Top Projects in Overshot

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A Baker's Dozen

Top Projectsin Overshot

BEST OF



Almost no experience in weaving can equal the thrill of placing your first pattern picks in overshot. How is it possible thatonly four shafts can provide so much pattern! Most of us have to weave a lot of overshot before we understand it wellenough to create our own drafts and design our own pieces, but the lure to do so is irresistible. Whether you’re new to

this structure or a longtime overshot fan, you’ll love weaving the projects in this collection or using them as springboards to new

designs. This seventh book in the Best of Handwoven series includes thirteen favorite projects in overshot, from tiny pieces likepincushions to scarves and placemats to a large coverlet. The use of color and materials in these projects spans the range fromtraditional to contemporary. You’ll find many interesting and unique design innovations, such as creating color effects in the warp

and tabby weft, drafting border designs that contrast with the central field, and placing isolated inlaid motifs on a plain-weavecloth. There are enough great ideas in this book to fill your house with gloriously patterned overshot fabrics.

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B lue Po int Runner — G i s e l a E v i tt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Overshot P lacemats i n P ink and Whi te — Margare t Gaynes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Ca l l i ope Purse — Margare t Sheppard w i t h Jan i ce Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Tea Cozy with Placemats — Beth Kamphu i s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Pine B loom Cover le t — Ka th ryn Wer t enberger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Overshot Runner wi th Borders — Gene E . Va lk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Country Overshot Table Mat — Jan i ce Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

In la id Overshot P lacemats — Av i s Pe r r y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Overshot P incush ions — Sue Beever s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Bordered Overshot Runner — Sue Beever s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Wedd ing-Present P i l l ows — Nancy A r t hu r Ho sk in s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Name-Draf t Overshot S car f — G i se la Ev i t t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Runner for an Ant ique Chest — Donna Lee Adams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

T ips for P lann ing and F in i sh ing Overshot Fabr i cs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

C O N T E N T S

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© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All r ights reserved. h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m 1

B L U E P O I N T R U N N E RG I S E L A E V I T T

Work a row of hemstitching over groups of 4 ends and

the last 2 weft picks. Weave 1 pick of plain weave. Thenweave the pattern section of the runner, following the trea-dling in the draft. Weave the plain weave (hemstitch), border,and hem sections as at the beginning, but in reverse.

FINISHING

Turn ends twice so that the full pattern shows on the right sideand the fold on the wrong side meets the beginning of thehemstitched plain weave. Slip-stitch the hem in place with

sewing thread. Handwash the fabric in warm water with milddetergent; lay flat to dry. Press while still damp.

11 1

M

M

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D

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11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 22 22

1

22 2 2

33 3 333 333

44 444 4

3

11

4

1

4

1

4

1 11

2222

33

1

2

11

22

1

222 2333

4

33

4

33

4

32

32

4

32

4444 4 4

111

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 223

64

677670

277

334 4 4

/

/

MM

MM

M

M

MM

M

M

MMM

M

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MM

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MMM

MM

MM

MMMM

M

MMM

MM

MMM

MMMM

5x

= 1 strand 20/2 light blue and 1 strand 20/2 medium blueD = 1 strand 20/2 dark blue and 1/strand 20/2 medium blue

plain weave, tabby

patternHeddle count

shaft 1shaft 2shaft 3shaft 4

border

1 9 x

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick(alternating between treadles 1 and 2).

cont’d.

←

cont’d.

←

PROJECT NOTES

From among the 1,752 name drafts we developed for theregistrants of Convergence 1990 in San Jose, California, I

chose Suzanne Middlebrook’s to weave into a runner. Therunner was among several pieces we displayed at the confer-ence so that participants could see how their name drafts

might be used.

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot.

FINISHED DIMENSIONS

83 ⁄ 8" wide by 35" long. Hems use an additional 21 ⁄ 2" at eachend. (Add to the number of repeats for a wider runner.)

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb,975 yd natural. Pattern weft: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400

yd/lb: 320 yd medium blue, 275 yd light blue, and 45 yd

dark blue.

YARN SOURCES

20/2 pearl cotton is available from most weaving retailers.

NOTIONS and OTHER MATERIALS

White sewing thread.

TOTAL WARP ENDS 277.

WARP LENGTH

21 ⁄ 4 yd (allows 4" take-up and 33" loom waste).

E.P.I. 30.

WIDTH IN REED 9

1

⁄ 4

". P.P.I. 58 (29 for tabby, 29 for pattern).

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE

8% in width and 10% in length.

WEAVING

Begin with 21 ⁄ 2" plain weave using natural 20/2 tabby weft.

Weave the border using two strands of 20/2 cotton togetherfor the pattern weft as indicated in the draft and end with 5picks plain weave with the tabby weft only.

DRAFT




Originally published in Handwoven® , November/December 1997, pp. 37, 78




O V E R S H O T P L A C E M A T S I N P I N K A N D W H I T EM A R G A R E T G AY N E S

DRAFT

11 1

PP

P

P

PP

PP

PP

PP

PP

P

PP

P

PP

PP

PP

PP

P

P

P

PP

11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 222

11

222 233 3 333

1

2

1

2233

4444 4

3

4

332

11

2223

1

23

2

11

23 33

4

23

4 4

3

4

3

4 4 4

/

/ /

11x 2x

10x

10x

11

3x

3x

2x

= floating selvedges = white pattern weft = violet tabby weft plain weave, tabby

Use tabby: After every pattern

pick, weave a tabby pick (usetreadle 1 after the first pattern

pick in each section and alternate

between treadles 1 and 2 for therest of the section).

"

PROJECT NOTES

These placemats are woven with a nontraditional color ar-rangement—the pattern weft is the same color as the warp; thecontrasting color is used for the tabby weft. You can choose to

follow a traditional color arrangement instead (use the samecolor for warp and tabby weft and a contrasting color for thepattern weft). The draft is based on Johann Schleelein’s No.

123, page 131, in Marguerite Porter Davison’s A Handweav-

er’s Pattern Book (see also pages 19–22 in this book).


FINISHED DIMENSIONS

Four placemats 131 ⁄ 2" wide by 171 ⁄ 2" long each, including 1 ⁄ 2"

hems.

WARP and WEFT

Warp: 22/2 cottolin (50% cotton, 50% linen) at 3,170 yd/lb, 1,130 yd white. Tabby weft and hems: 22/2 cottolin,

705 yd pink. Pattern weft: 10-ply cotton at 990 yd/lb, TahkiCotton Classic, 565 yd white.

YARN SOURCES

22/2 cottolin is available from most weaving retailers. TahkiCotton Classic is available from most knitting shops.


Matching pink sewing thread.

TOTAL WARP ENDS

323 (includes 2 floating selvedges).

WARP LENGTH

31

⁄ 2 yd (allows 6" take-up and 32" loom waste).E.P.I. 20.

WIDTH IN REED 163 ⁄ 10".

P.P.I.

20 in plain-weave areas, 30 in pattern areas(15 for tabby, 15 for pattern).

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 17% in width and 11% in length.

WEAVING

Begin and end each placemat with

13 ⁄ 4" plain weave for hems. For thebody of each placemat, follow thetreadling in the draft, using tabby:

Weave 10 repeats of the overshotstripe section, 3 repeats of the over-shot pattern, 11" of overshot stripes,3 repeats of the overshot pattern, 10

repeats of the overshot stripes.Beat firmly. The order of the tabby trea dles in the overshot

sections is important. The tabby treadle that follows the first

pattern pick must be the 1-3 tabby for the pattern to have the

correct appearance. Separate each placemat with two picksof plain weave in a colorfast contrasting color. Leave these

marker threads in until after the fabric is washed and dried.

FINISHING

Machine zigzag raw edges. Machine wash on a regularcycle with warm water and detergent. Tumble dry and steampress lightly, if desired.

ASSEMBLY

Machine stitch along both sides of contrasting-color markerthreads and then cut placemats apart, removing the markerthreads. Turn all ends under 1 ⁄ 2" twice and sew hems by hand

or machine.

TREADLING TIPS FOR OVERSHOT

Here are some tips for making the weaving process error-free!1. Write out the treadling sequence on a Post-It or strip of

paper. If the sequence is long, divide it into smaller groupsthat are easier to remember. Attach the paper to the castle ornear an end of the beater where it’s easy to see.




Originally published in Handwoven® , September/October 1992, pp. 33, 82

2. Practice the sequence. Before you weave, press the trea-dles in order and check that the right combinations of shafts

are raised (and/or lowered). If necessary, change the tie-upso that the treadles work in a sequence that is comfortablefor you.

3. Using a smooth thread that contrasts in color with thewarp, check the treadling by weaving a short sample. Checkfor any threading errors.

4. Check the sample against a drawdown of the pattern if you have made one or against a photo of the fabric if youare weaving a project from a magazine.5. Check the underside of the sample. Sometimes it is easier

to discover threading errors on the wrong side.6. Check your shuttle position at the beginning and end ofmarked treadling sequences. As you complete a sequence

each time, check to see that the shuttle is in the right place (ifthe shuttle takes an odd number of picks in the sequence, it

will take two repeats for it to return to the original position).For overshot, which requires using two shuttles, I always

follow the same shuttle order: a pattern pick from the right, atabby pick from the right using the rightmost tabby treadle,a pattern pick from the left, and finally the other tabby pick

from the left using the leftmost tabby treadle. Because thetabby shuttle always follows the pattern shuttle, the two shuttlesare on the same side of the web at the end of a pattern seg-

ment. If you find the shuttles out of position, you’ll know you’veskipped a pick somewhere or made some other error.7. Watch the fabric closely as you weave. I like to watch thepattern develop along a stripe or a small group of warp

threads. The sooner an error is noticed, the fewer picks you’llhave to remove to fix it.8. Talk to yourself. I often find myself chanting: “One, two

three four . . . ” as I weave. If my chant is on “three” but myfeet are on “four,” I know there’s a problem!




C A L L I O P E P U R S EM A R G A R E T S H E P P A R D W I T H J A N I C E J O N E S

PROJECT NOTES

The draft for this purse is an overshot name draft based on

the word ”Calliope,” created by Margaret Sheppard andbased on her memories of the calliope calls from riverboats

near her childhood home in West Virginia. Using this draft, Janice Jones designed and wove a small evening bag. Thepurse has a zipper closure and is trimmed with metallic yarns

twisted into a rope. A “gold” chain purchased from a hard-ware store makes a delicate handle. The purse, in glowingcolors of pearl cotton, evokes thoughts of a moonlight cruise

aboard a river boat.


FINISHED DIMENSIONS

One purse 63 ⁄ 4" wide by 51 ⁄ 2" high. (The finished fabric is 73 ⁄ 4"wide by 14" long.)

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb,

350 yd Light Rust #108 (add 190 yd each additional bag).Pattern weft: 5/2 pearl cotton at 2,100 yd/lb, 87 yd #64Violet (lavender; add 87 yd each additional bag).

YARN SOURCES

UKI pearl cottons are available from most weaving retailers.


Matching rust sewing thread; 6" rust zipper; 71 ⁄ 2" by13" pieceof coordinating lining fabric; 50" length of chain or purchased

cord for handle (or you can prepare a twisted cord).


WARP LENGTH

11 ⁄ 4 yd (allows 2" take-up and 27" loom waste). Add 1 ⁄ 2 ydlength for each additional bag.

E.P.I. 24


P.P.I. 40 (20 for pattern, 20 for tabby).



1111 1 1

L

LLL

LLLL

LL

LL

LL

LL

LLL

LLL

L

11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 222222222 2

33 33

44

2

333

44 4 4

1

33 33

4 4

/

/

/

9x

= tabby weft, cinnamon 5/2

plain weave, tabby

= pattern weft, lavender 10/2

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick,

weave a tabby pick (alternate betweentreadles 1 and 2). “L” represents

the pattern picks only.

DRAFT

WEAVING

Weave the fabric following treadling sequence (use tabby),beating firmly, for 16".

FINISHING

Machine zigzag raw edges. Wash by hand with liquid deter-

gent in warm water. Lay flat to dry. Press with a warm iron.

ASSEMBLY

Machine stitch two rows across the middle of the fabric lengthand cut between stitching lines to make two pieces, each thewidth of the warp by 7". With right sides together, sew

the sides with 1 ⁄ 2" seam allowance. Turn right side out. Foldtop edges to the inside. Open the zipper and pin zipper tapealong the folded raw edge inside the purse, with the zipper

teeth facing the top fold. Close the zipper to be sure it worksand lines up correctly. With the zipper open, stitch it in placethrough all layers 1 ⁄ 4" from the zipper teeth, starting at the

closed end, folding down the excess zipper tape at the open

end, and continuing back to the closed end. Turn right sideout and check. Turn inside out again and sew bottom seam.Turn right side out.

Cut two pieces of lining fabric 71 ⁄ 2" by 61 ⁄ 2" each. Sew sidesand bottom, right sides together, with 1 ⁄ 2" seams. Fold down 1"to the wrong side at the top edge and press. Insert lining into

purse (wrong sides to wrong sides), match seams, and sewlining in place by hand just under the zipper stitching.



© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m 7

T E A C O Z Y W I T H P L A C E M A T SB E P K A M P H U I S

P.P.I. 30 in plain-weave areas, 52 in pattern areas (26 for

tabby, 26 for pattern).

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE13% in width and 10% in length.

WEAVINGFor each placemat: Weave 31 ⁄ 2" plain weave with cotton

weft, leaving a long tail of weft for hemstitching. Hemstitchover the last 4 picks, including 4 ends in each stitch. Lay alength of smooth cord into the next shed, leaving tails at both

sides. Weave 4 picks of plain weave and hemstitch overthese picks as before. Weave 4 picks plain weave and thenweave pattern following the draft on page 9. Finish with

plain weave and hemstitching as at the beginning, but inreverse. Repeat for four placemats, separating them with 1or 2 picks of a contrasting color.

The front and back of the tea cozy are woven as one long

piece (about 29" long after washing). It is turned sideways(the pattern weft runs vertically), folded, and boxed with theliner cuff stitched to the selvedge on one side. To weave

the fabric for the cozy: *Weave the table (i in the draft) andthen the bowknot (h); repeat from * three times; end with afifth table. Weave an additional 16–18" of plain weave for

the liner cuff (or you can use commercial fabric for this).

FINISHINGRemove the fabric from the loom and machine zigzag rawedges. Machine wash, dry, and press while still damp.Machine zigzag on both sides of the separating marker

threads, cut pieces apart, and trim ends close to stitching.For the placemats, remove the smooth cords between therows of hemstitching. Fold the edges under 1 ⁄ 2" and bring

the fold up to meet the lower row of hemstitching. Sew thehem in place with matching cotton thread, overcasting to

the hemstitched row or blind stitching. Repeat for both endsof all four placemats.

TEA COZY SEWING AND ASSEMBLY For the tea cozy, use the assembly diagram, page 9, andfollow these steps (study the diagram and your fabricand adjust for cuff size as necessary):

1. Overlap the 8" by 12" cuff pieces with the selvedge ofthe right side of the patterned fabric face up and stitch.

2. Fold fabric in half (right sides together), matching

cuff pieces across center at EF in the layout diagram. Seam

PROJECT NOTESThese placemats and tea cozy are woven with a linen pattern

weft and an all-cotton ground cloth. (In traditional overshot,

the pattern weft is usually wool. For kitchen fabrics, linen ismore practical.) If you‘d prefer to use all linen, you can sub-stitute either 40/2 or 20/1 linen for the warp and tabby

weft. If you do, be sure to beam the warp under firm andeven tension. A flexible 3 ⁄ 4" thick foam plastic insulates thiscozy—polyester fiberfill, cotton batting, or carded wool will

also work (although the resulting cozy will not be quite as firmand free-standing). The woven part of the tea cozy is easilyremoved for laundering. The overshot draft is an adaptationof one that is sometimes called Double Bowknot.

FABRIC DESCRIPTIONOvershot.

FINISHED DIMENSIONSOne tea cozy 91 ⁄ 2" high by 12" wide by 2" thick, includingan 8" cuff turned to the inside as lining; four placemats, each

121 ⁄ 12" wide by 163 ⁄ 4" long including hemstitched openworkand a 11 ⁄ 4" hem on each end.

WARP and WEFTWarp and tabby weft: 20/2 cotton at 8,400 yd/lb, 3,879

yd natural. Pattern weft: 16/2 linen at 2,580 yd/lb,1,060 yd golden yellow. (Amounts include enough to weave the cufflining of the tea cozy instead of using commercial fabric.)

YARN SOURCES20/2 cotton (pearl or unmercerized) is available from mostweaving retailers. 16/2 linen is available from the Lone StarLoom Room.

NOTIONS and OTHER MATERIALSMatching off-white sewing thread; a few yards of smoothcord (to hold space for hemstitched openwork); one piece of

3 ⁄ 4" foam rubber 111 ⁄ 2" by 19"; two pieces of cotton fabric atleast 121 ⁄ 2" by 20" to cover the foam; optional two pieces of

fabric 8" by 12" for inner cuff if you don’t weave it; Velcro forattaching cozy cover to padding (optional).

TOTAL WARP ENDS 431 (includes 2 floating selvedges).

WARP LENGTH5 yd (allows 7" take-up and 31" loom waste).

E.P.I. 30. WIDTH IN REED 141 ⁄ 2".



© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m 8Originally published in Handwoven® , March/April 1989, pp. 46, 80–82

cuff and patterned fabric together at ABC, matching patterncarefully and sewing across centers of tables, tapering to cuff.

(Notice that cuff is narrower than the outer cover so that it canbe folded inside the padded liner snugly.)

3. Sew other edge of cuff and angle DE.4. Box top corners F and CC.

5. Turn and hem ends of cuff AD and DA. Turn entire pieceright side out.

6. Make fabric loop and stitch to center of top for lifter.

7. Insert the covered padded liner (with the open end

down) and tuck cuff up inside as far as it will go.Make the padded insides of the cozy by encasing the piece

of foam rubber (or batt or stuffing) with a fitted cover of com-mercial fabric. Fold this covered pad in half (bringing the shortends together) and slip-stitch the side edges together, leavingthe end open. Fit the woven cozy over the padded liner and

turn the cuff of the cover to the inside. (The ends of the cuff canbe anchored to each other, or the liner can be anchored to thecozy at the top of the inside by a strip of Velcro.)

Get ready to serve tea!



© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m 9

1 1

1 2 3 4 5 6

22

1

2

3

2

33

4

1

2

3

44

111

22

11

2 2

33

4444

11

4

33 3

2

3

222 2

33

1

2

111

44

3

22

3

444

33

2

3 3

44

1

4

/

/

2x2x2x

2x

3x

3x

3x3x

3x 3x

4x4x

4x 4xcont’d.

In the threading, a–b is the border b–c is the bowknot

c–d is the table

d–e is the second bowknot e–f is the second border

plain weave, tabby

border

bowknot

border

table

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick,weave a tabby pick, alternating treadles

1 and 2. Numbers in the treadling

indicate the number of times to useeach pattern treadle.

a b

c

d

e

4x

4x

1

23

44

111

22

11

2 233

4444

11

433 3

23

222 233

1

2

111

443

223

44433

23

2x2x 3x3x3x 4x4x

1

23

4 4

1 1 1

2 2

1 1

223 3

4 4 4 4

1 1

43 33

23

2 2 223 3

1

2

1 1 1

4 43

2 23

4 4

3 32

3

2x8x

1

22

4

1111

444

←

2x 2x 3x3x 3x4x 4xcont’d.

floating selvedges

1

23

4

1

23

4 4

1 1 1

2 2

1 1

223 3

4 4 4 4

1 1

43 33

23

2 2 223 3

1

2

1 1 1

4 43

2 23

4 4

3 32

3

2x←

cont’d.←

11

1

1

2xg

h

11

11

2x

2

23

44

45

55

44

33

22

11

18

1

11

11

11

12

23

34

45

55

44

33

22

12x

2x

2x

11

1

1

2x

4

44

i

j

8x

To weave the placemats: Weave 31 ⁄ 2" plain weave, hemstitch,insert a heavy cord, weave 4 picksplain weave, hemstitch, weave 4 picksplain weave. Weave border section g,bowknot section h, table section i,bowknot section h, border section j .Repeat plain weave and hemstitching

in reverse.

To weave the tea cozy fabric: Weave table section i, bowknot sectionh; repeat both three times, end withtable section i.

To sew the tea cozy:Sew 8" by 12" cuff pieces to selvedge. Fold fab-

ric in half (right sides together) at EF. Seam cuffand patterned fabric together at ABC, matchingpattern carefully and sewing across centers oftables. Sew other edge of cuff and angle DE. Boxtop comers F and CC. Turn and hem ends of cuff

AD and DA. Turn entire piece right side out. Makeloop of fabric and stitch to center of top for li fter.Insert covered padded liner (open end down) andtuck cuff up inside as far as it will go.

ASSEMBLING THE COZY

DRAFT

A

D

12"

8"

8"

Cuff

D

A

12" Cuff

B C

C

Front

Back

B

FE

BoxedCorner

FoldedSide

Seam

BoxedCorner

SeamedSide

Taper

Seam

Stitch

BoxedCorner



© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All r ights reserved. h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m 1 0

P I N E B L O O M C O V E R L E T K A T H R Y N W E R T E N B E R G E R

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 13% in width, 10% in length.

WEAVING

Wind the warp and thread the loom for the side panels first.

Weave 2" plain weave for hem using 8/2 Cassis as weft.Then weave pattern with the 8/3 Mulberry pattern weft fol-lowing the treadling in the draft and using tabby

(before each pattern pick, weave a tabby pick with Cassis,alternating between treadles 1 and 2). End with 2" plainweave for second hem. Weave the second panel the same

way as the first (you will rotate this panel 90 degrees andplace it on the opposite side of the center panel as the firstside panel). To keep the panels the same length and makesure that all motifs are the same size, cut a strip of adding-

machine tape about 11 ft long. Pin this tape along the webas you weave and mark the pattern-block changes (don’tallow the tape to roll onto the cloth beam). Make the marks

while the warp is under regular weaving tension (never markthis tape when tension has been released). When you startthe second panel, reverse the tape so the motifs will match

when the second panel is rotated. Remove the two panelsfrom the loom.

Wind the warp and thread the loom for the center panel.Begin and end with 2" plain weave for hems and follow the

treadling for the center panel in the same ways as you did for

the side panels. Again, pin and use the tape to be sure themotifs match. (Pin the tape to the center panel in the same

direction as for the first side panel. You‘ll then match the cen-ter panel to the first side panel and rotate the second sidepanel. Luckily, wool is very forgiving, so slight discrepancieswon’t matter as long as your panels are all close to the same

lengths.) Remove the center panel from the loom.

FINISHING

Machine zigzag raw edges. Machine wash the panels sepa-

rately, cool water, with small amount of liquid detergent. Agi-tate on a gentle cycle for only 1 minute. Rinse. Fill and rinseagain (without agitation) adding fabric softener. Spin only untilall the water is removed. Hang or lay flat to dry. Press.

ASSEMBLY

Using the warp yarn, abut the selvedges and stitch panels to-gether with a figure-eight stitch, catching loops from the tabbyweft and matching motifs. Trim and fold the ends up twice for anarrow hem so that the first fold is at the start of the pattern areas

and sew hems by hand with tabby-weft yarn. Steam press.

PROJECT NOTES

Many weavers dream of weaving a coverlet but dismiss it as

too hard and taking too long. But just consider the amount of

time that goes into weaving and finishing a set of eight place-mats! A coverlet will take less than three times as long toweave, and the satisfaction that comes from creating some-

thing so large and so beautiful is worth the time invested.The yarns used for this coverlet are no longer available.

Substitutions are suggested, and the draft and instructions have

been adjusted to make them easier to use than in the originalarticle. The instructions provide for winding and threading twocompletely different warps for the central and side panels.Planning the border designs for the side panels and the joining

of side and center-panel designs is easier this way, and both

warps contain a reasonably small number of threads.


FINISHED DIMENSIONS Two side panels 271 ⁄ 2" by 113"each and one center panel 35" by 113" to make a coverlet

90" by113" (to fit a double bed).

WARP and WEFT

Warp: 8/2 worsted wool (2,240 yd/lb), 1,409 yd Cin-nabar, 1,268 yd Sable, 2,044 yd Bittersweet, and 938 yd

Real Red. Tabby weft: 8/2 worsted wool (2,240 yd/lb)4,544 yd Cassis. Pattern weft: 8/3 Maine Line wool (1,490

yd/lb) 4,395 yd Mulberry.

YARN SOURCES

JaggerSpun Maine Line 8/2 and 8/3 worsted wools areavailable from most weaving retailers.

TOTAL WARP ENDS 378 ends for side panels, 470 ends for center panel

(includes 2 floating selvedges in each warp).

WARP LENGTH

Side panels: 83 ⁄ 4 yd (allows 20" for take-up and 53" for loomwaste and sampling). Center panel: 5 yd (allows 10" take-upand 49" for loom waste and sampling).

E.P.I. 12.

WIDTH IN REED 311 ⁄ 2" for side panels, 391 ⁄ 6" for centerpanel.

P.P.I. 12 in plain-weave areas; 24 in pattern areas (12 fortabby, 12 for pattern).




C

CCC C

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

R

R

R

1

1 2 3 4 5 6

11

S

SS

SS

SS

SS

S2

3233

4 4

2

4

/ / /

6

5

5

5

6

5

5

5

5

6

5

5

6

5

5

5

5

5

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

10

10

5

10

10

10

5

5

5

5

5

5

10

10

10

5

10

3x

4x

3x

←cont'd

= Cinnabar = Sable = Bittersweet = Real Red = tabby weft = floating selvedges

2x5x5x5x5x

98

110136124

shaft 1

shaft 2shaft 3shaft 4

2x

B

B

B

B

B

B

R

R

2x5x2x

B

B

B

B

B

B

R

R

2x5x5x 2x2x 3x

CC

SS

SS

SS

2x

SS

S

5x 2x 3x

CC

B

B

4x 3x

CC

B

B

4x 4x

CC

C CB

BB

BB

B

R

RS

SS

SS

SS

SS

3x3x5x5x5x2x

BB

BB

BB

R

R

2x5x2x

BB

BB

BB

R

R

2x5x5x 2x2x 3x

C

CS

SS

SS

S

2x

SS

S

5x 2x 3x

C

C

5x

6

6

8

8

8

2x

6

6

88

8

2x

6

6

6

5

5

6

8

8

8

2x

6

6

8

8

8

2x

plain weave, tabby

Heddle count

11

11

11

11

11

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternating between treadles 1 and 2).

Numbers in the treadling indicate the number of times to use each pattern pick, alternating with tabby.Adjust this number, if necessary, to square the blocks.

CC

C C

C

C

B

B

B

B

R

R

1 11

1 2 3 4 5 6

S

S

S

B

B

B S

S 2

3

2

33

4 4

2

4

/

/

←cont'd

3x

2x

3x5x4x4x6x 5x5x

S

S

SB

B

B

R

R

2x5x2x

B

B

B

B

B

B

R

R

2x5x

B

B

B

2x5x 2x2x3x

C

C

S

S

S

S

S

S

2x

S

S

S

5x 2x 3x

C

C

B

B

4 x 3x

C

C

4x

C

C

B

B

B

B

B

B

R

R

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

5x5x5x2x

BB

BB

B

R

R

2x5x5x

C

BB

C

4x5x 2x2x 3x

CC

BB

S

S

6x4x 3x

plain weave, tabby

6

5

5

5

6

5

5

5

5

6

5

5

6

5

5

5

5

5

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

10

10

5

10

10

10

5

5

5

5

5

5

10

10

10

5

10

4x

3x

6

6

8

8

8

2x

6

6

8

8

8

2x

6

6

6

5

5

6

8

8

8

2x

6

6

8

8

8

2x

11

11

11

11

11

77

89

111

376

99

shaft 1

shaft 2

shaft 3

shaft 4

Heddle count

3x

698

1245

5

148

11

100

470

10

55

1010

111111

115

666

8

8

855

5

10

11

1111

655

5 5 11

11

10 Real Red (R)Bittersweet (B)Sable (S)Cinnabar (C)

3x

65

10

55 5

2x

3x

5

105

7412149 8

50

378

105

10

555

6

510

101112 55

5

66

111111

111010

5558

8 66 8 11

10

Real Red (R)Bittersweet (B)Sable (S)Cinnabar (C)

3x

8

8

2x

DRAFT FOR

CENTER

PANEL

DRAFT FOR SIDE PANELS

WARP COLOR ORDER FOR CENTER PANEL

WARP COLOR ORDER FOR SIDE PANELS




Originally published in Handwoven® , Fall/Winter 1980, pp. 47, 70–71




O V E R S H O T R U N N E R W I T H B O R D E RG E N E E . V A L K

1 1 11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

3

3

1

3

3

3

3

1

3

3

2

2 22

3 3 3 3

4

11

2

111

2

3

22

3

1

2

3 3

2

1

2

3

44444

3

11

44

11

2

11

44

4 4 44

/

/

2x

9x2x

r e p e a t

2x

34

34

322

32

3 33 3444

34

34

cont’d.

plain weave, tabbyfloating selvedges

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick,

weave a tabby pick (alternate between

treadles 1 and 2). Numbers in the

treadling sequence indicate the numberof times to use each pattern treadle,

alternating with tabby.

←

cont’d.←

3

4

1 1 12

12

32

3

122

332

12

3

4 4 44 4 4

3

2x2x 2x

2

2

2

2

22

22

22

2

2

2x

2x

109

116

7264

361

Heddle count

shaft 1shaft 2

shaft 3shaft 4

PROJECT NOTES

Too often, one sees examples of poorly designed

pattern weaving. Part of the total “picture” of a

pattern-woven placemat, dresser scarf, rug, orafghan is the use of a suitable frame or border. Even

if a border is not desired, the repeats should beplanned so that the viewer’s eye is not carried off ata tangent but continues around and back to the mainpattern. I always encourage my students to center

their patterns and design appropriate borders, evenfor samples. Someday they might want to frame asampler or combine several as a wall hanging. Here

are some handy tips for arranging suitable borders:1. Use one or two twill repeats for borders with very small

repeat ing pat terns. Sometimes revers ing the twi l lcreates added interest. Another option is to thread point twills

to get diamond border motifs.2. Repeat a small portion of the pattern. Find the turning

block and repeat from that block to the next turning block.

3. Use a compatible table, circle, or star motif and draftit as the border; it becomes a corner unit that weaves as aborder when the central units are woven.

4. Decrease the size of pattern blocks, in proportion, togain extra ends needed for the desired number of pattern

repeats or to gain enough ends for a border.FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot.

FINISHED DIMENSIONS 155 ⁄ 8" wide by

48" long.

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 22/2 cottolin (50% linen, 50% cotton)

at 3,170 yd/lb, 1,400 yd dark brown. Pattern weft: Linnay(50% linen, 50% rayon, 1,200 yd/lb) from Scott’s WoolenMill was used for this project and is no longer available.

Substitute 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb), Light Rust #108,

or Berroco’s NaturLin (55% rayon/45% linen, 1,052 yd/lb,115 yd/50 g ball), Cinnamon, 422 yd.

YARN SOURCES

Cottolin and 3/2 pearl cotton by UKI are available from mostweaving retailers. Berroco’s NaturLin is available from most

knitting shops (for a store near you, see www.berroco.com).

E.P.I. 20.


TOTAL WARP ENDS 363 (includes 2 floating

selvedges).

WARP LENGTH

21 ⁄ 2 yd (allows 3" for take-up and 33" forloom waste).

P.P.I. 20 in plain-weave areas, 30 in pattern

areas (15 for tabby weft and 15 for pattern weft).



WARPING AND WEAVING

This draft is adapted from Marguerite Porter Davison’s A

Handweaver’s Pattern Book , Snowballs, page 181. The trea-dling sequence gives the pattern picks only. Before every pat-tern pick, weave a tabby pick, alternating between treadles

1 and 2. Weave 3" of plain weave and then follow the trea-dling sequence. The border (the section before the repeat)measures about 22 ⁄ 3"; each repeat is about 11 ⁄ 4". Weave therepeat until the pattern part of the runner measures about 48",

then follow the rest of the treadling sequence and end with 3"of plain weave for the second hem.

FINISHING

Remove the fabric from the loom. Machine zigzag edges to

prevent raveling. Machine wash on a gentle cycle using luke-warm water and a liquid detergent. Line dry. Steam pressusing press cloth. Turn ends under twice and sew hems by

hand. Steam press again.

DRAFT




Originally published in Handwoven® , September/October 1983, Cover, pp. 83, 109




C O U N T R Y O V E R S H O T T A B L E M A T J A N I C E J O N E S

111

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 223 33

3

3

3

3

3

3

3

3

3

3

6

6

6

193

312

95190

521

224

19193

191010

2828

6

7

7

7

7

7

7

4 4 4

/

/

4x

4x

4x

4x

= blue 16/2 cotton

blue

= tan 16/2 cotton

tan

= unbleached 16/2 cotton

unbleached

= brown 16/2 cotton

brown

plain weave, tabbyTabbycolors:

brown

brown

tan

tan

blue

unbleached

3

3

3

6

6

7

7

brown

brown

unbleached

unbleached

unbleached

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick

(alternating between treadles 1 and 2).

cont’d.←

cont’d.←

DRAFT

WARP COLOR ORDER

WARP LENGTH

11 ⁄ 2 yd (allows 2" for take-up and 32" for loom waste).

E.P.I. 30.


P.P.I. 42 (21 for tabby, 21 for pattern).


10% in width and length.

WEAVING

Weave 1 ⁄ 2" at the beginning and end of the mat with brown16/2 for hems. Then follow the treadling sequence in thedraft using the colors indicated for the tabby weft and 10/2

Flaxon for the pattern weft. Weave a tabby pick before everypattern pick.

FINISHING

Machine zigzag raw edges. Wash the mat by hand in warmwater with a mild detergent. When it is almost dry, press the

wrong side with a hot iron. Turn under plain-weave raw edgesand then turn under all four edges along the unbleachedstripe in the first brown section. Miter the corners and sew

hems by hand.

PROJECT NOTES

Elegant and graceful, this table mat will bring lasting pleasureto all who see it. You’ll find the pattern-on-pattern effect ofovershot on a plaid background always interesting and ap-

pealing to look at. Consider using the draft and color orderwith color choices of your own. In this piece, the pattern weftis a single color throughout. Color changes occur in the warp

and in the tabby weft, creating the plaid background for theovershot patterning.


FINISHED DIMENSIONS 151 ⁄ 2" square with hems on all foursides.

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 16/2 unmercerized cotton at 6,300

yd/lb, 181 yd unbleached, 430 yd tan, 395 yd brown,and 25 yd blue. Pattern weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200

yd/lb, Flaxon #91 (cream), 300 yd.

YARN SOURCES

16/2 unmercerized cotton is available from Glimåkra USAand Lone Star Loom Room. 10/2 UKI pearl cotton is avail-able from most weaving retailers.


Cream sewing thread.





Originally published in Handwoven® , September/October 1985, pp. 48–51, instruction supplement: 7–8




I N L A I D O V E R S H O T P L A C E M A T SAV I S P E R R Y

ten-thread warp group threaded on shafts 1 and 4. Using abutterfly of embroidery floss for each area, inlay the patternweft in the first, third, and fifth pattern areas, tucking the tailsback into the row. Weave a pick of tabby. Treadle the sec-

ond pattern pick and continue the inlay in this manner, follow-ing each pattern inlay row with a pick of tabby. When the

first three inlaid squares have been completed, weave 1"plain weave. Inlay the next set of squares in the second andfourth pattern areas; follow with 1" plain weave. Continue,alternating the inlaid areas in checkerboard fashion with 1"plain weave between sets of squares, ending with the first,

third, and fifth areas (there will be five rows of inlay designs).Weave 11 ⁄ 2" plain weave, hemstitch, and leave 3" unwovenfor fringes between placemats. Repeat for each of four total

placemats. (Another option is to plan hems for the placematssince repeated washings can fray cotton fringes. Add 11 ⁄ 2"plain weave to each end of each mat. To reduce hem bulk,

you can weave 1" of this section with sewing thread weft.)

FINISHING

Remove the placemats from the loom and cut apart in themiddle of the unwoven fringes between mats. Machine washon gentle cycle; line dry. Steam press face down.

PROJECT NOTES

For these placemats, I started by designing an original 4-block

profile draft. I then miniaturized it and interpreted it in a4-block overshot threading. Since I wanted the inlay motifsusing this design to alternate in my final piece, I first draftedeach motif on a separate set of four shafts and used two moreshafts (for a total of ten) to thread plain weave between mo-

tifs. In this four-shaft version, the 4-shaft design is repeatedacross the entire warp and the inlay weft simply placed wherethe motifs are desired.

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Plain weave and overshot.

FINISHED DIMENSIONSFour placemats—each 13" wideby 16" long with 11 ⁄ 2" fringe on each end.

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 16/2 unmercerized cotton at 6,350 yd/lb: 2,370 yd tan. Pattern weft: 6-strand cotton embroi-

dery floss at 2,080 yd/lb: 208 yd off-white.

YARN SOURCES

16/2 cotton by Borgs (#0216) is available from GlimåkraUSA. Embroidery floss is available from craft, sewing, weav-

ing, and knitting stores.


WARP LENGTH

31 ⁄ 4 yd (includes 4" take-up and 29" loom waste).

E.P.I. 30.

WIDTH IN REED 14".

P.P.I. 30.

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 7% in width and 10% in length.

WEAVING

Allowing 11 ⁄ 2" unwoven for fringe, weave 11 ⁄ 2" plain weave

and hemstitch over the first 4 picks, including 4 ends in eachstitch. To weave the inlay, treadle the first pattern pick (treadle6) and find the five inlay pattern areas, each bordered by a

11 1 1

1

1

1

1

11

2

2

2

2

2

1

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 222

1

222 23333 3 3

3

3

33444444 44

3332

1

4

1

34

4

4

4

4

4

/

/

3x

2x

5x7x 13x5x

Numbers in the treadling

indicate number of inlayweft rows in each set of inlay

designs. Before every inlay

weft row, weave a tabby pick.

plain weave, tabby

DRAFT




Originally published in Handwoven® , January/February 1995, pp. 60, 88




O V E R S H O T P I N C U S H I O N SS U E B E E V E R S

PROJECT NOTES

These pincushions are an ideal way to begin your exploration

of overshot if you’ve never tried it before. Two different trea-

dlings are used with a single threading for the pincushions.After you’ve used both of the treadlings, you’ll be ready to cre-ate your own. Crocheted edging, tassels, and twisted cord

made from thrums and leftover bobbin wefts finish the pincush-ions with panache. (The blue pincushion has a twisted cordmade from thrums and leftover bobbin weft sewn to the edge

and tied in fringed knots at each corner; the pink pincushionsfeature a crocheted finish for a lacier look. The designs arevariations of Johann Schleelein’s draft no. 123, page 131,from A Handweaver’s Pattern Book by Marguerite Porter

Davison (see also pages 3–4 and 21–22 in this book).


FINISHED DIMENSIONS

Ten pincushions, each 4" wide by 3" long.

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb,

712 yd white. (A very fine gold metallic that is no longeravailable was used for alternate tabby picks in the blue pin-cushion.) Pattern weft: 8/2 wool at 2,240 yd/lb:120 yd

French Blue (blue), 90 yd Rose (light pink), and 80 yd Rasp-berry (dark pink) for pattern weft. Amounts are enough for fiveblue pincushions and five pink pincushions.

YARN SOURCES

10/2 pearl cotton and 8/2 Maine Line wool by JaggerSpunare available from most weaving retailers.


Matching sewing thread; size 0 crochet hook.


WARP LENGTH21 ⁄ 4 yd (allows 4" take-up and 27" loom waste).

E.P.I. 24.


P.P.I. Blue pincushions: 40 (20 for tabby, 20 for pattern).Pink pincushions: 39 (13 for tabby, 26 for pattern).


10% in width and length.

11 1

B

BB

BB

BBB

B

BBBB

BBBB

BB

BB

B

D

LD

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

D

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

BB

BB

B

B

11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 222

11

222 2

333 3 3334444 4

34

33

2

11

22

334

34 4 4

/ /

8x

= blue pattern weft

D= dark pink pattern weftL = light pink pattern weft

plain weave, tabby

For the blue pincushions,

use tabby: Before every

pattern pick, weave a tabbypick (alternate between

treadles 1 and 2). B represents

the pattern picks only.

For the pink pincushions:Weave 1 tabby pick after

every 2 (DL) pattern picks

(i.e., weave dark pink,light pink, tabby).

b l u e

pi n c u sh i on

pi nk

pi n c u sh i on

WEAVING

For the blue pincushions: Begin and end with1 ⁄ 2" plain weave using white pearl cotton.Weave three repeats of the pattern, using bluewool pattern weft alternating with cotton tabby

weft. Repeat for five pincushions. For the pinkpincushions: Begin and end with 1 ⁄ 2" plainweave using white pearl cotton. Weave three

repeats of the pattern, following each pair ofdark pink (D) and light pink (L) pattern pickswith 1 pick of cotton tabby weft. Repeat for fivepincushions.

FINISHING

Remove the fabric from the loom. Wash by handin warm water; lay flat to dry. Steam press.

ASSEMBLY

Cut pincushions apart. With right sides together,

fold each cushion in half, joining the selvedgesand being careful to center the pattern. Sewaround the edges, leaving an opening for turn-

ing and stuffing; turn right side out. Stuff withthrums; sew the opening shut by hand. For eachblue pincushion: make a twisted cord with 6strands (3 blue, 3 white). Tie overhand knots at

each corner and trim resulting tassels to I". Sewedging to the pincushion. For each pink pin-cushion: uwsing light pink wool and a crochet

hook, make a chain long enough to go aroundthe cushion. Row 2: Chain 5 and join to thethird loop of the first row. Repeat to the end.

Sew the edging to the pincushion, tucking theends inside the cushion.

DRAFT




Originally published in Handwoven® , September/October 1991, pp. 79, 96–97




B O R D E R E D O V E R S H O T R U N N E RS U E B E E V E R S

WEAVING

For the runner: Weave 21 ⁄ 2" plain weave, border pattern, 1"

plain weave. Work a row of Brooks’ bouquet and end theborder with 1 ⁄ 2" plain weave. Weave 20" following the pat-tern repeat. End the runner with the border and Brooks’ bou-

quet, but in reverse. (Work the Brooks’ bouquet on an openplain-weave shed, not on a closed shed as shown in the dia-gram.) Add 123 ⁄ 4" woven length of the pattern repeat for eachdesired additional 12" finished runner length.

FINISHING

Machine zigzag each end of the runner to secure raw edges.Machine wash in warm water with mild detergent. Lay flat todry and steam press lightly.

ASSEMBLY

Turn under the raw edges and fold up to just below theBrooks’ bouquet and sew hems by hand with the warp yam.Blindstitch to close hem openings along the selvedges.

PROJECT NOTES

Soft pink overshot patterning gives a dainty look to

this runner with its wide hem bands. Contrasting aheavily patterned area with a wide plain bordercan be an effective design finish. In this runner, arow of Brooks’ bouquet just before the hem adds tothe delicate feeling. The small wheel pattern is Johann

Schleelein’s draft #123, page 131, from MargueritePorter Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book (see alsopages 3–4 and 19–20 in this book).


FINISHED DIMENSIONS

14" wide by 22" long, including a 13 ⁄ 4" hem on eachend. This is a small runner, table-mat size. For each ad-ditional 12" of runner length, add 14" to warp length.

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb, 1,000 yd cream or natural. Pattern weft: 8/2 woolat 2,240 yd/lb: 200 yd pink. Accent weft: 3/2 pearl

cotton at 1,260 yd/lb, 2 yd rose. For each additional12" of woven runner, add 290 yd for warp/tabby weft

and 130 yd for pattern weft. YARN SOURCES

10/2, pearl cotton, 3/2 pearl cotton, and 8/2 MaineLine wool by JaggerSpun are available from mostweaving retailers.


WARP LENGTH

13 ⁄ 4 yd (allows 4" take-up and 29" loom waste).

E.P.I. 24.


P.P.L 24 in plain-weave areas, 40 in pattern areas(20 for tabby, 20 for pattern).



1 1 11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 22 2

33 3 3

4

R

R

P

P

PP

PP

PPP

P

PPPP

PPP

P

PP

PP

P

P

4

1122

1112

33

22

3

44 4

3

4

333

211

22

4

3

2

3

4 4 4

/

/

/

/

/

/

/

/

/

/

14x

b or d er

R = rose 3/2 cotton

P = pink 8/2 wool

= natural 10/2 cotton

plain weave,tabby

p

a t t er n r e p e a t ; u s e

t a b b y

This section shows onlythe pattern picks.

Use tabby:

Before every pattern pick,weave a tabby pick

(alternate betweentreadles 1 and 2).

This treadling section

shows all picks, tabbyand pattern.

DRAFT

BROOKS’ BOUQUET




Originally published in Handwoven® , May/June 1991, pp. 73, 86




W E D D I N G - P R E S E N T P I L L O W SN A N C Y A R T H U R H O S K I N S

DRAFT

11 1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

4

4

4

4

4

44

4

4

4

4

4

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

4

4

4

44

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

222

1111

2 2

33

2222

3 3 3 3

444

3

4

333 3

444

3

4

3

2

1

222 22

333

2

3

2222

3

44

1111

444

3

44

1

4

1

4

1111 1 1 1

44

33

4

1 1

2 2

1 1 1 1

2

3 3

2 2 2 2

3

4 4

3

4

3 3 33

4 4 4

3

4

3

21

2 2 22 2

3 3 3

2

3

2 2 2 2

3

4 4

1 1 1 1

4 4 4

3

4 4

1

4

1

4

1 1 1 111

4 4

3 3

4

4 4

/ /

4x5x5x2x2x

4x

4x

4x

4x

cont’d.

floating selvedges

4x 5x 5x 2x 2x ←

plain weave, tabby

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 15% in widthand length.

WEAVINGBegin and end each pillow face with about

1" of off-white silk plain weave for seam al-lowance. Hemstitch the beginning and end ofeach pillow face, if desired. Then weave one

repeat of the pattern using the blue wool aspattern weft and the natural silk as tabby weft(the pattern section will be about 19" long

under tension). Use spacers, contrasting mark-er threads, or extra plain weave to separateeach pillow face from the next. I wove thetwo overshot pillow faces first, measured each

of them (including plain-weave seam allow-ances), and wove matching lengths of naturalsilk plain weave for the backs.

ASSEMBLY If you did not hemstitch the ends of each sec-tion, machine zigzag the raw edges of the two

pillow faces and the two pillow backs. Cut thepieces apart. For each pillow, place a faceand a back together, right sides together, align-ing the edges. Stitch three of the four edgesand turn right side out. (A narrow twill is thread-

ed on both sides of the overshot design to actas seam allowance.) Embroider the pillowbacks with monogram, initials, or date, as de-

sired. Insert the pillow form into each pillowcover and blindstitch the fourth edge shut, turn-ing seam allowances to the inside.

PROJECT NOTESThis pair of pillows was woven as a very special weddingpresent to be used as kneeling cushions during the ceremonyand decorative pillows afterwards. The large overshot design

(a modification of one from Marguerite Porter Davison’s A

Handweaver’s Pattern Book ) is selected for its combination ofa single floral ring and the cruciform motifs in the tables,symbolizing the wedding theme and complementing the

bride’s traditional tastes. The pillow backs are plain weave,woven on the same warp. A silk warp and tabby weft witha wool pattern weft give the pillows an heirloom quality.

FABRIC DESCRIPTIONOvershot and plain weave.

FINISHED DIMENSIONSTwo pillows, each 151 ⁄ 2" square and 4" thick.

WARP and WEFTWarp and tabby weft: 8/2 medium spun silk at 1,980 yd/

lb, 1,678 yd natural. Pattern weft: 8/3 wool at 1,490 yd/lb, 263 yd French Blue.

YARN SOURCES8/2 medium spun silk is available from The Silk Tree. 8/3

Maine Line wool by JaggerSpun is available from most weav-ing retailers.

NOTIONS and OTHER SUPPLIESMatching off-white sewing thread; two 16" square pillowforms.

TOTAL WARP ENDS 303 (includes 2 floating selvedges).

WARP LENGTH31 ⁄ 4 yd (allows 5" take-up and 28" loom waste).


P.P.I. 16 in the plain-weave areas, 24 in pattern areas(12 for tabby, 12 for pattern).

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave atabby pick alternating treadles 1 and 2. Numbersin the treadling indicate the number of times to

weave each pattern pick.




N A M E - D R A F T O V E R S H O T S C A R FG I S E L A E V I T T

111 1

PP

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

11

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 2222222

11111

2

1

2

1

22 2

1

2

11

23333

2233

2

1

3 33444

1

4

1

4

1

4

1

4

1

4

1

4

1

2

11

22

11 1

444

1

4

11

4 4

33

4

32

1

23

4 4 4 4

/

/

6x

plain weave, tabby

= pattern weft

r e p e a t

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick(alternating between treadles 1 and 2).

67

4070

100

277

Heddle count

shaft 1shaft 2shaft 3shaft 4



TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 7% in width and

10% in length.

WEAVING

Allow 4" unwoven warp at each end forfringe. Using the 60/2 silk tabby weft, weave

1 ⁄ 4" plain weave; hemstitch over the first 4 picksincluding 4 ends in each stitch. Weave for67", alternating tabby and pattern following

the treadling repeat in the draft. (To imitate thespace-dyed look of this scarf, change weftcolors randomly, sometimes after a completerepeat, sometimes in the center of one.) End

with 1 ⁄ 4" plain weave in 60/2 silk and hem-stitch as at the beginning.

FINISHING

Remove the scarf from the loom. Knot a dou-bled length of 60/2 silk into each hemstitchedgroup of fringe to add to fringe bulk. Trimfringe evenly to 3". Handwash the scarf in

warm water with a mild detergent. Dry flat.

PROJECT NOTES

From among the 1,752 name drafts we developed for theregistrants of Convergence 1990 in San Jose, California, I

chose Harriett E. Ringold’s name to use as the draft for a scarffeaturing my handspun mohair as the pattern weft. This scarf,

like the runner on pages 1–2, was among several pieces wedisplayed at the conference so that participants could seehow their name drafts might be used.


FINISHED DIMENSIONS

81 ⁄ 2" wide by 60" long plus 3" fringe at each end.

WARP and WEFT

Warp: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb, 831 yd natural.Tabby weft: 60/2 Bombyx silk at 15,000 yd/lb, 555 yd

blue gray. Pattern weft: for the handspun kid mohair singlesat 2,800 yd/lb, substitute 8/2 Heather worsted wool at2,240 yd/lb in Cobalt, Boysenberry, and Amber: 520 yd

total.

YARN SOURCES

60/2 Bombyx silk is available from Treenway Silks; JaggerSpunHeather wools are available from most weaving retailers.

WARP LENGTH3 yd (allows 4" take-up and 29" loom waste).

E.P.I. 30.


DRAFT




Originally published in Handwoven® , November/December 1997, pp. 39, 79




R U N N E R F O R A N A N T I Q U E C H E S TD O N N A L E E A D A M S

R

W

R

R

R

R RR RR R RR R RR R RR

R

R

R

R

R

R

R RR R R

R

R R R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R R

R R R R

R RR RR

R

R R

R

R

R

R RR

R

R

RR

R

R

R

R

R RR RR RR

R

W

WW

WW

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

W

R

RR R RR R R

RR R

R

R

R R

R

R

R

RRR RRR R

R

R

8x

← cont'd.

← cont'd.

plain weave, tabby

= floating selvedges

= red 10/2 cotton

red 10/2 cotton

= white (ivory) 10/2 cotton

white (ivory) 10/2 cotton

b or d er

2 5 x

( p a t t er n )

1

1 2 3 4 5 6

34

2

34 4

1

2 2

3

RR

R

R

RRR

RR

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

4

4

4

7

7

5555110

257257

367

4

8

8

3

3

2

2

2

4

1

1

1

1

11

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick,weave a tabby pick (alternate between

treadles 1 and 2). Numbers in the treadling

sequence indicate the number of patternpicks to weave using that treadle

(alternating with tabby).


TAKE-UP 5% in width and 4% in length.

WEAVING

Start with 1" plain weave using the red cotton as weft. Thenweave the first border using red cotton tabby weft and Jag-

gerSpun black pattern weft. Weave the center repeat of therunner 25 times using ivory tabby weft and JaggerSpun black

pattern weft. Then weave the second border in the same wayas the first and end with another 1" of plain weave in red forthe second hem.

FINISHING

Cut the runner from the loom, trim the plain-weave hem sec-tions to 3 ⁄ 4", and machine stitch to secure raw edges. Fold

under 1 ⁄ 4" and bring the fold to the first row of the pattern fora 1 ⁄ 2" hem. Sew hems by hand. Press with a hot iron over awet pressing cloth and treat with a protective fabric spray. To

care for the finished piece, dry clean.

PROJECT NOTES

Woven to complement an Empire chest of drawers, this run-

ner features a border created by expanding the threading forthe central star motif and its neighboring joins. Choosing redfor the border warp and tabby weft threads provides even

greater contrast with ivory threads in the central field. Therunner has a traditional look that complements the antiquechest while also being unique in design.


FINISHED DIMENSIONS 141 ⁄ 2" wide by 361 ⁄ 4" long. Hems

use an additional 1" at each end.

WARP and WEFT

Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb,900 yd Flaxon #91 (ivory), 294 yd Red #12. Pattern weft:

8/2 worsted wool at 2,240 yd/lb: 428 yd black.

YARN SOURCES

10/2 pearl cotton by UKI and 8/2 worsted wool by Jag-

gerSpun are available from most weaving retailers.


Red sewing thread.

TOTAL WARP ENDS

367 (includes 2 floating selvedges).

WARP LENGTH

2 yd (allows 4" take-up and 27" loom waste).


WARP COLOR ORDER

DRAFT




Originally published in Handwoven® , January/February 1995, pp. 56, 87



T I P S F O R P L A N N I N G , H E M S T I T C H I N G , A N D F R I N G I N G

S I MP LE H E MST I T C H I NG

Weave several picks of plain weave, endingwith the shuttle on the right side if you areright-handed, left side if you are left-handed.Measure a length of weft three times thewarp width and cut, leaving the measuredlength as a tail. Thread the tail into a blunttapestry needle.

Take the needle under a selected group of ends above the fell and bringit up and back to the starting point, encircling the group. Pass the needleunder the same group of ends, bringing it out through the weaving two (ormore) weft threads below the fell. Repeat for each group of ends across thefell. Needle-weave the tail into the selvedge and trim. (See * below.)

D OUB LE ( I T A L I A N ) H E MST I T C H I NGWeave several picks plain weave, ending with the shuttle on the right sideif right-handed, left side if left-handed. Measure a length of weft four timesthe warp width and cut, leaving the measured length as a tail. Thread thetail into a blunt tapestry needle.

Take the needle under a selected group of warp ends above the felland bring the needle back to encircle the ends. Next, pass the needleunder the same ends but come up two or more weft rows down from thefell. Then bring the needle back around the same group of ends belowthe fell. Then begin again, encircling the next group of ends. (See * below.)

*For both methods: To hemstitch the first end of a piece, weave a header, weave

four or five picks of plain weave (or of the basic weave structure used in the piece),and hemstitch over the top two or three weft rows. Weave the piece and thenhemstitch the other end over the last two or three weft rows. Remove the fabric fromthe loom and discard the header and weft threads below the first hemstitching.

OVERSHOT TIPS

Use tabby. Overshot fabrics con-sist of a plain-weave ground clothpatterned with a weft that is usu-ally thicker (as much as three times)than the ground-cloth yarns. When

you weave, the tabby weft alwaysalternates with the pattern weft.(This is what is meant by “Usetabby” when tabby picks are notshown in the treadling draft tosave space.) It’s a good idea toestablish a consistent shuttle order(such as always weaving a tabby

pick first, followed by a patternpick) and a shuttle position (alwaysentering the tabby shuttle from thesame side as the tabby treadle

you are using followed by the pat-tern shuttle, also from that side).

Sett considerations. To determinewarp sett for overshot, choose thesett that would produce plain weavewith the warp and tabby-weft yarn(24 ends per inch for 10/2 cotton,

for example). In theory, the tabbyweft should be 24 picks per inch fora 50/50 plain-weave cloth (asmany picks per inch as ends perinch). It is usually difficult to beat inboth pattern and tabby wefts so thiswill happen (48 total ppi). If it’s notpossible, the most common solutionis to reduce the number of picks inselected blocks without changingtheir proportion. Other options areto slightly loosen the warp sett or usea slightly finer tabby-weft yarn thanthe warp yarn.

Finishing. If the pattern weft is wool,wash the fabric in cool water withlittle or no agitation to keep shrink-age and fulling to a minimum.Check color fastness of all patternwefts. If there is any potential forbleeding roll in towels to remove

T W I ST I NG (OR P LY I NG ) T H E FR I NG E

Divide the number of threads for each fringe into two groups.

Twist each group clockwise until it kinks. Bring both groupstogether and allow them to twist around each other counter-clockwise (or twist them together in that direction). Secure theends with an overhand knot. (Use the same method to makea plied cord by attaching one end to a stationary object.)

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