Traditional Victorian Greenhouses

HARTLEY BOTANIC TRADITION 6, 8 & 10

ERECTION AND GLAZING INSTRUCTIONS

FROM HARTLEY BOTANIC LIMITED

It is essential that these instructions are read carefully all the way through before startingerection. It is also suggested that each part is identified and how and when it is used tocomplete the structure.

The plinth on which the greenhouse is to be placed must be level and flat. An unevenfoundation will lead to frustrating delays and subsequent disappointment.

29412 - Tradition 6,8 & 10 - 20 pages_Layout 1 06/05/2011 12:18

Hartley Botanic Greenhouse

Assembly Instructions

Two people required for assembly

Tools required2 x Spanners 10mmPhillips screw driverLarge flat screwdriverStep ladderDrill8mm drill bit8mm masonry bit3.5mm drill bit.

Contents

Gable ends A Nuts and boltsBase rails B a 6 x 16mmHalf spans C b 6 x 12mmRidge fish plates D g 6 x 20mmEaves horizontals ERidge horizontals FFull capping G ScrewsHalf capping H c 50mm roundheadPlastic ‘H’ strip J d rawl plugRidge cover K e No. 8 x 12.5mm self tapping screwRidge cover end caps k f plastic sealer washerGutters L h No. 8 x 9.5mm self tapping screwDown pipes M i No. 10 x 12.5mm self tapping screwDown pipe brackets N j 5 x 10mm cheese head nut & screwDoor assembly O k 5 x 8mm cheese head nut & screwDoor runner PDraught seal capping QVent assembly RVent capping frame SPlastic edge strip TDownpipe spigot UDownpipe collar V

Fixings

29412 - Tradition 6,8 & 10 - 20 pages_Layout 1 06/05/2011 12:18 Page 2

Please follow the instructions carefully and refer to the drawings.

Lay the two gable ends A and the two side base rails B on the ground in position ensuring that the doorend is as required. See Fig. 1.

Take the half spans C lay them on the ground and pair up left and right. See Fig. 2.

Take the ridge fish plates D align with holes and put one each side at the apex of the spans and securewith nuts and bolts b. into the two outer holes only. See Fig. 3.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

A

A

B

B

C

C


Take the eaves horizontals ‘E’. Four will have cut outs (two left hand and two right hand) and these arepositioned at the gable ends (with two extra behind a partition if applicable). With the gable ends ‘A’lying down and the brackets facing up, fix the two left and two right hand eaves horizontals using bolts‘b’. See Fig. 4.

Lift and stand one gable end. One person now holds securely and upright in position. See Fig. 5.

Bolt the bottom corners of one gable to the base rails ‘B’ using bolts ‘b’. See Fig. 6.

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6


Double Door

Tradition 6, 8 and 10

The double door assembly for use on either gable ends or partitions will fit in much the same way as a standard single door assembly. However, there are a few differences of which the installer should be aware.

When glazing the double door gable or partition assembly, D-‐seal capping is used on either side of the door aperture. A short full capping is used above each. See Fig.1.

Glaze the doors in the same way as described in the single door section, but note that the half capping with the handle is positioned to the right of the left door and to the left of the right door. The left hand door can be identified by a draught seal protruding from the right ride, as viewed from the front. See Fig.2.

Before attaching the door runner, locate the door wheels into the track at either end of the runner and slide the doors into the middle. Lift the door assembly onto the door slide so that the guide at the bottom of the doors aligns with the upstand of the door slide. Secure the door runner with M6x12 screws.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Page 29

Take one of the assembled spans and position it next to the eaves horizontals, slotting the bottombetween the baserail brackets. Fix to the baserail using type a bolts. See fig. 7.

Bolt the eaves horizontals ‘E’ to both sides of the span using nuts and bolts ‘b’. Repeat the fixingprocess to the rest of the spans and eaves horizontals. See Fig. 8.

Lift and stand the other gable end and with one person holding it upright, position and fix to base railand eaves horizontals. See Fig. 9.

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

Fig. 9


Partition

Tradition 6, 8 & 10

The partition assembly is much the same as the door gable assembly but care must be made not to confuse the two items. The partition can be identified by the extra brackets which are located on the front, as well as the rear. See Fig.1.

Position the partition assembly into the baserail brackets, with the glazing side (also the side onto which to door will attach) facing the door end. Secure the assembly with the same screws used for the attachment of the half spans.

Attach the horizontals to the brackets on either side of the partition in the same way as they are attached to the half spans. Note: the ridge horizontals have a bracket at one end only – the non-‐bracketed end attaches to the partition. Note: the eaves horizontal which fits to the rear of the partition is notched at one end. See Fig.2.

Glazing and fitting of door is the same as on the door end, however only narrow double doors can be used. See separate sheet for fitting of double doors.

Fig.1

Fig.2

Page 28

Using a step ladder, position and bolt the left and right ridge horizontals (F) using type b bolts at thegables and type g bolts at the intermediate spans - See fig. 10. Note: the ridge horizontals next to apartition (if applicable) have a bracket at one end only and a type b bolt is used at the non bracketed end.

Two people now lift the structure onto the prepared brick base. Once in position and sitting evenly thebase rail can be fixed to the bricks by drilling through the base rail using the 8mm drill bit and drillingthe bricks using masonry bit. One screw into each bay is required. Take care to avoid the cementbetween the bricks and secure using the large roundhead screws c with raw plugs d. and plastic sealerwasher f, See Fig. 11.

Using the step ladder slide in the ridge cover K. Centre it and align with gable end edges. Position ridgeend cap ‘k’ on end of ridge cover and mark through the holes. Drill the ridge cover with a Ø 3.5mm bitand secure with type ‘e’ screws. See Fig. 12a. On longer models the ridge cover will be in two sections.Using sealant (not supplied) stick the joining piece over the joint. See Fig. 12b.

Fig. 11

Fig. 10

Fig. 12a

Fig. 12b

k

Ridge cover ‘K’

Ridge Horizontals ‘F’

e

Ridge coverJoining piece

Joint


Page 27


With the adjacent gable panes in position, take a door capping spacer and position it against the non‐glazed side of a gable door‐vertical. Secure the vertical full capping using No.8x12 self tapping screws. Repeat at the other side. Take the 737mm long half capping and with the leg on the non‐glazed side, screw to the horizontal above the door (for outward opening doors this will be full capping). See Fig.3.

Place the 1033x545 pane in the top of the door and the 593x545 kick panel in the bottom of the door. With the assistant supporting them, position the door vertical half capping and secure with No.8x9.5 self tapping screws. Position the upper and lower half capping, then the horizontal full capping and secure with No.8x9.5 screws. See Fig.4.

Fig. 3

Fig. 4


Appendix:

Swing Door

For ‘glass‐to‐ground’ type structures, take the door assembly and position into the door gable aperture. Note: inward opening doors fit from the inside, but outward opening doors fit from the outside. With one person holding the outer frame, open the door and with a 7mm bit, drill straight through the door outer frame and the structure frame in the eight approximate positions shown in Fig.1. Note: avoid hinge and lock positions. Secure the frame with M6x30 screws – pushed in from the door side.

Tip: drill and bolt the top holes first to relieve the assistant.

When fitting the door to a ‘planthouse’ (version with a dwarf wall), the door is fitted as above, but with 12s x 100mm long screws in the lower four positions. Drill the holes with a 7mm bit and mark the four positions through onto the wall. Remove the door frame and open up the holes in the gable verticals so that they will clear the plastic rawl plugs. Drill the walls with an 8mm masonry bit and insert the rawl plugs. Replace the door and secure with the 12s x 100mm long screws. See Fig.2.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Glazing – note: the glass is held into the framework with aluminium capping. There are two types ofcapping – full capping G which traps the glass on both sides, and half capping H which traps the glasson one side only (such as an end or gable perimeter). See Fig. 14.

Take care while glazing the assembly. Start with the roof vents and face vents (if ordered). Lay the ventassembly R down with the open channel up and carefully place the glass with the rubber edging into theframe. Position the capping frame S and screw down with type ‘e’ self tapping screws. See Fig. 13.

Using the step ladder, one person holds the vent assembly with the casement stay/autovent bracket at thebottom while the other person slides it up the roof. Push the rubber bead on the vent frame into therecess on the ridge horizontal ‘F’ and, while the other person holds, attach a full capping ‘G’ on one sidewith one screw ‘e’ at the top. See Fig. 14

Starting at one end, continue to glaze the roof with one person positioning the glass whilst the otherscrews down the capping; ensuring that the rubber bead is inserted into the ridge horizontals. Note:before fitting the large roof panes and the panes below the roof vents, remove the bottom rubber beadand push fit the plastic edging strip ‘T’. See Fig 15.

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

Fig. 13


Remove the upper rubber bead from the pane below the vent (as shown in Fig. 14). Carefully lift thecapping and using the plastic H strip ‘J’ to join the pane to the vent, slide the pane into position.Complete the fixing of the capping either side using self tapping screws ‘e’ and repeat the steps aboveuntil the roof is fully glazed. See Fig. 16.

Before glazing the vertical walls, first slide the gutters L into position, noting which end the downpipeoutlets are required. Centralize the gutters so that the same amount protrudes at each end. On structureslonger than 7 panes in length, the gutter will be in two parts, with a welded slip joint. Slide the twohalves together and drill a ø7mm hole through the centre. Slide the two halves apart and apply a liberalamount of sealant (not supplied) to the slip joint. Slide the two halves back together and secure with atype ‘a’ screw and nut. See Fig 17.

Take a glass side panel and sit the bottom in first. While one person is holding, fix the vertical cappingwith self tapping screws ‘e’. Note: there are two left and two right vertical half capping with notches cutout – which are positioned at the top to clear the gutter lip. See Fig. 18. Work down each side tocomplete vertical wall glazing.

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

e

Fig. 16J


Page 25


Page 7

Section 4. Potting Shoe

For staging with a lath type top tray, place the shoe in the desired location on top of the laths and mark through the four holes in the base. Remove the shoe and drill the four positions with a Ø3.5mm bit. Replace the shoe and secure with No.8x9.5 self tapping countersunk screws.

For staging with a flat sheet top tray, place the shoe on top of the flat sheet. Securing with the self tapping screws is optional.

For staging with a corrugated sheet type top tray, place the shoe at the desired end of the staging and lap the corrugations as close to the shoe as possible.

Section 4. Partitions

Stand-alone planthouse (walled structure) staging remains unaffected, but attached staging on a glass-to-ground structure needs to be shorter at the front glazed side of the partition. This is achieved by use of a shorter 593mm front/rear end frame. Ensure that these are used at the partition end of the staging. Because the short section has no radial/span to which it can be attached, an extra leg is supplied for use at the rear corner.

Section 5. Abutting Structures

Glass-to-ground attached staging remains unaffected, but planthouse (walled structure) staging is increased in length to fill the gap created by the lack of a wall at the abutting end. This is achieved by use of a longer 743mm front/rear end frame. Ensure that these are used at the abutting end. In order that the lengths of the shelving laths remain consistent, the end tray at the abutting uses corner pieces and mid legs set in from the end (as outlined in section 1).

Section 6. Gable Staging

Staging across the gable is always of the free-standing type, with a lower parcel shelf. The staging will fit on one of three ways; across a full gable, next to one side of staging to create an L shape, and between two sides of staging. The assembly method is the same as that shown in section 2, with the only difference being that the front/rear frame is in one piece.


Page 6

Flat or Corrugated Sheet type

For flat and corrugated sheet options cross members will be necessary for additional support. For flat sheet trays the sheets must adjoin on the centre of the cross member. Position sheets in the trays and align the cross members under the joints. Mark through the brackets at either end. Remove the sheets and cross members and drill through the front/rear frames using a 7mm bit. Re-position the cross members and secure with M6x16 button head screws. For corrugated sheets, position the cross members at approximately equal distances apart. See Fig. 10.

Note: lengths up to 4 pane have 1 cross member, lengths up to 7 pane have 2 cross members and lengths up to 10 panes have 5 cross members.

Drop the flat sheet or corrugated sheets into position. The corrugated sheets are supplied over-length and should be overlapped until the required size is obtained. See Fig. 11 and Fig. 12.

Fig. 10

Fig. 11 Fig. 12

Line up the long eaves capping on the eaves horizontals underneath the gutter. Tighten with self tappingscrews ‘e’ and when the capping starts to trap the gutter lip, lift up the gutter as far as it will go. SeeFig.19.

Take the plastic spigot ‘U’ and collar ‘V’ and un-couple by screwing anti-clockwise. Position the spigotin the top of the gutter outlet hole and slide the collar over the top of the downpipe ‘M’. Push thedownpipe up onto the spigot and slide the collar upwards as far as it will go. Screw the collar clockwiseuntil the downpipe is secured. Slide the downpipe bracket ‘N’ until it aligns with a capping hole. Usinga self tapping screw ‘e’, fix the bracket into position through the capping. See Fig. 20.

Face/ LouvreVents – note: the vents are to be installed as described below, but will be fitted sequentiallywith the rest of the glazing as detailed later.

If face vents are to be fitted position the bottom pane into the baserail and while one person holds, slidethe retaining horizontal onto the top of the pane. Then position the face vent into the retaining horizontaland with the other person holding, the capping can be fixed as for the other panes - See Fig. 21.1

If optional louvers are to be fitted insert the assembly at the bottom centre panel of the gable or theposition(s) indicated on the plans along the side. Drop the bottom of the louver assembly in first andthen slide the retaining horizontal over the top. The upper glass pane can now be positioned and thecapping fixed as for the other panes. See Fig. 21.2

Fig. 19

Fig. 21.1 Fig. 21.2

e

Fig. 20



Page 5

Section 3. Top tray.

Lath Type

The front/rear mid frame of the top tray should have three holes at the central position of the staging. To enable the alignment of the last lath with the slot near the end of the front/rear end frame, the middle lath must be positioned over either the centre hole or the off-centre holes, dependent upon the staging length. See the chart below:

POSITION OF MID LATH

LENGTH PLANTHOUSE (WALLED) STRUCTURE GLASS-TO-GROUND STRUCTURE

3 PANE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE 4 PANE CETNRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE 5 PANE CETNRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE 6 PANE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE 7 PANE CETNRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE 8 PANE CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE 9 PANE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE 10 PANE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE

Take a middle/end lath (these have a screw slot underneath as opposed the intermediate laths which do not). Slide an M6x12 hexagon head screw a little way in each end and drop the lath into the frame with the screws locating into the central holes. Secure the lath from underneath with M6 nuts. See Fig.8.

Take two plastic spacing blocks and push them onto the inside of the front/rear frame until they click into place (ensure they are pushed tightly against the lath). Drop in an intermediate lath (with no screw slot) and push tightly against the spacing blocks. Continue along either side of the centre lath until the last position is reached. Take two middle/end laths and slide an M6x12 hexagon head screw a little way in each end. Drop into the staging frame, locating the screws in the end position slots. Slide the laths tightly against the spacing blocks and secure from underneath with M6 nuts. See Fig.9.

Fig. 9

Fig.8

Fit the glass to the non door gable end first. Carefully lifting the centre top panel, position centrally inthe frame and insert the bottom of the glass into the horizontal channel. Push the panel back against theframe and whilst one person holds, screw down the diagonal half capping H at the top with type escrews. Note: check the mitres are at the correct ends of the capping before fitting. Continue to fit thetwo outer panels and finish screwing down the capping. Lift the lower panels into position and firstslide the top of the panel into the horizontal channel above as far as it will go. Then let the panel dropinto the lower channel. The vertical capping G and H can now be fixed. See Fig. 22.

Continue fitting the glass on the door gable (and partition if ordered) inserting the top pane first and thenthe outer angled pieces as described above. Fit the lower panels as shown in Fig.22 above. If the gable(or partition) has a single door, one of the two vertical capping has a draught-seal ‘Q’ which is fitted tothe right side of the door with a short length of full capping ‘G’ above. If the gable (or partition) has adouble door then there will be a draught-seal ‘Q’ capping on either side. Note: the draught-seal cappinghas a large notch and a small notch: the large notch goes at the top. See Fig. 23.

Fig. 22

Fig. 23



Page 4

Fig. 6 Fig. 7

Take a shelving lath and slide M6x12 hexagon head screws into the screw slot – one for each shelf support. Slide the screws along so that they align with the holes in the support angles. Lower the lath onto the support angles and locate the screws through the shelving support holes. Secure from underneath with an M6nut and continue along until all the laths are in place. See Fig.6 and Fig.7.

Note: for staging lengths of up to 5 panes, the shelving lath will be supplied in a single length, but for structures of six panes or more, the shelf lath will be supplied in two or more lengths.

For structures of six panes length or more, establish where the laths join using the chart below. At each of these positions fit a second shelf support on the opposite side of the mid leg. If placed in the correct order, the shelf laths will join at the midpoint between the two back to back supports.

For the fitting of the top tray, please refer to section 3.

Take the door assembly ‘O’ and place the plastic door bottom onto the door slide which is located at thebottom of the door/partition assembly. With one person holding the door angled slightly away at the top,position the door runner ‘P’ with the door wheels sitting on the door runner rail. Push the door andrunner back towards the gable/partition assembly, align the two holes and bolt on the runner with bolts‘b’. See Fig. 24.

Fit the glass door panels by inserting the top of the panels first, then sliding down into the channel at thebottom. Attach the capping on each side of the door using self tapping screws ‘e’. On a single door thecapping with the handle fits on the left. On double doors the handles fit where the doors meet. See Fig.25.

Fig. 24

Fig. 25



Page 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Section 2. Stand alone staging for gables and planthouse (walled) structures.

Take two front/rear end frames (one of each hand) and an end frame. Place the corners together and push a corner leg (angle section) into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align. Position M6 nuts into the recess behind the holes and secure with M6x12button head screws. Repeat for the other end frame.

Take a front/rear mid frame and position end-to-end with the assembled end frame. Slide a mid leg (T-section) into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align and secure with M6x12 buttonhead screws. Repeat on the other side and continue along until all the sections are joined and the mid legs are in place. See Fig.4.

Position a shelf support against the holes in the corner legs, ensuring that the side with lath holes is lowermost. Secure with M6x12 button head screws. Repeat at the other end. Position the remaining shelf supports against the holes in the mid legs and, ensuring that the sides with the lath holes are uppermost, secure with M6x12 button head screws. See Fig.5.

STAGING – MK1 TYPEIdentify the left and right end brackets and place against inside the gable frame using the dimensionshown in Fig.26. Mark through the two holes, spot and drill using a 6.5mm bit. Note: be careful to drillonly the inner face of the gable frame. Secure with type ‘b’ screws with the nut behind. Attach theintermediate brackets to the spans with type ‘h’ self tapping screws, using the dimensions hown inFig.27. Note: the bracket positions given place the legs at the plinth top level. If the floor is lower, thenthe brackets should be lowered by the same amount.

The corner sections of the staging framework may be supplied in straight lengths with two notches somedistance from either end, simply and gently bend these by hand to form a 90° angle as shown in Fig 28.

Make up the complete box sections with the intermediate straight sections, the cross members and thestaging legs, bolting all these together with ‘b’ type nuts and bolts.

The entire assembly can now be placed in position, the back edge sitting on the brackets and the frontstanding on its legs.Place the corrugated trays in position with trays overlapping each other at the ends.NOTE: To help to retain moisture and to provide a flat surface, we suggest that pea gravel be spreadover the surface of the boards to a depth of at least 1”.

End bracket-one left hand andone right hand bolted to ends using b bolts

Bracket screwed to all half spans4.2mm screws (self tapping)9.5mm long (type ‘h’) End bracket

Intermediate section

Cornersection Cross

members

Staging legs

Cross member

Intermediate section

Cross member

Cornersection

Cornersection

Staging legsFig. 28

769m

mfr

om p

linth

to

top

of b

rack

et

Fig. 26

790

Fig. 27

from

plin

th t

oto

p of

bra

cket



Page 2

Fig. 2

Take two front/rear end frames (one of each hand) and an end frame. Place the corners together and push a corner piece into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align. Position M6 nuts into the recess behind the holes and secure with M6x12 button head screws. Repeat for the other end frame.

Take a front/rear mid frame and position end-to-end with the assembled end frame. Slide a butt strap into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align and secure with M6x12 button head screws. On the other side use a mid leg (which is a T-section) to join the mid frame, again using M6x12 button head screws. Continue along until all the sections are joined and the mid legs are in place. See Fig.2.

Note for staging with lath top tray; on structures with a length of six panes or more, the three holes in the front/rear mid frames must be central to the entire run. Use the chart below in order to achieve this.

6 PANE – END FRAME – 743mm MID FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – 743mm MID FRAME – END FRAME





Lift the staging assembly (with help from others if needed) onto the end and mid brackets which were fitted earlier. Using a spirit level and string, ensure that the staging is even and level by making adjustments to the ground under the legs if necessary. See Fig.3.

For the fitting of the top tray, please refer to section 3.

Fig. 3

SHELVING ERECTION INSTRUCTIONS

Using type ‘h’ self tapping screws, fit the support brackets to the spans ‘C’ at the positions shown in Fig.29.2. Note: ensure that the support brackets are all fixed with the offset to the same side as the others.Hook the support slings into the upper and lower brackets. Identify the two types of shelving lath – theend laths have slots at one end only, while the middle laths have slots at both ends.

Starting from a gable end, take the end laths and place four sections with the unslotted ends resting onthe gable horizontal glazing member. Place the slotted ends on the shelving sling. Take four middlelaths and position alternately between the end laths on the support sling. Continue along the glasshouseuntil the final four end laths are fitted. Note; take great care not to disturb the slings until the final lathsare positioned. See Fig. 29.1.

Note: if the shelving does not run the full length between the ends or end and partition (such as a shortrun or the position in front of a partition), drill and bolt one end lath using the 35mm long screwprovided.



Page 1

Mk2 DOMESTIC STAGING

Section 1. Attached staging for the sides of glass-to-ground structures

Identify the left and right end brackets and place against inside of the gable frame using the dimension shown in Fig.1. Mark through the two holes, spot and drill using a 6.5mm bit. Note; be careful to drill only the inner face of the gable frame. Secure with M6x12 button head screws with the nut behind.

Tip: when drilling, use a small pilot drill first and get someone to hold a scrap sheet of metal or plastic behind to hole to prevent damage when the drill runs through.

Take the mid brackets and using the fixing position shown in Fig.1, secure to the screw slots on the inside of the spans using 9.5mm long self tapping screws.

Note: if the floor of the greenhouse is set lower than the plinth top, the dimensions to the top of the end and mid brackets must be increased by the difference.

Fig. 1

BLINDSInstructions for fitting spring roller blinds.

It is important to note that the material on the blinds leads to the roller on the side nearest the glass andthis determines which side the flat pin and appropriate bracket locates. The end blinds are 27mm shorterthan the middle blinds, and if a partition is fitted then the blinds to the front of the partition are 9mmshorter. The roller brackets are fitted to the spans and the ends using type ‘h’ self tapping screws.

736 709727 709


Appendix:

AUTOVENT

Changes made to Autovent in adverse weather conditions i.e.: Strong Winds or storms

1) Remove thumb screw from the Autovent

2) Place string around the Autovent arms and tie shut

This will enable the Autovent to stay in the closed position until the weather conditions change wherethe Autovent can be restored to its normal working position

Autovent ArmsThumb Screw


With one person holding the blind or blind roller in position, fit the brackets in the positions shown. Thecord should be left wrapped around the blind at this point as the spring will be pre-tensioned when this isunravelled.

If staging is present, mark and drill the rear staging rail and fix the cord wheel assembly using type ‘b’screws, ensuring that the position of the wheel aligns with the centre of the blind. Mark and drill thefront staging rail and fit the cleat in alignment with the wheel using type ‘h’ screws.

If staging is not present fix the cord wheel assembly to the baserail using type ‘b’ screws, again ensuringthat the wheel aligns with the centre of the blind. Note - leave a small gap at the bottom to allow thewheel to turn freely. Fix the cleat to the screw slot using type ‘h’ screws on the back of the adjacent spanat a convenient height. At the end blind, there will be two cleats on the same span - one positioned abovethe other.


Instructions for Autovent fittings.

Position the autovent bracket

against the two central holes at the

rear (or inside) of the vent outer

frame. Secure with two type ‘j’

screws and nuts. Be sure that the

nuts are fitted on the inside of the

bracket with the head of the screw

between the inner and outer vent

frame. See fig. 31.

Orientate the autovent as shown in

Fig. 32 and position the feet against

the bracket and inner frame. Using

two type ‘j’ screws and nuts, attach

the autovent to the bracket.

Note: position the screw heads to

the inside of the foot as shown.

Place the other autovent foot

over the central holes in the

vent inner frame and secure

with type ‘i’ self tapping

screws. Note: type ‘i’ self

tapping screws are thicker

than all the others.

Adjustment of the opening

temperature can be made by

means of the knurled brass

collar at the top of the

autovent. Turn the collar

clockwise fully. Await the

desired temperature and turn

anticlockwise until the vent

starts to open. The vent will

now open automatically

when this temperature is

reached.

Do not attempt to force shut

the vent once open, or tie the

autovent in the closed

position as damage may

occur.

Fig. 31.

Fig. 32.

Page 17


VENTS

Instructions for manual vent fittings.

Place the stay bracket against the rear (or inside) of the vent outer frame and align the two bracket

holes with their corresponding holes in the vent. Secure with two type ‘k’ screws and nuts. Be sure

that the nuts are fitted on the inside of the bracket with the head of the screw between the inner and

outer vent frame.

Position the vent stay against the two non central holes in the vent inner frame and secure with two

type ‘e’ self tapping screws. See Fig. 30.

Note: the vent may have bracket and stay already fitted.

Fig. 30.


Hartley Botanic provides the highest quality greenhouses and glasshouses. Hartley greenhouses and glasshouses are endorsement by the Royal Botanic

Gardens Kew.

For more information or contact details please visit our website http://www.hartley-botanic.co.uk/

http://www.hartley-botanic.co.uk/

http://www.hartley-botanic.co.uk/

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