Transform your faded memories back into brilliant color in five minutes or less

Written By Laura Greenwald & Janet Greenwald

© 2012 Stuf Productions www.nokep.org/photofinish.htm

Copyright © 2012 Stuf Productions

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in

any form whatsoever.

“Photo Finish should be used for general information purposes only. Readers using

the information herein, agree to hold NOKEP, Ready In 10 Network, Stuf Productions

and the authors, harmless from any liability incurred by its use. All information

contained within is copyrighted and may not be republished without written

permission.

For information about special discounts and bulk purchases go to

www.nokep.org/photofinish.htm or email webmaster1@nokep.org .

Manufactured in the United States of America

Getting Started

Has this ever happened to you?

You remember an old birthday party photo of yourself or your kids and you just have

to see it again. So you grab the photo album and start flipping through. You can

see the picture perfectly in your mind – after all you’ve seen it a hundred times.

Maybe not for a while, but you remember it like it was yesterday. The color of the

neatly wrapped gifts covered with bows, the party clothes all in different shades of

pastels, the paper tablecloth covered with your favorite cartoon characters under the

matching paper plates. And of course, the piece de resistance, the cake. You flip

through the album faster and faster until there it is, the photo you’ve been looking

for.

Except it looks nothing like you remember. Nothing at all. t's so faded that you can

barely even make yourself out. Or worse, it turned a horrible shade of purplish blue

or is now a mottled mess of brown and orange.

It's not your fault.

The reason your beloved photos are now unrecognizable, is a mixture of age,

exposure to light and the acidic paper prevalent in old photo albums. But the good

news is – and yes there is good news – is that by using Photoshop Elements 10 and

the five steps you’ll learn in this book, most of your old, tired, disappointing pictures

can be brought back from faded oblivion. They might not be as breathtaking as the

day you brought them home from the drugstore, but once you follow our instructions

you should be able to once again see the true color of your third birthday cake.

In this book you’ll learn five steps the pros use to correct the color in photos that

have lost their way. Let’s face it though, Photoshop Elements isn’t the easiest

software on the planet. It can be very hard to learn and even harder to get the hang

of. First we’ll go over a few of the basic skills you need to use Photoshop Elements

10. Think of it as getting the lay of the land. Then we’ll learn to color correct your

photos using five steps. Once you learn them, each will take you about a minute to

do. They are:

Minute One: Levels Minute Two: Skin Tone

Minute Three: Lighting Minute Four:

Hue/Saturation

Minute Five: Fixing Leftover Problems

Getting Started Getting Started With Photoshop Elements

Before we begin editing your first photo, let’s make sure that you know the basics of

Photoshop Elements. If you already know how to open, save and crop photos, go

ahead and skip to Minute One: Levels. But if you’re new to Photoshop Elements 10

or need to brush up on it a bit, stay right where you are.

How To Open A File In PSE 10

To open your photo, click on the file menu and choose “Open”.

A dialog box will open.

Browse through your

computer files to locate

the photo you want to

open and then click on

it, and click the Open

button. Your photo will

then appear in the edit

window.

2

If you’re like us, you probably have most of your pictures in photo albums. It’s

always hard to decide whether to take your photos off the album pages to scan

them, or just to leave them where they are and scan the entire page.

We always try to pry one of them loose, very carefully. If it comes out easily, then

we go ahead and remove it. But most of the time, they’re stuck and trying to force

the issue is just going to shred the photos you’re trying to save. In that case, it’s

MUCH better just to leave them on the page and simply scan the whole page.

Once you get the scan into the computer, you can simply crop your pictures apart

and save/edit each picture separately, without ruining the original.

Here is an entire photo album page, ready to be cropped in PSE 10

3

Photos like this one from the mid sixties, have white borders around them. The

border usually contains the date the photo was processed, so you’ll know when it

was taken. The problem is, if you leave the white border on the photo, it will throw

off your color correction. So go ahead and put the date in the title of the photo, but

crop off the border before you begin editing your photo.

Click on the Image menu and choose Crop.

To crop a photo, click on the Rectangular Marquee Tool. Then, with your mouse,

draw a box around the photo you want to work with. See the photo on the right side

below? As I draw the box, a dashed line appears around the photo.

4

Once the photo is open, make sure it's large enough to work with. To make enlarge

it go down to the bottom left hand side of the editing window. In the example below,

do you see where it says 19.08%? That’s the magnification of your photo. Right

now this photo is 19% of its full size. To make the photo larger so you can see it

better, highlight the 19.08%, delete it and type in 30 or 40 instead and hit the Enter

key.

Take a moment to save your photo with a different name before you make any

changes to it, so you don’t overwrite your original scan! Go to the File menu and

choose Save As.

5

Great, now you’re ready to begin

editing!

A dialog box will pop up to ask you for a Filename and a Format to use to save your

photo. Under Filename, type in a different name for your picture and under Format

choose JPEG and click on the Save button. Then click on the OK button on the

JPEG dialog box.

6

A Word On Scanning

Before you begin editing your first photo, make sure that you have scanned it at the

highest quality possible. Scanners use the measurement dpi, which is short for dots

per inch, to indicate the quality of the scan. The more dots per inch, the better the

scan. So when you scan your photos, scan them at a dpi of 300 or higher.

If you have Photoshop Elements 9, the directions in this book will work basically the

same way, but Adobe has tweaked their photo restoration tools so much in the past

year, that you’ll get a much better outcome with version 10.

In case you skipped the first section and are joining our program in progress, open

the first photo you wish to scan. To open a photo, click on the file menu and choose

“Open”. If you scanned an entire photo album page of photos, choose the one you

want to edit and crop it, so that you only have a single photo in the editing area.

Instructions on cropping can be found in the first section. If your photo has a white

border be sure to crop that off as well, so it doesn’t throw off the color correction.

Let's start with the easiest type of fix.

Bringing a faded photo from the 1960s back to life.

Old photos fall into four categories. Those from the 1940s or earlier were mostly

black and white and usually need very little editing. The film back then was

wonderful and tends to hold up very well. The only problem with them are tears or

damage that need to be repaired. Photos from the 1950s tend to turn purplish blue.

They’re the hardest photos to correct – we’ll get to those, as well as photos from the

1970s/1980s in the final section. Photos from the 70s and 80s have this charming

tendency to turn a horrible blend of orange and brown, making the pictures almost

non-recognizable. But don’t worry, we have a couple tricks for those as well.

If your photo is so faded that it's basically beige – which is where most photos from

the 1960s fall, you'll need more than a little tweak to bring it back to life. So let’s

jump right into intensive care! In Photoshop Elements, that’s called Levels.

7

Minute One: Levels

When your photos look beige, it basically means that the dark and light parts of your

photo have melded into one monotone color. By locating the darkest part of your

photo, or what “should” be black, Photoshop is able to reset the color balance based

on that darkest point.

For those of you who have experience with Photoshop Elements, you already know

that Photoshop experts normally set a white point and gray midpoint as well as the

black point, to improve the color balance of a photo. But for these excessively faded

photos from the sixties, we have found that setting only the black point works best.

Let’s reset the darkest point in your photo.

First we’ll have to create a new Layer.

Over on the right side of the screen, you’ll find three tabs, the Edit Tab, the Create

Tab and the Share Tab. each containing a different menu. If you aren’t on the edit

tab, just click Edit. A little submenu will come up right below it, called Layers and in

it, you’ll see a little thumbnail of the photo you’re about to edit. If you can’t see the

Layers box like the illustration below, click on the layers tab header, to open it.

8

Is it open? Great! Now click on the tiny little half gray/half white circle at the bottom.

It’s called the Create New Adjustment Layer.

From the menu that appears, choose Levels. Look at your photo very carefully and

try to find the darkest part of your picture. Is someone wearing black patent leather

shoes? What about a black tile or dark place under a table? For this photo, we

chose the dark spot under the stove. When you find it, click once on the black

eyedropper icon and then click on the darkest spot on the photo. The picture will

probably change dramatically! The first time we did this on a faded photo of a

birthday party, the colors on the clown cake blossomed to life. It really is amazing.

9

And here’s the result! Not only more color, but you can actually see a little person

in the picture! Yay! But we’re not done yet – so hang on for even more magic.

If your photo came out too dark or you simply want to try again, just click Undo (go

to the Edit menu and choose Undo). Then try clicking on the black eyedropper

again and choosing another dark spot to touch. Sometimes it takes a few tries to

find the darkest spot or to simply get the hang of it.

Once you're satisfied with the result, we’ll color correct the rest of the photo. But

before we go on, you’ll have to lock in the changes you’ve made to the layer. Click

on the Layer Menu and choose Flatten Image. The layer you created is now

officially a part of your photo and we’re free to use other effects to kick the color up a

few more notches.

10

Minute Two: Adjust Color For Skin Tone

The color correction tools are found in the Enhance menu. First, click on the adjust

color menu and choose Adjust Color for Skin Tone.

As you can tell with this photo, the skin is way too light and too pale. Let’s get the

color right first and then we’ll deal with the lighting. When the dialog box opens,

touch a spot on a person's face or arm with your mouse. If the subjects in your

photo have different skin tones, choose the skin tone of the person with the fairest

skin, to ensure everyone will have the most natural tone.

PSE10 will now identify this part of the photo as skin and adjust the photo’s color to

compensate.

If the skin is now too pink, slide the Tan

bar to the right to add more yellow.

If the skin is too yellow, just slide the

Blush bar to the right. Move the bars

back and forth until the color of the skin

looks correct to you.

Every once in a while because of an

overactive flash, one person will be way

too light or way too dark. If that’s the

case with any of the people in your

photo, we’ll take care of it in a later

section.

11

Minute Three: Adjust Lighting

At this point your overall photo is probably still a little too dark, due to the

adjustments you made during levels. On the Enhance Menu, choose Adjust

Lighting, hover over the little arrow until the sub menu pops up and then choose

Shadows/Highlights.

When you click on this setting, the photo will automatically lighten a few shades.

If it's too light, slide the Lighten Shadows bar to the left, until you’re satisfied with the

overall lighting. If it’s still too light, slide the Darken Highlights bar, below it, just a bit

to the right. This will help to tone down the light but it will also add more shadows to

the photo, so make sure you don’t go too far.

If the photo is so light that the adjustment bars don’t help, you can always just click

undo (on the Edit Menu) and try again.

12

Minute Four: Adjust the Hue and Saturation of the Color

Now that the lighting is correct, it's time to adjust the color.

Faded photos are usually missing a good deal of their red and blue color saturation.

To adjust this, we’re going to use Adjust Hue/Saturation. Go to the Enhance Menu,

choose Adjust Color, hover over the little arrow until the sub menu pops up and then

choose Adjust Hue/Saturation.

A dialog box will appear. This is where you can change the color saturation of six

different colors: Reds, Yellows, Greens, Cyans, Blues and Magentas. Since the

color that’s most often missing in photos from the 1960s photos is red, we’ll start

there. Click on the Master button and the list of colors will appear. Choose Reds.

13

Find a part of your photo that should be true red. In the example photo, that would

be the labels on the encyclopedia or other books in the bookcase.

For this task we’ll only be playing with the Saturation Bar. While keeping an eye on

the parts of your photo that should be true red, use your mouse to move the

saturation bar to the right a little at a time, until the red in your photo looks correct.

Just be careful that the picture so doesn't get too red. If it does, just move the bar in

the other direction until it looks right to you.

If you’re bad at colors or simply don’t remember what color a certain object was, go

back to your photo album and see if you can find another picture of you in the same

outfit, or another shot of the room of the same room at a different time. We’ve found

many times that photos that were taken around the same time aren’t always in the

same state of disrepair. So you’ll probably be able to use the other photo to help

you correct the color in the faded version. In fact we have some photos of the same

day on the same page of the album – one is faded while the other is as bright and

full of color as the day it was taken! Go figure! The point is, it’s a lot easier to

correct colors if you have an good idea of the way it should actually look.

Go back to the drop down menu and choose blue, then correct the blue items in

your photo. Then do your greens and your yellows. If you don’t have an object of a

certain color in the photo, just look at the effect the color correction has on the

overall color. The trick is to do the smallest amount of correction possible to get an

overall true balance of colors. You don’t want to end up with a bright green or red

photo. That’s what we’re trying to avoid! Your picture should be looking much better

by now.

14

Photos From Other Time Periods

Now let’s use those new found skills of yours to fix some other common problems of

photos from the 1950s, 1970s and 1980s.

1950s

Photos from the 50s are a little harder to color correct, especially if they have turned

blue or purple.

We’ve had photos that looked completely blue and purple, but ended up coming

back to near normal, like the great one below. Look how the colors pop now!

We’ve also had others that just don’t come back, no matter what we’ve done.

Whether they go back to a normal color depends less on the Photoshop Elements

user, than on the condition of the color pigments in your photo. As expert

photographers have told us, if the color saturation is completely broken down,

there’s not much you can do.

Here’s a quick way to tell if the color will come back. Following the instructions in

Minute One, set the black point in your photo and flatten the image. Now skip to the

instructions in Minute Four, go to the Enhance Menu and choose Adjust Color and

Adjust Hue/Saturation. Try to adjust Red, Blue, Green and Yellow like we did in the

last section. Start with red and carefully watch the colors in the photo as you move

the saturation bar. If the color doesn’t change at all when you move the bar – that

means the red pigment is no longer present in the photo.

15

If you try another color, the same thing will probably happen. If the slider bar doesn’t

make a specific color less or more intense in the photo, that color has permanently

left the photo. You might be able to adjust the skin tone, or adjust the colors that are

still intact. And this alone will probably make your photo more natural looking that it

looks right now. But that’s probably the best you can do. Once a color is gone, it’s

gone. If the color is really horrendous and you can’t just live with it, consider

changing the photo into a black and white picture. This will make the detail in the

photo pop and might just look like you meant for it to be artsy.

Photos from the 1970s/1980s

Fortunately the steps we used on the 1960s photos also work pretty well for the

mottled brown and orange photos from the seventies and early eighties. Again

we’re dealing with the ravages of time and acidic paper that are playing havoc with

the original color pigments in Kodacolor or Fuji film.

When adjusting a photo from the seventies, the most important step is finding that

blackest point and resetting it with Levels. Resetting black does a great deal to help

reset the brown and orange hues back to their original colors. You’ll probably even

begin to see more reds and blues come to life once that black point is set.

Keep in mind though that Levels will probably make your 1970s and 1980s photo

very dark. So for these photos, your next step is to adjust the lighting, rather than

going straight to the skin tone adjustment.

The moment you click on Adjust Shadow/Highlight, the photo should lighten

considerably. If it’s too light, just slide the adjustment bars in the opposite direction

until the light/dark balance is correct.

When you adjust the skin tone, opt for more blush in the skin tone versus tan, which

will bring your photo back to the orange hue you were trying to dispose of in the first

place.

Next do your Adjust Hue and Saturation, concentrating on blue, red and green

offsetting the brown, orange and yellow. If you happen to remember the specific

color of an outfit, an object or have another photo that’s not color-dysfunctional, try

to adjust the colors until the object or outfit is as close to normal as possible.

16

We just used these instructions to transform a picture from the late 70s. Original on

the left, edited version on the right. Much better don’t you think?

There’s one other trick that we found for 1970s photos that has nothing to do with

Photoshop Elements. While looking for a way to transform some particularly

stubborn 70s photos back to normal, we found a scanner that effortlessly handled

the entire process. The Epson Perfection line of scanners has unique software

called Easy Photo Fix built right in.

In fact, the color correction samples on the box are photos from the seventies. The

before – brown, orange and barely recognizable. The after – just like the day it was

taken. So we decided to give it a try. We set up the scanner and found the perfect

photo album page to correct – six photos that had turned completely orange. We

read the directions. Turn scanner on and before you scan your photo, check the box

named Auto Fix. Okay, we can handle that.

So we scanned the page thinking that it would lead us through the rest of the

correction process. And that’s when we realized that the photos it had just scanned,

now looked absolutely perfect. No correction necessary. It scanned them as if we

had just put the original on the scanner glass. Amazing! So if the photos that you

need to correct are mostly from the 70s and 80s and the brown and orange tint is

the only thing that needs to be corrected, consider saving yourself some time and

picking up an Epson Perfection Scanner.

17

Minute Five: Fixing Leftover Problems

Sometimes, no matter what you do to correct the color and overall lighting, there’s

still a little something wrong with a picture. Like one side of the picture that is torn or

damaged. Or one person was so overlit by the flash cube that they’ve basically

disappeared into a pool of light. That happened a lot with flash photography when

people tried to overcompensate for a dark room. By the way, if you don’t know what

a flash cube is, ask your parents.

Here are a few quick ways to overcome some of the most common problems.

Isolating One Part of the Picture

The easiest way to fix a photo with one isolated problem is to isolate the problem –

so you can fix it. Let’s finish editing the photo we were working on earlier. The

problem? The person is too light but the rest of the photo is well balanced. The

solution? The Quick Selection Tool.

First click on the Quick Select Tool and with your mouse, draw a line around the

person, “outlining” the part that needs to be darkened. It might take you a couple of

times to get the outline right – it’s a little sensitive. If you outline too much or too

little, just hold down the CTRL and D keys together to delete the old outline and try

again.

18

Once the person is outlined, go through the same process that you would for

darkening up a photo that is too light. Go to the Enhance Menu and choose Adjust

Lighting, then Shadow/Highlight. Now slide the bar to the left to darken the person.

Notice how it is only darkening the part of the photo that you have outlined.

Once it’s a bit darker, leaving the outline in place, adjust the skin tone and if you still

need to put more color into it to make the person look more natural, go to Enhance,

Adjust Color, Hue/Saturation and add more color to balance the outlined portion with

the rest of the photo.

When you’re done editing this area, hit CTRL+D to remove the outline. If you still

need to correct the photo, you can always use the Quick Select Tool and make

additional adjustments until the photo is balanced. Once it is, save it with a new

filename so you don’t overwrite the original.

Don’t forget that you can use those instructions to fix any isolated issues, like

making someone with pale skin look less pale in a group of full of people with a

healthy glow, making the Christmas tree look greener or the sky look bluer – without

impacting the rest of the photo.

Quick Repairs with the Spot Healing Brush

For quick repairs, the best tools are the Spot Healing Brush and Healing Brush

Tools. Right click on the bandage icon and choose the tool you want to use. These

tools are magic for getting rid of tears, spots and splotches. The spot healing brush

is the easiest to use.

19

For example if you have a tear in your photo, click on the Spot Healing Brush and

simply wipe your mouse over the tear. Depending on the size and color of the tear,

it will be nearly invisible when you’re through. The same thing is true for spots or

other small blemishes on the photo, including flaws on a person’s hair or face.

One piece of advice while working on faces is to change the photo to its full size,

100% while working on the flaw so you can really see what you’re correcting. It’s

easier than you think to attempt to fix a spot on someone’s lip and end up erasing

their mouth! And use the smallest pixel size possible to do the correction.

As you can see in the screenshot, you can

change the size and shape of the Spot

Healing “Brush” up in the left hand corner of

the screen. The pixel number under size

refers to the size of the end of the brush –

the smaller the pixel size the smaller the

brush. You can change the shape of the

brush by pulling down the menu under the

“brush stroke” and change the size of the

brush by clicking on the number and

moving the slider to the right to enlarge and

to the left to reduce the brush size.

So going back to our photo from

earlier, there is a white mark on the

floor. A few little scratches are fine

– after all the photos are old. But a

white streak on an otherwise gray

carpet? Not good, when it’s so

easy to fix.

20

All we have to do is click on the Bandage icon, choose Spot Healing Brush and with

your mouse, just wipe over the flaw. Let the mouse go and… As you can see in the

screenshot, you can change the size and shape of the Spot Healing “Brush” up in

the left hand corner of the screen. The pixel number under size is the size of the

end of the brush – the smaller the pixel size the smaller the brush. You can change

the shape of the brush by pulling down the menu under the “brush stroke” and

change the size of the brush by clicking on the number and moving the slider to the

right to enlarge and to the left to reduce the brush size.

21

© 2012 Stuf Productions www.nokep.org/photofinish.htm

22

For larger problems in a photo, especially if discoloration is involved you’ll have to use the

regular Healing Brush. It works like the spot brush, but with an additional step.

Let’s say you’re repairing a photo and you notice that the subject’s dress has a big splotch

in it. Wiping over it with the Spot Healing Brush does nothing but make it worse. Undo the

actions with the spot brush and click on the Healing Brush. Take a look at the dress – the

parts that aren’t a part of that discolored splotch. Find a part of the true color or pattern –

how you want the discolored part to turn out after the repair. Position your cursor in that

non-discolored spot of the dress and click ALT+CTRL together. Your cursor will turn into a

round bullet and the brush will “read” the information where you clicked. It actually will pick

up the color, texture or pattern that you clicked on, much like dipping a brush into a bucket

of paint.

Now click on your mouse and wipe it over the splotch very carefully. As you can see, the

color/pattern/texture you clicked on, is being transferred onto the splotch, to repair it. Thing

is, it can take a while to get a good result and the worse the problem the longer it will take.

So I’m not going to pretend that you will be able to use the Healing Brush the first time and

do perfect repairs – far from it. If you need to use the Healing Brush to make serious

repairs, do yourself a favor and use the video tutorials created by Photoshop Elements to

catch you up and get you some serious healing skills. To find the videos, go to the Help

menu and choose Video Tutorials from the dropdown menu.

It Looks Like Our Five Minutes Are Up

Well that’s all five of the steps and all you need to change your faded, blue, purple or brown

and orange photos back to full color and fabulous! We hope you enjoyed practicing your

new photo coloring skills as we did teaching them. Just remember the more you use them

the better and faster you’re going to get. So get going and start scanning those albums.

Before you know it, you’ll be looking at photos that actually live up to your memories.

Introducing the Get Your Stuff Together Collection

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About The Authors

Janet and Laura Greenwald are one of the only mother and daughter screenwriting

teams in the entertainment industry. They are authors of "Ready In 10," creators of

the Ready In 10 downloadable Get Ready Kit and writers of original, one-hour

dramas and screenplays including "Without Consent".

The Greenwalds were introduced to disaster preparedness the hard way, when a

jumbo-jet crashed across the street from their home. After a few floods,

earthquakes and a horrendous medical catastrophe that took the life of their

mother/grandmother, Elaine Sullivan, they created three health care laws in

California and Illinois, founded the Next of Kin Education Project and created

Notify In 7, a nationally recognized next of kin training program for hospitals.

When they found that so many other families had gone through similar experiences

as they had, they decided to share their story to keep other families from having to

live through the same medical nightmare. The result was "Without Consent," a

screenplay for a feature film that is already attracting attention from actors and

producers.

After seeing hundreds of thousands of people suffering so much loss during the last

few years -- from Hurricane Katrina, to the Japan, Chile and Haiti earthquakes,

along with countless tornadoes and floods – the Greenwalds decided to use the

knowledge and tools they had gained to teach families how to be ready to deal with

any disaster or emergency in 10 minutes. The result was "Ready In 10," one of the

only downloadable disaster preparedness kits in existence.

"Ready In 10" and "Get Your Stuff

Together" contain ten steps that can easily

be completed in one afternoon. It is

specially designed to help people get

through a disaster or emergency with their

loved ones, vital documents and keepsakes

intact. In other words they won’t just

survive a disaster, they’ll be able to pick

up their lives and go on as quickly as

possible.

Has this ever happened to you? You remember an old birthday party photo of yourself or your kids and you just have to see it again. So you grab the photo album and start flipping through. You can see the picture perfectly in your mind – after all you’ve seen it a hundred times. Maybe not for a while, but you remember it like it was yesterday. You flip through the album faster and faster until there it is, the photo you’ve been looking for. Except it looks nothing like you remember. It's so faded that you can barely even make yourself out. Or worse, it turned a horrible shade of purple or orange. The good news is that by using Photoshop Elements 10 and the five quick and easy to use steps you’ll learn in this book, you can easily bring your tired, old pictures back from faded oblivion. Other Books by Janet & Laura Greenwald Get Your Stuff Together Ready In 10 The Wealth of Tulips Notify in 7 Grandma Edna's Recipes - Desserts Visit www.getyourstufftogether.com and ww.readyin10.org for more Action Plans, free guides, emergency checklists, videos, and articles.

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