily debris without the removing water. It is important to know that aged water means the aquarium has plants but no fish for several weeks. Fresh water is tap water that has sat for a while. One kind of fish that is in constant danger of ammonia poisoning is an East African Cichlids. They are used to alkaline the water. They are heavy feeders and plants do not usually survive in their tanks. It is important to use powerful filters and change their water more frequently. How do you know if you fish is suffering from ammonia poisoning?

Tropical Fish Secrets You fish will exhibit symptoms of oxygen deficiency or excessively high levels of carbon dioxide. IF you see your fish coming to the surface often, check your water first before turning up the air pump. The filter changes the ammonia first into nitrite and then into nitrate. Nitrite is highly poisonous and needs to be changed quickly. You should check your nitrite levels every two weeks with a kit. If it is too high, clean your filter and change your water immediately. An easy way to determine whether this is necessary is to smell the water. Nitrite will smell bad. Too much nitrate will harm the plants in the tank and therefore will affect the oxygen and carbon dioxide in the tank. One thing to remember is that our tap water contains more nitrate than the tropical waters. The transformation of ammonia into nitrate uses up a lot of oxygen. The less this occurs the more oxygen that is available to our fish. Because our tap water is really only for human consumption, it is devoid of carbonic acid. Plants provide phosphate, iron and manganese to survive. Our tap water is devoid of these minerals. It is for this reason that it is important to put plants in the tank. They will remove the poisons in the water before you put the fish in it. It ensures the greatest success in your aquarium is to do a dry run with the tank. Set up the tank for two to three weeks. Set up the tank, fill it with water, air pump, and filter etc without the fish in it. This gives the plants a chance to take root and the bacteria can develop which will create a “ good” aquarium environment. I asked you before to think about what kind of fish that you want to put in your tank to determine the size of the tank that you will need. It is also important to think about the natural environment of the fish that you want in terms of the water. Fish from South America which are Neon Tetras, Discus Fish, Angelfish ( Scalares), Armored Corydoreas, and Dwarf Cichlids. Water from the South American region consists of three different types of water- white water, clear water, and black water. White water is cloudy, yellow and clayey. It is soft, as we discussed before is 0.6 to 1.2 dH. And it is slightly acidic pH 6.5 to 6.9. It does have minimum amounts of ammonium and nitrate. Clear water is transparent and yellow to dark olive green in colour. It is extremely soft 0.3 to 0.8 dH and the acid level 4.6 to 6.6 pH. It has hardly any ammonium or nitrate. Black water is transparent and dark brown. It is 0 to 0.1 dH and 3.8 to 5.3 pH with no ammonium or nitrate. There is no distinct division between the three types of water and many fish come from a combination of these waters. Pure black water is not viable for fish to survive in. Central America This water tends to be medium hard to hard and is neutral and slightly alkaloid. The most common fish that are found in this area is Cyprinodonts and live-bearing Toothed Carps.

Tropical Fish Secrets Africa This water is rich in minerals and for that reason egg-laying fish such as Cyprinodonts, Characins and Cichlids are found from this area. They are usually slightly acid water with low mineral content. The hardness is usually 2 dH, and a pH level of 6.5. with no ammonium or nitrate. East African waters are a little harder with 10 dH and pH of 7.5 to 9.2. The most common fish from this area is mouth breeding Cichlids. They can survive in water as hard as 25dH. The most common is 17 dH and a pH of 8.2. Southeast Asia Water in this area is very soft 0.2 to 0.7 dH and it is practically neutral. Danios are common in this area. The average is 0.6 dH and a pH of 6. 0. All of these figures are estimates and are taken at different times and different rivers in theses areas. This does not take into account the natural effects of such things as floods in these areas. This information provides us with some guidelines that will help us set up our aquariums. Remember that these figures will be very important if you are thinking about breeding your tropical friends. If you want to breed you new addition to your living room, it is important to create an environment that is close to their natural inhabitant. If that is not your desire, they will be able to handle harder and more alkaline waters.

Aquarium Equipment and Accessories

When you hear the word tropical fish, what is the first thing that comes to your mind? Temperature of the water. In order to have any results with tropical fish, you will need a heater. The water should be about 73 to 79 degrees (23 -26 degrees Celsius). There are several types of heaters and several ways to heat the tank. An aquarium heater consists of a heating coil inside a glass tube filed with sand. It is regulated using a thermostat. The most common heaters are electric rod-type heaters without thermostats and automatic heaters with built in thermostats. If you buy your heater separately,

Tropical Fish Secrets you will learn that some are made to be placed inside the tank and others need to mounted on the outside of the tank. If you don’t want to see the cords and electrical wires of the heater, you might want to build the heater into the outside filtering equipment. I recommend that you use an automatic temperature heater. I will tell you why. Tropical fish don’t really tolerate changes in their water temperature. It should always stay within 2degree F or (1degree C) of the temperature on the thermostat. In a room that is 68 to 73 degrees, your heating capacity of 0.3 to 0.5 is sufficient. The tank only needs to be heated a few degrees above the room temperature. Remember that the lighting will increase the temperature into the tank. It is important that you check the temperature of the tank. During the warm days it might be necessary for you to turn off the thermometer. Okay so, you go to the pet store to buy a thermometer but which one do you buy. The expense one or the cheaper one. In this case, there are some advantages to the cheaper one. The smaller heater will heat the aquarium slower which will allow the fish to adapt better and if there is a problem with it or goes on the blink. You have more time to intervene. The larger thermometers are usually equipped with a heat sensor with a bimetal contact. It will turn off and on constantly and the contact will get stuck. It is possible that it will refuse to open after some time, making it impossible to control the temperature. We have talked about heating the tank for the fish but there are other living organisms in the tank. Plants also require some care. Tropical plants require a warm environment as well. It is for this reason that you need to heat the bottom of the tank. It is important to keep it on degree centigrade above the water. To do this, you will need to put waterproof heating cables on the bottom of the tank. The best way to distribute the heat is in an S shape and should be mounted on tracks or feet so that there is no contact with the glass or you can also incorporate it with the gravel. Another option is to use a heating pad that is placed directly underneath the aquarium separated by the proper insulation. If the heating pad is too strong, it will damage the bottom of the glass. Another advantage of using the bottom heating method is that the fresh water will constantly be flowing through the bottom. This prevents organic matter from rotting at the bottom of the tank. It also helps bring minerals to the plants in the tank, therefore making the aquarium more stable. Heating pads or cables may be able to heat the aquarium without the aid of another heater inside the tank. For best results, you should have one watt for 10 quarts or litres of water. This will ensure proper circulation and it will pass through the gravel one or twice a day. A dual-circuit thermostat will regulate the bottom as well as regulating the tank on the cold days. It is for this reason that this is the best thermometer to get. IF you are going to use a bottom heat, it is important to remember that you will have to change the gravel every year or two. Although gravel will act as a filter, filters do get clogged and dirty. That is the reason for the gravel change.

Tropical Fish Secrets It is important to get a thermostat that is UL approved for safety. This heater has the least amount of problems associated with it. Some possible problems are an electric shock. You might need to clip a plant and clean the glass. You usually will not be able to tell if the fish got a shock. To ensure that this does not happen, it is recommended that you invest in an electronic safety device. They are used between the outlet and the unit and automatically shut off if there is a malfunction.

Lighting Whether you fish and plants like constant sunlight or thrive in a cycled environment it is important to get proper lighting. Some will suggest that you place your aquarium by the window to get as much daylight as you can. The problem is that you can’t control the sunlight. It is also possible that if you place the aquarium by the window, it will follow the seasons. It is not unlikely that you will experience some green algae and turn the water opaque and the plants may wither because it is too dark for them in the winter. Animals and plants are living organisms and they have their own internal clock that determines their daily behavior as well as their seasonal behavior. You have to remember that you are trying to create an environment that is closest to their natural inhabitant. The other area where the element of lighting is important is when you are thinking about breeding. Some species will spawn after sunrise and some will be after dusk. The growth of the plants and fish is based on the length of the day. The length of the day is usually determined by the amount of daylight that they receive. It is important to create an environment that fosters the most growth. Fish that are naturally from areas close to the equator are used to 12 hours of sunlight. To create an environment that is close to their natural inhabit, I advise that you have the aquarium lit for 12- 14 hours a day. I would also advise that you purchase a timer that will turn the lights on automatically. The intensity is also important to keep in mind with regards to your tank. The tank needs the lighting to be supplied for the plants and the fish in the tank. You want the lighting to resemble natural daylight. Your fish will need less light than your plants. Water will also act as a light filter. Smaller plants are more affected by the source of light than the larger plants. Larger plants are closer to the light source. How do you know how much light you need? A good rule of thumb is 0.4 to 0.7 watts per quart (litre) of water. An example is if you aquarium is 48X 12 X 21, your lamp should be about 80 to 140 watts. One thing that is common in the tropics is algae. It is for this reason that you should add algae eating fish immediately. The most common algae eating fish are Siamese Flying Fox, the Sphnenops Molly, and some kind of Bristle- Nose or Chinese Algae- Eater.

Tropical Fish Secrets It is hard to determine what the exact lighting for the fish is. The advantage to having a well planted aquarium is that if it is too bright for you fish, they can find shade among the plants. The more natural the lighting is to sunlight the more natural the fish and plants will appear. The color of the light varies depending on the time of day. How does that affect your aquarium? Well, the different colours of light encourage different things. Red light which occurs in the morning or the evening encourages vertical growth. Blue light which occurs in the midday fosters the sturdiness of the plants. For these reasons, it is important that you supply your aquarium with both sources of light. Most tanks use fluorescent tubes because light bulbs are too expensive and generally give off too much heat. Fluorescent tubes are also used because you can vary the types of tubes that you use. The variations will provide different coloured lights that will give your aquarium a good mixture for both the fish and the plants. An aquarium should have a combination of warm and cold tone lights. Warm tones tend to use the red end of the spectrum and cold tones tend to use the blue end. White lights will give you a range of the spectrum. (Tip: Grow lights tend to change the look of your fish). If you are going to use grow lights, they should not be used in the first three to six months because they cause algae to form. It is important to note that fluorescent lights will lose half their power within six months. You should replace your lights every 6 months. Most lights have reflectors that will increase the light intensity. If this is not the case, then you can line your cover with foil. This will give you the same effect. Ask your retailer for fluorescent tubes with reflective coating. The light will be more efficient if you clean the cover every week. Mineral deposit and algae will build up on the cover making your fluorescent lights ineffective. It is ideal if you can hang the fluorescent lighting above the tank. They will then not heat the aquarium and they are out of splashing range. It is also easier to clean, catch fish and empty the tank if there are no lights attached to it. IF you have to move the lights to do anything in the tank, you might not be able to see what you need to do in the tank. A good distance between the lights and the cover is 4 inches or 10 cm. Then if you need to do work in the tank, you can raise them. Another type of lighting that has become popular recently is mercury vapor lights. They are usually suspended over the aquarium and they have been quite successful. This type of lighting should only be used in tanks that are 20 inches or higher. They tend to last longer than fluorescent lights and they are still 80% of their original capacity after 2 years of use. They are also at full intensity after about 5 minutes. This mimicks the natural sunrise and may be easier on the occupants of the aquarium. It is not uncommon that plants under this form of lighting will grow quite quickly and will require you to cut them back. I recommend that you plant the back and the side with dense plants and leave the top open. In this case, you may not need to cover the dense area of plants. Fish hardly ever jump where there are dense plants.

Tropical Fish Secrets In addition to the lighting, the filter is an important aspect of your aquarium. It is the filer that will remove leftover food, fish feces and decaying plant material. A filter will improve the quality of the water and make it look cleaner. Remember that water with some debris is far less harmful than crystal clear water over loaded with waste products. Most filters are placed inside the tank and can be used for small aquariums or your breeding or quarantine tank. There are also larger filters can be used if you do not want to use an outside filter. Inside filters can be hidden by the plants without any damage to their functioning. One drawback of an inside filter is that cleaning the filter may disrupt the inhabitants of the tank. Most inside filters come with an air pump. Some new model come equipped with cassettes of filter material so that you don’t have to take the entire filter out of the water. Outside filter are used when you don’t want to clutter the inside to of the tank. They can be mounded behind the tank or put lower in a cabinet out of sight. It is for this reason that outside filters are generally bigger. Small outside pumps are run by air pumps and large ones are usually run with water pumps. These types of filters create a strong current and clean the water. They work best for tanks that are 30 inches or 80 cm. Outside filters are also better for aquariums that are highly populated. There are three types of filters- biological slow filters, under gravel and mechanical fast filters. Biological slow filters break down the bacteria and algae in the tank after two weeks. The organisms will break down the waste products. Remember that bacteria needs oxygen to survive. Many filters will only filter the first 2-4 inches. It is best to use a filter that passes through 2 inches thick with a large surface. Under-gravel filters are also good. The water is pumped underneath and grated on the bottom of the aquarium. Bottom heating causes the water to flow up through the gravel. You filter should be large enough that the water flows through it every hour. Remember that the efficiency can drop by 50 %. This is important to remember when you are purchasing a filter. Mechanical fast filters are water pumps with small filter that will remove large particles or debris in floating water. They are good for heavily populated tanks. They are no substitute for slow filters or for regular tank upkeep. The filter does require some maintenance. It needs to be washed and replaced frequently. If you do not do the general upkeep, bacteria will form on the filter and it will slow down the filtering system. This defeats the purpose of the filter. There are two reasons for the filter. One is to alter the water and the other is to remove harmful substances from the water. Gravel is a house for bacteria. Polyester fiber takes small particles out of the water. Charcoal draws toxic substances from the water. Substances will soon break down in a charcoal filter. Due to this charcoal filters need to be changed more frequently. You will need to change them every 3-4 days. It is good to keep charcoal on hand. It is a good

Tropical Fish Secrets idea when you first set up your tank to filter the water through the charcoal which will help to remove harmful substances. Okay, so we have talked about the kinds of filter and but how do we take care of filters. How often you need to clean the filter will depend of a lot of factors. It depends on the filter itself, the quality of your water, the size and number of fish in the tank, and the type of food that you feed them. If you are using a biological filter, it will take 2-3 months before they are 100% effective. If your tank is overcrowded or your fish are overfed, your filter will need to be cleaned frequently. Mechanical filters need to be changed as soon as the water gets slimy or the flow of the water is reduced. Charcoal should be cleaned every 3-4 days. (Tip: wash your filter in cold or lukewarm water. Hot water kills bacteria). If the pump stops, it could be due to the filter. In the case, take out the filter and clean it thoroughly. Bacteria will die in oxygen. It is important to that if you do not clean your filter in the tank, you fish may die within a short time after cleaning. It is important to note that filters are not a substitute for cleaning the tank. It is still important to clean the tank regularly. All healthy aquariums have plants in them. Don’t underestimate the contribution of plants in your tank. Remember that the purposes for filters are not just to keep the water clean but to keep the water moving. In a tank with no filters or aeration, the bacteria forms quickly which creates more carbon dioxide and can suffocate the fish. For this reason, it is quite important to get rid of the carbon dioxide. One way that is quite effective is to install the filter so that the outlets are at water surface. This will allow the water to have contact with the air which gives off carbon dioxide and the oxygen is then carried into the aquarium. You filter can also be run on an air pump. The air will run through the stones in the filter. This will create a larger exchange for gases between the water and the air. Air stones should be changed every 3- 4 months because they will clog and start to discharge large bubbles. Larger bubbles will cause the pump to work harder. Arrange the air stone and the filter outlets so that there are no warm or cool spots. The best way to determine how the water moves in your tank is to sprinkle a bit of peat on the water. This will tell you the changes that you need to make in the tank. Tip: the more plants that you have in the tank the more carbon dioxide they will take on. I would recommend that your tank resemble a botanical underwater garden with the fish being used to highlight the garden. Most people do the opposite. What happens in that case is that the tank is overcrowded with fish and the plants because covered with algae and barely survive. You also need to have a strong aeration then in the tank to support the fish and the plants and to get rid of the excess carbon dioxide that is produced. Okay.. so, we have discussed the equipment that you will need. I know what you are thinking. Is that it? Is that all I need? NO, you will need a few more things before you can set up the tank.

Tropical Fish Secrets You will need a thermometer. You can ones that have suction cups so, you can put them on the wall or you can put them at the bottom of the tank in the gravel. The choice is yours. You will also need attachments for your filter and aeration system. The air is moved through plastic tubes. It is necessary to attach clamps and valves to regulate the flow. The items should be made of plastic not metal. The metal could be poisonous to the fish. I would also recommend that you invest in tubiflex strainers and feeding rings. You install them in the corner of the aquarium and they are used to prevent dry food from spreading throughout the tank. You will need a fish net to catch your fish coming cleaning time. Get a big net. The smaller nets will require you to chase your fish more and will cause more disruptions to the rest of the tank. You can also use a glass trap. This creates less disturbance and the fish are not able to see you coming behind them. They will know something is behind them but they will not be able to determine what that is. Plant tongs are also useful. They will come in handy when you need to thin out the plants or remove dead debris from them. You will also need a hose about 5 feet by ½ inch in diameter. If you have tested your tap water and it is suitable for your tank, you will want a hose that is long enough to reach from your tank to the sink. Depending on the size of your tank, the larger the tank, the easier it is to fill using the tap. It is a pain in the butt to carry large buckets throughout the house to fill up the tank… You will also need 2 buckets. Be sure to mark them for tank use only. It is important that they are not used for anything else. Even the smallest amount of soap or detergent will be harmful to your fish. A bucket with a spout is your best bet. The front panel of the tank should be cleaned using a window wiper. Preferably with felt or razor edge. Brass with scratch the surface. IF you are planning to photograph your fish, this will not be in your best interest. Most algae will be able to be wiped off with the foam rubber side. The rougher side of the wiper will remove the calcium and the tougher algae. Other option is a wiper with a magnet. The magnet is placed inside the tank and will clean as it moves. It is important to note if you are going to use household utensils to clean the tank. Remember to place them in hot water for a few hours. IF they still smell of plastic after that, they are not acceptable for aquarium use. Plastic utensils give off a toxic substance which will be harmful to your fish. Once you have installed all the equipment, you are ready to decorate the tank.

Setting Up and Decorating the Aquarium The back wall It is not necessary to decorate the back wall but some fish might feel safer if it is protected. The aquarium will also appear more peaceful and deeper if the back it covered. The easiest thing to do is to paint it back or grey. You can make a backdrop behind it and mount it behind the aquarium. Remember that the back wall will get covered with algae and the decorations may vanish out of sight after

Tropical Fish Secrets a while. You want to keep in mind that some surfaces will increase the amount of algae and will provide a hiding place for the less aggressive fish and newly hatched fish. You can remove the back wall all together and build a natural backdrop out of rocks and sand. Do not use cement if you are going to do this. Cement is poisonous to the fish. You can use epoxy which will stick eth rocks together. It will look natural and assembled. You can pour the sand over the rocks to make them look more natural. Another option is to buy back walls. They are made of polyurethane and they are quite light. They are glued or taped to the tank until they have soaked up enough water. They are sold in thick sheets so you can shape them the way you want and there is no space between the glass and the sheets. This is good because no fish can get caught between them. Floor covering and rocks The bottom of the tank should no have any calcium. Calcium makes the water harder. You can buy gravel of different coarseness. Finer sand is good for circulation. Coarser gravel allows for more debris and is harder to siphone off. The bottom should be 2 or 3 inches thick. For smaller tanks, you can buy gravel at the pet store. Be sure to rise off the gravel before you put it in the tank. Be sure to rinse the gravel until the water is clear in the bucket. For larger tanks, you will have to go to a builder’s supply. This is the cheapest way to get 100 pounds or more of quartz gavel. The disadvantage with quartz gavel is that it is light in colour and it reflects the light. Most fish like dim light. You could mix darker gravel with the quartz gavel. IF you are thinking of adding rocks to your tank, you will want calcium free rocks such as igneous rocks, granite, gabbro or basalt. Most slate is usually safe. Sediment rocks may or not be calcium free. Be sure to check before you introduce it to the aquarium. Limestone, such as marble, is never good for your tank or aquarium. Red and brown lava are great to decorate the bottom of the tank. The look of the aquarium will amaze you if your tank has a black back drop with reddish sand and lava rocks set of with plants and colourful fish. Remember to scrub the rocks thoroughly before you put them in your tank. If you want to put in rocks that you have collected, be sure to test whether they are calcium free or not. How do you know?? IF you drop a bit of hydrochloric acid on the rock and bubbles form, then there is calcium. You will want to arrange the tank with shallowness at the front and deepness at the back. The shallowness will allow people to see into the tank easier. Terraces on the bottom make the tank look better but remember that if you do this with a variety of colours, they will not stay in place long due to the motion of the water. Flagstones work better if you are looking to create this effect. If you want strong and healthy plants, you will have to add fertilizer to the bottom gravel. This is the time to do it. Other decorative Materials You can buy tree roots and driftwood at the pet store. You will want wood that has nothing left on it to rot. The wood should be boiled in water until it becomes

Tropical Fish Secrets saturated and does not float. Tree roots are good for fish that want to hide. Fish with suction mouths will hang off the driftwood pieces. Coconuts shells are enjoyable for cave-dwelling fish but remember to boil them in hot water as well. IF you were thinking of flower pots, you will need to soak them for a day in 2 gallons of water and peat. Old clay pots do not need to soak. The best advice I can give you is to fit the decorations of the tank, to the needs of the fish. This will enhance your tank. This is another reason why at the beginning I suggested that you know what kind of fish you want to put in your tank. The behaviour of your fish will dictcate how you arrange your tank. If they are territorial, you may want to build some partitions. In an open aquarium, the big fish will soon terrorize the small fish. If you fish swim in schools, you will want a large area for them to swim and the decorations should be at the back of the aquarium. Scarlares need driftwood to hide behind whereas bottom fish like to dwell among the rocks. Labyrinth fish like floating plants to build their nests in. Remember that the look of the tank will depend on how you decorate it. A dramatic contrast will not only catch the eye of anyone passing by the tank but will also provide an environment for a variety of different fish. Filling the tank with water once you have decorated, you can fill the tank with water. If you want plants, fill the tank one third full before you plant. This will prevent leaves and stems from drying out. Be sure to add fertilizer for your plants and not to pour in the water that it stirs up the gravel. You will want to fill the tank slowly. It is best if you fill it with a bucket or a watering can. You can then control the rate that the water comes in. IF you are going to use the faucet, be sure that you don’t do anything else. Tanks can fill quickly. You don’t want a big mess on the floor that could have been prevented. So you want to put plants in the aquarium. Where do you start????? Most plants are flowering plants with roots, stems, leaves and blossoms with the expectation of ferns and moss. Plants from still waters are more delicate. Plants from moving water are more robust. Remember that the slightest dehydration will cause them to wither. In order for them to live, they need oxygen continuously. They will produce carbon dioxide. Just a quick reminder from your Grade 9 Science class, they need a phonsynthetic nutrition which consists of energy from sunlight and chlorophyll, they absorb water and minerals and carbon dioxide. They turn them into sugar which is converted to starches and cellulose. If plants have enough sunlight and carbon dioxide, they will produce more oxygen than they need. If it is dark and insufficient lighting, the plants will compete with the fish for oxygen. Water plants such as Egeria Densa can really only live underwater. The roots serve more for holding onto the ground than to absorb nutrients. It is not uncommon that they dispense their roots and just float in the water. They are extremely thin and the nutrients can be absorbed from the water directly by the leaves.

Tropical Fish Secrets Swamp plants will adapt to change much easier. The most common plant is Nomaphila stricta. They are able to grow beyond the water surface. These plants will nourish themselves mostly through roots and the leaves. The leaves above the water will be tougher than the leaves under the water. Plants provide food, refuges, territorial borders and spawning grounds. In addition to these, they also improve the water quality and absorb harmful nitrogen compounds. They also keep the bottom of the tank from rotting because they give off oxygen. They might be a bit of work but the benefits that you will receive will far out weigh the effort that they require. When you are selecting your plants, it is important to know what kinds of plants will foster in the environment that you have created. You need to take the same things into consideration for your plants that you would take for your fish. Water is the most important. You should know what plants do well in hard or soft water and what temperature they will thrive best in. When you bring your plants home, they will be in wet paper so that they don’t dry out. You will want to place them in a bowl and cover them with newspaper. The newspaper will soak up the water and keep the leaves out of the wet water. You will want to disinfect your plants. You can do this by putting them light purple solution of potassium permanganate or water with 1 teaspoon of alum per quart of water. Leave the plants in the solution for 10 minutes. Remove all the injured, wilted or damaged leaves. Healthy leaves are light in colour and snap off when bent. Dead ones are brown and limp. Take a pair of scissors and trim the roots by one-third to one-half. This will stimulate growth. Be careful not to bruise them. Now you are ready to plant them. Poke a hole in the bottom of the material and place the roots as deep as you can facing downwards. Fill the hole in and place the sand gently around the plant. Now pull up the plant so that the crown of the plant is barely visible. This will hold the plant in place as it grows. You will need to know how your plant will grow to have the best results. For example, Cryptocoryne plants and Valisneria spiralis roots grow straight down and need to be planted in a deep, narrow hole. Acorus genus have creeping roots and should be planted on a slant. Microsorium pteropus and other ferns need to be planted deep enough to show the green root top. You can also tie you these plants to rocks or clay where they will set their roots. Egeria and Cabombia and Nomaphila sprout roots at the stem nodes. Hold them down with stones or glass clamps until they have grown roots. It is important not to crowd the plants. The distance between them will depend on their size. Top rooting plants should be spaced wider than deep rooting plants. In a large tank, it would be helpful to make a diagram of the tank as you see it. This will help you in your planning stages. The largest plants belong in the back and the front should have low ground cover plants. Plants should be arranged in the same kind rather than mixing different types of plants. They should also be planted in clusters or groups. Red and brown plants show up

Tropical Fish Secrets nicely against green ones and light green against dark green. You should put the larger growing plants at the end that receives more light. Fine-leafed plants require a lot of light. You will be able to remove leaves that are infected with algae without is showing up in the overall look of the tank. You will need to provide you plants with some type of fertilizer. There are a few types of fertilizers- liquid and tablets. The tablets are pressed into the bottom material near the plants. How often you need to fertilize will depend on what product you use. You will also need to change the water when you are fertilizing or your plants will refuse to grow. This is because the fertilizer has different nutrients that are used up at different rates. If you use the same water, the nutrients might be too highly concentrated and will end up dieing. If you thought about your plants when you set up the aquarium, you can use a time-released fertilizer in the bottom of the gravel. You should also put heating cables so that the water flows steadily. If you have done this, you will only need to add a liquid fertilizer periodically. For plants like Crypotocryne, you will have to add iron. Some just add a paper clip to the filter. Iron is definitely necessary when you are dealing with tropical plants. The most important nutrient is carbon dioxide. If there is not enough carbon dioxide in the water, your plants will not survive. A safe way to add carbon dioxide is to use pressurized bottles that are electronically controlled and give off steady amounts of carbon dioxide. Problems with Plants There are some problems that can arise. You should check your plants from time to time. New shoots or bud mean that there is growth. Hole and dents are usually from fish nibbling on them. If you plants lose colour or fray and become transparent that is entirely different. If the plants turn yellow and then glassy, that is an iron deficiency. Just add iron or a complete fertilizer. Yellow leaves with green veins indicate a deficiency in trace elements especially manganese. This could be due to overfeeding. Brown and black discoloration is caused by overfeeding with iron. Some plants are able to draw carbon dioxide out of the water and some can’t. That is why you can not have both types of plants in the same tank. If the pH of the water rises above 9 or 10, the water becomes acidic and the fish may die from alkaline toxicity. The most common disease that plants get is called Cryptocoryne rot. It looks like the leaves have holes from nibbling but within a few days; the plants will collapse and rot. It is causes by excess nitrates. The excess nitrate cause toxic compounds and the plants die. This is due to long overdue change in the water, the replacement of an old, worn-out fluorescent tube, and infrequent addition of fertilizer. These can be easily prevented. Keep the environment constant. The nitrate can be kept low by regular water changes. Add a well-balanced fertilizer after the

Tropical Fish Secrets water is changed. Replace the fluorescent lights regularly so that they are not subjected to changes in the lighting.

Algae There are always some algae present in your tank. As soon as the environment in the tank changes, algae will thrive. Blue-green algae is the oldest form of algae. They form a dense blue-green, violet or brownish-black layer on the bottom. They will also be on the plants, rocks, etc. You can strip them off with your hand or siphon them off. It is important to get it all off the surface because they will continue to thrive as long as there is a trace of it present. Red algae look like dirty-green threads or beards from plants, wood and rocks. They are just as persistent as blue-green algae. The good news is that Simese Flyng Fox enjoy eating this kind of algae. Brown algae and gravel algae grow into a thin brown layer. This is usually caused by not enough light and oxygen. Just add more light and they will go away. The plants will produce enough nutrients once the light is introduced. Green algae will be light green and will float in the aquarium and make it opaque. It will sometimes appear in newly set up aquariums when the fish are overfed. It will vanish in a few days or you can introduce water fleas. Green algae only exists in tanks that are clean and well fertilized so, they are a good sign. The algae can be removed by hand or you can siphon it off. The drawback of them is they create webs around the plants which will decrease the amount of light the plants get. If you are going to remove them by hand, be sure not to pull out the plants. Some fish do like to eat the algae but it will grow faster than the fish can eat. You may need a chemical killer. Follow the directions when you are using these products. The easiest way to prevent algae is to ensure enough plants in the tank in the beginning. In a sparsely planted tank, algae will grow. Start out with a lot of inexpensive plants and replace them as you go a long. This will ensure that you don’t have an algae problem. Snails Snails will eat the leftover food that t the fish refuse to eat. You will rarely have to purchase these because you will find snail eggs usually on the leaves of your plants or they will get in with live food. In warm water tanks, there are three kinds of snails. Ramshorn snails are found in most tanks. They will not damage plants unless they are in large numbers. Cabombia aquatica are sometimes subject to their attacks. Malayan snails live in the bottom of the tank. They only emerge at night. During the day, they will hide in the gravel. They do not eat plants but they will dig in the bottom of the gravel and can cause some rotting at the bottom of the aquarium. The South American will grow almost the size of escargots. They eat fish food and plants. If there is enough food, they will not harm the plants tin the tank. They are rare to be found in pet stores. In rare cases, you might add mud snails. Mud snails or Limnaea stagnalis will feed on plants and may carry some

Tropical Fish Secrets diseases. If you find that your tank is being taken over by snails, put a scalded lettuce leaf in the tank. The snails will collect on it. You can then remove it from the tank. If you do this once a week or once a month, you will be able to hold them in check. Tip: Puffer Fish and large Cichlids like to eat snails that you collect. The positive thing that snails bring is that they are a good indicator of the water quality in the tank. If they move around actively on the bottom and eat clear through the algae, you have nothing wrong with the water in the tank. If they lie there, then there are some toxic substances in the water. If Malyayan snails remain above the surface during the day, it means that the bottom is rotting. If snails die off in a short period of time, it is time to do a chemical analysis of the aquarium water.

Types of fish

Catfish:

Tropical Fish Secrets Common Name/s: Asian Stone Catfish, Asian Moth Catfish Scientific Name: Hara jerdoni Origin: Asia (specifically India and Bangladesh) Natural Environment: Slow moving streams with sandy bottoms. Size: under 1/2in or 3.8cm pH: 6-8 Temperature: 68-75 F or 18-24 C Diet: Bloodworms (prefers live, but will take frozen), sinking catfish pellets, algae wafers. Temperament: Extremely reclusive and shy... hides during the day and comes out at night to search for food. Tank Requirements: Although it is very small, the Hara jerdoni requires extremely stable water parameters. IMO, a 10g is a good minimum size for these catfish. They are also very social animals, so they prefer to be in groups. Sand is best for substrate, but other small grained substrates will work just as well. Driftwood is a big plus for these catfish because they love clinging on to the underside during the day. Anostomus Anostomus Striped Anostomus or Striped Headstander Common Name: Bandit Cory Other Common Name: Masked corydoras Scientific Name: Corydoras metae Family: Callichthyidae Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm) Origin: Colombia Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm) Social: Peaceful Lifespan: 5 years Tank Level: Bottom dweller Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon Diet: Omnivore, eats most foods Breeding: Egg layer Care: Easy to Intermediate Temperature: 72-79 F(22-26 C) Common Names: Banjo Catfish, Guitarrita (meaning ‘little guitar’) Scientific Name: Bunocephalus coracoideus Family: Bunocephalinae Origin: Peru (also found in Brazil and Bolivia) Max Size: 15cm / 6” Care: Very easy to look after fish, needs a min. of 15G though very inactive. Not too fussed about water parameters. Recommended would be pH between 6.0 & 8.0 with a temperature of around 26C. Peaceful with all tank mates, though will eat fry. Sand bottom is preferred in their aquarium, seeing as they hide throughout the day by burrowing themselves underneath the sand. Not too

Tropical Fish Secrets densely planted, as they can and will uproot plants. Feeding: Easy feeders usually, will only feed after lights go off. Variety of bloodworms, krill and other types of meaty food is recommended, though catfish pellets are often accepted as well. I’ve actually caught mine eat flakes once in a while. Sexing: No real difference, but said that female banjo cats have a slightly rounder stomach, are larger and tend to be darker in colouration. None of this is fact, just peoples opinions based on their experience. Breeding: It is said that banjo cats breed in groups and will lay between 3000 and 5000 eggs overnight. These eggs will be placed in a place where they feel comfortable, often under flat surfaced rocks (like slate) or underneath plant leaves. Eggs should hatch after approximately 3 days; fry can be fed on usual fry foods like baby brine shrimp and grindal worms. Comments: If you want a fish that is out and about and easy to see this is not the fish for you. Being nocturnal fish, they hide in the sand all day long (you’re lucky to spot their gills) and will come out for food at night. In the 6 months I’ve had mine now, even with moonlight on only I’ve only ever seen them swim once. Though these fish do well in community tanks, it’s not recommended to put them in with aggressive feeders. Banjo cats themselves are very ‘slow’ feeders and are not likely to catch enough food when all is eaten within minutes. Feeding should also occur after the lights go off. For anyone who considers getting banjo catfish, I advice you check up on their stomach once every 3 or 4 days (at least for the first weeks) to make sure they get enough food and don’t starve to death. Common Name/s: Bristlenose Catfish Scientific Name: Ancistrus dolichopterus Origin: Amazon River, South America Maximum Size: 4.5" (12cm) Care: Bristelnose catfish are not a strictly nocturnal fish. These algae eaters establish territories around caves, pieces of wood and other hiding places found in tanks. These fish can become territorial and aggressive towards other members of the ancistrus family and rarely towards bottom dwelling fish such as corydoras catfish. They can tolerate a wide range conditions but generally prefer soft, acidic water which matches the conditions they are suited to in the wild. It is thought that these fish rasp on wood, so having a piece or two of bogwood or driftwood would be ideal. Feeding: These fish eat algae which form on the tank glass, decorations and gravel, but their diet must be supplemented with meaty foods such as frozen bloodworms, vegetables such as zucchini and cucumber and sinking pallets. Sexing and Breeding: An easy fish to breed. They mature at around 3" - 4" these fish can be easily sexed by the amount of bristles on their nose, males have a lot of bristles whereas the females have small amount. These fish breed in the males cave; orange eggs are laid by the female and protected by the male, who may not be seen for days, until the eggs hatch. Once the eggs have hatched the male will try keep them together in a group, inside his cave, but the fry will

Tropical Fish Secrets slowly become escape and enter the tank. Feed the fry small foods. Comments: A lovely catfish which is kept by both new and experienced fish keepers. It is a common fish and is almost always available. Common Name: Bronze Cory, Albino Cory (for the albino variety) Scientific Name: Corydoras Aeneus Origin: Trinidad (from Planet Catfish) Average size: 3 inches Care: These cute critters couldn't be easier to look after. All they really need is good water (as with any fish), somewhere to hide and food. Oh yes, and other cories, as they like to be in groups of 6+. Bronze cories also come in albino, and are one of the few readily available albinos on the market. They are very peaceful fish, and will never nip any other fish. They can also be kept in cooler water, providing they are properly acclimatized (as most you find are kept in tropical conditions). Not to fussy about water prams, and are a fairly hardy beginners fish. Feeding: As with most cories, anything. Suggested foods include- flakes, algae pellets/wafers, bloodworm, cucumber, courgette. Just make sure the food actually reaches the bottom. Sexing and Breeding: Sexing- Females are larger than the males, and grow larger as they become full of eggs. There is also a difference in the fins, but this is less reliable as you cannot always see the fins. Breeding- Generally easy to breed. Basically- 1. Condition the cories for about a week with live food until the females are laden with eggs. 2. Do a 20 ish percent water change on the tank with cooler water. 3. Leave them. The cories *should* go into spawning behaviour, which involves the T position. The eggs are laid on the sides of the tank, the floor... Anywhere really. After the fry hatch, feed on MW, BBS, Liquifry, or whatever, until big enough to take flake. Viola! Your own baby cories. For a detailed account, check the profile on other cories. Common Name/s: Clown Pleco Scientific name: Panaque maccus Origin: Orinoco Basin (Venezuela), Rio Las Marinas (Venezuela) and Colombian Llanos. Variants of the species have also been found in Amazon Basin of Brazil. Maximum Size: 5" (8cm) Care: If you want to see your fish on a daily, weekly, or even monthly basis the clown pleco probably is not for you. The Clown Pleco is found in root structures on the banks and river beds of its habitat. Where, due to its coloration, it is difficult to find. The Clown is a wood eater, so bogwood is a must. It is territorial and will stake a claim to areas at the base of its favorite driftwood or a near by cave, but they do prefer to be kept in groups so a tank large enough for them to have their own territories is best. At feeding times the Clown pleco will defend its

Tropical Fish Secrets food and territory like mad, chasing away any intruders. Also keep an eye on the nitrate levels in the tank and keep them low. I would suggest a minimum tank size of 25 gallons which can house 2-3 specimens; this will allow each specimen a separate territory. As they are not quarrelsome they may be kept with most fish species, however, beware that some individual fish have been known to show aggression towards smaller species. Feeding: Wood is required and, in addition, vegetables (zucchini, cucumbers, etc.) are needed. Sinking pellets as well as algae wafers should also be fed to this fish. The clown pleco will NOT clean your tank of algae for you so do not get this fish if you want an algae eater. Sexing and Breeding: Unknown. The sexes are virtually impossible to distinguish. Comments: The clown pleco has become popular with hobbyists over the last few years, because of low prices and its small size. Unfortunately many people confuse the needs and behavior of this fish with that of many other members of the pleco family. It is a hardy, easy to care for fish. This fish is peaceful, but do NOT buy it as an algae eater. Common Name/s: None Scientific Name: Corydoras leucomelas Origin: Yarinacocha, cutoff lake at right bank of Rio Pacaya, Loreto, Peru (From planet catfish) Maximum Size: 2” Temperature: 25 - 30 C PH: 5.6 - 7 Feeding: Flake food, sinking wafers, and most Live/Frozen. I’ve found Bloodworms, Brine Shrimp to be some of their favorites and, what fish wouldn't turn their nose away from them. Sexing: As with most cory's the female of a species grows a little fuller and longer in the body than males. (To be updated as soon as I have more info) Breeding: The same as with most cory's. (To be updated as soon as I have more info) Comments: From what I have noticed from mine they are very peaceful fish and, full of caricature. Well suited for a community tank. Common Name: None. Scientific Name: Corydoras Undulatus Origin: South America Average size: About 2 inches. Care: Need to be kept in groups of 3+, as with all cories. Six or over is optimum. Care is the same as all cories. These are a fairly rare type, so check you don't have a similar species e.g., corydoras elegans. They like to hide, so provide plenty of cover. Mine like to hide behind the row of plants at the back of the tank. They can be kept with anything that won't eat them. They are quick little things, so avoid moving them (believe me, playing 'catch the cory', even when you're

Tropical Fish Secrets only trying to get two isn't fun.). Feeding: They will eat anything really. At the moment mine are eating betta flake (I forgot to buy anything else). Just make sure any flake you feed them is soaked, this will let it sink to the bottom. They keep the bottom fairly clean, but don't use this as an excuse to overfeed. Mine will also eat cucumber, peas, bloodworms... As I said, anything. Sexing and Breeding: Sexing- The females are usually larger than the males. Also the colouring is different- The males have about 3 horizontal stripes with the top two joined together with vertical bars, the females look a lot like bronze cories. Spawning is, as far as I know, the same as other cories- condition the fish with live food, do a cool water change and allow spawning. However, I have only found a few breeding accounts, so will hopefully update in a few weeks when I've tried it myself. If you want a more detailed account, see the profile on the spotted cory. Common name/s: Crystal eyed catfish, black devil catfish Scientific name: Hemibagrus wyckii Family:Bagridae Origin: SE Asia Maximum size: 28" Care: A large tank and equally large filtration are a must for keeping this large growing catfish, a minimum tank size of 120 gallons (5x2x2') is recommended with two external canister filters or a sump style filter. The fish isn’t fussy of water conditions provided extremes of hardness and pH are avoided, temperature should be kept between 22 and 25 centigrade (72-76f). A fish for the species tank only, the fish becomes increasingly aggressive with age and will attack and kill any living creature it shares a tank with. A large rock or piece of bogwood should be used as a place for the fish to hide behind. Feeding: Large meaty frozen foods and pellets for carnivorous fish will all be accepted as will large live foods, once over 12" the fish should only be fed one large meal once a week. Sexing and breeding: Unknown Common name: Electric catfish Scientific name: Malapterurus electricus Family: Malapteruridae Origin: throughout Central Africa Maximum size: up to 39" but usually no larger than 12" Care: This is not a very active cat so doesn’t need as much space as some of the other cats such as pims, although due to the size of this fish I would not keep them in anything less than a 48"x30"x24"deep tank. They need to be provided with plenty of hiding places such as logs/bogwood, tubes etc, dim lighting is preferred. When maintaining the tank, a great deal of care is needed not to stress the fish as these can deliver a nasty shock. I had one at 3" which I got 2 shocks off. It is not really dangerous apart from people with heart problems and young children.

Tropical Fish Secrets Feeding: Blood worm and chopped mussel are fine whilst young but as they grow, they prefer meaty foods such as lance fish/smelt. Breeding: I have never heard of this fish being bred in captivity but there are reports that it is a cave spawner in the wild. Comments: So how is the electricity produced? When observed through a microscope, the electric organ is seen to be composed of a series of disc-like modified muscle cells called electroplates, stacked in piles like coins, embedded in a jelly like substance and held together by connective tissue to form a tube. Nerve fibrils connect to one surface of each electroplate, and many blood vessels supply the jelly-like material. Although the electrical potential of each electroplate is very small, the “wiring” of the plates in series, and the columns in parallel, means that a much higher voltage can be produced. Common name/s: Featherfin Catfish, Featherfin Syno Scientific name: Synodontis eupterus Family: Mochokidae Origin: Africa Maximum size: 8" Care: The minimum tank size for this fish would be a 30 gallon. Quite a tough fish. Water parameters are irrelevant as long as extremes of pH and hardness are avoided. It is quite peaceful, and most fish are safe with it. It has been reported, however, that they may attack slower moving fish and are slime-suckers, especially towards bichirs. I have not personally had this problem with them, however. You can put several of this species in a tank that is large enough and has sufficient hiding spots. Large pieces of wood with many holes or caves are perfect for this purpose. Feeding: Sinking pellets and bloodworms are taken with relish. May also eat algae tablets, but this should not be used as its staple diet. Nocturnal, but in my experience, will come out at anytime of the day to feed. sexing and breeding: Sexing requires taking the fish out of the water and viewing its anal region. Breeding unknown. Comments: Juveniles and adults have very different colourations. The juvenile has a brown splotchy pattern while adults have black spots. The juvenile of this species has occasionally been confused with the upside down catfish, due to its similar patterning. Common name: Flagtailed Catfish Scientific name: Dianema urostriatum Family: Callichthyidae Origin: Brazil & other northern regions in South America in rivers and pools. Maximum size: 5" Care: The flagtailed catfish is a peacful community cat that doesn’t grow too big. You will find they can go with almost any other fish which makes them a perfect

Tropical Fish Secrets "larger" cat to keep. They are bottom and middle water swimmers that you will find basking on a rock a lot, whilst swimming about together in the middle regions of the water. - Minimum Tank size would be 20G for a pair or 30G for 3+. - Can be quite fussy with water conditions so check your LFS parameters against your own and acclimatize them carefully. - They like rocks or large plants to sit on / in, along with some caved areas. Feeding: Seem to take very kindly to feeding on catfish pellets and anything else they can forage for on the bottom of the tank. A bit of vegetables is always appreciated and keeps their colours bright. Breeding: Similar to that of a cory. Requires Wet/Dry season simulation and feeding on live food or possibly frozen bloodworm throughout. Sexing: Females are much fatter than the males, easily distinguishable (unless yours are very greedy and are all fat!). Comments: I Have 2 of these and they seem very good friends, so its safe to say keep them in groups. It is usually recommended in groups of 5+ if you have the space. Never caused or been the subject of any problems, an ideal community cat. Common name/s: Frogmouth catfish Scientific name: Chaca chaca Family: Chacidae Origin: India, Sumatra, Borneo Maximum size: 8" Care: Caring for this fish couldn’t be easier, as the fish is an out and out piscavor species tank is recommended and its only requirements are a large flat rock and a sand substrate. The fish is unfussy of water parameters as long as extremes of hardness and pH are avoided, regular tank maintenance will keep the fish in good condition, and a temperature of 22 to 24 centigrade is preferred (71-75f). Frogmouths can swallow prey nearly their own size and so are recommended for a species tank only; keeping with larger fish will affect the fishes ability to hunt effectively. Feeding: FISH! This is one of the very few predators I was unable to convert to frozen foods, unless you are happy to feed live fish then this fish is not for you. As with all predatory catfish frogmouths only need to be fed one good meal a week. Breeding and sexing: Unknown Comments: Frogmouths have the strange ability to lower the pH of the water they live in, often to levels below 6. For this reason regular pH testing is recommended so corrective water changes can be carried out. Common name/s: Glass Catfish, Ghost Catfish, Asian Glass Catfish Scientific name: Kryptopterus minor Family: Siluridae

Tropical Fish Secrets Origin: Southeast Asia Maximum size: 4" Care: These fish can be rather sensitive to water conditions, and thus a matured tank is required. When stocking this fish, put it in last. Soft and acidic water is needed. Nitrate levels must be kept below 40ppm. Plants are important to make this fish feel secure, or they may be extremely skittish. They can be put with pretty much any other community fish, since it is very peaceful. Be careful that there are no fish disturbing it, however, as it is easily stressed. Also, they must be kept in groups of at least 3-4, as keeping too few of this species will make it feel very insecure and stressed, and it will eventually perish. Feeding: Live foods such as bloodworms are preferred. They may take prepared food, but only do so when the food is moved by water current, or sinking. Mine never go to the top to feed. Sexing and breeding: Unknown Comments: The glass catfish can turn a milky colour when stressed. When I first bought mine, one of them turned white. It died the next day. The others, who remained translucent, survived till today. Mine hang out at a single spot in the tank all day, and when I redecorate the tank, they simply pick another spot and stay there all day. An important point to note is that there is another species of glass catfish which is similar, but not the same. Parailia pellucida is the other species, and the difference lies in the spine. Kryptopterus minor has a translucent spine, while parailia pellucida's spine is an opaque black. Common name/s: Golden Nugget Pleco. Scientific name: Baryancistrus sp. Family: Loricariidae. Origin: Amazon, Brazil, Rio Xingu. Maximum size: 14" has been recorded but 8" is more likely in captivity, slow growing. Care: Excellent water conditions are required with a soft and slightly acidic PH preferred. Provide caves and bogwood as a retreat for the fish during daylight hours. They can be a territorial bottom dweller that will occupy a hiding place and keep it to itself; with other Golden Nuggets they are highly territorial. Feeding: These fish require a varied diet including meaty foods like Bloodworms, they will also except more vegetable based foods like cucumber and algae wafers. Try to feed before lights out with newly introduced fish to give them a chance to feed as they are nocturnal. Sexing and Breeding: Not detailed breeding reports, difficult to sex even in mature adults. Comments: A highly attractive fish that makes a shy but wonderful addition to a tank. There are actually three species, L018, L081 and L177. L018 believed to smaller than others reaching a maximum length of 6". Common names/s: Brown hoplo, hoplo catfish Scientific name: Hoplosternum thoracatum Family: Callichthyidae

Tropical Fish Secrets Origin: Widespread throughout the Amazon basin Maximum size: 7" Care: A very easy fish to care for, the species is neither fussy of water conditions, tank mates or food, tolerates temperatures from 18 to 28 Celsius. A sand or smooth small grained gravel substrate should be used to protect the fish’s barbels. The fish will not harm even the smallest fish and is the perfect addition to any community tank over 30" in length, ideally the fish should be kept in groups of 3 or more but can be kept singularly as well. Feeding: All small foods will be taken, bloodworms and small catfish pellets are especially enjoyed, the fish may even take flake from the surface. Breeding: Spawning can be initiated by large water changes using cool water, when in breeding condition the male displays a blue/purple sheen on the under belly. The fish build a bubble nest using leaves and twigs in its construction, after spawning takes place both parents should be removed to separate tanks as the males become aggressive and both will eat eggs and fry. Comments: Hoplosternum make good clean up tank mates for medium sized and non aggressive predators like S.lima, H.platyrynchos, Osteoglossum and Astronotus, their reasonable size and armor plating makes them unappetizing and protects them from the occasional nip. Common name/s: Ornate pim Scientific name: Pimelodus ornatus Family: Pimelodidae Origin: South america, Amazon basin Max size: 12" Care: Not fussy of water parameters as long as extremes of hardness and pH are avoided, a good regular tank maintenance schedule will keep the fish in top condition, needs the temperature to be between 24 and 25 Celsius (75-77f). A constantly active fast moving catfish the minimum sized tank to keep this fish when adult would be 5x2x2' (120 gallon) though this size could easily handle a small group of them (3-5 fish). Does best in a group but is quite happy kept as a single specimen, as with all pimeloids the fish is a predator and fish less than half its size will be eaten. Feeding: All manor of prepared and frozen and fresh meaty foods will snapped up greedily, the fish will eat enough in one feeding to last a week! Smaller specimens can be fed on bloodworms until they are large enough to accept larger foods. The main thing to remember is to keep the diet varied. Breeding and sexing: Unknown Comments: A must have for any pimeloid catfish enthusiast; this is the fish that all other pims wish they were! Common name: Oto / Otocinclus Scientific name: Otocinclus Affinis Origin: South America Family: Loricariidae Maximum size: 2 inches

Tropical Fish Secrets Care: Needs a tank of 10 gallons minimum. Keep at temperatures of 75-79f. A peaceful community fish. An ideal algae eater for small aquariums. This catfish likes to be in groups of three or more. A nice feature about this catfish is that it is not as shy as most species. It can often be found stuck to the sides of the tank or grazing rocks and leaves during the day. Do provide a few hiding places just in case this fish feels like a little privacy. A dark colored substrate makes this cat feel more comfortable. Feeding: Algae wafers as well as some vegetables. Loves brown algae and driftwood. Sexing: Females are larger and rounder then males. Males have slightly longer fins which aren't really noticeable at first glance. Breeding: You need quite a few otos to get them "in the mood". They will lay eggs on rocks and leaves. Keep the water slightly softer to encourage breeding. Comment: Be very careful when acclimating this fish and carefully monitor its care the first 2-3 weeks. Many people have a hard time acclimating the otos and getting them to eat. Common Name/s: Panda Cory Scientific Name: Corydoras panda Origin: Peru, South America Maximum Size: 2” Care: Panda Cories do the best in nice, clean water. The temperature should be between 68-78, but I’ve always found them to do best in water that’s about 73-75. They cannot tolerate very high temperatures for long periods of time. The p.H should be around 6.5 - 7.4. with Panda Cories, They are one of the more delicate types of Cories. Sand is best for them, as they can go about sifting through it, and picking up bits of food. Fine gravel is also okay, but then some uneaten food can fall through, and cause bad bacteria, which can cause infections in the Cories. I’ve found you need to do water changes pretty often with Panda Cories, more often then you need to for other Cories. On my tank that has Pandas in it, I do water changes 2 times a week. They also will enjoy caves, or pots, where they can hide. Feeding: Flake food, sinking wafers, and most Live/Frozen/Freeze-dried foods. I’ve found Bloodworms, Brine Shrimp and Tubifex Worms to be some of their favorites. Sexing: Females are more robust. It’s easier to see this, when you view them from the top. The male should look more streamlined. If you happen to catch them breeding, the female will be the one carrying the eggs around. Comments: Panda Cories are great little fish. They do well in community tanks, and they are very peaceful. Common Name: Peppered Corydoras Scientific Name: Corydoras paleatus Origin: South America Average size: In captivity they can grow to be 3" Care: Peppered cories do well in large groups because they are a schooling fish

Tropical Fish Secrets and can live up to several years. A group of five or six is good. A good water temperature can range from 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit. They are strictly freshwater; adding salt water to a tank of cories will stress the fish. This type of fish is also known as an armored catfish and is compatible with many other species of freshwater tropical fish. One thing to keep in mind is that every Corydoras catfish occasionally needs oxygen at the surface. They swim to the top and swallow bubbles of air to absorb oxygen internally. Feeding: Peppered cories are bottom feeders; they search the bottom for leftover food. They will eat flake food that sinks to the bottom. Shrimp pellets, in my own experience, has been the most popular food but they will eat most bottom feeder pellets. Sexing and Breeding: The female Peppered Cory Cats are usually larger and more round than the males. In nature they breed when the rivers and streams flood with fresh water. To breed in captivity do large and frequent water changes and decrease the water temperature slightly. When breeding, the female groups off with two males, she chooses which one she will mate with. The mating pair will get into the "T" position, where the female faces the males on a 90 degree angle to extract the male's sperm. The female will then lay the eggs throughout the tank, underneath plant leaves and under rocks. Common name/s: Pictus catfish, pim pictus, angelicus pim Scientific name: Pimelodus pictus Family: Pimelodidae Origin: Amazon and its tributaries in Columbia and Peru Maximum size: 6", 12" in the wild Care: The fish is reasonably easy to care for, it tolerate a wide range of water conditions and will thrive in all but the most alkaline and hard water, they are best kept at temperatures from 22 to 25 Celsius. As with all pimeloid catfish the fish can be sensitive to nitrate so regular maintenance should be done, water changes of at least 25% weekly are recommended. Decorate the tank with many pieces of bogwood and rocks to form caves and structures for the fish to rest under. Pimelodus pictus is best kept in a group of 3 or more, if kept alone they become shy and will hide but if kept in just pairs they will fight. this fish is a predator and will consume any tank mates under 3". Feeding: The fish is not fussy about food, most sinking aquarium foods will be taken, and bloodworms and catfish pellets for carnivorous fish are recommended. Breeding: Unknown Comments: There are two subspecies of Piteous pictus in the hobby, the Peruvian pictus which has large black spots and is the more commonly seen fish and the Columbian which has many smaller spots and is generally smaller. Common Names: Pygmy Cory, Pygmy Catfish Scientific Name: Corydoras Pygmaeus Origin: Brazil, in the Rio Maderia and its tributaries. Maximum size: 1 inch

Tropical Fish Secrets Care: Pretty hardy and undemanding, pH of 6.5-7.4 but closer to neutral. Temperature of 72-78. Prefers soft waters, and a shoal of at least 7 in my opinion. Be sure not to house with larger or more aggressive fish, and add some bog or driftwood into the tank. And will appreciate a fine gravel or sand substrate. Feeding: Usually not to picky about foods. Brine shrimp, blood/tubifex worms, flakes, shrimp pellets, and catfish pellets or wafers. Sexing and breeding: Females tend to be a tad wider. Breeding occurs in shoals, eggs are laid on plants. Comments: Very peaceful (like all cory's). Will swim to low mid levels of the tank and very active. Wonderful community fish to have (in my opinion they're better and more fun to have than normal cory's). Some have a very low subdued metallic shine on their body while some have a very bright shine. Common name(s): Red-tailed catfish, Amazonian red-tailed catfish. Scientific name: Phractocephalus hemiliopterus Family: Pimelodidae Origin: Parts of the amazon including deeper waters through to the flooded forest in the rainy season. Maximum size: Difficult to say the max size of these fish as it changes so much. In the wild there are reports that 6-8' cats have been caught but 5' is more common. In captivity however, 4' is a god size with a lot staying at 3’, a lot of public aquaria have them to 3.5' - 4' some may have larger. Care: As far as tropical fish go, they are actually quite a hardy fish and will adapt to captive conditions well as long as a large well filtered aquarium is provided. Eventually they will require a tank/pond of 10'x4'x4' min but larger the better for these fish. As they grow they are best started in small 36" tanks when 2" long and moved up to 4' then 6' tanks and then up to a pond. As for water chemistry, anything between Ph6.5-7.5 and a temperature of 25-30C is fine. To keep nitrates down twice weekly water changes may be required. Feeding: While they're small (2"-6") they are fine on bloodworm, chopped cockle and small pieces of lance fish/smelt daily or every other day. Once they get to 8"-12" they should take whole lance fish/smelt twice a week. Once they hit 12" bits of trout are best and fed once a week. I also add vitamins with this as mine won't touch any green foods. Breeding: Never bred in captivity although we are starting to see red-tail/tiger shovelnose hybrids coming into the shops which IMHO are wrong. This is most likely done using hormones. Comments: This is not a good aquarium fish unless you have a fish house or are can build a huge tank in your home with an equally large filter to match. They should be left to public aquaria IMO. Never leave objects near the aquarium as anything they can swallow will be eaten. In the past, they have eaten cameras, sunglasses and mobile phobes not to mention tank mates. This is a beautiful fish if kept properly. Common name: Rubbernose Pleco / Bulldog Pleco / Rubberlip Pleco Scientific name: Chaetostoma Milesi

Tropical Fish Secrets FamilyLoricariidae Origin: Columbia Maximum size: 3 inches Care: Needs a minimum tank size of 10 gallons, preferably bigger. Keep the temperature from 75 to 80f. Likes to hide in caves and under rocks. Prefers smooth stones and large rounded gravel. Very timid and only comes out at night or when no one is in the room. Very nice fish but you'll only see them like once every week or so. Keep with peaceful community fish. Feeding: Algae wafers and veggies like cucumber, lettuce, and squash, some live or frozen foods. Sexing: Males have a longer dorcal fin then females and the striped pattern is more noticeable. Breeding: Unknown Common name/s: Sailfin pim, painted catfish, saddle catfish, sailfin marbled catfish Scientific name: Leiarius pictus Family: Pimelodidae Origin: Amazon basin Maximum size: 24" to 30" Care: Rightfully known as a true tank buster this fish requires a large tank with massive filtration, unless you have plans for a tropical pond or a tank of at least 8x3x3 feet then this is not the fish for you. The fish is not fussy of water parameters but due to the fishes massive appetite water changes of at least 50% weekly are recommended. Tank furniture needs to be large and robust and any plants should be of the floating variety as the fishes large bulk will easily move objects around the tank and uproot even the most well rooted plants. As with all pimeloids the fish is a predator and any tank mates need to be equally large, other large catfish arownas and cichlids such as oscars are suitable. Feeding: This fish isn’t fussy and will accept all manor of large meaty foods; juveniles will hover up catfish pellets and bloodworm like its going out of fashion. As with all large predatory catfish once the fish has grown to 12" it should only be fed one very large meal once a week. Breeding and sexing: Unknown Comments: The width of the tank is more important than the length for this fish; if the tank is not wide enough the fish’s barbels will touch both sides of the tank at once and cause the fish to try to forcibly leave the tank! Common name/s: Shovelnose catfish, hockey stick catfish, duck bill catfish Scientific name: Sorubim lima Family: Pimelodidae Origin: Found in north western and south western parts of the Amazon and its tributaries, Venezeula to Paraguay Maximum size: 12" is common in aquaria but some fish can grow to 20" Care: Due to the fishes large adult size the minimum sized tank for a single

Tropical Fish Secrets specimen would be a 75g (48x18x18"), for groups of this fish allow a additional 20 gallons per fish. Can be kept in a wide range of water parameters providing you avoid the extremes of hardness and pH, temperatures can be between 23 and 30 centigrade (74-86f). Regular large water changes (30 to 40% weekly) are recommended to keep this fish in good condition. This fish is a predator and so tank mates should be at least 4" to avoid being eaten. Feeding: The fish is a predator and so should be fed a diet of meaty foods, mussels, cockles, fish, earthworms and pellets for carnivorous fish should all be accepted, smaller specimens can be fed bloodworms until they are big enough to take larger food. Breeding: Unknown Sexing: Unknown Comments: The fish has a couple of peculiar habits which may alarm those new to keeping this fish. The first is its preferred hunting position of lining its self up vertical to tall structures within the tank while it waits for prey, this behaviour only seems to last a short while in captivity and once it adapts the fish takes on a more natural at rest position. The second is that this catfish will periodically shed the mucus coat from its body, there are several theories as to why the fish does this ranging from poor water quality to being connected with the fishes growth and even that the fish uses this as a defense mechanism when startled, I personally go with the second theory as my S.limas always seem to do this shortly before a growth spurt, it is none the less nothing to worry about and the mucus will quickly be eaten either by the fish its self or by hungry tank mates. Common Name: Skunk Cory Other Common Name: Arched Cory Scientific Name: Corydoras Arcuatus Family: Callichthyidae Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm) Origin: South America Social: Peaceful Lifespan: 5-8 years Tank Level: Bottom dweller Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon (IMO) Diet: Omnivore, eats most foods Breeding: Egglayer Care: Easy to Intermediate Temperature: 25 Degrees Sexing: Easiest when viewed from above as with most cories, The female has a more fuller wider body behind the pectoral fins. Notes: A healthy skunk cory will have shine over its golden brown body, Due to the similar marking to the bandit cory i've found them to shoal together readily. They are not as readily as available as bronze or the more common types of cories, Although you see them from time to time. Tend to be a little more delicate than other types of cory so be sure to keep up with tank maintenance.

Tropical Fish Secrets Common Name/s: South American Bumblebee Catfish Specific Name: Microglanis iheringi Origin: South America Maximum Size: 3" Care: This catfish should be kept in a temperature between 22-26 degrees C (72-77 degrees F). The PH should be anywhere from 6 - 7.5 . This catfish should have a completely dark cave, they prefer wood to stone, but even a long black piece of PVC pipe would work well. Lots of vegetation like large Amazon swords should be provided. Lots of hiding places or narrow cracks or holes should also be provided. They are not aggressive and peaceful with its own and other species. This fish would do well in a community tank. Feeding: This catfish is an omnivore. It is not a fussy eater and will probably eat any type of prepared food, although brine shrimp and blood worms appear to be a special favorite. Sexing and Breeding: Sexing is unknown. Breeding is difficult and reported successful only with experts. Comments: Although this catfish hides during most of the day, it is a great addition to 15 gallon or larger aquarium. I find that my bumblebee catfish loves dried Blood Worms and will even come out of his cave and dart to the top to grab a mouthful! He is quite an amazing catfish. Common name/s: Spotted raphaael catfish, spotted talking catfish Scientific name: Agamyxis pectinifrons Family: Doradidae Origin: Amazon basin Maximum size: 6" Care: The fish is very easy to care for and places no demands on water, tank mates or furnishings, tolerates temperatures from 20 to 26 Celsius. Like all Doradids the fish is nocturnal and will refuse to be active by day, a cave or rocks/bogwood should be supplied for the fish to rest in/under during daylight. The fish are sociable and should be kept in a group of at least 3, they are not predatory but very small fish (neon tetras etc) may be accidentally eaten. Feeding: The fish should be fed after lights out, not fussy the fish will accept all sinking aquarium foods; the fish will also eat snails. Breeding: Unknown Comments: The fish makes a good addition to the clean up crews of tanks containing large messy fish. Common name: Sterba, Sterbai Cory, Sterba's Cory Scientific name: Corydoras Sterbai Origin: Brazil, South America Family: Callichthyidae Maximum size: 3 inches Minimum tank size: 15 Gallons

Tropical Fish Secrets Care: Sterbais enjoy heavily planted tanks with a fine, smooth substrate. These fish are very active and can often be seen wandering the bottom areas of the tank during the day. Provide a few hiding places with rocks or groups of plants. These cories prefer a ph of around 6.8. House with any other peaceful community fish; tetras, gourami, danios, otos, female bettas. Feeding: Cucumber, flakes, algae wafers, bloodworms, and various other vegetables. Sexing: Unknown Breeding: The male will clamp the barbells of the female during the fertilization of eggs. The female attaches the eggs to a leaf or smooth surface. The eggs will hatch in 3-5 days and the fry can be fed micro worms. Comment: This fish can be a bit pricey but as breeding is becoming more common the price is slowly going down. The price of this cory has gone down by almost 50% in the last year. This is a great catfish and worth the few extra bucks. Synodontis is a Greek word, with 'syn' meaning together and 'odontis' meaning tooth. It refers to the closely set teeth on the lower jaw. Features: The synodontis alberti is distinguished by its rather silver-like skin, with large brown leopard spots (usually starting from just behind the eyes to the base of the tail. On the fins, much smaller leopard spots are seen a on a light brown canvas. This catfish especially when young is most attractive by its rather large eyes and its long barbels. They are generally solitary, but in larger tanks may be likely to create a small group. These will not eat healthy fish and anything over 1" will be safe. Size: This catfish gets to a size of 6.5" in the home aquarium. Therefore a good size tank to home one of these beautiful fish would be about 3' x 2' x 2' (36" x 24" x 24"). Place Of Origin: Can be found in Zaire, near Brazzavile, Stanley Pool, Kinshasa and the Upper Congo. Water Conditions: These syno's prefer a cooler temperature of 21 - 25 degrees C. They prefer a Ph of between 6-8. Tank layout: These catfish prefer bogwood/driftwood rather than rocks, plants may not be needed but will give cover for them during the day. Make sure they have plenty of caves as they tend to take cover during the day in dark crevasses. Rounded gravel or sand is a preferred substrate due to spending most of their life on the bottom of the tank. Diet: Their diet consists of bloodworms, bits of algae scraped off rocks with their teeth on the bottom jaw, will take other frozen food, flake food and algae wafers. (From my experience peas and cucumber go down a good treat! ) Compatibility: Make sure the lower level of the tank is not too crowded because these catfish

Tropical Fish Secrets will squabble for cover during daylight hours. Put in with tank mates over 1" in length, do not put in with anything too aggressive. These catfish may bother more timid species at night with its long barbels when in search for food. Ideal tank mates would be mostly medium sized community fish (about 4" or so). Sexing: When trying to sex your synodontis, first you'll need to catch it.... Good Luck... Next, in great care of its sharp dorsal and side fins, place the catfish's dorsal in between your index finger and your middle finger, to hold the fish on its back. (Make sure the head is towards your palm and the tail is in the direction of your fingers, that way if the catfish wriggles, you’re less likely to get some damage done... To you that is) Next pull the tail down gently; doing this should straighten the pelvic fins to reveal a furrow tissue underneath. The furrow will open to display the anus of the fish and the genital pore. The female will show an extended papillea but the oviduct is on the ventral side of this papillea; if the female is mature a slight redness might be apparent. A small or thin female may have 2 pink pores, oviduct and anus. Males on the other hand have quite ridged genital papillae on which the spermatoduct is on the back end facing towards the tail fin. Females may appear more 'plump' also. Breeding: None yet stated Overall these catfish are beautiful and a great community fish to have. It's a great joy to watch them scamper across the aquarium floor at night (when the lights are dimmed). I would recommend these to anyone with a big enough tank. Common name: Tiger shovelnose catfish Scientific name: Pseudoplatystoma fasciatum Family: Pimelodidae Origin: Amazon, common in the fast flowing rapids. Maximum size: Usually about 3' in captivity, larger in the wild. Care: Provide this fish with a large 10'x4'x3' tank and a large filter such as a sump tank. As far as water quality goes, they will be fine with a neutral pH and a temperature of 25-28C, they need plenty of surface water movement and plenty of oxygen in the water. These fish can be housed with peaceful fish such as other large cats, arowanas, as some characins. just make sure that they or of an equal size as these fish have largemouths and have no trouble eating fish half there own size. Feeding: They have similar feeding habits to the red-tailed catfish - while they're small 2"-6" they are fine on bloodworm, chopped cockle and small pieces of lance fish/smelt daily every or every other day, once they get to 8"-12" they should take whole lance fish/smelt twice a week. Once they hit 12" bits of trout are best and fed once a week. Breeding: These fish are not bred in captivity. Comments: In the wild, these are the native equivalent to cod and chips. local

Tropical Fish Secrets fishermen catch hundreds of these a week and they are very common on fish markets in the Amazon and Peru. this is another fish that is better left to public aquaria unless you can provide huge tanks and filters. common name:Upside Down Catfish scientific name: Synodontis nigriventris family: mochokidae origin: Zaire and niger river basins maximum size: 10 cm (4 inches) life span: 5 or more years! Care: easy! the upside down catfish can tolerate a pH of 6 to 7.5, temperatures from 22-26 C (72-79F) and a hardness of 5-15 dH. The upside down catfish is a very peaceful fish and should be kept in small schools! Driftwood caves and plants are a must! The enjoy hanging out on the underside of leaves and driftwood. Temperature is not a critical! Diet: the will eat some forms of algae but sometimes need live food as well as frozen! To provide them with wonderful health you must slip some insect larvae when ever possible! Breeding: the upside down catfish is an egg layer! Supply them with an over turned pot or PVC pipe! Females are larger, paler, and have rounder plump bodies. When readying them to spawn supply them with live foods and soften the water to mimic there natural habitat! After the spawn the parents may be left in the tank! Eggs hatch in about 2 days and will feed from the yolk from the sac for 4 days. Then you must feed them freshly hatched BBS. In 2 months the fry will begin swimming in the characteristics of the parents! Comments: the upside down catfish is a fun and exciting creature to watch! They make a great addition to any aquarium! Common name/s: White line piteous Scientific name: Pimelodus albofasciatus Family: Pimelodidae Origin: Amazon basin Max size: 6" in captivity to 10" in nature Care: The fish’s restless nature means that it should be housed in a tank of at least 36" in length; the optimum sized tank would be a 55g. It can be kept in a wide range of water parameters though extremes of hardness and pH should be avoided, good basic aquarium husbandry will keep the fish in good condition, can be kept in temperatures from 22 to 26 centigrade (70-76f). The fish is territorial towards its own species and similar fish and can be aggressive when kept in smaller tanks, as with all pimeloid species it is a predator and tank mates should be at least 4" to avoid being eaten. Feeding: Unfussy of foods the fish will gorge itself on most frozen and prepared foods offered; the fish should be fed enough to make its belly swell like it has swallowed a marble twice a week. Breeding and sexing: Has not yet been bred in captivity and sexual differences are unknown.

Tropical Fish Secrets Comments: A nice change from the more commonly seen pimeloids at a size that can easily be housed by the average fish keeper.

Characins

Family: Anostomidae Size: 7inches, 20cm Diet: This fish will accept dry and frozen foods (brine shrimp I found is preferred) as well as things like cockell and mussell occasionally. Compatibility: This fish is fairly peaceful, community fish, which is better off in a larger tank with fish of roughly the same size. Fish I’d recommend to keep with the Anostomus are: Leporinus fasciatus fasciatus -Black banded leporinus size:12" Abramites hypselonotus -High-backed Headstander size 5.5" Distichodus affinis- size 8" Tank conditions: Temperature -between 22-26degrees C PH-around neutral Layout: A good environment for the anostomus would be that of a tank of around 3', gravel substrate with pieces of bogwood and lots of plants so this fish can swim around securely. Common name/s: Black banded leporinus Scientific name: Leporinus fasciatus fasciatus Family: Anostomidae Origin: South America, Amazon basin Maximum size 12" Care: As expected due to its adult size the fish requires a fairly large tank, one of at least 75 gallons with a high volume filter is recomended. The fish places no special demands on water parameters as long as the extremes of hardness and

Tropical Fish Secrets pH are avoided, a temperature between 23 and 27 centigrade will be fine (73-81f). The fish are herbivores and will make short work of most aquarium plants although java fern may be left alone. The tank should have many hiding places between rocks and bogwood and a good current. These fish are notorious fin nippers and so tank mates should be short finned and fast moving, when older the fish may predate on smaller fish so tank mates should be the same size or larger. Feeding: Should be fed mainly vegetable foods such as lettuce, spinach, courgette (zuchinni) and watercress though the fish will also eat meaty frozen foods and snails. Sexing and breeding: Unknown Comments: The fish are aggressive and have no fear of attacking even larger fish in the aquarium, as they grow the front teeth become more prominent and they become capable of inflicting quite serious damage on other fish so tank mates should be semi aggressive and able to defend themselves. Common name/s: Black Neon Tetra Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi Family: Characidae Origin: South America Maximum size: 1.75" (4.5cm) Care: Keep in groups of at least 6-8. They prefer slightly acidic water. They should be kept at 72-79f (22-26c). Feeding: They will accept most available flake foods, but relish live meaty foods, such as tubifex or bloodworm. Sexing and breeding: Although they have the same colouration as the males, females are fuller/plumper in the body. These fish are egg scatterers, and are very easy to breed. Good for the novice fish breeder. Common name: Black/White Skirt or Black Widow Tetra Scientific name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi Origin: Rio Paraguay, Rio Guapore, Bolivia Maximum size: 2 inches (5.5 cm) Care: Easy to care for, peaceful, very hardy (I cycled my tank with them), a schooling fish that should be placed with at least 4 or more of its kind, great community fish, very robust when it comes to diseases. I haven't had one of mine catch a disease yet and one is over 2 years old! Not a messy fish creates little waste, enjoys plenty of plants to hide and swim through. Swims mid level, and should live a life of up to 5 years. Minimum tank of 10 gallons or more. Water quality: Accepts a wide variety of water conditions. Temperature 68-79F, pH 5.8-8.5, will accept slightly soft to hard water. Feeding: Omnivore, not a picky fish when it comes to food at all. Will accept flakes, pellets, tubifex worms, and frozen foods like blood worms and brine shrimp being a favorite of course. Sexing: Female white skirts are generally larger than the males and have a rounder body (all my girls have bellies). I find my females have short, rounded

Tropical Fish Secrets fins and the males have slightly longer, more pointed fins. Breeding: Males will claim a territory that they will guard during spawning periods. Although they are egg scatters they prefer to spawn among fine-leaved plants. The parents should be removed after a successful spawn, because they will eat their eggs. Eggs will hatch after approximately one day. The fry may be fed freshly hatched brine shrimp, egg yolk, or finely ground flake foods. Comments: This species is a color variation of the Black skirt Tetra. A number of long-finned and dyed colours have been produced, therefore giving it a variety of names like blueberry, strawberry, or fruit loop tetra. A wonderful fish for a community or species tank, great for beginners, and easily affordable. Is known as a Black Skirt/White Skirt in the US as a Black Widow in most of the rest of the world. Many dyed examples exist, Blueberry/Strawberry/Fruit Loop Tetras etc. Common Name: Bloodfin Tetra Scientific Name: Aphyocharax anisitsi Family: Characidae Origin: Argentina and Rio Parana Maximum Size: Up to 3" Care: These are extremely hardy, extremely peaceful, Tetras which will accept a wide range of conditions, including temperatures between 65 and 82 degrees F, and pH of 6.0-8.0. They need to be in schools, the bigger the better. Kept in a clean tank with a good diet, these fish have been known to live over 10 years. Feeding: Will accept most foods including flake, small pellets, frozen and live. Sexing and Breeding: This Tetra is extremely easy to breed, and will do so under nearly any condition. Broad leaved plants are a must though, as they will lay their adhesive eggs on the leaves. If no plants are provided, they will lay their eggs near the top of the aquarium. In either case, you must separate the adults or they will eat the eggs. After a few days the eggs will hatch. Sexing is relatively easy, as the male has a hook on the end of its anal fin, whereas the female's is more rounded. Females are also plumper and duller in color than males. Comments: A great beginner fish that will give you many years of enjoyment. These fish are very tight schoolers so 6 or more is a must. Common name/s: Buck-toothed Tetra; Saw-toothed Tetra Scientific name: Exodon paradoxus Family: Characidae Origin: Amazon Basin Maximum size: 6" (15cm) Care: Large, well covered aquarium, with ample swimming space. Efficient filtration is a must. Subdued lighting is preferred. Temperature range: 77-84d F (22-29d C) Feeding: Meat based commercial formulations, deep frozen, freeze dried, and live foods all excepted. Crickets or feeders can be used as a treat. Sexing and breeding: Sexing unknown. Will lay eggs scattered among vegetation. Hatching takes one and a half days.

Tropical Fish Secrets Comments: Aggressive predator should be kept in school of at least 5 and preferably larger groups. Only kept with larger, robust fish. In small groups, the fish will attack and kill weaker members until there is only one of the species left. This fish has been kept successfully with Piranhas, especially Red Bellied Piranhas, but do so at own risk. This is a fast moving, active fish, and should be given a large enough tank to grow in (29g for juveniles, 55g for adults). Common Name/s: Buenos Aires Tetra Scientific Name: Hemmigrammus Caudovittatus Family: Characidae Origin: Argentina, Paraguay and Southeast Brazil Maximum Size: 3" (7cm) Care: Keep these fish in as larger group as possible, they are an active shoaling fish. They are an extremely hardy fish and can tolerate a large range of conditions Feeding: They accept most commercial flake foods but relish live and frozen foods Sexing and Breeding: Easy fish to breed. The Female has a rounder and fatter stomach whereas the males tend to have bright red fins and a slimmer stomach. There fish breed readily in the aquarium. They scatter their eggs among plants or in the substrate where the eggs tend to be eaten before they can hatch. Young that survive grow at a steady rate and do best on a diet of small live foods. Comments: An extremely hardy fish recommended for the beginner. These fish eat most plants found in an aquarium and for this reason they are not as popular today as they used to be many years ago. They have informally been called the "Lawnmowers of the Aquatic World" by many fish keepers. Common name/s: Cardinal Tetra Scientific name: Paracheirodon Axelrodi Family: Characidae Origin: South America Maximum size: 2" (5cm) Care: A soft, acidic water is preferred by these guys as most of them in the are wild caught from the amazon. As with most tetras, they should be in schools of, at the very least, 3. With these guys, the more the merrier. Keeping a large number against a dark background with a bright light makes them an absolutely stunning sight. Feeding: They will eat pretty much anything including flakes, pellets, and live foods. Sexing and breeding: Females are slightly larger, with a wider body. To breed, you must imitate the natural conditions in the wild. Soft water and a pH of around 5.8 is a must. They will usually spawn in the evening, and following spawning the parents should be removed from the tank. For the first few days, they will be feeding off their yolk sacs. Following the 3rd day, you may begin infusoria, then small live foods such as micro worms and vinegar eels.

Tropical Fish Secrets Comments: One of the most beautiful fish out there, but may be difficult to find in some areas, or expensive. Kept in a large school, they will look great with the contrasting red and glimmering blue streak. Looks very similar to the neon, but in neons, the red stripe only extends to the abdomen region, while with cardinal it goes all the way to the mouth. Also note that their red colouration will fade when they are stressed, or without light for long periods. For the latter, this is totally reversible and the red stripe will return when the light comes back on. Common name/s: Congo Tetra. Scientific name: Phenacogrammus interruptus Family: Alestidae Origin: Zaire. Maximum size: 3" (8.5 cm). Care: Keep in as larger group as possible as they are an active shoaling fish. They prefer slightly soft, acidic water and a well planted tank. Feeding: They will accept most commercial foods but relish live and frozen foods. Sexing and Breeding: Males are easily distinguished by their extended finnage and bright colours in comparison to the shorter finned dull females. Congo Tetras are egg scatterers, so if they spawn in a community tank most of the eggs will be eaten. The young are slow growers and should be feed live insect larve. Comments: A stunning fish, fully grown males are a truly magnificent sight with their elaborate finnage and delicate hues. They are an active fast swimming and peaceful fish that does well in a peaceful community tank, maybe with an African theme. Common Name/s: Discus Tetra, Disc tetra, Salmon tetra & Disk characin Scientific name: Brachychalcinus orbicularis Other scientific names: Brachychalcinus guianensis, Ephippicharax orbicularis, Poptella orbicularis & Tetragonopterus orbicularis, Family: Characidae Origin: Guyana and Suriname. Maximum Size: 9cm/3.5" Care: Groups of 6 at the very least. These fish go beyond schooling to the point of acting as one fish. pH range 5.5-7.6 temp range 18-25c Feeding: Omnivourous, will accept any foods offered. Know to eat the odd plant or two. Sexing and Breeding: impossible to tell from external viewing. Not known to breed in the aquarium. Comments: A rare and beautiful mid level fish. Lighting the tank from the side will bring out the green, pink and violet hues on its otherwise silver body. Looks very similar to silver dollars Common Name(s): Dwarf Pencilfish Scientific Name: Nannostomus Marginatus

Tropical Fish Secrets Family: Lebiasinidae Origin: Amazon Basin Maximum size: Up to 1.75 inches, although rarely exceeds 1.25 inches. Care: Does best in planted aquariums, although can do well in unplanted. Likes tempatures between 73-80. Keep pH between 5-7. Prefers blackwater extract and/or peat filtration. Subdued to moderate lighting. Not really a "schooling fish" but likes small groups of at least 3. Feels more comfortable with a couple of taller of floating plants. Don’t house with large fish. Feeding: Omnivorius and micro predators is what I call them. Will take crushed spurinula flakes or very fine spurinula pellets. Will occasionally eat tropical fish micro pellets. Most frozen and freeze-dried foods small enough to fit in their mouths. Is a must to add small live foods such as baby brine shrimp, fruit flies, mosquito larvae, daphina, white worms, and things of that extent. Sexing and Breeding: Males are usually slimmer and have brighter red colors. Breeding occurs at higher temps around 85 degrees on fine leaved plants. Parents may eat the eggs if they get a chance. It's very difficult to feed the fry as they are too small for most foods. Comments: Wonderful, active, colorful fish to keep. May be shy sometimes though. Can be expensive, but worth the investment IMHO. Common name: Flame Tetra / Von Rio Tetra Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon Flammeus Family: Characidae Origin: South America Maximum size: 2 inches Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons Temperature: 75-79 degrees Care: A schooling fish that needs at least six fish of the same species to live happily. Prefers planted tanks with lots of hiding places and a tank with low light. These are middle dwellers but seem to venture to the top area of the tank quite a bit. These fish are usually drab and dull in stores but color up very nicely in the right conditions. This is an undemanding fish with not many special requirements. Feeding: Accepts flake foods and frozen foods such as bloodworms. Sexing: Females are noticeably fatter and duller in color. Most females are silver in color and males turn a deep reddish orange color and shimmer in the light. Keep in mind that you may not be able to sex the flame tetra in stores because most are usually silver from stress. Breeding: Productive, up to 250 eggs. Eggs will hatch in 24-50 hours. After the fish are done breeding, they should be removed immediately since afterwards they will start to eat the eggs. Fry should be fed a live culture of some kind as soon as they are free swimming. Eggs will not hatch if exposed to light. Common name/s: Freshwater baracuda, Dog characin, Amazon Cachorro Scientific name: Acestrorhynchus falcirostris Family: Characidae Origin: Amazon basin

Tropical Fish Secrets Maximum size: 16" though 12" more likely in captivity Care: A large aquarium with massive filtration is a must, minimum tank size should be 5x2x2' (150 gallon). The fish is unfussy of water parameters providing extremes of hardness and pH are avoided, temperatures from 24 to28 Celsius are tolerated (75-82f). It is advised to heavily plant the sides of the tank to prevent the fish from smashing its self against the glass. The fish is a predator and should only be kept with equal sized and larger fish. Feeding: FISH! This fish is a pure piscavor, smaller specimens can be converted to frozen meaty foods but adults demand living fish. Sexing and breeding: Unknown Comments: Despite its predatory life style and aggressive looks the fish is shy and easily frightened, do not keep with overly aggressive fish or the barracuda will attempt to escape the tank often damaging themselves against the hood of the tank. Common name: Glowlight Tetra Scientific name: Hemigrammus erythrozonus Family: Characidae Origin: Guyana Maximum size: 2 inches Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons Temperature: 75-79 degrees Care: A schooling fish that needs to be in groups of six or more. Very undemanding. This tetra makes a good community fish for beginners. They like low light and plants to hide in. Feeding: Accepts flake food and live foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp. Sexing: Females are considerably fatter than the males. Breeding: Fry hatch after 24 hours. Start feeding micro worms and newly hatched brine shrimp after 3-4 days of hatching. Common Name/s: Green Neon Tetra, False Neon Tetra Scientific name: Paracheirodon simulans Family: Characidae Origin: South America: Upper Negro and Orinoco River basins Maximum Size: 2cm Care: larger the group the better for this small fish. A school of 10 or more will give you their best activeness. Prefers soft, acidic water with a pH of 5.5 to 6. They can be acclimated to a wide range of pH although they do not do so well in the higher bands. Temp range of 23 to 27°C (73.4 to 80.6°F) they do best at 26°C (78.8°F). Feeding: Crushed flakes and live/frozen foods. Avoid bloodworm as they are often too big for them. Daphnia seems to be a favourite of my green neon tetras. Sexing and Breeding: Very hard to tell; however females appear, slightly, plumper than males. No reported instances of breeding in the aquarium. Comments: As with most characins they are susceptible to Neon tetra disease.

Tropical Fish Secrets You should avoid keeping them with any fish that can fit them into their mouths. Peat filtration is a must to have to reach their full potential. emigrammus ocellifer - Head and Tail Light Tetra Family - Characin Size - 4cm (1.5inches) Origin - Amazon Basin, South America Care - These fish are very easy to keep and are good for beginners providing water quality is good. Diet - I feed my head and tail tetras flake food. This is the staple diet however; they are scavengers and eat anything. They also eat Freeze Dried Bloodworms and Brine Shrimp Compatibility - Corydoras Catfish, Large Tetras, Mollies, Platies, Plecostomus, Swordtails, Zebra Danio Tank Conditions - 22-26 Degrees C (72-79 Degrees F), PH should be 6.0-8.0 Breeding - They are egg layers and are extremely easy to breed. Life Span - Anything up to 5 years Tank Layout - It is best to keep head and tail tetras in groups of 6 or more. They like a fairly strong current and also place to hide. They prefer a floating plant layer and dimmed lighting is a good idea. Common name/s: Marbled Hatchet Scientific name: Carnegiella strigata strigata Family: Gasteropelecidae Origin: Mostly found in small forest streams in Guyana and the Amazon River basin. Maximum size: 1-2" Feeding: Flakes foods are not enough for Hatchets and it is necessary to take a little time and effort to provide them with live or frozen alternatives. In my experience they love fruit flies and mosquitoes and their larve, mine have a particular favourite; freeze dried bloodworms which float on the surface for them. Care: This fish is particularly prone to white spot. If at all possible quarantine the fishes for a minimum of two weeks before putting them in the community tank. They like a peaceful tank with tall or floating plants to deter them from jumping, a tight fitting hood is also necessary. Sexing: Males more slender when viewed from above, females rounder and wider. Breeding: This fish has been breed in captivity. This requires very soft acidic water. The eggs are deposited on floating plants but some will fall to the bottom of the tank. They hatch in 24-36 hours and the fry require very small live foods. Just keeping the parents is a challenge so raising the offspring is even more so. Comments: A lovely little surface dweller, however, it is prone to disease so quarantining is a good idea, once settled in they are a great community fish.

Tropical Fish Secrets Common name: Penguin Tetra or Penguinfish Scientific name: Thayeria boehlkei Family: Characidae Origin: Amazon Basin, South America. Maximum size: 1.5 inches Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons Temperature: 75-79 degrees Care: Very undemanding. This tetra makes a good community fish for beginners. The Penguin Tetra swims in a zig-zag motion with its head higher than its tail. Feeding: Accepts flake food and live foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp. Sexing: Hard to determine. Breeding: Can be bred. Remove eggs or change water after spawning and the males produce a large amount of sperm. Common Name/s: Roberti Tetra, Roberts Tetra Scientific name: Moenkhausia robertsi Other scientific names: None. Family: Characidae. Origin: South America: Lower Orinoco, Upper Black Amazon. Maximum Size: 5cm/ 2” Care: Peat filtration is a must to keep this species thriving. They do best in the 25-27C temp range, with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Feeding: Like most tetras will eat most anything offered. Loves live foods like bloodworm, daphnia etc. Sexing and Breeding: Males tend to have a more pronounced dorsal fin, which has a crooked finger shape. Not known to breed in the aquarium Comments: These tetras are truly stunning and a great peaceful addition to any community aquarium Common name/s: Rummy Nose Tetra Scientific name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus Family: Characidae Origin: Amazon basin Maximum size: 2" Feeding: They are omnivores and will take different types of food. They will eat flakes, as well as frozen and live foods. Care: These fish are very delicate so the water has to be perfect before adding them to the tank. You should never add them to a cycling tank. They should be kept in shoals, the more the better, since they are very shy and will feel much more secure in greater numbers. They should be kept with non-aggressive tank mates. The tank should be at least 10 gallons to give them enough room to swim. Sexing: Males are slimmer than females Breeding: These fish are hard to breed. Water has to be soft and acidic acidic. The females will scatter the eggs and fry will hatch in a couple of days Comments: Very peaceful and beautiful fish. Their noses are good indicators of

Tropical Fish Secrets the quality of the water. Noses will be bright red when the water conditions are good. However, they will lose color if there are nitrites/ammonia in the water or if the fish are stressed. Common name/s: Sabretooth tetra, Payara Scientific name: Hydrolycus scomberoides Family: Characidae Origin: Amazon basin Maximum size: 30" though 12" more likely in captivity Care: A large tank with massive filtration and a strong current is a must. As with all large predatory fish regular water changes of 30 to 40% a week are recommended. The fish is unfussy of water parameters provided extremes of hardness and pH are avoided, tolerates temperatures from 24 to 28 Celsius (75-82f). The fish is a predator so tank mates must be large and robust. Feeding: FISH! The species are out and out piscavors, with time some fish can be converted to frozen meaty foods. Sexing and breeding: Unknown Comments: Not really suited to aquarium life, the fish often die for no apparent reason; I was only able to keep my pair alive for 4 months before they both died from unknown causes Common name: Serpae Tetra Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon Serpae Family: Characidae Origin: Amazon basin Maximum size: 1.75 inches Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons Temperature: 75-80 degrees Care: A schooling fish. Needs to be in groups of at least six. A mid dwelling tetra. This fish is a known fin nipper so be careful what tank mates you put in with them. They prefer a planted tank with places to hide and low light. Keep with community fish like danios and gourami. Feeding: flake food, live foods. Sexing: Females are pinker in color with bigger stomachs. Males are redder with longer anal fins. Breeding: Remove parents after breeding. Eggs hatch within 24-28 hours. Condition the pair on live foods and keep eggs away from direct sunlight. Eggs are transparent and hard to see. Common name: Silver dollar Scientific name: Metynnis argenteus Family: Serrasalmidae Origin: Amazon basin Maximum size: 5" Care: Silver dollars are a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of 5 or

Tropical Fish Secrets more, for this reason a tank of at least 55 gallons is recomended. They are herbivores that will make short work of most aquarium plants, hardy plants like Java fern and Anubias may be left alone. The fish prefers soft slightly acidic water but can be kept in water with a pH of up to 7.5 and a hardness of 20 GH without problems, the temperature should be kept between 24 and 28 Celsius (75-82f). The fish can be extremely shy and nervous if placed in a tank with overly aggressive fish or the tank is placed in a high traffic area. Feeding The fish should be fed mainly vegetable foods such as lettuce, spinach, courgette (zuchini) and watercress though small live and frozen foods such as bloodworms and daphnia will also be taken. Sexing: The male has a longer anal fin with a reddish tinge to the front. Breeding: Breeding is rare but possible; the key is very soft acidic water (pH 6, GH 10, KH -4). The fish are egg scatterers. Common names: Bentosi White Tip Tetra/ Bentos Tetra/ Ornate Tetra/ False Rosy Tetra Family: Characidae Sub-family: Incertae sedis Order: Characin Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes) Origin: South America/Amazon River Basin Maximum size: 5cm (2 inches) Minimum Tank Size: from 60l (13 Imp gallon, 16 US gallon) PH range: 6 – 7.5 dH range: 5-19 Temperature: 24-28 C (75-82 F) Care: I have found the Bentosi white tip a hardy and easy to care for schooling fish, with similar needs to their close relation, the Rosy Tetra (Hyphessobrycon bentosi rosaceous). As a schooling Tetra, they need to be kept in groups of at least five or six to fully appreciate their impressive social displays. Sufficient planted areas should be provided around the sides and rear of tank for hiding when resting, and free swimming space in the centre. A small current also mimics the natural environment of this fish. Feeding: My Bentosi become quite excitable at feeding time, but rarely have the nerve to compete with Danio, or other fast swimming surface feeders. They prefer to snatch and run with anything that drops to mid-water, even if it is too big for their mouth! They happily take flake food, but love live foods as an occasional treat, especially daphnia, mosquito larva and bloodworm. I have also observed them sneaking up and picking at the seeded part of a cucumber slice (when my female Ram is not guarding it!) Sexing: Males have a flag like extension to their dorsal fin and an elongated pelvic and anal fin. Females have a rounder dorsal fin and are plumper and deeper in body. Breeding: I haven’t personally bred this fish yet, but understand that a mating pair should be separated and introduced into a breeding tank (approx 10 gallons) and the water temperature should be 75-79F (24-26 C), with the PH slightly

Tropical Fish Secrets acidic and water hardness of 4dH or less. Fine leafed plants should be provided, on which the eggs will be laid. A calm current and low lighting will mirror their natural environment. The parent fish should be removed before the eggs hatch. The fry hatch usually after 24 hours and are free swimming within a few days. Start feeding micro-organisms once the egg sacs have been consumed, and crushed flake can be fed after 10 days. Weekly partial water changes are beneficial to the fry. Comments: I have personally never found the White Tip to be fin nippers (as their close cousins are often renowned to be) neither do they truly "shoal" except during times of unease, or when feeding. Though they are not constant swimmers - often preferring to hang around a favourite rock or piece of driftwood when relaxed - these little fish are rarely still; they seem to constantly flicker and shiver. Common Names: Wimple Piranhas Scientific Name: Catoprion mento Family: Characidae Origin: Select streams and river basins in Brazil, Bolivia, Venezuela, and Colombia. Maximum Size: Up to 5 inches in aquariums, up to 7 inches in wild. Care: Minimum tank size of 25 gallons, but more comfortable in tanks of 45 gallons or more. Requires high oxygen levels and extra heavy filtration. Leave some open places for free swimming, and some resting places. Does better in planted aquariums, but will also live comfortably with artificial plants. pH levels of 5.5 through 7. Temperature of 74-81 degrees. Likes softer flow rates, so an addition of power heads is not necessary. (Unlike most piranhas who like fast flowing waters). Never house this fish with any other fish, ever! The only exception to this rule is when they are juveniles they can be housed in a small shoal in a large tank, but eventually they must be moved to their own tank as the wimples will tear each other to death, literally. Feeding: Being a predator all live foods are accepted. Primarily a fin eater. Feed a steady diet of live or frozen lance fish, prawns or silversides, frozen shrimp with shell (Check for ingredients label, there should be no additives), Insects, worms, mysis shrimp, and prepared carnivore foods. Will also eat most freeze dried foods such as brine shrimp, blood worms, tubifex, krill, and ocean plankton. Does require some live foods in its diet, be sure to gut load the feeder fish with spirulina or duckweed. Breeding: Never been bred in captivity. Comments: Wimple piranhas are not true piranhas because of the teeth alignment (spelling?) but certainly look like them and act like them. All wimples are wild caught, so don’t expect this to be a cheap fish. It has beautiful colorations with the body being mostly silver with hints of a blue/green. Orange and red gill patch and bright red anal fin. Caution: Without proper precautions wimples may bite if felt nervous, defensive, or intimidated. They can give out some nasty bites, usually ending up with a trip to the emergency room for stitches. Luckily I’ve never been bitten. But other than that wimples are straight

Tropical Fish Secrets up one of the best fish to have with everything you want: nice colorations, active, and a personality.

Cichlids-African

Common name/s: Electric Yellow, Yellow Lab, Lemon Yellow Scientific name:Labidochromis Caeruleus Family:Cichlidae Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa Maximum size: 5" Care: This is a hardy and easily kept cichlid from the mbuna family, and an excellent choice for beginners and experienced aquarists alike. They are a very social fish that do well in groups of 3 or more. The minimum recommended tank size for these fish is 30 gallons. The aquarium should be decorated with a number of hiding spots including caves of various sizes. Sand substrate is appreciated by these fish, but is not necessary. Yellow Lab's are best kept in water with a PH of 7.5 or higher, at a temperature between 75° and 80°. These cichlids make excellent tank mates for most mildly and moderately aggressive mbuna, aulonocara, and haplichromines from Lake Malawi. Feeding: Daily feedings of high quality cichlid pellets or flakes. Supplements of spirulina flake are recommended. Live or frozen invertebrates including brine shrimp and mysis may also be fed as a supplement. In the wild these fish are insectivores and micro-predators. Sexing and breeding: As young fish Yellow Labs are nearly impossible to sex. As they get older the males will grow faster and larger then the females. As they mature, males will typically display more aggressive behavior then females, and will often be seen digging a nest in a favourite cave. These fish are unselective breeders, and dominant males will mate with any present females. Nothing further then keeping conditions clean is necessary to promote breeding. As mouth brooders, females will incubate and hatch the eggs in her buchal pouch, and then continue to hold the fry until the yolk sacs have been consumed. A typical holding period for this cichlid is 4 weeks, and the female will not eat during

Tropical Fish Secrets this time. Once spit, fry are left to fend for themselves. In order to raise fry the female should be separated into a holding tank, and removed once the fry have been spit. Fry can be fed powdered cichlid food along with baby brine shrimp, mysis, or cyclops as supplements. Common name: Frontosa Cichlid Scientific name:Cyphotilapia frontosa, Cypho means “hump” tilapia means “fish” (African), species: Blue Mpimbwe, Blue Zaire, Burundi, Kasanga, Kigoma, Kipili, Zaire and Zambia. Family: Cichlidae Origin: Lake Tanganyika (Africa) Maximum size: male 16” female 10” Care: Temperature of 72-83F: water parameters should be pH-7.8-9.5: 10-20dH: prefers hard alkaline water. Just like in nature frontosa are gentle to other tank mates. This means they can be kept in a smaller tank than say an oscar even though they reach a similar size. Even if a frontosa can be successfully kept in a 48" long tank (such as a 90 gallon) however a larger tank is definitely going to be more comfortable for them. Their tank should be decorated with a lot of rocks that form caves. The females usually do not need places to hide, but the male may need and it is recommended for him to have a large cave to hide in when he needs a retreat. The rocks in the aquarium should be well stabilized in your aquarium, frontosa are very powerful and can dig under the rocks causing them to topple….we don’t need a broken tank now do we?!!! Although frontosa do not tear up, or eat plants, but they will definitely dig them up, no matter how well you anchored them, I am constantly having to replace mine!!! In tanks larger than 200 gallons, frontosa can be kept in groups of 10 or more. Such a group can even contain more than one male. If kept in a smaller tank, smaller groups should also be kept, for example; one male and 3-4 females. Sexing frontosa is known to be quite difficult and confusing….the most obvious is the hump, which is normally larger on males, but also can be quite large on females as well. The most effective way is to study genitals, if you know what you are looking for!!! Frontosa is and can be peaceful in aquarium, although two males of the same size can often threaten each other, most of the time neither of the two will suffer from any harm. Often the smaller one gives up and swims away instead of fighting. The problem is the defeated frontosa has nowhere to go. In the wild, the battles are usually over territory. When a frontosa loses a battle, he is expected to move on and never be seen again by the victorious one, however, in an aquarium, that is pretty impossible and they will probably fight again and again. You may need to separate them, or take in either one to the lfs for a trade. Feeding Frontosa like to eat fish, attacking sleeping fish in the night. (sneaky) They need nutritious food; I give them frozen food, such as fish, (sometimes other cichlid fry) brine shrimp, and blood worms. They will also happily consume packaged foods in great quantities. Hikari is tops in my frontosa’s books!!! Sexing and breeding: Mouth brooders generally are not very particular about

Tropical Fish Secrets spawning sites, but frontosa clearly like flat sandy areas best where they can dig small pits. However, they will also spawn on a gravelly bottom. It is a good idea to locate such spawning sites in the protective area of rock structures or plants. After circling each other, the two fish will suddenly face each other, and in a typical cichlid manner, "lock jaws," (aka mouth-fight). As soon as a strong grip is made they will twist and turn each other for as long as a minute, testing each other's strength. Some people say that if they are able to maintain the grip for a substantial period of time, the pair will immediately proceed with spawning, but this has not been proven. The locking of jaws may continue for a week or so until the next step is taken. The actual spawning is very interesting: the female will deposit a few eggs in a depression in the substrate, then, the male will follow and fertilize them. After a number of deposits of this sort the female will pick up the eggs in her mouth and then the mouth brooding process begins…..but may not last. Frontosa are sometimes very nervous about the reproduction cycle and may either spit the eggs or eat them if spooked….as I have learned from personal experience. I have had a failed example and need to decide what to do for next time. If all goes well naturally, the female will release the fry and they will more than enjoy having a first meal of newly hatched brine shrimp. They will also eat large infusoria and protozoans. After a few weeks they are able to take fine dry foods and larger crustaceans like Daphnia. The fry grow very quickly and as soon as the fry have been left alone by their parents, they should be given their own tank to grow out in, after a while it is suggested that the fry be sorted by size to give them more tank room and keep the larger fry from being too competitive for food, also to protect them from being eaten by anonymous passer-bys!!! Even though frontosa are supposed to raise their young ones until they are old enough and large enough to fend for themselves, others abandon their spawn under week after they have lost their yolk-sacs and reached the free-swimming stage. This is why stripping the female and artificial incubation is sometimes a must… Common name/s: Kenyi Scientific name:Maylandia Lombardoi Family:Cichlidae Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa Maximum size: 6" Care: This is an extremely aggressive species from the mbuna family, and their hostile nature must be taken into consideration before buying them. Unfortunately they are very widely distributed and sold to unsuspecting fish keepers all too often. The minimum recommended tank size for these fish is a four foot 75 gallon. The aquarium should be decorated with a number of hiding spots including caves of various sizes. Sand substrate is appreciated by these fish, but is not necessary. Lombardoi are best kept in water with a PH of 7.5 or higher, at a temperature between 75° and 80°. These cichlids should only be kept with mbuna of similarly high aggression levels, and overcrowding is very important to keep sub-dominant fish from getting overly harassed. Proper diet and clean conditions are very important for the long term health of this fish. Feeding: This species is omnivorous. Spirulina flake should make up the

Tropical Fish Secrets majority of the diet, but a high quality cichlid pellet or flake is also recommended. Fresh vegetables and live or frozen invertebrates may be supplemented. Sexing and breeding: All Lombardoi are born blue with dark striping. As they mature, males take on a very nice orange, while females retain the original blue coloring. Note that it is not unusual, under certain conditions, for these fish to take on the coloring of the opposite sex, usually as a method of avoiding aggression. As mouth brooders, females will incubate and hatch the eggs in her buchal pouch, and then continue to hold the fry until the yolk sacs have been consumed. A typical holding period for this cichlid is under 4 weeks, and the female will not eat during this time. Females become extremely territorial when holding. Once spit, fry are left to fend for themselves. In order to raise fry the female should be separated into a holding tank, and removed once the fry have been spit. Fry can be fed powdered spirulina and cichlid foods as well as baby brine shrimp. Common name/s: Kribensis, Purple Cichlid Scientific name:Pelvicachromis pulcher Family:Cichlidae Origin: Nigeria, Cameroon, West African, Riverine species Maximum size: 4" Care: The Krib is a popular cichlid for beginer breeders. It hails from West Africa, and is found in rivers. The fish are usually found in fresh water, though they have been found in Brackish water. They like soft water, and their Ph should be around neutral, though they can have a higher Ph up to 8, and one down to 5. They are relatively peaceful, though they should not be kept with some peaceful fish such as the guppies. A good tank mate would be the black skirt tetra, and other mildly aggressive fish as such. Despite being African cichlids, they should not be kept with Mbuna, or other rift lake vally cichlids. The minimum tank size for a pair is 20 gallons. Feeding: You should give your kribs a mixed diet, as they are omnivores. They will nibble at live plants, but will also eat live worms. They will also eat live bearer fry, and small ghost shrimp. Sexing and breeding: There are a few ways to distinguish the genders of the fish. One way is the by the fins. The males usually have a pointed dorsal fin as well as tail fin. The females have "eye" spots on their dorsal fin. They also have a rounded dorsal and tail fin. Males are also bigger than the females. The females will also have a red round stomach. After a while of the male and female being together they should pair up. It works best to have the largest male and the smallest female together to make it happen faster. This is to lessen the aggression of the female, as larger females may injure the smaller male. Once paired up the pair will breed about every few weeks. The female will disappear for about five days. At this time she will be fanning eggs that she laid. They will be in a cave. The male will be guarding the cave entrance. After the 5 days are up the eggs should hatch. They will be in the wiggler stage for about 3-5 days after. Once the wiggler stage is over the fish will be free swimming, schooling with the parents. At night the parents will pick up the fry in their mouth and return

Tropical Fish Secrets them to the cave that they were born in, unless you renovate the cave. The fry have slow growth after a while. Common name: ”multifasciatus big eye” Scientific name: Lamprologus similis Family: Cichlidae Origin: Lake Tanganyika (Africa) Maximum size: One of the world’s smallest cichlids males about 4.5 cm (1.8 in.) females 3 cm (1.2 in.). The aquarium: Being one of the smallest cichlids in the world similis can be kept in a relatively small tank. I wouldn’t recommend anything under 10 gallon though. However do not attempt to keep more than one male in such a small tank. Like any tanganyikan cichlid the tank setup is rocks & sand. Always cushion the rocks on polystyrene or risk breaking your tank. Do several foundations like this for your big rocks to put smaller rocks on. When you are finished with your rocks THEN add sand. This way your fish won’t knock over the piles of rocks when they dig. I’ve seen internet sites advocating not using sand to prevent the cichlids from digging. Personally I think it’s a bit un-ethical, besides why keep a cichlid that loves to dig if you can’t stand it? However you decide to decorate your tank it is a good idea to put some single rocks scattered across the tank, this will help to divide up territories. The last things to add are the shells, and plenty of them. Similis is a shell dweller; they use their shells for protection and to lay their eggs in. You will need 2-3 shells per shell dweller but you can never have too many. Plants: Keeping plants in a Tanganyikan tank is a challenge since the water is (supposed to be at least) hard. Then we have that (in) famous digging, after a few days a lot of the plants would most likely bee floating around. There are a few that can work though. For me it is the anubias species and java fern. Since they can be attached to rocks the fish will leave them alone. I’ve also heard the vallisneria species will do fine, if you put them in between the rock piles they might stay in place. Care & Company: Since they require a special tank you might be put of thinking this fish is very hard to keep. But in my opinion it’s quite easy to keep as long as you provide the correct environment. Feed them spirulina flakes and brine shrimps (frozen food). As with all aquarium fish regular water changes are required. These fish are territorial but these territories are quite small and the fish is best kept in small groups (6-8 fish or more). Water should be hard. 7.8 or higher if possible (up to 9). Temp: 23 – 26 Celsius. Even if it is a very small cichlid they can be kept with a lot of other species of tanganyikan fish as long as the tank is big enough and the other fish aren’t so big they think of the small shell dwellers as food. Otherwise this fish really proves that size doesn’t matter and will chase away fish several times their size if they

Tropical Fish Secrets come to close to its shell. Interesting behaviors: This is (in my opinion) best thing about these little fish. People who love aquascaping might be disappointed since these fish will do this for them! I tried to make a nice smooth layer of sand about 3 inches thick and after a week the fish had moved the sand into huge piles in some places and deeper pits in others. As said before these fish will dig a LOT, attempting to “correct” the way they build their sand piles is useless since they will move the sand back again over night. The shells play a very important part in this fish’s lives since they practically spend their whole life in and around their shells. They usually dig a small pit so that the shell is below the sand surface (less obvious to predators). Breeding: They are quite easy to breed. If they are kept in hard water with plenty of shells they will most likely breed. The couple will dig a “nest” (big pit with a shell in), even if they live in separate shells the breeding take place in the female's shell were she lays her eggs. The fry will eat the same food as grown fish. Usually they have between 5-20 fry, they can have new fry every third week if you are lucky (or unlucky depending on if you want them or not). If you want to make sure as many as possible of the fry survive keep the couple in a separate tank. If they are kept in a larger community tank it might be hard to make sure the fry get their share of the food. These fish are very good parents and the fry will stay in or very close to their mothers shell and will be guarded by their parents. Final note: Lamprologus similis are often mixed up with Lamprologus multifasciatus (the common name suggests they are the same species). I’ve only kept the similis but they are supposed to be very similar as far as care and breeding are concerned. Since I don’t have a digital camera I can’t post a picture but the similis have a few extra stripes on their head. Some shops sell these fish simply as “shelldwellers”. Of course this is almost as dumb as selling them as “some kind of African fish”. There are several kinds of shell dwellers make sure you get the kind you wanted! Common name/s:Electric Blue Johanni* Scientific name:Melanochromis Johannii Family: Cichlidae Origin: Lake Malawi (Africa) Maximum size: 6" Care: These fish require a tank of at least 30 gallons, and prefer other cichlids of the mbuna family. One of the more popular of African cichlids, you will probably be able to find this fish in one of your LFS. They are decently Hardy, and can take a little bit of a beginners' mistakes. Prefers a PH of about 8. These fish usually swim around the middle, or lower levels of the tank. Prefers a temp of around 78-82 degrees F. Feeding: Feed daily. Eats pellets, sticks, flakes, blood worms and baby shrimp. Sexing and breeding: Easy to breed, this fish will produce about a dozen or

Tropical Fish Secrets more with each batch of fry. Since these fish are mouth brooders the female is best removed to another tank, and when she stops feeding and her brood pouch (Buchal Pouch)is full. After 14 days or so, the female will spit out her fully formed fry, and quickly lose interest in them. You can put her back in your main tank. The fry are pretty big already, so you can just feed them broken up flakes. Common name/s - Brichardi Scientific name - Neolamprologus brichardi Family - Cichlidae Origin - Lake Tanganyika, Africa Maximum size - 12cm Water Parameters - Hard water, pH 7.5 - 8.5, temperature 24 - 28 degrees Care - These fish are extremely easy to keep, even outside their preferred water parameters (given above). Ideally they should be kept with other Tanganyikan Cichlids in a community tank. Feeding - Will happily accept frozen, dried and live foods. Sexing and breeding - Juvenille males and females of similar appearance. Mature males have elongated fin rays on the anal, caudal and tail fins. In healthy specimens there males are more colourful. These fish are extremely easy to breed, often taking over a community aquarium due to their rapid increase in numbers. Eggs are laid on the underside of caves or in shells and are of a pale blue colour. It is not uncommon for fish to produce another clutch of eggs directly after the first has hatched, particularly if there are young from previous clutches to assist in the protection and rearing of the fry. These fish can successfully rear the fry of their own accord in a community tank with no special treatment from the aquarist. Common name/s - Multifasciatus or Multies Scientific name - Neolamprologus multifasciatus Family - Cichlidae Origin - Lake Tanganyika, Africa Maximum size - 5cm Difficulty - Very hardy, readily accept most prepared and live foods. Omnivorous. Water Parameters - Hard water with a high range pH 7.5 - 8.5 , temperature 24 - 28 degrees Feeding - Frozen, dried and live foods all readily accepted. Sexing - Males are usually of a slightly larger and stocky nature (although still quite small - they are one of the smallest rift lake cichlids) It is easier to sex animals that you can view together as differences are subtle and difficult to detect unless observed in conjunction with behaviour. Males tend to dominate female fish. Breeding - These fish are not difficult to breed. Being shell dwellers it is less likely to have any success without shells available for the fish to live in. Each fish will require its own shell. Ideally shells should be of freshwater origin and around six cm across. Males will display in front of the females shell usually by shivering at the mouth of

Tropical Fish Secrets the shell. The female will return dancing if she considers him a suitable mate. After a few days of this courtship eggs will be laid. The territory during this period will be ferociously guarded by the male who will not hesitate to take on much larger and aggressive cichlids (if housed in a community tank) When the eggs hatch it is not uncommon not to see any of the juvs for a period of a week as they will seek shelter in / around the shells of the parents. Often once these cichlids start breeding they will continue developing a large family group of cichlids with older siblings assisting in the care of new hatched fish. General Comments - These fish are extremely good candidates for a tanganyikan cichlid community. Whilst (as with most African cichilds) it will aggressively defend its territory it is a small fish and unlikely to actually cause any damage to other cichlids. Do not keep with larger piscivorous cichlids as it may be eaten without a shell to shelter in. Common name/s: Rusty Scientific name:Iodotropheus Sprengerae Family:Cichlidae Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa Maximum size: 5" Care: This is a mildly aggressive species from the mbuna family, and a good choice for a less aggressive mbuna aquarium. The minimum recommended tank size for these fish is 30 gallons. The aquarium should be decorated with a number of hiding spots including caves of various sizes. Sand substrate is appreciated by these fish, but is not necessary. Rusty’s are best kept in water with a PH of 7.5 or higher, at a temperature between 75° and 80°. These cichlids can be housed with mbuna of a milder temperament, and should not be housed with anything overly aggressive. Proper diet and clean conditions are very important for the long term health of this fish. Feeding: As an omnivorous species, a diet of spirulina flake, along with a high quality cichlid pellet or flake is best. Fresh vegetables and live or frozen invertebrates may be supplemented. Sexing and breeding: Iodo. Sprengarae is typically a dark brown when young. As they mature they turn to a rusty orange color, often with a violet tint. They are a uniquely colored species, unlike any other mbuna. These fish are extremely difficult to sex, especially when young, but their fairly passive nature allows for multiple males to co-exist in the same tank with minimal aggression. As mouth brooders, females will incubate and hatch the eggs in her buchal pouch, and then continue to hold the fry until the yolk sacs have been consumed. A typical holding period for this cichlid is 4 weeks, and the female will not eat during this time, though they seem to be adept at sneaking in the occasional flake. Once spit, fry are left to fend for themselves. In order to raise fry the female should be separated into a holding tank, and removed once the fry have been spit. Fry can be fed powdered spirulina and cichlid foods as well as baby brine shrimp.

Tropical Fish Secrets Common name/s: Saulosi Scientific name:Pseudotropheus Saulosi Family:Cichlidae Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa Maximum size: 4" Care: This is a small and moderately aggressive species from the mbuna family, and a good choice for a typical mbuna aquarium. The minimum recommended tank size for these fish is 30 gallons. The aquarium should be decorated with a number of hiding spots including caves of various sizes. Sand substrate is appreciated by these fish, but is not necessary. Saulosi are best kept in water with a PH of 7.5 or higher, at a temperature between 75° and 80°. These cichlids can be housed with mbuna of similar aggression and different markings, and hyper-aggressive species should be avoided. Proper diet and clean conditions are very important for the long term health of this fish. Feeding: As a mostly herbivorous species, the primary diet of Saulosi should be a high quality spirulina flake. Fresh vegetables may be supplemented. To much meaty food will cause a fatal digestive condition known as 'bloat'. Sexing and breeding: All Saulosi are born a deep yellow. As males mature they morph into a bold blue with black stripes. Because of the aggressive nature of the males, at least two females for each are recommended. When males are kept in close quarters the subdominants will display fainter blue coloring, or may even take on the orange coloring of females in order to avoid the aggression of the dominant male. Only one male is recommended for tanks less under 50 gallons. As mouth brooders, females will incubate and hatch the eggs in her buchal pouch, and then continue to hold the fry until the yolk sacs have been consumed. A typical holding period for this cichlid is 3-3.5 weeks, and the female will not eat during this time. Once spit, fry are left to fend for themselves. In order to raise fry the female should be separated into a holding tank, and removed once the fry have been spit. Fry can be fed powdered spirulina food.

Cichlids- Central and South America

Tropical Fish Secrets Common Name: Angelfish Scientific Name: Pterophyllum Scalare Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America Maximum Size: 5-8 Inches in captivity Care: This fish is generally peaceful, but will get aggressive in spawning. These fish are one of the most popular tropical fish out there. With there beautiful triangle shape and long lace ventrals, no one can resist bringing these guys home. These fish come in many variables including Gold, Albino , and black. This fish are starting to be one of the most popular fish in the world. Feeding: This fish will be alright with flakes, but they do prefer live or frozen foods. My angels LOVE bloodworms and earthworms. Sexing: Sexing this fish is impossible, except when breeding. Breeding: This fish is a cichlid, and like many of them, once a pair is formed they will be strongly bonded to each other. They will lay eggs on a leaf, mostly Amazons, but they will mostly put them on the corner of the tank. The parents will protect there eggs and fry from the other fish. They are some cases were the parents will even kill fishes 4 times there sizes just to protect their babies.

Common name/s: Apisto Panduro, Panda Apisto Scientific name: Apistogramma Panduro Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, Rio Tahuayo (Lower Rio Ucayali, Peru) Maximum size: 3.5 inches Care:These Apistos prefer soft water and a PH level of 6.5. A good tank temperature is 80°F. A good tank size is 20 gallons as a minimum and like to be kept in pairs of trios (1male:2females).Although beware, these Apistos are aggressive towards other Apisto species, namly females but are not aggressive towards other non Apisto tank mates. They like lots of plants (their natural substrate in leaf litter, but is not needed), rocks, caves and wood to swim about. They're a peaceful fish but can get territorial at times, like all cichlids do. They come out a lot when there are other fish such as tetras like the Neon that are also swimming about which tells them everything is safe. They shouldn't be kept with large and aggressive fish and make great community additions. Feeding: Frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworm, they also take flakes and pellets. Sexing: Females are bright yellow with black markings on its chest areas, Males are blue and brown colours. Breeding: PH should be left at 6.5 and water hardness should be at 50ppm and feed frozen live and add freeze dried food to the mix. Lower the temperature and add cold water to the tank. They will spawn in caves and are very good parents. Once the eggs are hatched and the fry are free swimming (usually after 6 days), they should be fed freshly hatched brine shrimp, vinegar eels and micro worms. Comments: Often confused with the Apistogramma nijsseni, the males look very much alike and both species are called Panda Apistos.

Tropical Fish Secrets Common name/s: Apisto Blue Head Scientific name: Apistogramma Resticulosa Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, Lower Rio Mamoré (Brazil/Bolivia) Maximum Size: 2.5" Care:"Blue Heads" (so called because their body is mainly a dull grey in colour and then a shiny metallic blue on its head) like their water soft and a PH no less then 7 and no more then 7.5. The tank temperature should be set at 80°F and any colder will cause problems with fish, often resulting in death. Their natural habitat has little to no current so that should be tried to be kept to a minimum. Also in the wild, they live among roots and wood, so in the aquaria a lot of wood should be used along with floating plants and caves. Feeding: Frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworm, they also take flakes and pellets. Sexing: Females usually have yellow on their chest and head while the males have the blue (mentioned above). Breeding: PH topped at 7.5 and feed frozen live and add freeze dried food to the mix. Lower the temperature and add cold water to the tank. They will spawn in caves and are very good parents. Once the eggs are hatched, they should be fed freshly hatched brine shrimp, vinegar eels and micro worms. Comments: They are fairly new to the trade and haven’t been for sale long. One of the peaceful Apistogramma and barely aggressive, they only show some signs of aggression when breeding. Common name - Blue Acara Scientific name - Aequidens pulcher Family - Cichlidae. Origin - Central American areas ;Colombia, Panama, Trinidad, Tobago, Venezuela Max size - 8" in captivity Care - This beautiful fish will be peaceful with other New World Cichlids of similar size or bigger, but they will get aggressive during breeding time. They prefer 72-80°F and a ph of 6.5-8.0. The will need a 50 gallon or higher tank as they do grow big and need their space. They will not get along with community fish such as livebearers, and will have these fish as their lunch. They like sandy bottoms and lots of rocks and caves. Plants should be kept in pots as the roots will get eaten Feeding - The Blue Acara is omnivorous and will eat most prepared and frozen foods, including freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex, and ocean plankton, as well as flake food and Cichlid pellets. Sexing - When sexing the Blue Acara the anal and dorsal fins are longer, often extending beyond the caudal fin, on the male. Breeding - The Blue Acara is an open-breeder and will accept a range of water conditions. To promote breeding, raise aquarium temperature to 78-82°F. The

Tropical Fish Secrets Blue Acara readily pairs and forms a patriarch/matriarch family and both the male and female will care for the young. The female will lay the eggs on a cleaned rock. They will spawn about every two weeks if the young are removed from the aquarium. Both Male and female will be aggressive when caring for young Common name: Bolivan, Red, Butterfly Ram Scientific name: Microgeophagus altispinosa Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, Brazil Maximum size: 3.5" Temperature: 74-79 F Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons Care: Bolivian Rams are easier to care for and hardier then other rams. A slight change in ph or temperature will not harm this fish. They are a peaceful cichlid that do well in community tanks with fish such as; larger tetras, gourami, catfish, and danios. They enjoy tanks with plenty of hiding places and rocks and leaves to spawn on. They have an average life span of 4 years and occupy the bottom and middle areas of the tank. Feeding: Flake, brine shrimp, bloodworms, cichlid pellets Sexing: Males and females are very similar in color and size. Males have a longer dorsal and caudual fin. Males are sometimes larger then females and display more color. Breeding: Spawn on smooth stones and leaves. A female can lay up to 200 eggs but 50-75 eggs are average. Parents will clean and fan the eggs. Eggs hatch within 72 hours and fry should be fed vinegar eels as a first food. Common name - Checkerboard cichlid Scientific name - Dicrossus filamentosus Family - Cichlidae. Origin -South America; Rio Negro & Rio Orinoco river Max size - 3" in captivity Care - These little fish are a very peaceful species that will go with most community fish like Blue Rams. They will be most comfortable in a temp of 72-80°F and a ph of 5-6.The will need a 20 gallon or higher tank. They like sandy bottoms (gravel is okay) and some caves and plants for them to take cover in. Feeding - A good quality tropical flake or granule plus frozen shrimp & worm foods, daphnia, beef heart. Sexing - When sexing the Checkerd Board, Males are larger and more colourful, also with more pointed fins. Breeding - The female deposits up to 120 eggs on flat stones or leaves, the eggs are yellowish. You should remove the male after spawning is over. The incubation period is about 72 hours (three days); you should feed the fry brine shrimp. A good temperature to raise the temp is 80-84F and a P.H of 5.5 will do fine.

Tropical Fish Secrets Common name/s: Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid Scientific name: Apistogramma cacatuoides Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, Amazon/tributaries Maximum size: Males 3 1/2" Females 2" Care: Moderate, prefer soft acidic water but are more tolerant of higher pH and hardness than most Apistogramma. Do not like toxins or pollutants in the water, including medications and nitrates/phosphates etc. Although they may act aggressively towards other fish, they usually do not do damage. Does best with two or more females per male, with each female having at least one cave. The male will defend a 'super territory' around the smaller female territories. Feeding: Frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworm are readily accepted, may need a lot of persuasion to accept flakes and pellets. Sexing: Highly dimorphic, males are much larger and more colourful than females, and also have very long extensions to the dorsal fin. Females are pale to high yellow depending on breeding condition and stay quite small. Breeding: Quite easy to spawn for this genus, soft acidic water will increase chance of successful hatching. Female will lay 50-100 eggs in a cave or structure that can be defended, male will guard territory. Eggs hatch after 4-5 days of constant care and fanning by the female, after a further two days the fry should be ready to accept newly hatched brine shrimp. Both parents may care for the young although the female may drive the male away violently. If this happens, separate the male. The female leads the fry through the tank foraging for food and protects them for up to four weeks. Comments: Many colour variants are available, double and triple reds and orange sunburst are quite common. Most are tank bred and wild fish can be rare. Common name - Convict Cichlid. Scientific name - Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum. Family - Cichlidae. Origin - Guatemala, Salvador, Costa Rica, Panama. Max size - 6". Care - True to its name this is a very aggressive fish which is not ideal for a community tank; the tank should be at least 30 US gallons, with a temperature of 74-79 F. They enjoy plenty of hiding places. All rockwork and decorations should be well seated, as they will dig and displace them. Feeding - Convicts will eat most forms of prepared food as well as frozen and live foods. Vegetables should also be added to keep them in prime condition. Sexing - One of the easiest cichlid to determine sex. During the breeding period females will have gold/red spots on her sides and belly. The males’ normally dark bars will become metallic silver. Breeding - Convicts are notoriously easy to breed. Ideally a species tank dedicated to just them will be the ideal situation. Females will lay between 40-100 eggs and it takes about 2-3 days before free-swimming fry are seen. The pair become very aggressive at this time and will not hesitate to attack any other fish which is "to close". Fry can be fed almost any form of "fry" food, as well as

Tropical Fish Secrets crushed flake food and cucumber. Caution - while breeding pairs of convicts are usually good partners, there can be aggression among the pair. A method to separate the pair if this happens is very advisable. Common name/s: Demon fish, Demon earth eater, Satans perch Scientific name: Satanoperca leucosticta, often wrongly named Geophagus jurapari Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, Amazon basin Maximim size: 10" Care: The fish is best kept in small groups and so a large tank of at least 75 gallons is recommended. The fish sifts through the substrate continuously so a sand substrate should be used to prevent them from damaging their mouths, for this reason they are also not recommended for planted tanks where they can damage root systems. The fish does not do well in hard alkaline water so the pH should be kept below 7.5 with hardness under 15 GH, keep the temperature between 24 and 26 centigrade (74-79f). Although not an aggressive fish they can be territorial especially against other earth eaters. Feeding: Live and frozen foods of all kinds are accepted. Sexing: Females are plumper; males have a longer and more pointed anal fin. Breeding: Rare but can be done; the species is a mouth brooder. Comments: Unlike African mouth brooders the fish only begin mouth brooding after the fry have hatched. The fish does not tolerate temperature drops well so care should be taken when doing water changes. Common name/s: Discus (Blue, Green, Brown, hybrid Discus), Pompadour Fish Scientific name: Symphysodon discus, Symphysodon aequifasciatus aequifasciatus, Symphysodon aequifasciatus haraldi, Symphysodon discus willischwartzi Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, black water Amazon/tributaries Maximim size: 8-10" Care: Moderate, easy when acclimatized and Discus specific basic care is strictly observed. Not forgiving of mistakes with water parameters, therefore not beginner’s fish. Prone to bacterial build up in water, and Hole in the Head disease (Hexamatia). Both can be avoided largely through attentive care of the water. Small fish should be kept in groups (the larger the better) older fish can be kept singly or in pairs, groups in large tanks. Mature fish prefer soft acidic water (wild fish will thrive in pH down to 4.5) while young fish need slightly hard water for proper growth. Most tanks bred Discus will accept a pH up to 7.6 after careful acclimatization. At any pH above 7, extra special care to eliminate/prevent ammonia is crucial. Water must be warm, 86F/30C is ideal, with gentle water flow. Provide plenty of cover with bogwood, roots and carefully chosen plants that can tolerate heat. Tank mates should be non-aggressive, unimposing fish. Avoid very active fish,

Tropical Fish Secrets for first time keepers, species tank is preferred. Water changes of 50% tank volume per week is recommended, with more frequent, smaller changes being preferred (i.e. 20% every second day). Feeding: Frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworm are readily accepted, but do not contain enough protein for vital energy. Most accept quality flake and pellet food, check protein content around 50%. Beef heart or turkey heart are readily accepted but are messy, recommended for bare bottom tanks only. Tetra Prima granules highly recommended. Variety and balance is the key. Sexing: Very difficult except at breeding times, males will develop protruding breeding tube which is short and pointed, females breeding tube is longer and thicker, rounded. All other methods of sexing are unreliable. Breeding: May spawn if conditions are favourable, raising young fish can be difficult. Rows of eggs will be laid on flat surfaces such as vertical bogwood and large leaf plants. Both parents care for the eggs and fry, parents will darken in colour as a mucous is excreted from the skin, the young fish will eat this mucous as a first food. Newly hatched brine shrimp will be taken as they develop. Comments: Beautiful fish that requires dedication. Not quite as difficult as its reputation, but beginners should make the inevitable mistakes with hardier (and less expensive!) fish before moving on to Discus. Calm and observant demeanor, Discus will look at you as much as you look at them! Some form of tap water filtration method is highly recommended (Reverse Osmosis being ideal) to remove metals that can affect nervous system and other pollutants. Common name - Festivum Cichlid Scientific name - Mesonauta Festiva,Cichlasoma festivae Family - Cichlidae. Origin - South American, widely spread through the Amazon, West Guyana Max size - 8" female and 6" male. Care - The Festivum is, despite its size, a very peaceful fish and also very timid. They like to hide out in sheltered areas such as caves, rocks/stones or bog wood. They like to have a temp. between 72-77 degrees. They also like a pH of 6.5-8.0. A recommended tank size for beginners is 50 gallons but can live in smaller tanks while they are young. (No smaller then 25 gals.) Feeding - Most foods will be accepted by these fish. I.e. flakes, frozen or live. Sexing - The males are green with out with out bars and females are red orange with heavy dark barring. Breeding -Festivum Cichlids are open breeders and the female will drop from 600-1,000 eggs on rocks and roots. The female who will circulate water over the eggs by fanning them with her fins, carefully guarding them in pits. Common name: Firemouth, Meeki Scientific name: Thorichthys meeki Family: Cichlidae Origin: Guatemala Maximum size: 6 inches (15cm) Temperature: 75-79

Tropical Fish Secrets Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons Care: Provide plenty of hiding places with rocks. Make sure all rocks are secure because the fish will dig around them. Use a fine sand substrate, Firemouths like to dig. Recommended in a species only tank or with similar sized cichlids of the same temperament. Larger catfish are also compatible. Keep a fairly neutral ph between 6.5 and 7.5 but 7.0 is recommended. Feeding: Cichlid flakes, ghost shrimp, bloodworms. Feeder guppies for larger Firemouths. Sexing: Females noticeably duller and silver in color. Males have a red throat and chest, females usually do not. Males have pointed anal and dorsal fin Breeding: Female cleans smooth rocks and lays 100-300 eggs on a rock. Fry hatch at about 72 hours and can be fed finely crushed flakes and newly hatched brine shrimp as first foods. Common name: German Blue Ram Scientific name: Microgeophagus ramirezi Family: Cichlidae Origin: Venezuela Maximum size: 3 inches Temperature: 80 degrees Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons Care: This fish is very sensitive to water quality. As long as you keep the water soft and the temperature stable, these are an easy fish to care for. A "community" cichlid that does well with fish such as tetras, gourami, danios, and catfish. Feeding: Doesn't readily accept flakes but with a little coaxing you can get them to accept them. They like bloodworms and other live foods. Sexing: Females have a pink belly and are fatter. The dorsal rays are also shorter. Males have longer black dorsal rays and a more of a yellow tint to their bodies. Males are sometimes larger than females. Breeding: Spawn on rocks and leaves. Males and females will clean and prepare the surface before spawning. Spawns usually yeilds between 25-50 eggs. Very caring parents that do not eat their fry. You can observe them "fanning" their eggs with their fins. They are very impressive parents. Eggs hatch in 24-48 hours after spawning and mother and father continue to care for the fry until they are able to eat on their own. Common name:Jack dempsy Scientific name: Nandopsis Family: Cichlidae Origin: Central America Max Size: 9" Temp:72-78 F. Care: The Dempsey is definitely not for the community tank. While they may be kept with other fish of similar size, the Dempsey is best kept in a species tank. Their aggressiveness should never be underestimated, and increases largely

Tropical Fish Secrets during spawning; a minimum tank size of 45g is needed for a single fish. The Dempsey tank should have a thick layer of gravel, 4-5", with rocks of various sizes and caves for hiding places. Due to the digging nature of this fish, any plants which you might have in the tank should be well rooted, and do not be surprised if they are torn up every once in a while. Pre-soaked clay flower pots make for wonderful hiding places, as well as a good place for them to lay their eggs. These fish are from the area of Central America, they should have mildly hard water, with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Although water conditions are not as strict as with other fish, they will be happier and healthier with the right water chemistry. Feeding: Omnivorous This fish is not usually very picky about what it eats, although it may take some time for them to adjust to a different food they are changing from a consistent diet. It is best to vary their diet, alternating between pellets, guppies, shrimp, lettuce, earthworms, snails, and most other crustaceans. This will provide them with the nutrients they need to become healthy, colorful adults. Breeding: Jack Dempseys spawn in the usual Cichlid fashion, the female laying her eggs on carefully cleaned rocks usually a smooth slate or clay pot. The adults are model parents and both guard and care for the young. Sexing the Jack Dempsey becomes increasingly difficult the younger the fish is. The most obvious ways to tell are with the male having longer and more pointed dorsal and anal fins, a longer body, and less blue-green coloration on the gill plate. The body of the female is squatter than that of the male, and the dorsal and anal fins are shorter as well. Common name -Keyhole Cichlid Scientific name - Cleithracara maronii Family - Cichlidae. Origin - South American areas, Orinoco delta in Venezuela Max size - 5" in captivity Care - This dwarf acara is generally peaceful with all fish, and good for communitys. They're very shy so should have lots of cover, rocks and plants, in the tank. The absolute minimum tank size for this fish is 20 gals. no less then that. They prefer a temp of 80°F and a ph of 7.5. As I said before they are peaceful with other fish and adding a school of tetras is known to make the fish less shy towards tank mates. Feeding - as these fish are omnivores and will eat almost all frozen food and will also eat pellets and tropical fish flakes. Sexing - Males are larger and their dorsal fin is more pointed. Mature females are plumper than males. Breeding - Despite their generally peaceful nature, Keyholes can become quite territorial breeding time. Eggs are laid on pre-cleaned stones (flat and rounded). The parents will guard the fry and the eggs.

Tropical Fish Secrets Common name - Midas Cichlid Scientific name - Amphilophus citrinellus/Amphilophus citrinellum Family - Cichlidae. Origin - Central America, southern Mexico, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Honduras. Max size - 12 inches (30 cm). Care - This large aggressive fish is not for peaceful tanks. It can only be housed in tanks that are 75 gallons or more. Recommended tank mates are larger cichlids i.e. red devils, jaguars, Oscars. or convicts and severums. They like a tank temp. of 72-79° F. The Midas Cichlid is also often confused with the red devil, even though these two fish are inbred and sometimes sold as one or the other. Feeding - Live earthworms, insects, and vegetables, frozen and freeze-dried. Sexing - Males are larger with a larger hump on their fore head. It also has longer fins than the female. The female will grow a hump but the males one will be larger Breeding - Male midas will kill the female if she isn't ready. If they do breed, they will use a vertical structure most of the time. The male will defend the territory while the female will guard the eggs. Eggs hatch in 3 days and are free swimming in 5. Feed the fry at this time with small live foods. Common Name: Oscar Scientific Name: Astronotus ocellatus Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America; Orinoco to Rio Paraguay; Amazon Max Size: 12 - 14 inches (30 - 35 cm) Care: Oscars are truly a magnificent fish. Given the best care Oscar's will be your companion for up to and sometimes over ten years! Oscars should be kept in a species tank as they can be quite aggressive, and will kill and /or eat any fish small enough to fit in their mouth. They can be kept with fish of like size, but you should exercise caution when doing this as aggression issues can occur. Possible tank mates include Jack Dempsey, Convicts (one or more of the same sex, as a breeding pair will become VERY aggressive), Tinfoil Barbs, Silver Dollars, Spotted Silver Dollars, Bala Sharks, Common Plecostomus, Clown Loaches, Pictus Catfish, and African Brown Knife. Do understand that some of these possible tank mates are schooling fish or the fish can get quite large so do your research on size and minimum tank requirements before you add them with an Oscar. Oscars require a minimum tank size of 75 U.S. gallons or bigger for ONE Oscar. Remember, bigger is always better. A good filter and regular water changes are required as Oscars are messy fish. They spit out as much food as they eat and they produce a great deal of waste. Oscars can and do sulk for any reason. A simple change in environment can set up a sulking phase. Usually there is no need to worry about this, as it is natural, but it is always a good idea to check things like incorrect water temperature, too much food, new surroundings, poor water conditions, etc. Water temperature between 72-79F, and pH range between 6.0 - 8.0 and dH range between 5.0 - 19.0. Oscars are clumsy fish so you should stay away from sharp decor. They are also destructive

Tropical Fish Secrets so live plants are not advised. Under gravel filters are not a good choice with Oscars as they are diggers. Feeding: Oscars need a varied and interesting diet to promote good health. Some sort of cichlid pellets (such as Hakari Cichlid Staple) is great as the main part of their diet, but they also need live foods to promote good digestion. Good choices are crickets, insects, worms, and sometimes feeder fish. It is best to raise your own feeders as store bought feeders can introduce disease into you tank. Other good foods for your Oscar are beef heart (although it can be quite messy it is really good for them) turkey heart, shrimp, krill, and other really lean meats. It is good to also have frozen shelled peas on hand. Peas are great for helping with constipation or just keeping the them regular. Oscars have also been known to eat other vegetables such as lettuce, zucchini, cucumbers, etc. I also suggest soaking their pellets in some kind of liquid vitamins (like liquid Centrum) from time to time. This keeps them from getting diseases like HITH (Hole in the Head). Sexing: Unfortunately, it is very hard to tell the sex of an Oscar. Oscars are unlike most other cichlids. The do no show external features that would normally help determine sex. The only certain way is to catch a pair when they are breeding and the breeding tubes are exposed. The female's tube is bigger, and rounded at the end. The male's tube is smaller, and pointed at the end. Breeding: Oscars will pick one mate and have batch after batch of fry once they get started. They are egg layers and have anywhere from 200 - 2000 eggs at once and do this about every month. They will usually lay their eggs on a large flat rock such as slate. Oscars are very diligent parents, protecting their eggs/fry aggressively. Do not have any other fish in the tank with a breeding pair as they will most likely seriously hurt or kill other fish to protect their young. How to breed oscars: Getting Ready: You will need at least three tanks. 1) A 180 U.S. gallon tank to establish your mating pair if you don’t have them already. 2) A 100 U.S. gallon tank for the parents-to-be. 3) At least a 55 U.S. gallon tank for the fry to grow out in. Breeding Oscars is not for everyone and especially not for people new to the fish keeping hobby. In my opinion they are hard to breed, but when they do spawn they can have anywhere from 200 - 2000 fry at a time and they repeat this process every month or so! You need to have some way to get rid of all these Oscar fry and even as popular as they are this can prove to be a daunting task. Before you take up breeding Oscars, keep in mind that it can be quite hard to sell or find homes for 200 - 2000 fry every month. Getting the Mating Pair: Chances are that you will not get a mating pair by going in to the pet store and picking out two Oscars. The best way to go about getting a mating pair (although this method is still not guaranteed) is to buy about six (6) juvenile Oscars and keep them in a tank together and let them pair up naturally. As you know Oscars are large, messy fish that can be aggressive so a large tank is necessary for this. (a minimum 180 U.S. gallon as mentioned above) When the Oscars have paired up you can remove the pair to the 100 U.S. gallon parents-to-be tank (also mentioned above). The rest of the Oscars in the tank can be returned, sold or kept if you are up to the task. If you do decide to keep them,

Tropical Fish Secrets remember Oscars require lot of care and attention. Getting the Pair Ready to Breed: Now that you hopefully have your mating pair you will need to get their home ready for breeding. You need at least a 100 U.S. gallon tank with good filtration and pea sized or smaller gravel or sand as a substrate. You will also need a large flat rock such as slate and a cave or pot. You can decorate with driftwood and such but I don’t see this as necessary. Keep up with your water parameters (as you always should) and change the water regularly. All you have to do now is watch for the mating ritual signs listed below. Mating Rituals: Mating rituals include moving the substrate around in the tank, cleaning the slate and rubbing against the rocks or slate, shimmying their bodies and fins against each other, and lip-locking. Breeding: When you start to see the above mentioned signs of mating it is suggested that you do a rather large water change of about 75% and raise the temperature to the middle 80’s not to exceeding 85° F and subdue the lighting. This helps encourage the mating process. When they are ready to lay and fertilize the eggs they will start spending a lot of time around the area they plan on having the eggs. (usually the flat rock/slate) Two females have been known to go through all the motions and even lay eggs, so you could still not have a male/female pair. It also needs to be mentioned that it may take several times for them to get it right. Don’t get discouraged if they don’t have fry the first, second, or even third time. When you do have eggs make sure they are fertile. The way you do this is by the color of the eggs. After about 24 hours, if the eggs are white they are not fertile. They will be a yellowish or tan color if they are fertile. All unfertilized eggs need to be removed. Just be careful of attacking parents. Oscars are very diligent parents. They will guard the eggs/fry very aggressively. I also need to mention that there should be no other fish in the tank with a breeding pair. The parents will attack and can seriously hurt or kill anything they see as a threat to their eggs/fry. Common name: Rainbow cichlid Scientific name: Herotilapia mulltispinosa Family: Cichlidae Origin: Central America, near/in Nicaragua Max size: 5" Care: The minimum tank size should be a 20g long (30"L x 10"H x 12"W), at a temperature of 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit (24-27 degrees centigrade) My rainbows thrive in a neutral pH of 7.0. The tank should be well furnished with plenty of rocks and gravel for them to hide in, because without enough attention, they become timid fish (Further info later in article). These can be kept together but once a male and female pair off (chances are they will) those two will become aggressive to all other fish. They are notgenerally aggressive, but when kept with other cichlids they can get territorial (they wouldn't be a cichlid if they didn't). Feeding: Not picky, will eat cichlid sticks, but try to keep their diet varied, they eat vegetable material. Sexing: The male has a pointed anal and dorsal fin; the females don't and have

Tropical Fish Secrets larger stomachs. Breeding: They will breed almost as readily as convicts, get a male, get a female, set the temperature and you have eggs. They will la eggs on a flat surface (Rocks, slate, and flower pots have all been my rainbows choices) these guys are awesome parents, and mine have never eaten their babies. Comments: I currently have nine of these (Breeding pair, lone female, and 6 juveniles from a previous spawn) I have the juvies and the single female in my room, and they come out to interact with me (as much as a fish possibly can), but the pair is in a separate room, and is quite skittish. So when you get them as active little juvies, try to keep them near where people are so they don't hide and or freak out when you try to clean the tank or move things around or in the tank. these are a great fish and will add plenty of personality to a tank. Common Name/s: Severum/banded cichlid Scientific Name: Heros severus Family: Cichlidae Origin: Amazon, Northern South America Maximum Size: 8" Care: Severums like their temperature to be around 73-77°F, their pH to be 6.0-6.5, and their dH to be 4-5. They need a tank with at least 30 gallons. They will eat smaller fish and will possibly attack peaceful fish. Be sure not to put them with aggressive fish. They need a softer substrate with natural decor (plants and rocks), but also need enough room to swim freely. Feeding: Severums are heavily omnivores. They are also can be picky. It is best to feed them freeze-dried or live foods daily along with some vegetation and their staple or cichlid food. Some good foods for them are krill, plankton, bloodworms, tubifex worms, and crickets. They also like the frozen herbivore cubes that you can usually find at your lfs. I prefer to feed them pellets instead of flakes because of how they come at it (they hunt it). Sexing: Differentiating between the male and female is very difficult. Usually the male is has much more color and longer fins, but until breeding occurs there is no guarantee on what their sex is. Breeding: Severums do not pair off as easily as most fish do. The female can lay as many as 1,000 eggs. The eggs are usually placed on slate or other forms of rocks, but if desperate they will be laid on the aquarium glass. Eggs laid on the aquarium glass usually do not survive. It is best to offer a short, flat, large rock to the breeding pair to lay their eggs on. Both the male and female guard their eggs very closely and will even attack you if you try to stick your hand near them. It is best to let the fry grow up with their parents. Common names: Mother of pearl eartheater, Surinam Geo Scientific name: Geophagus surinamensis Family: Cichlidae Max size: Around 10" Origin: South America (Surinam and surrounding areas) Care: Neutral pH (7.0), temp should be around 80F (27C). This fish needs a very

Tropical Fish Secrets line substrate in order to thrive in aquarium life. Geophagus species are called eartheaters because they constantly sift through whatever their substrate might be, looking for food. Sinking foods are best for these fish, as their mouth isn't adapted to eating from the surface, and if forced to do so, the fish may become malnourished from a lack of food. These geos can be kept in a small group or singly, although mine is kept with other fairly large growing cichlids. Diet: Sinking pellets/wafers or sinking frozen foods are good. Sexing: Females may have less finnage. Breeding: They should breed once you have a pair, they are mouth brooders, so don't expect to see eggs. Comments: This is a great fish for a dedicated and patient fish keeper. While Surinam geos are bland in color while young, they get more beautiful as they age, and they will grow fin extensions on their claudal, dorsal, and ventral fins (Tail, top fin, and rear bottom fin) they are very active in nature, and have a great personality, they definitely make a good addition to the right tank. Attitude: Semi-aggressive, although they may chase new tank mates relentlessly. Common names: Uaru (Wah-roo), triangle cichlid and occasionally, poor man's discus. Scientific name: Uaru amphiacanthoides Family: Cichlidae Origin: South America, black water environments. Found in same areas as angelfish and Discus Max size: 12" (4' tank minimum) Care: It is recommended that Uarus are kept in groups because they are a cichlid that prefers to be in a group and will most likely become skittish when kept alone. Keeping them in a group while in juvenile stage is critical, if they don't feel secure when young, they never will. If you can not house more than one or two Uarus due to their size, other fish can work as a foster family IME. I kept my single Uaru with several rainbow cichlids, and they served as his fellow Uarus for a few months, and have now been replaced with a severum and Surinam geophagus. Temp should be from 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit (27-32 degrees Celsius) they do well at a neutral pH. An appropriate Uaru tank will have plenty of driftwood or FAKE plants for shelter, as Uarus love plants and actually need them in their diet. Uarus aren't aggressive, and won't do well when kept with overly aggressive fish. Severums make great companions for Uarus, because they both have very similar needs. Feeding: Uarus aren't very picky at all once they have settled into their environment. They will eat just about any fish food you give them, although mine ignores pellets. Be sure that your Uaru gets enough vegetables though; they can be the key to keeping yours healthy. Sexing: Near impossible Breeding: Very difficult, it is said that they breed in the same manner as discus. Other info: A very interesting fish, what it lacks in color is made up for by its dog-

Tropical Fish Secrets like personality and eagerness to eat. If you have the space for an Uaru, get one

Common name/s: White spotted pike cichlid, spangled pike cichlid Scientific name Crenicichla saxatilis Family: Cichlidae Origin: South america Maximum size:10" Care: Care is similar to that of members of the Central American Cichlasoma group of fishes, and a large tank with plenty of hiding places and robust tank mates is a basic. The fish does not do well in hard and alkaline water, a pH above 7.5 should be avoided, temperatures of 25 to 30 centigrade (77-86f) are preferred. The fish is aggressive to members of its own species and other pikes, but can be combined with other large, semi aggressive species. The fish is a predator and tank mates should be at least 4" to avoid becoming food. Feeding: Large meaty frozen and live foods, the fish rarely accepts pellets. Sexing: Males are larger and more brightly coloured, with extensions on the dorsal and caudal fins. Females have eye spots on the dorsal and caudal fins. Breeding: Difficult but possible, the hardest part is finding a suitable pair without them killing each other. The species is a cave spawner and after a brief courtship the eggs are stuck to the ceiling of a cave. The fry hatch within 4-6 days and can be fed with newly born live bearer fry. Comments: The fish is one of a large group of species of the saxatilis group (spangled pikes). All members of this group are predators and have many of the same needs and requirements.

Cyprinids

Scientific name: Balantiocheilus melanoptrus Common names: Bala shark, silver shark Family: Cyprinidae Origin: Southeast Asia Maximum size:13" Care: The large adult size means that this fish should be kept in nothing less

Tropical Fish Secrets than a 75 gallon tank though larger is preferable as the fish is a schooling species that needs to be kept in groups of at least 3. Bala sharks are not fussy of water parameters providing the water is clean and not overly hard or high in pH, the temperature should be kept between 22 and 28 Celsius. A sand or small gravel substrate is preferred as the fish will spend a lot of time searching the substrate for food, avoid sharp decor as the fish is skittish and will often damage its self if frightened, tall plants along the back and sides of the tank will help to keep the fish calm. A tight well fitting lid is essential as the fish is a jumper and will attempt to leave the aquarium. Feeding: Small live and frozen foods like bloodworm and daphnia are best though flakes and pellets will also be taken, some soft leaved plants may be nibbled on. Sexing: Females are larger and fuller bellied Breeding: This fish has not been bred in captivity without the aid of hormone injections. Notes: Large specimens have a high oxygen requirement so special care must be taken during the summer months to prevent the tank from over heating. During hot weather the use of a large air stone connected to a powerful air pump is recommended. Common name/s: Batik Loach Scientific name: Neomacheilus triangularis Family: Cobitidae Origin: India Maximum size:3-5" Care: They prefer warm water 80-81F and a PH of 6.9-7.2. Another Loach that prefers to live singly, however, it is still and peaceful Loach and makes a strange and wonderful addition to any peaceful community. Feeding: Accepts most foods but frozen and live foods are far preferred. Sexing and Breeding: Unknown Comments: A shy Loach that often takes time to adapt to its new surroundings, provide plenty of hiding places so it can feel comfortable and venture out on its own accord. It prefers a fine soft substrate to burrow in. When nervous or stressed the fish can change from a light brown to a very deep black. Common name(s): Bengal danio, Sind danio, Turquoise danio Scientific name(s): Devario devario, Danio devario. Family: Cyprinidae Origin: Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Nepal & Pakistan. Maximum size: 3.9"/10cm Ideal Temperature: 75-86 F (15-26 C) Description: Very similar to the Giant danio only more arrowhead shaped & a lot more yellow on the tailfins. These are often sold as Giants. Feeding: Will accept flake floods, pellets. Loves live foods such as bloodworms and daphnia. Breeding: Easy. Egg-scattering like other danios. Easiest using breeding tank

Tropical Fish Secrets with feathery plants and marble substrate, remove adults after eggs are laid. Note: Like all danios Bengals are a community fish & should be kept in a school of at least 5. Bengal danios are one of the best coloured danios. When all ideal conditions are met, then the bright yellow colouration of tailfin is shown at its most splendid. Common name: Black Khuli Loach Scientific name:Pangio javanicusi] Family:[i]Cobitidae Maximum Size:3-4" Care: Almost identical to the normal Khuli, however I've found this loach far more friendly and outgoing than the normal khuli- they are out more often in daytime. They also appreciate hiding places and plants to root around in. Feeding - Will accept most foods but be sure to provide a varied diet including frozen foods and live if possible. Also ensure some food reaches the bottom for them. Mine likes cucumber Sexing and Breeding - Not often accomplished in home tanks, only easily sexed when a female becomes egg bound. Common name: Blue loach, Orange finned loach. Family: Cobitidae. Scientific name: Botia modesta. Origins: Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam. Feeding: Omnivorous. Suppliment with frozen shrimp, sinking pellets, vegetables. Maximum size: 10-12" though usually smaller in captivity. Lifespan: Possibly 10 years or greater. Recommended tank conditions: At least 55g, with a soft or small-grained substrate, lots of caves/driftwood hiding places. Mix with semi-aggressive species that have similar requirements. This loach will do best in groups of 4 or more, and can get very aggressive alone. In larger groups, will cohabitate nicely with yo-yo loaches and clown loaches. Will dig a lot so live planted tanks are probably not an option. Has three sets of barbels. Like other Botia species, there is a sharp spine located below the eye which the fish will errect when handled or netted. This can inflict quite bad cuts to the unwary and get tangled in nets, so beware trying to handle these fish. Will occasionally do strange things like sleep on their side or leap into a HOB filter. Common Name(s): Bull Heads, Rosy Reds, Tuffies. Scietific Name: Pimephales Vigilax Family: Pimephales Origin: Iowa, United States Maximum Size: 10cm / 4 inches Care: These fish are very hardy. Their PH preference is around Neutral (7). Bull Head Minnows are used mostly for bait, toxicity testing, and mosquito control. They require simple care and can survive in temperatures above freezing (33) to

Tropical Fish Secrets 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Preferably around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Requires basic fish care. Feeding: Bull Head Minnows will eat just about anything you place in the tank. They do not seem to prefer pellets as they are hard to bite of pieces. Sexing and Breeding: Sexing these minnows are some-what difficult. The males have black heads and vertical stripes down their bodies and on their fins. They also grow white breeding tubercles like goldfish and fleshy black growths on top of their heads. The breeding tubercles occur in three rows on the snout. Females lack tubercles, fleshy growths, and vertical stripes. They are much smaller, shorter, and plumper. They also have a very visible ovipositor once sexually mature. The ovipositor is a short, fat tube near the vent from where eggs are deposited. Female fatheads are an olive-brown color with a horizontal stripe down the length of their bodies. Female rosy reds are a washed out orange-white. Breeding these minnows is very easy; in fact, they are the easiest egg-laying fish in the United States. Fatheads and rosy reds begin to breed at about 6 months old, and females are at their prime at about 1 year old. Males mature a little later, peaking often in their second year. Maximum size is usually achieved at two years of age for both sexes. The exact age of maturity depends on temperature, crowding level, and water conditions as with most animals. They live from 1 to 3 years in tanks but less in ponds with predators. Mature males stake out territories when the temperature is between about 65 to 85 degrees F. Fatheads and rosy reds breed from late April into early September in Zone 6/7 of the USA. First, they require a tank of about 20 gallons or more and need a nice clean tank. Second, they require rocks or ledges such as slate or any flat hard rocks. Using flate slate rocks at the local fish store and setting them up in a cave-like structure works fine. When breeding occurs. The male first prepares the breeding site and guards it by chasing off any curious fish. Then, if a persistent female continues to come to the cave or ledge, eventually the male will let her in. When spawning, the male presses the female up onto the cave ceiling or ledge and she releases her eggs while he releases his sperm. After spawning the female(s) may come back several times until they are empty. After the spawning has finished, you can remove the rock or leave it to the male to take care of. The male will use his fleshy spot on his head to rub and tend for the eggs. He has an anti fungal pore on the top of his head to spread on the eggs and keeps them will oxygenated. If he finds and fungus-infected eggs he will remove the egg and place it outside of the nest. About 4 days are required for the eggs to hatch. Once hatched the male will ignore them unless he is properly fed. It is recommended to take the fry out of the tank and place them in either a fry net or a separate fry tank. The fry are raised just as any other fry and in about 9 months the fry will be sexually mature. They live for about 1.5 years or more, depending on the living condition they are in. Comments: If proper steps are taken, this fish is very easy fish to breed, and it is recommended to have a separate tank for the fry, preferably a 5 gallon or so. Due to their living conditions under the "Feeder Fish" tanks in pet stores, most

Tropical Fish Secrets are usually infected with fungus and various diseases. You can also order them online or can actually be found in cricks, streams, still water ponds, and trenches throughout the U.S. Common Name/s: Burma danio. Scientific name: Danio Sp. Burma Other scientific names: None. Family: Cyprinidae Origin: Myanmar Maximum Size: 3.25” / 8cm Care: Similar conditions as for Zebra danios. They are good jumpers like most danios and a good fitting lid is a must. Feeding: Omnivorous, will accept all commercial flake foods. Loves brine shrimp, daphnia etc. Sexing and Breeding: Easy. Females are fuller figured that males. Often spawn at dusk. Comments: A nice danio that schools tightly. They will make a good addition to any community tank. I have observed no fin nipping from this species. Common name/s: Chain/Dwarf Loach. Scientific name: Botia sidthimunki. Family: Cobitidae Origin: Northern India and Thailand. Maximum Size: 2" Care: They should be kept in a group of at least 4 individuals, provide good planting and plenty of hiding places as these fish will often dart around before resting in a favoured retreat. A small peaceful little Loach will live happily in most community tanks, however, they tend to shy away if more boisterous and larger fish are around. Feeding: Most foods will be accepted but Frozen and Live foods are favoured, especially bloodworms. Sexing and Breeding: Not captive breeding reports, little or nothing known. Comments: A great little fish that will constantly dart around the tank in groups before settling on a leaf. A great addition to any tank. Common name: Dwarf red rasbora Scientific name: Microrasbora rubescens. Family: Cyprinidae. Origin: Myanmar. Maximum Size: 5cm/ 2” Care: A semi-hardy fish that likes a good open space at the top of the tank for fast swimming. Provide plenty of foliage for hiding in. Another lovely little shoaling fish that will suit any peaceful community tank. Feeding: Omnivorous; Will accept most flake foods, daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworms (live if possible.) Will eat pellets; however you may need to crush

Tropical Fish Secrets them as they are often too large for their mouths. Sexing and Breeding: Males have a slender body when compared to the female. To breed you need a good tallish plant as the males constantly drive the females and try to lure it into the plants to spawn. They will spawn at dawn, however unlike most egg scatterers they do not try to eat the eggs immediately, but will if left in the tank after spawning. Comments These are a very nice community fish and they make a change from keeping neon tetras as a small fish. I have had mine spawn but at this time no production of fry. Common name/s: Giant Danio. Scientific name: Danio aequipinnatus, formely known as Danio malabaricus. Family: Cyprinidae Origin: India, Myanmar, Thailand, Myanmar, Bangladesh and Nepal. Maximum size: 4" (10cm). Care: They are not specific about water conditions providing extremes of pH and hardness as well as the other parameters are avoided. One of the larger species, also an active shoaling fish that needs to be in groups. Feeding: As with other Danios, it is an insectivore and with an upturned mouth is ideally suited to taking insects from the waters surface. Fortunately for us, they are not fussy about food and will take mainly flake and frozen foods without hesitation. Sexing and Breeding: Danios are prolific and very easy to breed. Males are slimmer and more intense in colouration than females. Pairs can often be used but most prefer them to shoal spawn. Set-up your breeding tank with Java moss or other suitable substances on the bottom so the fishes can scatter their eggs, but cannot eat them as no parental care is practiced. As with barbs ensure they have a good supply of small live foods, starting with infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp. Make sure the breeding tank is covered as the fishes can be so active that they leap from the water. Comments: One of the larger species but by no means less attractive with its lovely markings. They make a great addition to any medium sized community in a fast swimming shoal. Common Name: Harliquin, Lamb chop rasbora. Scientific Name: Harliquin Rasbora Maximum Size: 4.5cm (1-2") Sociability: Mid level water dweller, schooling fish which prefers a minimum group of 6-8. Minimum Tank size: Small community tanks are ideal for a small group. A 30 gallon would be suitable for 12 to 24 harlequins. ph: 6.5-7.5 Temperature: 24-28 degrees C (76-80 degrees F) Sexing: Female is much larger and rounder than the male. Male is generally much smaller than females. Care Level: Great for Beginners.

Tropical Fish Secrets Care: Very easy, requires no special attention. A quite hardy little fish which will not harm others. God quality water with frequent maintenance will help this fish live a long life and show beautiful colours. Aquarium: Good for small community type aquariums, prefers groups larger than 6. A heavily planted, dimly lit aquarium provides this fish with the best environment. Provide ample swimming space. Feeding: Omnivorous. Will take live, frozen or flake foods. Common Names: Horsefaced Loaches. Scientific name: Acantopsis dialuzona. Family: Cobitidae Origin: Southeastern Asia, Sumatra, Borneo, Java; occurs in fresh water only. Maximum Size: 8" Care: A large Loach that requires a fine, soft substrate to bury in. Provide plenty of hiding places if you want to see it above ground. Can and will jump so be sure to provide a good lid with no gaps. Another social fish that does best in groups. A peacefully Loach that can live peacefully in most community tanks with peaceful occupants. Feeding: Accepts most foods preferring frozen and live foods. Sexing and Breeding: Little is known about breeding. Comments: A wonderful Loach with an inquisitive nature. However, they are rarely seen but you can consider it more of an 'event' when you see the fish poking out above the substrate. Common name/s: Spotted or Leopard Danio. Scientific name: Danio rerio var. frankei, was formerly known as D. frankei and thought to be a species in its own right but is now considered a variety of D. rerio. Family: Cyprinidae Origin: India. Maximum size: 2" (6cm). Care: They are not specific about water conditions providing extremes of pH and hardness as well as the other parameters are avoided. As with most Danios an active shoaling fish that needs to be in groups. Inhabiting the more upper levels of the aquarium as with most other Danio species. Feeding: As with other Danios, it is an insectivore and with an upturned mouth is ideally suited to taking insects from the waters surface. Fortunately for us, they are not fussy about food and will take mainly flake and frozen foods without hesitation. Sexing and Breeding: Danios are prolific and very easy to breed. Males are slimmer and more intense in colouration than females. Pairs can often be used but most prefer them to shoal spawn. Set-up your breeding tank with Java moss or other suitable substances on the bottom so the fishes can scatter their eggs, but cannot eat them as no parental care is practiced. As with barbs ensure they have a good supply of small live foods, starting with infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp. Make sure the breeding tank is covered as the fishes can be so

Tropical Fish Secrets active that they leap from the water. Comments: Another wonderful Danio species which has a long-finned form. Common name/s: Moustached Danio, Danglia Danio, Olive Danio. Scientific name: Danio danglia. Family: Cyprinidae Origin: Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Nepal & Myanmar. Maximum size: 15cm (6") Care: Easy, but need a large tank, due to adult size, with plenty of open space at the top for swimming. Feeding: Omnivoures, will eat anything from flaked food to shrimp and smaller fish. I have also seen them eat apple and bananas, but would only use as a treat. Sexing and Breeding: Very hard to tell male from females as they only show the differences when the female is egglaiden. Breeding is the same as with other danios and adults should be separated from the spawning tank. Comments: The second largest species of danio. Looks like a very large pale leopard, only more pink than brown. Can be distinguished from all other danios by the large dark spot on the gill coverings. Common name/s: Orange Finned Danio, Orange Finned Zebra Danio. Scientific name: Danio kyathit. Family: Cyprinidae Origin: Most of Asia Maximum size: 8 cm. (3.25") Care: They are fused about water conditions providing extremes of pH and hardness and gH are avoided. Slightly larger than the normal Zebra Danios. Feeding: Will accept flake floods, pellets and live foods such as bloodworms and daphnia. Sexing and Breeding: These are not as easy to breed as Danio rerio, but like them they are egg-scatters. The best method is using a breeding tank with feathery plants or breeding mop and marble substrate, remove adults after eggs are laid. Comments: Like all Danios, kyathits are a community fish and should be kept in a school of at least 5. Danio kyathit are the not so common as Zebras and are often mislabelled as Zebras. When all ideal conditions are met, then the colouration is shown at its most splendid. There are two colour variations of Kyathit the stripped and the spotted. Common name/s: Pearl Danio. Scientific name: Danio albolineatus. Family: Cyprinidae. Origin: Burma, Sumatra, Thailand. Maximum size: 2" (6cm). Care: They are not specific about water conditions providing extremes of pH and hardness as well as the other parameters are avoided. An active shoaling

Tropical Fish Secrets species that should be kept in groups. Feeding: They are insectivores and their upturned mouth is ideally suited to taking insects from the waters surface. Fortunately for us, they are not fussy about food and will take mainly flake and frozen foods without hesitation. Sexing and Breeding: Danios are prolific and very easy to breed. Males are slimmer and more intense in colouration than females. Pairs can often be used but most prefer them to shoal spawn. Set-up your breeding tank with Java moss or other suitable substances on the bottom so the fishes can scatter their eggs, but cannot eat them as no parental care is practiced. As with barbs ensure they have a good supply of small live foods, starting with infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp. Make sure the breeding tank is covered as the fishes can be so active that they leap from the water. Comments: Breed by the thousands in commercial fish farms, albino and long finned strains are now available. Common name/s: Pingi Logsucker Scientific name: Garra pingi pingi Family:Cyprinidae Origin: E.Asia Maximum size: 4-5" Care: A rare bottom-dwelling fish, Garra pingi pingi grows to about five inches in its native quick-flowing waters of Eastern Asia. The water should be cool and well oxygenated. Feed a wide variety of foods including sinking vegetable matter, commercial foods and frozen foods. In my experience they prefer algae wafers and bloodworm. A subspecies, Garra pingi yiliangensis was discovered in 1977. Sexing and Breeding: Unknown Comments: Garra pingi pingi has been showing up in a few aquarium stores, being sold as a pond fish. There is very little information about this Asian fish. From what I have gathered, it is similar in behavior and appearance to various loaches and "algae eaters." It is reported to eat algae but probably is opportunistic and from my experience this is true. A subspecies, Garra pingi yiliangensis was discovered in 1977. Common Name: Polka-dot Loaches. Scientific name: Botia kubotai, previously Botia angelicus and often seen for sale under the name Botia angelicus. Family: Cobitidae. Origin: Asia. Maximum Size: - 4" Care - As with most Botias they are best of in a group of at least four individuals, they aren't as hardy as others and need good water conditions. Provide plenty of hiding and resting places. Feeding - Most foods will be accepted but Frozen and Live foods are favoured, especially bloodworms. Sexing and Breeding - Not captive breeding reports, little or nothing known. Compatibility - A medium sized Loach which suits any peaceful community

Tropical Fish Secrets tank. Comments - Relatively new on the scene, this Loach may be harder to find than others. But if you can find them they are a nice attractive fish that is generally active. Common Name/s: Queen Loach Scientific name: Botia dario Family: Cobitidae Origin: Mountain streams of Bangladesh. Size: 2-3" Care: Slightly more delicate then other Botias so be sure to provide good water conditions. Again they prefer to be in groups like most Botia, preferable four or more. Plenty of hiding and resting places. Another small and peaceful Botia that will suit most peaceful community tanks. Feeding: Will eat most commercial foods but prefers live and frozen foods and in my experience bloodworms is a particular favourite. Breeding: No captive breeding reports and little or nothing is known about breeding. Comments: A lovely little Loach that will busy itself in the open in groups for most of the time. Attractive and peaceful this fish is perfect for a nice peaceful community tank. Common names/s: Red-finned Shark, Rainbow Shark, Ruby Shark. Scientific name: Epalzeorhynchus frenatus. Family: Cyprinidae. Origin: S.E. Asia (Thailand) Maximum size: 6" (15cm) Care: Planted tank with plenty of rocks, wood and caves. At least 36" in length. Keep the water clean, well filtrated and aerated. Feeding: Omnivorous, some vegetable matter is required in their diet as well as more meatier foods like bloodworms. They will accept most foods ranging from commercially prepared flakes to live foods. Sometimes they will also graze on algae. Sexing and Breeding: Males can sometimes be distinguished by a slimmer body and black lines/markings on the anal fin. Breeding has occasionally happened in the aquaria but it is rare and hard due to their aggression towards their own species. Comments: This is a relatively small and attractive fish. However, although less of a nuisance than E.bicolor they can still show aggression towards fish of a similar shape and size so they do not make good community fish in all cases. Do not keep more than one of this genus to a tank. Captive breeding has now produced an albino form but it is still equally aggressive. Common name(s): None however expect to be known as Rose Danio Scientific name: Danio roseus. Origin: Laos, Thailand and Myanmar.

Tropical Fish Secrets Maximum size: 6.8 cm (2.75") Care: Will only tolerate pH: 6.0 - 8.0 & Hardness: 5.0 - 19.0 anything more or less will have serious consequences. Other than that the same as for Zebra danio (Danio rerio), 23-25c / 73-77f. Feeding: Will accept flake floods, pellets and live foods such as bloodworms and daphnia. Sexing & Breeding: Females are typically fatter than the males. Sexually mature adults have intense red to the underside. They are easy to breed and spawn at dusk or dawn. Like all danios they are egg-scatters. The easiest method is using breeding tank with feathery plants and marble substrate, remove adults after eggs are laid. Comments: Very similar in appearance to Pearl danios but slimmer and have red underside. Like all Danios, Roseus' are a community fish and should be kept in a school of at least 5. Danio Roseus are the newest found Danios and are hard to come by at the moment. When all ideal conditions are met, then the colouration is shown at its most splendid. common name/s: Scissortail. Scientific name: Rasbora trilineata. Family: Cyprinidae. Origin: S.E Asia. Maximum size: 3½ in (8 cm). Care: Provide this Rasbora with plenty of open swimming space and a tight cover or it may jump. They are not particular about the pH of the water and will happily live between 6.6-7.0. These fish should also be kept in a group, ideally as large as possible. I would recommend a tank of at least 25 gallons. Feeding: Excepts most foods but frozen and live foods are far preferred. Sexing and Breeding: Females are slightly rounder when viewed from above. Pairs of fish make spawning runs through thickets of plants and the eggs that are scattered attach themselves to leaves. The parents should then be removed otherwise the eggs will be eaten. The fry will hatch after 28-30 hours but will not be free swimming until 3-5 days at which point feeding should begin, newly hatched brine shrimp and other small live foods are best. Comments: A shy fish by nature but very interesting to observe. They make a good addition to any peaceful community aquarium. Scientific Name: Crossocheilus Saimensis Common Name: True Siamese Algae Eater Family: Cyprinids Origins: Southeast Asia, Thailand (formerly Siam, hence the name Siamese Algae Eater) Maximum Size: 6" Description: SAEs are slender grayish green/brown fish with a black stripe that extends from the tip of the nose/mouth all the way through the fork of the tail. Their fins are transparent to milky with no color to them. Their underside is silver/white. The black stripe may fade if the fish is stressed or fighting.

Tropical Fish Secrets Care: SAEs are very active, peaceful fish that do best in schools but they may be kept in pairs. They need a tank with lots of swimming room and plenty of plants. They love broad leaf plants which younger fish will lay on to rest. Older fish prefer to lie on the bottom or low plants. Mine also love to lie on the slate I have in my tank. Minimum tank size for an adult pair is 25 gallon. They are very adaptable and can handle pH of 5.5 to 8.0 but ideal is 6.5 to 7.0. Water temperature should be 75-79F (24-26C). Tank should also have a good cover as they are said to be good jumpers although I have never seen mine try to jump. Feeding: They eat most types of algae but will also accept flakes or other foods. Mine love shrimp pellets. Sexing: The females are said to often be fatter than males but no other differences are known. Breeding: SAEs have not been bred in captivity yet and are all wild caught. Compatibility: SAEs are not aggressive and make great additions to any community tank that is large enough. Their active nature can stress some slow moving and sensitive fish. They will occasionally chase each other but they don't get hurt. They will not bother other tank mates. It is said that they should not be kept with Red-tailed Sharks as that species is very aggressive towards its own species. Comments: Their swim bladder isn't very developed so they can't stay in midwater. They must either stay in motion or sink. They also have a peculiar way of resting. They don't lie on their bellies but instead keep themselves propped on their tail, pelvic and pectoral fins. Mine seem to grow very fast in the first 6 months, going from about 3/4" to 1" up to about 3 or 4". In optimal conditions, it is said they can reach their full adult size in about 2 years but usually don't grow that fast or ever reach full size. They can live up to 10 years. CAUTION: There are two other fish often sold as SAEs that you want to be aware of. Here is a brief description of them and how to tell them apart. True Siamese Algae Eater: This is the fish I have. The black stripe runs from nose through the fork of the tail but is transparent in the tail. The edges of the stripe also zigzagged. False Siamese Algae Eater: Extremely similar except the stripe starts at the eye and stops at the base of the tail, not extending through the fork. The edges of the stripe are also much smoother. These fish will eat some algae but not much. They can also be aggressive toward their own kind so there shouldn't be more than one adult False SAE in a tank. Flying Fox: Once again, extremely similar. The stripe runs from the nose through the fork of the tail just like the True SAE except the stripe through the tail is much darker, broader and not transparent. They also have a much darker back and their fins have black markings too. They also are aggressive toward their own type and so only one adult per tank is best. Common name: Silver Khulie Scientific name: Pangio muraeniformis Family: Cobitidae

Tropical Fish Secrets Origin: Borneo, Singapore and Sumatra. Maximum Size:12cm 4¾" Care: A hardy Loach that likes to bury in a fine, soft sand substrate. Provide plenty of hiding places as they like to stay hidden until evening/night time. Another Loach that will suit any peaceful community. Feeding: Will accept most commercial foods but love a varied diet which should include frozen and live foods. Sexing and Breeding: Silver Khulies have not been breed in the home aquarium. Comments: The silver Khulie loach is a very interesting fish. They are 'eel-like', and they seem to impress many keepers. They have very attractive colours and markings; they will make a great and interesting addition to any community tank. Common name: Skunk Loach, Hora's Loach Scientific name: Botia morleti Family: Cobitidae Origin: Thailand Maximum size: Up to 4" Care: Skunk Loaches are relatively easy to care for Loaches, and are hardier than most other Loaches. They require a tank temperature anywhere between 79 and 86 degrees F, with a pH of 7.0-7.5. They would appreciate sand or rounded gravel substrate to dig in. They also require hiding places as they are nocturnal. Feeding: Will accept most foods including algae wafers, sinking pellets, frozen and live foods. Snails are also a favorite. Will usually feed after lights out. Sexing and Breeding: There have been no records of this fish breeding in captivity. It is also unknown as to the sexing of these Loaches. Comments: A shy nocturnal Loach for the most part, they can get quite aggressive, especially as they grow older. Keep this in mind when buying them. If you buy a small group the aggression tends to stay within that group, but if bought singly, they may turn that aggression onto the other fish in the aquarium. Another thing of note, this Loach needs a tight fitting cover on the aquarium as it can and will jump. Scientific name: Barbus tetrazona Common name: Tiger barb Family: Cyprinids Origin: Sumatra Max size: 2.5 - 3" Min. Tank size: 30 us/gallon Description: Tiger barbs are probably the most popular of of all the barbs. The body color is basically a golden yellow, with four distinct black bars. Care: Tiger barbs should be kept in groups of at least six to ease aggression. When kept in small numbers tiger barbs will stress and nip other tank inhabitants. They are hardy fish who do not cope well with high nitrite levels. Tiger barbs will usually show warning of climbing nitrite levels by hanging still in the water with their head pointed down.

Tropical Fish Secrets Feeding: Tiger barbs are hardy eaters who will accept a wide range of food. A varied diet of flaked, frozen and live foods is a good choice. Vegetables such as peas and cucumber should be used occasionally to keep them in good condition. Care should be taken not to over feed them. An easy way to spot over feeing is their head pointed down motion. Sexing: Males have deep orange-red fins and a bright red snout. The females are easily spotted by their comparative lack of colour and their deep, convex body shape. Breeding: Two tanks are ideal in order to breed tiger barbs. One tank should be stocked with at least 10 different specimens. A healthy pair should be chosen and placed in a tank which is no smaller than 30 us/gallons. The substrate should be medium sized stones (marbles work good) and large leafed plants. Tiger barbs are egg scatterers and will drop between 50-100 eggs which will then fall between the substrate preventing the parents from eating them. Although tiger barbs are very fussy about water spawning conditions, they do prefer softer water and low alkaline conditions. The parents should be removed from the tank once eggs are spotted. Incubation will last about 48 hours before fry start to hatch. Microworm and brine shrimp should be fed as well as finely crushed flake food. Comments: Tiger barbs when kept in the right circumstances are bright active community fish. There is also a green and albino form of the tiger barb which should be cared for in the same manner. Common name/s: Tiger Loach Scientific name: Botia berdmorei Family: Cobitidae Origin: Thailand, Burma. Maximum size: 6-8" Care: This is one of the few aggressive Botias and should only be kept one specimen per tank or more if space and caves are provided, so each fish can stake out a territory. They are not specific of water conditions just needing low nitrate and ammonia levels and a PH of 6.5-7.5. Feeding: Prefer live and frozen foods and will often only accept this at first but they can soon be trained on to sinking pellets and flakes. But be sure to always include live and frozen foods in their diet. Sexing and Breeding: Unknown Comments: A nice rare and attractive Botia, but remember its size and temperament. Common Name/s: Weather/Dojo Loach Scientific name: Misgurnus angullicaudatus Family: Cobitidae Origin - Asia, China, Korea, Japan. Maximum Size - The Common Dojo/Weatherfish is drab to light brown naturally, though there are "Golden" Dojos (xanthistic varieties, not albinos) that are human-produced. This species attains a maximum length of about twelve inches.

Tropical Fish Secrets The Spotted Dojo or Weatherfish only reaches a natural length of six inches. Care - They should kept in a group preferable in cool, well oxygenated water although they can withstand tropical temperatures. Feeding - Omnivorous, accepts most foods. Sexing and Breeding - Breeding is pretty difficult, mainly because hobbyists know little about their breeding habits etc. Spawning takes place in the spring to the beginning of summer, before water temperatures are too warm. It is believed that a slight rise in temperature after several months will trigger spawning. Pectoral fins are used in sexing mature fish; they are larger in males than in females. Spawning follows a courtship ritual between a breeding pair, this may last for some time, and fertilized eggs will hatch after 3 days. For the first week the fry feed on infusoria, after which they may be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp. Comments - Most common are the Common, Misgurnus anguillicaudatus (Cantor) and Spotted, Cobitis taenia (Linnaeus) Dojos or Weatherfishes. They are often called "living barometers" of their increased activity at the approach of changing weather. These fishes are pressure-sensitive, swimming about more if it’s about to rain for instance. Both are excellent scavengers. They should be kept with their own species. Common name/s: White Cloud Mountain Minnow. Scientific name: Tanichthys albonubes Family: Cyprinidae Origin: White Cloud Mountains in China. Maximum size: 1.5" or smaller. Care: It can be kept in cool conditions, as low as 16C/60F, and some people keep them outside during summer months. Fishes that have been kept in outdoor pools over summer have more colour than the indoor fish due to the abundance of natural foods, from insect larve to algae. It can also be kept at the lower end of the tropical scale. Feeding: They will accept most commercial foods but relish live and frozen foods. Sexing and Breeding: Males are slimmer and have more intense colouration than females. Often you can separate a pair to spawn, however, some prefer the fish to shoal spawn so the females aren't stressed as much. They are egg scatterers that will readily breed and left to their own devices in a well-planted tank they will quickly multiply. However, they show no brood care. Comments: A wonderfully colourful little fish. When kept in groups you can often see them flaring there fins and showing off those magnificent colours. A great little community fish kept with other small peaceful fish. Common name: Zebra Danio, Zebra Fish, Striped Danio. Scientific name: Danio rerio Origin: India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal and Pakistan. Family: Cyprinidae

Tropical Fish Secrets Maximum size: 2 inches Care: A super hyper fish. Very tough and often used to cycle tanks. These fish like to be in groups of 6 or more. They are top dwellers. They are often used as "dither fish" to distract bigger, more aggressive fish. This fish has a long finned and short finned variety as well as many color morphs although basic care is same for most morphs. These guys make a great community fish and fish for beginners. Keep with tetras, gourami, small cichlids, puffers (dither fish), catfish, livebearers, barbs, and other minnows. They require a tank of at least 10 gallons preferable more and a temperature of 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Feeding: Accept flake floods and live foods such as bloodworms and brineshrimp. Sexing: Females are MUCH fatter then males. They sometimes look like they are going to explode. Females have more of a silver tint in between stripes and males have a gold tint. Females usually bully males which is weird because in most fish it's the other way around. Breeding: Move male and female into a separate tank with a layer of round marbles at the bottom. Eggs will fall in between the marbles so parents can't eat them. Fry hatch within 36 hours and look like little white tadpoles against the glass. They become free swimming in 3 days. Common Name/s: Zebra Loaches. Scientific name: Botia Striata. Family: Cobitidae. Origin: Southern India, Tunga river system. Maximum Size: 3". Care: Zebra Loaches have no special requirements. A tank size of 36 inches with a fine substrate like sand is preferred as they are continually searching for food using their barbels. Like most Botias they will make considerable indents on any snail population and can therefore come in very handy. Zebra are best kept in a group, they can be semi-aggressive sometimes. Provide plenty of hiding places as you would with most Loaches. Generally suited to most community tanks but be warned there are reports of some semi-aggressive behavior towards other bottom dwellers but it is unlikely. Feeding: Will readily except most foods, be sure to provide a varied diet of frozen and commercially prepared foods. Sexing and Breeding - Little or nothing is known about the breeding of this fish. No reports of captive breeding. Comments - A nice little fish with a great character. When you have settled a group into your tank they will endlessly roam the tank providing constant action.

Labyrinth

Tropical Fish Secrets

Common name: Siamese Fighting Fish / Betta Scientific name: Betta Splendens Family: Belontiidae Origin: Thailand & Various other asian countries Maximum size: 3 - 3.5" Minimum Tank size: 1.5 - 2G Temperature: 23 - 30C (74-86 F) The Betta is a beautiful fish that exists in all manor of colour variants from whites and silvers through yellows and blues to reds and blacks. Its beautiful flowing fins and graceful movement make it a wonderful fish to own. Care: Bettas originate in the shallow waters in Thailand (formerly called 'Siam', hence their name), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, and parts of China. They proliferate rice paddies, shallow ponds, and even slow moving streams. Because of their natural habitats being fairly enclosed areas Betta keepers can often get away with using tanks as small as a gallon but it is advisable to keep them in at least 2 gallons to keep them happy and give them plenty of space to swim. Being Tropical fish they love a humid climate and so having a heater in a betta tank is much more important than a filter, especially in a smaller tank were heat loss is quick. Having the "Labyrinth" organ means that they can also breathe air from the surface of the water as well as through their gills. The organ is a maze of folded skin that filters the air for oxygen, hence the name labyrinth. Feeding: Bettas will feed fine on dried foods and betta pellets as well as treats of frozen bloodworm or brine shrimp on occasion. They generally like more meaty foods and so will turn their nose up at most flakes. Bettas also love live food and will happily eat live brine shrimp. Sexing: The general rule of sexing is that the Males have long flowing fins whilst the females have much shorter fins. However, watch out for Plakats and other short finned bettas as well as longer finned females . Breeding: The Betta is a bubble nest builder and the male will build his nest for the female to lay her eggs in. When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubble nest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels

Tropical Fish Secrets the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young. Common name/s: Betta falx Scientific name: Betta falx Family: Osphronemidae Origin: Indonesia Maximum size: 1.5in (3.5cm) Care: Betta falx are one of the more commonly available wild-type Betta species in the aquarium hobby. They are a small, hardy, mouth brooding fish, from the Picta Group or Complex, and can be kept and bred quite easily and successfully. They hail from Indonesia, where they are found in quiet, stagnant waters with submerged vegetation. The water usually has a pH of 4.7-6.8, though in the home aquaria they easily acclimate to higher pH levels (I keep mine at pH 7.6, and they have even spawned at this level). Temperatures should be around 72-79 degrees F (22-26 degrees C). Housing requirements are quite simple for this species. A basic 10 gallon US tank is sufficient for a pair. For larger groups, a larger tank will be needed. Tank decor should include "caves" (usually the inexpensive terra cotta pots you can find at local craft shops will do the trick, I even use clean shot glasses covered with gravel), plenty of plants (live or fake, its up to you), a simple sponge filter (it is fry-friendly), and of course, a tight fitting lid (falx, like all bettas, are jumpers). Feeding: Wild-caught varieties may be pickier initially but many keepers have found they DO adjust to most foods. But tank-raised falx will pretty much eat anything. I have even gotten mine to take flake food readily. Betta falx, in general, are your typical mouth brooding betta in that they spend much of their time hiding or holding fairly still, until food falls in front of them. At that point, they will charge out and gobble it up. Though, as I have found, they are not above coming to the surface as well to eat, rather than waiting down below for the food to fall. Some foods of choice would be frozen brineshrimp, frozen bloodworms, frozen daphnia for the youngin's, as well as a variety of live foods. Sexing: Betta falx can be difficult to sex, especially when juveniles. Both males and females have a light brownish body with three black, horizontal stripes down the length of the body. The central stripe starts at the snout and crosses over the eye (the eye often almost blends into the line, giving them an interesting look). When courting and spawning, the stripes will become even more prominent. Along with that, the male's anal and caudal fins will color up a nice red-brown, and the blue and black bands on the anal fin also become more prominent (refer to male photo below). Breeding:

Tropical Fish Secrets Most falx keepers/breeders will tell you that falx are like rabbits, breeding constantly. Many find they actually have to separate the sexes when not planning on a spawn. The female is usually the one who gets the party started by choosing a male and chasing off any other males or females. You will see some courting behaviors which I like to call "falxy-flirting." The male will display his fins and his color will deepen (see the male photo below, taking during courtship). The female will do her own dancing about, and each will "present" themselves, nudging, pecking, and rubbing past each other. When they are finally ready to spawn, the male will "embrace" the female, basically wrapping himself around her. They line up their vents, and as the female releases eggs, the male fertilizes them. The female will then pick up the fallen eggs and spit them at the male, who will catch them and hold them in his mouth. He will stop taking them in when his mouth is full. At this point, unless you have them in a large or divided tank, it is best to remove the female. If she is allowed to stay, she is likely to try to get him to spawn again and he may spit/swallow the eggs before it is time for release, resulting in the loss of the spawn. (B. falx will usually attempt to spawn about every two weeks) The male will now "hold" the eggs in his mouth anywhere from 7-14 days, until the fry reach maturity. Then the male will release the free-swimming fry. During this "holding" time the male will become less active, stop eating, and hide out more than usual. You will notice him turning the eggs from time to time in his mouth, quite a sight. Comments: I have found B. falx to be a great starter fish for folks interested in keeping mouth brooding wild-type bettas. The male displays wonderful coloration during courting, and their whole courting and spawning ritual is something you don't want to miss. I have found my two pairs to be bold and quite the attention pigs, rather than being shy and skittish like so many wild-type species. They are very active little fish and a joy to watch and own. Betta simplex is a small sized mouthbrooder in the picta group. The most common type locality of betta simplex is the krabi province of thaland, but there are many other lesser known localities which create a bit of a variety meaning the krabi species is possibly smaller or larger then those from other localities. Features: The most distinguishing feature of betta simplex is its very large head. The males’ body color is generally light brown to yellow-ish while the females is a yellow-tan color generally marked by fear or breeding stripes. The anal fin of the male features horizontal yellow, blue/green, black, and white stripes (see photo). the tail also features a blue stripe as it almost looks as if the anal fin connects to the tail with the stripes during breeding displays. Sexing: The male simplex is generally more colorful then the female. The male's gill and throat covers are an iridescent green while the females are white or yellow. The female also does not feature the tail and anal fin stripes that the male does. Both male and female have distinctive chin markings extending to the eyes.

Tropical Fish Secrets Breeding and Keeping: Betta simplex prefers alkaline water between the Ph of 7.0 and 7.5, as they are from limestone pools some mainly the krabi locality prefers a bit of limestone. The temperature must be between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit or they will become stressed. Betta Simplex is very sensitive to water temperature. A pair can happily be kept in a 2.5 gallon tank minimum to 5 gallons is preferred. Nothing special must be done to get them to breed if you keep a pair together. During conditioning a variety of foods may be fed. My fish eat frozen bloodworms, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, live grindal worms, and live brine shrimp. During spawning the female initiates the embrace but no eggs will fall if the male is not ready. They must also be kept in a low traffic area if not you will have a lot of difficulty in getting the male to keep a spawn. After spawning the female picks up most of the eggs and the "tosses" them to the male one by one and if he is too slow to catch them she snaps them up and tries again. Spawning may last up to 24 hours. After spawning you will see the males’ lower jaw extend and he will not eat during incubation. Betta simplex holds eggs for around 10 days and the female ovulates about every seven so if the female is not removed at least 3 days after spawning she will pester the male to spawn again in seven days and you will lose the first batch. After 10 days the male will release guppy fry sized babies in groups of 20 or less. They can immediately take a variety of live foods. Young males that have spawned for the first time will most likely not carry the eggs for all 10 days and swallow them. Other reasons for swallowing eggs include infertile eggs, diseased eggs, or sometimes no reason at all. Common name: Banded Gourami Scientific name: Colisa fasciata Family: Anabantidae Origin: North India Maximum size: 4-5 inches Minimum Tank size: 20 gallons Temperature: 76-82 degrees Care: A timid gourami that will not do well with aggressive tank mates. Does not compete well for food and will quickly starve if bullied by other fish. Does well with smaller, peaceful schooling fish such as neon tetras. This fish does well in planted tanks with plenty of places to hide. Being that it is timid, it likes to hide a lot so you might not see this fish as much as other species of gourami. Males can be kept in pairs since this gourami is not aggressive towards other members of the same sex. Feeding: Accepts a variety of tropical flake foods. Also excepts live and frozen foods such as bloodworms and brineshrimp. Is also known to eat algae from leaves of plants and rocks. Sexing: Males are very colorful with vertical orange bars and orange dots on the end of the dorcal fin. Females are noticeably fatter when looked at from above, are also more drab in color and more grey then the males. Also look for rounded fins in females and pointed fins in males. Breeding: A typical bubblenest breeder. Condition both male and female on live foods. This gourami makes a nest in between floating plants and can lay up to

Tropical Fish Secrets 900 eggs in one spawn but this is not common. Soft water with a P.H. of about 5.5 is necessary for eggs to develop and hatch properly. Common Name/s: Chocolate Gourami. Scientific name: Sphaerichthys osphromenoides. Family: Belontiidae. Origin: Malaysia, Sumatra and Borneo. Maximum size: 2.5 inches. Care: One of the most delicate species of fish to keep, it is very fussy about water quality and food. It should be kept in a densely planted aquarium with subdued lighting, perhaps under a blanket of floating plants. Water detoriation will leave the fish open to bacterial and fungal infections. Keep a group of 10-12 individuals. A species aquarium dedicated to these fish is best. A small peaceful species of loach may be added for example as long as they do not unsettle the Gouramis. Breeding: Some controversy surrounds just how Sphaerichthys osphromenoides (Chocolate Gourami) breeds. This may have something to do with the fact that there are possibly four different types of Chocolate Gourami. Of the two forms which have been observed, Sphaerichthys osphromenoides selatanensis is a mouth brooder in which the male carries the eggs, while the other, Sphaerichthys osphromenoides osphromenoides, has been noted as being both a mouthbrooder, in which the female carries the eggs and a bubblenest builder. Newly hatched Brine Shrimp is the best food for the fry. Comments: A lovely little fish, but because of the attention it demands it is not common on the commercial market. If you can get a group of these fish settled in they are great to watch and maybe even breed. Common name/s: Croaking Gourami or Talking Gourami Scientific name: Trichopsis vittata Family: Osphronemidae Origin: Asian jungle streams Maximum size: 2" - 2 1/2" Care: These fish are not difficult as far as water requirements - they will be fine in 72-82F, and from 6.5-7.5 pH. They are shy, so pick tankmates accordingly (no aggressive or overall active species). They are middle-range tank dwellers. Croaking Gouramis prefer well shaded tanks with plenty of hiding areas, well-planted if possible, along with the absence of a strong current. Clean water is a must! Feeding: They will accept all types of flake food, and enjoy small live food to supplement their diet. Sexing: Gender differences are fairly unknown or obscure, though it is said that males have more red in their anal fin and tail, along with having extensions on the same fins. The male may also have a more pointed dorsal fin. Breeding: The male builds a loose bubblenest either in an enclosed, submerged area such as a pot, or at the surface of the water (anchored by plants, etc). Then, the male courts the female, until she follows him to the nest. He wraps around

Tropical Fish Secrets the female while she expels the eggs, and he fertilizes them. Then, he picks up the eggs and blows them into the bubble nest, where he tends them until they hatch. The fry are very small and need infusoria and small live foods such as microworms for the first weeks of life. Comments: These fish actually do make a "croaking" noise - either during spawning or when two males are displaying for each other. Also, Croaking Gouramis often look very boring and dull in pet stores, but become extremely beautiful when healthy and happy. Their blue and green coloring shows up, along with adorable blue eyes. Common name/s: Dwarf Gourami Scientific name: Colisa lalia Family: Belontiidae Origin: India, Bengal and Assam Maximum size: Males - 2 1/2", Females - 2" Care: They can live in most tropical aquariums with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5, and a temperature of 72-82F. Overly active tank mates, along with fin nippers, should be avoided. They prefer to have their quiet, along with plenty of space. It is best to keep either 1 Dwarf Gourami per tank, or several. Males can be quite aggressive to each other, so if 2 are kept, they must have a large tank with plenty of hiding spaces. They prefer to have some floating plants. Feeding: Dwarf Gouramis will accept flake food, but also enjoy frozen and live foods. They also will appreciate some vegetable matter in their diet and may eat rotting plants or algae in a planted aquarium. Sexing: Males are brightly colored, larger, and have a more pointed dorsal fin. Females are mostly silver, occasionally with a hint of other colors. They are smaller and also chubbier in the midsection. Breeding: The male will build a bubble nest at the surface of the water among floating plants, and where there is not a strong current. After courting the female by intensifying his colors and flaring his fins, she will follow him to the nest. There, the eggs are expelled and fertilized, and the male picks them up and blows them into the nest. After the fry hatch, they must be fed the tiniest of foods (such as infusoria), because they are extremely small. Comments: Male fish of this species come in several color varieties, including Neon Blue, Powder Blue, and Sunset/Fire Red (shown in picture). The normal male Dwarf Gourami is blue with red vertical stripes. Common Names: Honey Gourami. Scientific name: Colisa chuna. Family: Belontiidae. Origin: Bangladesh. Maximum Size: 2 inches (5 cm). Care: Requires peaceful companions as it is a shy fish. PH 6 to 7.5, soft and nitrates and ammonia levels kept low. Only requires a small tank of 10-20 gallons, or a long, lightly stocked 5 gallon. Provide planting and hiding places. Peaceful, suitable for community tanks, doesn’t do well with boisterous

Tropical Fish Secrets companions. Feeding: Omnivore, will accept most commercial foods, but relishes frozen foods like Bloodworm and Brineshrimp. Sexing and Breeding: A rather messy bubble nest is built compared to other species; the eggs are kept in a single very tight clump at the centre of the construction. Courtship is also a little different, with the male standing on his tail, with his nose pointing towards the surface. His colours are heightened even more at this time, and he spreads all his fins to the out most and wags his body to and fro. The fry are tiny so feed small fry foods regularly through out the day in small portions. Keep the aquarium clean as any uneaten food will quickly cause a detoriation in water quality. Males are usually more colourful than females, but youngsters show little colour so buy a group. Comments: A lovely, peaceful little fish that does well in the common community and shows great colours when mature. Common Name/s: Kissing gourami. Scientific name: Helostoma temminckii. Family: Helostomatidae. Origin: Java, Thailand Maximum Size: They grow quite large, some 6-12 inches (15-30 cm), in captivity, so be prepared to give them space. Care: They are very adaptable, tolerating most water conditions, but they do like to be warm, in the 26-28C (79-82F). Aquarium layout & size: Because of the fish’s eventual size they need to be housed in a fairly large aquarium, 25-30 gallons is suitable. As they are not quarrelsome they may be kept with most fish species, however, beware that some individual fish have been known to show aggression towards smaller species. Feeding: Most aquarium foods are accepted, such as flakes, pellets and frozen or freeze dried foods. Sexing and Breeding: Although they can be breed in the aquarium, do this only if you have plenty of space - a pair will produce up to 10,000 eggs! The sexes are virtually impossible to distinguish. Comments: There are two colour forms of this fish, the green and the pink. The green fish is considered the wild form and the pink the aquarium form, the later being the most commonly available to the aquarist. This fish is usually kept for their novel way of testing each other's strength. The kissing action is not, as we may suppose, a sign of affection between male and female, but a trail of strength between two males, and forms part of a courtship ritual as they try to impress a suitable female. These fish are very useful in the aquarium because they will pick away at algae, taking it plant leaves without damaging them. Common Name/s: Moonlight Gourami, Moonbeam Gourami, Thin-lipped Gourami. Scientific name: Trichogaster microlepis. Family: Helostomatidae Origin: S.E. Asia.

Tropical Fish Secrets Maximum Size: 6" (15cm). Care: Water conditions are not critical, soft to medium hard, pH 6.2-7.8.Planted tank with gentle circulation and some floating plants to make them feel secure. Normally quite peaceful, but may become territorial with other gouramis or similar fish. 25-29C (77-84F). Feeding: Omnivorous, most foods accepted. Sexing and Breeding: The male will build a large bubblenest. During spawning, the colour of the threadlike ventral fins becomes intense and will change from orange to red. The tank should be heavily planted so the female may hide if the male shows any aggression until ready to spawn. Once the mating is over, remove the female as the male will guard the nest. The males have the classic, larger, more pointed dorsal fin. Pelvic fins of males may show orange-red colour to. Comments: Although not as colourful as other members of the genus, this fish is not one to be over looked. Its striking silver colouration stands out in a well planted tank. Common Name/s: Opaline Gourami or Three-spot Gourami Scientific Name: Trichogaster trichopterus Family: Belontiidae Origin: Malaysia, South China Sea Maximum Size: Up to 6 inches Care: The Opaline Gourami is compatible with a variety of tank mates that are of similar size and temperament. While males can be territorial (and this can't be stressed enough from my experiences with this fish) with each other and other tank mates, they become timid around other, more aggressive fish. The ideal tank set-up would be a minimum of 20 gallons and have plenty of live plants as well as rocks and driftwood for use as hiding places. Ideal water temperature is 72-82 degrees F; pH 6.0-8.0; KH 4-18. Feeding: The Opaline Gourami is an omnivore and prefers both algae-based foods as well as meaty foods. An algae-based flake food, along with freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex, and brine shrimp will provide these fish with the proper nutrition. Sexing and Breeding: The best way to differentiate between the male and female Opaline Gourami is by the dorsal fin. In the male, the dorsal fin is long and pointed, while the female's is shorter and rounded. When ready to breed, the male builds a bubblenest and begins to entice the female by swimming back and forth, flaring his fins and raising his tail. When this behavior is noticed, the water level should be reduced to 6 inches. After spawning, the female should be removed to a separate tank as the male may become aggressive toward her. The male will tend to the eggs until they hatch. After hatching, there should be frequent water changes, especially during the third week, as this is when the labyrinth organ is developing. The fry should be fed infusoria and nauplii. Additional Comments: Male Opaline gouramis can definitely be quite aggressive and may brutalize and nip the fins of slower-moving fish, such as Angelfish. It's best to keep them in tanks with other active fish that can out-swim

Tropical Fish Secrets the male in a chase. If your male opaline gourami becomes too much of an aggressor, add floating plants -- if your tank can handle more fish, the adding of 2 or 3 female opalines can keep the male away from other tank mates. Common Name/s: Pearl Gourami, Leeri Gourami Scientific name: Trichogaster leeri Family: Belontiidae. Origin: Southeast Asia Maximum Size: 4" Care: One of the hardiest gouramis around. They prefer an acidic pH, but do not demand it. Will tolerate pretty much any aquarium water as long as extremes are avoided. A very peaceful fish, this is the ideal tankmates for many fish as they are not too small and make a beautiful addition to most tanks. However, in keeping them with some fish, I have noticed that some fish like to nip at their ventral fins, or "feelers". This is stressful for them, and should be avoided. They like to be in well planted tanks. Feeding: Will eat almost anything, as it is an omnivore. Prepared foods such as flakes and pellets are taken without hesitation. Fresh vegetables, well washed, may be used to supplement its diet. Sexing and Breeding: There is a very clear difference between the two, as the males have a very bright red throat, while the female does not. To breed it, condition a male and a female with live foods. Following that, put them in a smaller tank, reduces the water level, and has many floating plants. The male will then build a bubble nest, and they will breed. Once the eggs are laid, remove the female. The male may be removed after the fry are free-swimming. Infusoria or liquid fry foods should be fed at this time. At around two weeks, freshly hatched brine shrimp may be fed. After approximately a month, you may begin feeding them crushed pellets or flakes. Comments: One of the hardiest and most beautiful gouramies, it is easily found, and makes a fine addition to any community tank. Common names/s: Spotted Climbing Perch, Leopard Ctenopoma and Bushfish. Scientific name: Ctenopoma acutirostre. Family: Anabantidae. Origin: Africa, Congo Basin. Maximum size: 8", 20cm. Care: They like a well planted tank with soft, slightly acidic water which should be warm; anything less than 24C (75F) is too cold. Their method of feeding is to drift close to the prey and then lunge at it, so if you are keeping them with other fishes it is important to make sure they are getting a chance to feed. If they can't get any food try feeding at both ends of the aquarium at the same time so that the more voracious don't know which way to turn and the Ctenopoma get a chance to feed. Take care when handling these fish, they have serrated edges to their gill covers and when intimidated may flare. If this takes place when the fishes are sparring with each other there are no problems, the trouble starts if you are trying

Tropical Fish Secrets to catch them, as the serrations easily entangle in the net. If this happens, do not try to pull the fish from the net; put the net and fish in the tank and the fish will usually release itself. Feeding: A carnivore that may require live as well as frozen foods but can be trained to take commercial foods and frozen foods. Breeding: Ctenopoma are a bubble-nest builder. Very soft and acidic water is required and an increase in water temperature may trigger spawning. The parents show little brood care. Comments: A very nice and attractive fish. There are other species available in the hobby including; Ctenopoma ansorgii, Ctenopoma fasciolatum, Ctenopoma oxyrhynchus and Ctenopoma kingsleyae. Common name/s:Ceylonese green snakehead Scientific name:Channa gachua Family:Channidae Origin:Asia Maximum size:12", 8" is a good size in captivity Care: Can be kept alone or in a small group, minimum tank size for one would be 20g or 40g for a group though larger tanks would be better. They are not fussy of water parameters as long as the extremes of pH and hardness are avoided, keep the temperature between 22 and 26 centigrade (71-79f), as with all Channa species they are intolerant of salt and even small amounts can kill them. Decorate the tank with dense plants and bogwood caves, if keeping more than one make sure there are two caves for each fish. The fish are predators and so tank mates should be equal sized or larger. Feeding: Live and frozen meaty foods of all kinds, earth worms and crickets are favourites. Sexing: Females are larger than males Breeding: Once a pair has formed breeding is easy, the fish are mouth brooders and brood care is similar to that of cichlids, the fry can be fed on new born live bearer fry and small live foods. Comments: The species is identical to Channa orientalis in all ways apart from C.orientalis has no ventral fins. All snakeheads are powerful jumpers so the tank needs a tight fitting heavy hood.

Livebearers

Tropical Fish Secrets

Common Name: Guppy Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata Origin: Central North America to Brazil Maximum Size: 2 inch Care: This fish is very easy to care for, they are a pretty hardy species and can tolerate a variety of water conditions, but prefer slightly alkaline water. Temperature should be 68-79° (degrees) Fahrenheit. The minimum tank size is 5 gallons. Feeding: Be sure to provide a variety of foods, preferably live ones, because a nutritious, complete diet will enhance their colors and ensure good health. Keep in mind that they will eat their young if they are small enough. Breeding: These fish are very easy to breed and they are able to have a batch of fry every 28 days. A pregnant female can be identified by the gravid spot (darkened area) behind her anal fin. An average brood is average is 40 to 50 babies. Sexing: The females are bigger than the males, the males are much more intensely coloured than the females. Males have a gonopodium. - See the article for explanation of gonopodium. Comments: Guppies live only about two years. There are many different colour and fin combinations available. It is advised to keep two or three females to every one male to prevent the males fighting it out between each other. Scientific name: Dermogenys spp. Family: Hemirhamphidae Origin: South and South East Asia; most imported fish are from Thailand and Indonesia Maximum size: Typically around 5 cm, rarely up to 7 cm Minimum Tank Size: Length at least 60 cm, depth relatively unimportant Care: Wrestling halfbeaks of the genus Dermogenys inhabit a variety of waters

Tropical Fish Secrets from soft and acidic through to slightly brackish. While Dermogenys pusilla apparently does best in slightly brackish water as far as captive care goes, a variety of species are sold under the wrestling halfbeak name, others prefer somewhat soft, acidic to neutral water conditions, as with Dermogenys montanus and Dermogenys sumatrana. Importers and retailers make no attempt to separate these species before selling them, and they are in fact very difficult to tell apart. The safest approach is therefore to keep these fish in neutral, slightly soft to moderately hard water and only add salt if it is obvious that the fish are unhealthy. As with other halfbeaks, they do not tolerate large changes in water chemistry, so small but frequent water changes are best (I do around 5% once or twice a week). These fish also appreciate plenty of floating plants amongst which to hide, particularly if they are kept in a community tank with other, more boisterous, species. Social Behaviour: Females are fairly tolerant of one another and will sometimes swim in pairs or small groups, but males are very aggressive towards one another. Their fights can lead to injuries, so it is best to keep only a single male per tank except in large tanks with plenty of places for weaker males to hide. Be prepared to remove these fish if they a being constantly harassed. These halfbeaks are otherwise peaceful, and should not be combined with aggressive or substantially larger fish. Feeding: Readily takes live, frozen, and flake foods. Small insects and insect larvae are the best foods, and excellent for conditioning the females and keeping them healthy during pregnancy. Sexing: The anal fins of the males are modified and appear "folded", producing a structure analogous to the gonopodium of poecilid livebearers like guppies and mollies. Males of some varieties of wrestling halfbeak have red or red-and-yellow dorsal, anal, and caudal fins, but not all. Breeding: Similar to the red fin halfbeak. Pregnancy length very variable, from three to eight weeks depending on the species of halfbeak. Broods typically around a dozen fry, which are able to eat small live foods and frozen lobster eggs immediately after birth. Comments: Wrestling halfbeaks are much smaller and more slender than Celebes and red fin halfbeaks of the genus Nomorhamphus. They also tend to stay close to the surface of the aquarium whereas Celebes halfbeaks spend a lot of time swimming in the middle of the tank. Small Nomorhamphus spp. could be mistaken for Dermogenys spp.; the best way to distinguish them is by looking at them from above. Whereas the beaks of Dermogenys are bordered by transparent 'flanges' creating a scoop-like structure, those of Nomorhamphus lack these flanges and appear more needle-like. Common name: Red fin halfbeak / Sulawesi halfbeak Scientific name: Nomorhamphus ebrardtii Family: Hemirhamphidae Origin: Indonesia, fresh and slightly brackish water Water chemistry: Ideally pH 6.5 to 7.5 and moderately hard Maximum size: Females up to 10 cm, males somewhat smaller

Tropical Fish Secrets Minimum Tank Size: Length at least 60 cm, depth relatively unimportant Care: Red fin halfbeaks (and halfbeaks in general) have a reputation for being delicate and difficult to keep. This is not entirely justified. Once settled in and feeding, they are hardy and tolerant of a wide range of water conditions, from slightly soft and acidic through to slightly brackish. However, they are very intolerant of sudden changes in water chemistry, to the point where large water changes can end up killing some or all of the fish. Small weekly water changes (of around 5% the tank's volume) are recommended. Floating plants are very useful as they stop these fish from jumping, and you should always keep the tank covered. In small aquaria theses fish can swim into the glass when shocked and damage themselves; putting plants along the edges of the tank will help to prevent this. Social Behaviour: Highly aggressive towards one another regardless of sex, these fish must not be overcrowded. They do not fight to the death, but males will damage their beaks and fins, and sometimes lose some scales as well. This opens them up to possible infections such as fin rot and mouth fungus. Commercially available treatments for these diseases are safe and effective. A single male kept with multiple females is the best strategy in small aquaria. In larger tanks (100 litres or more) you may be able to keep more males if you use plants, especially floating plants, to create safe areas that allow males to avoid one another. Red fin halfbeaks are completely harmless towards other fish, though they will eat very small livebearer fry (though not usually their own). On the other hand, these fish may be bullied by aggressive species such as cichlids. Feeding: Prefers live foods, but readily accepts frozen substitutes such as bloodworms, lobster eggs, and mysids. May take flake and free-dried foods, but if this is all you are prepared to feed them, check with your retailer that their fish are accepting them. Red fin halfbeaks prefer to eat food from the surface but will feed at other levels, sometimes even taking food from off the substrate. Sexing: Females larger and much more stocky, and usually have shorter beaks and less colour on the fins. Males have longer, but never curved beaks; compare this with typical Celebes halfbeaks, Nomorhamphus liemi liemi, which have short, curved beaks. Some, but not all, males have red anal, dorsal, and caudal fins. The anal fins of the males are also modified and appear "folded", producing a structure analogous to the gonopodium of poecilid livebearers like guppies and mollies. Breeding: Although considered moderately difficult to breed, these fish mate readily if they are looked after well and conditioned on a variety of live and frozen foods. Water chemistry is of secondary importance, though ideally it should be soft and slightly acidic. Females produce about a dozen fry after 6-8 weeks, but during gestation are very prone to stillbirths. Avoid shocking them by making sudden changes in water quality, and ensure that the fish are regularly fed on a mixed diet including live or frozen foods rather than only flake. Low temperatures (below 24 degrees-C) must also be avoided. Once the fry are born, they stay close to the surface and will hide among floating plants. The fry are around 13 mm long and will accept small live foods such as Daphnia straight away. Liquifry and powdered dry foods are not taken, at least not until the fish are at least 7 to

Tropical Fish Secrets 10 days old. The fry are best cared for in a separate tank filtered with an air-powered filter and containing water taken from the main aquarium. They are hardy and grow rapidly. Comments: This is one of several species sold as the Celebes halfbeak, and is sometimes included in batches of Nomorhamphus liemi liemi. In contrast to that species, this fish has a straight beak; no blue patches on its fins; and less colour on its beak. Common Name: Amzaon Molly Scientific Name: Poecilia formosa Family: Poeciliidae Origins: Believed to be the wild hybrid of Pacific Mexican Molly (Poecilia butleri) and Sailfin Molly (Poecilia velifera) Maxiumum Size: 7 inches (18 cm) Minimum Tank Size: 20 US Gallons Water Conditions: Termpature: 73-82 degrees Fahrenheit; hard (100/150 mg/l) and alkaline (pH 7.5) Temperament: Placid and generally social, though over observation by me, may chase weaker fish Care: Fairly Easy, though not recommended for beginners Feeding: Prefers Live foods and Veggies, will eat flakes though. Sexing: Just like all other live bearers, look for the gonopodium in the male, or the gravid spot in the female Breeding: Impossible, males are sterile Other Additional Information: This is one of the rarest Mollies out there. It was named after the all fabled, all female tribe, for the females are the only ones who can reproduce. Only one out of every 10,000 of these fish are male. Common name: Balloon Molly / Potbelly Molly Scientific name: Poecilia latipinna Family: Poeciliidae Origin: Gulf of Mexico Maximum size: 2.5 inches Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons Care: An easy fish for beginners. Leave open space at the top of the tank since these fish seem to be more top dwelling then anything else. Tank should have many hiding places but these spaces are more for fry then the adults. Keep 1 male for every 2 females. These fish come in a variety of colors and are very attractive in large numbers. Colors include but are not limited to pearl, dalmation, sunset, black, bronze, and marble. There are also lyretail balloon molly and sailfin balloon molly varieties. House with other peaceful community fish such as tetras, gourami, and other livebearers. Feeding: Tropical flake, frozen, live, and freezedried foods are accepted. Very big eaters! Sexing: Since these are big bellied fish it is sometimes hard to tell males from females. Females have a square stomach while males are more rounded. Also

Tropical Fish Secrets look for a pointed anal fin in males called a gonopodium. Female’s anal fins are rounded and resemble a fan. Breeding: Just add water . These fish give birth to live young. Gestation period for these fish is 50-60 days. Females can store sperm for long periods of time so even if you have no males in your tank your females still might continue to give birth every 2 months or so. Fry are easily raised on crushed flake food. Comments: Since these fish are highly inbred the life expectancy is only a year to a year and a half. Fry also grow slower and are not of a sellable size until 6-8 months of age. Dalmatian Molly - Poecilia latipinna Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons Care Level: Moderate Tank Conditions: 68-82°F; pH 7.0-7.8; KH 10-25 Max. Size in Aquarium: Up to 4¾" Color Form: Black and White, Mottled Temperament: Peaceful Diet: Omnivore Origin: east coast of Florida, Gulf of Mexico, North Carolina Family: Poeciliidae The Dalmatian Molly is a hybrid color variation of Poecilia latipinna, the Sailfin Molly. The Dalmatian Molly has a black and white body, and is sometimes referred to as the Marbled Molly or Marbled Sailfin Molly. Mollies have the ability to adapt to a variety of salt levels in the aquarium. With a gradual acclimation, these fish may be maintained in either a freshwater aquarium or a saltwater aquarium. In the freshwater aquarium, a teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon is recommended for optimum health. The Dalmatian Molly prefers a tank of at least 30 gallons, densely planted with plenty of strong plants such as Java fern, Sagittaria, Vallisneria and Anubias. They require a good filtration system because of their hearty appetites. The Dalmatian Molly is well suited for the community tank because of its peaceful nature, and is compatible with other peaceful, large fish that can withstand hard water. They may pursue their young and the young of the other fish. The pointed anal fin and much larger dorsal fin on the male, and the rounded anal fin and pregnancy spot on the female differentiate the two. The Dalmatian Molly is a livebearer that requires a spawning box in a large 25 gallon, or larger breeding tank. The aquarium should be planted as densely as possible or have a thick algae mat. Having a group of floating plants in the corner of the aquarium will promote rearing outside of the breeding tank. Every 60-70 days the female will give birth to 10-60 young that are already approximately one-half inch long. The Dalmatian is omnivorous and requires algae. Provide these fish with an algae-based flake food, as well as freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex, and brine shrimp. Approximate Purchase Size: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"

Tropical Fish Secrets Platy

Common name: Platy, sometimes variatus or southern platy. Origin: North Eastern Central America Size: 2 - 2½ in. (5 - 6.25 cm.) Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus and Xiphophorus variatus Family:Poeciliidae Care: Platys are very easy to care for, and are great beginner fish. Platy's prefer water temperature at 76-79F ( 24.4-26.1C). Platy's are very hardy, and can adapt too many types of water. PH can rage from acidic (6.5) to basic (8.2). Platy's have even been reported to live in brackish water (lightly salted water) and experience no negative effects of it. Diet: Flake, frozen, freeze dried, and live food is all accepted by the Platy, and all should be fed to them on a rotating basis. Although flake can be their staple diet, it will keep them healthier to feed varying food, and help them show better colors. Fry (baby fish) will also be consumed by the Platy and company. Sexing: There are many ways to sex a Platy (these sexing methods, by the way, can be applied to all livebearers), but there are two that are more widely used than others. The first method is to observe the shape of the Platy, Females will be longer, and also have wider stomachs (even when not pregnant) than males. The second method (and most accurate) involves observing the three fins on the underbelly of the fish. Female Platy's will have three almost identical fins, two a little further up the belly (closer to the front) than the rear, and with a male, the two frontal fins will be the same, but the aft fin will be much smaller, and pointed.

Breeding: Breeding Platy's is said to be exceptionally easy, because the caretaker of the fish has to do nothing to start it, and usually can do nothing to prevent it. Platy's, like all other livebearers (Molly's, Guppy's, Swordtail's, and Mosquito Fish) give birth to live young, and do not lay eggs, so for a period of time, the fish is actually pregnant. Gestation usually lasts about a month, at which point the fry are released from the mother, and usually shortly thereafter are eaten by the mother and other platys. Determining whether a Platy is pregnant, like sexing, is not hard to do. If she exhibits one or all of the following signs, she is most likely pregnant. 1. She is much fatter than you remember her, and seems about ready to explode

Tropical Fish Secrets 2. She has a black spot that was not there before forming above the three fins used to determine the sex (this spot is called a gravid spot, and is said to be the eyes of developing fry) 3. She is a Platy Caring for fry, like everything else about the Platy, is also exceptionally easy. If you would like a large brood (batch, litter, etc.) of fry, it is best to isolate the mother in a breeding net (purchasable at almost any Local Fish Store (LFS)) or even a separate tank, but make sure to do so before she is giving birth or close to it, or she will abort the babies and reabsorb them. There are many liquid foods and such out there and to feed baby fish, but Platy's are not demanding, and therefore flake food crushed into tiny pieces will do. Feed in the morning and at night, and feed small amounts. Comments: Platy's are a very hardy fish, and are good beginner fish, but are in no way limited to those who have just started keeping fish. They have a very inquisitive personality, and will explore all levels of the tank. Platys have a wide range of colors, including red, orange, yellow, white, black, and blue, with many different combinations of the colors. They can be found at almost any LFS, and are one of the cheapest fish available. Common name: Swordtail Scientific name: Xiphophorus helleri Family: Poeciliidae Origin: Southern Mexico and Guatemala Maximum size: 4" or about 10cm (including tail) Minimum Tank Size: Around 10-15 US gallons Care: An easy fish for beginners. Needs a temp. of 72-73*F (22-23* C.) Enjoy well-planted aquariums with plenty of room for swimming. They live in loosely grouped schools. Usually Keep 1 male for every 2 females. These fish come in a variety of colors as many other livebearers do. Some varieties include the original wild-type which has olive-green backs, greenish-yellow sides, yellow belly, and a red band. There are also lyre tail swords and Hi-fin swordtail varieties. They should be housed with other peaceful community fish such as other livebearers, tetra, plecostomus, among many others. Feeding: Takes Tropical flake, frozen, live, and freeze-dried foods. Sexing: Most likely the easiest fish to sex. Male swordtails have the lower caudal fins extended into a "sword," hence the name. Usually as long as the body, but with new varieties, some may be 3-4 times as long! The females are more rounded and do not have a "sword" Breeding: These fish give birth to live young. The parents tend to eat their young. At least a day or so birth takes place. (There is usually interval of little over 30 days between broods,) the adults should be placed in a breeding trap though which the fry can escape. The young can take fine powdered food immediately, and should be fed small amounts about 3 X a day after that. The Females can store sperm for long periods of time so even if you have no males in your tank your females still might continue to give birth every 2 months or so. (These fish seem like they are always pregnant!)

Tropical Fish Secrets Comments: Very interesting and easy to breed fish, although they have a short life span as being inbreed over years. This can be avoided by getting a trio or more of wild swordtails and house them in a highly planted tank with medium to hard water, good lighting, varied vegetation and plenty of free swimming space.

Salt water fish

Common name: Tailspot blenny Scientific name: Ecsenius stigmatura Family: Blennidae Origin: Cebu, Phillipines Maximum Size: Up to 2 1/2" Minimum tank size: 10 gallons Care: The tail spot blenny is a peaceful and easy to care for addition to the marine aquarium. This blenny has a long thin body with a black spot on the caudal peduncle and a yellow/orangish stripe over both eyes. You'll find that this blenny loves to perch on ledges or corals and stare at you. The only possible compatibility issue is with cardinalfish. The tail spot blenny is reef safe and is generally a hardy fish and fine for beginners. Feeding: Initially, the tail spot blenny may be difficult to feed after acclimation. However, it prefers algae since it is an herbivore. Crushed marine flake works well. You can try crushed seaweed or even put a piece of nori on a clip. It will graze on algae in the tank.

Tropical Fish Secrets Sexing/Breeding: There is very little information available on blenny sexing and breeding. Common name/s: Banggai Cardinalfish, Kaudern's Cardinalfish, Longfin Cardinalfish Scientific name: Pterapogon kauderni Family: Apogonidae Origin: Indo-Pacific Maximum Size: Up to 3" Care: The Banggai cardinalfish is one of the few marine tank fishes that can be kept in small groups. It can be aggressive, however, towards other similar fishes within the species. In general, it is safe in a tank of similar sized friendly fish. This cardinalfish likes to hang in midwater and, for some, not the most exciting with regards to swimming. However, the fish is striking in appearance with long white-spotted fins and contrasting black stripes on a silver body. The Banggai is reef compatible and recommended minimal tank size is 30 gallons. Feeding: Banggai's are carnivores and can be picky eaters. Some may only take mysid shrimp and refuse pellet, flake or even brine shrimp. You'll have to try an assortment to find out which is preferred. Including shrimp or squid or even live. Many will accept frozen mysid. Sexing/Breeding: These cardinal fish are one of the few marine fish that are not hard to breed in captivity. The male will carry the eggs in his mouth until hatching. The only described 100% sure way to sex the fish is to put a known male in with another Banggai and observe the behavior. COMMON NAME: Blue Devil Damsel OTHERS: Blue Damsel SCIENTIFIC: Chrysiptera Cyrea ADULT SIZE: 2.4 or (6cm) RANGE: Indo-pacific region, Northern part of the Great Barrier Reef MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 10g (l) (If this is the only fish in the aquarium) SOCIAL: CAUTION - A very aggressive species. They will become a threat to each other and other fish that are less aggressive or similar in size. Their presence will make life difficult or impossible for a mild mannered community. As the fish gets older they live up to their name, devil. If they are kept in groups, keep one male to several females. They become territorial when kept in these groups. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Males: Males are a shiny bright blue with a yellowish-orange tail. Example below. Females: Females are also a shiny bright blue with one black dot on the hindmost of the body. (Under where the dorsal fin ends) Example below. If these fish are stressed, they will turn either a dark purple or black. At night they might turn a clearish blue. DIET: Varied diet, meaty food, as well as mysid, brine shrimp, and bloodworms. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, this fish will also nibble on algae. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: No issues with reef living. An excellent and

Tropical Fish Secrets compatible fish. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: An easy fish for beginners and is a very hardy fish. This fish will nibble on algae and zooplankton and is an ideal Reef aquarium choice. It will ignore invertebrates. It also needs plenty of small hiding places throughout the aquarium. The water quality needs to be high with a specific gravitation of 1.020-1.025 range, and a pH of 8.1-8.4. The temperature needs to be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. PERSONAL NOTE: This fish is gorgeous when it is young and is tempting to the new marine aquarist. Plus they are pushed at times in the hobby. But if tempted, be prepared to deal with a pugnacious and obnoxious fish later on that will live on and on and on. Please use caution selecting this guy. It’s not fair to him to be displaced later because the keeper made a bad choice. (Information provided from my experience plus a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources) (Thanks to TBLightingFan for outline and some information) Males :( Yellow belly results of light) Females: Common Name/s - Short fin Lionfish, Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish Scientific Name - Dendochirus Brachypterus Family - Scorpaenidae Origin - Indo- Pacific Maximum Size- 7" Care- These fish should be housed in a tank of at least 30 gallons. They like to perch and hide sometimes. They really are not picky about temperature or water params. A UV sterilizer should be used because these fish will eat cleanup crews. They need good filtration and water movement. Probably somewhere around 600 gph in a 30 gallon. Feeding Feed silversides, cocktail shrimp, scallops, squid and other fresh seafood. Can also be fed live ghost shrimp or Damsels as a treat. Never feed few feeders. They will cause fatty liver disease. Look for directions on weaning them in the other lionfish posts. Sexing - none breeding - will breed regularly by themselves. The fry cannot be raised as they are too small. Notes. These fish are poisonous. If symptoms persist after a few hours seek medical attention. These fish will eat small fish and crustaceans. Best kept with lionfish and scorpion fish. Common Name/s- Antennata lionfish, Ragged fin Firefish, Spotfin lionfish Scientific NamePterois Antennata Family- Scorpaenidae Origin- Africa , Indo-Pacific, Tahiti Maximum Size- 8" Care- This fish should be kept in at least a 30 gallon tank. They like a cave or crevice to hide out in. This species can tolerate a variety of substrates ranging

Tropical Fish Secrets from a Deep Sand Bed to a bare bottom tank. They don’t like bright lights so this would not be a species to keep in a reef. These fish are best kept with fish that are around the same size such as other lionfish, scorpion fish, large wrasses, and anthias. Should not be kept with puffers or triggers as they will nip at its fins a lot. Feeding- Should be fed frozen silversides, cocktail shrimp, scallops, crab and any other fresh seafood. It can also be fed live ghost shrimp or damsels as a treat. NEVER feed freshwater feeders to any Saltwater fish. They cause fatty liver disease. When you first get your lionfish the first thing you have to do is to get it to eat frozen food. To do this you must first set up a feeding schedule so the lion knows who is feeding it and when. Then you can start to substitute frozen in a little bit at a time. Try soaking it in garlic and then wiggling it around on a clear acrylic feeding stick. Sexing- none Breeding- Will breed if you have a pair but the fry are too small to feed. Comments if trying to keep with other scorpion fish do not get a stonefish. They are very poisonous and if you are stung you will be dead in minutes. Do not house with small fish as they will be eaten. An Antennata lionfish would also eat shrimp, and possibly hermts and snails so the best Clean up crew is a UV sterilizer. Common name/s- Russells lion, lunulata lion, Red Volitans, Spotless lionfish, soldier lionfish, Largetail turkeyfish, Military turkeyfish, Plaintail firefish Scientific name- Pterois Lunulata Family- Sorpinaedae Origin- Indo-Pacific Maximum Size- 12" Care- Should be kept in a tank of at least 55 gallons. Needs a few hiding places like lace rock and other decorations. Cannot be kept with small fish as it will most likely eat them. Should have very good filtration as they are messy eaters. In sump skimmers are best as they are more powerful generally. Should have a UV sterilizer as it will eat cleanup crews. Feeding- should be fed frozen silversides, cocktail shrimp, scallops and other fresh seafood. Can also be fed squid and live ghost shrimp as a treat. Soaking the food in a multivitamin is also good. NEVER feed freshwater feeders as they cause fatty liver disease and will kill your fish. When you first acclimate your lionfish you should establish a regular feeding schedule so that it recognizes you as the feeder. When it starts to know when it is getting fed you should start substituting live food for frozen food. Soaking the food in garlic makes it more appealing to the fish. Start substituting more and more frozen food until it is eating full frozen food. If you have a clean up crew including hermits, other crabs, shrimp, and snails they will be an expensive meal. Sexing cannot be sexed. Breeding if a pair is obtained they will spawn readily but the fry haven’t been raised past 9 days. The fry are tiny and will die of lack of food. Notes THESE FISH ARE POISONOUS!! If stung by one soak the hand in VERY

Tropical Fish Secrets hot water. These are best kept with Lionfish and Scorpion fish except a stonefish (if u get stung by one u will die). Do not keep with triggers or puffers as they will most likely nip its fins. Any small fish will be eaten. This is the most active lionfish in my opinion. They like to swim and show off their fins. COMMON NAME: Potter's Angelfish OTHERS: None SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge potteri (Jordan & Metz, 1912) ADULT SIZE: 5.1 in (13cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Johnston Atoll and Hawaiian Islands MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 20 gal. (76L). SOCIAL: Like Fisher's Angelfish it like lost of places to hide and will dash from one place to the other. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Rusty orange on the front and back, shading to blackish below, with many irregular vertical grayish to deep blue lines. (Males have more blue.) DIET: Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: May nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also attack soft corals. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: A beautiful species, they do well in captivity if given peaceful tank mates and plenty of time to adjust. Like many angelfishes they are slow to begin feeding. It likely will not eat in the first 3 days or longer. It may starve in new or tanks without Live Rock and Sand. Will pick at diatoms. OTHER NOTES: Named for Frederick A. Potter, director of the Waikiki Aquarium from its founding in 1903 until 1940. (Information provided from a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources) COMMON NAME: Lemonpeel Angelfish OTHERS: None SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge flavissima (Cuvier, 1831) ADULT SIZE: 5.5 in (14cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Indo-Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 20 gal. (76L). SOCIAL: Can be aggressive to members of its own genus (Centropyge), after it gets established. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: All bright yellow with light blue rings around the eyes and light blue on gill cover and tipped fins. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: Noted to nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps.

Tropical Fish Secrets CARE IN CAPTIVITY: Needs lots of Live Rock to graze on and likes lots micro algae growth. Two (M-F) or Three (M-F-F) can be kept in a large tank. Information provided from a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources) COMMON NAME: Fisher's Angelfish OTHERS: None SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge fisheri (Snyder, 1904) ADULT SIZE: 2.4 in (6cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Johnston Atoll and Hawaiian Islands MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 20 gal. (76L). SOCIAL: Less aggressive than many of its relatives. It likes lots of hiding places to hide (playing peek-a-boo) and it will dash from one to the other. Will only be aggressive in smaller aquariums with docile tank mates. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Much smaller than most Centropyge and is colored in a golden-orangeish gradient. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: Although less likely than its cousins, it may nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: Likes areas with coral rubble and lots of hiding places in the Live Rock. The fish will feed on diatoms on glass and rock. (Information provided from a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources) COMMON NAME: Bicolor Angelfish OTHERS: Oriole Angelfish SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge bicolor (Bloch, 1787) ADULT SIZE: 5.9 in (15cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Indo-Western Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 55 gal. (208L). SOCIAL: Not too aggressive with other fish. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Two Colors, Yellow on the front half and tail. Purple-Blue on the rear half and on patch above eye. DIET: Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily if there is no microalgae growth. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: Will often nip the following: large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, tridacnid calm mantles, and soft corals. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: Can be kept with others. You can have more than one if you add them at the same time.. (Information provided from a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources)

Tropical Fish Secrets COMMON NAME: Cherub Angelfish OTHERS: Atlantic Pygmy Angelfish SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge argi (Woods & Kanazawa, 1951) MAXIMUM LENGTH:3.1 in (8cm) NATURAL LOCATION: Western Tropical Atlantic MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 30 gal. (114L). SOCIAL: Very Fiesty and Pugnacious. This fish will become very aggressive once settled in. It will kill off other Centropyge and all other docile fishes, more so in smaller aquariums. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: All dark purple with a yellow-orangeish face. DIET: Omnivores diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meat fare. Feed 2-3 times daily. REEF COMPATIBILITY: May nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and calm mantles. May also eat soft corals. CAPTIVE CARE: This fish is fairly hardy and will spawn in captivity. M-F pairs can be kept if introduced at the same time. Males will fight until one is killed. Common name/s- Volitan Lion Scientific name- Pterois volitans Family-scorpaenidae Origin- Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka, Africa Maximum Size- 15" Care- Should be housed in a tank of at least 75 gallons but preferably more. Can be kept with other members of the same family including most lionfish and scorpion fish*(see notes). These fish are not very active. They like to perch and sometimes hide in caves but will gladly come out for food in most cases. This fish can and will eat any small fish. This fish is a good fish for a beginner providing you don’t need to stick your hand in the tank too often (see notes). Feeding- these fish can be difficult to wean to frozen food. When you first get it feed it live ghost shrimp at first. When it recognizes you as a feeder and will eat ghost shrimp readily you can start to try silversides soaked in garlic. When you get it on a regular schedule you can stop feeding ghost shrimp except as a treat. A good diet would include silversides and krill soaked in a multivitamin. You can also supplement this diet with cocktail shrimp, scallops, squid (not too often), and any other fresh seafood you can find. A very important feeding rule is NEVER feed freshwater feeders such as goldfish, guppies, rosy reds, etc. These fish cause fatty liver disease down the road and will kill your fish. Sexing/Breeding- there is no sure way to tell if a lionfish is a male or female to my knowledge. If you do get a pair they will breed often. Unfortunately the fry have never been raised past 9 days as they need fresh seawater every day to survive. They are born about as big as. That dot. Notes- It should be noted that THIS FISH IS POISONOUS and can sting you. The stingers are the dorsal and pelvic fins. If you are stung stick your hand in water as hot as you can stand. You should have all the symptoms of a bee sting but it will hurt much worse. If you think you may be allergic than seek medical

Tropical Fish Secrets help right away. * If you would like a scorpion fish then do NOT get a stonefish. If you are stung than you will die in a matter of minutes. COMMON NAME - Dwarf Zebra lionfish OTHERS- too many too name but may include dwarf turkey fish, Dwarf lion , Dwarf zebra SCIENTIFC NAME - Dendrochirus zebra ADULT SIZE - 7" RANGE - Indo-pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE - 30 gallons SEXING- no way to tell BREEDING- will spawn readily but cannot be raised past 9 days as the fry are almost microscopic. They are the size of a. SOCIAL- This fish is commonly classified as Agressive but this isnt true in the traditional sense. It won’t go around attacking other fishes but it will eat anything that can fit in its mouth as it will see it as food. Get along with other fish of its kind. Also get along with other dwarves and all pterois species. Get along great with scorpion fish also. Like to perch and swim through the rocks. DISTINCTIVE CHARACTERISTICS- large pectoral and dorsal fins. Paler than the Volitan lionfish. SUGGESTED DIET- Silversides supplemented with squid, live ghost shrimp, cocktail shrimp, and other fresh sea foods. Feed every other day until the stomach bulges slightly or everyday until the belly looks full. REEF AQURIUM BEHAVIOR- will not nibble on corals but will eat clean up crews. Also will not like the high light that is needed on a reef tank. CARE IN CAPTIVITY- These are pretty easy fish to keep but can be a nuisance to train to frozen food. Needs good filtration as it is a very messy eater. THESE FISH ARE POISONOUS so u do not want to get stung. If stung soak the sting in very hot water. It will hurt for a few days. If there are any symptoms or swelling persists receive medical attention. TRAINING TO EAT FROZEN FOODS- when u first get your lion have a good supply of ghost shrimp. Establish a feeding schedule and make sure he knows who the food is coming from. When he starts to notice u as the feeder start to feed him frozen food once a week. then twice. then three times. And so on and so forth. Soaking the food in garlic is a good way to entice the lion to eat food. COMMON NAME: Eibl's Angelfish OTHERS: Orangelined Angelfish SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge eibli (Klausewitz, 1963) MAXIMUM LENGTH:5.9 in (15cm) NATURAL LOCATION: Western and Indo-Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 30 gal. (114L). SOCIAL: Shy, can be aggressive to smaller fish in tight quarters. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: One of the larger Centropyge. Blended

Tropical Fish Secrets shades of green with vertical, thin orange stripes. The tail fin and hind end are black. The Tail fin is tipped in a light blue. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meat diet. Feed 2-3 times daily and provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF COMPATIBILITY: May nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps. CAPTIVE CARE: Prefers ample opportunities for constant picking and grazing. It will do best if housed in a tank with live rock and/or profuse micro algae growth. BREEDING NOTES: This fish will also breed with a Pearl scale angel (Centropyge vroliki) COMMON NAME: Midnight Angelfish OTHERS: Midnight Angel SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge nox (Bleeker, 1853) MAXIMUM LENGTH:3.5 in (9cm) NATURAL LOCATION: Western and Indo-Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 20 gal. (76L). SOCIAL: Somewhat shy, can be aggressive to other Centropyge Angels DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS:Has the same shape as other Centropyge but this fish is 100% black. A unique feature is the fin pattern in the rear has all the fins meeting uniformly, thus making the fish look completely round. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meat fare. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF COMPATIBILITY: May nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps. CAPTIVE CARE: It will do best if housed in a tank with live rock and/or profuse microalgae growth. Usually not toward fish tank mates, with the exception of other dwarf angelfish species. A male-female can be housed together in a medium sized aquarium. COMMON NAME: Coral Beauty OTHERS: Twospined Angelfish, Dusky Angelfish SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge bispinosa (Gunther, 1860) ADULT SIZE: 3.9 in (10cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Indo-Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 30 gal. (114L). SOCIAL: This fish is one of the least aggressive of the Centropyge genus. It will get along well with almost anything, but it will fight if ample space is not provided. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Golden color surrounded by shades of purple. Amount of each color varies from fish to fish. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: Will nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids,

Tropical Fish Secrets and calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: The Coral Beauty is a very popular species of the Centropyge. It is widely available, hardy, highly compatible, and has a unique gorgeous color scheme. Because it is readily available and popular, it is fairly inexpensive. (Information provided from a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources) COMMON NAME: Golden Angelfish OTHERS: None SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge aurantia (Randall & Wass, 1974) ADULT SIZE: 3.9 in (10cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Western and South Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 55 gal. (208L). SOCIAL: Will be aggressive to members of its own genus (Centropyge), as well as toward fishes with similar shape or behavior. This fish will also desire lots of places to hide in the live rock. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: A dark golden color with lighter gold striping. Fins and edges are clear with thin black stripes. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. This fish will also benefit from micro algae growth. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: Will nip at all stony corals, but will leave most soft corals alone. The possible exception being Xenia. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: The Golden Angel is one of the most prized of the Centropyge. It is also rare to see in Aquaria trade because it is extremely difficult to capture. (recently some individuals have failed to survive more than a month; likely due to cyanide exposure.) PERSONAL NOTE: This is one of the most gorgeous of the Centropyge. It is highly prized. Because of its rare status, one can expect to spend at least $150USD for a small to moderate sized fish. A larger one can cost lots more. COMMON NAME: Domino Damselfish OTHERS: Threespot Dascyllus, Threespot Damsel SCIENTIFIC: Dascyllus trimaculatus (Ruppell, 1828) ADULT SIZE: 5.5 in (14cm) RANGE: Indo-Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 55 gal. (208L). SOCIAL: CAUTION - A very aggressive species. They will become a threat to each other and other fish that are less aggressive or similar in size. Their presence will make life difficult or impossible for a mild mannered community. They will also populate an anemone if one is present. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: One of the medium to larger Damsels. A Black rounded fish with a small white spot on both sides with a third white spot on the "forehead".

Tropical Fish Secrets DIET: Varied diet, meaty food, as well as mysid and brine shrimp. Feed at least 3 times daily and, ideally, some herbivore flakes and frozen preparations. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: Ideal reef inhabitant; will not harm invertebrates and this fish will eat some algae. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: This fish will tolerate a tank environment that will kill nearly every other fish. Because this fish is so hardy it is a popular fish used to seed a new aquarium. However as this fish matures, which it does very quickly, it will become increasingly aggressive. Adults can be kept in male-female pairs or singly. The ideal tank environment is one of a moderately aggressive community. Good co-inhabitants include larger dotty backs, angelfish, and puffers. PERSONAL NOTE: This fish is gorgeous when it is young and is tempting to the new marine aquarist. Plus they are pushed at times in the hobby. But if tempted, be prepared to deal with a pugnacious and obnoxious fish later on that will live on and on and on. Please use caution selecting this guy. It’s not fair to him to be displaced later because the keeper made a bad choice. (Information provided from my experience plus a wide range of fish manuals and guides, including web sources) COMMON NAME: Yellowtail Blue Damselfish OTHERS: Yellow-tailed Damsel, Blue Damsel, Yellowtail Demoiselle SCIENTIFIC: Chrysiptera parasema (Fowler, 1918) ADULT SIZE: 2.8 in (7cm) RANGE: Western Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 20 gal. (76L). SOCIAL: One of the least aggressive of the Damselfishes. A medium tank can handle a small group of these fish. However they can become territorial when in groups. This fish when kept alone likes a lot of small hiding places especially to sleep. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Fish is all blue with a bright Yellow-tail. DIET: Varied diet, meaty food, as well as mysid and brine shrimp. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, this fish will also nibble on algae. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: No issues with reef living. An excellent and compatible fish. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: An easy fish for beginners and is a very hardy fish. This fish will nibble on algae and zooplankton and is an ideal Reef aquarium choice. It will ignore invertebrates. Its yellow tail will fade when the fish is stressed and almost fade to white when very stressed. COMMON NAME: Flame Angelfish OTHERS: None SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge loricula (Gunther, 1874) ADULT SIZE: 3.9 in (10cm) NATURAL LOCATIONS: Western, South, and Central Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 30 gal. (114L). SOCIAL: Can be aggressive to members of its own genus (Centropyge), as well as toward fishes with similar shape or behavior if they are introduced after it has

Tropical Fish Secrets become established. To fit nicely into a relatively peaceful community setting, it should be the last fish introduced. DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Completely a bright orange with 4-5 vertical stripes down the center. The tail ends are a bright neon purple color. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meaty foods. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF AQUARIUM BEHAVIOR: May nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps. CARE IN CAPTIVITY: The flame angel is one of the more hardy of the Centropyge. Plus its bright sharp looks make it a popular choice. (Recently some individuals have failed to survive more than a month; likely due to drug capturing.) COMMON NAME: Heralds Angelfish OTHERS: False Lemonpeel Angelfish SCIENTIFIC: Centropyge heraldi (Woods & Schultz, 1953) MAXIMUM LENGTH:3.9 in (10cm) NATURAL LOCATION: Western and South Pacific MINIMUM AQUARIUM SIZE: 30 gal. (114L). SOCIAL: Shy, can be aggressive to other Centropyge Angels DISTICTIVE CHARACTERISTICS: Looks much like a Lemonpeel angel without the blue markings on the face or fins. DIET: Varied diet, containing Spirulina and marine algae, as well as mysid shrimp and other high-quality meat fare. Feed 2-3 times daily and, ideally, Provide live rock for constant grazing. REEF COMPATIBILITY: May nip at large-polyped stony corals, zoanthids, and tridacnid calm mantles. May also eat soft coral polyps. CAPTIVE CARE: Like C. flavissima, this species can be difficult to feed and will slowly waste away in aquariums that fail to provide ample opportunities for constant picking and grazing. It will do best if housed in a tank with live rock and/or profuse microalgae growth. Usually not toward fish tank mates, with the exception of other dwarf angelfish species. A male-female can be housed together in a medium sized aquarium. PERSONAL NOTES: This fish really likes to be cleaned by a neon goby. Once this fish finds the goby you will see them together for long time. Plus you will have one very happy Angel. Common Name: Picasso Triggerfish Other Names: Lagoon Triggerfish, Blackbar Triggerfish Hawaiian Name: Hu-mu hu-mu nu-ku nu-ku a pu-a-'a. Scientific Name: Rhinecanthus aculeatus Distribution: This species extends from Hawaii and the Marquesas Islands westward through central Polynesia, Micronesia, Melanasia, and the Philippines to the coast of China, through the East Indies, and across the Indian Ocean to the coast of Africa and the Red Sea

Tropical Fish Secrets Natural Habitat: Shallow lagoons and reefs with plenty of rocky hiding places. Reef Safe?: No Average Size: 10 inches Minimum Tank Size: 80 gallons Diet: Picasso's definitely aren't picky about their diet! They can and will eat everything from Marine Carnivore Pellets to brine shrimp (live or frozen) to frozen shrimp, squid, clams, and "Trigger Formula". (I recommend soaking live brine shrimp and any other un-enriched foods in a vitamin/trace element formula before feeding it to your trigger.) Suggested Feedings: 2-3 small meals per day Characteristics and Compatibility: The picasso has the most character of all of the triggerfish (IMO). They are almost like little dogs, and will "beg" for food when you come in the room. These triggers are also very inquisitive! Picassos are very territorial, so make sure that you only put fish in with them that are as big as or bigger than them. Ideal tank-mates are triggerfish, puffers, wrasses, and other fish which are able to defend themselves from the triggerfish's sharp little teeth! Comments: This fish is one of my favorites, and has the most amazing personality of any fish I have ever owned! Make sure to provide many hiding places for the trigger to "wedge himself into" when he goes to sleep at night. Common Name: Firefish Goby Other Name: Dartfish Scientific Name: Nemateleotris magnifica Family: Gobiidae Origin: Indian Ocean or Coral Sea Maximum Size: 2-3" Care: Temperature needs to stay around 72-78°F preferably 76°F. pH needs to stay at 8.1-8.4. dH needs to be 8-12. Salinity 1.020-1.025. Keep the ammonia and nitrite levels low, but they can stand pretty high ones for a little while. Provide plenty of hiding places for it to dart into when scared cause this fish is very timid. If not done it may become permanetly scared of you when you are anywhere around it, also try not to touch with siphons or algae brushes for this will also make it very timid of you. Should not be kept with Anglers or Frogs and caution when putting it with Boxfish. Minimum Tank Size is 30 gallons, if kept in groups they will show aggression to one another. Keep a lid on the tank cause the goby may try to jump out if stressed. Diet: Firefish gobies are carnivores and will eat Brine Shrimp, Flakes, Pellets, Mysid Shrimp, or chooped small crustaceans. You should have at least 2-3 different kinds of food for it to keep variety in its diet. Sexing: Unknown Breeding: It is an egg-layer. It lays a whitish egg mass approx 2 mm in diameter. Spawning frequency ranged from 8 - 28 days. Incubation 7 - 10 days at water temperatures of 76-81 F. Specific gravity 1.021 - 1.022. pH 8.2 - 8.4. You can not really tell when they will spawn. Behavior: When the fish stops moving it flicks its long dorsal fin, this may be to

Tropical Fish Secrets steady it or slow it down. It usually spends most of its time slow swimming around caves, not usually more than 10" away. It is not aggressive to other fish species. It will live peacefully with fish its size. Comments: A great fish for a beginner or even an expert. It is easy to take care of and does not require very much room to roam. Do not make sudden movements around it as this makes the filefish goby go into hiding.

Saltwater invertebrates Common name/s: Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, Indo-Pacific White-Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp, and Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp Scientific name: Lysmata amboinensis Family: Hippolytidae Origin: Indonesia, Sri Lanka Maximum size: Up to 2" Care: The skunk cleaner shrimp is a very easy to care for addition to the marine aquarium. It is considered a member of 'the cleanup' crew and as such, will eat detritus and left over food in the aquarium. One interesting characteristic is that that cleaner shrimp will setup a 'cleaning station' where they will perch on live rock and clean fish of parasites. They will clean off their gills, their bodies and even inside their mouths. Overall, this animal is very friendly and extremely peaceful. The skunk cleaner has a yellow body with two red stripes running down its back and one white spot at the end of each. It is very active in the aquarium and adds color. It is also reef compatible. Best ranges are pH 8.1-8.4. EXTREMELY sensitive to copper, which is toxic. Needs good levels of iodine to molt. Feeding: The skunk cleaner is considered a carnivore but will eat just about anything in your tank and will survive on flake, shrimp pellets, frozen food including mysis and enriched brine and leftovers in the tank. As above, they will also eat parasites off of fish. Sexing: Hermaphroditic Breeding: Difficult, but usually occurs when at least 2 are present and after molting. Average lifespan is 4 years.

Tropical Fish Secrets

Common name(s): Emerald crab, mithrax crab, Emerald Mythrax crab Scientific name: Mithrax sculptus Family: Majidae Origin: Carribbean Maximum size: Up to 2 1/2" Reef compatible: Yes Care: Emerald crabs make up a member of what we call 'the cleanup crew'. They scavenge the aquarium for leftover food or algae and help to keep a marine aquarium clean. One of their claims to fame is that they will eat bubble algae (valonia) which is a nuisance hitchhiker on live rock. If food becomes scarce, emerald crabs can pick on fish or corals when they get larger. They will eat virtually anything including flake, pellet, frozen foods and seaweed.

Tropical Fish Secrets The emerald crab is green in color and has hairy rear legs. As it grows, it will molt and leave its chitinous layer behind looking as if it had died. Sexing: Difficult Breeding: There are reports of Emerald crabs releasing larvae. Mithrax crabs will hold the eggs inside of the flap on their bottom side until they hatch, afterwards releasing them in a planktonic state. Offspring are so sensitive that they rarely survive.

Goldfish and Koi

Common Name/s: Koi Carp. Scientific Name: Cyprinus carpio. Family: Cyprinidae. Maximum Size: The size of Koi can vary, some Koi like Ghost Koi will max out at 15-20" will other breeds can reach 30-35" and sometimes a bit more. Care: Koi need a large pond of at least 1000 gallons. They also require a large filtration system that can cope with their waste. They need good water conditions to thrive and grow. Feeding: Koi can be feed a wide variety of commercial foods including high protein foods for growth and wheat germ through the winter months.

Tropical Fish Secrets Sexing and Breeding: First you need to sex the fish, females, especially in season are far more rounded than male fish which tend to be slim at all times. The pectoral fins of male fish tend to be larger and more pointed than the females, but this is by no means always the case. I find the only sure way to sex fish is to watch the fish. The ones that lay eggs are female; the ones that chase are the males. Spawning usually takes place 1-3 days after introducing male to the female. It can take place at any time of day or night, unfortunately; typically spawning seems to happen around two in the morning. Spawning can be triggered by temperature changes, change in water conditions, introducing new fish or barometric pressure changes. Separate males and females for at least one month before you intend to spawn the fish. Provide a reasonably small pond, ideally 2 x 3 x 1 meter deep. Or use a spawning net in your main pond. Don't feed the parent fish for a few days before you expect the fish to spawn either. Prepare your growing on pond/s. Koi will spawn when the water temperature reaches around 18+. As always, you need to ensure prime water conditions with zero ammonia and nitrates. To achieve and maintain the necessary water temperatures earlyish in the season (late May) it is a good idea to provide heated conditions so that you can achieve a spawning as early as possible to maximize the length of the growing season. I recommend using purpose made spawning ropes. These are soft and easy to handle. Don't use blanket weed it is too difficult to collect the eggs without damaging them. A good quantity of media is required to collect all the eggs and encourage spawning IME. Remove eggs as soon as they are laid to prevent parents eating them. This is obviously easy to do if you have used spawning ropes. Move eggs on ropes to a separate tank for hatching. This should contain water of approximately the same temperature as the spawning pond and should be well oxygenated. It does not however need to be filtered. Eggs introduced straight into growing on ponds are vulnerable to predators such as snails, tadpoles and dragon fly larvae etc. Having worked so hard to achieve the spawning in the first place, don't use them as a food source for the local pond wild life! Comments: Contrary to belief, Koi are not indigenous to Japan. They are believed to originate from eastern Asia, in the Black, Caspian, Aral Seas and China. The earliest written records of Koi were found in China. Koi were believed to be introduced to Japan with the invading Chinese and a first account of them being kept by an emperor in Japan, apparently dates Back to AD 200. Carp fossils have been discovered in South China dating back about 20 million years. Some varieties are known for their hardiness, which records claim can live for 266 years. Koi, or Nishikigoi. - Japanese for "brocaded" carp - were first described in writing from a Chinese book written during the Western Chin Dynasty, 265-316 A.D. At that time they were described as white, red, black and blue. What happened to Koi between the 2nd to the 17th century is still a mystery, but many suspect Koi gradually spread through the orient, possibly by way of trade to and from the Middle East.

Tropical Fish Secrets The farmers in the rice-growing region of the Niigata Prefecture started raising magoi (carp) to supplement their winter diet. They raised these carp in the ponds they used to flood their rice paddies. About 200 years ago one of the farmers noticed a carp with some red color. Some of the farmers started separating the fish that had different coloration's, and breeding them together. The interest in this pastime grew and more color variations were developed. It wasn't until 1914 that some of the most beautiful varieties were shown at a show in Tokyo. Now many keepers often show their Koi in Koi shows or at their local club. Nowadays some Koi can raise very high prices on the market. Some Koi breeds: Kohaku, Tancho, Sanke, Goshiki

Things to look for when buying your fish What do you look for when you are buying your fish? Your fish should not have any small white spots or fuzzy white deposits on their body. Their fins should not be fringed and their skin should not be cloudy. They should be well fed but not bloated. They should swim actively but not darting nervously. And they should be moving and not remaining motionless in the corner. If the water in the tank looks yellowish, fluorescent green or blue, they are not healthy fish and you should not buy them. This indicates that there is medication in the water and the fish in the tank are sick. Transportation: Your fish will come in a plastic bag which is good for short trips. For long trips, 24 hours or more, you will need to pump pure oxygen in the bag. Spiny fish may puncture the plastic with their fins. It is ideal to double bag the fish for transport. If you are transporting in the colder months, I would advise that you wrapped them in newspaper or in a Styrofoam box. Okay, now you are home. Open the bag and hang it in the tank. You can do this either with the cover or a clothespin so that it doesn’t tip over. Add some of the aquarium water to the bag until the water in the bag is the same as the tank. Once you have added as much aquarium water to the bag that was in it originally, you can turn the bag upside down and release the fish into the tank. If you don’t want the water from the pet store in your aquarium, you can remove the fish with your net. I would suggest that you keep the new fish in your quarantine tank for a few days so that you can watch them closely and see if they have any diseases. It is possible that they looked healthy at the store but with the trip home, they could have an outbreak. This is one of the reasons that I don’t advise that you buy new fish before a vacation or a long period away from your home. The person that you have watching your fish might not be aware of what they need to look for. Feeding your fish:

Tropical Fish Secrets The basic rule of thumb is less is more. Feed the fish once or twice a day and only as much as they will eat. An overfed fish will led to a number of different problems. The food should also not cause the water to cloud. Give your fish 5 minutes and come back. If there is still food in the tank, you have fed them too much. Remember that food will swell up in the water. You can not put fish flakes in the tank to be eaten later. This causes other problems that we discussed earlier. Half-grown and fully grown fish will be able to go a couple of days without food. Young fish will need to be fed regularly. The best food is clean live food. This kind of food keeps fish busy. It will provide them with the necessary nutrients and roughage. This is only true if the live fish are fresh. IF it is kept alive in storage, it has no more nutrients than dry food. Some live fish you can catch yourself or you can buy in the pet store. Keep in mind if you are going to catch your own, the water quality of where you catch your live food. You will be exposing your fish to this environment. Some types of live food are red mosquito larvae. They are available in the winter months. White mosquito larvae are also available in the winter months. They are also quite hard to catch in the icy waters. Black mosquito larvae are available in the summer months. Water fleas are also available in the summer. Tubifex worms are probably the cheapest live food. They are good nutrients but they do lack roughage. They will also use up a lot of oxygen which could be used for your fish and plants. AS you fish get older their tolerance increases. You can start feeding them live food collected in the wild. You can also feed your fish lettuce, dandelion greens, chickweed, and other wild plants. If you are going to feed them these sources, be sure to collect them far from the edge of the highway. The highway is exposed to chemicals that you do not want to feed your fish. Caring for Plants: You should pick off the dead leaves once a week. You will want to clip the leaves from time to time. If you don’t do this, they will shade the other plants too much. This will keep the aquarium clean and free of debris. This is especially good for fine-leafed plants. I have given you a lot of information that you might be thinking how I am going to remember all this. Well, I will make it easy for you. I will break it down for you. I have included a checklist of duties that you should do to create an optimal environment for your friends. Daily Feed the fish Observe the fish- you are looking for are they coming to the front of the tank or staying in the back? Are they eating? What colour are they? Do they have any discolourations? Do they swim upright? Are they swimming nervously? Are they breathing rapidly? Look at the plants- are there new shoots? Have the leaves dropped off or are there brown spots?

Tropical Fish Secrets Check the water- is it clear? Does it smell good? Are the snails crawling around or are they lying motionless? Is there foam on the water? Check the equipment- Is everything working? Weekly Duties Groom the plants Siphon off debris Clean the filters so that the water flows freely Clean the front panel of the aquarium Frequent Duties Change the water Helpful Hints If you flash your flashlight in the aquarium, this will tell you how much bacteria is in the tank. If you see dusty air, then there is too much bacteria. You can see the floating algae by looking at the tank from the side. If foam is forming at the filter outlet, change one third of the water right away and then again over the next couple of days. If an odor persists, check the bottom material. If it is black, mucky and stinks, you should dismantel the aquarium and start over again. Be sure to wash the gravel thoroughly. This is a good time to install heating cables in the bottom gravel. Replace one third of the water at least once a month. Siphon off debris. Remember that when you clean the filter. What looks like dirt might not be dirt. It could be bacteria. As long as the filter is working, there is no reason to clean the filter. But if it clogs, then you will need to clean it. All cleaning disrupts the aquarium. Do them considerately as you can. Your aquarium and your vacation It is important that the person taking care of your tank understands the routine that is involved with taking care of your fish. Acquaint them with the fish and their likes and dislikes. Inform them what you do daily and why. Tell them anything that might go wrong and how to fix them. Have them watch you do what you are asking them to do. That way they know how you expect things to be done. Write down all the information that they need to know. (Address and phone number of dealers, your return date, and where you can be reached when you are gone). Give them this book in case they have any questions. They will be able to look them up themselves.

Understanding your fish The shape of the fish tells you a lot about how the fish moves. A fish that swims far and fast and has no need for quick turns will be slim and shaped like a submarine. Fish that live among plants will swim with great agility as if they are

Tropical Fish Secrets deep-bodied and flat. Fish with a straight back like to be right under the water surface. Those with flat bellies will tend to hover close to the bottom. Fins serve as a propeller to move the fish forward. The fast swimming and sudden motions forward are provided by the caudal fin (tail fin) and the muscular tail stalk. Very fast and steady swimmers have forked tail fins. Short distances are covered by moving the pectoral fins. These fins are always in motion even if the fish is not moving. A fish’s pectoral fins are similar to our arms and the pelvic fin is similar to our legs. The pectoral fins are located behind the pelvic fins. The skin of the fish is made up of live cells, including epidermis. The scales, resemble our hair, are embedded in the skin and are renewed only if they have been torn in fights. Fish have taste buds not only in their mouths but on their lips and in the barbells. Some fish have taste buds scattered over their body’s surface. Their sense of smell is located in their noses. Their nose is not used for breathing because it is not connected to the oral cavity. Fish are lidless. They sleep with their eyes open. Their inner ear is what is responsible for their equilibrium. This lies inside the skull behind the eyes and is invisible from the outside. It consists of three miniscule cavities lined with highly sensitive tissue containing otoliths. These grow with the fish. Gravity will pull them downward. Fish will orient themselves by sight. If you shine a light in the aquarium from the side, the inner ear and the eye will send different messages. To them, there are now two “aboves” and will try and align with the approximate midpoint. The swim bladder is what the fish use to lie in the water without expending energy. It also contains the right amount of gases. The intake and release of gases are regulated by the glands. The lengths of the intestines are largely dependent on their diet. Plant eaters have long intestines and round bellies. Carnivores have smaller intestines and are slimmer. The intestines end in the front of the anal fin which is not always the rear section of the body. The heart of the fish is located in their throats below their gills. The heart consists of two chambers, the atrium and the ventricle. The gills are how the fish breathe. From the outside, only the gills show. They are constantly open and shut. They breathe in oxygen from the air. The difference being that the air has been dissolved in the water. The mouth is the only tool that they have. It is used for catching, chewing, and digging, fighting, and sometimes carrying and protecting fry. Fishes mouths can be described in three ways- normal, overshot and undershot. Bottom dwellers usually have an overshot mouth which helps them collect food from the bottom. The lateral line can we described as the sixth sense. This sense organ consists of the canal with sensory cells. It runs along the side of the body from the head to the rear and is divided into several branches. The canal is located underneath the scales and communicates with the exterior through a series of pores. The lateral line registers the minutest movement of water. This tells the fish where other fish are swimming and the echoes of its own fin movements. Fish respond to sudden vibrations with panic and flight. This is why you are asked to never knock on the glass of the aquarium.

Tropical Fish Secrets Coloring and markings are extremely varied. Most fish have silvery bellies. Their night appearance sometimes looks different than their daytime appearance. The markings on their bodies resemble their mood and look. With time and patience you will get to know the markings on your fish. The last thing that you need to know is territory. Some fish are extremely territorial. Two things will happen in regard- two fish will challenge each other for territory. They will swim toward each other with extended fins, but they will stop short and stake themselves. When one realizes that they can’t win, they will hang motionless in the water as to say “you are stronger”. The victor will leave him alone and return to his brood mate. If you have one pair of Scalares, you can trick him using a pocket mirror and taping it to the outside of the glass. Cichlids and Labyrinths are the most violent defenders of territory. If you have a male and you add a female, the male will position himself broadside in front of the female and spread out his fins as far as possible until the female trembles. You may think the male is showing his beauty but he is not. The spreading of the fins, the broadside stance and lowering of the bottom of the mouth are gestures of warning. Males consider the entire tank his territory and will defend it against every other fish. If you want to introduce new fish to the tank, you will have to remove the larger ones and then when the newcomer have gotten used to the tank, you can add them again. In terms of territorial fish, you might have to rearrange the whole tank to make it look and feel different so they don’t feel so at home. Some fish will travel in schools. This is usually because they are weaker and they are safer in numbers. They are generally smaller fish. In the water, they look like one large creature from far away. If they are attacked, the predator will not know where to start because there are so many of them. I have outlined many aspects that will be helpful to you. I hope that you find this information helpful and I encourage you to contact me with your successes. Remember that the goal is to provide your fish with a healthy environment that they can grown in. There are many tips in this book to ensure that you are successful. Good Luck!

Tropical Fish Secrets

Tropical Fish Secrets