1.T R A V E L FROM THE EDITORHOME OR AWAY? Welcome to thes u m m e r- t i m eissue of TheTravel&LeisureMagazine. Traditionally, itis when we Brits make ourannual pilgrimage to soakup the sun on distantbeaches. But, according toseveral surveys, more of GETTING TO KNOW Thailand bling and buy6us are choosing to stay in the UK this year either to cut down on the expense of going abroad, or to enjoy the bar- TRAVEL UPDATE Travel news15 beque summer promised by the Met Office.Wherever you head, we hope you will take ESCAPE TO Salzburg city of music 18 this issue with you. As ever, it is packed full of ideas for holidays, both overseas and at home.ALL ABOARD Cruising from UK ports + News 23 And with an eye on the weather, we look at Londons glorious parks and see whats going on during the summer beyond the capital. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK KwaZulu-Natal 28We head to Thailand, a perennial favourite for its beaches and good-value shopping, and sing LETS TRY Escorted coach holidays34 the praises of music city Salzburg. We also go on the buses to see how coach holidays have PACK YOUR CLUBS Spains Murcia region + News 41 changed. The Channel Islands are the focus for our look at holidays on your doorstep. Keeping the theme close to home we highlight cruises ON YOUR DOORSTEP The Channel Islands 47 from UK ports, which are growing in populari- ty. And we tee it up in Spains Murcia region for IN YOUR FLIGHT BAG 53 our golf spotlight. WIN A stylish Travelwrap worth over 200Sit back, enjoy the read and catch those rays while they last. IN YOUR SUITCASE 54Peter Ellegard PLUS 5 Yale Travel Safes to give awayBEST FOR Hotels news and review684 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009

2. L E I S U R E EDITORIAL TEAM OUT & ABOUT Whats on outside London 56 Editor Peter Ellegard Writers Peter Ellegard, Keeley Gordon, Sara Macefield, Dave Richardson, Debbie Ward and COMING NEXT Whats in store in the next issue59 Frank Partridge Design Nick Blaxill Advertising Team Jeannette Cumbers, Beverley LONDON REVIEW Londons parks + London news 60 Sennett & Elaine Smith Admin/Accounts Wendy Barfoot Production Keeley Gordon, Loretta Prince Publisher Terry Stafford Digital Publisher Peter LewseyFREE BOOKS for newREADERS Published bi-monthly by Travel & Leisure Magazines Ltdsubscribers see page 59First Floor, 103 Cranbrook Road, Dont forget theLETTERSIlford, Essex, IG1 4PU Tel: 020 8477 1529 Fax: 020 8514 4536next issue of TheWe want to hear Email: info@tlmags.com Printed by Wyndeham HeronTravel & LeisureMAY/JUNE 2009 from you. 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No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written consent.A seven-night Continental camping trip PLUS: Time Out guides, Billy Connolly Rough Guides,DVDs, riding lessons and more on any topic. All private advertisers are totally responsible for their own wording within their advertisement, and Travel & LeisureTake out a subscriptionThe best letterwill win a STAR PRIZE. Magazines Limited can therefore take no responsibility asCall 020 8477 1529 to their content. Please seek legal advice and thereafter6 issues just 6, inc postage. SAVE 50% Email us atverify all the details of your purchase in writing beforeletters@tlmags.com proceeding. Front cover photo: Bournemouth Tourism July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine5 3. Karst awayin bling and buy paradise From its gorgeous beaches and craggy karst islands to golden palaces, jungles and great shopping, it is hardly surprising Thailand is such a popular holiday spot. Debbie Ward is a Thai dyed-in-the-wool fanTheres the big- paddle tour of scenicrock climbing; theres aheaded ghost mangroves at Thailands cultural side if you joinsaid my guide,southerly resort ofthe monks (and theflashing the beam Krabi. My small monkeys) at the nearbyof her torch into kayaking party notTiger Cave Temple;Main photo and inset:Tourism Authority of Thailandthe upper reaches only took in the big-and, of course, theresof the cave. I could make out a striped headed ghost cave but some of the worlds mostsnake-like creature with a bulge and an eye also tunnels hung withgorgeous beaches to lieat one end. I did what any tourist would do,stalactites and leafy corri-your towel upon.I took a photo. dors where brightly-colouredI Wat Pho BuddhaLow-key Krabi may not beAs I was wearing flip flops and my only crabs crawled up exposed treeThailands most popular resort (itmeans of escape was a kayak its just as well roots. lags in that respect behind Phuket andthis was no malevolent monster but a 2,000 Krabi could be considered a small-scale Koh Samui) but if your mental image of theyear-old cave painting, given its nicknameshowcase of the tourist appeal of whole of country is craggy limestone karst islands andby Thai fishermen.Thailand. Theres adventure with kayak- long-tail boats decorated with ribbons in aMy brush with ancient spirits came on a ing, jungle hikes to hot springs and even turquoise sea, this is where the photos youre6 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 4. getting to KNOWTHAILAND recalling were mostly likely taken. The icon- ic karst islands were made famous when oneI Long-tail boats and karst island off Krabi was used as a location for the villain Scaramangas hideout in the 1974 Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun. Now popu- larly known as James Bond Island, Koh Tapu (translating as Nail island as it is virtually vertical) is in Phang Nga Bay and can be reached on a day trip from Krabi or Phuket.Island hopping Krabis main strip, Ao Nang, has something of a waterborne rush hour each morning asDebbie Ward long-tails start their noisy outboard motors to whisk day-tripping tourists into karst- studded Phang Nga Bay. My partner and I joined one of the island-hopping excursions By night we enjoyed browsing the restau-By day, when we werent on excursions for a lazy day of sunbathing and snorkelling rants at the quieter eastern end of Ao Nang,we made shorter hops, using the long-tails on and around five beaches of increasing checking out the catch of the day displayed as a ferry service to the attractive neighbour- loveliness. Some of the places we stoppedon iced trays before tucking our legs under a ing beaches of Railay and, my personal at were nothing more than sandbars but bamboo table and tucking in to three or fourfavourite Thai beach, Phra Nang. Here, at enterprising Thais had turned their long-colourful stir-fry or curry dishes for underone end of the cliff-framed white sand strip, tails into floating cafes serving milkshakes,10. Afterwards wed head for a cocktail at a I found another surprise waiting in a cave sandwiches and fruit.bar converted from an old VW campervan. rows of brightly-painted wooden phalluses.July/August 2009The Travel & Leisure Magazine 7 5. While it may be a giggle for tourists, somelocals believe this cave contains the spirit ofa drowned princess and I kept a respectfuldistance from the devotees offering prayersbefore the unusual shrine. Friendly peopleThailands predominantly-Buddhist spiritu-ality is part of what makes it so famouslyfriendly. Thais consider it a loss of face toresort to argument and youll rarely hearraised voices. The short-lived violence at thegovernment protests of late last year was out Tourism Authority of Thailandof character in this usually-peaceful country.Buddhism also gives Thailand some of itsmost colourful sights, such as gold bell-shapedtemple stupas and saffron-robed monks. Mybeach shrine was a far cry from the countrysmore glitzy places of worship, the mostI Relxation, Thai stylerevered of which lies within Bangkoks keytourist attraction, the Grand Palace.On my visit I had my own lie down for atance are the Bridge over the River Kwai, theYou havent seen bling until youve wan-very affordable kneading at the massage so-called Death Railway built by WWII pris-dered this sprawling complex of gold leaf-school in Wat Phos grounds.oners of war, and Ayutthaya, the site ofcovered, jewel-encrusted buildings set Bangkoks other must-sees, the pottery Thailands former royal capital. At the sec-beside the citys Chao Phraya River. Despitestudded temple of dawn Wat Arun and ond of these I was charmed to discover thethe crowds its a peaceful place to be, withthe small Royal Barges Museum are close odd crumbling stone Buddha statue respect-Thais making incense and lotus blossomby and reached on a river boat tour. Just fully clothed with saffron robes or patchedofferings and kneeling before the preciousbeware of locals telling you the attraction with gold leaf among the restored templesstatue thats the focal point of the Temple ofyou seek is closed for lunch, flooded or oth- and atmospheric ruins. Most people arrivethe Emerald Buddha. Next door to theerwise unavailable and helpfully suggesting at Ayutthaya by road but its possible toGrand Palace, Wat Pho is home to a giant, alternative sights. Theyre invariably drum-make a romantic two-night, three-day jour-reclining Buddha with feet inlaid with moth-ming up business for a mate with a tuk-tuk! ney aboard a converted rice bargeer of pearl. Out of Bangkok but within day-trip dis-(www.manohracruises.com). G When visiting Bangkoks Royal Palace wear enclosedCultural tipsshoes or sandals with straps around the heels to save queuing to hire appropriate footwear.G It is considered rude to point your feet at people inG Be prepared to cover your shoulders and remove shoesThailand and especially at images of Buddha.Take care to inside temples.tuck your feet behind you when sitting on the floor, G The Thai royal family is highly-revered, so derogatoryparticularly in temples. comments about them and disrespectful treatment ofG Its also taboo to touch someones head, or to touch Baht notes bearing the kings image will not bemonks. appreciated. Tourism Authority of Thailand I The Royal Palace, Bangkok 8 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 6. Thai massage I Traditional Thai massage. Below left: Thai massage ingredients Thailands unique and effective form of massage combines stretches with reflexology-like stimulation of pressure points. Much attention is focused on the feet but the masseur will also pull your pyjama-clad limbs into slightly scary but ultimately muscle-easing positions, which is why this technique is sometimes called passive yoga.If youre nervous, start with a foot massage or the more gentle Thai treatments involving warm herbal poultices.Whatever you choose, your relaxation will be aided by the low cost.While youd commonly pay 1 a minute for a massage at home, 4 an hour is more typical in Thailands clean street or beachside centres (look out for the reflexology charts outside) and as little as 30 in a plush hotel spa with a range of international treatments.All photos:Tourism Authority of Thailand Cycling tourinside what looks like the belly of a bright from recycled animal feed sacks and eatingOn another visit to Bangkok, I made mywhite space ship. Glamorous skyscraper-top dinner under a chandelier hung with Barbieescape from the city on one of the capitalsbars such as Sirocco Sky Bar dolls. While not everyone will love thenew cycling tours. Thankfully this didnt (www.thedomebkk.com) at State Tower or quirkiness of this place there are severalroute me through Bangkoks traffic-choked Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar boutique hotels in the capital where the stylestreets; instead, our small group was led by(www.banyantree.com) atop the Banyan is more traditional, meaning you no longerthe guide along quiet paths through nearbyTree offer a different perspective with city have to go large for a bit of city chic.farming areas, creating our own refreshingviews that stretch to the horizon.breeze as we went. During an enlighteningBangkoks hotels also pack that wow fac-Bargain shoppingday, we stopped to ask farmers the secrets of tor and nowadays size isnt everything.I recommend hitting Bangkok last if youthe famously-stinky durian fruit and calledIve been lucky enough to stay in several can. Not only will you have shedin at a local infant school to watch an plush marble-lobbied giants on the your jetlag in a more relaxedEnglish lesson in progress. Flinging ourriverfront over the years but, on environment but youllmountain bikes into a boat for a short ride my last trip, I chose to down-have got to grips withup river, we ended up at Koh Kret, an islandsize to Reflections Rooms I Shop forhaggling and theknown for its pottery making and where we (www.reflections-thai.com), local crafts exchangeratewatched freshly-moulded incense burners a bizarre and very afford-before you hit thebeing loaded into kilns.able establishment where acapitals shopping While the big sights of Bangkok are abouthost of artists have been highlights.history, one of its other key attractions its given free reign with theMost touristsnightlife is bang up to date. Among the decor. I found myselfbeat a path to themost famous venues is Bed Supper Club crunching my way across myrather seedy streets(www.bedsupperclub.com), where you canroom on silver bubble wraparound Patpong fordance, or recline to eat and sip cocktailsflooring, sitting on a sofa madethe ever-popular night10 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 7. to see Cambodias famous Angkor Wat tem- ples is another great combination.Heres a regional round-up of Thailands key resorts:Andaman Sea Krabi and Phuket both front the spectacular island-studded Phang Nga Bay, a scenic playground of beautiful beaches, caves and cliffs for lazing, kayaking and snorkelling. Phuket, Thailands most popular resort, is by far the liveliest of the two. This is the place to come for big resort facilities, party action and international fast-food favourites. The large island, linked to the mainland by road bridge, has also gained some peace- ful and stylish retreats in recent years, par- ticularly on its east and north-west coasts. For divers, Phuket is the gateway to Thailands world-class sites of the Similan Islands, Surin Islands and Burma Banks. Quieter Khao Lak, on the mainland just above Phuket, is even closer. Classy resorts have sprung up on some of the islands in Phang Nga Bay, including Koh Lanta, Koh Racha and day-trip favourite the Phi Phi islands famous as the filming site for The Beach.Gulf of Thailand While most of Thailand is best visited in the winter months, sheltered Koh Samui to the south of the Gulf of Thailand has an opposite season. Its a honeymoon favourite so theres plenty of romantic accommodation while I Elephant riding in northern Thailandfamily attractions like a training centre forcoconut-picking monkeys are strung along the islands loop road. Offshore, you can market. While Ive had fun singing along to bites put paid to the mas- tour around Angthong National Marine Park Tom Jones impersonators at Radio City bar sage marathon I had or linger on neighbouring islands Koh Pha and snapping up a few bargains here in my planned on my last visit, I Ngan famous for its full moon parties time, for serious browsing I head tostill got to make like a celebri-and Koh Tao, a top spot for beginner Chatuchak. This colossal weekend market ty by having a Bangkok tai- divers. (also known as JJs), beside the northernlor (most are concentratedJust around an hours drive from SkyTrain stop of Mo Chit, boasts over around Sukhumvit Road Bangkok, brash Pattaya is a party 15,000 stalls.and top hotels) run resort with big-name facilities. ItsYoull find bargain silk scarves, hand-me up silk skirtsseedier side has been somewhat made candles, wood carvings and ornateand blouses to mycleaned up in recent years and its cutlery sets but half the fun is the spectacle. own designs. a well-established favourite with This is where Thais shop for anything fromThe classic families who stay at quieter furniture to pets to plastic fruit. I once even Thailand holidayJontiem beach and enjoy nearby spotted a monk choosing a hamster!combines Bangkok attractions such as water parks,If you prefer the air-conditioned comfortwith a beach and go-karting, an Elephant Village of a mall, youre spoilt for choice with giantsometimes a third stopand Sriracha Tiger Zoo. shopping centres catering for trendy teens to in the green and cul-Golfers flock to Pattaya, too, the well-heeled clustered around Siam tural North. Theas there are several quality Square and surrounding streets. country is also courses nearby.The great thing about buying anything in often linked with Hua Hin and Cha Am, Thailand is that its very affordable. This isits neighbours onalso within driving distance one of the few places in the world I can enjoytours of South Eastof Bangkok, are quiet neigh- my favourite indulgences, cocktails and spa Asia. A Thailand hol- bouring resorts favoured by treatments, on a daily basis. While mosquitoiday with a side trip the Thai royal family, whileJuly/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine11 8. Chic & boutique I The funky Dusit In recent years,Thailands decorative culturalD2 hotel at Pattaya traditions have been given a twist and the country has become something of a hotspot for chic contemporary design not least in its accommodation, with attractive new boutique hotels making a particular splash. Just some of the stylish offerings include: G The funky Dusit D2 brand hotels at Chiang Mai, Pattaya and, soon, Koh Samui (www.dusit.com). G Philippe Starck-designed The Yamu, opening on Phuket this year with a chocolate room and a recording studio (www.theyamu.com). G Back-to-nature and spa-focused Soneva Kiri by Six Senses, on the island of Koh Kood in the gulf of Thailand (www.sixsenses.com). G Minimalist The Racha on Koh Racha, off Phuket (www.theracha.com). G And the cheery, oriental chintz-themedDusit D2 Shanghai Mansion, in Bangkoks Chinatown (www.shanghaimansion.com). the large, up-and-coming island of Koh Thailand factsChang offers a mountainous interior and day-trip possibilities around its 50-plusWhen to go:neighbouring islands.Koh Samui is best from June to September and the rest of Tourism Authority of ThailandThailand November to March.Thailands North Not everything worth seeing in ThailandVisa:comes with a sea view. The countrys lushUK passport holders do not need a visa for stays up to 30 days.and mountainous North is packed full of adventure and culture.Getting there:Thailands second city, Chiang Mai, is theThai Airways (www.thaiairways.co.uk), EVA Air (www.evaair.com),gateway to the North and is famed for its nightBritish Airways (www.ba.com) and Qantas (www.qantas.com) fly direct. market, handicraft villages and sanctuaries forYou can also go direct to major resorts on charter flights.elephants that once worked in the logging industry. Farther north, Chiang Rai is a small-Tour operators:er hub and close to the Golden Triangle whereUK operators featuring Thailand include: Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk),TravelThailand, Laos and Burma meet in scenic2 (www.travel2.com), Funway Holidays (www.funwayholidays.co.uk), splendour around the Mekong River.Jasmine Travel (www.jasmineholidays.co.uk), Premier Holidays, You can trek to visit hill tribes in the(www.premierholidays.co.uk) and Silverbird (www.silverbird.co.uk). North though the tourist path is pretty well- worn these days. Soft-adventure experiencesGetting around:like mountain biking and white-water raft-Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) and Thai Airwaysing are also centred in the region as are some(www.thaiairways.co.uk) have extensive domestic flight networks. good golf courses. To head North in style,Beat the gridlocked daytime traffic in Bangkok by taking the SkyTrain, take the Eastern & Oriental Expressunderground, or river ferries. Iconic three-wheeled tuk-tuks are fun for (www.orient-express.com) from Bangkokshort trips (haggle the price beforehand) but metered taxis (check the to Chiang Mai, or, if youd rather chill-outmeter is on) are safer and more affordable.Take the less-congested tollsomewhere up-and coming, consider the laidTLexpressways in Bangkok. Cycling tours are offered by Bike & Travel back retreat of Pai in Mae Hong Song(www.cyclingthailand.com) and Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com).province.Ferry services and cheap long-tail boat taxis operate to the islands.A travel journalist for over a decade,Tourist information:Debbie Ward writes for numerousTourism Authority of Thailand: call 0870 900 2007 or visitpublications. She has a wardrobe full of Thaiclothing from her many Thailand visits.www.tourismthailand.co.uk 12 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 9. July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 13 10. 14 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 11. TRAVEL updateDoes my tum look BIG in this? W hen it comes to shopping, highlights the trends in the USAs top five women are the natural champi- inbound markets: Canada, Germany, Japan ons. After all, a girl can neverand Mexico plus the UK. have too many shoes. Or dresses. Or hand-Most British shopping travellers are bags. repeat visitors, it reveals, and good value andAnd that lovely, sparkly jewellery is just variety are the most important elements of perfect for those new outfits...their shopping experience. New York City isYet it seems the tables are turned whenthe top destination for British shoppers, at we go on holiday to the USA. New research 39%, followed by Orlando (20%) and Las shows that men outshop the girls once theyVegas (14%). cross the Atlantic, and by some considerable Shopping accounts for 25% of British margin, too.visitors spending on US trips, averagingThe International Shopping Traveller $968 out of a total trip spend of $3,845. Study shows that for almost 50% of BritishG Chelsea Premium Outlets opens its visitors shopping is either the key reason forCincinnati Premium Outlets in August and the trip or is a factor in their choice of desti- has just completed The Promenade exten- nations with men representing 56% ofsion to Camarillo Premium Outlets, near British shoppers, compared with just 44%Los Angeles. Extra discounts on labels for women.such as Hugo Boss, Diesel and Brooks I Step aside, girls: men are the biggest bargain huntersThe survey, unveiled at the recent Pow Brothers as well as boys toys favourites Wow international travel trade marketplacecompany Taubman Centres in partnershipSony and Bose are available by visiting show in Miami, was commissioned by thewith the US Department of Commercewww.premiumoutlets.com and joining Shop America Alliance and shopping mall Office of Travel & Tourism Industries. It the VIP club. Flagging up Britains Ferry good value and Fido can go, too best beachesTake an Irish Ferries cruise from Holyhead to Dublin or Pembroke A record184 to Rosslare in July and August and awardshaveenjoy a free night and three-course been given to dinner at Wexford hotel Carlton Millrace and UK coastal areas in Kildare hotel Carlton Abbey. Prices, from 214 recognition of high qual- per person, include three nights with breakfast ity under the Blue Flag and return Sunday-Thursday ferry crossings. See beach award scheme www.irishferries.com which is good news forIf the dog needs a holiday too, DFDS Seaways the five million Britons(www.dfds.co.uk) now offers the DEFRA Pet Travel Valerie Cameron planning to holiday inScheme (PETS) on both its Newcastle-Amsterdam the UK this year. I Thanets Blue Flag- and Harwich-Esbjerg routes, with pet travel fromAlthough this years winning Minnis beach19 each way. Pets, which can include rabbits, mice 72 Blue Flags is down byand rats, must be booked in advance and fulfil the 10 on 2008, mainly due respectively), followedG The Greek island of DEFRA scheme criteria. Call 0871 882 0885. to flooding, it is still a by Thanet on 11 (seven/Rhodes has more Blue huge increase from the four) and, both with 10, Flag beaches than any EARLY BIRDS: Early-bird offers in Funway 45 awarded in 2002. ASouthend (three/seven) other European island,Holidays expanded 2010 Far East brochure total of 113 Quality and Scarborough (two/at 33. Greece is second include a 14-night Thailand tour from 969 per Coast Awards were also eight).Bournemouth in the world rankings,person this autumn, with three nights in Bangkok made to British beaches. and neighbouring Poole with 424 Blue Flagand a free city tour, three nights in Chiang Mai andTop areas, with a total each have four Bluebeaches, behind Spain eight in Phuket, with flights, for bookings by of 14 each, were the IsleFlag beaches. Visit(493). In all, 3,300September 30. New for 2010 are Vietnam, of Wight (two Blue Flags www.blueflag.org/ukbeaches around theCambodia, Laos, the Philippines, China, Japan, South and 12 QCAs) and for a list of all award- world have the presti-Korea and Taiwan. www.funwayholidays.co.uk Torbay (five and ninewinning UK beaches.gious accolade.July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine15 12. TRAVEL updateMaldives specials T he perfect ideal of sun, (approximately 78) per villa sand and sea, theper night including breakfast. Maldives are now evenwww.hilton.co.uk/maldivesirufushi more accessible and afford- Nineteen individual houses I Save on stays at stylish Naladhu able with a new three-times- make up the stylish and exclu- a-week winter flight series from sive Naladhu resort, visited by (www.sonevaresorts.com) isoffers 28 nights in a Soneva Gili British Airways and specialcelebrities such as Wimbledon offering 14 extra nights free on topVilla suite from 6,675 per per- offers from some of the islands champion Roger Federer. On itsof a two-week stay, in return for son, including flights and transfers top resorts. own private island and equipped four days of community work at saving 5,800 per person.Book a beach villa at the 52- with antique furnishings and athe Soneva Fushi and Soneva GiliG British Airways also has new acre Hilton Maldives Iru Fushi personal butler service, you canresorts. Up to December 22, winter services from Heathrow Resort & Spa private islandget 25% off if you book 60 days guests can help by doing things to Las Vegas and from Gatwick before August 17 to travel in advance. Prices start from including teaching at local schools to Montego Bay (Jamaica), before August 31 and take$989 per room per night.or hospital volunteer work. PuntaCana(Dominican advantage of its two-for-one www.naladhu.com Elegant Resorts (01244 897517,Republic), Sharm el Sheikh offer; prices start from just $129Soneva by Six Senses www.elegantresorts.co.uk) (Egypt) and Innsbruck (Austria). I Atlantis, The PalmAnyone for tennis? Inspired by this years Wimbledonchampionships? Retallack Resortand Spa, Cornwalls five-star self- catering resort, is offering budding ten- Dubai kids dontnis stars the opportunity to hone their game on holiday. A new tennis coach- need to buy ing programme provided by experi- enced Lawn Tennis Association- licensed coaches costs from 4.50 perFor a family holiday with with two paying parents. person for a group lesson or 37 pera difference this year, Many restaurants alsoperson per hour for private lessons.take advantage of the have free kids meals. Prices start from 600 a week for aKids Go Free campaignDubai attractions are two-bedroom lodge. Visitin Dubai. From nowalso offering free entry www.retallackresort.com I Tresco I Flying Boat Club cottagesuntil September 20, to children under 16,for more details. bedroomEmirates is offering aamong them SegaTennis is also onbeach-front houses onfree return flight to Republic, Dubaioffer at the stylish newthe site of the old RoyalDubai for one child Aquarium and Under Flying Boat Club on Naval Air Station.under 16 travelling withWater Zoo and Dubaithe island of Tresco, inGuests have use of theboth parents, and 75 topIce Rink; while Atlantis,the Scilly Isles. Prestige indoor swimming pool,hotels, including the The Palm is offering freeHolidays is offering agym, steam room andRitz-Carlton, Grosvenor entry to its attractions three-night package there free tennis on the AstroturfHouse and One&Onlyand children can eat this autumn from 315 percourts as well as free golf onRoyal Mirage, are free at any Atlantis person, including return helicopterthe nine-hole St Marys course.offering three nightsrestaurant when dining flights from Penzance to Tresco andFor more information contactfree stays for one childwith an adult. heliport transfers.Prestige Holidays on 01425 480600 or You can rent one of the 12 luxurious visit www.prestigegrouptravel.co.uk16 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 13. July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 17 14. MusicCity ofI Mozart Dinner Concert in St Peters CellarFrom Mozart to the von Trapps, theres no escaping Salzburgsmusical heritage. With its beautifully-preserved centre and lots to see beyond it, you dont have to be music mad to enjoy avisit but it helps. Peter Ellegard sings its praisesVisit the pretty Austrian ing different genres during the year. Hence a traffic-free pedestrian precinct apartalpine city of Salzburgits soubriquet, the Festival City. And even iffrom early-morning deliveries. Tour groupsand you will find it isnt youre not a particular fan, there are plenty swarm in front of the building like beesjust the surrounding hills of other things to do and see which make theround a honeypot, and the rest of the streetthat are alive with thecity a great escape for a long weekend. also throngs with visitors day and night withsound of music, it is theTheres far more to Salzburg than its ancient buildings, quaint alleys and hid-whole city itself. Mozart, of course, but the two are inextrica- den courtyards full of cafes and restaurants.For Salzburg is not only where much of bly intertwined, as visitors soon discover. The cramped building houses numerousThe Sound of Music was set and filmed, but The imposing Hohensalzburg Fortress,exhibits including his original instruments,it is also where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart which stands guard on a clifftop high above letters and family portraits.was born, in 1756. the ancient rooftops and church spires, may Mozarts Residence, the family homeThe whole city went Mozart mad three be the citys most visited attraction, but thefrom 1773, is a more spacious affair inyears ago to celebrate the 250th anniversary next most popular sites are the two museums Markplatz and was where he wrote a num-of the birth of its favourite son, with a year-set in Mozarts homes. And even in theber of his works. It has also been preservedlong series of concerts, operas, exhibitions fortress you cant escape the maestro.as a museum to him.and other events.For those with a real appetite for the greatBut even though the celebrations are longQuaint alleys mans music, you can choose from severalgone, the city is still one of the best places toMozarts Birthplace, where he lived for 26themed dinner concerts during the summergo if you love music. Salzburg has moreyears, is in the heart of the old city on its tourist season. The Mozart Dinner Concertthan 4,000 music and theatre events cover- historic, narrow main street, Getreidegasse offers a three-course dinner prepared fromPeter Ellegard Peter EllegardPeter EllegardI Hallstatt villageI Old Town, SalzburgI Salzburg Cathedral 18 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 15. ESCAPE to SALZBURG city. Many of its magnificent architectural landmarks were used, and you can take a Sound of Music Tour to visit outlying vil- lages, lakes and mountains where other familiar scenes were shot.Whether you are a fan of the musical or not and I must admit I am not it is well worth a visit to nearby Hellbrunn Palace, one of the settings used in the movie. Its ornate palace and beautiful gardens are a delight for all ages, notably for the ubiqui- tous fountains which spring many surprises for the unwary. I wont spoil the surprise, other than to advise not wearing your Sunday best and to visit on a warm day when clothes will quickly dry. We made the mistake of visiting on a rainy dayYear-round appeal Salzburg can be visited any time of year and the experience will be just as enjoyable. Key attractions are open year-round and thereSalzburg Tourist Office are events in all seasons.In winter, the rooftops twinkle with fresh snow a taster of what lies in store at the many ski resorts less than two hours away and the 500-year-old Christmas Market (Salzburger Christkindlmarkt) livens up the recipes of the 17th and 18th centuries, served claim to fame revolves around The Sound of Cathedral Square (Domplatz) in the heart of in the Stiftskeller St Peter (St Peters Cellar) Music. A whole new generation of fans hasthe Old Town from late November with craft the oldest restaurant in Central Europe, been created by the latest stage productionstalls, choirs, gluhwein and roast chestnuts first mentioned during Charlemagnes visit of the musical, currently touring Britain, and and almonds. The annual 10-day Mozart in 803 during the intervals of a recital bythe successful BBC series, How Do YouWeek music festival (www.mozarteum.at) musicians in period costume. Solve A Problem Like Maria?, which madetakes place each January, featuring manyConnie Fisher an overnight success, repris-international artists. High on Mozart ing the role originally made famous by JulieSpring brings crisp days, flowers galore and My wife and I opted for an alternative din-Andrews. ner and concert in the 930-year-old Based on pre-war events Hohensalzburg Fortress, dining on high which happened to the local von with stunning views across fields and ham- Trapp family, the movie lets to the nearby mountains, followed by awas filmed in and Mozart performance in the elegant Statearound the Rooms overlooking the city. A magical experience, made even more special by the glorious setting sun lighting up the rooftops, cupolas and towers with streaks of gold.Salzburgs more recent Salzburg Tourist Office Salzburg Tourist Office I Mirabell PalaceI Salzburg and the Salzach River July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine19 16. A day trip into GermanysSound of Music countryBavarian Alps can include aboat trip on Konigsee lakeFans of The Sound ofto St Bartholoma chapelMusic can tour some ofand a visit to prettythe locations in themountain towncountryside beyondBerchtesgaden with viewsSalzburg used in the film,to Hitlers Eagles Nestwhich was based on themountain-top fortressreal-life story of theretreat.singing von Trapp family. A village north of SalzburgYou can even sing along tohas another musical claimthe music as the original to fame.The boatmenssoundtrack is playedchurch of St Nicholas in theduring the four-hour tour,village of Oberndorf waswhich visits the beautifulwhere Christmas carolSalzkammergut lake district.Silent Night was first sungHighlights include: Salzburg Tourist Officein 1818.The town was laterLeopoldskron Palace, themoved upstream after afront exterior of which was lake, as well as the villages devastating flood, but aused as the von Trapp familyof Gosau,Abtenau andSilent Night Memorialhome; Hellbrunn Palace, Golling, and the 9,855-foot Chapel was built on the sitenotable for its trick summit of Mount Dachstein,of the original church infountains; Fuschlsee lake,Styrias highest mountain.1937.A four-hour tourfeatured in the filmsSalzburg was founded on takes in the chapel andopening sequence; the the fortunes of salt, first Silent Night Museum inpretty village of Gilgen on mined in the nearby nearby Arnsdorf.the shores of Wolfgangsee mountains by the ancientZell am See is anotherlake; and Mondsee Celts.The 450-year-oldpopular excursion.A five-Cathedral, where theSalzwelten Salzburg salthour trip visits the lake-wedding scene was filmed. mines at Bad Durrnbergside town and 11th centuryLonger tours also visit the are open year-round and a Hohenwerfen Castle, withWorld Cultural Heritage guided tour features a raft a cable car ride up to theSite village of Hallstatt, by ride on a subterranean salt Schmittenhoehe mountain Peter Ellegardthe shores of Hallstattseelake. summit.trees bursting with blossom in and around the vivid reds and yellows of trees addingtlement once stood.city. And more music, of course. The Salzburg splashes of colour to the citys majestic Allow plenty of time to explore the won-Easter Festival(www.osterfestspiele-architecture. The Salzburger Kulturtage derful Old Town area in the heart ofsalzburg.at) is an annual celebration of classi-(www.kulturvereinigung.org), a more Salzburg, designated a UNESCO Worldcal music and opera.intimate version of the main Salzburg Heritage Site in 1997. Most of it is a traffic-Summers are usually long and warm,Festival featuring a series of concerts,free pedestrian precinct. I have spent hourswith the odd rainy day. Plus the avant- opera and theatre, takes place in October.wandering through the labyrinth of streets,garde dance festival, SommerSzene alleyways and squares as well as venturing(www.sommerszene.net), over 14 days Easy to explore into some of the many stately buildingsin June and July, which also features the-Salzburg is easy to explore, both on foot orwhich grace the skyline.atre, films and visual arts as well as music. by bus and the good-value Besides the Getreidegasse, other lovelyThat is followed by the Salzburg Festival SalzburgerLand Card gives free entry to all old streets to amble along, window shop or(www.salzburgerfestspiele.at), thethe citys major attractions as well as freegaze up at facades include Judengasse,citys long-established music and drama travel on the citys buses and theGoldgasse, Kaigasse, Linzergasse andfestival in July and August which includesHohensalzburg Fortress cable railway. Steingasse. Their buildings cover the Middlea concert broadcast on an open-air screenThe Salzach River cuts the city into two Ages, Romanesque, Baroque andin the citys Kapitelplatz. halves and is spanned by bridges includingRenaissance periods, as well as elegant andAutumn hints at the winter to comethe pedestrian-only Mozart, Makart andclassical monarchy-era burghers houses.with its cooler days (although October is Mulln footbridges. The left bank comprisesYou can also take in the Old Town sights onthe driest month) and chilly nights, thethe older part of the city where a Roman set- a traditional fiaker horse and buggy.20 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 17. Salzburg factsWhen to goAny time of year is good to visit Salzburg,with festivals and events throughout thecalendar. Be prepared for all weathers andpack a brolly, sweater and warm jacket. Getting thereBritish Airways (www.ba.com) and EasyJet(www.easyjet.com) fly direct to Salzburgfrom Gatwick during the summer. Ryanair Peter Ellegard (www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted.Winter charter flights operate for skiersI Ornate rooftopsheading to nearby resorts.You can also fly to nearby Munich, with services operated byBA, EasyJet, Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) and Aer Lingus(www.aerlingus.com) from London area airports. AccommodationThere are a number of hotels in the oldpart of Salzburg and across the SalzachRiver.The Blaue Gans boutique art-hotel(www.blauegans.at) makes an excellentbase.The oldest inn on the historicGetreidegasse street, this stylish 74-roomdesign hotel is set in one of the citysoldest houses. Peter EllegardTour operatorsMany operators offer short breaks toSalzburg, including Kirker Holidays I Residence Square(www.kirkerholidays.com), Inghams(www.inghams.co.uk), Crystal (www.crystallakes.co.uk), First Choice(www.firstchoice.co.uk) and Fregata Travel (www.fregatatravel.co.uk). I Salzburg has many fine, old buildings Getting around/attractions Grand edificesSalzburg is walkable, but it is worth Squaresinclude ResidenceSquareinvesting in a SalzburgerLand Card. It (Residenzplatz) with its ornate equine fountain,combines free entry to 190 sights and Old Market Square (Alter Markt), University attractions in the city and neighbouring Square (Universitatsplatz) and Mozart SquareSalzburgerLand region, with free use of city (Mozartplatz), which has a memorial to thebuses and discounts off car rental, tours and musical maestro and a tourist information office. cultural events. A six-day card costs 43Then of course there are its grand edifices. euros for adults and 21.50 euros for Besides the Cathedral (Salzburger Dom) andchildren, with 12-day cards costing 52 andPeter Ellegard Hohensalzburg Fortress, must-sees include 26 euros respectively. Buy it online at the Residence Palace (Residenz), St. Peterswww.salzburgerlandcard.com, or from Abbey (Stift St Peter) and its fascinatingI Hellbrunn Palacelocal information centres and some hotels. cemetery, and Mirabell Palace (Schloss Mirabell) with its romantic gardens on the Tourist information right bank of the Salzach. This is one of theSalzburg Tourist Office (Salzburg city): www.salzburg.info citys most popular places for taking pictures.SalzburgerLand Tourist Office (Salzburg region): www.salzburgerland.comBut perhaps best of all is to relax with a coffee Austrian National Tourist Office: 0845 101 1818, www.austria.info or beer in a street-side caf/bar or beer gardenTL and just let the world go by as you gaze out across one of the worlds most beautiful cities.July/August 2009The Travel & Leisure Magazine21 18. 22 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 19. all ABOARDCRUISING FROM THE UK Homewaters Forget the hassles of flying off for the start of your cruise holiday and join the growing numbers of passengers setting sail from Britain. The choice of departure ports and cruise itineraries is surprisingly large, as Sara Macefield explainsI Queen Victoria at Southampton How do you fancy starting no escaping the buzz and anticipation as theyour next holiday from departure time nears and the ships band strikesCruise tipsSouthampton,Dover, up for the traditional sailaway party on deck.G You can take as much luggage asHarwich or even Tower The excitement grows as the funnel blastsyou want on ex-UK sailingsBridge? Not only will youand the ship starts to move away from the because theres no baggage limit,miss out on the stress and quayside. Passengers waving flags and drink-but remember that its got to fit in hassles of flying and battling through airporting brightly-coloured cocktails add to theyour cabin. security queues, but youll be joining theparty atmosphere as they celebrate the start of G Beware the Bay of Biscay. Cruises growing band of British holidaymakers who a journey which, in some cases, will take from the UK to the Mediterranean have discovered the benefits of taking a cruise them from UK shores around the world. have to pass through this, so if from the UK.youre at all prone to sea-sickness,After all, what could be easier than load- Where can you go? take precautions. ing up the car, driving to, say, SouthamptonTheres never been a bigger choice of cruises G On Med cruises, pick a ship which and simply stepping aboard? from the UK.has plenty of onboard facilities soIt really is as simple as that. All you needHolidaymakers who dont want to fly canyou wont get bored on the sea to do is drive up to the port terminal, handnow choose from a huge variety of different days spent sailing to and from the over the car keys to a parking attendant andcruise lines and sailings that start at various UK. check in. points around the country.G If youre sailing south to the sun,Dont worry about struggling on with suit-These can range from a two-night mini- remember to take some warm cases as they get sent to the cabin separately, cruise to Bruges or Amsterdam right up to a clothes as it can still be chilly in leaving passengers free to go aboard, settle in three-month world cruise or a transatlantic the English Channel. and explore.crossing to New York.The holiday starts immediately, and theres But the most popular sailings are to the CunardJuly/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 23 20. Ex-UK cruise facts I Deck quoits is a fun waySample ex-UK cruises:to pass theFred Olsen Cruise Lines (01473 746175, www.fredolsencruises.com) istimeoffering a one-week Norwegian Vistas sailing from Newcastle on September12 from 647 on its ship Boudicca. It calls at several ports in Norwayincluding Alesund, Olden, Flam and Bergen.Specialist website Sail From UK (0808 202 6104, www.sailfromuk.com)which only sells cruises that sail from UK shores, features a 12-night sailingto Europe with P&O Cruises on October 5.The voyage, on Oceana,Fred Olsendeparts Southampton and sails to the Canary Islands with calls includingMadeira, Gran Canaria, Lisbon and Vigo. Prices start at 1,099 and include a50 onboard credit.Other useful cruise contacts:Celebrity Cruises (0845 456 1520, www.celebritycruises.co.uk)Cunard Line (0845 678 0013, www.cunard.co.uk)Crystal Cruises (020 7287 9040, www.crystalcruises.co.uk)Holland America Line (0845 351 0557, www.hollandamerica.co.uk) P&O CruisesHebridean Island Cruises (01756 704700, www.hebridean.co.uk)Hurtigruten (0845 225 6640, www.hurtigruten.co.uk)MSC Cruises (0844 561 7412, www.msccruises.co.uk)Norwegian Cruise Line (0845 658 8010, www.ncl.co.uk)Oceania Cruises (01344 772344, www.oceaniacruises.co.uk)P&O Cruises (0845 678 0014, www.pocruises.com) I Artemis in the fjordsPrincess Cruises (0845 3555 800, www.princess.com)Royal Caribbean International (0844 493 4005,www.royalcaribbean.co.uk)Swan Hellenic (0845 246 9700, www.swanhellenic.com)Silversea Cruises (0844 770 9030, www.silversea.com)Hebridean Island CruisesSt Helena Line (020 7575 6480, www.rms-st-helena.com)Thomson Cruises (0871 231 4691, www.thomson.co.uk/cruise)Transocean Tours (0845 430 0274, www.transoceancruises.co.uk)Voyages of Discovery (0845 018 1808, www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk) I Hebridean Princess in LondonMake sure you check out the website of the Passenger Shipping Association,which represents all the main cruise lines, at www.discover-cruises.co.uk Mediterranean or around northern Europe. such as Civitavecchia (for Rome) or Naplessuch as La Coruna or Bilbao, or French towns Voyages that go south to the Mediterraneanbefore having to turn back. Cruises of 16 including St Malo, the pretty town of Honfleurgenerally last for at least 12 days they havenights have time to go a little farther east, and and the port town of Le Havre.to as they need to include the two days it takes will sail as far as Greece.In Germany, stops include Hamburg orto sail between Britain and the Med at bothOther popular ports of call that pop up onBremerhaven, while the Dutch ports ofends of the cruise.itineraries include Malaga, Alicante, Cannes, Rotterdam and Amsterdam are popular ports. Most cruises tend to be for 14 nights and Marseilles and Barcelona.Scandinavian cities such as Copenhagen orconcentrate on the western Mediterranean asSome ships stay in northern Europe andBergen also feature in cruise itineraries, as dotime simply doesnt allow for thesail northwards to the Baltic States of the Shetland Isles, and the Channel Islands inships to sail any farther east.Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, sometimes con- the south. In the west, Irish ports such as Cork Thus ships will generally get tinuing on to St Petersburg.and Dublin add plenty of craic.as far as Italy, calling at portsAlternative destinations include Iceland,Then theres good old Blighty itself, where Norway and its spectacular fjords and ships may call at Tilbury, Greenwich or (if the Spitsbergen in the Arctic Circle, famous forship is small enough to get right up the Thames) spotting polar bears. Tower Bridge for London. Liverpool and These more northerly ports are particularly Newcastle also feature on cruise ship itineraries. popular around midsummer when the long Cruise passengers wanting to go fartherFred Olsen daylight hours lend themselves to Land of the afield can take their pick from the regular Midnight Sun cruises. six-day transatlantic crossings by Cunard Some ships stay closer to home, offeringLines Queen Mary 2 or, if they want tosailings around northern Europe that stopescape for longer, round-the-world voy- along the northern coast at Spanish ports ages offered by P&O Cruises and Cunard.24 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 21. I Norwegian Gem at Dover UK cruise departure ports and cruise lines (2009) Southampton Cunard Line, Celebrity Cruises, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, P&O Cruises, Princess Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean International,Thomson Cruises Dover Crystal Cruises, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, Holland America Line, MSC Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, Princess Cruises, Swan Hellenic. Harwich Royal CaribbeanPeter Ellegard International, Celebrity Cruises, Thomson Cruises,Voyages of Discovery London (Tower Bridge) Silversea Cruises, Hurtigruten London (Tilbury) Transocean Tours London (Greenwich) Holland America Line Portland St Helena Line, Hebridean Island Cruises Portsmouth Fred Olsen Cruise Lines Port of Tyne (Newcastle) Fred Olsen Cruise Lines,Thomson Cruises Liverpool Fred Olsen Cruise Lines Greenock Fred Olsen Cruise Lines Rosyth Fred Olsen Cruise Lines Oban Hebridean Island Cruises Scrabster Hebridean Island CruisesFred OlsenI Boudicca atValletta, MaltaAs several ships are based in the UK forsailings or long voyages; and Fred Olsen, ports to appear this year is Portsmouth, which the summer, theres always the chance to jump which offers Christmas markets sailings and is being offered by Fred Olsen Cruise Lines. aboard when they reposition themselves to the northern Europe and Canary Island sailings. Caribbean or elsewhere across the Atlantic forWho are the main cruise lines? the winter as long as you dont mind having Where can you cruise from?Riding the waves of the ex-UK cruise market to fly back.Southampton is the granddaddy of them all is P&O Cruises, which has six ships that are Cruisers looking for a different experience when it comes to cruising from the UK. Theall based at Southampton, while Cunard altogether can cruise on the RMS St Helena, South Coast port is easily the most estab-Lines has two ships the Queen Mary 2 and the last working Royal Mail Ship that offerslished and the biggest and this is where most the Queen Victoria based there. trips from Portland in Dorset to the Atlantic cruise ships are based during the year; someSeveral American cruise lines, such as island of St Helena, Namibia and South Africa.are here year-round.Norwegian Cruise Line and Princess Cruises, Some cruise lines offer British-focused This is where most Mediterranean cruisesalso have ships in Southampton during the itineraries. The small, upmarket company, depart from, along with transatlantic voyages.summer. Hebridean Island Cruises, operates a SouthDover is the second-most popular, havingThe biggest ship in the world, Coast cruise with calls including Cowes ongrown rapidly over the last few years, and its Independence of the Seas, owned by the Isle of Wight, Portsmouth and Dover,from here that lines tend to depart for northernAmerican line Royal Caribbean International, while Cunards QM2 is sailing a special Europe, Baltic and Arctic sailings. is based at Southampton. Round Britain voyage this autumn, calling atHarwich is probably the third-busiest, with Other major players offering several voy- ports such as Greenock and Liverpool. a mix of cruises offered from here. ages from UK ports include Fred Olsen During winter, the number of cruises sail-Some ports are served by just one cruiseCruise Lines, Thomson Cruises, MSCDiscovery and Hebridean Island Cruises. TL ing from the UK drops rapidly, leaving Cunard line which may only depart on a handful ofCruises, Celebrity Cruises, Voyages of and P&O Cruises offering round-the-worldoccasions during the year. One of the newJuly/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 25 22. CRUISE news CRUISE CLIPS Have you ever fancied going behind the scenes to see howUK cruises make a splashC cruise ships function? Princess ruises from the UK have never been so Cruises and Norwegian popular. The latest market figures show Cruise Lines are now offering that more British cruisers than ever before special ship tours thatare taking voyages which sail from local ports. According to industry body, the PassengerShipping Association, the number of passengersopting for a cruise that starts from the UKincreased by 23% last year compared with 2007. This means that four out of every 10 cruisesnow booked by Brits sails from a UK port. A record number of cruise lines, ships and pas-NCLsengers also visited UK ports last year, calling at promise to take passengers points such as Dover, Tower Bridge and Newcastle to areas normally off-limits,as part of longer sailings around northern Europe. such as back-stage in the The popularity of cruising holidays generally theatre, the galley (kitchen), seems unstoppable with nearly 1.5 million trav- Peter Ellegard engine control room, the ellers opting to spend their holidays on a cruise I CLs Norwegian bridge, medical centre and ship last year. Gem at Dover even the funnel. Prices start Overall, one in every 12 foreign package holi- at $55 for a two-hour tour days booked in the UK is now a cruise 10 years with NCL and $150 for aago this figure was just one in every 26.prices have also fallen. three-hour tour withThe Mediterranean remains the favourite cruise More than one-third of all cruises cost less than Princess.destination, but voyages to northern Europe and1,000 in 2008 and this year there were expectedthe western edge of Europe have become moreto be more cheap deals. Crystal Cruises has come popular and risen to second place, overtaking the The inclusive nature of cruises with meals, up with the perfect solution Caribbean. accommodation, entertainment and, of course, for people who areThe good news is that the credit crunch and multiple destinations, means they are great value, bamboozled by the latest hi- fierce competition between cruise lines meanssaid PSA director Bill Gibbons. tech gadgets. It is introducingtechnologyconcierges on its ships totrain andScottish launch for CosmosHeducate guestsoliday company Cos- on everythingmos Tourama is dip- from Apple ping its toe into unfa-iPods and miliar waters with the launch of BlackBerry its first-ever UK cruise to meet smartdemand from customers want-Research in Motion phones toing to stay closer to home thiswirelesssummer.devices and It is offering four-night navigational Autumn in the Scottish aides. Highlands sailings this October Cosmos Touramaon the MV Lord of the Glens, avessel built in the style of a clas- I MV Lord of the Glens Bargain-hunters looking forsic, luxury yacht. a last-minute deal should go It will sail between Fort to MSC Cruises website at Augustus and Oban in the heart Ness, Loch Linhe, Tobermory and and from Glasgow Central www.msccruises.co.uk of Argyllshire, travelling past theNeptunes Staircase, an eight-Station. where it has launched a Deal dramatic loch landscapes of thestage ship lock. For more information contact of the Day offering specialGreat Glen and the picturesqueThe cruise costs from 609 Cosmos Tourama on 0871 423 offers on specific voyages.coast of the Isle of Mull. and includes full board and 8695 or visit the website:Cruise highlights include Loch refreshments plus transfers to www.cosmostourama.co.uk26 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 23. July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 27 24. ZULU dawnsing though it was at the time for the nation. From its moving Zulu and Boer War battlefield sites, toNever before had a native army taken on and superlative wildlife parks, stunning beaches and annihilated such a powerful, well-armed and magnificent scenery, South Africas Zulu Kingdom istrained fighting force. Yet, another battlefought later that day, January 22, 1879, less a world-class destination, which will soon be welcomingthan 10 miles away has gone down in legend.the world. Peter Ellegard reportsVictoria CrossThat battle was Rorkes Drift, celebrated forI t was one of the most movingplace 130 years ago were vividly brought tothe fact that 139 British soldiers holed up in moments I can ever recall. We werelife by our guide, using his baton for effect as a tiny, fortified mission camp held off thou- sat on chairs on a hillside plateau,he reconstructed that infamous day in breath-sands of Zulu attackers for 12 hours until overlooking a sweeping plain dom- taking detail. A few hundred yards awayreinforcements arrived. Eleven Victoria inated by a craggy hill directly in another group was equally fixated as their Cross medals were awarded to the valiant front of us and with a long escarp- guide regaled the same desperate tale. defenders, more than for any other singlement in the distance.For we were on the battlefield of one of battle in history. And it inspired the iconic Small, white stone cairns dotted the land-the worst defeats ever inflicted on the British1964 blockbuster film, Zulu, which starredscape all around us, the highest concentration Empire Isandlwana. An entire garrisona young Michael Caine. Whereasaround the base of the crag, where there werecomprising over 1,000 of the British ArmysIsandlwana, where three VCs were won, wasalso several larger monuments. There was a finest had been overwhelmed and wiped outdepicted in the follow-up flop, Zulu Dawn.chill in the December air despite it being by 20,000 Zulu warriors, and the white-paint-So captivating was the recounting, itsummer in the Southern Hemisphere, but ited stones marked where they had all fallen.almost felt as though we were witnessing thewas nothing compared to the chill I felt in my Few other than historians would recognisebattle itself. But then much of it had beenspine as the tragic events of that desolatethe name of that bloody episode today, shock-passed down by word of mouth from Zulus28 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 25. off the beaten TRACKKWAZULU-NATALRoger de la HarpeI Zulu dancersI Rorke's DriftmemorialPeter Ellegard Roger de la HarpePeter EllegardI Isandlwanabattlefield siteI Rorkes Driftwho had actually fought there. The near eye- Zulu battlefieldsduty soldier and keen amateur historian. witness accounts had been collected by his-The Anglo-Zulu War battlefields wereThere are many Zulu and Boer War bat- torian David Rattray, who spent many hours among the highlights I had been lookingtlefield sites you can visit, particularly sitting overlooking the battlefield as we did, forward to seeing on my trip to Southaround Ladysmith (famous for its siege in talking to an elderly Zulu chief.Africas KwaZulu-Natal province, other-1899) and Dundee, the nearest city to Tragically, the man locals called thewise known as the Zulu Kingdom. They Rorkes Drift. Provincial capital Durban is white Zulu was killed in a robbery at themore than lived up to my respectively 235km and 173km from them, Fugitives Drift lodge he ran with his wifeexpectations and I about three hours or so by road. Nicky and three sons, near Rorkes Drift, in would highly With Durban one of the host cities early 2007. We had lunch at the lodge later, recommend and met Nicky. I was sorry I didnt get to anyone think- meet her husband, especially having listened ingabout to his spellbinding narration from a recordedvisiting radio series while en route to Isandlwana on thereto the bus. include them On the way to the lodge we had spent anon a tour itin- all-too-brief 20 minutes at Rorkes Drift. erary. Months Having listened to Davids graphic recordedlater, I did just portrayal of events there, the graveyard and that when I was in a museum were just as emotional an experi- pub in the middle of ence, even if the original buildings no longer nowhere in Scotlands Trossachs region and survive. Perhaps the most poignant sight was overheard the people on the next table being the bronze Zulu memorial, consisting of atold about the Battle of Isandlwana by anRoger de la Harpe leopard resting on a stack of warrior shields. enthusiastic member of their party, an off-July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 29 26. I Superb beachesfor the 2010 football World Cup, this south- eastern part of South Africa is likely to see a lot of interest and increasing visitor numbers in the next year or so. Durban itself is undergoing a huge ren- aissance, with many new facilities being added (including a superb new stadium to stage the World Cup games) and major investment in its infrastructure. The beaches in the city and along the neighbouring coast- line are some of the best in the world and they enjoy the warmest sea temperatures in South Africa, reaching up to 28C. Its hotels are second to none, too. Few places pamper you as much as the beachfront Suncoast Hotel & Towers. Sadly, my groups timing Roger de la Harpe could have been better. We played golf near- by the day we checked in and our late arrival meant we just missed the poolside swimsuit parade at the hotel for the Miss World contestants, who were in Durban atAction andthe same time as us. adventure Sharks That night, we dined alongside a giant aquarium full of menacing sharks in one ofThe Zulu Kingdom is heaven for adrenalin the most unique dining environments I have Toruism KwaZulu-Natal junkies. It offers some of the best diving inencountered, set in an imaginative rustingthe world, notably for encounters with ships hulk at the uShaka Marine Worldsharks.park (www.ushakamarineworld.co.za). Protea Banks and Aliwal Shoals,This coastline is famous for its sharks.respectively 90 and 45 minutes south ofThe KwaZulu-Natal Sharks BoardDurban, are the prime shark-diving areas (www.shark.co.za) has been protecting theoff KwaZulu-Natal. Divers can encounterbeaches off Durban for swimmers andspecies such as non-aggressive ragged- surfers for over 40 years with netting. It istooths, known affectionately as Raggies, the only organisation of its kind in the world,which go to Protea Banks in spring and you can visit its HQ in Umhlanga Rocks(August/September) to mate and to learn about sharks with an audio-visualcongregate in schools of up to 60 at Aliwaldemonstration followed by a live dissection,from July to October, as well as Zambezis, after which you can view lifelike replicas ofgreat whites and hammerheads.You can sharks, fish and rays, including that of aPeter Ellegardeven free dive with dangerous tiger sharks 892kg great white shark.at Aliwal, where operators chum the KZN (as the province is often shortenedwater with bait to attract them. to) is known for other wildlife too, and we Sodwana Bay is Africas most southerlygot the chance to see some of its most notedcoral reef, and also marks thewildlife which provide the thrills. Besidesinhabitants on water and game safaris.southernmost area where giant whale Hluhluwe-Imfolozi, other game reservesWe took a boat tour of the iSimangalisosharks are found, their range extending upwhere you can see them include Phinda, Wetland Park, the new name for UNESCOto Mozambique. Another incredible Thanda and the Tembe Elephant Park.World Heritage Site the Greater St Luciaspectacle is the annual Sardine Run And if you want sports action, there isWetland Park, and got some fantasticbetween May and July, when huge shoalsgolf of the highest calibre on courses close-up views of hippos wallowing in theup to 15km long migrate up the KwaZulu- including Princes Grantshallows. A short drive took us toNatal coast.(www.princesgrant.co.za), Durban Hluhluwe-Imfolozi, one KZNs most cele- The former Greater St Lucia WetlandCountry Club (www.dcclub.co.za), brated game reserves and one of severalPark, now iSimangaliso, has boat safaris to Selborne (www.selborne.com) andwhere you can see the Big Five. Once thesee hippos and many different bird species. Champagne Sports Resorthunting grounds for Zulu kings, they intro-On land, it is the Big Five animals and other (www.champagnesportsresort.com). duced the first conservation laws there, in 1895. It was in the reserve that the white30 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 27. July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 31 28. I Zulu woman Roger de la Harpe Peter Ellegard I Elephant encounterrhino was saved from extinction, in the KwaZulu-Natal facts1960s. The weather was so cold as we clambered When to go aboard our open-sided safari trucks that we The Zulu Kingdom enjoys a sub-tropical climate with year-needed blankets over our legs to keep warm. round sunshine, and rain generally in November and March.But we were rewarded with the immediatePeter Ellegard Game viewing is best in winter (June and July). Seasight of an elephant as we entered the gates. temperatures averaging 22C make it a great family destination.And as we were driven around the reservewe were lucky enough to see another one Getting therealmost within touching distance, but so busy Durban is a one-hour flight or easy six-hour drive from Johannesburg,eating juicy leaves we were scarcely noticed. which is served by direct flights from London by South African Airways We also spotted lots of antelope and zebra, (www.flysaa.com), British Airways (www.ba.com) and Virgin Atlantic some water buffalo, warthogs, giraffes and a Airways (www.virgin-atlantic.com). Flight time: 11 hours.pride of resting lions with playful cubs.Getting around Rich culture KwaZulu-Natal is easy to get around, with excellent roads. Most attractionsArriving for our overnight stay at our near- are within a three or four-hour drive of Durban and each other. Car rental by hotel, the Protea Umfolozi, we were companies include Avis (www.avis.co.uk). treated to an energetic display of traditionaldancing by local Zulu boys. You can see Accommodationdancing and other Zulu culture throughout You can find top-quality accommodation throughout the province. Amongthe province, visiting a rural Zulu village or South African hotel groups with properties are Southern Sunenjoying organised cultural experiences (www.southernsun.com),Three Cities (www.threecities.co.za) and such as Shakaland or Duma Zulu. Protea Hotels (www.proteahotels.com).There are also lodges includingBesides its battlefields, wildlife and rich Fugitives Drift (www.fugitives-drift-lodge.com) and resorts such as culture, KwaZulu-Natal is rich in natural Champagne Sports Resort (www.champagnesportsresort.com) andbeauty. Nowhere is that more evident than in Selborne Hotel, Spa & Golf Estate (www.selborne.com).the spectacular Drakensberg Mountains,where you can go hiking, mountain biking Tour operators or horse-riding. We were there for another A number of tour operators feature KZN, including Virgin Holidaysactivity golf. Staying at the Champagne (www.virginholidays.co.uk), Somak Holidays (www.somak.com), Jetset Sports Resort, the mountains reared up dra- Holidays (www.jetset-holidays.co.uk), Premier Holidays matically just beyond the course and behind (www.premierholidays.co.uk),Tropical Sky (www.tropicalsky.co.uk),our chalets. With an elevated clubhouse deck Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk) and Audley Travel (www.audleytravel.com).giving sweeping vistas, few golf resorts can Local tour operator Thompsons Africa (www.thompsonsafrica.com) has enjoy such glorious surroundings. an extensive programme of KZN tours.All too soon, our week-long stay inKwaZulu-Natal was over. It was a truly mes- Tourist informationmerising destination, yet one I feel I haveTL Visit the Zulu Kingdoms website on www.zulu.org.zabarely scratched the surface of. One thingsfor sure I will definitely be back.32 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 29. July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 33 30. Cosmos Tourama I Cosmos Touramas Platinum Explorer in Europe Holidayson the buses Coach tours have something of an unwarranted, old-fashionedgroup, and plenty of names and addresseswere exchanged on the return ferry trip image but things are very different these days with vehicles across the Channel.bristling with the latest creature comforts. Dave RichardsonOld-fashioned imagetells it like it really is Many people would never think of joining acoach tour, but I enjoyed it even though IWe were told it wouldBrussels); four nights at Lake Garda, nearhavent yet repeated the experience. Coachbe a long day ofVerona; and two nights taking a different tours are stuck with an old-fashioned image,travelling, with only route back. just like holiday camps especiallya couple of stopsDay two was to be the killer, a slog along among people who have never been.and not to expect Germanys autobahns and over the AustrianA modern coach can cost up to 250,000dinner until 9.30pm border to a village near Innsbruck. It waswith all the latest comforts, and advanced over 12 hours away. I was already cross-boring, but there were three stops and we safety and fuel-efficiency measures. Coaching my legs, although there was a toilet on arrived in good time for dinner at 8pm. tour market leader Shearings has bought 45board.Thats when I realised our two coach driversnew Setra coaches this year of the same type It was day two of a nine-day Leger were good at psychology make it seemused for the England football team noHolidays coach tour called Verona Opera bad, and if its better then youre happy.wonder its saying Bus it like Beckham!Experience, which we had joined near our I was in my mid-40s but I felt young, The hotels used are generally muchhome town in Oxford. Two nights would bewith all the other passengers over 50 and improved too, and you may well stay atspent on the way (the first was nearmany well over 60. But we gelled well as achain hotels such as Holiday Inn rather than34 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 31. ?? ?? lets TRY ESCORTED COACH TOURS Leger HolidaysI The Burlington Hotel,EastbourneI Jerusalems Dome of the Rock ShearingsShearingsI Coach holidays are relaxingFaraway toursSome people who wouldnt be seen deadon a coach tour are happy to take anescorted tour somewhere exotic where most of the travel is likely to beby coach. The US, Canada, Australia and NewZealand are particularly popular, whileSouth Africa, Japan and China are on theup. In larger countries you will probablyGrand UK ShearingsI A Grand UK tour fly over long distances before picking upI Shearings has invested in new coachessmanager and clienta coach again, but you could also usetrains and river boats. McGrottys especially in cities. There arehotel for most of the holiday with the coachCosmos Tourama is operating more still plenty of seaside hotels in Britain where operating excursions.holidays to special events, such as the the floors creak as badly as their guests But theres still a place for the grand tour, New Orleans Jazz Festival and the Harbin joints, but most have been smartened up and and with operators such as Snow and Ice Festival in China. Costa make a genuine effort to please amid theCosmos, Insight VacationsRica, India/Bhutan and Mexico have also faded grandeur. and Trafalgar, that can be a been added. The entertainment seems to belong tovery cosmopolitan experi- The credit crunch doesnt seem to be another age, but as the Baby Boomer gener-ence with passengers affecting escorted tours, according to ation hits 60 you are more likely to hear The from many parts of the another large operator,Travelsphere. It Beatles in the ballroom rather than the Joe world trying to dodescribes its customers as debt-free, Loss Orchestra. Europe. Leger isthrill-hungry culture vultures, and The most popular destinations are the also seeingoperates over 700 holidays in 80 scenic countries of Europe especially increased demand countries. Austria, Italy and Switzerland. Some of the for Grand larger tour operators, including Cosmos Explorer tours Tourama, can also fly you out to join the like Arctic coach abroad cutting out some tiring trav-Circle and elling, but with airport hassle and luggage The Land of restrictions to be factored in. Eurostar is an increasingly-popular option, with high- speed rail travel as far as Paris or Brussels.Easy-going trend Theres also a trend towards more easy-going itineraries, which Cosmos calls Leisurely. Rather than packing and unpacking every day, you will be based at oneI Fall guys: a Cosmos Tourama PlatinumExplorer coach in New England Cosmos Tourama July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 35 32. Leger HolidaysI Leger Holidays Silver Service Luxury coaches Some of the biggest coach operators offer premium coaches on some Cosmos Tourama departures, for a reasonable supplement. They are generally used on longerI A Cosmos Platinum European or North American tours, butExplorer coach in Europe could turn up closer to home. Shearings has the Grand Tourerthe Midnight Sun once in a lifetime expe-has launched a website to encourage (previously operated by its rival Wallace riences that people want to take despite the younger people to explore family history Arnold, which it took over) and Eurocredit crunch. (www.keepthememoriesalive.co.uk). Tourer. Cosmos Tourama operates theMany tours nowadays are themed, espe- Platinum Tourer and Leger the Silvercially short breaks which are a good way ofGoing for a song Service coach.seeing if a coach tour is for you. Gardens,Shorter and more-themed tours tend to The basic premise is the same steam railways, castles, photography, paint- attract a slightly younger age group, but remove one or more rows of seats anding and spas are examples, plus visiting within the UK most coach customers are everyone has more leg-room. A standardplaces made popular by TV series such as still 60-plus. Its no coincidence that coach usually seats between 48 and 56 Heartbeat or Last of the Summer Wine.Shearings customers have voted Cliff passengers, whereas Shearings seats 42 inLeger is a leading operator of tours to the Richards hit, Summer Holiday (1963), as a Euro Tourer and only 36 in the GrandWorld War 1 and 2 European battlefields, their favourite holiday song, and Shearings Tourer. with an expert guide to visit places such as is making this and other holiday hits avail- Premium coaches usually have a lounge Flanders, the Somme and Normandy (forable as a download on online music store area at the back where people can meet, the 65th anniversary of the D-Day landings iTunes. onboard drinks and snacks, andthis year). Interest in battlefield tours is still Shearings expects a lot of people to entertainment including DVD player andincreasing, but Legerswitch to a UK holiday this year, and has 49 sat nav display.of its own hotels which you can travelto independently ratherI St Basil'sCathedral,MoscowLeger HolidaysGrand UK 36 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 33. TipsG You dont need to join in everything,but if youre not a sociable person, acoach tour probably isnt for you.G You will generally eat as well as travelas a group, but some more priceytours give you an a la carte allowance.G Some tours keep down headlineprices by limiting the number ofexcursions included, so consider whatyou might want to do as it might bemore expensive to buy on the spot.G If you dont fancy a long road trip, joina tour that starts with a flight or railjourney.G Some operators make big efforts toattract single travellers. Romancemight even bloomthan taking a coach tour. Grand UKHolidays has nine of its own hotels, in popu- Grand UKlar resorts such as Torquay, Skegness,Blackpool and Llandudno. Grand UK operates exclusively for theover-55s and has a high volume of singleCoach tour factstravellers, with no single-room supplementspayable on most holidays and a dedicatedSolos programme so like-minded people canMost coach tour operators are small and local, withtravel together. It offers a complete luggageonly a handful of national names.The Coach Tourismhandling service, taking this element of Council (0870 850 2839,worry out of a holiday, and also offers tourswww.coachtourismcouncil.co.uk) is a good wayof Europe including river cruise combina-of finding them as it has nearly 150 operatorCosmos Touramations. members, both large and small. Grand UK offers Ruby and Golden wed-Wallace Arnold Worldchoice (0845 365 6747) is anding anniversary holidays for couples to agency specialising in coach holidays and operates arenew their vows, and more than 500 cou- bookable website at www.coachholidays.comples have taken them so far. As I journeyed back from Italy I won- Major operators include:dered what kind of holidays I might fancy in Shearings (01942 824824, www.shearings.com)30 or 40 years time, and I was reminded ofLeger (0844 504 6342, www.best-of-europe-withleger.co.uk)a distant relative who remarried at the age of Cosmos Tourama (0871 423 8647, www.cosmostourama.co.uk)90 after meeting his new gal on a coach. Grand UK (01603 619933, www.grandukholidays.com) The psychology was still going strong asTravelsphere (0800 567 7372, www.travelsphere.co.uk)we left the party, waved off by our cheerydrivers who still had another 300 miles to Sample prices:go.Legers D-Day Landings in Normandy tour costs from 199 bed and If you had a good week, were Roy andbreakfast for four days. A five-day tour from 299 is by luxury Silver ServiceIan, they said. If you didnt, were Bill andcoach, available on selected dates.Ben. TL I did, thanks partly to Roy and Ian. Ill beBest of Western Canada is a 14-day holiday by Cosmos Tourama, costingback on the road some day. from 2,015 including return flights.Visiting Vancouver and the Rockies, it includes many excursions plus rail and cruise trips, but not meals. Dave Richardson started taking day trips by coach at the age of 12 and was soon takingGrand UKs North Wales Coast holiday is based at its own Grand Ash overnight trips to various parts of the country. He Hotel in Llandudno, costing 269 for five days with half-board, including two went on to try his first coach tour to Europe and is planning an escorted tour of the US in 2010. full-day excursions. 38 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 34. 40 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 35. pack your CLUBS MURCIA, SPAINGolf with star appeal Peter EllegardI La Manga Club hotelSpanish region Murcia is synonymous with Britsfavourite La Manga but,thanks to an explosion of golf facilities, it is now Spainsfastest-growing golfdestination. Peter Ellegard recently returned to where itall beganW ith my golf bag slung over one shoulder and my other arm clutching golf shoes, the lift buttons were tricky to reach.Thankfully, another hotel guest who got inbehind me spared my contortions, askingwhich floor I wanted and pressing the button.Recognising the voice, I looked round andsuddenly realised who my lift partner was just managing to avoid blurting out somethingstupid, like arent you Glenn Hoddle?It was just after Hoddles tenure as Englandfootball manager some 10 years ago and wewere at La Manga Club, in Spains Murciaregion. But star-spotting is nothing new there.For more than 35 years, the sprawlingleisure complex has not only been a bywordfor holidaying Brits, but has also been a mag-net for celebrities. Many have bought luxuryvillas alongside its golf courses.A frequent La Manga visitor, I have previ-ously spotted actress Patsy Palmer Biancafrom Eastenders sunning herself poolsideand seen former F1 world champion NigelMansell, a villa owner, setting off in a golfPeter Ellegardbuggy for a leisurely round. Other regularsinclude David Coulthard, Kenny Dalglish, Sir I Driving off on La Mangas North CourseCliff Richard and Alan Hansen. July/August 2009The Travel & Leisure Magazine 41 36. Home from homeThe home-from-home feel is hardly surpris-ing; it was owned and run by British institu-tion P&O for a quarter of a century until late2004. To many, La Manga was and is Murcia,and vice versa.But La Manga no longer has a monopoly.Murcias golf facilities have expanded rapidlyin recent years. Now Spains fastest-growinggolf destination, it has 17 courses with moreunder construction or planned.Newcomers have dramatically enhanced Polaris World Murcias golf resort scene. They include the 27-hole Mosa Trajectum resort and resort operator I Nicklaus Golf Trail course El VallePolaris World, which has linked with golf leg-end Jack Nicklaus to create the Nicklaus Golfemies, several villa complexes all with their lies also found on its siblings and largeTrail a circuit currently comprising fourown pools, over 20 bars and restaurants,greens with wicked slopes.courses and which will eventually boast nine.shops, banks, a pharmacy and even its ownThe West Course is the prettiest, snakingOther Murcia courses have designs by the petrol station. A private beach in a rocky cove through a more rural setting of hills and pinelikes of Dave Thomas and Spains own Seveoverlooked by a restaurant is accessed by a trees, to finish with a towering 18th tee givingBallesteros. road blasted through the towering sea cliffs. grandstand views of La Manga and the Med.All of which is bringing more golfing visi-Top football clubs use its extensive training With numerous blind shots, it demands target-tors to this south-eastern corner of Spain,facilities and many sports stars take part in golf precision.tucked between the provinces of Alicante and charity golf tournaments.Almeria. Most courses are along the coastalLa Mangas three courses are both a joy Nicklaus Golf Trailstrip, known as the Costa Calida. Visitors and a challenge. Easy resort golf it isnt.Created by Polaris World with golf legendarrive via Alicante or Murcias tiny San JavierOriginally designed in 1971 and remod-Jack Nicklaus, the Nicklaus Golf Trail is aairport, just 20 minutes from La Manga. Theelled in 1992 by Arnold Palmer, the champi-unique circuit of courses bearing the stamp ofsleepy little airport I recall from early visits onship South Course features wide, palm-the Golden Bear. Of the four courses alreadynow bursts at the seams at peak times. fringed fairways and water hazards on 15 ofopen, three are 18-hole layouts. Two moreA brand new airport opens next year at the 18 holes, including some new ones addedcourses are under construction and work willCorovera, 20 minutes from the provincial cap-in a multi-million renovation that I discovered,soon start on the other three.ital, the city of Murcia, to cope with the influx. quite literally, on my recent visit. The trail courses open so far are: The more aesthetically-pleasing but shorterLa Torre Best Golf: a short 18-hole, par 68Return to La Manga North Course is partly laid out on higher ele-course with wide fairways, suitable for inter-A recent return to La Manga gave me thevations, with challenges provided by palmmediate or high handicappers.chance to see it for the first time since it cametrees, lakes and barrancas natural storm gul-El Valle Best Golf: a desert-style, 18-hole,under Spanish ownership, and since the hacien-par 71 course featuring lakes, waterfalls andda-style former Hyatt Regency hotel becameclusters of bunkers set amid rocks and abun-the independently-operated La Manga Clubdant native vegetation.Principe Felipe earlier this year.Off courseHacienda Riquelme Best Golf: this largerI was heartened to see the resort wasthan average 18-hole, par 72 course enjoyslittle changed from my last visit, a Murcias coastal stretch, the Costa Calida, offersa Mediterranean setting surrounded bydecade ago; if anything, it was better.unspoilt white sandy beaches, picturesque towns, fishingolive trees with several large lakes.The hotels rooms were better- ports where you can dine on tasty local catches, natural Mar Menor Best Golf: a nine-holeappointed than I remembered, and beauty spots, and two seas offering water sports galore the course currently being extended tonew facilities had been added. Mediterranean and the enclosed Mar Menor, protected by a long18 holes, its wide fairways andAmong them an impressive spa finger of land edged by beaches.This is La Manga strip, a favouritelarge bunkers are ideal for begin-overlooking the vast resort, from holiday spot for the Spanish with hotels, apartments, shops, bars and ners and learners.where you can truly appreciate La restaurants.Trail courses still to openManga Clubs scale. The city of Murcia, the regional capital, claims to have more festivals include: the 18-hole, par 72 LasThree times the size of Monaco, than any other Spanish city. Septembers Moors and ChristiansTerrazas de La Torre, a desert-styleit encompasses three 18-hole golf parade sees an effigy of the Virgin Mary carried to a mountaincourse with dunes encasing greens;courses, a golf academy, an 18-holeshrine and bull fights in the city arena.While Romanthe Condado de Alhama, a signaturePar 47 pitch and putt course, 28 tennisstronghold Cartegena where Hannibal grew up course designed by Jack Nicklaus him-courts, football centre with eight pitches, holds a 10-day Carthaginians and Romans Festival self with sharp elevations; and the Bearstwo cricket pitches, rugby and Gaelic footballeach September, with camps, battle re- Best I and II 18-hole duo, with differingfacilities, a Junior Club and junior sports acad-enactments and chariot races.styles reminiscent of Florida and the Arizona42 The Travel & Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 37. Murcia GOLF factsPeter Ellegard Tourist information For information about Murcia and its golf courses, visit the Murcia Tourist I La Mangas South Course Board website, www.murciaturistica.es/PORTAL/Weather Murcias semi-arid, sub-tropical climate is ideal for golf year-round, with an average temperature of 21C and more than 300 sunny days a year.Hacienda del Alamo Getting there Many flights by charter airlines, scheduled airlines and low-cost carriers go to Murcias San Javier airport and nearby Alicante. Monarch I Hacienda del Alamo(www.monarch.co.uk) serves both, with flights to Alicante from airports including Gatwick and Luton, and flights to Murcia from Gatwick and other desert but both featuring replica holes fromregional airports. Fares start from 46.50 one-way (76.99 return) to some of the 240 Nicklaus Design courses.Alicante and 52.99 (88.50) to Murcia.Polaris World offers extensive self-catering accommodation as well as two five-starGolf packages InterContinental hotels, overlooking the MarTour operators offering Murcia golf packages include Your Golf Travel (0800 Menor and La Torre courses. 043, 6644, www.yourgolftravel.com). La Manga prices start at 295 per person for three nights bed and breakfast at the Hotel La Manga Club Eco-golfPrincipe Felipe, with three rounds of golf, or 229 on the same basis at the Three nine-hole layouts (Stone, Olive and Las Lomas Village apartments or townhouses.Three nights self-catering at Pine) giving three 18-hole combinations are Polaris World with three rounds of golf on the Nicklaus Golf Trail cost on offer at Mosa Trajectum Golf Murcia. from 130 per person. Prices exclude flights. Each nine is different in character. The resort also has a nine-hole, par 3 Challenge Course. Mosa Trajectum claims to be Spains first completely-ecological golf course, with a drainage system which collects all rain and Polaris World Peraleja Golf waste water and diverts it to the resorts own purification plant.I Wildlife abounds at Peraleja I The Nicklaus Trail will have nine courses Of Murcias other courses, Dave Thomas designed Roda Golf Course, part of the De Courses Roda Golf & Beach Resort Vere Hotels-managed Roda Golf and Beach La Manga Club www.rodagolf.com Resort where a hotel opens in 2010, the semi- www.lamangaclub.com private Altorreal set on hills above Murcia city, Hacienda del Alamo and Hacienda del Alamo. Surrounded by cit-Nicklaus Golf Trail www.clubdegolfhda.com rus, olive and almond groves, a second course www.nicklausgolftrail.es is planned there. Altorreal Golf Wildlife is a key feature of Seve Ballesteros-Mosa Trajectum Golf Murciawww.golfaltorreal.es designed Peraleja, which opened in 2007. More www.thekey.es than 60% of the resorts 780-acre area is pro- tected, with resident bird species includingPeraleja Golf Bonelli eagles, red kites and eagle owls. A five- www.peralejagolf.com star hotel and spa opens soon. Peter Ellegard Future openings feature several big-name golf Hotels designers. Among them are: two Greg Norman- Hotel La Manga Club Principe Felipe designed courses at the 3 Molinos Golf Resort;www.lamangaclub.com the Jose Maria Olazabal-designed Corvera Golf & Country Club course opening in 2010, whichHotel Intercontinental Mar Menor Golf Resort will become the winter HQ and overseas base for www.intercontinental.com/marmenor the PGAs of Europe; and Novo Carthago, a resort alongside the Mar Menor featuring tw