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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Marketing Trends • Chemical & Physiological
Composition of Hair • Fision KeraVeg18 Comparisons:
• Amino Acid Distribution • Hair Strengthening Studies • Elasticity Studies • Wet & Dry Combing Studies • Sensory Study • Antioxidant Capacity
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Table of Contents
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Organix Anti-Breakage Keratin Oil - Shampoo
TRESemmé Keratin Smooth - Keratin Infusing Shampoo
Miracle 7 - Keratin Daily Conditioner
Andre Walker Hair - TKO Total Keratin Obsession Deep
Conditioner
One 'n Only Brazilian Tech - Keratin Kit
Organix Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy - Shimmering
Keratin Oil
New Animal Keratin Products Launched to Market
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Source: Mintel
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Protein composed of 18 amino acids1
• Primary structural component of hair, nails & epidermis
• Keratin keeps hair healthy and lessens damage
What is Keratin?
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Amino Acids in Keratin
Alanine
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Cysteine
Glutamic Acid
Glycine
Histidine
Isoleucine
Leucine
Lysine
Methionine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Tyrosine
Tryptophan
Valine 1) Obukowho, Patrick. Hair Relaxers Science, Design, and Application. Allured books. 2012. Chapter 1, page 8
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
The Cuticle – outer most layer of hair, provides protection •Consists mostly of β-keratin (which protects the hair fiber) •Contains cysteine and other amino acids such as arginine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine and tyrosine which form hydrogen bonds (H-bonds) The Cortex – constitutes ~80% of hair mass, responsible for strength, elasticity & flexibility •Consists mostly of α-keratins (makes up the majority of the hair fiber)
– Polypeptides coiled into a helical structure •3 alpha helices are bundled together to form microfibrils •Microfibrils group together and are embedded in a matrix of high sulfur protein
Hair Structure
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Cuticle contains β-keratin
Cortex contains α-keratin
MEDULLA
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Types of Hair Damage
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• Problem: Combing & brushing lift cuticles & break individual fibers • Result: Hair is less manageable, can appear dull & more prone to frizz,
leaving hair more susceptible to damage
Styling Damage
• Problem: Changing color (bleaching/dying) & shape (relaxing/perming) increases cuticle porosity & weakens hair fibers
• Result: Hair is difficult to style, breaks easily, can appear dull & lifeless
Chemical Damage
• Problem: Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated by UV and heat treatments can damage hair & scalp
• Result: Accelerates aging of hair & scalp • Weakens fibers & affects color • Damages scalp
Oxidative Damage
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Hydrolyzed animal keratin fortifies and conditions hair. In addition, animal keratin: – Increases strength – Repairs damage – Increases tensile strength & elasticity – Improves overall quality of the hair (e.g.
manageability, shine, static, fly-aways) • Concerns
– Industry moving away from using animal ingredients
– Animal rights, safety concerns • Solution
– Market needs an effective, non-animal alternative to deliver the same benefits
Animal Keratin Benefits & Concerns
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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
“Ethical & No Animal” Claims Worldwide
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Source: Mintel (Jan 2010-Dec 2012)
CAGR = 10%
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Introducing Fision KeraVeg18, the vegetable-based alternative to animal keratin
• Cohesive solution containing
wheat & soy amino acids, with additional pure amino acids carefully selected to mimic the functional ratios in commercial human hair amino acids – Pure amino acids are of vegetable
fermentation origin
The Vegetable Alternative
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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Features: – Mimics the functional ratios in human hair amino acid – Vegetable-based – Natural – Paraben-free – Formaldehyde-free – Alternative to hydrolyzed animal keratin – Comprised of amino acids to promote greater penetration into hair shaft – Less odorous than animal derived keratin
Benefits: – Increases hair strength – Enhances elasticity – Helps protect hair from harsh salon processes – Makes hair look more shiny & healthy – Improves combability of hair (wet & dry combing) – Reduces static & frizz, making hair easier to style
Fision KeraVeg18 Features & Benefits
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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Comparison studies to hydrolyzed animal keratin:
• Amino Acid Distribution • Hair Strengthening Studies • Elasticity Studies • Wet & Dry Combing Studies • Sensory Study • Antioxidant Capacity
Fision KeraVeg18
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INCI: Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine Suggested Applications: • Shampoos • Conditioners • Leave-on hair treatments • Styling products Suggested Use Level: 2 – 5 %
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Amino acid distribution of Fision KeraVeg18
is close to hydrolyzed keratin
Similar Amino Acid Profile
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Values reported for hydrolyzed keratin are average values of 2 commercially available hydrolyzed keratins from different suppliers
Amino AcidHydrolyzed
KeratinFision
KeraVeg18Alanine 5.30 2.72Arginine 11.41 10.51Aspartic Acid 8.70 6.44Cysteine 2.00 0.20Glutamic Acid 16.27 22.19Glycine 7.55 8.31Histidine 1.10 1.28Isoleucine 2.55 2.73Leucine 5.60 4.91Lysine 3.95 2.87Methionine 0.55 0.86Phenylalanine 2.40 3.52Proline 8.21 6.61Serine 10.46 11.75Threonine 7.20 9.80Tyrosine 1.10 2.35Valine 5.65 2.95Total 100.00 100.00
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Benefits of Arginine include:
– Reinforces and strengthens hair fibers – Helps resist hair breakage and brittleness – Delivers strong conditioning properties – Enhances hair and skin hydration
1. Arginine is the most nitrogen-rich amino acid – Nitrogen carries a positive charge which helps arginine bond to negatively charged
hair – Proteins with more arginine have superior bond with hair
2. Arginine remains substantive to hair throughout harsh coloring and straightening treatments – Arginine has highest positive charge in widest pH spectrum and holds well at low
pH conditions – Highest pKa (12.5) of any amino acid, enabling molecule to retain positive charge
and remain bonded to hair shaft 3. Arginine binds more water and provides intense moisturization
– 6 water-binding sites in molecular structure – Binding and holding water helps prevent brittleness and breakage caused by dry
and damaged hair
Fision KeraVeg18 = 10.51% Arginine
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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 1 – Caucasian Hair
– Damaged with a triple bleaching process
– Measured improvements in elasticity & strength
Study 2 – African Hair – Damaged with a no-lye hair relaxer – Measured improvements in elasticity
& strength
Hair Strength Studies
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Performed studies using damaged hair, resulting from common hair treatments
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Similar Performance
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• Strength & Elasticity are 2 of the defining qualities of healthy hair: – Healthy hair can better withstand frequent combing & styling forces that can otherwise break
hair – The elastic nature of the hair fiber can allow it to stretch during styling without becoming
damaged • Measuring Strength:
– The amount of force required to break a hair fiber • Measuring Elasticity:
– The amount of force that can be applied to stretch the hair before it becomes damaged
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 1 Details – Hair Elasticity & Strength (Caucasian Hair)
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Category Details
Test Model 90 Triple bleached Caucasian hair fibers taken from the same swatch (prior to bleaching, hair was a medium brown)
Materials 2% Fision KeraVeg18 & 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed Keratin) in aqueous solutions
Treatments • Group 1: 2% Fision KeraVeg18 • Group 2: 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin • Group 3: Untreated (serves as baseline for before treatment value)
Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System Treatment Methods
• Hair was soaked a total of 3 times in treatment solutions for 30 minutes • For the first and second treatments, hair was allowed to dry for 24 hours
under ambient conditions • After the last treatment, hair equilibrated for an hour prior to testing. Brass
crimps were then added to the ends of the individual hair fibers following Dia-Stron’s methods.
• Tensile strength was then determined by measuring the total work required to break the individual hair fibers
Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20°C ± 2
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 1 – Results for Increasing Elasticity
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More elastic hair is considered to be healthier and less prone to breakage from styling. Results show Fision KeraVeg18 improves elasticity up to 18%.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 1 – Results for Increasing Strength
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The triple bleaching process weakens hair. Before & after results show Fision KeraVeg18 performs similarly to hydrolyzed animal keratin for improving strength.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 1 – Caucasian Hair Stress Strain Comparison
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Example of average difference in stress strain curves using Fision KeraVeg18 vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin after 5 applications
Fision KeraVeg18 displays similar strengthening properties to Hydrolyzed Keratin Compared to the placebo, KeraVeg18 allowed the hair to tolerate more force before breakage
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 2 Details – Hair Elasticity & Strength (African Hair)
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Category Details
Test Model 90 hair fibers from no-lye relaxed African hair (originally curl type VII) (30 fibers/material)
Treatments Group 1: 2% Fision KeraVeg18 in commercial shampoo & conditioner Group 2: 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin in commercial shampoo & conditioner Group 3: Commercial shampoo & conditioner (placebo)
Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System
Treatment Methods
Hair was relaxed using Soft Sheen Carson Healthy Gloss 5 kit, per manufacturer’s instructions. After relaxing, hair was treated with 5 cycles of shampooing (1 min) and conditioning (2 min). Hair dried for 24 hours under ambient conditions. Brass crimps were added to the ends of the fibers following Dia-Stron’s methods.
Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20°C ± 2
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 2 – Results for Increasing Elasticity
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Fision KeraVeg18 improves elasticity of relaxed African hair. Elasticity is an important attribute of healthy hair. Hair with greater elasticity is considered to be healthier and less prone to breakage from styling.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 2 – Results for Increasing Strength
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Chemically relaxing hair has been shown to significantly weaken the hair fiber. Fision KeraVeg18 is shown to increase hair strength while hydrolyzed animal keratin does not appear to be effective. Increasing hair
strength can help protect hair from styling damage.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 2 – African Hair Stress Strain Comparison
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Fision KeraVeg18 displays superior strengthening properties vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin Compared to the placebo, KeraVeg18 allows the hair to tolerate more force before breakage
Example of average difference in stress strain curves using Fision KeraVeg18 vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin after 5 applications
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Improve elasticity for healthier hair
• Increase hair strength to prevent breakage
• Protect hair from styling damage • Help damage recovery to improve
hair health
Hair Elasticity & Strength Conclusions
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These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can:
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 3 – Wet Combing
– One-time bleached Caucasian hair
– Measured improvements in wet combing ease
Study 4 – Dry Combing
– One-time bleached Caucasian hair
– Measured improvements in dry combing
Combing Studies
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Performed studies using damaged hair, resulting from common hair treatments
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 3 Details – Wet Combing
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Category Details
Test Model 9 single bleached brown Caucasian hair swatches approximately 15 cm in length (3 swatches per test material)
Treatments • 10% SLES pre-treatment to clarify the hair • 2% Fision KeraVeg18, 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed
Keratin) in separate shampoo & conditioner (placebo) • All three treatments were tested in triplicate
Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in combing orientation.
Treatment Methods
• After pre-treatment, swatches were dried under ambient conditions for 24 hours.
• Swatches were then treated with the respective shampoos and conditioners for a total of 5 times.
• Combing forces were measured after 1 and 5 applications. Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature:
20°C ± 2
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 3 – Results for Wet Combing
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Hair is weaker when wet. Fision KeraVeg18 made wet hair easier to comb. This can help reduce risk of hair breakage when combing & make hair easier to style.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 4 Details – Dry Combing
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Category Details
Test Model 9 single bleached brown Caucasian hair swatches approximately 15 cm in length (3 swatches per test material)
Treatments • 10% SLES pre-treatment to clarify the hair. • 2% Fision KeraVeg18 & 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed
Keratin) in separate vehicle shampoo & conditioner (placebo) • All three treatments were tested in triplicate.
Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in combing orientation.
Treatment Methods
• After pre-treatment, swatches were dried under ambient conditions for 24 hours.
• Swatches were then treated with the respective shampoos and conditioners for a total of 5 times.
• After treatments, swatches dried for 24 hours under ambient conditions. • Combing forces were then measured after 1 and 5 applications.
Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20°C ± 2
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 4 – Results for Dry Combing
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Hair treated with Fision KeraVeg18 made hair easier to comb. Reducing the force required to comb the hair improves manageability to help limit styling damage.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Improve combability of wet & dry hair
• Reduce damage that results from excessive combing
• Aid in damage recovery to make damaged hair more manageable
Hair Combing Conclusions
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These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can:
Fision KeraVeg18 is a good alternative to animal derived keratin for improving styling ease and aiding in damage
recovery (repair)
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Perceivable Improvements – Consumer test simulation – 5 females of various descents evaluated the following
parameters after 4 applications of Fision KeraVeg18 & hydrolyzed keratin
Study 5 – Sensory Study
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Hair Characteristic
Knot Removal
Styling Ease
Combing
Shine/Luster
Frizz
Static
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 5 Details – Sensory Study
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Consumer Test
Details
Participants 5 females of various descents
Model Mannequin heads with Caucasian Hair
Test Materials • 2% Fision KeraVeg18 , 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin • Protein-free Placebos: Commercial Shampoo & Conditioner
Treatment Methods
• 10% SLES clarifying pre-treatment wash was used to ensure hair was clean. • Evaluators rated the condition of dry hair based on several parameters. • Heads were shampooed and conditioned for a total of 4 cycles. Subjects
rated improvements in wet hair first. • Hair was allowed to dry under ambient conditions for 24 hours prior to
performing the dry hair evaluations. • Evaluations determined on an 11-point scale from 0 (worst) to 10 (best)
Conditions Water Temperature: 40°C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20°C ± 2
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 5a – Sensory Study Results for Perceivable Improvements on Wet Hair
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After 4 applications, participants noticed superior improvement in the above characteristics when comparing Fision KeraVeg18 to hydrolyzed keratin.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 5b – Sensory Study Results for Perceivable Improvements
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After 4 applications, participants noticed a similar improvement in the above characteristics when comparing Fision KeraVeg18 to hydrolyzed keratin.
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can: • Conditions the hair to help remove knots • Helps make hair easier to style • Improves combing • Increases shine/luster • Reduces Frizz • Decreases static
Perceivable Improvements Conclusion
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Fision KeraVeg18 performed comparably to hydrolyzed animal keratin
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Amino acids can provide antioxidant protection and limit Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) damage
• ROS can weaken hair fibers and alter color
Study 6 – Antioxidant Capacity
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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
Study 6 – Antioxidant Capacity Results
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Fision KeraVeg18 delivers similar antioxidant protection at 1%
Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• UV & hair treatments create oxidative stress that can damage hair & scalp
• Fision KeraVeg18 provides similar antioxidant protection as hydrolyzed keratin
• May help limit oxidative damage to the hair & scalp
ROS Protection Conclusion
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Fision KeraVeg18 2014
• Performs comparably to hydrolyzed animal keratin
• Helps to fortify hair, making it stronger and more elastic
• Decreases force required to comb both wet and dry hair, thus making it easier to comb and style
• Prevents damage
• Aids in damage recovery
Fision KeraVeg18 Summary
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INCI: Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine
Suggested Applications: • Shampoos • Conditioners • Leave-on hair treatments • Post-treatment hair products
Suggested Use Level: 2 – 5 %
Benefits: • Increases hair strength • Enhanced elasticity • Helps protect hair from harsh
salon processes • Makes hair look more shiny &
healthy • Improves combability of hair (wet
& dry combing) • Reduces static & frizz, making hair
easier to style • Comprised of amino acids to
promote greater penetration into hair shaft