Fall RTW Report

3FGI’s TastemakersJohn Demsey

4The Influencer Factor

5Five Questions with a Rising Star

Claudia Li Alejandra Alonso Rojas

iTalk Bulletin Board

In Memoriam: Judy Donohue

ChairKatie Kretschmer

Editor / Contributing Writer

Writers / EditorsWendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant

Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer

Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer

Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer

Graphic DesignDebora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics

THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE

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The Shearling Coat • The Leather Jacket • The New Inflation • Layering • Racing Stripes

Denim • Animalia • Red and Blue • Day and Night • The Beret • The Structured Bag

Crystalled Boots • The Pump • Jewelry’s New Key • Hooping the Ear

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TRENDP R E S E N T A T I O N

Fluidity and diversity were some of the major topicsdiscussed at FGI’s Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-weartrend overview, which took place on April 10 at theHearst Tower. The Fall/Winter season was fluid in abroad sense, ranging from gender to size to racialdiversity. After an in-depth trend analysis fromMarylou Luther, a panel of fashion industry expertstook the stage to share their perspectives on the top trends of the upcoming season. The panel discussion was led by Robin Givhan, fashion criticfrom The Washington Post, and included voices fromboth the retail and editorial sides of the fashionbusiness. Panelists included WWD’s style directorAlex Badia; Roopal Patel, fashion director of SaksFifth Avenue; Brooke Jaffe, fashion director forwomen’s ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s; KyleAnderson, market and accessories director of MarieClaire, and Sophia Panych, digital beauty director for Allure.

Givhan kicked off the discussion by asking the panelabout politics on the runway, noting the pussy hatsat Missoni and a politically charged soundtrack atRaf Simons’ show for Calvin Klein. Badia, who is thefirst menswear expert to speak at an FGI ready-to-wear event, said politics on the runway is nothingnew. “You can’t help but love it. Fashion is a vehicle. To observe a part of history is so interesting,”he said. Patel agreed: “Designers utilized the runwayas a platform.” And according to Jaffe, some of themore political designs, like message tees, are seeingcommercial success at stores like Bloomingdale’s.“We buy the best of the best and let the customerdecide,” she said. The political messages even carried over to the beauty world with Panych recalling a makeup artist at one show telling her,“When everyone else is putting up walls, we’rebreaking them down.”

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Givhan next moved to the subject of diversity on therunways, noting that racial diversity was emphasizedthroughout the Fall/Winter 2017 season. Panychagreed with this sentiment, noting that “Sending outan army of models with the same hair and makeup isso outdated, especially with diverse models.”

The latest Gucci show was also top-of-mind for thepanelists, with Patel noting that the Fall/Winter showswere “...all about real people. If you didn’t get that,you missed something.” Jaffe agreed, saying Guccihas created a melting pot of inclusivity. Andersontalked about the “Gucci effect” on the industry anddescribed how the brand is leading the charge fordiversity, even influencing other designers to be moreinclusive and creative in everything from their castingto their show spaces.

Givhan took some time for a “men’s wear moment”with Badia. “Men aren’t the new women, they are justsmarter men,” he said. When asked about his favoritemen’s shows of the season, Badia said that “Yeezyhas a big impact on the masses.” He also singled outa streetwear renaissance, which was evident at theVetements and Balenciaga shows.

The discussion soon turned to the topic of coed fashion shows, with Anderson chiming in, “that’s theway the world is moving.” Jaffe agreed that it makessense for designers to show men’s and women’stogether to preserve their sanity. However, Badiaremains unconvinced, arguing that women’s fashion isabout creating a universe to define a collection and it feels like a side note to add men’s looks into thatwomen’s universe.

The “see now, buy now” movement was another hottopic. Patel said it’s a still a conversation in progressbut she’s seen success for brands like Ralph Lauren,Tommy Hilfiger and Burberry. Givhan insisted thatgreat product will always sell: “If it’s really great, people will take it now or wait six months.”

According to Anderson, Michael Kors did “see now, buy now” best because it wasn’t the whole collection, just a few key pieces. “It’s nice to make acapsule and see how it goes,” he added.

As a parting question, Givhan asked the panelistswhich designers delighted them most for theFall/Winter season. Anderson’s top picks were Coachand Gucci, while Patel’s favorite was Raf Simons forCalvin Klein because of his “unique take onAmericana with a couture hand.” Badia wanted to be best friends with the Saint Laurent woman this sea-son and also favored Dries Van Noten and the denim-on-denim at the Calvin Klein men’s show. Calvin Kleinwas also a favorite for Jaffe, along with Max Mara andFendi. For Panych, her favorites were Prada, SaintLaurent and Margiela for their beauty looks.

–– Melissa PastoreContributing Writer, melissa.pastore@gmail.com

From left: Sophia Panych, Brooke Jaffe, Alex Badia, Roopal Patel, Kyle Anderson, Robin Givhan

Fall RTW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MAX MARA RICK OWENS BURBERRY

Tuesday, June 6th, 2017Retail Symposium

DEPARTMENT STORES: GOING, GOING, GONE?

Join us as a panel of experts discuss the majorissues confronting legacy department stores.

The New York Hilton1335 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY

8am - 8:15am Check in / 8:15am - 8:45am Breakfast

8:45am- 10am Program

For more information and to purchase tickets

Visit www.fgi.org or call 212.302.5511

iTalk Calendar of Events

What about professional failures? “I’ve had somerunaway successes and some flops. The art is to beable to scale up when you’re successful and scaledown when you’re not,” he said.

Cho asked what he looks for in professional talent.Demsey replied, “Passion, love of what you do, creativity, ability to think outside the lines, butrecognize that it is not an art project.” He emphasizedthat there is no shortcut for hard work and experience,and also noted the importance of mentors.

Talking about his relationship with Leonard Lauder,Demsey said, “He is a father figure, the big boss, afriend, a challenger, provocateur, emotional, and hesees things that other people can’t see.” Further,“Leonard has taught me to look left, right andbehind, and don’t formulate an opinion until youhave done that. I think he is a visionary with uniquesensibilities. Every boss teaches you something, andwith each one, if you listen, you will learn some-thing different.”

Referring to his eight-year-old daughter Helaine,Demsey said, “Seeing the world through a littlegirl’s eyes is a big deal. I can see the magic of whattouches her. I don’t impose a beauty standard onher or tell her what to do.” He said he recentlyobserved her doing her own video of a hair tutorial,and was clearly proud of her for picking up on thevibe today.

Demsey identified three qualities that contribute tosuccess: 1. Be persistent and have a clear view of where youwant to go.

2. Don’t second guess yourself.3. Have passion: If you do something you love,you’ll be successful.

“I’ve learned, sadly, that you’re only as good as yourlast act. It’s a hard reality. For the greater lesson,”Demsey said only half-jokingly, “I’ll quote LeonardLauder, ‘Listen to your mother.’”

— Nancy JeffriesContributing Writer, bnjcasa@aol.com

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He peruses all the local magazines, turns on thelocal news, and sees what’s trending wherever he is.Then he visits all kinds of neighborhoods, includingwhere high-end retail is located, where rich peoplelive, where the counterculture and nightlife are.“I’m looking for cues, how people dress, their inter-ests. I always want to know top shoe lines, whichdesigners are top sellers, and where. All of this tellsyou what the prevailing trends are,” he said.

Noting that retail has been suffering and departmentstores closing, Cho asked Demsey how he is compen-sating. “The companies that are winning are thosethat have established an omnichannel [approach] thatcombines stores and the experiential component withonline content and video strategies,” said Demsey. Hepointed to an evolutionary step taking place. “It’sbeen bad for the apparel business. It’s 50 percent of what it has been, yet the beauty business is muchbigger. From our perspective, it’s much better,” hesaid. “The fastest-growing area is in makeup skin carelines, like BB creams and antiaging products,” hesaid. “Millennials are not as concerned with these asmy generation is, however, time has a sense of humor,and this ‘show me now’ dynamic will begin to morphinto more concern about antiaging skin care.”

Luxury and Beauty Market Success

Demsey cited his close relationship with Tom FordBeauty as an example of a successful luxury back-story going back 17 years, when Tom Ford wanted tohire him to run YSL. Later, Demsey, Ford and AerinLauder worked together to reposition the EstéeLauder brand through the lens of Tom Ford. “It’snow ten years since the launch of Black Orchid,”said Demsey. “The shock was that we had touchedupon a couple of olfactory trends, which includedoud, neroli and leather. These actually became bigger than the traditional Lauder fragranceblends,” he said.

“Putting the luxury and aspiration approach into thefragrance business contributed to a resurgence inclassic fragrance design. Then they introduceda Tom Ford lipstick that became a status symbol,”he said, “and when Fabrizio Freda arrived at thecompany, he unlocked the new wave at Lauder.”

FGI’s Tastemakers John Demsey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A sojourn through the career of John Demsey, executive group president at The Estée LauderCompanies, confirmed the importance of passionand perseverance in the changing world of beauty.On March 9, FGI President Margaret Hayeswelcomed attendees to New York’s 21 Club to hearAlina Cho, editor at large for Ballantine Bantam Dell,interview her colleague and friend Demsey as part ofFGI’s Tastemakers series, sponsored by IFF andArcade Beauty.

Demsey oversees 12-plus beauty brands, includingTom Ford Beauty, Smashbox, Too Faced and BobbiBrown; and is responsible for team development,brand acquisitions and the Estée Lauder Center ofExcellence. He is also chairman of the MAC AIDSFund.

Demsey, who started working with the Estée LauderCompanies as a field rep 26 years ago, shared thebackstory of Lauder’s recent acquisition of Too FacedCosmetics, for $1.45 billion, saying how he had metthe creator of the company more than a quarter of acentury ago. “Too Faced is not an overnight sensa-tion, but the Too Faced point of view is unique. It isone of the most socially engaged brands in today’sworld and has captured the attention of the markettoday,” he said.

Online Engagement and Global Trends

Demsey explained the role of community in buildinga brand. “I’m not a digital native, but today the newinfluencers are the people who create this sense ofcommunity. It’s a whole different way of selling andthinking. There is probably nothing more influentialthan this in the beauty business,” he said.

He noted the big social media reach of Tom Fordand Smashbox. “These are the transportation hubsof the world today, utilizing key words and sophisti-cated searching. The best news is that people actually buy more via social media,” said Demsey. Cho asked how he keeps his finger on the pulse ofthe beauty market when he travels so extensively.Demsey said he uses a grass roots approach:

John Demsey and Alina Cho

Most of the time, however, especially for paidcontent, that feeling of authenticity is crucial.When choosing influencers to work with on a paidbasis, Hennessy points out that it is vital thatthey truly love the brand, but because she is paying them, she can make specific demandsabout how many posts, quality and size of photosand the type of messaging, among other things.“The pitfall is when clients see it as advertising.They can’t dictate what an influencer says, or howthey say it. Followers see right through that. Thatmakes it a two-way street when it comes to branding. “Influencers will be very careful aboutagreeing to do paid content to ensure that itworks with their own brand,” Hennessy explained.If influencers come across as inauthentic, theywill lose their followers’ trust—and the ability tocommand high fees.

The panel continued to discuss best practices forworking with influencers, including how to vet apotential partner—what to look for; when to go forlots of followers versus a smaller, more focusedaudience; and the importance of letting go of previous ideas about control. Anderson describedthe unlikely relationship between Chanel and itsnumber-one influencer, a tattooed makeup artistand model named Jeffree Star. They alsoanswered questions from the audience, rangingfrom how influencers’ influence is measured tohow to target older customers with an arguablyyouth-focused medium.

The discussion was both informative and lively: agreat example of the real value FGI delivers tomembers. Know someone who would benefit fromjoining? Send them to FGI.com for an application.

–– Katie KretschmerEditor/Contributing Writer

Begley’s company, Tribe Dynamics, measuresinfluencer activity and helps businesses see thereturn and value generated from digital marketing.He said the biggest mistake a brand can make isto treat a paid relationship with an influencer asthey would a media buy. “The best return comesfrom more organic posts,” he said.

This is because organic posts, those that are notdriven by a paid relationship, are more authenticto readers (“followers”). The difference betweenpaid and unpaid is subtle, and there are ways todrive organic posts. Haba said Benefit aims todevelop deep relationships with influencers whowill post about the brand because they really loveit, and relies less on paid relationships. But, heexplained, the company is willing to spend moneyto create an experience for influencers—such as a deluxe trip to Necker Island in the Caribbean to relax and also try the latest Benefit products. “Of course, they post lots of great things about the trip—including about the products.” Not coincidentally, Benefit saw a spike in sales atSephora the same week.

Fulenwider asked the panelists about scale versusengagement: How important was the number offollowers? Again, the comparison was made tomagazines, and panelists agreed that it was abouttargeting. You can aim to reach a lot of people orvery specific and passionate people. Who is following an influencer is just as important ashow many followers they have. Hennessydescribed a group she called “Thirst traps”—extremely pretty girls who are mainly followed by guys, even if much of their content is aboutbeauty or fashion. “We use them for beer andalcohol,” she said.

FGI’s April 18 panel discussion, The InfluencerFactor, took a deep dive into the role of the“influencer” in brand marketing today.Generously hosted by the Hearst Corporation andheld in the Joseph Urban Theater at HearstTower, the discussion was moderated by AnneFulenwider, editor in chief of Marie Claire USA.The panel included Toto Haba, VP of global digital marketing at Benefit Cosmetics; ConorBegley, co-founder and president of TribeDynamics; Brittany Hennessy, director of digitaltalent at Hearst Digital Media; and Kyle Anderson,market and accessories director for Marie Claire.

Fulenwider got things started by having the panelists define “influencer.” It’s a person whoinfluences a consumer’s decision to buy, usuallyvia social media platforms such as Instagram,Twitter, YouTube and Facebook, but the concepthas shifted from someone who generates a lot of content (and product buzz) to someone whocreates really great content (and buzz). As Habasaid, “the cream is rising to the top....It’s notquantity so much as quality and the ability toinform—especially when it comes to beauty andskin care,” he said. Begley said he is “not a fanof the ‘influencer’ term.” Rather, he sees them asthe new publishers—playing a similar role to traditional magazines and monetizing their abilityto influence readers.

The emphasis is on monetizing. Hennessyexplained her start as a nightlife blogger in 2007, and eventually being offered $250 (plus a business-class round-trip ticket and hotel)by Nivea to write about an event and hang out inGermany with Rhianna. “Today, I’d need to payan influencer $30,000 to do that.” But thereturns can be equally valuable for brands thatknow how to use these new marketing vehicles.

The Influencer Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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From left: Conor Begley, Anne Fulewider, Kyle Anderson, Brittany Hennessy, Toto HabaFrom left: Nancy Cardone Berger, Margaret Hayes, Anne Fulenwider

iTalk Bulletin Board

Judy Donohue, who joined Fashion Group over 60years ago and served two terms on the Board ofDirectors, passed away on April 16th, 2017. At the time she joined FGI, Donohue held the position of publicity director of the Silk & RayonPrint Institute and went on to found her eponymouspublic relations agency. Specializing in fashion,the firm’s roster included such marquee names asGivenchy, Ferragamo, Escada, Céline and Krizia,among others, and industry mass marketers Gap,Speedo and Swatch. Donohue also catered to A-listed celebrities including Eva Gabor and thedesigner, style icon and legendary beauty, CountessJacqueline de Ribes, whose 2015 exhibit at the Met’s Costume Institute was showcased by Donohue.

Donohue taught publicity at New York’s FIT andpenned Your Career in Public Relations, in whichshe wrote “True success is firmly founded upon honesty, creativity, hard facts and hard effort.”

Beloved, respected and admired by all who knewher, Judy is survived by her cousin, John O’Boyle,his wife and two children, and legions of friends.

If you weren’t in your current profession, what wouldyou be doing (and why)?

CL: I’ve never wanted to do anything else, so I’ve never really gave myself the option to do anything else.

AR: Cooking and gastronomy is my other passion.My mum is a chef, so I grew up learning from herand spent a lot of time in the kitchen as a child. Itis such a creative environment! I also loveantiques and art, so interior design could beanother career path if I didn’t work in fashion.

In the next five years, how will your role—and that ofyour industry—play out in a dramatically changingretail environment?

CL: I really hope that it will help with a change in the industry. I’m not sure what will happenexactly, but we need to express ourselves more asindividuals, our uniqueness and who we are. Andhopefully stores will start to be more and moreopen to that idea and have faith in younger companies and creativity.

AR: There is so much change happening in theindustry right now, especially in the retail market.The marketplace is crowded, with so many brandsfighting for a piece of the puzzle. I want to explorecreating curated collections in select retail establishments across the U.S. and abroad. Retail partnerships are relationships—and the right fit isso important. I’m also launching my e-commercesite in the coming weeks and look forward to inter-acting directly with my customers. This is the bestway to learn what truly resonates back to the consumer. I know I will learn and better the brandbased off this feedback.

What advice would you give to the next class ofRising Star nominees?

CL: Believe in yourself and your team and keepgoing no matter how hard it gets. And please sitdown when everyone else has…because I didn’tand it was quite funny.

AR: I would emphasize that you should always dowhat feels authentic to you. Don’t follow trends,but instead, try to tap into what makes your brandunique. Focus on that one thing that your brandwas founded on. Don’t lose sight of your goals andalways be patient, humble and kind.

How has winning the Rising Star award affected youcareer, and how do you see it shaping your business/career in the future?

CLAUDIA LI: It has definitely helped the brandtremendously with press and industry recognition.It’s one of those milestones that we had to achieve as a creative business. FGI is an enormous family of creative people and it’s amazing because we can get advice and connec-tions to industry experts, which we would probably never get outside of the FGI family.

ALEJANDRA ROJAS: Winning the Rising Staraward was such a nice surprise. I was honoredand humbled to win the award amongst so manydiverse and talented designers. Winning an awardlike this allows me to have a bigger voice in theindustry and confidence when pursuing othercareer milestones.

Does the investment in a major branding event (suchas a runway or party/presentation) make sense todayor does social media work better to grow a brand?

CL: I’m quite old school about shows. I think ashow creates a fantasy, and tells a story that con-nects more deeply to my audience. When youwalk into a show/presentation, and see the atmos-phere, the countless hours my team and peoplewho worked on the show and the garments, thecollection comes alive. That’s why I feel like pictures can say a thousand words but physicallybeing at a show/presentation immerses you into a story.

AR: Like my collection, I believe in a personal-ized approach. Instead of large runway shows, westage private presentations and schedule one-on-one appointments with editors. We like thismodel, and have seen much success with eachseason. I also like to take the time to connectwith editors, walk them through the collection,emphasize the heritage, and really, just try tocommunicate the authenticity of the AlejandraAlonso Rojas brand. Social media is also veryimportant because it allows a brand to establish a creative voice and directly connect with the consumer. I would like my customer to be able toknow and interact with the AAR brand as if theywere getting to know me.

Each January, FGI recognizes a group of up-and-coming designers, entrepreneurs and othercreatives in the fashion, retail, beauty and decor fields. As the Rising Stars of the industry,we thought it might be enlightening to ask them about how they got this far, and what they

see for the future. In this issue, we talk to Claudia Li and Alejandra Alonso Rojas, who tied as the winners in the womenswear category.

Alejandra Alonso Rojasof Alejandra Alonso Rojas,Womenswear Rising Star

Claudia Li of Claudia Li, Womenswear Rising Star

ive questions with the Rising Stars5Taylor Made

As any fashion or retail professional (or anyone whoreads the papers, actually) will tell you, those indus-tries are evolving at Mach speed. Technology ischanging the ways in which consumers see what’savailable to them, as well as how, when, where andat what time they shop; how they communicate withother consumers, colleagues, companies and brands;and how much influence they have on the successand/or failure of brands and products.

According to longtime FGI member Stephanie Taylor,who has a long and brilliant history as an educatorwith a particular expertise in managing university-level fashion departments, the challenge for educa-tional institutions is to stay relevant, competitive andable to prepare students for careers in the rapidlychanging fashion and retail industries. To meet that challenge, Taylor applies her experience andknowledge to TaylorMadeSolutions, the company shefounded to help educators focus their programs onacademics and the career-driven studies that helpstudents adapt to the new realities and to carve outmeaningful careers in a marketplace that’s probablyevolving while this is being read.

Contact Stephanie at 917.397.4142 or stephanie@tmsolutions.fashion; or visit tmsolutions.fashion

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In Memoriam: Judy Donohue