Travel M - joe-ray.comBRAZIL ARGENTINA BOLIVIA Calama Santiago San Carlos de Bariloche Pucón Puerto...
1
BRAZIL ARGENTINA BOLIVIA Calama Santiago San Carlos de Bariloche Pucón Puerto Varas Puerto Natales Punta Arenas Puerto Montt URU. PERU PARA. CHILE Pacific Ocean Atlantic Ocean ECUADOR COLOMBIA VENEZUELA GUYANA SURINAME FR. GUIANA Buenos Aires San Pedro San Pedro de Atacama de Atacama San Pedro de Atacama GOLFO DE PENAS — Well before we boarded the old cargo ship, before it plod- ded past the protection of the mountainous fiords, before the skies turned stormy and the seas swelled, we were warned. We were warned not to expect a cruise, about the smell of the cattle often herded below deck, and the inevitable nausea. So when the smoky, diesel engines of the 360-foot ship prod- ded us into the open sea and the waves began sloshing us around, we expected to feel it in our stomachs. What we didn’t expect was that the pummeling would last nearly a full day — through difficult-to-digest meals, perilous showers, and a lot of restless sleep — and that Dramamine would be no cure for the per- sistent urge to hurl. ‘‘It’s called the Gulf of Punishment for a reason,’’ said German Bal- boa, the ship’s second mate, who like most of the crew seemed impervi- ous to the queasiness as he monitored our course for southern Patagonia. The passage through the Pacific was one leg of a 15-day trip my fiancee, PHOTOS BY DAVID ABEL/GLOBE STAFF Torres del Paine (top), Chile’s premier national park, near Puerto Natales; a branch of the indigenous evergreen monkey puzzle tree; a herd near the entrance to Torres del Paine; the Navimag ferry motors through a fiord from which passengers see Pio XI, the continent’s largest glacier. Getting to glacial Crossing mountain and meadow, sand and rock and snow, and lastly the icy sea BY DAVID ABEL | GLOBE STAFF CHILE CHILE, Page M4 Travel BOSTON SUNDAY GLOBE MARCH 21, 2010 | BOSTON.COM/TRAVEL M AFTER YEARS OF WAR, YOUNG RESIDENTS OF THE NEWLY INDEPENDENT KOSOVO CELEBRATE THEIR ERA. M2 MOORE TO WARHOL TO CARAVAGGIO TO 500 YEARS OF AFRICAN ART, WHOSE IS THE GALLERY TO GO TO? M2 INSIDE BOTH GIVEN $300 FOR AN OVERNIGHT TRIP, MUSIC WRITER JAMES REED LIT OUT FOR ADAMS AND ERVING . . . . . . AND NAMES REPORTER MEREDITH GOLDSTEIN HEADED FOR THE BEACH, AN ISLAND, AND WITCH CITY. M5 EXPLORE NEW ENGLAND | MASSACHUSETTS By Joe Ray GLOBE CORRESPONDENT GENERAL ROCA — Speeding down the road, Hans Vinding- Diers shouts over the phone: ‘‘V2 point two. Point four to- day? Pigeage and vit. Pump over five minutes. Open.’’ Turning onto the dirt road to Bodega Noemía de Patagonia, the car’s wheels lose contact with the ground. With one hand on the phone and the other on the gearshift, Vinding-Diers is doing what my father calls ‘‘fancy knee driving’’ and cackling like a mad- man. It sounds like he’s homogeniz- ing wines around the world but instead, we pull into the winery and he continues the conversa- tion with his assistant Jesse Katz face to face. It’s all part of harvest time at the end of the world. I spent a week in Patagonia picking, hauling, destemming, and crushing grapes with my feet at Vinding-Diers’s Bodega Noe- mía and the neighboring Bodega Chacra, run by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, an Italian wine mag- nate. Vinding-Diers, a Dane, has worked at top wineries on a few continents and Rocchetta is heir to the throne of Tuscany’s Tenuta San Guido estate. Through them, I learned the PHOTOS BY JOE RAY/FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE ARGENTINA Making the taste of this end of the earth Winemakers Hans Vinding-Diers at Bodega Noemía (top) and his neighbor Piero Incisa della Rocchetta at Bodega Chacra. ARGENTINA, Page M3 ‘To do something like this in Europe is almost impossible.’ PIERO INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA t ranks among the 10 most power- ful earthquakes ever recorded. Its tremors were so strong that scientists say they shortened the length of the day and moved the Earth’s axis. To put the 8.8-magnitude earth- quake that rocked central Chile last month in perspective, it was 500 times more powerful than the 7.0-magnitude quake that hit Haiti in January. It triggered tsunami warnings in more than 50 countries and was felt as far away as Buenos Aires and parts of Peru. About 700 people have been reported to have died in Chile as a result of the earth- quake, which damaged some 500,000 buildings at a cost that government offi- cials estimate could reach nearly $30 billion. ‘‘Given that the area impacted by the earthquake is where 80 percent of the people of Chile live, we are lucky that more didn’t die,’’ said Andrea Lagos, a spokes- Rattled, but moving forward EARTHQUAKE, Page M4 Tremors from the earthquake’s epicenter were felt in Buenos Aires and Peru. I GL M1 18:36 RED BLUE YELLOW Black
Transcript of Travel M - joe-ray.comBRAZIL ARGENTINA BOLIVIA Calama Santiago San Carlos de Bariloche Pucón Puerto...
BRAZIL
ARGENTINA
BOLIVIA
Calama
Santiago
San Carlos de Bariloche
PucónPuerto
Varas
Puerto Natales
PuntaArenas
Puerto Montt
URU.
PERU
PARA.
CHILEPacific Ocean
Atlantic Ocean
ECUADOR
COLOMBIA
VENEZUELA GUYANASURINAME
FR. GUIANA
Buenos Aires
San PedroSan Pedrode Atacamade AtacamaSan Pedrode Atacama
GOLFO DE PENAS — Well before we boarded the old cargo ship, before it plod-ded past the protection of the mountainous fiords, before the skiesturned stormy and the seas swelled, we were warned.
We were warned not to expect a cruise, aboutthe smell of the cattle often herded below deck,
and the inevitable nausea.So when the smoky, diesel engines of the 360-foot ship prod-
ded us into the open sea and the waves began sloshing usaround, we expected to feel it in our stomachs. What we didn’texpect was that the pummeling would last nearly a full day —through difficult-to-digest meals, perilous showers, and a lot ofrestless sleep — and that Dramamine would be no cure for the per-sistent urge to hurl.
‘‘It’s called the Gulf of Punishment for a reason,’’ said German Bal-boa, the ship’s second mate, who like most of the crew seemed impervi-ous to the queasiness as he monitored our course for southern Patagonia.
The passage through the Pacific was one leg of a 15-day trip my fiancee,
PHOTOS BY DAVID ABEL/GLOBE STAFF
Torres del Paine (top), Chile’s premier national park, near Puerto Natales; a branch of the indigenous evergreen monkey puzzle tree; a herd nearthe entrance to Torres del Paine; the Navimag ferry motors through a fiord from which passengers see Pio XI, the continent’s largest glacier.
Getting to glacialCrossing mountain and meadow, sand and rock and snow, and lastly the icy sea
B Y D AV I D A B E L | G L O B E S TA F F
C H I L E
CHILE, Page M4
TravelBOSTON SUNDAY GLOBE MARCH 21, 2010 | BOSTON.COM/TRAVEL
M
AFTER YEARSOF WAR, YOUNGRESIDENTS OFTHE NEWLYINDEPENDENTKOSOVOCELEBRATETHEIR ERA. M2
MOORE TOWARHOL TOCARAVAGGIO TO500 YEARS OFAFRICAN ART,WHOSE IS THEGALLERY TO GOTO? M2
INSIDE
BOTH GIVEN$300 FOR ANOVERNIGHTTRIP, MUSICWRITER JAMESREED LIT OUTFOR ADAMSAND ERVING . . .
. . . AND NAMESREPORTER MEREDITH
GOLDSTEINHEADED FOR
THE BEACH, ANISLAND, AND
WITCH CITY. M5
EXPLORE NEW ENGLAND | MASSACHUSETTS
By Joe RayGLOBE CORRESPONDENT
GENERAL ROCA — Speedingdown the road, Hans Vinding-Diers shouts over the phone:
‘‘V2 point two. Point four to-day? Pigeage and vit. Pump overfive minutes. Open.’’
Turning onto the dirt road toBodega Noemía de Patagonia,the car’s wheels lose contact withthe ground. With one hand onthe phone and the other on thegearshift, Vinding-Diers is doingwhat my father calls ‘‘fancy kneedriving’’ and cackling like a mad-man.
It sounds like he’s homogeniz-ing wines around the world butinstead, we pull into the wineryand he continues the conversa-tion with his assistant Jesse Katzface to face.
It’s all part of harvest time atthe end of the world.
I spent a week in Patagoniapicking, hauling, destemming,and crushing grapes with my feetat Vinding-Diers’s Bodega Noe-mía and the neighboring BodegaChacra, run by Piero Incisa dellaRocchetta, an Italian wine mag-nate. Vinding-Diers, a Dane, hasworked at top wineries on a fewcontinents and Rocchetta is heirto the throne of Tuscany’s TenutaSan Guido estate.
Through them, I learned the
PHOTOS BY JOE RAY/FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE
A R G E N T I N A
Makingthe taste ofthis end ofthe earth
Winemakers HansVinding-Diers at Bodega
Noemía (top) and hisneighbor Piero Incisa della
Rocchetta at Bodega Chacra.
ARGENTINA, Page M3
‘To do somethinglike this in Europe
is almostimpossible.’
PIERO INCISA DELLAROCCHETTA
t ranks among the 10 most power-ful earthquakes ever recorded.
Its tremors were so strong thatscientists say they shortened thelength of the day and moved theEarth’s axis.
To put the 8.8-magnitude earth-quake that rocked central Chile lastmonth in perspective, it was 500 timesmore powerful than the 7.0-magnitudequake that hit Haiti in January.
It triggered tsunami warnings inmore than 50 countries and was felt asfar away as Buenos Aires and parts of
Peru. About 700 people havebeen reported to have died inChile as a result of the earth-quake, which damagedsome 500,000 buildings at acost that government offi-cials estimate could reachnearly $30 billion.
‘‘Given that the areaimpacted by the earthquakeis where 80 percent of thepeople of Chile live, we arelucky that more didn’t die,’’said Andrea Lagos, a spokes-
Rattled, but moving forward
EARTHQUAKE, Page M4
Tremorsfrom theearthquake’sepicenter werefelt in BuenosAires and Peru.
I
GL M1 18:36 RED BLUE YELLOW Black
