The Sweet - Gambero Rosso · 2015-07-01 · million euros of imports, while in 2012, the data show...

The SweetSmell

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CHALLENGINGHArvEST 2014

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vINI d'ITALIA 2015 ComING SooN

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THE LArGEST ITALIAN wINE CELLAr oPENINGIN mEXICo CITY

GrAN PArAdISo,HIGH ALTITudEBrEAd ANd CHEESE

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trebicchierimonthly news for wine professionals

international

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Vini d’Italia 2015

Gambero Rosso

2015

Vinid’Italia

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www.gamberorosso.it

2402 produttori20000 vini423 tre bicchieri

80 tre bicchieri verdi108 tre bicchieri sotto i 15 euro

Vini d’Italia 2015

vini da discreti a buoni nelle loro rispettive categorie

vini da molto buoni a ottimi nelle loro rispettive categorie

vini da molto buoni ad ottimi che hanno raggiunto

le degustazioni finali

vini eccellenti nelle loro rispettive categorie

I vini valutati nelle precedenti edizioni della guida sono

segnalati con i bicchieri bianchi (O, OO, OOO)

Segnala le aziende che hanno conquistato per OGNI STELLA

10 volte i tre bicchieri

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CLASSIFICAZIONE DEI VINI

LA STELLA b

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THE BESTRED WINE OF THE YEAR

barolo villero ris ’07 – viette

WHITE WINE OF THE YEARtrebbiano d’abruzzo v. di capestrano ’12 – valle reale

SPARKLING WINE OF THE YEARbrut cl. nature – monsupello

SWEET WINE OF THE YEARvin santo di carmignano ris ‘07 - capezzana

WINERY OF THE YEAR

tenuta sette ponti

BEST VALUE FOR MONEYcustoza ca’ del magro ’12 – monte del frà

GROWER OF THE YEARgiuseppe gabbas

UP-AND-COMING WINERY

tiare

AWARD FOR SUSTAINABLE VITICULTURE

barone pizzini

EN PRIMEURTRE BICCHIERI

There are 423 “Tre Bicchieri” in This 28Th edition of the guide, compared to 415 in the guide of 2014. The leading regions are once

again Piedmont with an overall score of 79 awards, followed by Tuscany with 72 and far ahead of Veneto with 36. However, quality is more and more widespread in all regions. Amongst the main denominations of origin we indicate 2010 as an excellent vintage for Barolo. In contrast, the Brunello di Montalcino 2009 is a much warmer but less thrilling vintage. Among the whites, Fiano di Avellino 2013 made one the most outstanding appearances. That brings us to the much awaited awards. The Red of the Year is Barolo Villero Riserva 2007 Vietti: a rich wine, with very elegant aromas, a firm and dense structure characterized by silky tannins and balanced freshness. In one word: touching. The White of the Year is Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Vigne di Capestrano ‘12 Valle Reale, with its pure scents of chamomile and citrus blossom and its full and yet crisp flavors when you taste it – incredibly complex for one still so young. The Sparkling Wine of the Year is Brut Classico Nature by Monsupello: a first for L’Oltrepò Pavese. A metodo classico bottle made from pure Pinot Nero grapes, at an unbeatable price for the quality, with a final scent of flowers and star-anise, it is clean, pure and savory, with brilliant acidity that keeps the wine

vini d´Italia 2015coming soon

lively and freshening. The Sweet Wine of the Year: Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva ‘07 Tenuta di Capezzana. It is one of the many fascinating wines of Tuscany, a wine of an extraordinary complexity and elegance, deep, satisfying and very long-lasting. A little gem. Winery of the year: Tenuta Sette Ponti. Again in Tuscany, in Castiglion Fibocchi (AR) to be precise, we found the winery of the year, an icon of dedication to quality viticulture. Best Value for Money goes to Custoza Sup. Ca’ del Magro ‘12 Monte del Frà: a premium wine with a wide range of aromas and a very rounded, taut palate. Grower of the Year goes to Sardinia: Giuseppe Gabbas. A man of few words, he produces wines that have lots to say and which point the way for the production of Sardinian Cannonau. The Emerging Winery of the Year is in Friuli: Tiare di Roberto Snidarcig, a small company that managed to grow in quality within a few years and achieved a very solid reputation with its wines from Collio. Finally, the Award for Sustainable Viticulture goes to Barone Pizzini. It is enough to visit the new and modern wine-making facilities, sustainably built according to the ideas of bio-architecture, and to tour the vineyards, cultivated in a biological and biodynamic way, to understand why this recognition is due.

Vini d’Italia 2015 just went to press. There is no time left for modifying, rethinking or last minute changes. In fact, it is the moment for a first

assessment. Let´s start with some numbers.

The Genuine Abruzzo

Contesa società agricola www.contesa.it Collecorvino (PE)

adream of a cellar. We’re in Polanco, a few feet from the luxury shops of Avenida Presidente Masaryk in Mexico City. Rolly

Pavia, in his Osteria del Becco, wanted a caveau of totally Italian bottles, among the largest and deepest in the world. Last Thursday was the inauguration, in the presence of an impressive array of Italian producers. Let’s go back a step. Rolly left Italy for Mexico at 17 years old, with his father Angelo. The first restaurant Beccofino in La Marina de Ixtapa Zihuateneko was opened twenty years ago, followed by Osteria del Becco in Polanco, the Cantinetta del Becco in the Santa Fe neighborhood and Becco al Mare in Acapulco. The possibilities of growth were encouraging, so Rolly decided to convert the Osteria del Becco in Polanco into the largest trove of Italian wines in the Americas. “Today,” he says, “I have 28,000 bottles cellared and 1,500 labels, but my goal is to reach 3,000. Through Italwines, the company I founded to import directly from Italy, I’ll bring in at least 20 other wineries. We also buy at different auctions 3 or 4 times a year and purchase occasionally here in Mexico from other importers in order to have more depth.” The range is impressive

The largest Italian winecellar in America

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

SPECIAL

Here’s how the relationship between consumer and wine is changing in Mexico. Rolly Pavia explains – he has opened a new wine cellar at Osteria del Becco. But don’t ask for Bordeaux or Burgundy: his heart belongs to Italy

in terms of formats and choice. He carries all the great classics, but also many of the small producers he has visited one by one in Italy. He meticulously studies every vintage year. There are harvests that wrote the history of our wine, and it happens more and more often to find them 10,000 kilometers from their place of production rather than in restaurants in Italy. Take, for example, Brunello Riserva ’83 by Soldera, Sassicaia ’85 and many, many Monfortino vintage years. “Next year,” Rolly reveals, “we have a great plan for the Center/South, and every region will be better represented.”rolly Was among The firsT To Believe in iTalian Wine in Mexico and in 2000 he began to fill his cellar. For a decade, the country has enjoyed sizable economic growth. In 2004, the GDP was at 759.8 billion dollars. In 2013 it reached 1250.9 billion. The growth expected in 2014 is 3% despite contradictions and differences in Central and South American cities. At the same time, internal wine production has increased. Total hectares under vine now are 3,600, with 75% of production concentrated in Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California. Along with cabernet, merlot and tempranillo, we find sangiovese and nebbiolo. “Style is still powerfully influenced by noticeable wood and ripeness. We began just a short time ago, so all our wineries are less than 20 years old. Wine is something relatively new, but taste is evolving little by little,” Rodolfo Gerschman, director of the magazine Catadores, tells us. Mexican gastronomy is also flourishing. The first guides and trade magazines are appearing. The moment resembles events in Italy in the 1980s. Among the new openings in the capital, Mercado Roma, a nightlife neighborhood, attracted a

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SPECIAL

great deal of attention. In one zone, many different sorts of restaurants opened. “Restaurants have become much better. Mexican people love sitting at the table for a long time and adore eating well,” Rolly comments. on The american conTinenTs, there are at least three other great wine cellars; Del Posto in New York, belonging to the Bastianich family, Valentino in Los Angeles, belonging to Piero Selvaggio, and the luxurious Fasano owned by the family of the same name in Sao Paolo. Rolly Pavia made a clear choice by closing his doors to the great Bordeaux and Burgundy bottles. Only Italy, he decided: a solid and ambitious choice. The wine cellar is not a way of showing off, but is part of a continual training process – it’s obvious in the knowledge demonstrated by his employees. On January 31, 2015, Becco at the Four Seasons will open in Mexico City, and two other restaurants with wine shops are planned in the Distrito Federal. in an aTmosPhere like This, WiTh more aTTenTion to things Italian, Gambero Rosso has to be on the scene, and in April will return to Mexico City with 60 top-notch wineries, 12 months after the first visit to this country. “Italian wine must be spoken about, explained and curated. Potential is enormous but I repeat that here in Mexico, Italian wine needs an ambassador, and must be attended to. Otherwise it risks not taking off, which has happened many other times with Italian wineries, and many importers have failed.”

5

among The BoTTles lying in the cellar of the Osteria del

Becco is also a Monfortino ’55. Let’s leave aside historical aspects, at least, we’ll try. The color is a pale but unblemished cherry red.

We note no reduction or olfactory uncertainty. The nose is amazing,

immediately inviting, with tones of anise, licorice and undergrowth. It settles,

then changes. More intense tones of rhubarb, orange peel and black tea appear. Flavor has amazing naturalness: it is precise, subtle and enchanting. Tannin is creamy and still present. Acidity is high. Agile and fine, the palate shows no uncertanty but great flavor and character. Balance is suffused. Everything seems amazingly simple and in its place. It’s hard to know when the finish concludes. It doesn’t close. It is eternal.

“TaxaTion is very high, aT 40%, BuT if you import directly, the consumer will find the price more attractive. Mexican customs

officials are very precise and check very carefully. This makes everything more complicated,” Rolly Pavia says. Consumption per capita is still very low, about 650 ml per year. Experts estimate a constant annual growth of 13% over the next year. Spain and Chile represent half the market, Italy is third, and France follows. The latest numbers confirm the positive trend. In the first semester of 2014, imports of Italian wine reached 10.3 million euros, compared to 7.4 during the same period in 2013. To conclude, 2013 saw 19.5 million euros of imports, while in 2012, the data show 17.3 million.

Once, In 1955

Market suMMary

The city of Brindisi will host the 3rd edition of Apulia Wine Identi-ty, scheduled from 1 to 5 October 2014. The event is dedicated to Negroamaro and Primitivo, historic vines of the region, and to the knowledge and enhancement of the denomination wines of Puglia. An international jury will be called to give the 2013 vinta-ge en primeur a rating.

Apulia Wine Identity is promoted by Consorzio Puglia Best Wine and the Department of Agricultural and Food Resources of the Puglia region.

www.pugliabestwine.it

ApuliA Wine identity 2014 PUGLIA WINE OPENS TO THE WORLD

UNIONE EUROPEAFondo Europeo Agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: L’Europa investe nelle zone rurali

Repubblica ItalianaMinistero delle Politiche Agricole

Alimentari e Forestali

REGIONE PUGLIAArea Politiche per lo Sviluppo Rurale

Servizio Agricoltura

PSR 2007-2013Programma di Sviluppo Rurale

della Puglia 2007-2013

ASSE 1 - Avviso per la selezione di progetti integrati di filiera (Burp n. 162/09 e n° 102/10)PROGETTO COFINANZIATO PIF “BEST WINE”Misura 133 “Attività di informazione e promozione”

pagina-210x297-EN.indd 1 26/08/14 13.54

7

gran Paradiso is The only enTirely iTalian 4,000 meter mountain. The entire surrounding territory, thanks also to a long

history of environmental protection, is home to a series of small food producers with well-preserved ancient traditions and know-how. Cheese, honey, wine, sweets, bread and genepy are only a few of the excellent products that won the Marchio Q, the brand of Qualità Gran Paradiso created by the Park authorities.a feW hisTorical noTes helP To undersTand The uniqueness of this territory. The park was founded in 1922, but already by 1856, King Vittorio Emanuele II had created a royal hunting reserve to impede the indiscriminate extermination of the ibex, the iconic animal of these mountains. The number of animals had slid to a few hundred and risked extinction. Today there are about 4,000 and the group is in good health, to the joy of hikers looking for images to immortalize. The king was a great hunter, but also very lazy. He

by Dario Bragaglia

Ninety years old, but not showing its age, the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso is the oldest protected area in Italy. A mountain zone divided between Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta that soars above 4,000 meters, it also deserves to be well-known from the culinary point of view

liked to aim at his prey from fixed and comfortable positions. He had royal hunting houses built and a series of roads and paths suitable for horses so he could arrive easily at high altitudes. Today these paths (about 300 kilometers of them) are the most important ways to reach internal zones of the park. oTher Park sTaTisTics helP clarify Why in an environment with these characteristics, food production is necessarily limited and precious. On a surface of 70,318 hectares, 62% is ice, rock or moraine; 20.2% is covered by forest and 17% by meadows and pastures. Only 8% of the territory is inhabited and cultivated. The area, no matter how extraordinary an environment it is, is still harsh and difficult for human life. cogne, anoTher one of The alPine Pearls, is The tourism capital of the Gran Paradiso in terms of its hospitality – restaurants and hotels. It is the right place to look for fontina d’alpeggio cheese, which is produced in summer months when the cows are in high altitude pastures eating grasses and aromatic flowers. Fontina is part of one of Cogne’s traditional dishes, seupetta, made with rice, bread crusts, and, of course, the valley’s famous cheese. Among local desserts is

High AltitudeBread and cheese

EN PRIMEURTRAVEL

8

mécoulin, a kind of bread made with raisins, lemon zest, and rum. Another is la crema di Cogne – whipped cream, sugar and chocolate – often served with the classic Valle d’Aosta cookie (flour, egg white, hazelnuts and almonds) called tegola, or tile. After baking, these biscotti are left to cool on a rolling pin, which gives them their charming curved shape. fonTina is also The chief ingredienT in anoTher specialty, favò, which can be found in a few Cogne eating places, such as the Bar à Fromage in the Hotel Bellevue. Made with fava beans, fontina cheese, black bread toasted in butter, sausage, pancetta and pasta, this dish originates in Ozein where they hold a food festival, a sagra, to honor it in the next to last week of July. It is one of the many peasant dishes of the mountain tradition that goes well with the area’s red wine, Torrette. The atmosphere in Cogne towards the end of September, on the occasion of the Devétéya, in unforgettable. This festival greets the herds of cows that come down from the high altitude pastures at the end of the summer season. The flower bedecked animals, with their bells around their necks, walk through town; the streets are lined with stalls offering typical products and the restaurants offer special menus, “Les Saveurs de l’Alpage” featuring traditional dishes to enjoy on the last sunny days of good weather.

This must be one of the most spectacular vineyard landscapes in the Alps.The clos de l’enfer, in The arvier zone, has earned its name, the inferno, because of the high temperatures that develop in this natural basin exposed to strong and constant sun, favored also by the sloping terraces. At 800 meters above sea level, with a southern exposure, the grapes, mostly petit rouge (an indigenous variety) mature perfectly here. co-enfer, a cooPeraTive ThaT includes about 100 members, was established in 1978 and contributed dramatically to spotlighting Enfer d’Arvier (2 bicchieri), a wine that obtained DOC status in 1972. “We don’t only buy the members’ grapes, but we follow the entire cycle of viticulture activity, starting in the vineyard,” explains agronomist Fabrizio Prosperi. He coordinates the activity of the small cooperative together with wine technician Chul-Kyu Peloso. We’re talking about a niche product: Valle d’Aosta produces about 5,000 bottles of Enfer d’Arvier Clos annually. The rest of the denomination reaches 20,000. “We changed to organic growing and in 2015 we will have certification. We want the land and the vineyards to express, naturally, all their typicity,” says Prosperi, who also mentions new products such as Rosé (from pinot noir grapes) and Pinot Gris Soleil Couchant, the only white wine made here.

Grapes. vineyards among the clouds

TRAVEL

We’re aT War, a War declared on merchanTs, producers and restaurateurs by a small group of very determined and aware

people. Not a war on all, naturally, but certainly on those businesses who constantly, daily, try to cheat the consumer.

We’ve alWays Been fighTing This War, To Tell The truth, even if undeclared, every morning in shops, at the market and then in restaurants. It’s all about ambush, flight, counterattack and vendetta. once uPon a Time iT Was a BaTTle among The Poor, cheating on weight. Today, in an opulent society, it’s based on cheating on quality, not respecting health laws, taking advantage of the client’s ignorance to increase prices by 300 percent. Here we’re thinking about wine in many restaurants.

iT’s War WiTh The Producers, and once again, noT with all of them, but with those that use products that in the long run will harm the consumer.here’s one examPle ThaT Tells iT all: The massive use of pesticides in agriculture dries the land and leaves residues in the food chain.

SPECIAL

Deeply saddened by the death of Stefano Bonilli, founder of Gambero Rosso, we honor him by re-publishing the editorial with which he presented Gambero Rosso. It was December 16, 1986, and Gambero Rosso made its appearance as a monthly supplement in the Italian daily newspaper, Manifesto.

The army ThaT officially WanTs To fighT This War is a small but cohesive one. The newborn Arci Gola has 22,000 members and there are also the readers of manifesto. This group, although apparently limited in numbers, has an enormous potential for changing the food and wine sector.The goal is noT To form jusT anoTher consumers’ group, something that has had little success in an Italy divided among competing, jealous, political and personal factions, but to give voice to the problems that consumers find at every turn.We, readers of manifesTo, memBers of arci gola, can form a pressure group able to make its mark, to penalize whoever tries to cheat the consumer and to reward those who work well, be they large or small.The Process is simPle. jusT don’T Buy (and don’T let others buy) particular products. It’s enough to create a vacuum around a place hunting for tourists to exploit. (When we travel, we all become a little naïve and a little like tourists ready to be taken.)iT’s enough To move ToWards Those Who sell quality, which doesn’t always coincide with the highest price. hoW can We find our Way?

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GoodbyeBonilli

11NEWS

Challenging harvest 2014. Hopes for a rise in prices

Wine Prices are slightly up. After the third week of August,

the first trades showed an increase in prices, after a year of almost constant downward movement, due to expectations of diminished production during the current harvest. Early estimates for the 2014 harvest from Assoenologi (-13,5% average nationally, between 41 and 42 million hectoliters, compared to 48.2 in 2013 and well under the five-year average of 44.9 million hectoliters) confirmed the impressions from June and July about lower quantities available

year, different variables will be determinant: supplies in cellars, competition with products from Spain, which, after a record 2013, is predicting a much poorer harvest, and possible effects of international crises (Russia/Ukraine).The siTuaTion in iTaly is mixed. “It is a complicated year which ended with prices too low, and for which we don’t understand yet how much wine will actually be available,” points out Ruenza Santandrea, president of Gruppo Cevico (a Faenza cooperative that handles 1.3 million quintals of grapes, largely destined for IGPs and table wine, from 5,000 growers and with sales of 150 million euros). “Even without certain data, for which we have to wait a month, the basic idea is that there will be less wine and that prices will be higher. It’s true that the wine market is changeable, but trade has never before been at such a standstill.We are caughT BeTWeen uncertainties about production, shrinking consumption and foreign crises. Clearly if prices go up, all along the line everyone will have to review their price lists. We try to guarantee our members the right remuneration, without making the consumer feel it too much.”

on the market, encouraging producers and buyers to prudence. More definitive figures from UIV and ISMEA will be released soon in Montalcino. The dynamics of trade at the source and wholesale in recent days have shown the first upward movement. For basic wines, according to ISMEA and samplings on Italian markets, prices are certainly below the levels of a year ago (-38% for whites and -25% for reds), but are feeling the first effects of the decrease in production. The market has not taken off yet. Between now and the end of the

Markets at a standstill: producers and buyers are biding their time. Expectations of diminished supply

in 2014 are raising prices, above all for basic wines and IGPs (PGIs). What can the consumer expect?

by Gianluca Atzeni

-38% for whites

-25% for reds

trebicchieri2015

Friday, October 31, 2014Ritz Carlton Hotel

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Monday, November 3, 2014Fairmont Peace Hotel

Shanghai

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Wednesday, November 5, 2014Harbour Grand Hong Kong

Hong Kong

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2014OCTOBER

25 octoberROMEtrebicchieri

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DECEMBER

2 decemberISTANBULRoadshow

2015JANUARY

12 januarySTOCKHOLMVini d’Italia

14 januaryCOPENHAGENVini d’Italia

15 januaryOSLOVini d’Italia

januaryMUNICHVini d’Italia

FEBRUARY

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5 februaryNEW YORKtrebicchieri

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19 februaryLONDONVini d’Italia

MARCH

2 marchSYDNEYtrebicchieri

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APRIL

21 aprilHOUSTONRoadshow

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2014/2015worldtour

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION: [email protected]

Vini d’Italia2014/2015tourtrebicchieri

14ESTERI

wine buy of the month

SANNIo FoIS FALANGHINA 2013

Cautiero 4,000 bottles

Ex-cellar price 4.5 euroswww.cautiero.it

Fulvio and Imma Cauterio’s winery is the up-and-

coming firm in the Sannio Beneventano zone. Founded

in 2002, its grapes come from four hectares of

organi vineyards that grow falanghina, fiano and greco

white grapes along with aglianico and piedirosso for

reds. This is the western part of the Sannio, on the border

of the Parco del Taburno, with its luxuriant vegetations, continental climate and

clayey soil rich in potassium. This month’s wine is the

excellent Sannio Falanghina Fois ’13, without doubt one

of the best of its type, a wine capable of making

even the greatest skeptics re-think falanghina. It

has an elegant and easy progression, a harmonious

olfactory profile with luminous tones of

chamomile and green tea. On the palate, it is rich

in fruit and iodine tones, offering a relaxed, precise,

refreshing mouthful.

La Locanda del Borgodel Resort AquapetraTelese TermeAverage price: 55 euroswww.aquapetra.com

A fascinating inn deep in the woods of the Sannio Beneventano, Locanda del Borgo again proves itself to be one of the most interesting eating places in the Campania countryside. The dining room is ruled in an impeccable manner by Ciro Sannino, a truly talented host. Luciano Villani’s cooking, better than ever, is centered on the territory. Exceptional, flavorful risotto, this time is made with peas, crisp Pelatello pancetta, and a concentrate of apples, honey and vinegar. Gnocchetti with borage and onions is delicate and intense at the same time. Among the main dishes,

suckling pig cooked at low temperature is perfection. Desserts, such as millefoglie or ricotta cream with coffee ice cream, are praiseworthy. The wine list is better every year, and always priced affordably.

twitter dixit

The Wine Wankers @winewankersA fun collection of wine chalkboards

Chef Central Inc.@chefcentral Drinking red wine is beneficial to your body as hitting the gym, says science: Latin Times...

Molly Bee@msmollybee25Funny how 8 glasses of water a day seems impossible, but 8 glasses of wine seems so easy

Etienne@monsieurETGerard Depardieu says he can drink 12-14 bottles of wine a day...As a Russian now he needs to move to Vodka...

editorLorenzo Ruggeri [email protected]

cover photoConsorzio Marchio Storico dei Lambruschi Modenesi

ADV Director Franco Dammicco [email protected]

DealerPoster Pubblicità[email protected]

Gambero rosso Holding spa Via Enrico Fermi 161 00146 Rome (Italy)

NEWS&TRENDS

reStAurAnt of the month

september 2014

http://thewinewankers.com.au/2014/09/16/a-fun-collection-of-wine-chalkboards/

http://thewinewankers.com.au/2014/09/16/a-fun-collection-of-wine-chalkboards/

http://www.latintimes.com/drinking-wine-better-going-gym-according-scientists-yes-261496





https://twitter.com/msmollybee25/status/512754728032161793?refsrc=email





http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2014/09/19/gerard-depardieu-says-can-drink-dozens-bottles-wine-each-day/




The Sweet - Gambero Rosso · 2015-07-01 · million euros of imports, while in 2012, the data show...

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Transcript of The Sweet - Gambero Rosso · 2015-07-01 · million euros of imports, while in 2012, the data show...