THE UNPLUGGED WOODSHOP Panel Gauge 1|2
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© 2018 By The Unplugged Woodshop Design and Plans by: Justin Starr @jstarrmakes THE UNPLUGGED WOODSHOP The Panel Gauge is an Essential tool if you are working with pieces that are wider than 8”. It allows a parallel scribe line to be made on your second edge or marking a panel to final length. This is an extremely simple build and can be completed in a relaxing weekend. Step 1: Dimension the beam to 3/4” x 7/8” x 24”; the length can be shorter or longer. I have found that 24” is a good working length and can effectively scribe a line 20” from the reference edge. Step 2: Dimension the body to 1” x 3” x 9”. The final shaping will be done at the end. Step 3: Dimension the wedge to 3/8” x 1 1/16” x 3 1/4”. From the top, measure down 3/8” and draw an intersecting line from the a 3/8” cutter and plow 2 grooves side by side. Alternatively, simply use a mallet and chisel. Step 5: Next we can chop the mortise that will guide the beam. The mortise will be 3/4” x 7/8” centhred along the length of the body. I set the mortise directly on the bottom of the fence rabbet because it allows for the beam to register flat on your workpiece. When the cutter is installed it protrudes 1/8” below the beam. top right corner. Next, measure 3/8” from the flat side and 1/8” up from the bottom. Where these two lines meet, draw a connecting line to the bottom right corner. Connecting these two points should give you a 14º taper. This will match the taper we are going to mortise into the body later. Step 4: The fence is a 1/2” x 1/2” rabbet. You can use a rabbet plane to make quick work of this, or you can use a plow plane with Panel Gauge 1|2
Transcript of THE UNPLUGGED WOODSHOP Panel Gauge 1|2
© 2018 By The Unplugged Woodshop Design and Plans by: Justin Starr @jstarrmakes
THE UNPLUGGED WOODSHOP
The Panel Gauge is an Essential tool if you are
working with pieces that are wider than 8”. It allows a
parallel scribe line to be made on your second edge or marking a panel to final length. This is an extremely simple build
and can be completed in a relaxing weekend.
Step 1: Dimension the beam to 3/4” x 7/8” x 24”; the length can be shorter or longer. I have found that 24” is a good working length and can effectively scribe a line 20” from the reference edge.Step 2: Dimension the body to 1” x 3” x 9”. The final shaping will be done at the end. Step 3: Dimension the wedge to3/8” x 1 1/16” x 3 1/4”. From the top, measure down 3/8” and draw an intersecting line from the
a 3/8” cutter and plow 2 grooves side by side. Alternatively, simply use a mallet and chisel.Step 5: Next we can chop the mortise that will guide the beam. The mortise will be 3/4” x 7/8” centhred along the length of the body. I set the mortise directly on the bottom of the fence rabbet because it allows for the beam to register flat on your workpiece. When the cutter is installed it protrudes 1/8” below the beam.
top right corner. Next, measure 3/8” from the flat side and 1/8” up from the bottom. Where these two lines meet, draw a connecting line to the bottom right corner. Connecting these two points should give you a 14º taper. This will match the taper we are going to mortise into the body later.Step 4: The fence is a 1/2” x 1/2” rabbet. You can use a rabbet plane to make quick work of this, or you can use a plow plane with
Panel Gauge 1|2
© 2018 By The Unplugged Woodshop Design and Plans by: Justin Starr @jstarrmakes
THE UNPLUGGED WOODSHOP Panel Gauge 2|2
Tip: In use, the spear point cutter can easily dig into your workpiece or get pulled along the grain. I suggest using very little downward
pressure on the cutter end. Instead, use that hand to help guide the beam square to the reference edge. Multiple light passes rather than
fewer heavy passes always leads crisp knife lines.
Step 6: Once to beam mortise is chopped you can layout the tapered mortise for the wedge. On the fence side of the mortise layout a 3/4” x 3/8” mortise. On the opposite side measure over 1/2” from the beam mortise; this creates the 1/4” taper or 14º.Step 7: Drill the holes in the beam that will receive the nut and screw. On the end of the beam, drill a 1/4” hole 1 1/4” deep. On the 3/4” side drill a 3/8” hole 1 1/4” from the end of the beam.Step 8: Using a blank cutter from the Lee Valley Beading Tool, file a spear point on one end. I measured up 1/4” and drew 2 lines to the centre of the cutter. Once the V is formed, I estimated a 25º - 30º bevel and filed it with a mill file. At this point, you have a standard spear point striking knife and can hone and polish as normal.Step 9: The final step is to shape the body to fit the hand. I did a simple large French curve slope down to 1 1/2”. The top edges are rounded over with a spokeshave and a coat of Tried & True Varnish Oil finishes everything off.
