The Sewing Dictionary

AAppliqué Sewing a piece of fabric atop after folding under a small bit of the

fabric to create a clean edge. When done by machine, many use a satin stitch (tight zig zag). By hand, blind stitching is often used.

BBackstitch Used at the beginning and end of a machine sewn seam to anchor the

seam in place; it involves a couple of extra stitches back and forth. Ballpoint needle Ballpoint needles are designed to penetrate knit fabrics without

nicking or damaging the fabric.Bar tack A group of closely sewn stitches (back and forth from side to side al a

zigzag) that is used to tack a belt loop or similar item in place. This is not a basting stitch

Baste/basting Temporary stitching used to hold a sewing project in place and is removed when the permanent sewing is done.

BattingCotton, wool fibrefill or other fluffy material that is used for filling vests, quilts and placemats. During manufacture the filling is flattened and attached to a roll to be purchased in lengths (just like fabric.)

Bias A diagonal line that runs across the fabric. This is the stretchiest area of the fabric

Bias tape Strips of fabric that are cut on the bias, turned under, pressed, and used where stretch is needed or accommodation to curves.

Binding (blanket, quilt, seam, etc)

A method used to neaten a raw edge of material using a separate length of fabric. This is commonly done in the manufacture of blankets and quilts. The term not only refers to the method itself but can also refer to the piece of fabric that is used to encase the raw edged material

Blade The round, razor sharp portion of a rotary cutter. Also, the cutter used on a serger.

Blanket stitchA type of stitch that is used to neaten the edge of a blanket, buttonhole or vest edge. This stitch can be done by hand or by machine.

Blind Hem StitchA stitch that picks up one thread of the fabric at a time (before creating a machine stitch) instead of going through several threads. If done successfully the stitching is almost invisible from the right side of the fabric, a very handy tool for producing neat hems. Most modern sewing machines have a blind hem attachment.

Bobbin This is the section of your sewing machine that holds the bottom thread, otherwise known as the bobbin thread, before being placed in the bobbin case (usually located underneath where the needle penetrates the fabric). The bobbin thread then loops in with the

needle thread forming a locked stitch.Bodkin

This tool is used to insert cording or elastic through casing.Bolt

A large tubular roll of fabric whereby the fabric itself is usually folded right sides together running lengthways.

BuckramStrong jute or cotton fabric used for stiffening items such as the brims of baseball caps or also used in some drapery projects. It is sometimes impregnated with glue.

Butting Butting is the method used to bring two edges together so that they touch but do not overlap each other.

ButtonholeA slit made in the fabric to allow a button to pass through in order to close a garment. The slit is bound using a special buttonhole stitch to stop the fabric from fraying.

CCasing

A type of fabric channel formed for the purpose of holding waistband elastic or drawstrings in place on slacks or sweatpants. The same method can also be used in furnishings such as a channel being created to hold either a curtain rod or a length of dowelling.

ChalkChalk is used to mark fabric to show the location of darts, buttonholes, pleats, and other construction lines.

Clean finish (or finish) This term is used to describe finishing off a seam with zig-zag stitch,

turning the seam under and pressing it.Clip (Curve)

Clipping curves is done in order for a rounded corner to lay flat and not bunch up when a garment is completed. Outside curves need to be cut very close to the seam whereas inside curves can have small v-shaped notches cut out as an alternative to clipping. You do not need to bother with this method of clipping curves if you use a serger to finish off your seams.

Cording A twisted or woven ‘rope’ or ‘string’ that is used primarily in piping and to act as a drawstring in a jacket hood, waistband or as a stabilizer for frog closures. Cording is covered with bias strips of fabric when used for most decorative applications (such as edging a pillow). Other decorative effects can be achieved by zigzagging over cording on a fabric on a raised design.

Covered button This is the technique of using buttons that have been covered with contrasting (or the same) fabric that is being used for the rest of the

garment. You can buy kits to help you with this effect.Cutting line

This is the outermost dark line found on a paper pattern. You can either cut directly on the line or just outside of it but always remain consistent with your cutting method.

DDart

Darts are V-shaped adjustments to a pattern that allow for extra fullness in a garment (for example in the bust area of a top) or alternatively for less fullness (for eg in the waist or back area).

Duct Tape Double (DTD) A "body double" that is made by thickly wrapping your body tightly

with duct tape (with a slim fitting top on underneath), making sure it conforms exactly to your shape. Carefully cut the whole form off your body and stuff with scrap fabric to keep the shape of your body. This is then used to assist with the fitting and adjustment of a garment or paper pattern.

EEase

A sewing technique used when you are attempting to make one piece of fabric fit onto another by pulling in the extra fabric, whilst avoiding puckering or gathering. This technique allows for a proper fit and better movement in a garment.

Edgestitch A stitch applied just 1/8" from the seamed or folded edgeEmbellish

A technique whereby you add decorative stitching, appliques or other decorations to your project. The end result is only limited by your creativity.

Entredeux This french word describes the method used to join two lightweight fabrics with a piece of delicate, decorative lace. You can also use this method to join together ribbons with lace instead of fabric.

FFacing

A fabric piece which is sewn into the cuffs, collar, front opening, or arms eye of a hem to give a finished effect.

Fat quarter fat quarter is 1/4 yard of fabric around 18" x 22" whereas a regular 1/4 yard is 9" x 45". This allows for colorful, quick, stash building often used for vests and smaller garments

Feed dog These are the teeth under the sewing machine plate that help move the fabric as it is being sewn.

Finger press/ing The action of using your hands to open a seam and rubbing/pressing the seam open with your fingers. Commonly used on small areas of a garment.

Finish (an edge)Turn under 1/4" of fabric and stitch, or serge the edge. Doing either of these finishes will stop the fabric from ravelling.

Flat felled seamCreated by sewing the wrong sides of a fabric together, trimming one seam allowance very close to the seam, and then the other seam is turned under and stitched over the other seam allowance. This reduces bulk in a seam. Often used in the making of jeans.

Fold line This is the fold of a fabric (off the bolt) that you lay a pattern piece up against in order to avoid a seam running down the centre of your garment.

Fusible (webbing, interfacing, etc)

Has the characteristic of being able to be ironed one, usually permanently, with or without reinforcement by stitching, due to a heat-activated ‘glue’ on one side.

GGather

Gathering enables a longer piece of fabric to be sewn onto a shorter piece of fabric. It is also a method used to ease a seam, allowing the insertion of sleeves and other rounded pieces of a pattern. It creates fullness by pulling fabric together.

Grading (seams)This is the action of trimming raw edges of a fabric (in graduating widths) to reduce the bulk of a curved edge. eg a facing seam allowance would be trimmed shorter on the facing part of the allowance and longer on the body seam allowance.

Grain The direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage.

HHem

The area of fabric that is turned up and stitched on the lower section of a garment, allowing a clean finished edge. Hemming can be performed to shorten pants that are too long or alternatively the hem can be lowered to allow more room for growth in childrens clothing.

Hong Kong Finish Where bias binding has been enclosed within a seamHook and eye closure This is a method employed to "close" sections of fabric using a metal

hook on one side and a loop on the other. This is often seen in the construction of lingerie and also at the upper rear of some dresses and blouses.

IInseam

The seam that runs along the inside leg of pants, from the crotch to the hem.

Interfacing This fabric is inserted between layers of the garment to give stability

and form to collars, cuffs, and some waistbands. It can be sewn in, or alternatively, it can be fusible (iron-on adhesive).

IronAn iron is an essential part of your sewing kit. It is used to press and straighten fabric with or without the use of steam.

Ironing Ironing is the action of moving an iron back and forth over a garment to smooth out the wrinkles and creases. Also see "Pressing" which is the more common term used in the construction of a garment.

JJean jumper

A jean jumper is used to hold the presser foot up a little to make sewing seams on denim (or any other thick material) a little easier.

KKick pleats

Similar to box pleats, except the pleats are further apart as the folds do not butt together at the back.

LLining

A lining is used on the inside of a garment (for eg jackets and coats) to hide the inside construction and seams, and also to give a decorative effect. Usually lining is made of a silky type fabric to make the garment easier to put on.

MMachine embroidery Machine embroidery is a decorative type of stitching that can be

created using a normal sewing machine or more effectively by using a special machine dedicated to embroidering.

Miter A method of folding the excess seam allowance to gain a sharper and less bulky corner. Often used for quilt corners, vests, jackets and occassionally on collars.

MuslinA cloth used for making sheets. It has a thread count under 180 threads per inch. More loosely woven and coarser than percale. It is generally inexpensive and therefore often used to make trial garments before a more expensive fabric is used.

NNap

A one-way textural direction of a fabric, such as velvet or corduroy. When using these types of "fuzzy" fabrics with a nap all pieces must be cut with the nap running in the same direction.

Needle The two most common types of sewing machine needles are ball point and sharps. The ball point needle is usually used for knits, and

basic sharp points are normally used for non-stretch, woven fabrics. There are many other types of sewing machine needles such as all purpose, wedge-point, perfect stitch, jean, wing and also twin and triple needles. See individual definitions for more information on each needle type.

Notch This small cut in the seam allowance allows fabric to bend at corners and curves. On a paper pattern it is shown as a dark coloured diamond.

Notion Notions are items (apart from a sewing machine and fabric) that are used for sewing. Also called findings and sundries.

OOverlock

Another word used for serging. This is an overcast stitch that is used to prevent the fabric from ravelling. You can buy an overlock machine that will cut and overlock in one step.

Overcasting / overstitching This form of stitching is done to prevent a seam from ravelling.PPattern weights

These weights are used on paper patterns to hold the pattern down to the fabric. These are used instead of pinning the pattern to the fabric.

Pile This word is used to describe the nap of the fabric. Corduroy and velvet are examples of fabric in which the pile needs to be laid in the natural direction when being cut for a pattern. The fabric appears a different colour when brushed in one direction.

Pinking shears These are a type of shear with a "vvvvv" shape along the cutting edge. Using these shears instead of normal straight edged fabric shears will lessen the fabric ravelling. They can also be used for a decorative effect.

Pins Pins are used for holding paper patterns to fabric whilst you are cutting the fabric, and also to hold fabrics together whilst being stitched. Safety pins can be used to baste quilt layers together before the the final quilting. Make sure you use good quality sharp pins to avoid large holes being left in your fabric.

Pintuck Pintucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn rows of fabric that give a raised look to a garment.

Piping This is the method whereby woven or twisted rope is inserted to act as a drawstring in hooded jackets, waistbands etc.

Pivot Pivoting is the action of leaving the sewing machine needle in the fabric, raising the presserfoot, turning the fabric on a 45 degree angle, lowering the presserfoot and continuing to sew. This ensures the fabric stays put when you turn corners.

Placket A v-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve. Before the cuff is attached it is finished with a bias strip.

Pleat A fabric fold that is only sewn at the top edge on a garment such as a skirt or slacks. The fold is formed outwards or inverted.

Press Pressing is different to ironing. Pressing is the action of using a hot iron in a press/pick up/move/press/pick up/move action. Do not use a back and forth motion as you would when you "iron". Pressing is usually done in the creation of a garment.

Presser foot The presser foot is the part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric as it is being fed through the feed dogs. You can buy various types of presser feet to do specialized tasks such as buttonholing, zig zagging, cording, zipper insertion and blind hemming.

Prick stitch Prick stitching is used on fabrics such as velvet.

Q, RRavel/ravelling

Ravelling can be performed intentionally to give the edge of the fabric a frayed/fringed appearance. Sew a tight seam any distance from the raw edge and pull the outside threads away. Unintentional ravelling of raw edges can be avoided by finishing the raw edge with appropriate stitching to keep threads intact.

Raw (edge) The raw edge is the edge of the fabric that is not finished or stitched.

Right side The right side of the fabric is the side with the pattern or design.

Rotary cutter Rotary cutters are rounded razor blades attached to a handle (a little like pizza cutters!) They are used to cut layers of fabric into strips, but can also be useful for cutting curved lines and for cutting out garment patterns. For a decorative effect you can also buy pinked edge cutters.

Running stitch A running stitch is often used for basting, by running the thread over and under the fabric. It can also be used as the basis for a more decorative stitch.

SSatin stitch

This zig-zag stitch is applied with a shortened stitch length so that the stitches look horizontal to each other.

Seam A method of stitching two pieces of fabric together.

Seam allowance The amount of extra fabric added to allow for a seam. This is the area between the cut edge and the seam stitching.

Selvedge, selvege, selvage The woven outside edge of fabric which is unable to fray. This can

have colour matching dots or manufacturer information printed on it. (Some references note the spelling as selvage or selvege.)

Separating zipper This is a type of zipper that separates entirely. These are often found on jackets and sweaters. There is a metal or plastic tab at the bottom of the zipper for bringing both sides together and starting the zip.

SergerAlso called an overlocker. This is a form of sewing machine that cuts off excess fabric and finishes the seam allowance in one motion. Most manufactured knit fabric garments have been edged with a serger.

Shank button A shank button is one that has space left between it and the fabric. They have a raised area on the back of the button which is used to sew it onto the fabric. A heavyweight jacket would require a deeper shanked button than a lighter weight jacket for instance. You can turn a normal button into a shanked button by wrapping thread under the button to create a shank.

Sizing A light starch finish that provides crispness to a fabric without feeling stiff.

Snips Snips are very small cutting tools, very much like scissors, but are only used for cutting threads.

Spool Basically, a spool holds thread. They can be made of plastic, wood, cardboard tubing, etc.

Stash A collection of fabric.

Stay stitch This stitching is applied about 1/8" inside the permanent line of stitching on a curved edge in order to keep it from distorting. Refer to the pattern to establish the direction of the stitching.

Stitch in the ditch This is a type of under-stitching. To perform successfully, press the seam allowances to one side and top stitch as close as possible to the

seam. This will hold the seam allowance down and keep the piece of fabric folded under.

Stitch length The length of the stitch depends on the work you are doing, but in general 11-12 stitches are applied per inch. If you are gathering or basting then there is usually 6 stitches applied per inch. You will rarely ever need to have more than 12 stitches applied per inch.

Straight stitch This is stitching made up of single forward stitches. Most sewing machines use this as the standard.

TTack

Tacking is applying temporary stitching to hold material pieces together until the final stitching is completed.

Tailors tack Using two threads through a needle, draw the needle through all fabric layers (and paper pattern), and snipping off the thread, but leaving a "tail" of thread at the top and bottom of the fabric as a way of marking the piece. Use a contrasting colour thread for easy identification. You can use this method to mark darts, buttonholes etc.

Tension The term tension is used in two areas of your sewing machine. The first being the bobbin tension (which doesn't usually need to be adjusted). The second being the thread tension. You should carefully refer to your machines instruction manual with regards to both tensions.

Thread Thread is the basis for sewing material together. It is usually the same (or complimentary) colour as your fabric. This thread should be used on both the spool as well as in the bobbin of your machine to avoid problems such as bunching and knotting from occurring.

Top stitch This is a row of stitching which is visible on the completed product. This stitching can be decorative or purely functional. It is usually applied about 1/4" from the edge of a seam.

Tracing paper Tracing paper is used with a tracing wheel to mark your fabric with the ink-like substance that is on one side of the paper.

Tracing wheel A tracing wheel is used in conjunction with tracing paper. Laying the ink-side of the tracing paper down on the fabric, roll the wheel across the paper where you want the fabric to be marked. Do not press too hard with the tracing wheel as you may cut through the paper or fabric.

TrimTrim can have two meanings. The first being the act of removing excess fabric or thread etc with scissors. The second meaning of trim is a decorative accessory added to a garment or item e.g. lace, ribbon etc.

Tuck See Pintucks. Tucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn rows of fabric that give a raised look to a garment.

UUnderlining

This is a lining that is used to add body to a garment.Understitiching

This form of stitching is applied as close to the seam line as possible to enable a piece of fabric to stay folded under. See "Stitch in the Ditch."

Universal needle This sewing machine needle is used for knitted or woven fabrics. The needle has a slightly rounded tip.

VView

This term is used to describe the variations that are shown on most paper patterns. Each variation is referred to as a "view".

W Warp

The threads that run down the length of a woven fabric. They can also be called the lengthwise grain.

Wearable art Decorative, usually quilted clothing made to be unique, beautiful and functional.

WeftThe threads that run across a woven fabric from selvedge to selvedge. They run perpendicular to the warp. Also referred to as the cross grain.

Welt A strip of fabric that is sewn between the two sides of a cushion to allow it more depth.

Whipstitch A simple running stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together. Good for closing seams of leather, crochet/knit item, or the opening of a pillow that has been stuffed.

Wing needle This sewing machine needle has flared, wing-shaped sides that are used to make holes in tight woven fabrics.

Wrong side The wrong side of a fabric is the one where there is no design or pattern.

X, Y, Z

Zigzag Zig zag is a type of stitch that goes sideways one direction, and then the other. It can be used to prevent a seam from ravelling. It can also be used decoratively.